Anybody know when Haynes or Chilton will publish a repair manual for the Equinox/Torrent? Now going on 4 model years, and I can't find anything on these! (Factory service manuals are too expensive and complicated).
There is a dipstick on the nox it's in the most stupidest place. The great GM put on the side of the transmission by the trans mount. It's held in by a 12mm bolt. You have to check it when it's off. Also it's a special kind of fluid your owners manual should tell you what kind of fluid.
Does anyone have any issues with their 08 Equinox? I recently bought an 08 and have had it about 6 weeks and have had it in for service twice now and both times to get the A/C serviced, both times they had to put in freon. The first time obviously they didn't check for a leak, but this last time I brought it in and they had to put freon in again, I was mad that they didn't check for a leak, especially since this truck only has about 3800 miles on it. I made them keep it until they can come up with a solution. This is the night I dropped it off, so when I get it back I want to know if anyone else is having similar issues.
The main problem for bringing it in was that it blows cold then will blow warm, then cold, then warm. This repeats the entire time I drive it, and recently there has been a chemical like smell that comes out the vents when I come to a stop at lights.
I noticed that the AC is not very cold and it requires you to change over to the interior circulation every time you shut the fan off or even shut off the car. It is not exactly a well thought out system.
What model Equinox do you have? I have a problem that has plagued mine since I bought it. I have an LS and when accelerating, when the car is cold, there is a low bang/thump coming from the front drivers side once you get to 15 mph. It only does it once cause when I stop after it happens and then accelerate again up to 15 it does not repeat until the car is once again cold. Can you help?
At 4,400 miles I had to go to the dealer because I had bad vibrations occurring everytime I touched the brakes. They machined my front rotors because they we're warped. Then at 11,200 miles the same story... machined again and now at 21,800 miles here I go again with the same problem but this time the dealer tells me that they have to install new rotors because they're to thin to be machined. The problem here is that the dealer tells me that I have to pay for the new rotors because its part of the brake system and they're not covered by the warranty because it's of normal usage. My warranty ends in 3 weeks. My point of vue is that having to machine twice the front rotors and then tell me to change them with only 21,800 miles is not normal at all and this should be passed on my warranty. Dealers are so stupid,,, my front brakes are 20 % used but my rotors have been machined twice and I'm having the same problem? Rotors go bad before the brakes? Jezzz!
I had the same problem on my 2005 Equinox LT and 2004 Malibu. The rotors were turned 2 times on the Malibu to correct problem. The most likely cause of this problem is uneaven torquing of the lug nuts when they rotate the tires. On my Equinox I always loosen and tightened the lug nuts with a torque wrench every time it came back from the dealer after a tire rotation. I forgot to do it one time and the rotors warped. Just had front brakes replaced at 45K and the rotors were turned. It's been OK so far.
TSB 00-05-22-002F June 2005 outlines in detail the brake warranty service and procedures the dealers should follow per GM. Brake pulsation is to be corrected first by machining the rotors. However, if doing this would cause them to be below minimum thickness, the rotors should be replaced and covered under warranty.
Here is the text from that part of the bulletin. (the entire bulletin is over 10 pages)
BRAKE WARRANTY Brake Rotors: • Brake rotor warranty is covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Bumper-to-Bumper warranty. Reference the vehicle’s warranty guide for verification. • Rotors should be refinished NOT replaced for Customer Pulsation complaints. This condition is a result of rotor thickness variation, usually caused by LRO (wear induced over time and miles) or corrosion (Lot Rot). • When rotor refinishing, only remove the necessary amount of material from each side of the rotor and note that equal amounts of material do not have to be removed from both sides on any brake system using a floating caliper. • Rotors should be refinished for severe scoring — depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in). Important: If the scoring depth is more than 1.5 mm (0.060 in) after the rotor is refinished, it should be replaced. • Never reuse rotors that measure under the Minimum Thickness specification. In this instance, the rotor should be replaced.
I went back to the dealer yesterday and he is obsessed and he's still telling me that it will NOT pass on my warranty. I'm going back today and the fight is on. I'm not leaving the place until he tells me "it's on warranty" (now that I'm sure it is) and then make sure that the lug nuts are at a correct torque everytime the wheels come off. I'm buying a torque wrench in the weeks to come.
Sorry to hear the trouble your having with your rotors. The Dealer should replace your rotors and also check or turn the rear. Usually car companies have at least two different source suppliers for high volume parts during manufacturing. My Nox might have better rotors .? who knows?
It's a good idea to get yourself a torque wrench. I've owned one for over 25years, and I do re-torques if a shop rotates my tires. Most shops have torque sticks. I have found my lug nuts torqued 20 ft/lb over spec! Nox nut spec is 92 ft/lb.
