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VW Jetta TDI



  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    The Answer is TRUE.

    I have heard from my dealership here in Canada that VW will not have any TDI's in the line up for 2007. This will be all makes not only the Jetta. They plan on making TDI's in time for 2008 which is going to have some modifications to the engine. Of course as always, there is alot of speculation on this issue. I dont think TDI's will become a thing of the past with VW, but may be delayed for a year.
    The reason that I was told no TDI's for 07', is that because of the change in Diesel fuel across North America (Low Sulphur mainly) that the TDI engine to date will no longer need to be as "efficient" to run on the newer fuel. The TDI engine currently takes the exhaust and re-runs it through the cylinders to burn the fuel more efficiently, this system may no longer be needed with the low sulphur diesel. Therefore the TDI's currently will only be that much better with better quality diesel, all North America has to do is compare to Diesel in Europe and try to match it!
    So Plan on having long wait times to buy your 06 TDI in the meantime. ;)
  • I purchased my '05 "new" Jetta TDI (5-spd.) last July. I have been sharing my mileage data on My average over my 60 mile per day commute has been 39 mpg. But I have been on several long highway trips that produced 46 mpg.
  • TDI Synthetic Oil Technical Info

    Semi and full Synthetic - According to a service bulletin, Volkswagen recommends the use of synthetic oil in the TDI engine. Herein lies the dilemma, as if you take your Volkswagen to a dealer for service, they may try to use an oil which is not CG-4 rated and isn't really a full synthetic. There are a limited number of oils on the market in North America which satisfy the following criteria: CG-4 or CH-4 rating, full synthetic, viscosity 5w30 or 5w40. These oils are suitable for VW's full recommended oil change interval and the viscosity range is suitable for all climates in North America. Contrary to what dealers may tell you, neither Mobil 1 nor Castrol Syntec fulfill all of these requirements - and that information is right on the bottle.

    The information in this section refers to API service classes which are North American standards. Different standards for engine oils are used in Europe and elsewhere. It should be noted that since this vehicle was developed in Europe, it is much easier to determine whether a European engine oil is suitable. Any synthetic oil meeting the specification VW 505.00 is suitable for use with this engine with the full recommended oil change interval. The VW 505.00 is the manufacturer's own specification, but in North America this specification is rarely seen, so we must rely on the API grades.

    Oils which are suitable for the full recommended oil change interval in all climates include, but aren't limited to:
    Mobil Delvac 1, 5w40 (full synthetic, a reformulated version of Mobil 1 which is intended for diesel engines)
    Chevron Delo 400, 5w40 (full synthetic version)
    Shell Rotella T (full synthetic version, not to be confused with Rotella SB synthetic blend or regular Rotella T non-synthetic)
    Amsoil Series 3000, 5w30 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
    Amsoil High Performance, 10w40 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
    Redline, synthetic version (make sure you get the type meant for diesel engines, with the CG-4 or CH-4 rating)
  • tac2tac2 Posts: 2
    Thanx 4 info will check it out
  • It was my understanding that the current VW TDI lineup was going to be supplanted with a new "CDI" Common-rail Direct Injection diesel engine system. Not sure which model year we will see this. Inquiring TDI enthusiasts want to know!
  • drm2drm2 Posts: 4
    The label on Stanadyne One Shot says 4oz treats 30 gal, but the VW technical bulletin says to add 8 oz to 15 gal. What do you guys who use Stanadyne add per tank?
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    I use Stanadyne in every fill.
    Here is the most useful link to answer all your questions.

    Note: The Purple Label Lubricity Formula is the VW spec additive, and all 8oz is required for 15Gal or 60L. That is where you have heard that all 8 oz are needed.

    However, the Blue Label Performance Formula (Which is best for below freezing weather) 8 oz treats 30 Gal or 120 L. So you ONLY NEED 4 oz of this type to treat your car. Or 1/2 the bottle.

    The Comparison chart on the link above is great to help you understand the difference in all the types Stanadyne provides, and note it is ok to mix any types of Stanadyne additives. VW dealerships will sell both the types I have mentioned so make sure you pick up the type you feel best for your driving conditions. :P
  • drm2drm2 Posts: 4
    I was looking at the VW tech bulletin at:

    It cites Performance Formula.

    You might have to access the site through the Stanadyne ad at
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    drm2, I did find your tech bulliton via the website. FYI it is also available via .

