Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous (Archived)

oldfarmer50

ab348 said:

I always shake my head when these "how much to pay" discussions pop up here. Buy what you like and can afford. If you buy a car you can afford but don't like, you've made a mistake. Same if you buy a car that you like but can't afford. How hard can that be?

What’s the option if you can only afford cars you don’t like?

omarman

wfh?

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

10+ is much more likely to get problems that need to be dealt with (even if taken care of, just old age wear). And of course, you need to check what you are buying.

and it makes sense only for certain cars. Domestics that depreciate like a rock in the first couple of year? Good option. Stuff that barely moves in 3 years, isn't.

But what is your at-risk investment? If you invest $8k in a 10 year old car you risk less than if you buy a 3 year old car for $25k. In the end it can be a crap shoot. I just like to have less money on the table.

I’m not saying my way is better, it’s just better for my financial situation. I guess I hate putting capital at risk on a depreciating asset.

of course, you can (well, should) only spend what you can afford. But in terms of getting old/cheap, even if that could be cheaper in total, it also depends what you want in a car, and how you will use it. if it is just a around town spare car, really doesn't matter. But if it is a primary car for commuting, travelling long distances, etc. I want something newer with more features.

That’s why I always end up with either new cars or old cheap ones.

oldfarmer50

qbrozen said:

nyccarguy said:

I’d like some input from the group on these 2 trucks. Really asking for a friend this time:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Ford-F-150-d337?sourceContext=shareListingLink#listing=289767771

https://www.houseofcarsct.com/2011-Ford-F-150-Meriden-CT-Cheshire-Middletown-New-Britain-New-Haven/used_car/REHujDa]saM=

Thanks in advance. The guy is looking to help his son buy a 1st car. The kid is getting his license and has a small landscaping business. I’ve tried to educate him on the benefits of leasing to no avail.

Any reason for those 2? High miles there. Either of these is a better value proposition, IMHO. The '09 looks surprisingly clean.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=289268685

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=287314938

The 2009 has truly outstandingly low mileage and the ad says it has the 4.6L 3 valve (same as the Mustang). Real reliable. It’s priced pretty high but aren’t they all. If it isn’t a rust bucket I’d go for it.

The 2010 has the 5.4L so I’d pass.

qbrozen

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

nyccarguy said:

I’d like some input from the group on these 2 trucks. Really asking for a friend this time:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Ford-F-150-d337?sourceContext=shareListingLink#listing=289767771

https://www.houseofcarsct.com/2011-Ford-F-150-Meriden-CT-Cheshire-Middletown-New-Britain-New-Haven/used_car/REHujDa]saM=

Thanks in advance. The guy is looking to help his son buy a 1st car. The kid is getting his license and has a small landscaping business. I’ve tried to educate him on the benefits of leasing to no avail.

Any reason for those 2? High miles there. Either of these is a better value proposition, IMHO. The '09 looks surprisingly clean.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=289268685

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=287314938

The 2009 has truly outstandingly low mileage and the ad says it has the 4.6L 3 valve (same as the Mustang). Real reliable. It’s priced pretty high but aren’t they all. If it isn’t a rust bucket I’d go for it.

The 2010 has the 5.4L so I’d pass.

How did you determine it has the 5.4?

stickguy

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

10+ is much more likely to get problems that need to be dealt with (even if taken care of, just old age wear). And of course, you need to check what you are buying.

and it makes sense only for certain cars. Domestics that depreciate like a rock in the first couple of year? Good option. Stuff that barely moves in 3 years, isn't.

But what is your at-risk investment? If you invest $8k in a 10 year old car you risk less than if you buy a 3 year old car for $25k. In the end it can be a crap shoot. I just like to have less money on the table.

I’m not saying my way is better, it’s just better for my financial situation. I guess I hate putting capital at risk on a depreciating asset.

of course, you can (well, should) only spend what you can afford. But in terms of getting old/cheap, even if that could be cheaper in total, it also depends what you want in a car, and how you will use it. if it is just a around town spare car, really doesn't matter. But if it is a primary car for commuting, travelling long distances, etc. I want something newer with more features.

That’s why I always end up with either new cars or old cheap ones.

