VW Jetta TDI

bpeebles

Did you verify and validate that your IQ (InjectionQuality) is set properly. It is not unusual to have cold-temp running issues when the IQ is set too low (even when still in spec). I made certain my IQ is at the very top of the specified limits after TB replacement.

Even the local VW TDI guru (NOT DEALERSHIP!) has told me that he always sets IQ to very top of spec. when doing TB replacement.

siberia

We have the same vehicle year. Mine was purchased March 08 and starting and driving at 35 F then was fine. This year starting at 15 F and below is a bit different. For the first 30 seconds the engine sounds like a basket full of mechanical failure with the rpm fluctuating a little, then it straightens out. The engine is weaker when this cold but it's okay after a mile or so. When I do the timing belt in 15k miles I will pull the valve cover and inspect the cam and lifters for signs of failure related to the PD engines. Not drawing any conclusions, just FYI.

BuffaloVWType2

I am interested in buying a 2009 Jetta DTI and I am looking compare the different prices that people have paid for their car. I am looking for an automatic transmission only. What have you paid?

THANK YOU!

redvw

The price I paid for a 2009 manual TDI with optional rear air bags, sunroof, ipod adaptor, and splash guards is $24074. This price represents the options, the destination, and a fee to retrieve the vehicle from out of state.

Edmunds: MSRP $25458
Invoice $23986
TMV $25727

Thus $1384 under MSRP, and $88 over invoice.

shrifty

I paid $24,368 for mine, automatic. No sunroof or nav, but it did include a lip spoiler and mudguards, and the upgraded floormats.

volvoguy4

I have a volvo diesel car with over 300kmiles (I bought it used at 144k miles) and considering finally retiring it. Possible replacement is new VW TDI. However diesel costs now 2.35/gallon while gasoline costs 1.65/gallon. For past 13 years I did not make earnest diesel/gasoline cost comparison because of my volvo still very good runner. I did calculations with EPA mileage figures and at these comparison fuel prices it works out that new gasoline jetta costs 5.5cents/mile while TDI jetta costs 5.7cents/mile fuel cost. Is this correct? Is diesel now costing more per mile (fuel cost) in addition to performance handicap that I have always been aware of?

bpeebles

You can be assured that any apparent gasoline fuel-cost advantage will be short-lived. You can be equally assured that the efficency of a diesel engine will always continue to be better than any gasoline engine.

Also, it does not appear if you have considerd in the PM (Preventive Maintenance) cost advantage of a diesel engine. For example, if your Volvo had a gasoline engine, you would have replaced sparkplugs, wires and several other ignition components many times over 300K miles. (and the engine would not have lasted that long anyway)

Additionally, most people with TDIs have discoverd that their MPG continues to increase over about 40,000 miles as the pistons seal within the cylinders. Most folks find that the EPA numbers are easy to surpass. (Expect over 55MPG on highway) If you plan on keeping your next car as long as your Volvo.. then a TDI is absolutely the right choice for you.

Finally, you are incorrect in assuming that performance does not match gasoline engine. The newer TDIs can easilly out accellerate an equal-displacement gasoline engine any day of the week. (All while consuming less fuel and creating less emmissions!)

shrifty

I will have to agree with bpeebles on this one for sure, the current price difference won't last too long. In my area RUG is going up, while diesel dropped a bit. Current diesel price is 2.29, while RUG is 1.79. I wouldn't rely too heavily on EPA estimates but rather what people typically get, tonight on my trip I achieved close to 42 MPG running between 75-85 MPH and not even close to 40,000 miles on it yet, so it should likely get better with age.

shrifty

Tonight I briefly saw a message on my dash that I have never seen before, but didn't really see what it said. The only part I saw mentioned about having xxx days until I need maintenance or service....