I do most of my own brake work and tire rotations myself. With 35Kmiles, (original tires, brakes & rotors), our Equinox still stops smooth, and thats with my wife driving, stop and go, town driving with kids. Awhile back, I had one car with a rotor warp problem where I had the front rotors turned, and after replacing the front rotors, the problem came back. Came to find out that it was the back rotors that were the problem. I also had cars with drums that also needed to be turned. jd
Good news. Today the dealer changed my two front rotors and it did pass on warranty (had to call G.M.'s 1-800) and they called the dealer and the dealer called me back and told me that I had won. Thank to you guys "sgr5516" and "jim dandy" for your reply. And I bought myself a torque wrench this afternoon and I'll be checking my wheel lug nuts from now on.
My 2006 Equinox has just over 33,000 miles. Last week, I noticed a whirring noise while driving. I could not duplicate the noise with the car in park, but the noise would speed up as I accelerated and slow down when I braked. It also got louder. I took it to the dealer and after two days, they told me it was a transmission problem. While they hadn't opened the transmission yet, when they checked the fluid they discovered about a tablespoon of metal in the fluid. They told me they are going to rebuild the transmission. Luckily, it's still under warranty (just), but I am concerned that a transmission would fail at only 33K miles. Has anyone else had major transmission problems on their Equinox? By the way - I wish I had read this forum last month as my Equinox also had warped brake rotors, but I took it to a repair shop and paid $300 to have them machined! I didn't realize this was systemic with the Equinox and that GM was fixing these under warranty. Thanks GM for the notice!
For your warped rotors, the 2 times I went and the dealer machined them there was no problems they even told me without me asking that it would pass on my warranty. The problem I had to fight for was when it came time to replace the rotors because they were to thin that was a different story. But with some help with people on this forum I called G.M. 1-800 customer service and they called my dealer and the rotors where replaced on my warranty.
I also have been having this problem, but since the dealership couldn't duplicate the noise they have no way of knowing what the issue is. I told them it was my transmission...being a woman they must not think that I have a clue, but thank you for your post because I am going to call the dealership tomorrow and have them check the transmission fluid and see if it is the same issue you have. I had about the same milage when this issue started. I love my equinox...NOT...buyers beware!!!
I'm not saying that it's not your transmission, could be but..... I had the same whirring noise that was getting louder every day. I found out that It was a bad "rear wheel bearing" causing that noise. The dealer changed the bearing and the sound is gone. Maybe that's why you can't hear it in park, the wheels are not rolling. (truck moving) Try this little test.... drive your truck and put it in neutral and let it roll. If it's a bearing problem you'll still hear the noise. What I did to be sure, I put the transmission on neutral, turned the engine off and let the truck roll and I could hear the sound and that sound went lower and lower as the truck lost speed.
It's not the wheel bearing; as I stated in my original post, the dealer confirmed it was the transmission. The only question is what in the transmission failed. After 3 days, they still had not opened the case. However, due to the amount of metal found in the fluid, they believe a gear failed. Because the case had no cracks, they said GM's policy was to rebuild the transmission rather replace it with a new one.
What is this NASTY NASTY smell you have encountered? As I have had my 06 equinox in twice for what I think is a transmission or clutch problem. I have had a smell that smells like "burning hair" yes literally for about 4 months now, that is the only way to describe the smell. It happens when I accelerate on highways or when the car shifts to overdrive. (Mainly when I romp on the camp (floor it!!)) or am climbing up a hill. Took it to the dealer ship and they said they cannot smell anything and therefore cannot take the transmission apart or anything else. What do I do?
Well...I wish you good luck with your transmission problem. I had a 1994 G.M.C. Safari once and had a transmission problem from the moment I picked it up at the dealer,(bought it new) G.M. wouldn't change the transmission they just rebuilt it. Ya Right! Had to go to the dealer 3 times to rebuild the transmission and the problem was still there even after the third time. They never wanted to change the transmission, I decided to trade the Van 1½ year latter with only 18,000 milles on it. (still on warranty).
Well I'm reposting this because my other message was deleted since I abbreviated a certain phrase. Any information would be greatly appreciated being that this issue is driving me nuts. Here is my revised post from earlier:
Any experiencing a rattle/vibration in the front drive's side? I had it in the shop today and they said they corrected the problem and it was the fuse box rattling. Needless to say it is still doing it. It doesn't have 2k miles on it yet.
