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Saab Maintenance and Repair
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As for the battery, without load testing you really still don't know anything. Measuring surface voltage doesn't tell you much.
After the honeymoon period of ownership, and naturally after the extended warranty expired, my 1999 Saab attempted to commit suicide - pushing ME to the edge. Although pricey to maintain, I had previously leased a Plymouth Breeze that had cost me $3,000 in the final lease year, so at first I rationalized and reconciled myself to supporting the car on the premise that spread over time the money was actually similar. But, then the mechanical work became more steady and PROHIBITIVELY expensive, and then after I had plunked down $1,200 in repairs, the air conditioning was supposedly in need of replacing - not worth it in a 7 year old vehicle.
I spent the hot summer only driving in the evenings and was crazed about fixing the car after so much expenditure - and I wished that fervor had been present so much earlier! I found off-beat mechanics, located in odd areas, and these people really knew their stuff. Mechanic find number 1 told me he couldn't fix the problem, but was sure it involved my 'baffle' (who knew I had one?) and after a 35 minute consult in his barn, the gentleman refused to take payment. I stopped at a place with delivery, and sent him lunch. Mechanic number Two explained the issues in more detail, told me what he would be able to do, and after $140.00 then referred me onto Mechanic Number 3, who had actually designed a part to resolve the repetitive a/c issue; and this fix costing me approx. $250.00 with assorted other minor issues, as well (he charged my remotes for Free and fixed another lock issue that he said took 3 seconds, declining charges for that as well. So, for approx. $400.00 my car was set and blowing chilly air again!
Since then, I have been able to remember why I so loved my Saab – and what a relief! Certainly, the constant financial pressure and stress do detract from any ability to appreciate the car, and I had come to scoff whenever anyone had the temerity to compliment or admire my choice of vehicle. So, having the right mechanical team changed everything - ownership was no longer so onerous. And, I live in a city suburb, and had not thought there were that many mechanics out there, until I began asking everyone, everywhere I went – it only takes one good lead & heaps of patient trying my came at the bargain price of a cup of coffee and a scone at a local bakery.
Wish I could say this story of love re-discovered ends happily, but after adding a new set of all-weather tires and a tune-up this Fall, my Saab was mortally injured by an inexperienced teenage driver and I'm now pounding the pavements looking for a replacement car with that ‘Saab feel’ - I actually looked at a model with 140,000 miles on it that had been 'rebuilt,' so depressed am I at the offerings out there. Would I buy another Saab? Unlikely, but mostly because the newer models are smaller than my hatchback, and all the standard features are now add-ons, boosting the purchase price too high. Sigh. So, if you are able, find that special someone or someones that have REAL MECHANICAL knowledge, and you will be less stressed and able to once again luxuriate in the Saab & its features. All is not lost, just hard to find!
- Good Luck ALL!
Also just bad engine metallurgy could cause such a premature piston failure.
Anyway the clutch was new(less than 800 miles) and died a quick and painful death. I was told by a Saab technician that the clutch on this particular turbo model is of the weak variety and even drivers with considerable manual transmission experience have had trouble with burning it out before the standard 60,000 miles that a normal clutch is supposed to deliver. So given that, if I do decide to replace it($1k), I would be interested in finding a heavy duty clutch that can accept a fair amount of punishment from a second rate operator. I know it would be a big seller.
Well, you know the drill now. Easy does it. I'd like to see that old clutch plate and pressure plate, I would I would.
What puzzles me is that you should have had a lot of warning that the clutch was going out---plenty of slippage, and a real change in the feel of the clutch pedal and in the smoothness of the shifts.
YOU dont mention anything about white smoke coming out from underneath the hood, though. That's when I had it in first gear so I would imagine that gear is fried.
Also, the shifter linkage is loose-seems to have too much play. But the clutch pedal still has pressure-springs back when depressed to the floorboard.
I haven't had a chance to test whether the clutch will engage 2nd gear; I know 1st gear is dead, though. AND there is no way to get the shifter to engage the reverse gear. This is probably serious stuff I am faced with.
Well maybe you DO need some good instruction in shifting. Sounds like you're not exactly a ballet dancer on those pedals
Good luck with repairs and see if you can get someone with good experience to check you out on the controls---to make sure you're doing things right.
As you can see the friction disc has exploded and the pressure plate is beat up pretty badly. This clutch had less than 800 miles on it before this happened. I am hoping you can provide some sort of insightful commentary about the likely cause. If not, well ok then. Nothing lost.
I am curious, though, why it got this bad. The car must have been slipping, burning, etc. for a while? Or was this one catastrophic moment in time?
I was hoping to see the pressure plate in pieces. That would indicate defective part, since the driver really couldn't do that.
But the driver could destroy a clutch disk, as shown in your photos--but he'd have to be kind of crazy. Are you crazy? :P