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Land Rover LR3

1676870727388

Comments

  • jackmacjackmac Member Posts: 26
    It sounds like there is a stone or some other object in the tread of your L/F tire. I've had the same experience.
  • pbroverpbrover Member Posts: 43
    Grommet,

    Has Land Rover come out with a technical bulletion or offical position on the uneven tire wear yet? I took my LR3 in for 7,500 oil change/service and pointed out the strange wear on all both sides of tires on all four tires. ...."I got the blank stares dumb customer looks", "must be your not keeping your tires inflated" and "no such thing as rear camber adjustments". I was not prepared to battle that day but I will next time.
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    Sorry, no TSB that I know of. There is adjustment available, and they should have workshop manuals that show them how to do it. I, thankfully, haven't had any odd tire wear... main tires are still original.
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    So, my early build LR3 HSE finally has been hit with numerous Suspension Failures in the last 2 days. Nothing that prevented the vehicle's use, however. (Along with the amber warning icon... it just prevented use of the height adjustment.) 99% chance it's all related to a failing air compressor, which has been sounding a bit odd in the last month or so. Until the last two days, I had only seen the error twice -- once for no reason after starting, and once doing evil things off-road. (It's the original air compressor, which some people had big issues with.)

    :sick:

    The air compressor is being replaced right now. Thankfully, the service department wasn't too busy. :)
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Let me know if the air suspension feels any quicker with the updated compressor.
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    My LR3 had a new air compressor installed today, along with the appropriate ECU update needed for the revised design. The new compressor seems to be less loud and it might be faster at filling the air tank. Of course, I'm probably comparing it to what my failing compessor did at the end of it's life. It might be placebo, but the suspension does feel slightly quicker when adjusting...?!

    They also applied a recall repair, a "Transfer Case Control Module" download.

    All is good so far. :shades: Let's hope my 2nd compressor lives a long life...
  • adaraadara Member Posts: 5
    I checked the exhaust pipes, at their lowest point they are indeed just a little lower than the chassis, maybe 1/2 inch or less.
    If you want any details upon the adjustment procedure feel free to ask, I assisted to the whole deal myself.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    It is definately not leaning to the back. The height from the floor to the wheel well arch is 84 mm at all 4 corners. This was a measurement either you mentioned or I saw it elsewhere on another forum.

    I just think that if the minimum ground clearance spec is 9.5 inches in off-road mode that the entire under carriage should be able to clear a 9.49 inch high obstacle. As it is, my exhaust pipes would hit if the obstacle was about 8.5 inches high and yours would hit at about 9 inches or so.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    adara
    we were censored - evidently the host didn't like my choice of words and suggested another

    Thanks for checking. I believe my chassis is at the right height and doesn't need adjusting but thanks for the offer of the procedure. If it isn't too involved, maybe you could post it for future reference for everyone.

    My exhaust pipes are a good inch lower than the chassis. I don't know how LR can quote a minimum ground clearance spec then have things lower than that. Maybe the exhaust pipe can be adjusted - I need to crawl under and look more closely at the front end of the pipes. There appears to be room for them to be adjusted up if there is a way.

    Yesterday, after parking in the garage for 10 minutes or so, my truck belched, and the front end lowered about 1/2 inch. I've heard it do this before, but never watched it drop. Maybe it is just relieving excess pressure. Do they all do this?
  • adaraadara Member Posts: 5
    My car almost always lowers when it makes the "noise". Several users reported this so it's not a fault.
    Are you sure the specified ground clearance is not the one from the pipes down?
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I'm sure. I made a stiff cardboard gauge, like a rectangle with one corner cut off at an angle. Like this:
    __
    /...!
    /....!
    /.....!
    /......!
    /____! then rotate it 90 degrees so the ! side is on the floor. Then I marked it along the dotted line with the height so I could slide it under and see where the slope touched the low point. Hard to draw on here.

