Saab Maintenance and Repair

Karen_S

Talk about any problems and possible solutions for your Saab here.

stu15

anybody have problem with cold start? I have a 2003 ARC (V6) with 11K miles that sometimes stumbles and sometime actually stalls after it sits for 12 hours. Outside temp doesn't matter ie it does it in summer.

gerber

I've had the car for about 2.5 weeks. The dealer has had it for 2 weeks.

Having troubles with a break screech that they haven't been able to fix yet. Also they are trying to fix a problem with the tyre pressure monitoring system. They have released the car back to me once and I had to turn it back in for the same problems that same day.

Will let you know what the fix is/was if it ever gets fixed.

velliquette

I recently put the 3rd (2nd after the original), or what I thought was the 3rd ENGINE, in my 2000 9-3 convertible turbo which has 64,000 miles. I say "what I thought was the 3rd ENGINE", because after having a local Saab dealer run a complete history on my VIN #, I found out, among other things, that the first owner of the car had the ENGINE REPLACED as well...MAKING IT A TOTAL OF 4 ENGINES IN MY 2000 SAAB.

jgleit

my 2002 saab 9-3 right front parking light and license plate light wont work. I have replaced the fuse, which looked fine. The front light works when I use the right turn signal. What can I do.

maniktala

maniktala

i have saab 9-5 1999 with 71k miles on it. last week, while driving on highway my car just died on me while i was standing in traffic and it wont start after trying to start 5-6 times. i have enough gas so it wasnt gas problem. then it started itself and then again died while i was on traffic lights. is this common problem? dealers couldnt figure out wats the problem with car, coz its not showing any check engine sign. Please heap. they say its not gas pump, it can be crank sensor but they r not sure. so advice to do.

rachael4

I just hit 30k on my 2004 9-3 and was told I have to pay $1,100 for new pads and rotors, that the rotors on the Saab can not be resurfaced and have to be replaced, is this correct?

weiss

I recently acquired a 1995. There was a "low coolant level warning" light on, but the catch tank seemed OK. Anyway, it was topped off, and after two days, the warning appeared on a drive, but temp needle didn't rise. Until a block from home all coolant obviously left the vehicle. I discoverd an odd dead-ended "hose" sprouting from the firewall into the engine bay, which was split. It seemed that was the intention of the hose. There was quite a bit of debris (leaves and such) in the hose, and in the channels leading to it. My question: was the debris the cause of blockage and thereby "protective" blow-off" (better the engine get sprayed than the passengers), or is something potentially more dire going on which the hose was a victim of?
Thank you.
I've been in Alfas for 16 years and this isn't the smoothest transition in the world.

Allen

bons

It's true that the rotors on the Saab and most Euro cars can not be resurfaced/machined and have to be replaced. But to my knowledge you only need to replace the pads every 30k, and pads + rotors every 60k (sooner or later depend on your driving habbit)

skysaab

I chnged my 2003 saab 9-3 all breaks and rotors at 25k and cost me $500 something, can't remember the exactly price I paid.

jay898

I have a 1999 9.5 and my windshield wipers do not go into the park position. When I turn them off they stop in the middle of the windshield. Does anyone know what the problem is?

cocoino

there are many things that can cause this like your alarm system among other things. did you get any message on you SID display?. did it happened while accelerating or breakin or coasting? well, the first question is how mechanically inclined are you and how much work are you willing to do your self? ask the dealer to make a recording of you driving. this is a media card that they put into your car and you drive it for a while and then they can see from the cards recording what you car has been doing and what it has been reacting to like low oxygen or high heat or over boost from your turbo or missing signal from your cam sensor that tells the ecu when to fire the next spark plug........do some reading and ask more question and you will get somewere.....take care.!

christopher35

That sounds a little fishy to me. I have a '96 Buick Riviera, with 171K on the clock that has had to have two sets of rotors front and one in back in during it's long life.
Obviously, this mechanic feels, right or wrong, that the integrity of the rotors will be compromised if he shaves them too much. Ask him how many thousandths he needs to grind them? It usually isn't more than thirty thousandths. I agree you should be able to get at least one resurfacing out of them. Did you experience a lot of steering wheel vibration when stopping? If so, they may be too warped to resurface. Good Luck.

