The CX-7 needs a look too (I'll hit Mazda tomorrow), but it will probably be rejected, becasue well, it's a Mazda (and that's without me even telling her it is really a Ford underneath!)
May I add my $.02 - I went from four years of driving a Lexus RX300 to a newly-purchased Mazda CX-7. I'd never even heard of it til about a day before I test drove and bought it. Give it a whirl. It's not quite as luxe as the Lexus, but it's a boatload cheaper! I was able to load mine up to the hilt - every bell and whistle - and paid about $15K less than if I'd bought a similarly loaded Lexus. Just try it; I'm not saying it's on the same par as a Lexus, but...
After three months of driving an RX300, I've realized that the flawless execution and reliability of the Lexus far outweighs the nondescript driving experience.
Good lets keep it that way. The only two Lexus vehicles I have ever enjoyed driving were the Original IS300 with the Ecsaine package and the GS300. I have never driven a GS400 but I expect it to be a little better then the GS300.
I swear it seems like both lexus and toyota try and make their leather seats as slipery as possible so even if you wanted to go around a corner quickly you could not because you would slide out of the seat.
The interior was OK, but I would not get one for myself. My SIL does like them (she had a prior version RX before her current FX35).
I gave her my opinions, so now she has to go out and look at them herself. Once she decides which one she likes, I can dig into pricing more (not worth the effort with 5 choices in play, so I gave her ball park figures).
I actually touted the FX last time she was looking. She was kinda settled on an MDX, even though she didn't really like the handling, but fell in love with the FX and bought it right away, and it wasn't even on her radar screen until I made her go look at it.
If I had a ton of $$ to spend on an SUV, & didn't mind getting 12 mpg, I'd be looking seriously at a Toyota Land Cruiser. Or, possibly, the Lexus version. The last couple of current-gen. TLC's I drove, I liked a lot. In my mind, they're possibly the "gold standard" of large SUV's. The LX470 I'd probably only get for the upgraded stereo option--the last LX470 I drove with the Nakamichi stereo--I almost bought because of that alone. (I haven't heard the Levinson stereos in newer Lexus vehicles).
But, do they have good lease rates on GM SUV's now? (You'd think they would!) And I'm just curious, if the only thing wrong with the FX is that it "needs new tires", what's the big rush for your SIL?
it's 3 years old, and she wants something new. THere's also some deal with reimbursement from work that I don't fully understand. But mostly, she wants a new car (which here we can certainly appreciate)!
Just got a call from Jeff. The "E"-"X" has been hit (not her fault) and the Avalon got whacked but good on the front wheel. Body damage also evident, but not that big a deal.
The car is being towed to a trusted shop, and then we'll see. MI is a "my fault" state, so I'm hoping Mrs. X has collision insurance. Even so, it may be curtains.
That was the first I'd heard of it. I don't usually keep up with Top Gear during the off season. Very tragic... If memory serves, a few years ago, one of Car and Driver's test drivers was killed in a crash on a track in a tuned Mercedes.
All is not well with Japanese reliability...see headline in NY Times today ("Japanese Fret That Quality Is in Decline") and also Edmunds new forum ("Toyota Camry Woes").
I ordered a 2007 Corvette Coupe on Wednesday. Expected delivery in 5 – 6 weeks. Monterey Red \ Titanium Gray 3LT, MX0, CC3 - Ray Soon to be Corvette Driver . . . Already counting the weeks and the days . . .
For those who do not follow C6 option codes:
3LT = Option package including a bunch of comfort & convenience items ( heated seats, telescoping steering column, Bose, etc. )
MX0 = 6 speed manumatic with paddle shift ( very similar implementation to my GP GXP )
Corvette eh? Be careful around them big honking SUVs... They will climb all over ya :P
How firm is the ride in corvette btw? It must be harsh with the road conditions deteriorating nowadays with all the potholes, bumps and whatnot... :confuse:
The bad thing about CCBA is that when you fall off the wagon you fall hard. I've acquired 3 cars in the last 3 months, and got rid of two. The old Ram 50 4x4 got hauled off by the kidney foundation, I bought a 2004 Mazda B2300 pickup and a '92 Miata, then sold the Miata for a tidy profit, and adopted a neglected Alfa. All since August.
