Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous

Michaell

corvette said:

Also found this beauty in the parking lot of my local pub. It was debadged other than an xdrive badge on the deck lid.

Obviously driven by a transplanted Seahawks fan.

tifighter

28firefighter said:

After a proper exterior detail and some ceramic spray wax.

Time for the top to come off.

mjfloyd1

@nyccarguy said:

@mjfloyd1 said:

@nyccarguy said:
Emission Systems Problem light came on in the Pilot just before. No driveability issues. Looks like we’ll be using the truck for the rest of the weekend. I’ll drop it off Tuesday at the mechanic.

Might want to check emissions warranty as it is usually longer then the bumper to bumper warranty- then it might be covered by Honda.

Also check your gas filler cap.

It’s a cap less fuel filler.

Well, don’t spend too much time looking for the gas cap then...😂

Looks like Honda emissions warranty is 7 years/ 70K miles

oldfarmer50

nyccarguy said:

Emission Systems Problem light came on in the Pilot just before. No driveability issues. Looks like we’ll be using the truck for the rest of the weekend. I’ll drop it off Tuesday at the mechanic.

Try tightening the gas cap.

Oh, I read further, try the purge valve.

explorerx4

A long shot, but sometimes the capless flap can get dirty and not seal all the way.

mjfloyd1

@nyccarguy said:

@mjfloyd1 said:

@nyccarguy said:
Emission Systems Problem light came on in the Pilot just before. No driveability issues. Looks like we’ll be using the truck for the rest of the weekend. I’ll drop it off Tuesday at the mechanic.

Might want to check emissions warranty as it is usually longer then the bumper to bumper warranty- then it might be covered by Honda.

Also check your gas filler cap.

It’s a cap less fuel filler.

Have you had the code read?

I saw this...

There was also a post stating the the cap-less fuel filler has two flaps and the inner flap can malfunction so the system doesn’t pressurize

nyccarguy

I will have to have my mechanic read the code and tell me what he thinks.

henryn

https://smile.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2381AV5PY9BBZ&dchild=1&keywords=obd2+bluetooth&qid=1622326905&sprefix=obd2+,aps,194&sr=8-10

Buy this for $12.99 on Amazon, and download an app onto your android phone. This will give you the code, and a google search will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about the fault code.

qbrozen

@corvette said:

Also found this beauty in the parking lot of my local pub. It was debadged other than an xdrive badge on the deck lid.

Couple of silver reflective racing stripes and it could control traffic in construction zones.

roadburner

nyccarguy said:

I will have to have my mechanic read the code and tell me what he thinks.

I had a similar issue with the 2er; BMW had a problem with the NVLD pump and had extended the warranty on that component- so I had it replaced at the next service at no cost.

sda

nyccarguy said:

I will have to have my mechanic read the code and tell me what he thinks.

With this being a known issue and possible TSB I would take this to the Honda dealer to diagnose. It may be repaired at no charge. I had a couple of TSBs on our 2010, way out of warranty, repaired free.

corvette

I'm pleased with the BlueDriver code reader I bought a couple years back.

au1994

corvette said:

Also found this beauty in the parking lot of my local pub. It was debadged other than an xdrive badge on the deck lid.

we really need a vomit 🤮 emoji

nyccarguy

@sda said:
With this being a known issue and possible TSB I would take this to the Honda dealer to diagnose. It may be repaired at no charge. I had a couple of TSBs on our 2010, way out of warranty, repaired free.

I don’t believe the dealer fixed the issue 5 weeks ago properly. I’ll bring it to my guy, have him read the code, & fix it.

xwesx

corvette said:

I'm pleased with the BlueDriver code reader I bought a couple years back.

Same here. It works well and the developer regularly provides meaningful updates to the software.

henryn

xwesx said:

corvette said:

I'm pleased with the BlueDriver code reader I bought a couple years back.

Same here. It works well and the developer regularly provides meaningful updates to the software.

I just bought a really cheap sender for around $10 or $12, and then paid $5 for the Torque Pro software on the play store. If you look around for reviews, the Torque Pro is usually rated the best software for this application. All I really want or need are the code(s), once you have that "google is your friend". I have probably used that cheap sender 10 or 12 times over a period of several years, and it has never failed me.

xwesx

henryn said:

I just bought a really cheap sender for around $10 or $12, and then paid $5 for the Torque Pro software on the play store. If you look around for reviews, the Torque Pro is usually rated the best software for this application. All I really want or need are the code(s), once you have that "google is your friend". I have probably used that cheap sender 10 or 12 times over a period of several years, and it has never failed me.