brad7

I have a '99 9-5 that has 87K on it and has been a great car but I recently had a problem with starting, idling, and low power. There's only one local dealer and I got two bad references on them so I'm trying to work on it myself. I have replaced the plugs, cleaned the throttle body, checked the turbo bypass, replaced the air filter, removed and cleaned the crank position sensor but my problem still exist. I verified that it is not in limp home mode. The new plugs seemed to help the idle but the problem still exist. My check engine light has now come on and since I don't have a code extractor who knows what it says. I've seen some post referring to the DI cassette going bad in this car, I just wonder if there is anything else I should check before spending $300-$400 on that part.

jonswede

I recently bought a 2000 9-3 5-door off E-Bay. I have not really put it on the road yet (waiting for spring which is July in Western New York :-).
Wonder if I can get the low-down on any maintenance issues, bulletins, preventive maintenance tips, etc. to help keep this sophistobucket happy. Have driven straight Japanese cars since 1986 when I bought my last bad experience with GM (Irony strikes with GM buying out an honest little fighter jet makers auto div 10 or so years back). Any weak parts, false warnings, early maint tips, anything at all would be greatly appreciated.

Jonswede

saab007

According to mech. my car has a clogged screen. Do I need to rebuilt (complete) engine or just the basics--bearings & seals. Or the option of getting a used engine. Please advised. Thanks1

mahler9th

I am considering buying at 1994 Saab 900s convertible with a manual transmission that is stuck in third gear. Does this mean a new transmission is necessary? Please advise. Thanks

greg73

I was driving our 1999 95 2.3 turbo saab and all was running smooth until we got to the restaurant parking lot. After putting the park for a moment and then into drive the car would not move. It was if the car did not know it was in gear. The car ran great all the way to the restaurant ,about 15 miles from our house.There was no indication of any problem of any kind. We had the car towed to the dealer ship and the ride get's wild from here. They had the car for three days before we heard from them. They said the in and output shaft sensors were bad and were the cause of the problem $ 584.00 worth. I went and got the car left the dealer ship went 1/2 a block and the same thing happen again. They had to tow the car back. They got back with me two and 1/2 weeks later. They said they had there service engineer come and look at the car and test it. Here is what they say they would change the transmission fluid and filter drive the car for 8 to 12 miles and it would not move after you come to a stop. They tried that 3 times, now keep in mind the did not say the had to change the shaft sensors any more. There answer to me is to change the transmission because they claim it burns up transmission fluid causing it not to move any more. Also the say that is what caused the sensors to go bad. Funny to me the did not change the sensors the other 3 times the tested car and done the same problem. I truly think they are just parts changers based on there computer. I talked with several transmission specialist locally and they all think the torque converter is going bad. I am looking for any body who may have had the same or like problem or any help on what could be the honest answer as to what is wrong and what to fix. Thanks to all for any of your help.

gkg680

mahler9th-

I can't answer your question, I'm not much of a gearhead, but I bought a new '83 Saab turbo, 5-speed, in August of '83. In June of '96, after, I believe, 92,000 miles, might have been less, I couldn't shift into reverse.

I sold it for $500 to a vintage car dealer, who didn't want it after his mechanic checked it out, but who was honorable enough to own up to his original offer.
I bought a new '96 900S on Fourth of July weekend, with a 5-speed again. The dealer said he'd give me $500 for my '83 to save the sale of the new one, but he didn't want my old car, which is why I sold it to the vintage car dealer.

You didn't mention how much mileage the '94 has on it, but I'd sure be careful about buying it. I still have my '96 900S, with 71,000 miles on it, but I worry about the transmission. I live in Chicago and although I have a few cross-country trips, trips to Milwaukee and St. Louis, and a lot of expressway driving on the car, there's a great deal of stop-and-go city driving in severe weather on torn-up streets. Saab mechanics over the years have told me that when the transmission goes, it's very difficult to get much more useful life out of the car.

Just one man's opinion. Both my cars were coupe/hatchback models, and I'll miss those, unless Saab starts making them again. My biggest concern is whether or not Saab itself will survive. Best of luck to you, whatever you decide.