So now I'm realizing that I'm just not bonding with the Mazda pickup. It's reliable, comfortable, gets good gas mileage, and has as many doodads as I'd care to have in a truck. But it has one annoying flaw - the engine revs drop reeeeally slowly between shifts, making it impossible - or at least no fun - to drive spiritedly. I used to rev my old beater truck within an inch of it's life - partly because it needed it, and partly because it was kinda fun. This truck just doesn't encourage such hooliganism, which annoys me. It might as well have an automatic. Yech.
I stopped by Carmax to get a cash value, hoping that would talk me down. Nope - they've offered exactly the same amount that I bought it for private party. So, basically, I've got a "get out of truck free" card. What to do, what to do...
Have you tested the MR2 yet? Sorry I haven't chimed in earlier. I have a 92 MR2 NA (non turbo) that I have owned for the last 8 years. Isn't it great what 7 years of depreciation will do. :P Mine has 59K and runs like it is brand new. It's loads of fun, but as was mentioned can be squirrely at the limit and is not a good car in rain or snow. The Mark I (85-89) and Mark II (91-95) versions both corner beautifully and were very quick in their era.
Mine is nearly flawless and I've only had to replace some freon in the last 8 years. I did replace the suspension bushings, but only because the squeaking was bugging me and I had the non-interference timing belt changed early.
They made less than 25,000 of the Mark IIs and finding them with less than 100K can be done, but takes time. The 94s and 95s are particularly rare and less than 400 95s were shipped to the US. Some slight upgrades in suspension, to improve handling, took place in 93, but MR2 enthusiasts seem divided as to their benefit.
Check the t-tops to make sure they don't leak. If you keep it garaged and drive only on sunny days you won't even have to worry about the rubber seals. I've seen plenty sell on ebay for $5K or less depending on miles/modifications/wear and tear. The turbos usually sell for $2500-$3500 more for an equivalent mileage. I've seen at least three to four very low mileage turbos bid in excess of $15K and one for over $20K. They have a small, but rabid following.
I hope the one you test wasn't totally abused. They really were, and are, great cars.
Most cars that don't have sporting intentions and have a manual transmission hold the revs between shifts. I don't think our 1998 Sonoma did this, but it would have been less obvious, as it didn't have the optional tachometer. I don't remember the Legacy GT I drove doing this, either. And I know our old Beetle TDI didn't.
I haven't test driven that many cars with manuals, so I can't offer much more in the way of comparison. I think the rev-holding would get annoying. The Mazda Ranger is a painfully old design, and I can understand it not offering much in the way of driving enjoyment. Ford needs to redesign/replace their US-market compact truck (and US-market Focus), but my understanding is that they couldn't afford to do it. (I actually think the Focus has been dumbed down even more since it came here. The 2000 model I drove was pleasant to drive and had a decent interior. The 2006 model I drove was still okay to drive but the interior was ugly and had a bunch of indecipherable pictograms on various trim pieces.)
The rule for CCBA is usually that, if you have a get-out-of-car free card, you take it. But then you'd be pressured to buy something because you wouldn't have a daily driver. So I'd find a replacement before selling it--even if Carmax has to re-appraise it, I don't think the value would drop very far.
No.. I never bothered the owner... got some serious eye-rolling at home..... and... let's just say that I'm saving my ammunition for something that I really, really want..
“How firm is the ride in corvette btw? It must be harsh with the road conditions deteriorating nowadays with all the potholes, bumps and whatnot... “
I test drove both a Z51 and Base 2006 C6 Coupe in July.
Z51. Not as much ride difference as I’d expected, but expecting to put 15K mi / yr on what will be a daily driver ( unlikely to be driven on a track or auto-X ), cheaper & longer lasting front tires that are better in cold weather, etc. mean I’d be fine with the Base suspension. I did not stress the car, handling-wise, in my drives, and thus would not have been able to evaluate any difference(s) in ultimate limits. I trust the published numbers – as I believe the Quarter Mile ET-s I’ve seen.
