I'm experiencing starting diffuculties with my 2005 Nox LT, 65k miles. It feels like a clogged fuel filter. The Jiffy lube guy told me that the fuel filter is in the fuel tank and that you have to remove the fuel tank to replace it. Is that accurate?
Have an '05 Equinox, and have been having front brake noises. Moderate to severe grinding/rubbing noises when coming to a stop, usually in warm weather and in frequent low-speed stop and go driving. Have changed the brake pads once already, and resurfaced the rotors. Problem continues, but not as bad as before, but seems to be getting worse. Have also checked wheel torque, is okay at specs. Any suggestions?
USUALLY ONE LOOKS OVER A VEHICLE BEFORE PURCHASE, THEY WOULD THEN OBSERVE THE CLEARANCE OF SAID VEHICLE HOW CAN ONE BLAME THE VEHICLE FOR RUNNING OVER AN ISLAND.
Sound like you are still in the stone ages. American companies have been out sourcing consumer goods for ages. Whats wrong with GM saving some money by out sourcing the assembly of their V6? The 3.4L engine in the Equinox is a proven GM design which is assembled overseas. My family have easily put 200,000 miles on these engines. It is a reliable engine design, thats easy to assemble, and has a timing chain which lasts the life of the engine. I also save $400+ every 60,000 miles, since I don't have replace a timingbelt/waterpump, like you have to, on those so-called reliable "Hi tech" foreign engines.
I haven't made any comments for a few months now but now I'm back. My gas mileage still sucks, I'm getting 18 or 19 if I have been on the highway and a lot worse if I'm just driving in town. I took my vehicle in to have the water leak in the spare tire well fixed. They removed the bumper and welded something and seemed to fix it but after getting 3 0r 4 inch rain last week the water is back (about 2 inches deep) Is there anyone that has gotten results in fixing this problem that could reply to me and let me know what you did to fix the problem and what dealer fixed it. I also had a problem with the vehicle not starting last week. It took about 5 tries and it finally started. Also, I'm still getting the clunk, clunk clunk in rear when I first start the vehicle occasionally. I would appreciate some help from someone.
Sorry, don't have an answer for you, but am having the same clunk, clunk, clunk on my 2005 with just 12,000 miles on it. It's been happening for several months. Had it to the dealer 3X and of course they "can't duplicate the problem." And my gas mileage keeps getting worse, recently was 16 MPG mostly highway. Plus the leather has already started cracking. At least no water or smell problems so far. Would love to hear anyone's theory on the clunk sounds.
I also have that clunk,clunk noise when I start my car but I didn't htink anything untill I read some comments others make, is that suppose to be bad, It doesn't bother me much.
And yes what's with that gas consumption I think it's very bad, I had the venture before, we thought it would be the same since it's also 3.4L and yet it's not.
Your clunk, clunk sound is totally normal. I've got a 05 Nox LT FWD. and that sound comes from a system that's making a check. The sound comes from underneath in the back section And by pure coincidence I had a 1999 Venture LS and yes my Equinox is harder on gas and it's a 3.4L Go figure. Most be the transmission that's not geared the same. I'm glad I'm not the only one. And to make it worst I can't figure out my gas gage it marks empty and I still have plenty in or my gas tank in the dash lights up and the next morning it's off for a couple of day. Very confusing gage. Don't worry, your clunks and mpg are normal things. Have to lurn to live with it I guess.
It's me again. You can go and read my explanation posts # 822 and # 885 on the evac system (clunk clunk sound) or make a search by taping evac in the search bar and all the posts with that word will be opened to you.
I have been having the same lost of power while driving issue on my 05 Equinox. Usually, an indicator light on the dashboard will then start blinking and will go away after about 10-15 seconds ( although it stayed lit for about 30 minutes about 2 days ago and started to drive towards the local Chevy dealer. As i was about to enter the dealership service area, the indicator light disappeared ). I have mentioned this "lost of power" and "hesitation" issue with the service writer the last time I had an oil change but since it was very intermittent and the indicator lights do not stay lit, he suggested to wait until the problem is more evident and easily duplicated.
Fortunately, I do not have the starting problem. Also,the hesitation issue seems to happen more coming from a steady cruising about 50-60 mph, slowing down , then pressing the gas pedal slowly to regain speed. If I press the pedal harder to give the engine more gas , the hesitation issue does not come into play.
Has your service dealership been able to fix your Equinox to your satisfaction or are you still having the same problems? If fixed , can you please post the service details ? Thanks.
