Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous (Archived)

kyfdx

corvette said:

April Fool’s or no?

https://www.bloomberg.com/press-releases/2021-04-01/carmax-to-acquire-remaining-stake-in-edmunds

No, it's real. They took a 25% stake in January of last year.

oldfarmer50

Kirstie_H said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

This must be the promised format tweaks. Going to take some getting used to!

I’m having a hard time switching between boards. There’s no place any more where I can check my latest comments. Oh well, I was never good with change. I long for the old days where all forums were in one big list.

Do you mean by going to your profile, and clicking on your recent comments?

Yeah but it’s ok, I found a workaround.

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

This must be the promised format tweaks. Going to take some getting used to!

I’m having a hard time switching between boards. There’s no place any more where I can check my latest comments. Oh well, I was never good with change. I long for the old days where all forums were in one big list.

The easiest way to me is just bookmarking the boards you follow. Then just click on “my bookmarks” over in the quick links menu, and you see the list, and it tells you how many new comments in each one.

Yes, I had bookmarks but for some reason that didn’t carry over. When I finally found a forums list I just gold starred the ones I follow and problem solved.

explorerx4

I usually just click on Participated.

xwesx

Wow. It is nice to know there are so many converging avenues to access the threads we visit!

corvette

I tried to watch some of Rural Vermonter's videos, but the quality of many of his repairs hurts my brain. Not completely removing rust before applying Bondo, not properly sanding the Bondo so it's lumpy, leaving tape lines in the middle of a fully exposed exterior panel and sometimes painting over decals and stickers, etc... If those vehicles stay in Vermont, I'd give a lot of those repairs about a year before the rust comes back. I understand he's not trying to make them look showroom new, but to me, they aren't even up to the level of a "functional repair."

andres3

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

It's picture day.

TTS OEM Brakes perfectly positioned between spokes.

Why did you switch from the OEM wheels to these?

4 Main Reasons:
1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.
3) 19" tires are cheaper than 20" tires; all other things being equal.
4) I prefer the look of the OZ's to the OEM wheels, but for many that's subjective.

stickguy

corvette said:

I tried to watch some of Rural Vermonter's videos, but the quality of many of his repairs hurts my brain. Not completely removing rust before applying Bondo, not properly sanding the Bondo so it's lumpy, leaving tape lines in the middle of a fully exposed exterior panel and sometimes painting over decals and stickers, etc... If those vehicles stay in Vermont, I'd give a lot of those repairs about a year before the rust comes back. I understand he's not trying to make them look showroom new, but to me, they aren't even up to the level of a "functional repair."

that is an interesting channel. From what I gather, Vermont has strict inspection rules concerning rust through. So some of the trucks he gets are unsalable as they are, so he is just doing a cheesy job to get through inspection so they can be sold on the cheap.

That, and Vermont gets too much snow and uses way too much salt!

andres3

laurasdada said:

That Mystic Blue is so much more what I had in my mind when I wanted a blue car next.

More A7/Jag observations:
Jag definitely takes the steering feel and handling award; ride is equal between the two imo. Ergonomic goof in the A7, steering wheel obscures turn signal indicators on the dash, unless I raise the wheel a little too far up for comfort. But, not a biggie.

Interesting earlier, i depleted the battery while driving. Parked the car for a couple of hours, when I started it, 4 miles of juice. I wouldn't think regen braking would juice the battery like that? Or the OBC recalibrated after I shut her down? Any theories/experience from the Volt folks (or other PHEV experience)? And, I got the 4 miles, but have run the rest of the day on dead dinosaurs. Used 1/8 tank so far. Now charging in the garage.

It goes without saying, so I'll say it, the Audi MMI system is well superior to the Jag. The graphics on all three large screens are just beautiful. The headlights, especially on high beams, are nuclear. But, the lady giving me nav directions has to quiet down a bit; I've gone through every menu, no luck with that. In the Jag, it was an easy specific setting.

And, still prefer the hockey puck, but getting used to the e-shifter.

I've named her Battlestar Galactica.

While the nav lady speaks to you, turn the volume knob at the exact same time. That should do the trick (up or down as you please). If it doesn't work with one volume control, try another. In an Audi, there's usually 3 ways to change the volume.