Well I just had it at the Dealership AGAIN for the second day and it can't be resolved. I finally got them to hear the rattling and it goes back tomorrow. I'm frustrated!! :mad:
On my 05 Equniox I just turned in that I leased (I now have the 08 Pontiac Torreant instead), the following things happened to it,some of the following may sound familiar:
GM Warranty Items Covered Prolong starting crank - They replaced fuel pump module - 382 mls Popping noise in the front - They had to replace both front struts - 8,130 mls Steering grinds on sharp turns - They had to replace both sway bars - 15,752 mls Rear growling like noise - They had to replace rear differential - 17,115 mls ABS light came on - They had to replace the right rear speed sensor - 24,236 mls ABS light came on - They had to replace left front speed sensor - 32,115 ABS light came on - They had to replace the left front speed sensor wire harness - 32,815
The whirring noise - They had to replace the right rear bearing.- 32,079 mls
Dont ever lease four years, I happened to get a major discount on the extended warranty with no deductible, thank God. Even though the SUV only had 32,079 mls, it was in the fourth year when the the rear bearing went, so the extended warranty paid for itself and then some.
Brakes 32,100 mls normal these days for brakes to be replaced - I replaced the rotors and brake pads myself, you should never cut the rotors in a lot of these newer cars, they are to thin, and are fairly cheap to replace.
Tires 34,350 mls they were bad had to change them I was getting to many flats and some sliding in the rain.
Dead battery 35,963 not normal (thats a Delco battery for ya) I replaced it with an Interstate Battery.
Can you tell me what kind of popping noice you got from the front end. If so, detail it for me as I am having an issue since 1,800 miles. Does it occur everytime and at all speeds. Thanks so much
Tell me why after having an equinox why oh why you would ever go with the torrent? they are the same damn vehicle! After having one lemon why go for another?
Maybe he wanted to trade a lemon for a lime? That the only thing I can figure out. Exactly what I was thinking to... Why trade-in a Equinox for a Torrent?. One is a Chevrolet the other a Pontiac, that's all. Ahhh! Maybe a little gadget here and there not quite the same but the "platform" and all the mechanical things are identical.
The popping noise came from when you turned the stering wheel all the way or hitting a hard bump, you could really hear it when we pulled into the driveway that had a slight incline to it.
I like the lime thing your probably right. Even though it had it's share of problems none of them were major major, if you know what I mean. My wife loves the SUV ( she has to live with it )and the Torreant lease price was just right $1000 down plus $600 in GM credit points $315. mthly 12,000 mls 36 mths. The Torreant is a lot sharper looking in and out. I know they are the same but the Pontiac for some reason a little tighter than the Equ. ( which I test drove for the heck of it ) and a lot cheaper and by doing some research the Torreant is a little less injury prone.
My self I had leased the 04 Malibu and learned and that I had enough, so I ended up leasing the ( I know ouch ) 08 Honda Accord LX-P alot also had to do with the cost, $1,000 down $265. mthly 12,000 mls. 36 mths and a lot cheaper than the new 08 BU.
I just notice that my light cover (under the back spoiler) where the windshield washer fluid come out is loose. Must have gotten loose by the vibration when closing the tailgate. I'm trying to figure out how the hell can I tight that plastic plate? (the spoiler is o.k.) No screws. There must be a way? Looked in my owners manual and can't find nothing on that. Help!
Since my Nox's warranty is over (2 weeks ago) it's coming apart. Now it's my C.D. I was listening to music and a weird sound like a needle going across a 45 rpm (screaschhh) and then the music stopped. Took out the C.D. put it back in, message "reading c.d." came on, then the C.D. came out with the message "check disc". Tried it with all the C.D.s that I had listen before without any problem, did the same with each and everyone. Then the C.D. player wouldn't even take the C.D.s. Didn't want to push them to far because the C.D. would have been stuck inside the player.
Didn't have any problems for 3 yrs and now like it would knew, everything's breaking. Good timing G.M.
Any ideas? Would like to know if this is simple or if I have to take it in to a dealer and what my estimated costs would be.
My wife had my Nox over the weekend (camping with the Girl Scouts) and brought it back with the ABS and also the TC lights on. Depressing the traction control on/off switch has no effect. 2006 LT1 with 45k miles.
I had the traction control and ABS light come while under warranty, so I went to the dealer. The dealer read the error code and did an "alignment" as directed by the error code. So the answer is in the onboard computer but I don't know if a generic diagnostic meter to recommend.
I sure would like to be able to read/interpret those codes myself. Has anyone purchased and used a diagnostic meter that works well on a Nox?
One month ago my dealer changed my radio in my 05 Equinox because my C.D. player went dead. Now I've got the same exact problem... the C.D. is dead again after only one month. Is there supposed to be a certain warranty since it's only been repaired one month ago or I'll have to pay for a new radio again? If so, for how long does a warranty last on a repair ?