I have the same problem as you since mai 2006! They have changed the radio, the batterie and still have the same problem. I think there is a short somewhere... I have found a temporary solution with is taking out the radio fuse. My truck starts with no problem without the radio fuse... I will go see another dealer in another town, maybe there smarter. If you have found the problem please let me know.
I went to my dealer to get my weather strip (between the rear spoiler and the roof) replace on my 2005 Equinox because it was got loose and torn. The original strip was the length of my tailgate (from driver to passenger side). When I went to pick it up I noticed that it was shorter than the original. The dealer told me that he ordered the original part and said that now they are shorter than before and could not get one like I had. He said that the 2007's are all short like the one they installed. There was no 2007's in stock for me to check. Could this be possible? G.M. just went and changed the original weather strip for a shorter one?
I also paid over $27K and cannot begin to express my "joy" of having a car with AC and heating which is not nearly as effective as my 14 year old Buick, tilt steering which I cannot use, cup holders which I cannot use, an emergency brake I cannot use and map pockets I cannot use and yes, those seats are extrememly uncomfortable. Does anyone else notice these design flaws? or is it just me. I am pleased that someone else noticed the noises as the dealer looked at me like I was insane when I told him about it. I've tried to have the emergency brake fixed a couple of times and now my entire brake system is messed up. My power steering goes out whenever I park. It's almost impossible to turn the wheel. When I took it in, they said it's computerized and they do not get any faulty readings. I noticed that they had the steering wheel much higher than I keep it. I've been driving with the wheel in their position, and it's seems to be working fine - but it's very uncomfortable for me to drive that way. It's no wonder to me why GM is struggling. I have remained faithful to buying American....I will not make this mistake again.
I have an 05 Nox LT with 40K miles. I've been having it serviced (oil changes, etc) at my local Chevy dealership. They just recommended that I have the cooling system flushed, brake fluid flushed, and have belt replaced, at an estimated cost of over $500. I declined...anyone with insight if these are typical maintainance items at 40K?
As far as the cooling system, if you have an extended warranty use it to have the dealer look at you system. Read some of the other postings on cooling system in the NOX and you may be in the same boat as several others. I also have an 05 and have it in the shop today because the DEXCOOL has turned black and smells like burnt rubber. :sick:
I had my NOX in this week for the usual,(nocking front end and smelly coolant). As it turns out the burnt smelling DEXCOOL has had a service notice out on it since April of 02(according to my Service reciept today), so my question is this, if GM has known abou the problem with the coolant since at least 02, haw did it end up in my 05 NOX? Needless to say they did have to replace the entire hose and tank system, so we shall see. I am planning on going someplace else and getting the system flushed and replaced with PRESTONE. PRESTONE does make a formula that is accepted by GM as a replacement for DEXCOOL. So everyone should check thier coolant to see what is up with it.
As far as the front suspension goes, I had the NOX in a few weeks ago for the knocking in the front end and was told that it was a stablizer bushing in th esteering. Dealer replaced it and it was fine for about 4 miles then it started again. Today my service reciept states that they had to replace the entire electronic steering assembly. Dorve it home(about 10 miles) with no knocking, but the steering is extremely tight and very responsive. The NOX has never driven like this so we shall see how long it lasts. :P
I had my 05 LT in the shop for a rattle in the steering when I turn left over little bumps. For the 2nd time dealer "fixed" the issue by replacein a selonoid i the steering. The NOX line has only power assist steering and not hydrolic. Now the steering is tight, which I don't mind, but when you put a little tension on the wheel and then release it while the vehicle is in motion the steering wheel rocks from side to side and then drifts to the right. Dealer now says theat there is a problem with the electronic steering. I WANT A JEEP. :sick:
Has anyone found or know a solution to this problem? I have an 07 Torrent and hear it on acceleration. I have been listening to others on the road and hear the same thing. Is this normal on these cars? Thanks.
40k miles, definetely the brake fluid. That should be done every 36K miles. I doubt you need the coolant system flushed, take a look at it yourself, open the radiator, does it look dirty? That should last at least 5 years or 60K. Igonore the "100,000" coolant, that's just a selling point for GM and other car makers. The belt? Take a look at it closely, does it look cracked? These belts typically last between 60K and 75K, so I doubt it, but then again, were talking GM here (not Toyota). Better change it by 50K to be on the safe side! And I hope you havent been waiting for the 'nox oil change light to come on!! Ignore that, and have the oil changed between 3K and 5K, based on your driving conditions. A computer cannot possibly know your driving conditions!! (Don't forget to reset it, read the manual and it tells you how, very easy, I think you have to press the acc. pedal three times with the ignition on, read the manual). And be sure to keep the 'nox tires at the recommended HIGH inflation pressure of 35psi, check your door jamb to make sure. Good luck with your 'nox.