This works with blue tooth/cell phone audio volume too.

oldfarmer50

corvette said:

I tried to watch some of Rural Vermonter's videos, but the quality of many of his repairs hurts my brain. Not completely removing rust before applying Bondo, not properly sanding the Bondo so it's lumpy, leaving tape lines in the middle of a fully exposed exterior panel and sometimes painting over decals and stickers, etc... If those vehicles stay in Vermont, I'd give a lot of those repairs about a year before the rust comes back. I understand he's not trying to make them look showroom new, but to me, they aren't even up to the level of a "functional repair."

I saw one or two of those quick and dirty repairs and indeed he’s just doing the bare minimum to pass inspection, perhaps being a little bit passive aggressive that the state makes him do it at all. Perhaps testing to see how they shake their heads as they begrudgingly slap the inspection sticker on.

If I remember, the trucks he repairs are all $500 junkers anyway. By the time the slap dash Bondo falls off the frame will probably break in two.

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

corvette said:

I tried to watch some of Rural Vermonter's videos, but the quality of many of his repairs hurts my brain. Not completely removing rust before applying Bondo, not properly sanding the Bondo so it's lumpy, leaving tape lines in the middle of a fully exposed exterior panel and sometimes painting over decals and stickers, etc... If those vehicles stay in Vermont, I'd give a lot of those repairs about a year before the rust comes back. I understand he's not trying to make them look showroom new, but to me, they aren't even up to the level of a "functional repair."

that is an interesting channel. From what I gather, Vermont has strict inspection rules concerning rust through. So some of the trucks he gets are unsalable as they are, so he is just doing a cheesy job to get through inspection so they can be sold on the cheap.

That, and Vermont gets too much snow and uses way too much salt!

VT, NH and I think MA all have no rust through restrictions. Strangely, over regulated NY doesn’t or else I’d be doing a lot more Bondo slapping myself. You can have see-through bodies as long as the frame is intact. I’ve driven cars until the K frame rusted off.

Vermont has gone to low or no salt policies on some of their roads which makes it interesting driving around at night in a snow storm.

Michaell

member needs advice on a Jeep

qbrozen

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

andres3

breld said:

I’m not entirely sure on the CX-5 - I actually saved it for last that day, after the RDX, CR-V and Tiguan. I thought he would find it a more refined option, but he just wasn’t impressed, and I have to admit it didn’t set itself apart from the other test drives.

This was the n/a 4 cylinder, as the turbo models are pricey, so it may have been a different story with the turbo option.

4-banger with a CVT and NO TURBO sounds like purgatory to me. In heaven there are no CVT's.

stickguy

the Mazda has a normal AT. One if it's big selling points. It actually drives very nice.

corvette

If one wants a CVT in something that size, there is always the Rogue (for now--it sounds like Nissan is going back to conventional automatics in their mainstream cars and CUVs, beginning with the new Pathfinder).

andres3

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

stickguy

245/35s probably wouldn't last a week around here, especially this time of year. this one just happened to make the news, but there are many, many more like it all over the place.

https://www.newsbreak.com/news/2196079350419/pothole-problem-fixed-on-kelly-drive-after-action-news-helps-stranded-drivers-report-issue

qbrozen

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

andres3

stickguy said:

explorerx4 said:

Didn't the allroad used to be based on the A6?

The old ones were. Maybe I’m wrong, I thought this generation was on the 4. But admittedly I never really looked at them closely or considered getting one.

I’d go with a nice V60 instead.

The Allroad is based on the A4. It's lifted and cladded and "SUV-like" so they can charge loads of $$$ more than they did for an A4 Avant, which is German for A4 Wagon. Didn't seem to work so great though, most opted for the Q5 or SQ5.

They have released the A6 Allroad recently, but that costs loads of $$$ more, and is advertised using the profits from wagon sales in the US, which is to say not advertised at all. Go RS6 for the fun wagon.
If they A6 Allroad comes with the 3.0 drivetrain, that would interest me at a lower price.

andres3

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

Interesting.... on the All Track I sold to Carvana, I did get a better quote by putting the OEM's back on; I think it was around $500 though, not well into the 4-figures. However, it was totally worth it as I was able to sell the aftermarket wheels for about $250 where as the OEM wheels would have been a very hard sell for even half that.

andres3

greg128 said:

ronsteve said:

au1994 said:

Unbelievable. Vroom just hit me with $900 less than I paid for the Land Cruiser in September. I’ve got about $600 in shipping and $1k in various maintenance and up keep but dang, thats solid.