The ride of the base suspension suits me & my driving requirements just fine. The ride is certainly firm, but I found it well controlled \ damped & I expect that it will be livable for my long trips as well as my commute. Also (and one reason I did not fight the suggestion that I drive a Z51 as well as a Base car) neither of these 2 cars showed any signs of extraneous noise, such as creaks or groans or squeaks from interior plastic bits rubbing or from anything that might not be bolted (screwed, glued) together perfectly. I noticed no wind noise at the (brief) 70 MPH cruise intervals. ( Sound systems were off during all of both drives. ) I presume that it would be the same at any speed I’d be comfortable holding & cruising = typically 80 MPH or so. No vibrations noted at any speeds – in either car.
So: The Z51 option I chose not to order, after driving both Base & Z51 at the insistence ( oh, please don’t throw me in THAT briar patch ! ) my dealer. Though winter is relatively mild here in Atlanta, as a Daily Driver this needs to be capable of handling cold temps on occasion. As well as some rather poorly maintained roads near where I work. And the handling of the base C6 is quite competent. My requiring no Z51 is one of the primary reasons I needed to order mine. My dealer orders 95+% of theirs with Z51. As a second ( or third or fourth ) car in a stable – for sunny weekend drives only – the Z51 probably makes sense to many. But not for me.
HTH. - Ray An – tic – i – pa - tion . . .
Its not the flywheel that is holding revs, it's the computer holding the revs to keep the burn lean. My '96 Contour did it, MIL's '98 Accord did it, FILs '02 330ci does it, '03 G35 does it, '05 Legacy does it, '93 Accord doesn't do it, '93 Civic doesn't do it. That's all the sticks in my life right now :P
I would echo your comments. Every post-'96 stick I have had has done this, some more, some less. It is annoying in anything sport-oriented, as it was in my RSX. It is one of the few complaints in the log of Edmunds' long-term Civic SI.
I am slowly circling a '91 Prelude S, black, paint and interior in surprisingly good shape, around 90K, claiming one owner, they want $3K for it. This is the base model - manual windows and plastic wheel covers. I would offer maybe $2K. But I am still holding out hope that a really well-kept pre-86 Supra will turn up somewhere. They are getting pretty rare, to judge by the number of ads for them. OTOH, everyone and their mother seems to be trying to dump a MkIII ('86-'92).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
If I trade in I'm only out the plate fee and title fee. Not too bad. The little Dodge was showing classic bad head gasket symptoms. It was entitled, at over 170k miles, but I just didn't have the time or inclination to fix it.
I know lots of new cars hold revs, but this thing is ridiculous. Put in clutch, one, two, revs drop. Any agressive shifting is lurchy, notchy and generally not fun. I've even ground gears a time or two trying to shift fast with the revs out of whack.
I've been on a Mazda kick, I know, but if I could get the local dealer to match Carmax's offer and sell me a Mazdaspeed3 at MSRP or a little less then I'd be sorely tempted - say, the truck + 12k. I don't know if those are out yet. I like the WRX too but for the price I like the 'Speed3 better. This dealer does have a retractable hardtop Miata that I was lusting after pretty badly, but that would only be justifiable if I sold my '74 Alfa Spider, which is less practical but way cooler (I think, anyway). I have no need for two convertibles - that fact has been established.
Go for a MS6 instead of an MS3 and there are incredible deals to be had.
'91 Preludes are carborated IIRC. They look swift but aren't the fastest things on 4 wheels. That early H22 has no realtionship to the later, 190hp vtec H22 my Accord is desparately screaming for.
Oh, I'm not buying from Carmax. They're just nice enough to provide leverage for my trade-in at the Mazda dealer.
You guys are right - the 'Speed6 is stupid cheap right now. I could probably get one cheaper than the Speed3, and get AWD and a bit more grown up car. When I did a local search I came up with 74 within 50 miles of me, so they may even have to improve the incentives.
I am sitting on the fence right now with the MS6, I am in no way a CCB (typically buy used cars and keep them for 10 years) but man, that is just a deal and a half. They need 93 octane and have 18" summer tires...can't make up my mind. The MS6 is like 22gs, GT is more like 25gs but gets you leather and a sunroof. Leases around here are 219 for the MS6, and 240 for MS6 GT.
Funny, I was asked that today when we went into the used car dealer that we sold Zippy to, had to sign some papers. They asked me where I've been. I'm still around more or less, its firewood season so time is at a premium.