They replaced the radio and (thank God) it was covered. One thing that I didn't know is that when they change the radio on your vehicule (because they change the entire unit) they keep the old one, send it to be repaired and put it on the self to be install in another Equinox when needed. So we should say they installed a rebuilt radio. The dealer said that the only time you have a really "brand new" radio is when the vehicule is "right off the assembly line". If it's replaced along the way... it's a rebuilt. Maybe that's why it's the third radio going in my Nox. Hope it works longer than a month like the second one.
I have an 05' equinox with about 64k miles. It makes a really loud hollowing noise the faster i go the louder it gets. it didn't used to be this bad but its gotten alot worse the last few months. someone said it might be my tires so i got 4 new tires and changed a bent rim. still sounds horrible. does anyone have any idea what it could be?
The same thing happened to my 05 Nox and I'm positive that your problem is a "rear hub bearing". I had a howling sound and it became worst every day. The dealer changed the rear left wheel bearing and no more howling sound, good as new. I thought that the sound came from my tires to because it seemed to increase and decrease with the speed, checked the air pressior, rotated the tires but no it was not the tires... it was a wheel hub bearing doing all that noise. Have your dealer check this.
On my 05 Equniox I just turned in that I leased (I now have the 08 Pontiac Torreant instead), the following things happened to it,some of the following may sound familiar:
GM Warranty Items Covered Prolong starting crank - They replaced fuel pump module - 382 mls Popping noise in the front - They had to replace both front struts - 8,130 mls Steering grinds on sharp turns - They had to replace both sway bars - 15,752 mls Rear growling like noise - They had to replace rear differential - 17,115 mls ABS light came on - They had to replace the right rear speed sensor - 24,236 mls ABS light came on - They had to replace left front speed sensor - 32,115 ABS light came on - They had to replace the left front speed sensor wire harness - 32,815
The whirring noise - They had to replace the right rear bearing.- 32,079 mls
Dont ever lease four years, I happened to get a major discount on the extended warranty with no deductible, thank God. Even though the SUV only had 32,079 mls, it was in the fourth year when the the rear bearing went, so the extended warranty paid for itself and then some.
Brakes 32,100 mls normal these days for brakes to be replaced - I replaced the rotors and brake pads myself, you should never cut the rotors in a lot of these newer cars, they are to thin, and are fairly cheap to replace.
Tires 34,350 mls they were bad had to change them I was getting to many flats and some sliding in the rain.
Dead battery 35,963 not normal (thats a Delco battery for ya) I replaced it with an Interstate Battery.
does it sound like a helicopter? If so I have had the same problem and there was a bulletin on it. Mine was repaired under warrenty and is about to go back again cause the noise is still there.
Well, I think that the Equinox's are def. lemons and I think that we should all get together as owners and have a firm file a class action suit against Chevy. I'm in too small of a state and city to get an attorney involved...crip we don't even have a lemon law attorney here, but I'm in the line up if anyone wants to check into it!
Well.... I guess you picked a bad apple in the basket. I drive a 2005 Equinox, bought it new and the only major repairs (on warranty) was a rear wheel hub bearing replacement and my radio had to be replace because of a electrical short, since then nothing went wrong. I consider mine a "cream puff". I know lots of Equinox owner and there all satisfied. One bad apple in a basket doesn't mean all the others are rotten.
I have a loaded 2005 FWD LT, with leather, we bought in January 05. Currently has 37,000 miles. We bought this as a family cruiser and as a universal work horse. I also have two boys 7 & 13yrs, that ride in it all the time with my wife. She loves the Equinox. We had no problems. We get advertised fuel economy, no problems with fit & finish, interior noise, or drivability problems. Our equinox still has the orignal brakes and tires.
We find the ride and brakes to be excellent.
Knowing that the Equinox is 5 star rated is also a bonus.
I have a friend who has a 2005 Equinox (bought new). She has had a problem with vehicle making a terrible sound when she puts the vehicle in gear. Last week, she put the car in reverse and it lunged forward and cut off. Dealer can't find anything, does anyone have a suggestion?
Warranties usually last 1 yr from date of repair. How do I know? Well, as of just yesterday, I had radio #5 put into my '05 Equinox. #5 in the last 12 months, not 5 since 05. ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS. On top of that they are still trying to figure out why my car decides to sometimes start, and sometimes not. Grrrr! I only have 42k on it, for an almost 4 year old car, that's not bad. :mad:
Oh no! Dear Lord, poor you... 5 radios in 12 months. Ouch! I hope mine doesn't do the same? Mine starts well but sometimes the starter seems to over turn, like the engine has started but the starter is still turning and sometimes it starts normally, it kinds of freaks me out when it happens. Never own a car that was doing that except my Equinox.
Yeah, mine does the same thing. When I bring it in, they can never duplicate the problem, so don't know what to do to fix it. If it didn't look so nice, and have so much interior room, I would dump it.
