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Seems like a slight to no loss off the real world 03 Jetta TDI history. This is HUGE, as it is a BIG increase in hp/torque and there is the DSG/6 speed manual differences.
If one is purchasing a used VW ... you should insist on getting ALL these keys because replacing them is costly. (subtract at least $150 per key from the asking price.)
Have you ever had duplicates made of the valet key? It should be less costly than the e-key, right? It would be nice to attach one under the car with an electric cable tie should I somehow lose the key during a kayak roll or re-entry.
Any other findings?
I'm running B99 from a ruputable source (that 1st tank was petro-diesel from the dealer), but will switch to B50 for the winter months. I've been running this for an extended period in my '86 Jetta with absolutely no modifications and absolutely no problems.
There is a long waiting list (couple months for the sedan, and about 6 months for the wagon), but I was in the right place at the right time. I walked into Volkswagon of Salem (Oregon) to test drive their white demo on Friday afternoon and picked up mine Saturday morning when it rolled in. They charged me exactly MSRP plus title fees for a total price of $22,812. I'm pretty sure I'll get $1,300 back from the fed, for a total price of $21,512.
Rod
My MPG did not "level off" until about 60,000 - 70,000 miles, I have a spreadsheet of every drop of fuel pumped into my tank. I now enjoy a lifetime AVERAGE of 50.00 MPG. (between 700 and 800 miles per tank of fuel)
You should be concentrating on specific driving-habits that lead to a reliable-economic engine. Breaking in a TURBOCHARGED DIESEL engine which is designed to run for over 300,000 miles is not the same as a cheep gasoline engine designed to only run for 100,000 miles. Be patient...
http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/0,,id=157632,00.html
If your vehicle was used only for personal
purposes during the year, and you owe
alternative minimum tax (for example, Form
1040, line 45, is more than zero), do not
complete Form 8910 because your allowable credit will
be zero.
http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f8910.pdf
So really in PLAIN IRS speak (yes oxymoronic) , what are the AGI ranges in which the Prius tax credits can be applied?
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Actually this is more important that most folks think. It should really payoff to UNDERSTAND the TDI workings and stay within the correct operating parameters. While I got great fuel mileage almost from the start, do not expect best fuel mileage (aka full cylinder pressure (550 psi) till app 30,000 to 60,000 miles. If after you read the articles and have any questions, I'd be happy to discuss whatever with you. The attitude to have ( driving the diesel) is to drive it slightly to more aggressively than a gasser economy car.
Anymore as much ribbing as the Japanese oems take about being appliance-like, REAL appliances have long since experience break downs almost exponentially quicker than that stereo typical MAYTAG commercial. VW takes a different philosophy in that they make no secret of the fact the car REQUIRES maintenance. This of course works AGAINST them (VW's lousy "appliance" ratings) , but at the same time if you get a good one it works FOR (YOU) them.
One might want to check out www.tdiclub.com and do a search for either diesel engine break in or author Drivbiwire.
This author is actually one of the superb mechanical TDI "gurus" /TB/WP wizards in addition to his real day job. I have personally watched him do app 18 TB/WP changes at various GTG's.
I broke in my TDI using what I thought to be some of the principles outlined. I have had the chance/s to ask him whatever questions I have had over the years and mileage of TDI ownership (5/6 years 110,000 miles).
Two acid visual tests passed @ the 100,000 mile timing belt and water pump interval were the lack of carbon sludge build up in the intake AND little to no camshaft wear (original tool markings) with 20,000 to 25,000 miles OCI's with the avg being @ 15.6k per OCI. :shades: While I have not had my clutch out for visual inspection, barring catastrophic circumstances, I swag the clutch will be good to go to at least the min of 400,000 miles. More is better but even I realize that woud be gravy or icing on the cake.
My goal is a min of 500,000 miles (3 more or total of 4 belt changes)
I prefer not to call people names I disagree with. You should be able to see by the prices on eBay for diesel VWs that there IS a strong market. People would like to save on fuel and not end up with a throwaway hybrid in 10 years. I will NEVER EVER again by a hybrid. So Diesel is my only option for good highway mileage in a decent sized vehicle. Sorry Charlie not everyone has your limited view of the world. You will just have to accept that.