I've got the Sebring up for sale, can't really justify keeping a car I never drive. Hopefully it goes away, I've got it priced low enough, but if not, I've got a 12 year old who's dying to drive it when he gets his permit.
I took Mom's Volvo in to have some work done yesterday. The tilt lever for the steering column was cracked, and someone had installed a zip-tie to try to keep it from falling off. I say "someone," but the only place that has ever worked on it up until now was Swope Volvo of Louisville, and they had it last summer to replace the left stalk on the steering wheel, so by deductive reasoning, they put the zip tie there rather than replacing the part, which would involve disassembling part of the dash. (They also left a piece of insulation in the floorboard.) Keep in mind that these are the same clowns that misdelivered my BMW earlier this summer... Since replacing the lever would probably have taken another day (I also had the brakes flushed, new tires installed, and the oil changed), I left the tilt lever as-is and will try to get the dealer to fix their half-hearted work.
I had a 2006 Suzuki Forenza as a rental car. It wasn't great to drive (and the tires were very underinflated), and it had a lot of quirks, like the little horn buttons on the steering wheel (on a 2006 car!), and the dust boots around the stalks on the steering wheel, and the airbag light was on, but it had a lot of features for such an inexpensive car.
Finally, I drove a friend's 1997 Accord last night. This brought meaning to the phrase, "never meet your heroes." I have always liked the styling of the 1994-97 Accord, particularly the 94-95 model, but this was a lower level model with drum brakes in the rear. The pedal feel was awful--step through a couple of inches of mush, push firmly, and the car still doesn't slow down much. I had to push down very hard to get any appreciable braking. I think the interior had about the same amount of room as my 3-series--it was pretty cozy. The automatic transmission shifted very firmly, even with light acceleration, and the engine wasn't as smooth as I remembered. It had tiny little horn buttons, like the Suzuki, but I can excuse that on a car nearly a decade old.
Supposedly, my 3-series will be repaired by next Friday.
That is the sexiest interior the world has ever seen in a luxury car. I wished I could have final pricing, so I could build one. If it's worth it I might just inconvience myself with driving to Lubbock, and get one. :surprise:
He passed away in January, but it's taken us this long to get the estate squared away to the point where we could get the title transferred and get it on the market.
Supposedly, my 3-series will be repaired by next Friday.
You're lucky. When my bmw 6-series was rear ended a few years ago, I was on a "wait-list" for 4 months to get it into the best body shop in the Boston area. Then, 6 months to fix it, wait on a bumper from Germany, etc. Just part of the dues involved in owning a 15-20 y.o. "classic".
The brake flush on your Volvo--I hope they really did the work. I mean, if they're fairly incompetent, I know I'd wonder about something that I couldn't check myself to see if it was actually done. Not to bum you out, but I've read your previous experiences with these "ace mechanics".....
Let me rephrase that, Friday is the delivery day after the first round of repairs... I'm sure it will have to go back later because something isn't right. Why would I expect anything else?
The mechanic I took the Volvo to is an independent, and I hold them in a little higher regard than the dealer. They don't do tires, so it had to go to a tire shop for that, and one of the tires is out of spec, so it was causing a vibration when I drove on the interstate yesterday. That tire should get replaced Wednesday. Anyway, the indie mechanic *did* change the oil, and didn't overfill it, so at the very least they're better than the quickie lube joints.
Thanks for the encouragement... This is an uphill battle, but hopefully I will be able to get reimbursed for the loss to the BMW's value from the other party's insurance company...
What are the other choices for the interior color? This looks exceedingly feminine (I'm female, and usually don't subscribe to the theory that a particular car can only be for a man or a woman, but for some reason, this creamy shade looks...feminine, for lack of a better term).
Dunno.. Black will be there for sure.. Perhaps taupe but that'll be it probably.
In thing nowadays is dark dash and rest either brown or beige. Someone at Volvo didnt get the memo apparently... :P
I've heard many things (minivans, beetle, mini etc..) called feminine but yellow beige color is the first. :surprise:
Most europeans have them. MB started the trend way back and was copied across the board. Ofcourse, I could be wrong as my memory goes only back to Eighties. :P
Comments
May I add my $.02 - I went from four years of driving a Lexus RX300 to a newly-purchased Mazda CX-7. I'd never even heard of it til about a day before I test drove and bought it. Give it a whirl. It's not quite as luxe as the Lexus, but it's a boatload cheaper! I was able to load mine up to the hilt - every bell and whistle - and paid about $15K less than if I'd bought a similarly loaded Lexus. Just try it; I'm not saying it's on the same par as a Lexus, but...