    Glad that other's make that noise too. As long as it's normal I'm happy.
  • sweingastsweingast Member Posts: 28
    I am looking at a LR3 HSE with 7 seats and NAV about 55k MSRP down to 50k even plus 2k for the 5yr/100000 mi warranty. The other vehicle is a XC 90 also with 7 seats and NAV.

    The Volvo is about 20 percent less, gets 20 percent better mileage and has a better repair history. I do a lot of dirt road and field driving which either vehicle should be able to handle. It is now being done by a Subaru Outback, which refuses to die after 225k miles.

    The logical side of me says save the money in purchase and gas. The emotional side says the LR3 would be more fun … after driving a Subaru for 225k miles. Is the purchase of a LR3 an emotional thing or can you give me some “logical” support. :blush:

    Thanks.
  • kandgkandg Member Posts: 53
    Car choices and purchases are rarely led by "rational" or "logical" decision making and the manufacturers know this. When we purchased our LR3 it was due to the no compromise utility of the rover, but was highly coupled with it's translation from the designer's concept to it's actualization in the "flesh".(emotional)

    The disappointment with many new cars is often, the concept, when introduced, promises so much but fails to deliver in the final product. This is likely why some nostalgia based products are so successful.(mustang, upcoming camaro etc) when executed properly. People that buy these products know the heritage behind the marque is as sacred to the manufacturer as to the consumer (manufacturers having learned from past mistakes, that 74 mustang hatch thing for eg)

    Back on topic, the real question is, what does YOUR automobile mean to you alone (and not your neighbor's perception or some other form of validation) Is it a; conveyance, an appliance, a lifestyle, a toy, nirvana/zen or an emotional escape/shelter. i.e. what is it's purpose to you.

    I'm happy with our purchase but it is not something i drive everyday. I rarely have more than one other person to transport, tow something everyday, or take a path that necessitates rubicon crossing ability. For that i use a different car. If fuel economy is a significant concern, this is not the vehicle for you. There is no vehicle on the market today that is completely 100% trouble free. (that volvo xc90 v8 with seriously boosted steering, is running on the older, yamaha engineered taurus sho engine...not the paradigm of reliability.)

    I would humbly suggest, keeping the suburu and properly maintaining it (if you care about the environs, why throw away a perfectly good car..) and purchase your LR3 for when those expedition-wanderlust moods strike that require more than your Outback is capable of.

    btw..opinion..$52K is still a bit much. I was able to get my bucky blue HSE7 with cold and tow packs, new for $47,875. These days on eBay you can find a decent deal for about $42K through demo or slightly used LR3's. Just know what you're buying and what you're shopping for.
  • knuckleheadknucklehead Member Posts: 30
    LR3's, as well as, the Range Rover Sport and Range Rover were never meant to be bought by cost conscious people. They're luxury SUV's meant for people that just want one. If purchase cost and fuel economy are concerns, then the LR3 is not the right vehicle.
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    <(that volvo xc90 v8 with seriously boosted steering, is running on the older, yamaha engineered taurus sho engine...not the paradigm of reliability.)>