I am back at the point where it makes sense to have one of each. We already have the nice fancy new one, so good on that front for at least another 5-7 years. So the smart move is for me to get something cheap. It just seems so much harder now to find something that is actually worth buying, and also cheap enough to make sense. Which is why those shopping forays often end up with a cheapo lease coming home!

though if there are still obscene (less than $100/mo) deals on lower level EVs when I am ready, that would make a lot of sense since realistically my car might never need to venture more than 50 miles from the house during the 3 year lease term.

stickguy

qbrozen said:

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

nyccarguy said:

I’d like some input from the group on these 2 trucks. Really asking for a friend this time:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Ford-F-150-d337?sourceContext=shareListingLink#listing=289767771

https://www.houseofcarsct.com/2011-Ford-F-150-Meriden-CT-Cheshire-Middletown-New-Britain-New-Haven/used_car/REHujDa]saM=

Thanks in advance. The guy is looking to help his son buy a 1st car. The kid is getting his license and has a small landscaping business. I’ve tried to educate him on the benefits of leasing to no avail.

Any reason for those 2? High miles there. Either of these is a better value proposition, IMHO. The '09 looks surprisingly clean.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=289268685

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=287314938

The 2009 has truly outstandingly low mileage and the ad says it has the 4.6L 3 valve (same as the Mustang). Real reliable. It’s priced pretty high but aren’t they all. If it isn’t a rust bucket I’d go for it.

The 2010 has the 5.4L so I’d pass.

How did you determine it has the 5.4?

this vin decoder says it is. Couldn't find it in the ad.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/vindecoder.php?vin=1FTFW1EVXAFD06589

explorerx4

@stickguy,
If your wife still wants to move to upstate NY, have her check out the forecast for later this week.
Start thinking big 4x4.

stickguy

we hear all about it. Our son lives in Albany and likes to send the weather forecast.

it looks like PA and the Hudson valley is going to get a lot more snow potentially then the more northern part of NY.

good thing about being WFH or retired. Can pretty much bunker down and ride it out!

oldfarmer50

qbrozen said:

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

nyccarguy said:

I’d like some input from the group on these 2 trucks. Really asking for a friend this time:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Ford-F-150-d337?sourceContext=shareListingLink#listing=289767771

https://www.houseofcarsct.com/2011-Ford-F-150-Meriden-CT-Cheshire-Middletown-New-Britain-New-Haven/used_car/REHujDa]saM=

Thanks in advance. The guy is looking to help his son buy a 1st car. The kid is getting his license and has a small landscaping business. I’ve tried to educate him on the benefits of leasing to no avail.

Any reason for those 2? High miles there. Either of these is a better value proposition, IMHO. The '09 looks surprisingly clean.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=289268685

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=11791&showNegotiable=true&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=untrackedWithinSite_false_0&distance=50&sortType=DEAL_SCORE&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d337#listing=287314938

The 2009 has truly outstandingly low mileage and the ad says it has the 4.6L 3 valve (same as the Mustang). Real reliable. It’s priced pretty high but aren’t they all. If it isn’t a rust bucket I’d go for it.

The 2010 has the 5.4L so I’d pass.

How did you determine it has the 5.4?

Well, I’m not sure. In the ad it says:

“ ...alternator,2-ton jack,4-wheel drive,4.6L 3V EFI V8 engine -inc: electronic-shift-on-the fly (ESOF),5.4L 3V EFI V8 FFV engine -...”

So I suppose it could have either.

For what it’s worth, he whose name must not be mentioned, just put up a video discussing some of the problems with the 5.4L and why it’s a good idea to buy a 2010 F-150.

stickguy

you can search it on youtube and find a ton of people complaining about it. Car Wizard really roasted it.

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

10+ is much more likely to get problems that need to be dealt with (even if taken care of, just old age wear). And of course, you need to check what you are buying.

and it makes sense only for certain cars. Domestics that depreciate like a rock in the first couple of year? Good option. Stuff that barely moves in 3 years, isn't.

But what is your at-risk investment? If you invest $8k in a 10 year old car you risk less than if you buy a 3 year old car for $25k. In the end it can be a crap shoot. I just like to have less money on the table.

I’m not saying my way is better, it’s just better for my financial situation. I guess I hate putting capital at risk on a depreciating asset.

of course, you can (well, should) only spend what you can afford. But in terms of getting old/cheap, even if that could be cheaper in total, it also depends what you want in a car, and how you will use it. if it is just a around town spare car, really doesn't matter. But if it is a primary car for commuting, travelling long distances, etc. I want something newer with more features.

That’s why I always end up with either new cars or old cheap ones.