Not sure why GM chose 35 psi for them, probably to save gas? I wouldn't try anything less than 35 psi, always set them to what the manufacture says, and when the tires are cold.
Yes, 35 psi. is recommended by most tire companies but I've always inflated my tires at 33 psi. From my point of view 35 psi. gives you a rough ride. It's much smoother at 33 psi. and not that bad on tire wear. I've been doing this for many years without any problems.
I went to check it out and it's very clearly marked 35psi and the spare at 60psi (compact spare). If you ever drive with tires inflated at 30psi you're going to need some new tires pretty soon. Under inflated wear, the sides (in and out) are going to get bald.
tire manufacturers provide sidewall information for max inflation pressure. vehicle manufacturers provide inflation pressure for designed handling characteristics, using OEM tires.
problem is, tires are not all alike. the sidewall rating on a mini-van or suv or cuv tire made by bridgestone isn't likely to have the same rating as that on a michelin.
"......the sidewall rating on a mini-van or suv or cuv tire made by bridgestone isn't likely to have the same rating as that on a michelin........"
Uh, not exactly.
Tires are standardized and the key is the size. If you use the same size, then the pressure listed on the placard is appropriate from a load carrying capacity point of view. Will you get exactly the same ride and handling characterisitics? Pretty close, but these 2 properties can be changed without a change in inflation pressure.
It is not true that changing from the original tire changes the appropriateness of the inflation pressure. At that pressure, a tire - regardless of who manufacturers it - will still have the same load carrying capacity - and of all the things a tire does, that is the most important.
Let me ask you a simple question. What is the heaviest, 1 pound of feathers or 1 pound of lead? Both weight the same, right?
The air in the tire does not know what companie built the tire its in. P.S.I=(pressior/square inch). It doesn't matter if its a Goodyear, Bridgestone, Firestone ect or if it's on a car, suv, van. It's calculated by pressior per square inch.
i'm confused because i've had both different tires installed on my car, and they both had different max sidewall inflation pressures. i think the michelin's on their now have some grossly low max PSI inflation pressure numbers, i believe even lower than the placard on the door jam.
i'm just trying to understand your points.
here's a rhetorical question in response to the questions you're asking of me:
how does a run-flat tire manage to support itself when the pressure inside the tire vs. atmospheric pressure outside the tire are essentially the same?
Max pressure on the sidewall? This is controlled by a government regulation and not some technical property. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be an agreement as to what the regulation really says is supposed to be there, so you'll get different pressures, even though the tires are designed to the same basic standard.
RunFlat tires? What holds the tires up in regular tires is, of course, the air pressure. What the pressure really does is pretension the casing and prevents the casing from going into compression.
In a RunFlat, the casing goes into compression when operated without inflation pressure and a very stiff and thick column of rubber then supports the weight of the vehicle. The obvious disadvantages to this column of rubber is the additional weight (the wrong direction for both ride and handling), the sidewall stiffness (hurts ride), and the cost - and there is a limit as to how far you can travel un-inflated - and how fast.
my point was, because of sidewall stiffness, it doesn't matter if the pressure differential w.r.t. inside/outside tire pressure of a RFT was zero, the vehicle could still ride on the tires.
my other point was, tires are not all designed to have the same max inflation pressure. at least they did not have the same inflation pressure on the two different tires i mentioned (Bridgestone Potenza RE90 and Michelin Symmetry). i'm thinking, and i could be wrong, the placard on the vehicle indicates recommended pressure (for OEM tires) to achieve optimal handling and/or fuel economy.
Now, are you telling me that both tires should be inflated (maximally) to the rating on the sidewall, or maximally to the specification on the placard of the door jam, or are you telling me something different like inflate both tires (optimally) to the rating on the vehicle placard?
".....my point was, because of sidewall stiffness, it doesn't matter if the pressure differential w.r.t. inside/outside tire pressure of a RFT was zero, the vehicle could still ride on the tires...."
I'm not quite sure what point you are trying to make.
If it is that is doesn't matter what inflation pressure is in the tires for durability purposes, allow me to point out that a non-Runflat tire will only last a few hundred feet with no pressure, and that even RunFlat tires have an allowable limit before the durability is not assured by the tire manufacturer. I think the limit is pretty much 50 miles.