    Pretty good post, I agree that an auto purchase can be analytical for some and emotional for others, and it is important to define what kind of person you are before jumping off the cliff. I disagree with your statement above. The SHO engine was a 3.4L at its largest, and there is no evidence that it was anything but reliable. I will not get sucked into the trap of saying "I owned two, and . . .," but, if anything, the engine was the most relaible part of the SHO.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Agreed there is nothing wrong with the motor in the V8 XC90 it is the transmission that is questionable. They are asking a lot of a transmission that was original designed for a midsized/fullsized cars and a turbo I6 with less then 300 horsepower.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I was easily able to confirm that North America uses 315 MHz. It says it right on my key. so I guess we cant use the UK actuator.
  • knuckleheadknucklehead Member Posts: 30
    I'm a little confused on what the transmitting frequency has to do with the actual lock actuator. I also tested that plug that sits behind the panel and looks like it's for the gas door actuator. It tested at 12 volts and operated with the locking and unlocking of the doors. That is to say when you pressed the key-fob "unlock" twice it registered current, and when you pressed "lock" it registered current. So it would seem that pretty much hooking the actuator up to the plug would work, if you could get the actuator. I have a spare 12volt door lock actuator in my garage and if I can find it and the time, I'll test it.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    What you are trying to do was my original thought - use a door lock actuator. But when grommet replied with the UK part number and frequency, I assumed the lock used a radio signal to lock and unlock.
    Please let us know if your spare actuator works. Is it a Land Rover actuator? What part number? Does it look like it can be used on the gas door or be modified to fit? Also, can you confirm the wiring colors matched what I found?
    Thanks
  • knuckleheadknucklehead Member Posts: 30
    The plug is hardwired in with the door locks, it's definately not radio controlled. Here's a picture of the actuator I have (I just Googled it and picked the first site that had a picture that was the one I have lying around) http://www.autotechs.com/items/item129.htm It's just a generic 2-wire, 12volt, plunger type actuator. Based on the reading I got when I tested the plug, I'm almost certain it will operate. But since I only opened the access door and stuck my probes in I really didn't have a good view and don't know if a standard actuator could be made to fit. There are other designs of these actuators, so one might be similiar to the one LR uses. I would have to see a LR actuator and also take the entire panel off back there to get a good view. Unfortuantely, I'll have to wait until the wife goes on a trip, she gets a "little" unhappy when she sees me around her LR with tools, looking like I'm going to start taking things apart, which I am. ;)
  • knuckleheadknucklehead Member Posts: 30
    Okay, while my wife was in a meeting I snuck out to the parking lot and checked the plug again with a meter and it looks like it won't work with a standard 12v actuator (I guess my memory isn't what it used to be). The plug was reading in millivolts. I think it would be easiest to just get a LR actuator. I did snap a pic of the plug though, so you know which one I'm talking about. The picture is through the opening of the access door to the jack. The plug is in the center of the frame just below the visible wires in the loom. It's two female holes are visible.
    Actuator Plug
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    Thanks for doing all that. When I go to the dealer next week I'll look up the LR actuator and see if I can find out how it works. Maybe a door actuator will be the same. Maybe the power on the door actuator works the same - apply milivolts to engage, apply again to disengage. I'll see if my plug looks like yours and I'll measure my mV over the weekend.
  • kandgkandg Member Posts: 53
    True Tom, perhaps i should revise the statement. The poor taurus usu. fell apart before the engine gave up the ghost:) IMHO i do feel the engine even with the maxed spec figures given for the xc90 still felt "lacking" esp in the areas of NVH but i'm sure to some other drivers it will be quite adequate. Now if only i could get my 295hp jaguar v8 make my LR3, perform like the one in their tomcat/wildcat/bowler

    image
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I checked my voltages at the connector in your photo. The top wire got about 40 to 70 mV pulse vs. ground when Lock was pushed, the bottom wire got the same when unlock was pushed. I'm sure this is not enough voltage to operate an actuator unless it is just the signal and the actuator receives voltage from another connector. I did find another unused connector but it didnt' have any voltage on it.
  • roverguy76roverguy76 Member Posts: 13
    Hello Forum!

    I want to Land Rover regarding the previously mentioned quirky PDC. They told me there was no update available for the PDC. I told them it was inoperative at times and they said, again, that they could not reproduce the problem.

    Also, do any of you guys notice a clicking/ticking when you play CDs? I don't think its a scratch in the CD, as it happens with ALL discs I play. The click sound is faint, but you can clearly hear it during the silent pauses between songs. Just wondering.

    Happy Rovering Guys!
    Darius
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    Did they read the LA413-001 TSB, which I mentioned earlier? "Park Distance System Intermittent Operation" Ask them to pull it up. This can apply to 2005 vehices, like mine.