Has anyone seen a message similar to this and knows what it actually said? I only saw it once, I'll have to check next time I start it up, I hope it wasn't anything too important.

ed_grant

The system is designed to track the mileage and time since last service and warn when serrvice is due. The dealer will reset the signal. Make sure that they set for the 10,000 mile interval or else they will set for 5,000 miles for the next oil change. I have forced them to set for 10,000 miles. It then becomes my choice if I service early.

cosmo

The procedure for re-setting the service reminder is as follows:

With key out of ignition press and hold trip odometer reset button.

When trip odometer reads 0.0, keep pressing the button and insert the key into the ignition.

Turn the ignition to on (not start).

The display will read "Service Now".

Release the trip odometer reset button and press the "m" button to the bottom left of the tach.

The "Service Now" will disappear.

You can confirm the re-set by removing the key from the ignition and holding the trip odometer reset button for 3-5 seconds. The MFD will display the miles until next service.

littlerhody

At about 500 miles before the 10k mark you will get messages that service is do in xxx miles or yyy days. The days make no sense. I had my 10 k service performed. The reminder sticker says next service is in 5k however it should be 10k. Not sure how they set the car display. It will be interesting since scheduled service for the first 36k miles is at no charge. I assume you all know that is the case for the 09 jetta. You should not be paying for oil changes.

shrifty

Based on the number of miles that it said, it appears to be set to the 10,000 mile service as it said around 1300 miles last time I saw it. Oddly enough, it said 1400 miles or 267 days. Not sure why that number of days, seems kind of strange. I guess it rounds to roughly 9 months, if that makes any sense.

shrifty

Thanks for the info, I can check this out after I have the 10,000 mile service just to be sure they set it properly. Of course, it isn't really that difficult to remember the mileage since it is every 10,000 miles. Nice to have the reminder though.

shrifty

It appears that mine started around 1500 prior, the last one I saw was 1400. I found it odd that the first 36K are free, since there is nothing at 36K that I am aware of. Why not just say first 30K?

swalsh19

Went out to my TDI today and it would not fire. It was cold last night but it has been colder before. I just filled up on Friday and put antigel in the tank yesterday morning, so I don't think the fuel has gelled over.

Can anyone give me some tests to try? I noticed that occasionally there is a drip by the fuel pump. I'm thinking maybe with this leak I'm getting an air lock?

bpeebles

Gelled fuel DOES NOT stop a diesel from starting... Instead it may make the engine stall after driving awhile because the fuel filter begins to plug as the parrafin accumulates on it.

You did not say what year your TDI is so we do not know which engine you have. HOWEVER... failure to start most often points to one or more burned-out glowplugs. Depending on the year of your TDI... some of the GPs may not be "monitored". Newer TDIs actually run diagnostics on all the GPs each time you start the engine.

Hard-starting usually points to your IQ (Injection Quality) being set to improper value. A combonation of IQ being wrong and some burned-out GPs would really be hard to start in cold temps.

Keep im mind that IQ can 'drift' out of spec as the TB (TimingBelt) wears and should be checked at the same intervals as the TB.

swalsh19

Thanks for the reply. I have to get a different deep 10mm socket tomorrow to pull my glowplugs to test them.

My cars year is 2002, sorry about thiis little tidbid it would help.

bpeebles

Your 2002 is past due to have some glowplugs burn out. I will be surprized if you do not find a bad one.There is no need to "pull" the GlowPlugs to test them. An Ohmmeter from engine-block to tip of an installed glowplug should read less than 2 ohms.

There is also possibility of GP harness or GP relay issues.

For more details...you may also wish to read GlowPlugs 101 (All 9 pages of it.)

If you do end up pulling them, be VERY careful. Especially if they have never been out before. Make certain that the engine is STONE COLD. You may have to 'work' them out a little at a time, spray with some lube and re-tighten every 1/2 turn to keep from galling the threads in the aluminum head.