Just kidding, I still can't stand it.
I swear it seems like both lexus and toyota try and make their leather seats as slipery as possible so even if you wanted to go around a corner quickly you could not because you would slide out of the seat.
I gave her my opinions, so now she has to go out and look at them herself. Once she decides which one she likes, I can dig into pricing more (not worth the effort with 5 choices in play, so I gave her ball park figures).
I actually touted the FX last time she was looking. She was kinda settled on an MDX, even though she didn't really like the handling, but fell in love with the FX and bought it right away, and it wasn't even on her radar screen until I made her go look at it.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
But, do they have good lease rates on GM SUV's now? (You'd think they would!) And I'm just curious, if the only thing wrong with the FX is that it "needs new tires", what's the big rush for your SIL?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'm afraid I have bad news, Quentin.
Just got a call from Jeff. The "E"-"X" has been hit (not her fault) and the Avalon got whacked but good on the front wheel. Body damage also evident, but not that big a deal.
The car is being towed to a trusted shop, and then we'll see. MI is a "my fault" state, so I'm hoping Mrs. X has collision insurance. Even so, it may be curtains.
Thought you'd want to know.
-Mathias
Richard "Hamster" Hammond in severe jet car crash.
He seems to be ok but is still in the hospital. He was orginaly listed as critical condition but now I guess has been upgraded to stable.
finalgear.com is trying to organize some kind of get well basket thing for him.
I ordered a 2007 Corvette Coupe on Wednesday. Expected delivery in 5 – 6 weeks.
Monterey Red \ Titanium Gray
3LT, MX0, CC3
- Ray
Soon to be Corvette Driver . . .
Already counting the weeks and the days . . .
For those who do not follow C6 option codes:
3LT = Option package including a bunch of comfort & convenience items ( heated seats, telescoping steering column, Bose, etc. )
MX0 = 6 speed manumatic with paddle shift ( very similar implementation to my GP GXP )
CC3 = Transparent ( darkly tinted ) roof panel
Are you selling the GP GXP or keeping it?
How firm is the ride in corvette btw? It must be harsh with the road conditions deteriorating nowadays with all the potholes, bumps and whatnot... :confuse:
So now I'm realizing that I'm just not bonding with the Mazda pickup. It's reliable, comfortable, gets good gas mileage, and has as many doodads as I'd care to have in a truck. But it has one annoying flaw - the engine revs drop reeeeally slowly between shifts, making it impossible - or at least no fun - to drive spiritedly. I used to rev my old beater truck within an inch of it's life - partly because it needed it, and partly because it was kinda fun. This truck just doesn't encourage such hooliganism, which annoys me. It might as well have an automatic. Yech.
I stopped by Carmax to get a cash value, hoping that would talk me down. Nope - they've offered exactly the same amount that I bought it for private party. So, basically, I've got a "get out of truck free" card. What to do, what to do...
-Jason
What would you get instead?
But wouldn't you still be losing the taxes, title transfer fee, etc?
I know that just cost me $130 yesterday on my beater B2200.
What was wrong with the RAM 50? I was looking for one of those myself when the mazda came along at what I thought was a good price.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Have you tested the MR2 yet? Sorry I haven't chimed in earlier. I have a 92 MR2 NA (non turbo) that I have owned for the last 8 years. Isn't it great what 7 years of depreciation will do. :P Mine has 59K and runs like it is brand new. It's loads of fun, but as was mentioned can be squirrely at the limit and is not a good car in rain or snow. The Mark I (85-89) and Mark II (91-95) versions both corner beautifully and were very quick in their era.
Mine is nearly flawless and I've only had to replace some freon in the last 8 years. I did replace the suspension bushings, but only because the squeaking was bugging me and I had the non-interference timing belt changed early.