It really makes you wonder how much the used car market is about to inflate. The trade-side numbers are super strong lately. (can you tell I'm looking for an excuse to go check out that allroad?)

I bought a 2018 Buick Lacrosse Premium for my wife with 14,000 miles in July 2019 from Carvana and paid $24k. I just checked the site and there is a 2018 with 37,000 miles "coming soon" already sold with "purchase pending" for $22,590. I think I might be able to sell it back to them for close to what I paid as it only has 21k miles. That is after almost 2 years. I would say the used car market is red hot.

Does this mean buying my S4 back in early November was a good call?

Didn't put that many miles on it since I was unemployed till just this last week. Just completed my first week at a new job. Economy appears to be booming and stimulus-ified. Has about the exact same commute as my old job, so I have a pretty good commute again, so this low 34,000 mile prized specimen of a 2015 S4 will soon be driven the way it was meant to be driven, and be high-mileage soon enough.
I pay attention to gas prices but not too closely to my gas mileage. I'd rather measure my smiles per gallon more. No issues so far other than the tires that look like they were stored in 100+ temperatures or below 0 temperatures only, and nothing in between. Probably for my own peace of mind I'll get new tires at the end of the Summer. I don't mind sending stimulus money to good tire manufacturers.

andres3

xwesx said:

au1994 said:

I did windows about 8 years ago. On the good, better, best scale I went with better. After being home for the last year, they are drafty and won’t last another 5 for sure.

Anyone thats done it knows thats a bear of an expense.

Yeah, no doubt. I bought all the windows for my place back in 2009, at a cost of just over $10,000. Ours are triple-pane low-E units. We put very few windows in our house, and instead chose to strategically locate them to maximize the overall natural light infiltration. It worked well, because the only space in the house that doesn't receive natural light is the basement.

We installed them all ourselves, including the monster 5'x7' units in the front of the house (which probably weighed over 200 pounds each). Thankfully, nearly twelve years later, they are all still perfect, and I hope to get a lot more years out of them because I really don't want to do this again (and I hate calling the man!).

Did you get 1/8" glass at triple pane? I've wondered if I'd rather go to 1/4" glass double paned. That's 1/2" total glass with an air/gas/vacuum cushion in between. For San Diego, double paned at 1/8" is plenty.

andres3

breld said:

I'm curious to see what Carvana lists my Supra at after paying me $49k for it. It's been two weeks and I've checked each day, but nothing yet.

Comparable ones are listed for $49-51k, so still not sure why they paid what they did, but fine with me.

My money is on the Carvana manager bonusing himself a Supra and he has the keys right now burning rubber.

andres3

sda said:

I like the Passport as well. They still are quite roomy and perhaps a little easier to navigate in tight quarters. It doesn't hurt that they have a conservative sporty look to them.

Passport was my biggest competitor to the Tiguan my wife got. However, once my wife went to VW I haven't been able to get her to SERIOUSLY consider a Honda again. I think she just likes the driving feel of German-engineering, as apparently @breld 's son did. It also has a more premium air to the interior as well. If it was me, I'd have more seriously considered the Passport if Honda was wheeling and dealing!

corvette

@andres3 congrats on the new job!

qbrozen

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

Interesting.... on the All Track I sold to Carvana, I did get a better quote by putting the OEM's back on; I think it was around $500 though, not well into the 4-figures. However, it was totally worth it as I was able to sell the aftermarket wheels for about $250 where as the OEM wheels would have been a very hard sell for even half that.

Selling to a dealer would likely be a different scenario, as you experienced. TTRS is probably going to see a bigger value hit than a station wagon, but still not as big of a hit as a private sale might where the buyer has no recourse other than buy new OEM wheels, if that is what they desire.

oldfarmer50

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

That’s an interesting thought. So you’re saying that something as simple as wheels would reduce resale value?

I have a different exhaust on the Mustang and a mild tune w CAI from Ford Performance (didn’t affect warranty)

Are you saying that such minor stuff would impact the price at sales time?

ab348

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

I have a different exhaust on the Mustang and a mild tune w CAI from Ford Performance (didn’t affect warranty)

Are you saying that such minor stuff would impact the price at sales time?