As you install each one, apply thin layer of antiseeze compound designed for aluminum.

hlcastelo

Has anyone found decent instructions on use of this option for a 2009 Jetta TDI. Instructions provided are not very informative e.g. moving from one playlist to another using the CD changer buttons. I actually visited local dealer in order to get the IPOD to work and they were not well trained on its use. This option is not the cable instead it is the socket in the console.

Thank you for any light you can shed on this

PS - The manual did not have anything there was a two pager white insert but it was not very helpful.

swalsh19

Got the car running finally, but notice I have a drip from the fuel pump when the car is turned off. It is by the lower left 30torx bolt. Is there a gasket in there that is easily replaceable?

bpeebles

Diesel fuel pumps have some VERY tight clearances and the utmost clenleness must be observed when rebuilding. (a single speck of dirt can destroy the innards) Use copius amounts of spray-cleaner on the outside of the unit BEFORE opening it up.

With that said, there is a plethera of information about TDI fuelpumps on tdiclub.com site. The most common cause of leakage is from using BIOdiesel which can cause seals to soften.

swalsh19

I have 2002 TDI. I cleaned the EGR this weekend and since then I have a whistling/squeel sound when I accelerate in lower gears, it goes away when I hit 3rd or 4th gear. I hoping it has something to due with what I have cleaned on the EGR and not something to do with the Turbo.

I have inspected the EGR area and don't see anything wrong. Has anyone got any suggestions for what I can look for?

elias

vacuum leak? a connector/hose loose is loose/unattached?
if you observe/listen with hood open while someone revs engine gently
to whatever rpm, you may be able to see/hear the exact location of possible vacuum leak.

bpeebles

Cleaning the EGR means removing the watercooled EGR cooler, I have to assume that you had to disconnect parts of the intake plenum to get at it.

Any leaks in the intake plenum will sould like a "whistle" as the turbocharger builds up pressure in the intake system. Check all connections from turbocharger, thru intercooler and into the intake manifold are correctly fitted.

dkgarcia

This is our first message. We have a 2004 Jetta TDI. We live in Colorado and are having some cold weather. We had trouble starting it and the mechanic replaced the glow plugs (which did nothing) and then replaced the fuel transfer pump. It now starts ok, but when you step on the throttle, nothing happens. We have to restart the car numerous times and then it will finally throttle up and drive and start great the rest of the day. What the heck is going on?

bpeebles

I cannot tell you *specifically* what is going on but be aware that a diesel engine DOES NOT have a "throttlebody" like a gasser does.

In-fact, the TDI engine does not even have a throttle-cable. Instead the throttle-pedal is simply a rehostat which sends electric signals to the engine computer.

I do know that if the vehicle thinks that the brake-pedal is pushed, it will refuse to "throttle up" (your words). Given this, you can try pulling the brake-pedal up by hand and see if this helps the problem.

As for your "starting problem"... I would put money on the fact that your IQ is not set correctly. (Injection Quality) This is the #1 reason for hard starting TDI engine.

It is easy to check IQ using a VagCom

gagrice

I got a feeling they got a part swapping mechanic that does not have a clue about the VW TDI. I would not touch one without a laptop set up for analysis with VagCom. The age of shade tree mechanics has past. Sadly that was me. I just don't have the ambition or the need to get my hands dirty any longer.

dkgarcia

When we took it back in to our mechanic, he said something similar about the car thinking the brake was on, so they replaced the brake lamp switch, but it didn't help at all. We tried what you suggested about manually lifting the brake pedal but that also didn't help. This is our first winter for our diesel. What is required for starting them in the winter?

bpeebles

"This is our first winter for our diesel. What is required for starting them in the winter? "

The TDIs start very well in the winter. Just wait for the glowplug lite to go out. The colder it gets... the longer it takes for the lite to go out. (more heating required)

Many folks find that the TDI is so durn efficent that it does not create enough heat to warm up the cabin. Thusly, they have installed TDI heater which preheats the engine before starting it. I use a TDI heater with a timer which heats for ~2-hours before starting the engine at 5:30AM every morning.