I had this happen a few times with the use of cheap gas. Low-grade gas can add clogging deposits to fuel injectors. This is a common issue with alot of cars out-there having fuel injectors and computer controlled starters. This is more of a maintenance issue, than an Equinox problem issue. Also, replace your Air Filter every 15,000 miles. Dirty Air Filter can cause starting problems.
Since the Equinox is as hi-tech as any other foreign car, it's "main brain" is the computer. There are alot of sensors from which it receives engine data, safety data, and vehicle data. So with that information, the computer has to then make proper engine control adjustments to start. With the correct & proper mixture it will start right away, unless there are clogged fuel injectors, which will cause poor starting, or "starter run-on".
Cheap low grade gasoline will slowly clog your fuel injectors even with 10,000 miles on a new vehicle. This is true with all newer vehicles, foreign and domestic, due to stricter emission standards. Cheap or bad gas can cause deposits and "totally" clog fuel injectors. (Very Expensive Repair!)
The solution to your starting problems are to use quality gasoline with detergent additives and high quality Fuel Injector cleaner like "Chevron Techron Injector cleaner" at every oil change.
I used one bottle of Chevron Techron Injector, my starting issue was Gone! Now I use it as regular maintenance with oil change.
I always use high test gas, regularly change the air filter. This is an electrical issue, not a fuel issue at least in regards to my car. I have had many other GM vehicles and have NEVER had an issue like this before in any other car. Thanks for the alternate ideas to help problem solve.
I'm not a scientist, I worked part time for an unbranded family gas station for over 25 years until they sold the gas part of it. I did however get a good education, gas is gas no matter who refines it, it's all the same. Now on the other hand each gas company uses different additives, which can make a difference in cleaning properties if anything. Using High Test is a waste if your car doesn't call for it. At the station I worked at over the years, I leased new cars and bought old cars and none of my cars ever had any problems. The main key was that we changed the filters in the gas pumps once a month, and pumped out residual water build up in the tanks once a month. One thing I highly recommend is is to never, never, get gas at a station if you see a tank wagon unloading fuel, that can be the beginning of some of your problems to come. Most important change your fuel filter every 20,000 miles no questions asked and use the Chevron Techron that J Dandy recommended it's the best.
I never, ever put "cheap" gas in my Equinox. It's a 2005 with only 24,000 milles on it and the maintenance is done according to owners manual. It doesn't overstart everytime, it did it maybe 20 times (more or less) in 3 years, but still.... it's not suppose to.
Sorry, didn't mean to offend anyone by using the term "Cheap Gas".
Unfortunately, even the more expensive gas may not have the appropriate additives.
Gasoline quality is an issue few people think about. The formation of harmful deposits can be controlled by adding detergent-dispersants to gasoline, the most common of which is polybutene succinimide. Used with a petroleum carrier oil, detergent-dispersants help keep the intake manifold and ports clean. These chemicals are more effective than the carburetor detergents that were once used in gasoline, but they must be used at concentrations that are three to five times higher than the older carburetor detergents.
At the "High" end of the fuel quality spectrum are "Top Tier" gasolines. These fuels are recognized by the vehicle manufacturers as having the most effective additives and in the highest concentrations. Gasoline retailers must meet the high Top Tier standards with all their grades of gasoline (not just premium) to be designed as a Top Tier supplier. In addition, all the gasoline outlets carrying the brand of approved gasoline must also meet the same standards. Gasoline retailers who are currently on the Top Tier list include Chevron, Chevron-Canada (B.C. only), Texaco (Chevron supplied only), Conoco, Entec Stations, Kwik Trip/Kwik Star, MFA Oil Company, Phillips, QuikTrip, Shell, The Somerset Refinery and 76.
Unfortunately, fuel quality isn't something that is easily policed. Many states have programs in place to monitor fuel quality on either an ongoing basis or "incident specific" basis. Most are run by the state's "Department of Weights and Measures". Even so, the focus of most of these programs is to make sure consumers aren't being cheated at the pump and get the full gallon they pay for. Some programs also check fuels to make sure they do not contain too much alcohol. The specific density of gasoline can be field tested to determine its volatility and alcohol content. But testing octane and the amount and type of additives in the fuel requires expensive laboratory testing. So this type of quality testing is rarely done.
Most gasoline refiners don't want to sell the public bad gas because they obviously want repeat customers. Even so, they also know that deposit formation is a gradual thing that occurs over time. So if they cut back on the additive package to save a few cents per gallon, nobody is the wiser -- and least not right away.
The problem occurs when people buy the lowest priced LAC gas they can find every time they fill their tank. The low level of additives (or low quality additives) in the fuel will not be adequate to keep their engine clean, and sooner or later they'll start to experience driveability problems.
