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Saab Maintenance and Repair

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think so as long as the regulator is the built-in type that comes with the alternator.

    As for the battery, without load testing you really still don't know anything. Measuring surface voltage doesn't tell you much.
  • bankrupt2bankrupt2 Member Posts: 2
    If you still own your Saab, and enjoyed it initially, HANG IN THERE!

    After the honeymoon period of ownership, and naturally after the extended warranty expired, my 1999 Saab attempted to commit suicide - pushing ME to the edge. Although pricey to maintain, I had previously leased a Plymouth Breeze that had cost me $3,000 in the final lease year, so at first I rationalized and reconciled myself to supporting the car on the premise that spread over time the money was actually similar. But, then the mechanical work became more steady and PROHIBITIVELY expensive, and then after I had plunked down $1,200 in repairs, the air conditioning was supposedly in need of replacing - not worth it in a 7 year old vehicle.

    I spent the hot summer only driving in the evenings and was crazed about fixing the car after so much expenditure - and I wished that fervor had been present so much earlier! I found off-beat mechanics, located in odd areas, and these people really knew their stuff. Mechanic find number 1 told me he couldn't fix the problem, but was sure it involved my 'baffle' (who knew I had one?) and after a 35 minute consult in his barn, the gentleman refused to take payment. I stopped at a place with delivery, and sent him lunch. Mechanic number Two explained the issues in more detail, told me what he would be able to do, and after $140.00 then referred me onto Mechanic Number 3, who had actually designed a part to resolve the repetitive a/c issue; and this fix costing me approx. $250.00 with assorted other minor issues, as well (he charged my remotes for Free and fixed another lock issue that he said took 3 seconds, declining charges for that as well. So, for approx. $400.00 my car was set and blowing chilly air again!

    Since then, I have been able to remember why I so loved my Saab – and what a relief! Certainly, the constant financial pressure and stress do detract from any ability to appreciate the car, and I had come to scoff whenever anyone had the temerity to compliment or admire my choice of vehicle. So, having the right mechanical team changed everything - ownership was no longer so onerous. And, I live in a city suburb, and had not thought there were that many mechanics out there, until I began asking everyone, everywhere I went – it only takes one good lead & heaps of patient trying…my came at the bargain price of a cup of coffee and a scone at a local bakery.

    Wish I could say this story of love re-discovered ends happily, but after adding a new set of all-weather tires and a tune-up this Fall, my Saab was mortally injured by an inexperienced teenage driver and I'm now pounding the pavements looking for a replacement car with that ‘Saab feel’ - I actually looked at a model with 140,000 miles on it that had been 'rebuilt,' so depressed am I at the offerings out there. Would I buy another Saab? Unlikely, but mostly because the newer models are smaller than my hatchback, and all the standard features are now add-ons, boosting the purchase price too high. Sigh. So, if you are able, find that special someone or someones that have REAL MECHANICAL knowledge, and you will be less stressed and able to once again luxuriate in the Saab & its features. All is not lost, just hard to find!

    - Good Luck ALL!
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    I have been fighting for months to hold on to my 1996 900 Turbo. The heater and AC are still performing well. Ditto for the original transmission. Exhaust system could be suspect, though. The engine is still strong at 120K. But I agree with you; finding the good mechanic is the name of the game. Yes, and I am going to need Rotsa Ruck!
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Does anyone know how to remove this danged alternator? I think I have to unbolt the idler pulley by accessing the bolts from underneath the car. Also think the alternator has to come out from the bottom after the exhaust system is cleared away. Am I getting warm????
  • flyndrive1flyndrive1 Member Posts: 6
    Keep incredible records and do not think Saab will honor the warranty. You are at the mercy of Saab. You will need to not only prove you changed the oil at recommended intervals, but will also have to show you used the recommended oil. The Saab rep told me that a cracked piston was the result of bad fuel, even though they acknowledged there was sludge in the engine a mere 500 miles after an oil change. I have never run less than Premium fuel an have always run the recommended oil at recommended intervals, but my engine failed at 63,000 miles. Now that I have located a used engine at considerable expense, I will contemplate the lawsuit, but it may not be cost effective. As for me, this was my second and last Saab. I hope Saab goes bankrupt. :lemon:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Cracked pistons probably are the result of detonation, but that's not necessarily the result of bad fuel....a malfunction in the engine's timing system could also cause this. The connection between sludge and a cracked piston is....something I can't connect, but I'm thinking about it.