dieselbreath

If the glow plugs are OK (or at least 2 of them, preferably 3 or 4) then it should fire up right away (assuming that you are waiting for the indicator light to go out before cranking the engine). However, TDIs are harder to start when warmed up because the glow plugs are not turned on after the engine warms up.
So, if the temperature sensor that tells the computer that the engine is warm already fails, then it may not turn the glow plugs on, and then it won't start.
I'm not sure, but I think the symptom would be that the glow-plug indicator lamp on the dashboard would not light up, or would light very briefly.
I've had to change all the glow plugs in my '98 NB TDI, which my son now drives.
Our 2009 Jetta TDI Wagon Hi-Line is being prepped at the dealer, and they have to install the mud flaps and tint the windows before we take posession

Firebird_EOU

What's the cost like after 36k miles? such as oil change and other major services?
So the normal oil change interval is 10k miles?

Thanks, NJ.

ruking1

Like anything, that really depends. But other than oil/filter changes fuel/cabin/ air filters (all common to gassers also) and a host of VISUAL inspections (which you can really DIY) the next real major tune is at 120,000 miles, which is best left to a guru to do the timing belt/water pump and Vag.com tune.

So if you are the stereotypical car owner that is at the 10th year.

bpeebles

I agree with the last appender. The long-term cost of PM (Preventive Maintenance) for diesel engine (at least for VWs) is LESS than for a gasser.

This is mostly due to a diesel having absolutely no ignition-system to deal with. (sparkplugs, wires, distributer...etc)

Most of the other maintenance costs are about the same. ESPECIALLY since the newer gassers are now Synthetic oil. This makes these 2 engine-types the same in the way of lubrication cost.

If I were asked to think of DIFFERENCES between Diesel and gasser in terms of PMs. I would have to say the FUEL FILTER on the diesel is larger. That is about it.

Diesel = Larger fuel filter
Gasser = Ignition system components to PM

vdubsalesguy

To keep your windows from fogging in cold weather, turn on the defroster, set the temp to hot and turn on the a/c compressor. This will draw moisture out of the air before it hits the windshield.

siberia

Not disagreeing with you in any way, Bpeebles, my brother's 06 Jetta TDI went nearly 100k miles with only one fuel filter change and recommended air filter changes, oil (and filter) changes and that's it - without an iota of trouble. He has a "different" diesel mechanic who recommends not changing the fuel filter until it cuts out at high speed. Funny thing is it ran fine over 100 mph with over 60k miles on the one fuel filter.:surprise: That said, I change all filters on my TDI on schedule.

Brother's 06 TDI is gone now. He hit 2 deer at once - got the front, hood, both front doors, windshield, air-bags, and the top. One deer somehow swung around trying to go into the driver's side window. Front and side air-bages saved him from injury. He took the insurance money, bought a 09 CR Jetta and didn't look back. :shades:

ruking1

Hey guy, deer tags and odd six bullets are way cheaper!!! :P

More on the serious side, VW maintenance intervals can be much more extended if one knows what one should be doing, or looking for. So while part of it is: do not try this at home.... While under the warranty (which is meager anyway) by all means do what is necessary to comply with warranty requirements and IF it requires warranty there are no issues. After that you self warranty ANYWAY as they always remind you when you look for warranty service after the warranty service is OVER!!??.... So for 3 other examples (with yours counts 4) 1. air filter requirements actually have been shown to be mis-measured. I have literally almost doubled the interval and it actually filters better!? 2. My Japanese Civic has needed 3 alignments in the span of time the Jetta has needed NONE (79,000 miles vs 114,000 miles-GTG to 200,000 miles!!?? ) 3. oem to built for oem oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 mile intervals.

siberia

My brother has shot a lot of deer in his life. Maybe this was payback.