Greg in Chicago

saabgurl

2 days ago i drove my car completely smoothly, backed out normally from driveways and parking spaces without any problems. went to move it this morning and will not go in reverse. it is a manual transmission, and sometimes the gears stick, but they are not sticking. i can put it into all other gears and it works perfectly, but when i put it in reverse it acts as if in neutral. i have a mechanic i can go to, but before i do, any idea of what could be wrong?

Sylvia

A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to jfallon@edmunds.com.
Thanks for your consideration,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com

gkg680

saabgurl-
As I mentioned in my earlier post, I'm not a gearhead, but when my car would not move in reverse, the transmission was shot. I could shift into reverse, but when I tried to back up, the car would kick the shifter back into neutral. I'd push the car backwards if I had to, then drive away normally, but I couldn't go backwards any farther than I could push the car.
My car had about 90,000 miles back then, and it was old. I'd suggest you phone a local Saab service guy and ask him, but it sounds like a transmission issue. My 2d Saab now has 71,000 miles, and I worry regularly about that happening again.
Hopefully you'll get better advice than mine, but if you Google "Saab Repair Bulletin Boards", you'll find the ones I used to visit. The Internet is amazing, and you'll run across Saab gurus who can help you.

5555

I had this problem and it is easy to fix. . . . There is a rubber hose connection from the crankcase up to the valve chamber, I forgot what its use is but this hose melted a hole in it under the metal trim cover over the top of the engine. when this was replaced the engine idled normal again and had the giddy-up I was use to. This is an inexpensive part that took 2 years for me to find even at the dealer, I am now having a problem with front suspension, I have changed Bearings in both front wheels, both CV Joints and new tires again,Toyo has been a nightmare for me so now I have Bridgestone Potenza's.

5555

I have had this problem for the past 2+ years and I have wore out tires like no tomorrow, they were Toyo and I got no satisfaction from the dealer so I have moved to Cosco and put Bridgestone Potenza's on. I have changed Wheel Bearings that stopped the vibration but the cause is still there and feels like a balancing problem but many balance's later I cannot get rid of it. I changed both CV Joints but still nothing. It actually feels like wheel hop, is it possible that a shock is weak or something with the McPherson Strut? any ideas out there?

arthurr

My 2004 Saab 9-3 Arc has developed a very annoying problem... After taking it to the dealer for apparent problems that were indicated on the SID infomation center: (Immobilizer failure. Try starting again, Steering wheel locked. Pull out key, turn steering wheel. try again. and finally- Gearbox malfunction. limited performance. Contact Saab dealer.), the dealer replaced some module and it made it so that intermittantly the key wouldn't even turn... Back to the dealer, and he replaced the 'computer'... Worked for a short time... then same problem, couldn't turn the key... back to dealer... replaced and re-programmed the 'remotes' (Keys)... Still, intermittently can't turn the key... -back to the dealer... -he has it now and the service manager is going to drive it for a while to see if he can figure it out... -Any suggestions?

starbird

That's interesting, my car is currently at the dealer with a similar problem. Some boards I've seen says that the 42-pin connector underneath the battery can become loose and that can be the problem. Hopefully I'll have some answers on Monday.

tinab

I have the exact same problem with my Saab 900s - around 90,000 miles. It is weird tho...intermittent...sometimes if I put it in 1st gear and move forward a few inches, then I can get it into reverse. Other times - works fine. HELP - I like the car but am not sure if transmission or shift box issue. Brought to a Saab gut and he said there is some shifter box that has a plastic peice that would be about $250 in parts and labor to replace but he said he's not sure if it's that or the transmission which would be about 1000.