Worse yet, if a bad batch of fuel leaves a refinery and ends up in people's vehicles, it can cause even more serious problems. There have been instances where too much residual sulfur in a bad batch of gasoline has caused a rash of fuel pump failures.
Comments
(Factory service manuals are too expensive and complicated).
The main problem for bringing it in was that it blows cold then will blow warm, then cold, then warm. This repeats the entire time I drive it, and recently there has been a chemical like smell that comes out the vents when I come to a stop at lights.
What model Equinox do you have? I have a problem that has plagued mine since I bought it. I have an LS and when accelerating, when the car is cold, there is a low bang/thump coming from the front drivers side once you get to 15 mph. It only does it once cause when I stop after it happens and then accelerate again up to 15 it does not repeat until the car is once again cold.
Can you help?
At 4,400 miles I had to go to the dealer because I had bad vibrations occurring everytime I touched the brakes. They machined my front rotors because they we're warped. Then at 11,200 miles the same story... machined again and now at 21,800 miles here I go again with the same problem but this time the dealer tells me that they have to install new rotors because they're to thin to be machined. The problem here is that the dealer tells me that I have to pay for the new rotors because its part of the brake system and they're not covered by the warranty because it's of normal usage. My warranty ends in 3 weeks. My point of vue is that having to machine twice the front rotors and then tell me to change them with only 21,800 miles is not normal at all and this should be passed on my warranty.
Dealers are so stupid,,, my front brakes are 20 % used but my rotors have been machined twice and I'm having the same problem?
Rotors go bad before the brakes? Jezzz!
TSB 00-05-22-002F June 2005 outlines in detail the brake warranty service and procedures the dealers should follow per GM. Brake pulsation is to be corrected first by machining the rotors. However, if doing this would cause them to be below minimum thickness, the rotors should be replaced and covered under warranty.
Here is the text from that part of the bulletin. (the entire bulletin is over 10 pages)
BRAKE WARRANTY
Brake Rotors:
• Brake rotor warranty is covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Bumper-to-Bumper warranty. Reference the vehicle’s warranty guide for verification.
• Rotors should be refinished NOT replaced for Customer Pulsation complaints. This condition is a result of rotor thickness variation, usually caused by LRO (wear induced over time and miles) or corrosion (Lot Rot).
• When rotor refinishing, only remove the necessary amount of material from each side of the rotor and note that equal amounts of material do not have to be removed from both sides on any brake system using a floating caliper.
• Rotors should be refinished for severe scoring — depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in).
Important: If the scoring depth is more than 1.5 mm (0.060 in) after the rotor is refinished, it should be replaced.
• Never reuse rotors that measure under the Minimum Thickness specification. In this instance, the rotor should be replaced.
I went back to the dealer yesterday and he is obsessed and he's still telling me that it will NOT pass on my warranty. I'm going back today and the fight is on. I'm not leaving the place until he tells me "it's on warranty" (now that I'm sure it is) and then make sure that the lug nuts are at a correct torque everytime the wheels come off. I'm buying a torque wrench in the weeks to come.
I'll keep you post with the results.
The Dealer should replace your rotors and also check or turn the rear.
Usually car companies have at least two different source suppliers for high volume parts during manufacturing. My Nox might have better rotors .? who knows?
It's a good idea to get yourself a torque wrench. I've owned one for over 25years, and I do re-torques if a shop rotates my tires. Most shops have torque sticks.
I have found my lug nuts torqued 20 ft/lb over spec!
Nox nut spec is 92 ft/lb.
I do most of my own brake work and tire rotations myself.
With 35Kmiles, (original tires, brakes & rotors), our Equinox still stops smooth, and thats with my wife driving, stop and go, town driving with kids.
Awhile back, I had one car with a rotor warp problem where I had the front rotors turned, and after replacing the front rotors, the problem came back. Came to find out that it was the back rotors that were the problem. I also had cars with drums that also needed to be turned.
jd
Today the dealer changed my two front rotors and it did pass on warranty (had to call G.M.'s 1-800) and they called the dealer and the dealer called me back and told me that I had won.
Thank to you guys "sgr5516" and "jim dandy" for your reply. And I bought myself a torque wrench this afternoon and I'll be checking my wheel lug nuts from now on.
Thanks again.
Try this little test.... drive your truck and put it in neutral and let it roll. If it's a bearing problem you'll still hear the noise. What I did to be sure, I put the transmission on neutral, turned the engine off and let the truck roll and I could hear the sound and that sound went lower and lower as the truck lost speed.