Nice! I didn't realize there was software that would just link up to a variety of units that you plug into the OBD2 port. /facepalm

explorerx4

My sister ius passing her first year Prius V onto my niece and sent a picture of her replacement vehicle.
2018 Audi A3 e-tron, a PHEV.

Sandman6472

Started work at the Toyota store yesterday, they had me shadow another driver all day, well from 12:30 to 6:35 as we got off late. Think it'll work as it ain't that hard. Just takes a few days to get into the routine but folks there have been super nice so not worried. Do like that I start later in the day those couple days I work, nice to sleep in a bit those days. And it's about the same distance from the house, about 3 miles each way. Think if it had been over 10 miles away, doubt I would've taken it but it's really so close. And those hours would've been either watching t v, surfing the web or napping to be honest. Making a few extra bucks ain't a bad thing and found out they pay us weekly like Hertz did, which I kind of like!
Did notice that their new car lot had maybe 6 vehicles in it. Two had been taken out on a test drive when I pulled in, so the pickings are quite slim. Did see the last CV-R up close as someone had just leased/purchased it, and it wasn't that bad. Perfect size for my needs but I do recall the few I drove at Hertz with the black interior had a really bad blind spot where the outside door handles are, the ones with the lighter interior seem to make this issue less noticeable and would not be an issue for me. Have found that having an ivory or light interior isn't that bad, even gray will do, and have decided that black is no longer an interior color I'd consider. But, a good thing that I'm not in the market now with this chip shortage and all. Prices are just ridiculous now for new an used so just glad the Golf is behaving itself, prefer to wait until the 2022's are plentiful on dealers lots. And thinking that that won't really be a reality until sometime next year at the earliest so have no issue fixing most things if they do happen.

Sandman6472

Quick question about leasing, something we've never considered before but something my yearly mileage might work going forward. Seeing that I don't like any vehicular drama of any kind and the idea of always having the factory warranty in place a great thing, exactly how does it all work? I've sen terms like "money factor", "residual" and others used, but really have no clue what it all means. And putting "zero down" seems to be the way to go if one is able to. But, if someone could dumb it down for me using real numbers, now that would make it so I could really understand it.
Let's say I'd like to lease a 2022 VW Taos with an msrp of $30K, what exact figures would I need to know if I wanted a payment of $250 for a 3 year/10K miles lease? Go from there and explain what makes up getting to that $250/month payment with nothing down. I've also heard about "aqusation fees" and "disposition fees" but again, not totally sure about those.
Thanks in advance here folks but want to get somewhat of a small understanding of it all as it might be the way for me to go next time around getting a new vehicle...or possibly a cpo one.

qbrozen

Money factor is just a complicated way of saying interest rate. You multiply by 2400 to get a more typical APR. So an MF of .001 is 2.4% APR.
Residual value is, of course, the percentage of original MSRP the lender is hoping the car will be worth at the end of term.
Getting a target payment can be made up of many things. You may have a very low MF plus some good incentives, but a so-so RV and still achieve a good payment. Sometimes, like often with Toyota, you may have zero incentives, a decent MF, and a crazy high RV, to get a good payment. Occasionally, all 3 align and you get a ridiculously good deal.
Usually you’d be looking for 2/3 of those factors to be in your favor for a decent lease.
So, as you may now understand, it isn’t a straightforward answer to the question “how do I get a good lease?” The numbers have to align on a given month.
As for money due at signing, I like either $0 sign and drive or just first month up front. Sometimes first month plus MVC/DMV fee.

tjc78

@Sandman6472
If you decide you want to lease, just ask us for help. There are a bunch of us of here that know the ropes and we can guide you in the right direction.

One thing to keep in mind with leasing is depending on the programs and discounts available there are many times a much higher MSRP vehicle can have a lower payment than a cheaper one (using the same out of pocket and term).

greg128

My son got his new 2021 Camry Hybrid on Saturday. I went with him to pick it up. The sticker was $36k and change and wound up paying $34k and change and that included $1500 customer cash from Toyota
( which the salesmas said is going away next week as they are running out of cars) He claimed the
Rav-4 hyrid is very popular and hard to find. I did notice a non-hybrid RAV-4 on the showroom floor with
a $29k sticker and plastic hub cabs along with some dealer add-ons (like door edge trim for $140 and some other stuff. There was also an Avalon TRD which I didn't care for...black on black with black wheels and low profile tires (good luck when you hit a pothole) and some red trim.