The same is true if there is inflation pressure. Operating a tire with low pressures causes heat build up in the tire and that can cause the rubber to lose integrity over time. Obviously the lower the pressure, the faster that occurs.
".......my other point was, tires are not all designed to have the same max inflation pressure......"
That isn't quite accurate. A given size tire has the same load curve regardless of who manufactures the tire. And the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall is not a function of the design per se. It is more a function of how folks read the government regulation.
"......at least they did not have the same inflation pressure on the two different tires i mentioned (Bridgestone Potenza RE90 and Michelin Symmetry)......"
I am aware the Michelin reads the government regulation differently than pretty much anyone else. I think the comparison you are making is TRULY all about the government regulation.
"......I'm thinking, and i could be wrong, the placard on the vehicle indicates recommended pressure (for OEM tires) to achieve optimal handling and/or fuel economy......"
My experience says that both handling and fuel economy are enhanced by just a bit more pressure, however the ride degrades a bit - and based on that experience, I take the position that the pressure is more geared towards ride.
".......Now, are you telling me that both tires should be inflated (maximally) to the rating on the sidewall......"
No, that is clearly a usage maximum - independent of the vehicle the tire is on, and colored by the reading of the government regulation.
"........or maximally to the specification on the placard of the door jam...."
Not maximally, but the pressure on the placard is at least appropriate from a load carrying point of view - and IMHO a minimal value - a few more psi won't hurt - with a few exceptions.
"......or are you telling me something different like inflate both tires (optimally) to the rating on the vehicle placard?....."
In a way, that's what I am saying. Read this post over again, and I think you'll get what I am driving at.
i concede the spec on the pillar is not a maximum rating.
and is it not true that different tires have different sidewall stiffness, possibly even differing sidewall construction (type and number of belts) and yet be of the same dimensions / size?
that door placard located recommendation - it's degree of optimality is gonna change with tire brand IMHO.
i would think you wouldn't want to go below the setting on the vehicle placard correct?
...which brings us to the Ford Explorer tire issue. Ford was saying inflate to X, and Firestone to Y, where X<Y, and we know what happened. do i recollect history incorrectly?
"........and is it not true that different tires have different sidewall stiffness, possibly even differing sidewall construction (type and number of belts) and yet be of the same dimensions / size?......"
If we confine the discussion to a given size - generally, and I really want to emphasize generally, no, the sidewall construction (number of plies) will be the same regardless of who manufactures the tire. There are several reasons for this, but it boils down to Physics and the fact the ply material comes in discreet increments, so tire manufacturers naturally tend to use the same stuff.
BTW, belts are not part of the sidewall and don't enter into the picture with regard to the load carrying capability of the tire.
"......that door placard located recommendation - it's degree of optimality is gonna change with tire brand IMHO.
i would think you wouldn't want to go below the setting on the vehicle placard correct?....."
Yes, and I am looking at it strictly from a load carrying capacity point of view.
Obviously, there will be some differences between tires that could be "tuned" by inflation pressure to deliver the same ride or handling properties (one or the other), but that doesn't change the validity of the placard pressure and load carrying capacity.
"......which brings us to the Ford Explorer tire issue. Ford was saying inflate to X, and Firestone to Y, where X<Y, and we know what happened. do i recollect history incorrectly?......"
What this historical discussion was all about was what we Tire Engineers refer to as "Reserve Capacity" - the difference between the actual load on the tire and what the load carrying capacity of the tire is at the specified inflation pressure. Ford specified a pressure that resulted in no extra capacity when the vehicle was in its max load condition. Firestone correctly pointed out that this was poor engineering practice, especially considering the average person's tendancy to ignore inflation maintenance which eventually results in badly underinflated tires.
However, it is clear that Firestone had a problem - which they identified. Actually, they identified several problems, but one of them was a combination design / manufacturing problem - and a peculiar one at that! This peculiar problem was of interest to those of us in the engineering community and we took a lesson from it.
I don't know if you have noticed, but many of the SUV's and trucks now come with larger tires - a result of the arguement that Firestone made - Reserve Capacity.
i appreciate your patience and willingness to provide more information on the matter. i think you've calibrated me. i'll only use recommended tires with appropriate load carrying capability and inflate to at least the pressure on the placard.
Comments
Any suggestions?
Should I change the rotors completely?
HOW CAN ONE BLAME THE VEHICLE FOR RUNNING OVER AN ISLAND.
American companies have been out sourcing consumer goods for ages.