    Also just bad engine metallurgy could cause such a premature piston failure.
  • swandog4swandog4 Member Posts: 1
    I lost my keys and just hade to spend $900 on a new key blank and twice immobilizer. I am looking to put the immobilizer unit in myself to save a coupler of buck. Does anyone know where it is located? and is this a job I can do myself.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    I just blew my clutch in my 900 se. Didn't take long; less then 30 minutes. How do I avoid the same thing in the future and what's the likely replacement cost? I already know I was a dummy and didn't know what I was doing. :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Wha happened? Get stuck in a snow drift or something? If you can tell us more particulars, maybe we can tell you how to avoid it next time.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Whelp; Probably a host of bad things. Revving the engine while coming out of a dead stop to avoid stalling it. Failing to shift up when the indicator light was on. I am sure there were others.
    Anyway the clutch was new(less than 800 miles) and died a quick and painful death. I was told by a Saab technician that the clutch on this particular turbo model is of the weak variety and even drivers with considerable manual transmission experience have had trouble with burning it out before the standard 60,000 miles that a normal clutch is supposed to deliver. So given that, if I do decide to replace it($1k), I would be interested in finding a heavy duty clutch that can accept a fair amount of punishment from a second rate operator. I know it would be a big seller.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Really you CAN'T be that bad. I think the clutch was no good. Only 800 miles? I don't think I could burn one out that quick even if I tried.

    Well, you know the drill now. Easy does it. I'd like to see that old clutch plate and pressure plate, I would I would.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    I've decided that I am going to try to replace the clutch myself with an hydraulically aspirated conversion kit. So I should have an opportunity to send you some detailed pictures of the old pressure and clutch plates. While I am at it, I might as well inspect the transmission for any damage. It's all a matter of finding the time. Before your response, I was feeling pretty darned low. Thanks for the redeeming remarks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd say that if the clutch face is burned down to the rivets, this might be your fault; but if you find loose parts in the pressure plate, or broken springs, then the pressure plate might have destroyed the clutch.

    What puzzles me is that you should have had a lot of warning that the clutch was going out---plenty of slippage, and a real change in the feel of the clutch pedal and in the smoothness of the shifts.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Yeah, I remember the clutch slipping in all the forward gears but not a change in clutch smoothness and most times it stalled coming out of a dead stop.
    YOU dont mention anything about white smoke coming out from underneath the hood, though. That's when I had it in first gear so I would imagine that gear is fried.
    Also, the shifter linkage is loose-seems to have too much play. But the clutch pedal still has pressure-springs back when depressed to the floorboard.
    I haven't had a chance to test whether the clutch will engage 2nd gear; I know 1st gear is dead, though. AND there is no way to get the shifter to engage the reverse gear. This is probably serious stuff I am faced with.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if a clutch slips in FIRST gear, it is really fried. You'd need no further proof.

    Well maybe you DO need some good instruction in shifting. Sounds like you're not exactly a ballet dancer on those pedals ;)

    Good luck with repairs and see if you can get someone with good experience to check you out on the controls---to make sure you're doing things right.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    'Alright', I'll admit I am pretty shiftless when it comes to the gearshift. But luckily I had opportunity to initiate a discussion with my INDY-MENTOR. He said he had the exact same problem awhile back and remedied the condition by tearing out the factory installed self-adjusting clutch cable and replacing it with a manually adjusted one. Seems that the self-adjusting model isn't worth two dead fleas as it has the reputation of causing a high failure rate of the clutch operation. He advised me to try that route first before I throw the panic switch about frying transmission gears. Remember, that all the service department did was to install a new clutch and replenish the fluid reservoir. It was still the original cable. I will try upgrading the cable and hope it solves the problem. It's a one hour job and I don't have to pull off the tranny. Plus it is inexpensive. HOT DAMN! Nice to have people around like that when you need them.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Ok, Mr. SR, you will get your wish. My indy mechanic has taken some pics of the pressure plate and friction disk. He said it was an extreme case of damage to both parts-that something was definitely wrong somewhere. Not your normal clutch wear. He's having the flywheel resurfaced today. I will send the pics when convenient. Maybe you will have some idea of what was the culprit.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sure be glad to take a look.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    You can view the pics of the pressure plate and friction disc at this web address: http://new.photos.yahoo.com/gambolio/albums
    As you can see the friction disc has exploded and the pressure plate is beat up pretty badly. This clutch had less than 800 miles on it before this happened. I am hoping you can provide some sort of insightful commentary about the likely cause. If not, well ok then. Nothing lost.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Can't get to your photos.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Really all I can see is a badly burned up clutch disk, as one might find on a race car. That sort of damage could be either from a defective part (separation of the fiber material from the disk) or from abuse. No way to tell.

    I am curious, though, why it got this bad. The car must have been slipping, burning, etc. for a while? Or was this one catastrophic moment in time?

    I was hoping to see the pressure plate in pieces. That would indicate defective part, since the driver really couldn't do that.

    But the driver could destroy a clutch disk, as shown in your photos--but he'd have to be kind of crazy. Are you crazy? :P
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Well, I did buy a Saab that was an insurance writeoff. Case closed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I've owned Saabs as well...I'm just as nuts as you are.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    For future SAAB issues, please post in the particular model group. You can find them using the "browse by vehicle" to your left.
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