Mr_Shiftright

I think I'd go for the linkage fix if it is really annoying but if this is just an intermittent problem with first and reverse only I'd personally learn to live with it than dig into the transmission. Maybe you have a bent shift fork or something. Once you open it up, who knows what you'll find? What are you going to do with your transmission spread out all over the floor? Say "no"? And then of course you should put in a new clutch since you'll have the old one right there staring at you, and you'd be foolish not to do the clutch master and clutch slave cylinders since they are so integral to good clutch operation. You could run up $2,000 easily on this. So I'd say $250 fine but for this type of problem I'd go no further, unless it became truly aggravating. The car is getting old and Saab transmissions are not generally the most robust or long-lived anyway.

tinab

I have a 1997 Saab 900s manual transmission with about 90,000 miles. Intermittent issue going into reverse. Sometimes if I put it in 1st and move a few inches forward - it will then go into reverse. Otherwise - I have to try to get into 5th and then jam it really hard into reverse. Other times work normal. The saab guy I went to said there is a linkage box that could potentially be the problem as it had a plastic piece in it and replacement part has metal. He quoted me around 250-300 part and labor but couldn't guarantee it was that. Otherwise he said a transmission job for about 900-1000. Any thoughts? I had heard these cars run forever and I am getting nervous from what I read on the website....

Thx for any help you can provide...

Mr_Shiftright

See my reply # 32.

Mr_Shiftright

No, that's a hose for drain off of water from the fresh air vents. Nothing ot do with this problem, although you should clean out those hoses or replace them if you don't want a fish tank under your windshield wipers.

If you have an overheating Saab, you have to look at the head gasket for openers....fill the coolant and have the cooling system pressure tested. Your heat gauge will not work if there is no coolant in the system (it can't read "steam" temperature, it needs coolant to touch it). If your car severely overheated, this often results in head gasket or cylinder head damage, so have this checked carefully.

Mr_Shiftright

Very likely an overhaul, perhaps not an entirely new transmission. I hope you are getting this car very cheap, since the trans overhaul is somewhat costly ($2,000?)....so I wouldn't pay more than perhaps $1,000 or $1,500 for the car, since you will no doubt want to put a new clutch in it while the trans is out, and certainly a new clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. If you can't buy the car this cheap, you might as well just go shop for one that is totally together mechanically, as they are not that expensive. Saab resale on these older models tends to be quite low.

Also on this car check for the back window separating from the top and for water stains at the back window---also for wear spots above the rear windows where the top mechanism bolts dig through the top and ruin in. Also do a compression test as these cars are prone to head gasket problems. Check also for leaking power steering racks (red oil dripping at the firewall, down below) and check for excessive tire wear at the right front tire. If this is a turbo model it will eat front tires for breakfast if you don't rotate them religiously. Also if a turbo check for blue smoke at cold start-up (turbo seals are going) and for excessive whine from the turbo. Also play with all the switches and make sure the windows go up and down quickly and aren't dragging and that the AC works.

If all this makes you hold your breath, that's the reason I'm writing it.

mibell1

sorry i just saw your post
my 1999 9-3 saab (which i am original owner) fits fits this. Not only did I complete all sceduled maint. the car only has 39,000 miles. May 20 2005 started spitting white smoke, during and after warranty had many unexpected (expensive) repairs, cannot even get $1500 on a trade in. will never buy another SAAB.

lainy

I recently had a similar problem with our 2002 95. Fortunately the car is still under the manufacturer warranty. I was at a stop light. Car ran great until I was at a stop light and then the car stalled out and had to be towed to the authorized saab service provider. The problem was that the ECM (engine control module) had failed.. The service provider loaded the new upgrade software to fix the issue. You might see if that might be the problem. Good luck

plo1

I have had my car to the dealer 5x in as many weeks for the engine light coming on. I have been told that the gas cap is not on tight and fumes return to the engine. It was on for 2 days and I got gas 3 days before the light came on. I have 41,000 miles. and never had this before. Any one else having this problem.

starbird

Well my 2003 Saab 9-3 is still awaiting a part at the dealer. I'm quite annoyed about that. Is this a record? How long does it usually take to get a speed sensor in?

smies

My '95 900 convertible has the same problem every summer.. as soon as the temp hits around 70+, it has big problems starting once the engine is warmed up. Generally, it starts ok after an overnight rest, but if I run it 10 minutes or so and let it sit in 70+ temp weather, it will not start, or is extremely difficult to start. The Saab dealer has tried a multitude of fixes from crankshaft sensors to many other things. This time after 6 weeks, thats right ..SIX weeks in the dealers shop he replaced the air mass sensor and claimed it was fixed. I drove it home ayesterday and went back out to start it an hour later and it wouldn't go. The battery cranks strong, no issues there. Please help!!!

