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Saab Maintenance and Repair

Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
edited March 2014 in Saab
Talk about any problems and possible solutions for your Saab here.


  • stu15stu15 Posts: 9
    anybody have problem with cold start? I have a 2003 ARC (V6) with 11K miles that sometimes stumbles and sometime actually stalls after it sits for 12 hours. Outside temp doesn't matter ie it does it in summer.
  • gerbergerber Posts: 4
    I've had the car for about 2.5 weeks. The dealer has had it for 2 weeks.

    Having troubles with a break screech that they haven't been able to fix yet. Also they are trying to fix a problem with the tyre pressure monitoring system. They have released the car back to me once and I had to turn it back in for the same problems that same day.

    Will let you know what the fix is/was if it ever gets fixed.
  • I recently put the 3rd (2nd after the original), or what I thought was the 3rd ENGINE, in my 2000 9-3 convertible turbo which has 64,000 miles. I say "what I thought was the 3rd ENGINE", because after having a local Saab dealer run a complete history on my VIN #, I found out, among other things, that the first owner of the car had the ENGINE REPLACED as well...MAKING IT A TOTAL OF 4 ENGINES IN MY 2000 SAAB.
  • jgleitjgleit Posts: 1
    my 2002 saab 9-3 right front parking light and license plate light wont work. I have replaced the fuse, which looked fine. The front light works when I use the right turn signal. What can I do.
  • i have saab 9-5 1999 with 71k miles on it. last week, while driving on highway my car just died on me while i was standing in traffic and it wont start after trying to start 5-6 times. i have enough gas so it wasnt gas problem. then it started itself and then again died while i was on traffic lights. is this common problem? dealers couldnt figure out wats the problem with car, coz its not showing any check engine sign. Please heap. they say its not gas pump, it can be crank sensor but they r not sure. so advice to do.
  • rachael4rachael4 Posts: 1
    I just hit 30k on my 2004 9-3 and was told I have to pay $1,100 for new pads and rotors, that the rotors on the Saab can not be resurfaced and have to be replaced, is this correct?
  • weissweiss Posts: 1
    I recently acquired a 1995. There was a "low coolant level warning" light on, but the catch tank seemed OK. Anyway, it was topped off, and after two days, the warning appeared on a drive, but temp needle didn't rise. Until a block from home all coolant obviously left the vehicle. I discoverd an odd dead-ended "hose" sprouting from the firewall into the engine bay, which was split. It seemed that was the intention of the hose. There was quite a bit of debris (leaves and such) in the hose, and in the channels leading to it. My question: was the debris the cause of blockage and thereby "protective" blow-off" (better the engine get sprayed than the passengers), or is something potentially more dire going on which the hose was a victim of?
    Thank you.
    I've been in Alfas for 16 years and this isn't the smoothest transition in the world.

  • bonsbons Posts: 45
    It's true that the rotors on the Saab and most Euro cars can not be resurfaced/machined and have to be replaced. But to my knowledge you only need to replace the pads every 30k, and pads + rotors every 60k (sooner or later depend on your driving habbit)
  • skysaabskysaab Posts: 32
    I chnged my 2003 saab 9-3 all breaks and rotors at 25k and cost me $500 something, can't remember the exactly price I paid.
  • jay898jay898 Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 9.5 and my windshield wipers do not go into the park position. When I turn them off they stop in the middle of the windshield. Does anyone know what the problem is?
  • cocoinococoino Posts: 1
    there are many things that can cause this like your alarm system among other things. did you get any message on you SID display?. did it happened while accelerating or breakin or coasting? well, the first question is how mechanically inclined are you and how much work are you willing to do your self? ask the dealer to make a recording of you driving. this is a media card that they put into your car and you drive it for a while and then they can see from the cards recording what you car has been doing and what it has been reacting to like low oxygen or high heat or over boost from your turbo or missing signal from your cam sensor that tells the ecu when to fire the next spark some reading and ask more question and you will get somewere.....take care.!
  • That sounds a little fishy to me. I have a '96 Buick Riviera, with 171K on the clock that has had to have two sets of rotors front and one in back in during it's long life.
    Obviously, this mechanic feels, right or wrong, that the integrity of the rotors will be compromised if he shaves them too much. Ask him how many thousandths he needs to grind them? It usually isn't more than thirty thousandths. I agree you should be able to get at least one resurfacing out of them. Did you experience a lot of steering wheel vibration when stopping? If so, they may be too warped to resurface. Good Luck.
  • brad7brad7 Posts: 1
    I have a '99 9-5 that has 87K on it and has been a great car but I recently had a problem with starting, idling, and low power. There's only one local dealer and I got two bad references on them so I'm trying to work on it myself. I have replaced the plugs, cleaned the throttle body, checked the turbo bypass, replaced the air filter, removed and cleaned the crank position sensor but my problem still exist. I verified that it is not in limp home mode. The new plugs seemed to help the idle but the problem still exist. My check engine light has now come on and since I don't have a code extractor who knows what it says. I've seen some post referring to the DI cassette going bad in this car, I just wonder if there is anything else I should check before spending $300-$400 on that part.
  • jonswedejonswede Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2000 9-3 5-door off E-Bay. I have not really put it on the road yet (waiting for spring which is July in Western New York :-).
    Wonder if I can get the low-down on any maintenance issues, bulletins, preventive maintenance tips, etc. to help keep this sophistobucket happy. Have driven straight Japanese cars since 1986 when I bought my last bad experience with GM (Irony strikes with GM buying out an honest little fighter jet makers auto div 10 or so years back). Any weak parts, false warnings, early maint tips, anything at all would be greatly appreciated.