Regarding life span even if the engine goes 300K the rest of the car like all cars needs TLC at some point. Even the newer gas cars will run 200K but the rest of em start falling appart. I'm currently doing a wheel bearing- shocks and drive line boot replacement on my 2001 Subaru with 150,000 miles on it. Engine is the last of my worries. Clutch was replaced at 140,000 though we do pull trailers with the subaru dealer said 180K on the clutch was about the upper end of what they generally see for clutch wear.
My main interest in diesel is one I had a 505 TD way back when great car and fun to drive. Great milege for a fairly large midsize heavy car at that time also.
Milege is king and the TDI's are really the best way to go when it comes to long term ownership and great milege. Wife has a 2001 Jetta with 50,000 on it looks new - rattles like an old 1970's Ford and burns oil that it doesn't leak. So I'm not a big fan of VW and hope we see non VW diesel's soon!
On the opposite end, folks think it positively weird the VW Jetta TDI motor has a design life of 25,000 hours. Or at 50 mph math conversion puts that @ 1,250,000 miles.
The ACCELLERATION keeps pressure on the turbocharger seals and the turbocharger keeps PSI pushing into the cylinders which is required by the piston-rings to seal against the sides of the cylinders.
The DECELLERATION frees up the rings to allow them to 'wiggle' on the cylinders and this helps spread oil to cool them from the accelleration process.
For me I helped break in my TDI by climbing briskly up a steep hill (perhaps 2-3 minutes) and then decellerate down the other side. I did this EVERY DAY on the way home from work for several months.
It is also VERY IMPORTANT to realize that the rings should be seated BEFORE the cylinder-walls start to glaze, Once the cylinder-walls glaze, they are sooooo slippery that it is almost impossible to seat the rings.
The basics of the break-in process is equally applicable to any internal-combustion engine. Most oil-burning or low-MPG engines can be traced directly to a poor or non-exestant break-in early in the engine life. (cylinder glaze before ring-seating)
Actually the Xebra will do just about that. Of course it is a very crudely built Chinese vehicle that tops out about 40 MPH. I drove one and was not interested. They cannot sell them. I do not see battery technology advancing to where an EV that will carry 4 in comfort and have a range people want ever selling for under $20k. It is hard to find a golf cart with Lead Acid batteries for $12k. The Prius plug-in or the Volt are going to be around $40k.
There are people on this thread buying a new Jetta TDIs for under $25k. That is the average price for a Prius or a more. If a person really test drives the Jetta TDI and the Prius. Out on the highway. I cannot imagine them buying the Prius unless their driving senses are totally DEAD. The Prius is fine in stop and go city traffic. I would not take one out on the open highway here in Southwestern USA. They get wind whipped all over at highway speeds of 75 MPH. I would be willing to bet on a cross country jaunt at normal highway speeds the Jetta will get better mileage than the Prius. And you will not be a nervous wreck after a driving all day.
I have made no secret of the benefits of diesel cars, but on the other hand, I notice you have not even talked about buying a hybrid. I probably have come closer to buying a hybrid (Toyota Prius, Honda Civic hybrid) than you probably have.
Hybrids are even less of the passenger vehicle population than the shrinking passenger diesel population, and this is despite massive advertising and many years. New car diesel sales on the other hand have even been banned by 5 states but yet offerings will probably sell out all they can make.
It makes more sense to try to be about $2600 short on your taxes. That way you'll earn more interest and your $1300 tax credit will offset too. In the end, you'll give the government $1300 in April of 09, instead of handing them that cash over 2008.
My own interests are DRG's durability/reliability over 100,000 miles.
I was struck by how seamless the transition from automatic transmission it really is. Also one can still "roll one's own" should that be wanted/needed.
Instead of actually SHIFTING gears... the DSG pre-selects the next gear and then just swaps between one of the 2 clutch-packs to enguage it. SURPRISE! the DSG contains 2 seperate gearboxes each with its own clutch on the engine-side.
The DSG is truly an EVOLUTION in xmission design for road-automobiles. (The F1 racers have been using this design for many years)
That is good to know. I was not impressed with the BMW dealer up in Kearney Mesa either. Just waiting on a selection of diesel SUVs.
Are folks on the waiting lists for TDI sedans seeing any deliveries?
Are dealers in your area receiving more than 2 vehicles per month?
Also, would like to know if you are seeing additional dealer mark-ups in your local markets. In South Florida have seen adjustment of $1000 to $2500- not consistent between dealerships.
I offered to buy one sitting on dealers lot at invoice, but they refused. They seem to be standing firm on over charging. Till supply catches up with demand, then it will be a different story.
Gary