Had to go to the dealer 3 times to rebuild the transmission and the problem was still there even after the third time. They never wanted to change the transmission, I decided to trade the Van 1½ year latter with only 18,000 milles on it. (still on warranty).
Any experiencing a rattle/vibration in the front drive's side? I had it in the shop today and they said they corrected the problem and it was the fuse box rattling. Needless to say it is still doing it. It doesn't have 2k miles on it yet.
GM Warranty Items Covered
Prolong starting crank - They replaced fuel pump module - 382 mls
Popping noise in the front - They had to replace both front struts - 8,130 mls
Steering grinds on sharp turns - They had to replace both sway bars - 15,752 mls
Rear growling like noise - They had to replace rear differential - 17,115 mls
ABS light came on - They had to replace the right rear speed sensor - 24,236 mls
ABS light came on - They had to replace left front speed sensor - 32,115
ABS light came on - They had to replace the left front speed sensor wire harness - 32,815
The whirring noise - They had to replace the right rear bearing.- 32,079 mls
Dont ever lease four years, I happened to get a major discount on the extended warranty with no deductible, thank God. Even though the SUV only had 32,079 mls, it was in the fourth year when the the rear bearing went, so the extended warranty paid for itself and then some.
Brakes 32,100 mls normal these days for brakes to be replaced - I replaced the rotors and brake pads myself, you should never cut the rotors in a lot of these newer cars, they are to thin, and are fairly cheap to replace.
Tires 34,350 mls they were bad had to change them I was getting to many flats and some sliding in the rain.
Dead battery 35,963 not normal (thats a Delco battery for ya) I replaced it with an Interstate Battery.
That the only thing I can figure out. Exactly what I was thinking to... Why trade-in a Equinox for a Torrent?.
One is a Chevrolet the other a Pontiac, that's all.
Ahhh! Maybe a little gadget here and there not quite the same but the "platform" and all the mechanical things are identical.
( she has to live with it )and the Torreant lease price was just right $1000 down plus $600 in GM credit points $315. mthly 12,000 mls 36 mths. The Torreant is a lot sharper looking in and out. I know they are the same but the Pontiac for some reason a little tighter than the Equ. ( which I test drove for the heck of it ) and a lot cheaper and by doing some research the Torreant is a little less injury prone.
My self I had leased the 04 Malibu and learned and that I had enough, so I ended up leasing the ( I know ouch ) 08 Honda Accord LX-P alot also had to do with the cost, $1,000 down $265. mthly 12,000 mls. 36 mths and a lot cheaper than the new 08 BU.
Help!
Didn't want to push them to far because the C.D. would have been stuck inside the player.
Didn't have any problems for 3 yrs and now like it would knew, everything's breaking.
Good timing G.M.
My wife had my Nox over the weekend (camping with the Girl Scouts) and brought it back with the ABS and also the TC lights on. Depressing the traction control on/off switch has no effect. 2006 LT1 with 45k miles.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Doug
I sure would like to be able to read/interpret those codes myself. Has anyone purchased and used a diagnostic meter that works well on a Nox?
If so, for how long does a warranty last on a repair ?
The dealer said that the only time you have a really "brand new" radio is when the vehicule is "right off the assembly line". If it's replaced along the way... it's a rebuilt.
Maybe that's why it's the third radio going in my Nox.
Hope it works longer than a month like the second one.
I thought that the sound came from my tires to because it seemed to increase and decrease with the speed, checked the air pressior, rotated the tires but no it was not the tires... it was a wheel hub bearing doing all that noise.
Have your dealer check this.
On my 05 Equniox I just turned in that I leased (I now have the 08 Pontiac Torreant instead), the following things happened to it,some of the following may sound familiar:
GM Warranty Items Covered
Prolong starting crank - They replaced fuel pump module - 382 mls
Popping noise in the front - They had to replace both front struts - 8,130 mls
Steering grinds on sharp turns - They had to replace both sway bars - 15,752 mls
Rear growling like noise - They had to replace rear differential - 17,115 mls
ABS light came on - They had to replace the right rear speed sensor - 24,236 mls
ABS light came on - They had to replace left front speed sensor - 32,115
ABS light came on - They had to replace the left front speed sensor wire harness - 32,815
The whirring noise - They had to replace the right rear bearing.- 32,079 mls
Dont ever lease four years, I happened to get a major discount on the extended warranty with no deductible, thank God. Even though the SUV only had 32,079 mls, it was in the fourth year when the the rear bearing went, so the extended warranty paid for itself and then some.
Brakes 32,100 mls normal these days for brakes to be replaced - I replaced the rotors and brake pads myself, you should never cut the rotors in a lot of these newer cars, they are to thin, and are fairly cheap to replace.
Tires 34,350 mls they were bad had to change them I was getting to many flats and some sliding in the rain.