I think it all depends on the buyer and the vehicle. I'm not a fan of loud exhausts for example, so such a thing would affect my offer. There is a newish Dodge Ram pickup in the neighborhood and I can hear it every time it drives past. The owner obvs installed that shortly after getting the truck. I would need to put something quieter on it if it was for sale so that would affect my offer. Others may like it though.

oldfarmer50

ab348 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

I have a different exhaust on the Mustang and a mild tune w CAI from Ford Performance (didn’t affect warranty)

Are you saying that such minor stuff would impact the price at sales time?

I think it all depends on the buyer and the vehicle. I'm not a fan of loud exhausts for example, so such a thing would affect my offer. There is a newish Dodge Ram pickup in the neighborhood and I can hear it every time it drives past. The owner obvs installed that shortly after getting the truck. I would need to put something quieter on it if it was for sale so that would affect my offer. Others may like it though.

I was thinking more of a sale to a dealer or Carvana. My exhaust is a pretty mild upgrade, certainly not the screaming stuff that’s available. Under 2000 rpm you can barely tell the difference. I have the original which could be reinstalled in about 30 minutes. The tuning would require a throttle body swap and reinstallation of the factory tune and air box but still only an hour at any dealer. I saved all the old parts. But I can’t imagine anyone would want to return to the wimpy OEM sound and less power.

28firefighter

This seems worthy of a test drive
https://www.carmax.com/car/20113520

andres3

oldfarmer50 said:

ab348 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

I have a different exhaust on the Mustang and a mild tune w CAI from Ford Performance (didn’t affect warranty)

Are you saying that such minor stuff would impact the price at sales time?

I think it all depends on the buyer and the vehicle. I'm not a fan of loud exhausts for example, so such a thing would affect my offer. There is a newish Dodge Ram pickup in the neighborhood and I can hear it every time it drives past. The owner obvs installed that shortly after getting the truck. I would need to put something quieter on it if it was for sale so that would affect my offer. Others may like it though.

I was thinking more of a sale to a dealer or Carvana. My exhaust is a pretty mild upgrade, certainly not the screaming stuff that’s available. Under 2000 rpm you can barely tell the difference. I have the original which could be reinstalled in about 30 minutes. The tuning would require a throttle body swap and reinstallation of the factory tune and air box but still only an hour at any dealer. I saved all the old parts. But I can’t imagine anyone would want to return to the wimpy OEM sound and less power.

Do you think the exhaust mod is noticeable to the "stiffs" working at Carmax? You could probably get away with saying nothing.

Sandman6472

I like it! Sure, it'll take some getting used to but, I really like it! A bit industrial but I can live with that. I'm not a lover of change by any means but, think in time, we'll all like it.
Happy Passover and Happy Easter to all of those that celebrate!

Sandman6472

Found a small oil leak in the garage the other day. On the left front of the Golf. Cleaned it up and it's not come back yet so canceled the appointment at the mechanic. Will check the next few days to see if it comes back. Guessing it must've been a fluke but will monitor the situation.
Getting the sprinkler system fixed tomorrow. Seems the pump isn't working properly so a replacement is coming. Then we'll see what else is going on. It's been off basically since 2018 due to us having plenty of rainfall. Before that, we were on drought scheduling and seems we are again as it's been quite dry down here. We're an even address so it's Wednesday/Sunday. While they're here, having them check the whole system plus burying a longish pvc pipe that exposed now. They said the timer is fine, so a savings there. There goes a chunk of the stimulus money but well worth it.

qbrozen

oldfarmer50 said:

ab348 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

qbrozen said:

andres3 said:

1) They reduce un-sprung weight at each corner by probably over 10 pounds. Improves performance in every which way.
2) The 20" OEM wheels I got made the short wheel-based car ride a bit rigid. 19" OZ wheels are not only lighter but smaller. It actually improved the ride noticeably to go from 30 series rubber to 35 series sidewall by making the wheel a smaller diameter. It enhances the effect of the magnetic suspension going to "comfort" from "dynamic" while not losing out on any performance in dynamic either.

Ah, OK. Didn't realize you went smaller.
What section width are you able to run? Any wider than stock?

I would suggest, if at all possible, you hang on to the stock wheels. Having them will increase the value at sale time.

They (OZ aftermarket) are 19"x9" wheels and the stock OEM upgrades were 20x9". I think the stock non-upgraded OEM wheels were also 19x9", but possibly 19x8.5 knowing Audi. I do know the car comes with 255/30R20 summer rubber. If you get the standard OEM's they jip you with 245/35/19's though. The prior generation TTRS' ran 255/35R19 and I think I prefer that section for the car. It's also a common size with a wide range of tire competition to choose from (my S4 uses that size too) . However, on the S4 I plan on getting long lasting all-season Pilot Sport A/S 4's that just came out.