    Check this link out
    It states that VW has only approved the Lubricity Formula, NOT the Performance. I know it is a bit conflicting :confuse:

    For your information Stanadyne indicates that increased dosage of their products is in no way harmful but unessesary. I personally go by the Stanadyne bottle itself. During the winter months I use the Performance Formula 1/2 bottle per fill (4 oz), and when we have extreme cold weeks -30 degrees C I will add a full bottle(8 oz) on rare occasions. I have not ever used their Winter Performance additive as of yet, mainly because I would have to special order the product in. Other than that I use the cheaper Lubricity Formula the rest of the year. Which is recommended by VW. And I only use the Stanadyne required amount. Alot of people feel that additives are over rated and not needed, my opinion is to try it for yourself and not to go too overboard with the amount of additive. Even every other fill up is better than none. I encourage you to read the Stanadyne website and talk with you VW service dealer. :shades:
  • smdtdismdtdi Posts: 31
    Its time to replace the fuel filter on my TDI (20K maintenance).

    Can I buy an aftermarket filter, or do I have to buy one from the dealer?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You really need a VW fuel filter.... but there are many online options besides dealership.

    Here are just a few options... at least you can get an idea what the "going price" is. Dont forget, some dealerships actually have reasonable prices. I have found my dealship is actually somtimes LESS than the best online price I can find..And I dont have to pay shipping.
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    Has anyone found a winter front for a 06' Jetta? I need something to cover up the front grill, it was -42C here today and the car starts and runs fine,(good winter test) but will not warm up for hours.

    Any suggestions would be great. Buuurrrr Canada is cold eh. :surprise:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I use several lengths of 1/2 inch foam pipe insulation. It is pre-slit and can be pushed onto the grille slats easilly. When we get a warm day, I can remove some or all of the pieces to allow some airflow.... just toss them in the trunk.

    I think it cost me about $5 US for enough pipe-insulation to do the entire grille 3x over. Since my Jetta is Platinum Grey, I selected grey-colored insulation which matches quite well.

    The insulation is placed on EVERY OTHER grille slat and thusly will cover the entire grille. You can also choose to cover the lower slats too.

  • smdtdismdtdi Posts: 31
    I tried to install a fuel filter, but I can't get the control valve retaining clip to fit properly.

    After I started the engine, I got out to check for leaks, and there was already about a gallon of diesel on my garage floor.

    Fuel was coming out of the top of the control valve hole.

    What am I doing wrong?

    I can't seem to get this retaining clip to stay on.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Have you reviewed the "Fuel Filter Change video?

    BTW: That 3-nipple valve is actually a THERMOSTSAT valve. It re-circulates the fuel back thru the filter until is is warmed up. Only after the fuel is sufficently heated... it is sent back to the fuel tank. (The mechanical fuel pump tends to heat up the fuel when it it pressurized)

    The reason we want the fuel flowing thru the filter to be heated is to reduce the chance of plugging the filter with paraffan. (keep the paraffan melted into liquid state)
  • smdtdismdtdi Posts: 31
    Is there a text only version of these instructions?

    I am on dial up and can't get the movie to run.

    I was able to hold the control valve in place with a couple of curtain hooks. The original retainer clip is now lost. It sprung loose, and may have ended up in one of the headlight cavities.

    Where can I get a replacement clip?
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    I own a 2005 Liberty CRD and my brother is the proud owner of a new 2006 Jetta TDI (I’ve driven his TDI and I think it’s awesome). The following question is from both of us: What driving style produces the least amount of build-up of crud in the intake manifold of these diesels? I am assuming the CRD is not immune to this problem.

    There seems to be a widespread belief by many that driving these diesel engines hard occasionally and systematically keeps the EGR valve clean. It seems to me that wide open throttle would create more fumes (oil and fuel) going through CCV into the intake where it can combine with particulates (carbon?) coming from the exhaust to form the crud that builds up in the intake of these engines. Does anyone have first-hand factual knowledge of whether this happens faster with easing driving or hard driving? City vs. highway? I don’t care about the EGR valve; I am more concerned about build-up in the intake.

    Thanks, in advance.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    From what I understand, the exhaust is only recirculated at lower rpm/off-idle situations. When you hammer on the go-pedal, this helps blow whatever nonsense has built up in the intake. Very similar to blowing the carbon out of a carborator. I've made a few mods to mine, plus drive it pretty hard and at 130k miles I'm still pretty clean inside.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Posts: 735
    Can anyone who has been around ULSD tell me if it has a different or milder odor than the junk diesel we use now?