I am back at the point where it makes sense to have one of each. We already have the nice fancy new one, so good on that front for at least another 5-7 years. So the smart move is for me to get something cheap. It just seems so much harder now to find something that is actually worth buying, and also cheap enough to make sense. Which is why those shopping forays often end up with a cheapo lease coming home!

though if there are still obscene (less than $100/mo) deals on lower level EVs when I am ready, that would make a lot of sense since realistically my car might never need to venture more than 50 miles from the house during the 3 year lease term.

If you look at my list you see that I have TWO of each. While I like the security of having a couple of cars with under 20k miles, when I turn the key on my hoopties I feel good every time they start. Each mile makes them a better bargain.

Under $100/month total cost for finance/repair is a tough goal. My van comes in at $24/month for purchase price and repairs for the last 50 months of ownership but it could blow up tomorrow. I get a kick out of tempting fate but most people should probably aim higher.

oldfarmer50

explorerx4 said:

@stickguy,
If your wife still wants to move to upstate NY, have her check out the forecast for later this week.
Start thinking big 4x4.

His chosen future home of Saratoga Springs will probably miss it. YOU on the other hand....it’s been nice knowing you.

stickguy

can't really figure out a true cost per month until you sell and know depreciation. At least if you want to compare it to something like a lease.

the volume plan makes sense. If one hooptie doesn't start, try another one. Hey, Hoovie has made a fortune off of that.

andres3

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

I used to have a 3 year rule for my car (the wife's car was buy new, keep it as long as reasonable).

it worked well, for a while. But a 3 YO car, keep it 3 years, then sell and start over. I think price did not matter, but I would only spend what the old car sold for, + $300/month max for 3 years (unless I had extra cash to put down). After the first couple I was flipping in all cash deals at least.

a pretty good plan IMO. Not spending tons of money, and not living with the same car too long. Plus, never really having an "old" or out of date car.

but in the end, it really did work about the same as leasing repeatedly!

My problem with buying a 3 year old car is that you’re still paying for a lot of depreciation but run the risk that the previous owner abused it. On a much older car you don’t have as much invested in case you get a clunker.

That’s why my used sweet spot is 10+ years old.

That's why I like cars that don't mind abuse, maintenance being the exception, don't want something neglected, but "abuse" doesn't worry me so much with the cars I like. Some would call lack of maintenance "abuse" though.

andres3

ab348 said:

I always shake my head when these "how much to pay" discussions pop up here. Buy what you like and can afford. If you buy a car you can afford but don't like, you've made a mistake. Same if you buy a car that you like but can't afford. How hard can that be?

IF everything you like is unaffordable, does that mean you either walk or ride a bike? Public transportation is pretty lousy in the USA.

explorerx4

@oldfarmer50,
We could get up to 18 inches of snow but that can be dealt with.
I'm sure I'll be pretty sore for a couple of days after moving it all.
Not like I need to go anywhere, unlike in the past.

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

can't really figure out a true cost per month until you sell and know depreciation. At least if you want to compare it to something like a lease.

the volume plan makes sense. If one hooptie doesn't start, try another one. Hey, Hoovie has made a fortune off of that.

OK, on the example I gave I’m assuming total depreciation to zero value from the original purchase price. Buying anything but junk would alter the equation but junk can be fun.

oldfarmer50

andres3 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

I used to have a 3 year rule for my car (the wife's car was buy new, keep it as long as reasonable).

it worked well, for a while. But a 3 YO car, keep it 3 years, then sell and start over. I think price did not matter, but I would only spend what the old car sold for, + $300/month max for 3 years (unless I had extra cash to put down). After the first couple I was flipping in all cash deals at least.

a pretty good plan IMO. Not spending tons of money, and not living with the same car too long. Plus, never really having an "old" or out of date car.

but in the end, it really did work about the same as leasing repeatedly!

My problem with buying a 3 year old car is that you’re still paying for a lot of depreciation but run the risk that the previous owner abused it. On a much older car you don’t have as much invested in case you get a clunker.

That’s why my used sweet spot is 10+ years old.

That's why I like cars that don't mind abuse, maintenance being the exception, don't want something neglected, but "abuse" doesn't worry me so much with the cars I like. Some would call lack of maintenance "abuse" though.