I've run 255/35R19 before, and that works perfectly for the car and wheel section. I think you could get away with 265's, and I've seen a newer TTRS running that on the track. I think it might be overkill for the car though. Right now I'm running 245's because that's the only 19" size Yokohama makes in their splendid new A052 model 200 treadwear summer tire. They work as good as 255 section Michelin Cup 2's. However, they do wear quickly as I can see from one track weekend. I think the TTS could use a camber adjustment up front to wear the outside shoulder a bit less during hard use. I know someone that bought a "kit" made by 0304 that gives a mild adjustment to camber and they liked the results for improved turn-in response in handling. Their tires also appeared to be more evenly worn after some track sessions.

I still have the original 20" OEM wheels, but how much do you think they could be worth on the upper end for resale? Anyone into performance will love these fully forged OZ's. I ask because I'm thinking of selling them (the OEM wheels), but only if I can get a value that would make up for any potential hit I'd take on the back end for resale.

I could totally be wrong here, but this is my thinking: let’s say replacement OEM wheels run $2500 at the dealer. That is how much of a hit it could take at resale. Selling them used, let’s say maybe you score $1500. Meanwhile you paid (just all round hypothetical numbers) $2k for the OZs. That’s $500 difference for the swap plus $2500 potential resale hit for a$3k total. On the other hand, you save the old ones, but them back on for resale, so no hit there, and resell your OZs for $1200. That’s an overall $800 loss. Pretty big difference.

Of course, you could totally luck out and find a buyer who loves the new ones and doesn’t care, thereby negating the loss and bringing you back to just a $500 cost. Personally, I wouldn’t gamble $2200 in hopes of saving $300 down the road.

This all stems from my old S70 T5. I did exactly as you propose. Later, at selling time, WOW did I get a lot of grief for not having those OEMs. Had to wait around for the buyer who liked my wheel choice.

I have a different exhaust on the Mustang and a mild tune w CAI from Ford Performance (didn’t affect warranty)

Are you saying that such minor stuff would impact the price at sales time?

I think it all depends on the buyer and the vehicle. I'm not a fan of loud exhausts for example, so such a thing would affect my offer. There is a newish Dodge Ram pickup in the neighborhood and I can hear it every time it drives past. The owner obvs installed that shortly after getting the truck. I would need to put something quieter on it if it was for sale so that would affect my offer. Others may like it though.

I was thinking more of a sale to a dealer or Carvana. My exhaust is a pretty mild upgrade, certainly not the screaming stuff that’s available. Under 2000 rpm you can barely tell the difference. I have the original which could be reinstalled in about 30 minutes. The tuning would require a throttle body swap and reinstallation of the factory tune and air box but still only an hour at any dealer. I saved all the old parts. But I can’t imagine anyone would want to return to the wimpy OEM sound and less power.

As said, a personal buyer might care. I didn’t concern myself one whit about the CAI on the Charger. It also greatly depends on the vehicle. I don’t think most Mustang buyers would care about exhaust/intake/wheels. As for a dealer, I could not tell you what, if anything, they’d deduct. When you request a carvana or vroom valuation, they have a section regarding aftermarket mods. Obviously, they are adjusting their offer based on the answers, or they wouldn’t ask.

When it comes to mods, whenever feasible, you are better off returning to stock and selling the mods separately.

stickguy

Carvana asks up front if you have done any mods. Not sure what happens if you say yes (I never have), but I assume they ask for details. And then either deduct or decline possibly, depending on what it is.

andres3

28firefighter said:

This seems worthy of a test drive
https://www.carmax.com/car/20113520

That's a nice S4. If a Lexus totaled my S4 today; that would be my comparable and make the insurance companies payoff job and calculation easy. For CarMax, it seems priced very competitively.