timo888

1993 900S automatic with 135,000 miles. Last night driving home, my teenage son said the car lost power-steering several times within the space of a few minutes. The wheel became hard to turn in either direction, and when he tried to move it left and right, it made some clicking noises. He turned hard on the steering wheel and it seemed to him to get easier to turn, the farther he turned it. The fluid is almost full. The engine he said was running smoothly. No warning lights came on. Are these symptoms enough to say what is causing the problem. Is the power steering rack failing?

saabingman

I own a 1994 900S NG. I was driving at about 45 mph, with 1/4 tank of gas, at a constant speed, with light foot on the pedal, and, suddenly, the engine stopped working. I went to the side of the road, and started the car again. No problems starting up. Pressed on the gas pedal. There was a beginning of acceleration. Then, nothing. Then, it kicked in again, then nothing. All of this occured with the same pressure on the gas pedal. It was hot outside...about 91 degrees farenheit. Then, the car started running semi-okay, with periodic non-responsiveness to the gas pedal. Then, at lights, it started stalling. The engine would start up, stall, start up, stall, and keep doing this. Very frustrating, no doubt, for the people behind me. I managed to get it home, however.

The next day, in the morning, it was about 74 degrees farenheit. It started okay, drove okay for a bit, but, as soon as it reached normal operating temperature (somewhere in the middle of the temperature gauge) it started the stalling out business again. The engine would suddenly stop accelerating, like the day before, and started to stall at idle at traffic lights. After a few incidents, I learned to get it moving again, by pressing on the gas pedal and the brake at the same time, keeping the engine idling a little faster than normal. This allowed me to pull away from the light, but, once again, as I tried to bring the car up to the normal 45 mph, erratic pulses of non-responsiveness continued, periodically, as I stepped on the gas pedal.

Help!!! Does anyone have an idea about what is going on with my car, and why it is doing this?

smies

sounds like my issue above in #42 to an extent......the dealer agreed to look at it again.....7th/8th time......when they diagnose the problem for the tenth time incorrectly i will advise so you avoid that pitfall

rickj1

My Saab is experiencing an erratic idle with occasional stalling and infrequent hard starts. The idle will tend to drop significantly while I'm stopped in traffic or with the clutch/trans in neutral. Then it will race up to about 2,000 rpm and settle back to about 900 - 1,000 rpm. This starts to happen typically within 5 to 10 minutes starting the vehicle. Occasionally the car will die, or sometimes I will feel hesitation at driving speeds. The dealership has replaced the crankshaft sensor and I have not noticed any improvement, although I have not experienced the hard starts since. The dealership recognizes the problem, but they don't know what to do.
I have read the entry by "brad7" on April 9th and the response from "5555" on May 27th. I have sent this to the dealership and I am awaiting their verdict. However, I am not sure if we are describing the same problem.
If anyone knows of anything, I'd certainly appreciate any feedback.

ernewell

Hi,

I've had extraordinary problems with my 2000 95 wagon - both while under warranty and after. Extensive oil leaking at 30,000 miles; engine pulled and head replaced at least three times, blown exhaust manifold, manufacturer's defects to exhaust bolts, turbo disconnecting all at under 40,000 miles... At 51,000 miles, the car failed completely due to a defective DI module. Now, at 55,000 miles, the car's turbo appears to have seized as it will not accelerate over 25mph on a modest freeway incline.

Saab Cars helped - while the car was under warranty. One of the technicians at my local dealership said - 'Lady, they aren't going to solve the problems with your car until the warranty is up!' Needless to say, he no longer works there probuablly because he was telling the truth.

Before this most recent engine failure, I called my local dealership's new Manager of Service to ask for clarification regarding Saab Car's May 17, 2005 letter warning of possible engine defects to my model and year which might lead to 'Oil Sludge' . Instead of explaining the possible problems and remedies, he told me that: 'Saab had no obligation to me... until the engine fails completely... this conversation is over'... then he hung up!

Gee, Saab Car's letter about 'Oil Sludge' didn't mention anything about 'complete engine failure'! The letter offered 'Special Insurance' for qualifying vehicals... It did not sound like an 'engine recall'.