    I don't hear any ticking/clicking while the CD is spinning on my head unit.
  • pbroverpbrover Member Posts: 43
    Update for you. My dealership will be replacing all (4) tires. It will cost me $275 because the tires have 9,500 miles on them. They stated the rear tires were out of alignment but the front tires were not. Instead of battling over the the pro ration charge I agreed. All four tires showed abnormal wear "my opinion/my eyes" on the the inside of all (4) tires, so I am little consider this might happen again on the front tires. Any thoughts? Also, I told you about my headphone jacks not working on the right side of the car. Dealership has a new amplifier on order to fix that problem...As always thank you! :)
  • flownerflowner Member Posts: 42
    Did they adjust the camber on the rear tires.

    This is not the first time LR has had problems with vehicles and tire wear. If you check the RR forum you see they had problems.
  • pbroverpbrover Member Posts: 43
    I gave them the correct camber settings from grommet. My tech likes to use the word alignment instead of camber. Correction though to my previous e-mail: My front tires were out of alignment. Note: When I first brought this issue up to my service rep 3 weeks ago he stated there is no such thing as rear alignment issues. Oh how wrong the "jedi" was....smiling :shades:
  • gwellandgwelland Member Posts: 23
    Welcome to the 2nd compressor club. My LR3 is 18 months old now and I started getting the suspension fault warning which then progressed on to vehicle raising slowly warnings. Eventually the compressor seemed to stop producing the 'pump' sound altogether but would eventually raise the vehicle.

    My dealer replaced the compressor under warranty. Aparantly the problem is with one of the valve components but can only be fixed by a complete replacement.
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    I just leased a 2006 LR3 SE with most options. Two questions.

    First: Does anyone know how to turn on the trail lights (this is an add on)?

    Second: Ive read a bunch of these and what would be the top 3-5 things to look for and get fixed under the warranty? and

    Third (okay that is three qs) Does anyone know if the 2006s are performing better than the 2005s from a reliability standpoint (ie have the suspension and other common issues discussed been remedied?)
  • gwellandgwelland Member Posts: 23
    As regards warranty issues I don't think that a list of issues seen with early cars (like mine) necessarily apply to 2006 vehicles because it's a natural evolution of the LR3 that it'll get better. The unfortunate fact is that you have to encounter problems and fix them to produce a more reliable vehicle. Ideally this is done in product testing before release but the reality is that you can't find everything if you hope to actually release a car and get it on sale.

    I would doubt that a current vehicle would suffer the various problems we've had with software, suspension, coolant tanks, fuel tanks, MAF sensor, fuel sensitivity, tire wear etc, etc.

    Despite the problems with the earlier LR3's, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. The good news for me, at least, is that I wouldn't change my vehicle now because all of the problems have been fixed so far and I'd like to think that it's become use hardened.
    I've had mine for a while now with 30,000 miles on it and I don't see anything in the market that comes close to the capabilities of the LR3 (ok, maybe the RR Sport :shades: ).

    Enjoy it and drives the tires off it.
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    Thanks - that makes sense. The interesting thing about Land Rovers is that Consumer reports dishes them, but when you look at Comsumer satisfaction, its very high. People like their land rovers despite some chronic problems. In addition to my 06 LR3 i also have a 2001 Disco II. I had to replace the transfer case - a $2800 item and some other emissions line (900 dollars) but i still love that vehicle. Economically i should sell it and focus on my new lease, but heck I cant remember ever having a vehicle that can probably climb a tree. And these Land Rovers can. Thanks for your response
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I keep finding new things on my Feb. 06 build LR3. Did you know it has a tire pressure monitoring system? I don't recall reading this in the manual but maybe I missed it.

    I bought a 12 volt air compressor and wanted to test it so I let all the air out of one of my tires. I then started my truck so the air compressor wouldn't run down the battery. There was a yellow tire icon lit on the dash showing the tire was low. I don't know how it knew this unless it had a radio transmitter because I didn't move the truck so it couldn't use tire rotation as a measuring system. Does anybody know more about this monitoring system?