  • saab007saab007 Posts: 1
    According to mech. my car has a clogged screen. Do I need to rebuilt (complete) engine or just the basics--bearings & seals. Or the option of getting a used engine. Please advised. Thanks1
  • mahler9thmahler9th Posts: 1
    I am considering buying at 1994 Saab 900s convertible with a manual transmission that is stuck in third gear. Does this mean a new transmission is necessary? Please advise. Thanks
  • greg73greg73 Posts: 1
    I was driving our 1999 95 2.3 turbo saab and all was running smooth until we got to the restaurant parking lot. After putting the park for a moment and then into drive the car would not move. It was if the car did not know it was in gear. The car ran great all the way to the restaurant ,about 15 miles from our house.There was no indication of any problem of any kind. We had the car towed to the dealer ship and the ride get's wild from here. They had the car for three days before we heard from them. They said the in and output shaft sensors were bad and were the cause of the problem $ 584.00 worth. I went and got the car left the dealer ship went 1/2 a block and the same thing happen again. They had to tow the car back. They got back with me two and 1/2 weeks later. They said they had there service engineer come and look at the car and test it. Here is what they say they would change the transmission fluid and filter drive the car for 8 to 12 miles and it would not move after you come to a stop. They tried that 3 times, now keep in mind the did not say the had to change the shaft sensors any more. There answer to me is to change the transmission because they claim it burns up transmission fluid causing it not to move any more. Also the say that is what caused the sensors to go bad. Funny to me the did not change the sensors the other 3 times the tested car and done the same problem. I truly think they are just parts changers based on there computer. I talked with several transmission specialist locally and they all think the torque converter is going bad. I am looking for any body who may have had the same or like problem or any help on what could be the honest answer as to what is wrong and what to fix. Thanks to all for any of your help.
  • gkg680gkg680 Posts: 25

    I can't answer your question, I'm not much of a gearhead, but I bought a new '83 Saab turbo, 5-speed, in August of '83. In June of '96, after, I believe, 92,000 miles, might have been less, I couldn't shift into reverse.

    I sold it for $500 to a vintage car dealer, who didn't want it after his mechanic checked it out, but who was honorable enough to own up to his original offer.
    I bought a new '96 900S on Fourth of July weekend, with a 5-speed again. The dealer said he'd give me $500 for my '83 to save the sale of the new one, but he didn't want my old car, which is why I sold it to the vintage car dealer.

    You didn't mention how much mileage the '94 has on it, but I'd sure be careful about buying it. I still have my '96 900S, with 71,000 miles on it, but I worry about the transmission. I live in Chicago and although I have a few cross-country trips, trips to Milwaukee and St. Louis, and a lot of expressway driving on the car, there's a great deal of stop-and-go city driving in severe weather on torn-up streets. Saab mechanics over the years have told me that when the transmission goes, it's very difficult to get much more useful life out of the car.

    Just one man's opinion. Both my cars were coupe/hatchback models, and I'll miss those, unless Saab starts making them again. My biggest concern is whether or not Saab itself will survive. Best of luck to you, whatever you decide.