Ten days after the Dealership's refusal to explain a few simple questions, the car fails on the freeway. This dealer is now refusing to service my car. Saab USA's customer Service department appeared to help me when the car was under warrenty; but, now they are not responding to my correspondences concerning this new failure and the Dealership's Manager's utterly rude behavior.

It's enough! My car's repair history indicates that my particular Saab is, was and will always be a Lemon. This is the most wasteful investment I've ever made. This is the 14th new Saab that either my family, extended family or close friends have purchased over the last two decades. Saab must no longer have any interest in customer loyalty.

I would like to know if any other Saab owners with similar models have had similar problems - both with the car and with Customer Care.

I do not believe in using the legal system until there is no other recourse. My local Saab dealership and Saab Cars have given me no choice but to pursue this matter through the proper legal channels. Has anyone else out there sued Saab because of similar problems? Could you suggest a law firm that is familiar with these kinds of conflicts?

I appreciate any information you could provide! Thanks for your attention!

ernewell

ernewell

mibell1,

look at my post on 07/13/05. Not only will I never purchase a Saab again, my family, extended family and friends who have purchased 14 new Saabs in the last two decades (starting w/ my father's first purchase in Sweden) will also never purchase a Saab again.
I figure 14 Saabs x new purchase price + financing &/or lease costs + all the service and maintanence might not equal one of their top executives quarterly salaries.... So, they simply do not care when they sell defective cars.

I mentioned in my post under 'Problems and Solutions',that I am the last person to resort to the legal system for a remedy; but, Saab has taken my 40K, served up 5 years of anguish and refused to address the Oil Sludge possibility - which caused my car to fail in a very dangerous location. What do I get for my hard earned money and diligence with regular and extra Services? A Liability Lemon.

I am looking to pursue the proper legal remedies that might be available. If any other Saab owners have done the same or are considering the same, I'd like to hear about your experiences.

ernewell

ernewell

You may have to wait abit longer to make the record books...

While under warrenty, my 2000 95 wagon was in and out of the dealer for persistent oil leaks over a 4 month period. Out of 120 days, I only had the car for the equivalent of two weeks. The longest stay in the shop was 42 days. When they returned it that time what was the problem? They had forgotten to reconnect the turbo after a previous repair. 42 days to reconnect a turbo that they'd 'forgotten' about? Anyway, the oil leak still persisted and it was back in the shop in a matter of days.

I should have just left it there!

ernewell

Make certain that you get a copy of Saab Car's May 17 2005 letter regarding possible engine parts defects which refer to your year's model #. The letter refers to 'Special Insurance' My experience is that this is a very serious engine defect.

jtbecke

i have a 96 900 se turbo convertible with about 60,000 miles on it. it recently started giving me trouble when i try to start it. it take a bit longer than normal to turn over and after it does, it feels weak, and the front end seems to shake under my feet. if i press the gas, it goes away somewhat, but i'm worried. any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

rubin2

My check ehgine light is on too! Did you ever bring it back? Mine has 52000 and out of warranty. Did they fix it?

ayoungbar

I have had same problem. They always say problem is from gas cap not being on tight. Last time I didn't have time to get to dealer and after about a week and another fill-up, it went off on it's own.

ayoungbar

Have ongoing problems with automatic locking and unlocking since first bought car nearly a year ago. Fobs have been switched out by dealer but that has not fixed the problem. I have to set off alarm and use actual key to unlock door. Sometimes the driver's door will unlock but not the other doors or trunk. Last week I was actually locked inside the car when the auto door switch would not release driver's door lock. Yesterday walked to parking garage and found the headlights on--can't imagine how that could be as they are always set on automatic and I had not even gotten the key out to click off the alarm. Has anyone out there experienced similar problems.?? (this is a 2004 9.3 aero)

starbird

Well, after 29 days at the dealer they got permission from Saab not to continue to wait for the part to turn up, but to simply replace the entire transmission. Quite please at getting my car back and it seems fine. It must have cost them a fortune in car rental costs as our dealer rents loaners from enterprise (parts are under warrenty).

I did notice that they replaced the seatbelts at the same time. Apparently there's a recall on those. Glad to get my car back. I missed it.