I drove the Camry to the Enterprise store to return his rental..about 10 miles and here are my impressions: The very dark metallic teal exterior is handsome except for the infamous front grill. I was also glad to see that it did't have the stupid looking fake vents under the tail lights in the rear, which come with the SE and TRD trims. These are way too noticeable on light colors and detract from the clean look of the rear in my
opinion.

The interior seems a bit bland to me, especially the doors. Being all black didn't help and there was a lot of plastic. Still it was nice with the leather and subtle stitching with plenty of features and a prominent raised infotainment screen. He has all of the options except 3d camera, heated steering and a couple more. The seats were very supportive and comfortable although I always prefer a bit more padding than is available
on most new cars. The hybrid powertrain worked very well and it seemed to have adequate power especially off the line. I think the 0-60 is like 7.9 secs. However I'm not sure about the passing power. He should get around 45MPG overall and after 70 miles the tank still read full.

The ride was firm but compliant and took road imperfections well. The car was very solid and the cabin was quiet. It handled well but it seemed that the steering could have been a bit more precise and the brakes seemed grabby (possibly due to regeneration of the electric powertrain?) The JBL system sounded good but the bass seemed a bit thin. I used Apple car play with my phone to listen to some music and it paired seamlessly. The first thing I checked for him at the dealer was that he had a spare tire. Too many cars today do not have them.

Overall I told him he made a solid choice. Toyotas have always been know for their reliability and resale. I also might be considering a non-TRD version of the Avalon for my wife in the future. I just have to become OK with the front grill...and it might take a while.

graphicguy

@greg128 …..Big Congrats to your son. That’s a car that will last him a good long while. I like this gen’s styling. They finally moved away from “appliance” style. Plus, out of all the manufacturers, Toyota has been in the hybrid game the longest and probably does it best. Good choice.

fintail

I notice the new style Camry appears to have kind of a tall greenhouse - might be just an illusion, but the windows look 90s-height, back when having tank-like gunslits with no visibility wasn't the in thing for sycophantic stylists. The nose is still offensive, and the weird two tone models and TRD almost like a parody, but the greenhouse is well-done. Also no catastrophic DLO fail like on the 2015 style.

qbrozen

@greg128 said:
The sticker was $36k and change and wound up paying $34k and change and that included $1500 customer cash from Toyota

So does that mean he paid MSRP (before incentive)? Or did he get a couple hundred off? Or maybe paid a couple hundred over?

qbrozen

I keep pondering driving to carmax and/or the chevy dealer. Just not feeling like making the effort. Would be nice if one of these online stores would just step up and make it easy for me. Lol.
I got injured this past week, so chores are very difficult at the moment, preventing me from buttoning up the Benz. So that’s annoying, too. And sitting around makes me look at cars. Haha.

henryn

qbrozen said:

I keep pondering driving to carmax and/or the chevy dealer. Just not feeling like making the effort. Would be nice if one of these online stores would just step up and make it easy for me. Lol.

I got injured this past week, so chores are very difficult at the moment, preventing me from buttoning up the Benz. So that’s annoying, too. And sitting around makes me look at cars. Haha.

Sorry to hear about your injury, I know what that's like.

Your proposed trip to Carmax -- that's to get a bid on the Camaro?

xwesx

@qbrozen Agreed; I'm sorry that you are injured. I'm beginning to feel like many of us spend at least as much time recovering from injury as we do healthy anymore!

xwesx

I spent most of yesterday replacing the brakes on my Q7. I went ahead and replaced all of the rotors and pads, as well as flushing the brake fluid. Funny enough, I started working on it Saturday, but I ended up not having a tool I needed: M16 triple-square socket for removing the rear brake caliper from the wheel hub. I found a small set (contained M14/16/18) at O'Reilly, so I put everything back together and made a trip to town. By the time I arrived home, it was after 6pm. I switched gears and fabbed up a storage project for the road trip coming up in July.