Yeah, there’s degrees of abuse. Driving a car hard might not be abuse to some but never changing the oil because “this brand runs forever” certainly is.

qbrozen

Speaking of never changing oil... I went to change it in the John Deere. Wow. That was quite the sight. Took out the plug and... nothing. Stuck a screwdriver up there and got a drip. Moved it around a bit to dig through the gunk and then it started to slowly flow out. It came out in lumps. Lol. I threw 3 fresh quarts on top and let those push out the bad stuff. Guess that’s what happens when 1. You never change it and 2. An engine has no filter.

corvette

I think I'm two years in on the factory fill on my cheap Bolens push mower. No oil consumption and it still looks normal. Given that the first mower I bought had regular oil changes and only lasted four years, I'm considering it a lifetime fill!

corvette

I like Wizard's latest video. This Jeep isn't for me, but it's extremely well preserved, and also a great history lesson if (like me) you weren't that familiar with AMC.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og7Ycq2vmoE

cdnpinhead

qbrozen said:

Oh I certainly know why cars get heavier. I’m complaining about the fact that most manufacturers put little to no effort in making them lighter.

Making things lighter is nearly always expensive, especially in aerospace, but in cars also. It's a lot like healthful food -- the egg mcmuffin costs much more than the sausage biscuit.

stickguy

I just started that Jeep episode. I still have a fondness for AMC, having owned 2 back in my younger (college) days. A Gremlin and a Hornet. Both mid-70s (bumper vintage) units. Hornet was the 3 door hatch, so even kinda cool! Even on that Jeep I can still recognize a lot of the parts.

qbrozen

cdnpinhead said:

qbrozen said:

Oh I certainly know why cars get heavier. I’m complaining about the fact that most manufacturers put little to no effort in making them lighter.

Making things lighter is nearly always expensive, especially in aerospace, but in cars also. It's a lot like healthful food -- the egg mcmuffin costs much more than the sausage biscuit.

Yes, but they spend millions trying to develop a more efficient injector. It is likely because they know, in the end, it is something they can use across the lineup, across 500k cars, and will cost pennies per vehicle. I think they fail to ever truly realize the R&D cost. Cutting large weight quickly, such as fabricating your truck bed out of aluminum, cost next to nothing up front but hundreds of dollars per vehicle and across only those that use that bed. So they see that per vehicle cost and scoff, but they’d save millions in up-front R&D.

I dunno, just my opinionated rant.

Sandman6472

Drove a few new 2021 Audi A5's today from our PDI area in Ft. Lauderdale up to the Audi dealer in West Palm Beach. Both drove very nicely but definitely prefer the size of our A3 to be honest. I'd get a CPO unit but part of me wants another hatchback next time. But an A3 for the right price in a decent color inside & out could work also. I will need to check out if our Audi store has any demos they want to sell once I get ready to purchase.
Saw the new 2021 Kia Seltos up close today and really do like it except that it seems awfully big, like a real SUV. But it's on my short list as of now. I'm guessing I could live with a demo much easier than I could with a CPO unit. But nothing tickles m fancy yet enough to swap out of my Golf. The only other hatch I do like is the Toyota Corolla hatchback. Reliability is dead on and the size is perfect. Need to drive one and really see as I need some behind the wheel time to make a informed decision.

stickguy

if you like the VW/Audi and want a hatch, how about a nice Q3? 176.6" so not too long.

this one is attractive.

https://www.auditurnersville.com/new/Audi/2021-Audi-Q3-365e4cb80a0e0ae73f7cfa13cad5c58c.htm

corvette

cdnpinhead said:

qbrozen said:

Oh I certainly know why cars get heavier. I’m complaining about the fact that most manufacturers put little to no effort in making them lighter.

Making things lighter is nearly always expensive, especially in aerospace, but in cars also. It's a lot like healthful food -- the egg mcmuffin costs much more than the sausage biscuit.

I prefer the Sausage Egg McMuffin - you get all the greasiness of the sausage, while at the same time, feeling fancy because you're eating it on an English muffin.

tifighter

I've got a rental Pathfinder at the moment. Blue, loaded Platinum model. Ugh is it awful. Visibility is ridiculous, buttons are vomited all over the dash in random groupings (audio controls are foot away from the screen, heated steering wheel button is at your knee, etc) and the infotainment is the same as the Leaf we had in 2014. Oh and the steering, so sad. I suppose the 23mpg it is showing is pretty solid for it's size, but to benefit from that, you'd actually have to drive it.

Okay, back to the breakfast sandwich discussion.

roadburner

corvette said:

I think I'm two years in on the factory fill on my cheap Bolens push mower. No oil consumption and it still looks normal. Given that the first mower I bought had regular oil changes and only lasted four years, I'm considering it a lifetime fill!