Dead battery 35,963 not normal (thats a Delco battery for ya) I replaced it with an Interstate Battery.
We bought this as a family cruiser and as a universal work horse.
I also have two boys 7 & 13yrs, that ride in it all the time with my wife. She loves the Equinox.
We had no problems. We get advertised fuel economy, no problems with fit & finish, interior noise, or drivability problems. Our equinox still has the orignal brakes and tires.
We find the ride and brakes to be excellent.
Knowing that the Equinox is 5 star rated is also a bonus.
Since the Equinox is as hi-tech as any other foreign car, it's "main brain" is the computer. There are alot of sensors from which it receives engine data, safety data, and vehicle data.
So with that information, the computer has to then make proper engine control adjustments to start.
With the correct & proper mixture it will start right away, unless there are clogged fuel injectors, which will cause poor starting, or "starter run-on".
Cheap low grade gasoline will slowly clog your fuel injectors even with 10,000 miles on a new vehicle. This is true with all newer vehicles, foreign and domestic, due to stricter emission standards. Cheap or bad gas can cause deposits and "totally" clog fuel injectors. (Very Expensive Repair!)
The solution to your starting problems are to use quality gasoline with detergent additives and high quality Fuel Injector cleaner like "Chevron Techron Injector cleaner" at every oil change.
I used one bottle of Chevron Techron Injector, my starting issue was Gone!
Now I use it as regular maintenance with oil change.
If your problem is bad, try two treatments.
Check out this link for high quality Gasoline Retailers:
-Top Tier Gas- www.toptiergas.com
I use only regular "Top Tier Gas" in my newer vehicles. At my location,little difference in price.
jd
Now on the other hand each gas company uses different additives, which can make a difference in cleaning properties if anything.
Using High Test is a waste if your car doesn't call for it.
At the station I worked at over the years, I leased new cars and bought old cars and none of my cars ever had any problems.
The main key was that we changed the filters in the gas pumps once a month, and pumped out residual water build up in the tanks once a month.
One thing I highly recommend is is to never, never, get gas at a station if you see a tank wagon unloading fuel, that can be the beginning of some of your problems to come.
Most important change your fuel filter every 20,000 miles no questions asked and use the Chevron Techron that J Dandy recommended it's the best.
Unfortunately, even the more expensive gas may not have the appropriate additives.
Gasoline quality is an issue few people think about.
The formation of harmful deposits can be controlled by adding detergent-dispersants to gasoline, the most common of which is polybutene succinimide. Used with a petroleum carrier oil, detergent-dispersants help keep the intake manifold and ports clean. These chemicals are more effective than the carburetor detergents that were once used in gasoline, but they must be used at concentrations that are three to five times higher than the older carburetor detergents.
At the "High" end of the fuel quality spectrum are "Top Tier" gasolines. These fuels are recognized by the vehicle manufacturers as having the most effective additives and in the highest concentrations. Gasoline retailers must meet the high Top Tier standards with all their grades of gasoline (not just premium) to be designed as a Top Tier supplier. In addition, all the gasoline outlets carrying the brand of approved gasoline must also meet the same standards. Gasoline retailers who are currently on the Top Tier list include Chevron, Chevron-Canada (B.C. only), Texaco (Chevron supplied only), Conoco, Entec Stations, Kwik Trip/Kwik Star, MFA Oil Company, Phillips, QuikTrip, Shell, The Somerset Refinery and 76.
Unfortunately, fuel quality isn't something that is easily policed. Many states have programs in place to monitor fuel quality on either an ongoing basis or "incident specific" basis. Most are run by the state's "Department of Weights and Measures". Even so, the focus of most of these programs is to make sure consumers aren't being cheated at the pump and get the full gallon they pay for. Some programs also check fuels to make sure they do not contain too much alcohol. The specific density of gasoline can be field tested to determine its volatility and alcohol content. But testing octane and the amount and type of additives in the fuel requires expensive laboratory testing. So this type of quality testing is rarely done.
Most gasoline refiners don't want to sell the public bad gas because they obviously want repeat customers. Even so, they also know that deposit formation is a gradual thing that occurs over time. So if they cut back on the additive package to save a few cents per gallon, nobody is the wiser -- and least not right away.
The problem occurs when people buy the lowest priced LAC gas they can find every time they fill their tank. The low level of additives (or low quality additives) in the fuel will not be adequate to keep their engine clean, and sooner or later they'll start to experience driveability problems.
Worse yet, if a bad batch of fuel leaves a refinery and ends up in people's vehicles, it can cause even more serious problems. There have been instances where too much residual sulfur in a bad batch of gasoline has caused a rash of fuel pump failures.
Here are some resources:
Gasoline quality
Techron
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
jd