    After I filled my tire the icon went away. If anyone is interested, the compressor worked great. It took 4 minutes to fill from very flat to 33 psi. I know there are compressors on ebay that might cost less but I don't know if they work as advertised. I bought mine from Harbor Freight Tools so I could try it and return it if it didn't work. It seems well built. If you have a store near you they will sell you at the website price if you bring in the printout. If you sign up for their emails they often send you discount coupons. I paid $60 for mine less a 20 percent coupon so it cost $48 plus tax. Here it is:
    www.harborfreight.com Item #93186
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    The tire pressure monitoring system came out on late build 2006 LR3's. I think the change date was sometime around January one.
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    Basically, any LR3/RRS built after mid-December. Since it'll start being "mandatory" by law in North America next year, it won't be an uncommon feature for any vehicle. :)
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I thought it was coming but it wasn't in the manual. Do you know how it works? Is it radio sensors in the wheels? How much pressure must it drop to before it sets the warning? Where's the sensor, in the base of the valve stem? If so, I'd caution people exchanging their wheels for chrome ones, they might not get the sensors. How does the sensor get power, from rotational inertia?
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    Has anyone had problems with the integrated phone system using a Blackberry (or at all)? My phone - a blackberry with bluetooth, is sometimes picked up or not by the LR3 or vice versa. I cannot tell. I have to toggle the blue tooth on the phone on and off and connect and disconnect till it works. Plus it seems i cannot get incoming. is this a phone issue? a LR3 bluetooth issue or is this just they way it is?

    Thanks for any insight
  • macc24macc24 Member Posts: 20
    My 2006 LR3 cruise control indicator light is yellow...the manual says it should be green. Anyone else have a yellow light when activated? Anyone have a green indicator light?

    On a separate subject anyone had manual success disabling the service indicator yet? I'm on day -4 but I just purchased this new Rover in March. My nearest dealer is 400 miles away.

    Thanks.

    MC
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Mac... My Cruise Control light is amber (yellow).

    To the forum... My 2006 LR3 HSE has 4,200 miles and no problems so far.

    I'll get the tires balanced and rotated at 7,500 miles and probably will get an alignment too.

    I am totally happy with my LR3!

    I stopped to fill up the tank the other day as my low fuel light came on.... The pump automatically stops at $75.00 of which it did and surprised me. Premium was $3.65 a gallon and I put in just over 20 gallons. I didn't try to put anymore in as the fuel gauge was showing full. :sick:

    Also, I am not showing any tire wear on the rear tires; everything looks even.

    Mark156 :D
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,255
    hey 'brit, you didn't happen to be in bristol/farmington around 4:30 today did you?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Hmhh nope did not. I am pretty sure I was in my office around that time.

    Why do you ask?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,255
    a silver LR-3 with a dealer plate went by me in the left turn lane at the intersection of rte 6 and 177 headed north.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • lr2006lr2006 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same issue. sometimes it connects and works for both incoming and outgoing until I leave the car and sometimes it connects and works once and no more. I'm still trying different combinations to see if I can get a consistant failure mode.

    Please let me know if you make any progress

    Thanks!
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    It seems that everytime i start the car it shows i am connected but it wont work until i disabled, enable and then connect. if i do those steps it works. the only inbound call i received was from a call waiting call so i dont know if that counts. hopefully someone on here has a good idea of how to solve this
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Probably one of our service loaner LR3s we have two silver ones. One is a V8 and the other is a V6.

    My personal Demo is a 2002 Disco that we also use for off road demonstrations so it is a little beat up.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Broken links
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,255
    i'm trying link to a picture. haven't got it to work, yet. you can got to my 'carspace' to see one i took with you in mind. :)
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Oh yeah I have seen that truck before at our dealership. I think it is a series IIA but it might be a Series III I don't remember.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    image

    That would be an early SIII export model circa 1971. :shades:
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