I must be getting old, I found myself telling a new coworker I had just met (that was complimenting my car and car color selection) that "they just don't make them like they used to."

laurasdada

Thanks, andres.
After a couple of charges (very slow, as I mentioned earlier, on 120 volt) looks like I'm getting ~20+ miles of electric drive. Driven just under 200 miles, dino fuel is still reading 3/4 full, OBC noting 65mpg overall. As electric is the new kid in town toy for me, I've been in "comfort" mode and trying to max the electrons. But, from the test drive, if necessary, the Galactica can get up and go.
Found a large lidded storage cubby lower left of the steering wheel, a good find as storage is somewhat limited. Deep, lots of room. Nice.
Seats are good; firm. Of course Jag seats had 7.25 years of butt break-in. I'm sure the Audi's will conform, too. Of course, still fiddling with adjustments, trying to get perfect position. But, I may never see dash turn signals again!
Interior quality is excellent, tight fits all around. Nice wood, never been a fan of "piano black," but that's the way of the world lately. Nicely punctuated with aluminum accents, though. Glove box is large, but not the best design, when I open it, all the detritus in shifts forward. Perhaps I have to get in passenger side and further review. But, a pen/tire stick holder, currently in use for tire stick. Also, not run-flats, but no spare; fix a flat kit (I'll guess Dino A7 has a spare; I've got matter/anti-matter modules taking up that space). So hope never to have to use it.
Getting used to e-shifter; but certainly not a better mouse-trap. B&O stereo sounds lovely, although I'm far from an audiophile. Looking forward to the Sirius subscription battle in 3.5 months; $5/month max or I walk!
Micro USB connectors, not regular. That stinks a bit. Wish it had a cd/player juke box a la XF. That's not too old fashioned!
Will need a road trip one of these days.

qbrozen

Wife suggested I keep the Charger and sell the Benz. Winter is "so far away" after all. I guess that makes sense. I'll have to try to get it into a shop on Monday.

carnaught

Hi all. Thought I’d give more info. on the new punch starting with the window sticker, pics to follow.

carnaught

carnaught

carnaught

qbrozen

That's really sharp, @carnaught . Massive difference from my 2018.

oldfarmer50

qbrozen said:

Wife suggested I keep the Charger and sell the Benz. Winter is "so far away" after all. I guess that makes sense. I'll have to try to get it into a shop on Monday.

Did you ever figure out what the problem was with that car?

kyfdx

28firefighter said:

This seems worthy of a test drive
https://www.carmax.com/car/20113520

Love that interior!

oldfarmer50

Here’s a safety film starring andres3’s grandfather at the beginning.
https://youtu.be/2Uorwb6M-9A

rayainsw

carnaught -
Very nice looking - and best of luck with it!
- Ray
Also a BMW 3-series driver...

andres3

carnaught said:

Nice, good to see an effort on interior improvement by BMW. For a while I thought they just didn't care.
So what is this BMW replacing? What did you have before? Was it from Arrowhead BMW?

andres3

laurasdada said:

Thanks, andres.
After a couple of charges (very slow, as I mentioned earlier, on 120 volt) looks like I'm getting ~20+ miles of electric drive. Driven just under 200 miles, dino fuel is still reading 3/4 full, OBC noting 65mpg overall. As electric is the new kid in town toy for me, I've been in "comfort" mode and trying to max the electrons. But, from the test drive, if necessary, the Galactica can get up and go.
Found a large lidded storage cubby lower left of the steering wheel, a good find as storage is somewhat limited. Deep, lots of room. Nice.
Seats are good; firm. Of course Jag seats had 7.25 years of butt break-in. I'm sure the Audi's will conform, too. Of course, still fiddling with adjustments, trying to get perfect position. But, I may never see dash turn signals again!
Interior quality is excellent, tight fits all around. Nice wood, never been a fan of "piano black," but that's the way of the world lately. Nicely punctuated with aluminum accents, though. Glove box is large, but not the best design, when I open it, all the detritus in shifts forward. Perhaps I have to get in passenger side and further review. But, a pen/tire stick holder, currently in use for tire stick. Also, not run-flats, but no spare; fix a flat kit (I'll guess Dino A7 has a spare; I've got matter/anti-matter modules taking up that space). So hope never to have to use it.
Getting used to e-shifter; but certainly not a better mouse-trap. B&O stereo sounds lovely, although I'm far from an audiophile. Looking forward to the Sirius subscription battle in 3.5 months; $5/month max or I walk!
Micro USB connectors, not regular. That stinks a bit. Wish it had a cd/player juke box a la XF. That's not too old fashioned!
Will need a road trip one of these days.

There might be hidden storage compartments under the front of the front seats....
My new company issued cellphone has a USB-C connector. I guess B wasn't good enough.
My first non-Apple smartphone! It's not intuitive at all! Not a fan so far.