    The other day my wife and I did a test drive of a VW Jetta TDI and I loved it. Today she mentioned that the smell of diesel fuel, ever so slight as it was to her, kind of made her sick. I never smelled a thing, but maybe after 30+ years of working on tugs I would not notice a faint diesel smell.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,109
    I think the major smell is from the sulfur. With sulfur all but removed I do not smell a strong odor. Gas smells worse to me than ULSD. I have 7500 miles on BP ULSD and it never puts out any smoke or smell. I have stood by the exhaust as a test and it is very clean burning. My 2005 Passat runs great on it.
  • sandman52sandman52 Posts: 36
    Anyone happen to know where the plug in connection for the OBD2 diagnostics is located on the new 05.5 Jetta? Couldn't seem to find anything in the owners manual, and the service manuals from Bently aren't available yet for the new models. I suppose I could start a hunt, but if someone knows where to point me, that would be great!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Although I have no specific knowledge of the 2005 Jetta, The plug on all previous models has been below the dash, under the steeringwheel and to the left a bit.
    I hope this helps you.
  • sandman52sandman52 Posts: 36
    I just checked, and it was under the dash, all the way over to the left end where the dash meets the left kick panel.
  • sgainessgaines Posts: 2
    My 02 tdi service engine soon light came on, I had auto zone check it with a tester and the results said number four glow plug was not working. I took all four plugs out and checked them with twelve volt current. The results were all four plugs glowed. Any thoughts as to what else it could be. I made sure all the wires are on tight. Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The connectors on the glow-plug harness are known to corrode. The resultant poor connection can set a glowplug code.

    Many folks chose to use a conductive-gell coating on the flow=plug harness connectors. This both protects from corrosion and provide a better connection.

    BTW: next time, all you have to do is check the resistance of the glowplugs after pulling the connectors. It is MUCH easier than removing them - just to check if they are burned out.
  • vwericvweric Posts: 3
    My 2005.5 TDI idles roughly after I have driven it on the highway and sometimes after I have driven it around town for awhile. Any suggestions as to why this might be happening? I have no issues during startup or when I accelerate. Thanks for any help.
  • cdobrycdobry Posts: 2
    I've got a 2000 TDI with a chip in the turbo. Does anyone know if it's ok to add a cold air intake as well? Someone told me that with a chip in the turbo, it's already putting some stress on the air flow sensor. Does anyone have any input on this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A CAI is not required... the factory air-inlet is ALREADY a CAI. (behind headlight intake for Jetta/Gulf)

    Besides, your TDI also has an INTERCOOLER and the on-board computer already has a sensor for the intake-air-temp and compensates accordingly.

    The VERY BEST power boost for a TDI is to upgrade the INJECTORS.

    Perhaps you would do well to gain some more knowledge about how a turbocharger/intercooler work toghther on a diesel engine before you go bolting on more stuff. Do some more research on the web.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,381
    I would agree. I also would add that the stock air cleaner and importantly the stock (paper) air filter element are probably not only the best flowing but the best filtering-especially for the price!! More than enough volume of air flows to where it is needed.

    The only other real issue is the snow "prophylactic" qualities of the snorkel, snorkel screen. I have left mine on and clean the screen each 5,000 miles.

    A big if, but if you do not want/need or are ok with the higher RISK of hydro lock to your engine, just simple removal of the snorkel does the trick (the same risk for hydro lock exists with any cold air modification). This will make the bottom of the stock air box the defacto default gathering place for "sucked" in debris. This is of course at ZERO cost.

    Together with the chip, an upgrade with the Italian injectors will probably make the car drive MUCH differently than you are used to. If you have a manual and like to "get on it" be prepared for the likely hood of less mpg, less longevity of the clutch. (due to clamping or lack there of issues) A stage 2 clutch upgrade might be in the cards, again if you tend to "get on it"

    If you have the automatic, it tends to better handle the extra hp and torque.

    So in closing if you decide to get a CAI, it will be mainly for looks (useless and costly and really not for "better" performance. If I were making the upgrade, I'd put the money (which will be app 1/2) into the Italian injectors.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,381
    Indeed. If you do live in a real "winter area" you might also want to arm yourself with winter additive information. Essentially you do not want the D2 fuel to freeze over. Repairs can be very expensive.

    If you do a search on it can give you a far more technical explanation. However the upshot is cetane ratings for D2 function like octane ratings for RUG to PUG. Past a certain point (50-60 cetane) it is overkill.
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