They made less than 25,000 of the Mark IIs and finding them with less than 100K can be done, but takes time. The 94s and 95s are particularly rare and less than 400 95s were shipped to the US. Some slight upgrades in suspension, to improve handling, took place in 93, but MR2 enthusiasts seem divided as to their benefit.
Check the t-tops to make sure they don't leak. If you keep it garaged and drive only on sunny days you won't even have to worry about the rubber seals. I've seen plenty sell on ebay for $5K or less depending on miles/modifications/wear and tear. The turbos usually sell for $2500-$3500 more for an equivalent mileage. I've seen at least three to four very low mileage turbos bid in excess of $15K and one for over $20K. They have a small, but rabid following.
I hope the one you test wasn't totally abused. They really were, and are, great cars.
Gogiboy
I haven't test driven that many cars with manuals, so I can't offer much more in the way of comparison. I think the rev-holding would get annoying. The Mazda Ranger is a painfully old design, and I can understand it not offering much in the way of driving enjoyment. Ford needs to redesign/replace their US-market compact truck (and US-market Focus), but my understanding is that they couldn't afford to do it. (I actually think the Focus has been dumbed down even more since it came here. The 2000 model I drove was pleasant to drive and had a decent interior. The 2006 model I drove was still okay to drive but the interior was ugly and had a bunch of indecipherable pictograms on various trim pieces.)
The rule for CCBA is usually that, if you have a get-out-of-car free card, you take it. But then you'd be pressured to buy something because you wouldn't have a daily driver. So I'd find a replacement before selling it--even if Carmax has to re-appraise it, I don't think the value would drop very far.
This just wasn't it...
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I test drove both a Z51 and Base 2006 C6 Coupe in July.
Z51. Not as much ride difference as I’d expected, but expecting to put 15K mi / yr on what will be a daily driver ( unlikely to be driven on a track or auto-X ), cheaper & longer lasting front tires that are better in cold weather, etc. mean I’d be fine with the Base suspension. I did not stress the car, handling-wise, in my drives, and thus would not have been able to evaluate any difference(s) in ultimate limits. I trust the published numbers – as I believe the Quarter Mile ET-s I’ve seen.
The ride of the base suspension suits me & my driving requirements just fine. The ride is certainly firm, but I found it well controlled \ damped & I expect that it will be livable for my long trips as well as my commute. Also (and one reason I did not fight the suggestion that I drive a Z51 as well as a Base car) neither of these 2 cars showed any signs of extraneous noise, such as creaks or groans or squeaks from interior plastic bits rubbing or from anything that might not be bolted (screwed, glued) together perfectly. I noticed no wind noise at the (brief) 70 MPH cruise intervals. ( Sound systems were off during all of both drives. ) I presume that it would be the same at any speed I’d be comfortable holding & cruising = typically 80 MPH or so. No vibrations noted at any speeds – in either car.
So: The Z51 option I chose not to order, after driving both Base & Z51 at the insistence ( oh, please don’t throw me in THAT briar patch ! ) my dealer. Though winter is relatively mild here in Atlanta, as a Daily Driver this needs to be capable of handling cold temps on occasion. As well as some rather poorly maintained roads near where I work. And the handling of the base C6 is quite competent. My requiring no Z51 is one of the primary reasons I needed to order mine. My dealer orders 95+% of theirs with Z51. As a second ( or third or fourth ) car in a stable – for sunny weekend drives only – the Z51 probably makes sense to many. But not for me.
HTH.
- Ray
An – tic – i – pa - tion . . .
That's all the sticks in my life right now :P
I am slowly circling a '91 Prelude S, black, paint and interior in surprisingly good shape, around 90K, claiming one owner, they want $3K for it. This is the base model - manual windows and plastic wheel covers. I would offer maybe $2K. But I am still holding out hope that a really well-kept pre-86 Supra will turn up somewhere. They are getting pretty rare, to judge by the number of ads for them. OTOH, everyone and their mother seems to be trying to dump a MkIII ('86-'92).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I know lots of new cars hold revs, but this thing is ridiculous. Put in clutch, one, two, revs drop. Any agressive shifting is lurchy, notchy and generally not fun. I've even ground gears a time or two trying to shift fast with the revs out of whack.