Starting over on Sunday, it took me six hours to go from start to finish. And, while I was hunting around for a tool that would help me to get out this horrid pins that hold in the front brake pads, I stumbled across this small, pretty, blue case that was tucked into the back of my tool box. Opening it, I found that it was a nice set of triple-square sockets that went from M4 all the way up to M18. And, that's what I get for planning ahead! /facepalm

The last brake work I did was to replace pads at about 60... 5 or so thousand miles. I've put at least 40,000 on them since then, and they all still had 70% or better of the usable pad surface remaining.

xwesx

Oh, and after all that work... I started up the car to go season the brake pads, and I get a dash warning light telling me I have a "brake pad fault." In other words, one (or more) of the pad "sensors" I just installed is not functioning correctly. Argh! I just keep telling myself, "at least it's not an ML63; at least it's not an ML63...."

henryn

xwesx said:

I spent most of yesterday replacing the brakes on my Q7. I went ahead and replaced all of the rotors and pads, as well as flushing the brake fluid. Funny enough, I started working on it Saturday, but I ended up not having a tool I needed: M16 triple-square socket for removing the rear brake caliper from the wheel hub. I found a small set (contained M14/16/18) at O'Reilly, so I put everything back together and made a trip to town. By the time I arrived home, it was after 6pm. I switched gears and fabbed up a storage project for the road trip coming up in July.

Starting over on Sunday, it took me six hours to go from start to finish. And, while I was hunting around for a tool that would help me to get out this horrid pins that hold in the front brake pads, I stumbled across this small, pretty, blue case that was tucked into the back of my tool box. Opening it, I found that it was a nice set of triple-square sockets that went from M4 all the way up to M18. And, that's what I get for planning ahead! /facepalm

The last brake work I did was to replace pads at about 60... 5 or so thousand miles. I've put at least 40,000 on them since then, and they all still had 70% or better of the usable pad surface remaining.

If you had 70% of the brake pads left, why were you messing with them at all?

I just did all 4 brakes on my new (to me) 2019 Pacifica, new pads, new rotors, flush the fluid. I redid these because I had a poor spongy brake pedal, now fixed. Took around 5 hours total, mainly because I didn't have the proper tool to "rotate" in the caliper piston on the rear brakes. I have a set of brake caliper tools, but it didn't have the right piece to fit this Chrysler. After a great deal of fooling around, I discovered I didn't need a tool. Youtube online videos told me how to retract the parking brake before starting the brake service, but did not tell me that negated any need to rotate in the caliper piston, as it was already in.

If I had just looked more closely at the caliper piston I would have realized it was already all the way in. Instead I was focused on following the steps. Lesson learned, pay more attention to what is directly in front of you instead of the steps you think you need to follow.

corvette

@qbrozen - hope you recover quickly from my injury. I am finally cleared to start physical therapy tomorrow after sustaining a stress fracture in January. I'm ready to get back to normal mobility and go on vacation!

xwesx

henryn said:

If you had 70% of the brake pads left, why were you messing with them at all?

I just did all 4 brakes on my new (to me) 2019 Pacifica, new pads, new rotors, flush the fluid. I redid these because I had a poor spongy brake pedal, now fixed. Took around 5 hours total, mainly because I didn't have the proper tool to "rotate" in the caliper piston on the rear brakes. I have a set of brake caliper tools, but it didn't have the right piece to fit this Chrysler. After a great deal of fooling around, I discovered I didn't need a tool. Youtube online videos told me how to retract the parking brake before starting the brake service, but did not tell me that negated any need to rotate in the caliper piston, as it was already in.

If I had just looked more closely at the caliper piston I would have realized it was already all the way in. Instead I was focused on following the steps. Lesson learned, pay more attention to what is directly in front of you instead of the steps you think you need to follow.

Haha, that's the truth!

I replaced them because my front rotors were significantly worn, and I was noticing some pulsating developing that indicated they were beginning to warp. I have never seen rotors worn down as badly as those; I'm thinking they are just a softer metal than others, or maybe just weren't really up to the task of slowing down a 5,600# vehicle for more than 100,000 miles. Anyhow, I figured if I was going to get in there, I'd be thorough. To clarify, I replaced all the rotors, pads, sensors, and fluid; sounds like the same as what you did.

And, I wanted to do it now because I'm going to leave on a long trip in early July, so I wanted to have time to make sure I feel good about the new setup, and it is worn in well, before I leave. I would typically do this type of work during my annual auto maintenance weekend (some call it Independence Day holiday / 4th of July), but that's too close to the trip date.

xwesx

On a related note, I have a new method for flushing brake fluid that is really handy. I doubt I'll ever use my MityVac pump again. It is quite easy to do when you're solo.

Take a quart jar (or tall container of any type, like one of the quart containers that holds brake fluid; I prefer a clear jar), and put a small mount of brake fluid in it (maybe 1/2" or so) - just enough to cover the end of a clear 1/4" hose. Place the other end of the hose over the bleeder valve on one of the wheels (doesn't really matter which), then open the valve. Get in the driver seat, and pump the brakes twenty times.