I guess I really AM OCD- I run synthetic oil in both of my ZTR mowers.

roadburner

I normally post my Internet Idjit award on FB, often because the recipient hails from Edmunds. In this case the idjit is from FB. He posted on a Stinger page that he had traded his Stinger GT for a new Silverado because he "needed" a truck. I asked about the particular "need" and his response was, "I bought a house."

Michaell

corvette said:

cdnpinhead said:

qbrozen said:

Oh I certainly know why cars get heavier. I’m complaining about the fact that most manufacturers put little to no effort in making them lighter.

Making things lighter is nearly always expensive, especially in aerospace, but in cars also. It's a lot like healthful food -- the egg mcmuffin costs much more than the sausage biscuit.

I prefer the Sausage Egg McMuffin - you get all the greasiness of the sausage, while at the same time, feeling fancy because you're eating it on an English muffin.

That’s my breakfast go-to, as well.

corvette

roadburner said:

corvette said:

I think I'm two years in on the factory fill on my cheap Bolens push mower. No oil consumption and it still looks normal. Given that the first mower I bought had regular oil changes and only lasted four years, I'm considering it a lifetime fill!

I guess I really AM OCD- I run synthetic oil in both of my ZTR mowers.

Fair enough! In this instance, if I'm wrong, the worst that can happen is that I'm out about $200 for a new push mower. I'd take better care of it if it were a more expensive rider. When I had a larger lot to mow and had a rider, I bought a very much oversized and superior oil filter for it, although I can't remember whether I used synthetic.

corvette

tifighter said:

I've got a rental Pathfinder at the moment. Blue, loaded Platinum model. Ugh is it awful. Visibility is ridiculous, buttons are vomited all over the dash in random groupings (audio controls are foot away from the screen, heated steering wheel button is at your knee, etc) and the infotainment is the same as the Leaf we had in 2014. Oh and the steering, so sad. I suppose the 23mpg it is showing is pretty solid for it's size, but to benefit from that, you'd actually have to drive it.

Okay, back to the breakfast sandwich discussion.

The only car I've had with a heated steering wheel was my 2012 Murano, and the button was next to my knee, so I have no context for where they are supposed to go. I do remember the seats took a while to warm up, but the wheel would get scalding hot within about a minute. I think 22 MPG was the most I ever got on a tank, and 20 MPG or below was common.

au1994

tifighter said:

I've got a rental Pathfinder at the moment. Blue, loaded Platinum model. Ugh is it awful. Visibility is ridiculous, buttons are vomited all over the dash in random groupings (audio controls are foot away from the screen, heated steering wheel button is at your knee, etc) and the infotainment is the same as the Leaf we had in 2014. Oh and the steering, so sad. I suppose the 23mpg it is showing is pretty solid for it's size, but to benefit from that, you'd actually have to drive it.

Okay, back to the breakfast sandwich discussion.

I’ll echo your thoughts. We had a newish one as an Uber pre COVID and the outside was fine I thought, pretty typical CUV styling. We had a crowd so I sat up front and man, the dash was like a flashback to the 90s. Silver with orange backlighting and lots and lots of buttons and knobs.

Seemed to drive decently well. We got out on the highway and it was smooth, didn’t seem to struggle with power and was decently quiet.

ab348

The ATS has the button for the heated steering wheel on the wheel, near the cruise control buttons.

venture

Here's the heated wheel switch for the Subaru's.

oldfarmer50

qbrozen said:

Speaking of never changing oil... I went to change it in the John Deere. Wow. That was quite the sight. Took out the plug and... nothing. Stuck a screwdriver up there and got a drip. Moved it around a bit to dig through the gunk and then it started to slowly flow out. It came out in lumps. Lol. I threw 3 fresh quarts on top and let those push out the bad stuff. Guess that’s what happens when 1. You never change it and 2. An engine has no filter.

There are some YouTube video horror stories showcasing cars which have gone extreme miles without an oil change. Oil comes out like honey and they have to scrape the sludge out everywhere. That, and driving a car hard are what I worry about when buying a used car. In one respect, a much older car probably wouldn’t still be running 10 years down the road if it was treated like this:

https://youtu.be/GjwNoLyr3SM

oldfarmer50

corvette said:

I think I'm two years in on the factory fill on my cheap Bolens push mower. No oil consumption and it still looks normal. Given that the first mower I bought had regular oil changes and only lasted four years, I'm considering it a lifetime fill!