    Greg in Chicago
  • saabgurlsaabgurl Posts: 1
    2 days ago i drove my car completely smoothly, backed out normally from driveways and parking spaces without any problems. went to move it this morning and will not go in reverse. it is a manual transmission, and sometimes the gears stick, but they are not sticking. i can put it into all other gears and it works perfectly, but when i put it in reverse it acts as if in neutral. i have a mechanic i can go to, but before i do, any idea of what could be wrong?
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to [email protected]
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
  • gkg680gkg680 Posts: 25
    As I mentioned in my earlier post, I'm not a gearhead, but when my car would not move in reverse, the transmission was shot. I could shift into reverse, but when I tried to back up, the car would kick the shifter back into neutral. I'd push the car backwards if I had to, then drive away normally, but I couldn't go backwards any farther than I could push the car.
    My car had about 90,000 miles back then, and it was old. I'd suggest you phone a local Saab service guy and ask him, but it sounds like a transmission issue. My 2d Saab now has 71,000 miles, and I worry regularly about that happening again.
    Hopefully you'll get better advice than mine, but if you Google "Saab Repair Bulletin Boards", you'll find the ones I used to visit. The Internet is amazing, and you'll run across Saab gurus who can help you.
  • 55555555 Posts: 2
    I had this problem and it is easy to fix. . . . There is a rubber hose connection from the crankcase up to the valve chamber, I forgot what its use is but this hose melted a hole in it under the metal trim cover over the top of the engine. when this was replaced the engine idled normal again and had the giddy-up I was use to. This is an inexpensive part that took 2 years for me to find even at the dealer, I am now having a problem with front suspension, I have changed Bearings in both front wheels, both CV Joints and new tires again,Toyo has been a nightmare for me so now I have Bridgestone Potenza's.
  • 55555555 Posts: 2
    I have had this problem for the past 2+ years and I have wore out tires like no tomorrow, they were Toyo and I got no satisfaction from the dealer so I have moved to Cosco and put Bridgestone Potenza's on. I have changed Wheel Bearings that stopped the vibration but the cause is still there and feels like a balancing problem but many balance's later I cannot get rid of it. I changed both CV Joints but still nothing. It actually feels like wheel hop, is it possible that a shock is weak or something with the McPherson Strut? any ideas out there?
  • arthurrarthurr Posts: 1
    My 2004 Saab 9-3 Arc has developed a very annoying problem... After taking it to the dealer for apparent problems that were indicated on the SID infomation center: (Immobilizer failure. Try starting again, Steering wheel locked. Pull out key, turn steering wheel. try again. and finally- Gearbox malfunction. limited performance. Contact Saab dealer.), the dealer replaced some module and it made it so that intermittantly the key wouldn't even turn... Back to the dealer, and he replaced the 'computer'... Worked for a short time... then same problem, couldn't turn the key... back to dealer... replaced and re-programmed the 'remotes' (Keys)... Still, intermittently can't turn the key... -back to the dealer... -he has it now and the service manager is going to drive it for a while to see if he can figure it out... -Any suggestions?
  • starbirdstarbird Posts: 38
    That's interesting, my car is currently at the dealer with a similar problem. Some boards I've seen says that the 42-pin connector underneath the battery can become loose and that can be the problem. Hopefully I'll have some answers on Monday.
  • tinabtinab Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem with my Saab 900s - around 90,000 miles. It is weird tho...intermittent...sometimes if I put it in 1st gear and move forward a few inches, then I can get it into reverse. Other times - works fine. HELP - I like the car but am not sure if transmission or shift box issue. Brought to a Saab gut and he said there is some shifter box that has a plastic peice that would be about $250 in parts and labor to replace but he said he's not sure if it's that or the transmission which would be about 1000.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think I'd go for the linkage fix if it is really annoying but if this is just an intermittent problem with first and reverse only I'd personally learn to live with it than dig into the transmission. Maybe you have a bent shift fork or something. Once you open it up, who knows what you'll find? What are you going to do with your transmission spread out all over the floor? Say "no"? And then of course you should put in a new clutch since you'll have the old one right there staring at you, and you'd be foolish not to do the clutch master and clutch slave cylinders since they are so integral to good clutch operation. You could run up $2,000 easily on this. So I'd say $250 fine but for this type of problem I'd go no further, unless it became truly aggravating. The car is getting old and Saab transmissions are not generally the most robust or long-lived anyway.
  • tinabtinab Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Saab 900s manual transmission with about 90,000 miles. Intermittent issue going into reverse. Sometimes if I put it in 1st and move a few inches forward - it will then go into reverse. Otherwise - I have to try to get into 5th and then jam it really hard into reverse. Other times work normal. The saab guy I went to said there is a linkage box that could potentially be the problem as it had a plastic piece in it and replacement part has metal. He quoted me around 250-300 part and labor but couldn't guarantee it was that. Otherwise he said a transmission job for about 900-1000. Any thoughts? I had heard these cars run forever and I am getting nervous from what I read on the website....

    Thx for any help you can provide...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    See my reply # 32.
This discussion has been closed.