If you check the hose, you should find that it is full of fluid, there is now probably a 1/2 pint (4oz) or more of fluid in the jar, and the fluid will be somewhat darker (anywhere from golden to light brown - darker yet means you REALLY need to change it!). Now, check the fluid level in the reservoir under the hood, and, when it is nearly empty....

Open up the brake fluid reservoir (under the hood) and place a bottle of new fluid, with a vacuum cap on it, upside down in the reservoir opening. This will ensure that the reservoir remains full without fluid spilling over.... monitor the amount of fluid in the bottle periodically throughout this process so you don't end up running the reservoir dry and introducing air to the lines.

Go back to the driver seat and pump the brakes another 20 times. Check the fluid in the hose. If it looks clear, close the valve, drain the hose, remove it, and move on to the next one. Just repeat at all four wheels and you're done. No air, fully flushed, and ready to go for another 2-3 years! Yeah, I know.... God forbid we might hold onto a car long enough to flush brake fluid once, let alone TWICE! Hahah

At the end, quickly flip the supply container on the reservoir over and close it up, then re-cap your reservoir. If you have leftover fluid, I like to use this as my initial supply for the next time because "they say" you should only used sealed containers, and yet you'll end up flushing a fair bit of new fluid through the lines into the waste container if your flushing it well, so little, if any, of the open container's fluid will end up remaining in the system by the time you're done. For mine, I ended up flushing close to two quarts through (it holds one quart).

corvette

@xwesx with that method, aren't you getting some "backflow" of dirty fluid (and possibly air, at the beginning) when you release the brake pedal? I am sure that if I tried the upside down brake fluid container on top of the reservoir, it would end in disaster!

xwesx

corvette said:

@xwesx with that method, aren't you getting some "backflow" of dirty fluid (and possibly air, at the beginning) when you release the brake pedal? I am sure that if I tried the upside down brake fluid container on top of the reservoir, it would end in disaster!

No, not at all. With the output end of the hose in the fluid at the bottom of the jar, the system only has the option of sucking fluid. And, there's not enough vacuum for that because the air enters through the reservoir end, so the resistance is just too high in the hose (resistance of both the gravity and the fluid). No backflow, no air. It works surprisingly well, and I'm kinda bummed that I didn't think to try this decades ago.

I started to set up the MityVac yesterday, and I Just couldn't bring myself to do it. I could see how much of a hassle it was going to be, so I figured I would try something else.

For the bottle, you need to make sure you have a vacuum nozzle on the end of it (it's like a pointed cap with an opening that allows air in as the reservoir level drops below a determined level - like a "self-watering" dog dish). I imagine any auto parts store would have one for a dollar or two. Otherwise, yes, it could be a mess. But, I was able to make it work even on the Q7, where the reservoir is tucked up near the windshield in an extremely inconvenient location, so I'm sure anyone can make it work. I just had to use some towels to prop it up so it would stay put. On the other cars, it stays fine by itself.

The other option, of course, is to just add fluid after every 20 pumps (or so, depending on reservoir volume). You just need to be very careful to not let it go empty because that will introduce air, then you must flush that entire line out again to purge it.

kyfdx

qbrozen said:

I keep pondering driving to carmax and/or the chevy dealer. Just not feeling like making the effort. Would be nice if one of these online stores would just step up and make it easy for me. Lol.

I got injured this past week, so chores are very difficult at the moment, preventing me from buttoning up the Benz. So that’s annoying, too. And sitting around makes me look at cars. Haha.

Can't you get a Carmax trade-in quote, right here on Edmunds?

ab348

xwesx said:

For the bottle, you need to make sure you have a vacuum nozzle on the end of it (it's like a pointed cap with an opening that allows air in as the reservoir level drops below a determined level - like a "self-watering" dog dish). I imagine any auto parts store would have one for a dollar or two. Otherwise, yes, it could be a mess. But, I was able to make it work even on the Q7, where the reservoir is tucked up near the windshield in an extremely inconvenient location, so I'm sure anyone can make it work. I just had to use some towels to prop it up so it would stay put. On the other cars, it stays fine by itself.

I have never heard of such a cap before now.

henryn

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

This is what I use for one man brake bleeding. Works like a champ, has a “check valve” built in and a magnet on one side to stick to the car.

I leave the master cylinder open, pump 7 or 8 times, add a little brake fluid to the master cylinder, and pump another 7 or 8 times.