My previous lawn tractors had no pollution controls and the oil had to be changed every 25 hours of running time. It was really black when it came out. A few years ago I bought a cheap replacement and it came with some pollution gizmo on top of the motor. I was worried it would cause the same performance problems as the 1970s car equivalents but to my surprise the thing always starts and the oil can go the whole season.

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

I just started that Jeep episode. I still have a fondness for AMC, having owned 2 back in my younger (college) days. A Gremlin and a Hornet. Both mid-70s (bumper vintage) units. Hornet was the 3 door hatch, so even kinda cool! Even on that Jeep I can still recognize a lot of the parts.

My older brother owned a Gremlin and later a Javelin. He ruined the Gremlin by never changing the oil and the Javelin got stolen, vandalized and dumped in the river. The insurance paid it off and even gave him the car back. My younger brother then drove it for about a year after even though it smelled like a swamp and had flies buzzing around inside. It was a 3 speed stick so it was fun to drive at least until it went swimming.

tjc78

Heated steering wheel button on the Volvo’s are with the heated seats on the main screen. You press the button and a sub menu pops up for either the seat or wheel.

Our Enclaves had them right near the cruise buttons on the wheel.

nyccarguy

Doug DeMuro posted an extremely positive video on the Ford (Mustang) Mach - E.

ab348

The ATS has the button for the heated steering wheel on the wheel, near the cruise control buttons.

qbrozen

I am going to have to remember to change the oil in my ZTM come spring.

On another maintenance note, I noticed this morn that the X2s front tires are in REALLY bad shape while the rears look like new. Huh..I guess getting them rotated maybe didn’t actually take place? I’ll have to do it my damned self, as usual. Can’t trust anybody.

laurasdada

Heated wheel (virtual) button is on the home screen of the Jag's infotainment screen. So, one touch. Unlike heated seats, where you have to touch seat icons, bringing up a second screen where you can choose one of the three heat level (Very, Nuclear and Liar Liar).
On the redesigned '16 XF, button moved to steering wheel.

tjc78

laurasdada said:

Heated wheel (virtual) button is on the home screen of the Jag's infotainment screen. So, one touch. Unlike heated seats, where you have to touch seat icons, bringing up a second screen where you can choose one of the three heat level (Very, Nuclear and Liar Liar).
On the redesigned '16 XF, button moved to steering wheel.

I honestly don’t know what I prefer... hard buttons everywhere or having all virtual buttons on the touchscreen. At the end of the day as long as you learn it and can pull up things quickly that is all that matters.

laurasdada

Yes, I've become quite accustomed to the much maligned Jag infotainment system. Haven't really had any issues with it, but if I had my druthers, I prefer logically laid out buttons (or toggles! Love toggles!). I actually like the cascade of buttons on the Porsche Macan console, if I get a high $ litany of required maintenance work (might need front brakes, at least) from today's oil change/tire rotation/inspection on the XF, the Macan (used) is on my list of potentially mad, end of the year car shopping.
I almost pulled the trigger on a loaded 2020 XF S, $17k consumer cash plus $8k off MSRP, so a real good starting point for negotiations. I figured it would remain on the dealer lot post today's inspection review. I was wrong.
I remain the anti-breld.

breld

nyccarguy said:

Doug DeMuro posted an extremely positive video on the Ford (Mustang) Mach - E.

I am actually watching that right now. Throttle House and Straight Pipes also posted their reviews.

After seeing it in the flesh last week, I will say that I like it a lot (but I’m also a sucker for new designs). It’s a nice size, competitive with that compact SUV market. The sloped hatch of course intrudes into the cargo room, but that’s becoming more and more common with modern design. The interior was nice looking - it has the obligatory large touchscreen, but with some knobs and buttons thrown in there.

Unlike the Leaf and Bolt, and Kia/Hyundai offerings, it’s certainly trying to appeal to the buyers’ emotional aside at least as much as their practical side.

If they had simply borrowed the design elements of the Mustang for the exterior, but refrained from using the name - would that have been less offensive?

28firefighter

The Mach-E is on my list for the future, but I want (1) the initial hype to wear off and standard Ford rebates to come into play, and (2) would like first/second year issues worked out. I find it way more compelling than the VW ID4.

ab348

I suspect the Mustang name will go away sooner or later on this if the traditional Mustang remains in production. Just the Mach-E name alone isn't a bad choice.