I've been on a Mazda kick, I know, but if I could get the local dealer to match Carmax's offer and sell me a Mazdaspeed3 at MSRP or a little less then I'd be sorely tempted - say, the truck + 12k. I don't know if those are out yet. I like the WRX too but for the price I like the 'Speed3 better. This dealer does have a retractable hardtop Miata that I was lusting after pretty badly, but that would only be justifiable if I sold my '74 Alfa Spider, which is less practical but way cooler (I think, anyway). I have no need for two convertibles - that fact has been established.
-Jason
'91 Preludes are carborated IIRC. They look swift but aren't the fastest things on 4 wheels. That early H22 has no realtionship to the later, 190hp vtec H22 my Accord is desparately screaming for.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
well, yeah, if you buy something from Carmax.
I thought you were just going to sell it to them outright.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You guys are right - the 'Speed6 is stupid cheap right now. I could probably get one cheaper than the Speed3, and get AWD and a bit more grown up car. When I did a local search I came up with 74 within 50 miles of me, so they may even have to improve the incentives.
-Jason
The MS6 is like 22gs, GT is more like 25gs but gets you leather and a sunroof. Leases around here are 219 for the MS6, and 240 for MS6 GT.
Hmmmmm...
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However, can't get 93 here in CO ... highest is 91.
That, plus the summer tires might be a bit of a hinderance in the winter - enough so to nullify the effects of the AWD.
I've got the Sebring up for sale, can't really justify keeping a car I never drive. Hopefully it goes away, I've got it priced low enough, but if not, I've got a 12 year old who's dying to drive it when he gets his permit.
I had a 2006 Suzuki Forenza as a rental car. It wasn't great to drive (and the tires were very underinflated), and it had a lot of quirks, like the little horn buttons on the steering wheel (on a 2006 car!), and the dust boots around the stalks on the steering wheel, and the airbag light was on, but it had a lot of features for such an inexpensive car.
Finally, I drove a friend's 1997 Accord last night. This brought meaning to the phrase, "never meet your heroes." I have always liked the styling of the 1994-97 Accord, particularly the 94-95 model, but this was a lower level model with drum brakes in the rear. The pedal feel was awful--step through a couple of inches of mush, push firmly, and the car still doesn't slow down much. I had to push down very hard to get any appreciable braking. I think the interior had about the same amount of room as my 3-series--it was pretty cozy. The automatic transmission shifted very firmly, even with light acceleration, and the engine wasn't as smooth as I remembered. It had tiny little horn buttons, like the Suzuki, but I can excuse that on a car nearly a decade old.
Supposedly, my 3-series will be repaired by next Friday.
Rocky
I started reading the message without catching the user name, but after I read that I didn't need to. :P
Rocky
james
He passed away in January, but it's taken us this long to get the estate squared away to the point where we could get the title transferred and get it on the market.
You're lucky. When my bmw 6-series was rear ended a few years ago, I was on a "wait-list" for 4 months to get it into the best body shop in the Boston area. Then, 6 months to fix it, wait on a bumper from Germany, etc. Just part of the dues involved in owning a 15-20 y.o. "classic".
The brake flush on your Volvo--I hope they really did the work. I mean, if they're fairly incompetent, I know I'd wonder about something that I couldn't check myself to see if it was actually done. Not to bum you out, but I've read your previous experiences with these "ace mechanics".....
Anyway, good luck with the 3-series.
Rocky
The mechanic I took the Volvo to is an independent, and I hold them in a little higher regard than the dealer. They don't do tires, so it had to go to a tire shop for that, and one of the tires is out of spec, so it was causing a vibration when I drove on the interstate yesterday. That tire should get replaced Wednesday. Anyway, the indie mechanic *did* change the oil, and didn't overfill it, so at the very least they're better than the quickie lube joints.
Thanks for the encouragement... This is an uphill battle, but hopefully I will be able to get reimbursed for the loss to the BMW's value from the other party's insurance company...
In thing nowadays is dark dash and rest either brown or beige. Someone at Volvo didnt get the memo apparently... :P
I've heard many things (minivans, beetle, mini etc..) called feminine but yellow beige color is the first. :surprise:
Most europeans have them. MB started the trend way back and was copied across the board. Ofcourse, I could be wrong as my memory goes only back to Eighties. :P