28firefighter

@kyfdx said:
Can't you get a Carmax trade-in quote, right here on Edmunds?

Yes, you can. It’s subject to inspection but they honored it on the Outback (not that I took it).

henryn

28firefighter said:

@kyfdx said:

Can't you get a Carmax trade-in quote, right here on Edmunds?

Yes, you can. It’s subject to inspection but they honored it on the Outback (not that I took it).

----------------end quoted material --------------------------------------

If memory serves, @qbrozen has stated previously the various sites wouldn't give him a direct quote for that Camaro, they all said something like "We'll get back to you on that."

A little too new, a little too "special" perhaps.

28firefighter

Ah hah. That might be it. When I put the Wrangler into vroom it took 24 hours for them to come back for the same reason.

xwesx

henryn said:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

This is what I use for one man brake bleeding. Works like a champ, has a “check valve” built in and a magnet on one side to stick to the car.

I leave the master cylinder open, pump 7 or 8 times, add a little brake fluid to the master cylinder, and pump another 7 or 8 times.

That's basically the same thing as my setup on the brake end. Good to know that there is a simple option out there.

And, I'm probably getting the name of that cap all wrong. I'll see if I can find a link for one.

Sandman6472

Second day at my shuttle gig and was solo. Put me in a Prius which was a bit used but drove nicely. Not something I'd ever buy but for shuttle duty, worked just fine. So far, hardest part is clocking in/out on the computer. A bit confusing with the steps needed but eventually, I'll get proficient at it. The rest went quite easily. We closed early at 4 pm so did all pick-ups today. They prefer us to coordinate the drop-offs with the pick-ups while trying to be in the same or close area which makes perfect sense. Why dead head on any trip if not necessary. Just takes some coordinating who's going where and who needs to be picked up. In time, I should get better at the coordination of trips. There were three of us this afternoon and except for about 15 minutes, I was out picking up customers to come get their vehicles.
I think I'm going to like this job to be honest. Both afternoons are times I'd be either napping, watching t v, playing on the computer or out spending money. So why not make a few extra bucks by working another part time gig. I won't miss the wasted time and get to meet some nice folks. I'm all in right now. And those two afternoons will be enough. And from time to time, I won't mind doing a few extra hours on a Sunday but not every week. Originally, they wanted me from 7 to 4 on Sundays but working every week, six days a week, was just more than I wanted. I said I'd do two afternoons only at this point and fully expected them to show me the door. Just the opposite happened, they wanted to know how soon I could start! So, a win/win for us all. And some extra hours occasionally could very well happen down the line.
But very glad I finally did get a shuttle job after so many years of being told no just because I use a cane for mobility issues. For years, it was what kept me back from being hired, something I could see but could not prove 100%. Luckily, I'm finally seen as an asset who just happens to walk with a cane instead of a liability because I walk with a cane. It's been long overdue folks...long overdue!!!

Sandman6472

So hoping the Accent will be ready tomorrow as our kid goes back to work at 3 pm in Miami on Wednesday. I'm sure it'll be done but maybe by Wednesday morning at the latest. That would just mean going into work before going home but doable if necessary. In a perfect world, it'll be done by around 1 pm tomorrow so the girls can go pick it up, check it over and be on their way. Luckily, there wasn't much damage to begin with. The back tail light/back-up light is an easy fix it's the paint work which will take the time. No fenders were bent just a re-spray and blending of the paint is needed. Hopefully it'll turn out as good as the work done on my Golf back in 2018. They blended the blue paint so seamlessly that it's so hard to tell there ever was an accident. No one who has looked has been able to tell. Now, a real professional probably could tell something was done but truthfully, not sure. The work done was really top notch and I still get compliments when it's all shined up about how good it looks.
But just hoping things turn out as we expect tomorrow. For an econobox, her Hyundai Accent is an excellent vehicle and one that I would be happy to own and drive...daily! And who knows, it could happen one day!! Doubtful of course, but have learned in life never to say never!

qbrozen

correct, I can't seem to get actual bids from most places.
@28firefighter , did you get an offer? How much?
Thanks for the well wishes. It's just slipping ribs, but it is super irritating. Not sure how the heck it is supposed to heal when they pop out of place like every 15-20 mins.

stickguy

put on a corset and crank it really tight?

qbrozen

@stickguy said:
put on a corset and crank it really tight?

Unfortunately, they are shifting inward, so wrapping only makes it worse.

stickguy

I guess my "swallow a balloon and blow it up" idea isn't going to fly either?