Whats wrong with GM saving some money by out sourcing the assembly of their V6?
The 3.4L engine in the Equinox is a proven GM design which is assembled overseas.
My family have easily put 200,000 miles on these engines.
It is a reliable engine design, thats easy to assemble, and has a timing chain which lasts the life of the engine.
I also save $400+ every 60,000 miles, since I don't have replace a timingbelt/waterpump, like you have to, on those so-called reliable "Hi tech" foreign engines.
I also had a problem with the vehicle not starting last week. It took about 5 tries and it finally started. Also, I'm still getting the clunk, clunk clunk in rear when I first start the vehicle occasionally. I would appreciate some help from someone.
And check the spot welds if you haven't already:
jacciarri, "Chevrolet Equinox Maintenance and Repair" #956, 16 Dec 2006 10:10 am
And yes what's with that gas consumption I think it's very bad, I had the venture before, we thought it would be the same since it's also 3.4L and yet it's not.
Fortunately, I do not have the starting problem. Also,the hesitation issue seems to happen more coming from a steady cruising about 50-60 mph, slowing down , then pressing the gas pedal slowly to regain speed. If I press the pedal harder to give the engine more gas , the hesitation issue does not come into play.
Has your service dealership been able to fix your Equinox to your satisfaction or are you still having the same problems? If fixed , can you please post the service details ? Thanks.
As far as the front suspension goes, I had the NOX in a few weeks ago for the knocking in the front end and was told that it was a stablizer bushing in th esteering. Dealer replaced it and it was fine for about 4 miles then it started again. Today my service reciept states that they had to replace the entire electronic steering assembly. Dorve it home(about 10 miles) with no knocking, but the steering is extremely tight and very responsive. The NOX has never driven like this so we shall see how long it lasts. :P
Good luck with your 'nox.
I wouldn't try anything less than 35 psi, always set them to what the manufacture says, and when the tires are cold.
problem is, tires are not all alike. the sidewall rating on a mini-van or suv or cuv tire made by bridgestone isn't likely to have the same rating as that on a michelin.
so, what do ya do?
Uh, not exactly.
Tires are standardized and the key is the size. If you use the same size, then the pressure listed on the placard is appropriate from a load carrying capacity point of view. Will you get exactly the same ride and handling characterisitics? Pretty close, but these 2 properties can be changed without a change in inflation pressure.
It is not true that changing from the original tire changes the appropriateness of the inflation pressure. At that pressure, a tire - regardless of who manufacturers it - will still have the same load carrying capacity - and of all the things a tire does, that is the most important.
you're telling me i should be running both tires to the same inflation pressure; i.e. the value on the vehicle placard?
The air in the tire does not know what companie built the tire its in. P.S.I=(pressior/square inch). It doesn't matter if its a Goodyear, Bridgestone, Firestone ect or if it's on a car, suv, van. It's calculated by pressior per square inch.
i'm just trying to understand your points.
here's a rhetorical question in response to the questions you're asking of me:
how does a run-flat tire manage to support itself when the pressure inside the tire vs. atmospheric pressure outside the tire are essentially the same?
Max pressure on the sidewall? This is controlled by a government regulation and not some technical property. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be an agreement as to what the regulation really says is supposed to be there, so you'll get different pressures, even though the tires are designed to the same basic standard.
RunFlat tires? What holds the tires up in regular tires is, of course, the air pressure. What the pressure really does is pretension the casing and prevents the casing from going into compression.
In a RunFlat, the casing goes into compression when operated without inflation pressure and a very stiff and thick column of rubber then supports the weight of the vehicle. The obvious disadvantages to this column of rubber is the additional weight (the wrong direction for both ride and handling), the sidewall stiffness (hurts ride), and the cost - and there is a limit as to how far you can travel un-inflated - and how fast.
my other point was, tires are not all designed to have the same max inflation pressure. at least they did not have the same inflation pressure on the two different tires i mentioned (Bridgestone Potenza RE90 and Michelin Symmetry). i'm thinking, and i could be wrong, the placard on the vehicle indicates recommended pressure (for OEM tires) to achieve optimal handling and/or fuel economy.
Now, are you telling me that both tires should be inflated (maximally) to the rating on the sidewall, or maximally to the specification on the placard of the door jam, or are you telling me something different like inflate both tires (optimally) to the rating on the vehicle placard?
I'm still confused.
I'm not quite sure what point you are trying to make.
If it is that is doesn't matter what inflation pressure is in the tires for durability purposes, allow me to point out that a non-Runflat tire will only last a few hundred feet with no pressure, and that even RunFlat tires have an allowable limit before the durability is not assured by the tire manufacturer. I think the limit is pretty much 50 miles.
The same is true if there is inflation pressure. Operating a tire with low pressures causes heat build up in the tire and that can cause the rubber to lose integrity over time. Obviously the lower the pressure, the faster that occurs.
".......my other point was, tires are not all designed to have the same max inflation pressure......"
That isn't quite accurate. A given size tire has the same load curve regardless of who manufactures the tire. And the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall is not a function of the design per se. It is more a function of how folks read the government regulation.
"......at least they did not have the same inflation pressure on the two different tires i mentioned (Bridgestone Potenza RE90 and Michelin Symmetry)......"
I am aware the Michelin reads the government regulation differently than pretty much anyone else. I think the comparison you are making is TRULY all about the government regulation.
"......I'm thinking, and i could be wrong, the placard on the vehicle indicates recommended pressure (for OEM tires) to achieve optimal handling and/or fuel economy......"
My experience says that both handling and fuel economy are enhanced by just a bit more pressure, however the ride degrades a bit - and based on that experience, I take the position that the pressure is more geared towards ride.
".......Now, are you telling me that both tires should be inflated (maximally) to the rating on the sidewall......"
No, that is clearly a usage maximum - independent of the vehicle the tire is on, and colored by the reading of the government regulation.
"........or maximally to the specification on the placard of the door jam...."
Not maximally, but the pressure on the placard is at least appropriate from a load carrying point of view - and IMHO a minimal value - a few more psi won't hurt - with a few exceptions.
"......or are you telling me something different like inflate both tires (optimally) to the rating on the vehicle placard?....."
In a way, that's what I am saying. Read this post over again, and I think you'll get what I am driving at.
My understanding is max inflation pressure on the sidewall is the tire mfg statement of the max pressure that should be put into the tire, period.
Door placard is the auto mfg recommended inflation pressure for the OEM size tire.
I think I agree that placard inflation pressure is slanted toward ride comfort, but that is only my opinion.
With Regard To.
You may also be interested in the Tires, tires, tires discussion.
I'm glad we are back to the original point.
It is the tire size that is important, not what is printed on the sidewall for maximum pressure.
and is it not true that different tires have different sidewall stiffness, possibly even differing sidewall construction (type and number of belts) and yet be of the same dimensions / size?
that door placard located recommendation - it's degree of optimality is gonna change with tire brand IMHO.
i would think you wouldn't want to go below the setting on the vehicle placard correct?
...which brings us to the Ford Explorer tire issue. Ford was saying inflate to X, and Firestone to Y, where X<Y, and we know what happened. do i recollect history incorrectly?
If we confine the discussion to a given size - generally, and I really want to emphasize generally, no, the sidewall construction (number of plies) will be the same regardless of who manufactures the tire. There are several reasons for this, but it boils down to Physics and the fact the ply material comes in discreet increments, so tire manufacturers naturally tend to use the same stuff.
BTW, belts are not part of the sidewall and don't enter into the picture with regard to the load carrying capability of the tire.
"......that door placard located recommendation - it's degree of optimality is gonna change with tire brand IMHO.
i would think you wouldn't want to go below the setting on the vehicle placard correct?....."
Yes, and I am looking at it strictly from a load carrying capacity point of view.
Obviously, there will be some differences between tires that could be "tuned" by inflation pressure to deliver the same ride or handling properties (one or the other), but that doesn't change the validity of the placard pressure and load carrying capacity.
"......which brings us to the Ford Explorer tire issue. Ford was saying inflate to X, and Firestone to Y, where X<Y, and we know what happened. do i recollect history incorrectly?......"
What this historical discussion was all about was what we Tire Engineers refer to as "Reserve Capacity" - the difference between the actual load on the tire and what the load carrying capacity of the tire is at the specified inflation pressure. Ford specified a pressure that resulted in no extra capacity when the vehicle was in its max load condition. Firestone correctly pointed out that this was poor engineering practice, especially considering the average person's tendancy to ignore inflation maintenance which eventually results in badly underinflated tires.
However, it is clear that Firestone had a problem - which they identified. Actually, they identified several problems, but one of them was a combination design / manufacturing problem - and a peculiar one at that! This peculiar problem was of interest to those of us in the engineering community and we took a lesson from it.
I don't know if you have noticed, but many of the SUV's and trucks now come with larger tires - a result of the arguement that Firestone made - Reserve Capacity.