After I bought my TDI, I changed the oil and all the filters right away. Even though the car was nice and clean under the hood the air filter was bulged out in the middle and the fuel filter was corroded, looking like it had never been changed. Surprisingly, it ran fine and I couldn't tell any difference with the new filters. What really made the difference in how it runs was putting it on the highway for 12K miles. Runs like a different engine now.

ruking1

Indeed your post got me thinking of an important 5000 mile maintenance item that literally is in NONE of the technical literature. If one has a "snow screen" it should be cleaned every 5,000 miles !!!! TDI's were meant to be driven slightly to moderately aggressively.

rrollntdi

I was checking at the Dealer to see how much the 40K mile service was, the first one you have to pay for, on my 2009 TDI. They said the cost for the 2006 TDI with the DSG tranny is $469. This includes oil and filter, DSG fluid and filter, cabin filter, air filter. I know the parts would be about $260 from tdiparts.com. An oil and filter change is about $75. It seems as though you are captive to the dealer while the 60K powertrain warranty is in effect.

ruking1

No, you are not captive. You can actually DIY and or sub out stuff like the DSG oil and filter change for example. It is important to obviously keep the records and receipts.

jim314

I think it is a fair price and money well spent. The dealer can be counted on to do it right, with no risk to you, no spillage on your property, and to dispose of all the waste fluids in an environmentally correct way. There's overhead in staffing and inventory.

I used to do oil changes on my wife's 1996 Volvo wagon (and normally all our other cars), then when she got a 2004 Volvo V70 it had a new type oil filter with a replaceable inner element which I wasn't familiar with. When the 3 or 4 years of dealer free maintenance was over I took it to a quick lube place because I didn't want to pay the dealer price, the other place was closer, faster, cheaper, and I could observe the oil change. I used to take my 1991 Dodge to this quick place with no problem. I would give them a Mobile1 filter and the exact oil I wanted used.

For this V70 I gave them a Volvo filter insert, O-ring seal, and 6 qts of Mobile1 10W-30 Extended Service oil.

They didn't have the right wrench to remove the filter housing and the cheapo wrench I had got from Volvo broke when they tried to use it. (Volvo had a better one but I got the cheaper one.) The quick lube staff had already drained the oil by the time it was clear that they couldn't get the filter housing off. They put the drain plug back in and I had them add their regular oil.

Then I went to Volvo dealer, bought the better wrench (they gave me credit for the broken one), went home, drove the front wheels on my too low but fail-safe solid wood, 35-year-old ramps. The filter came right off with the new wrench, but I could not get the drain plug off. It looked to me like it had been installed without the aluminum crush washer which I had supplied. I had only 12-sockets and rounded off the plug. Then I went back to Volvo in my wife's car and got a new plug and crush washer and advice. Volvo service said to use vice grips, if that failed it would have to be drilled and tapped.

But back at home, under the too low ramps, I could not get a good angle to apply force and just chewed up the plug with the visegrips. I stopped at this point. The car had fresh dino oil and a clean filter. I drove it that way for 3 or 4 kmi. During this time I worried that the steel plug had ruined the threads in the aluminum oil pan and researched systems for drilling and tapping to install a steel insert into aluminum.

Finally, I took it to a good independent Volvo shop where I could watch the work being done. I wanted to see how a competent worker did it. He tried a couple of different wrenches and neither worked. I thought the quick lube and I had really done some costly damage.

When the tech picked up an air chisel and aproached the plug I thought destruction and costly replacement was at hand. But he chiseled tangentially on the plug in the direction to rotate it counterclockwise and it loosened immediately. (As I had thought there was no crush washer.) And the threads were OK. The tech put it the new plug and washer I had gotten from Volvo, changed the filter, and put in my 6-qts of Mobile1.

Point being go to the dealer or other qualified service place for the warranty maintenance.

andyvmn

I'm looking at an '06 Jetta TDI, only I have concerns about having a diesel in MN. My dad has put the fear of god in me about the fuel gelling. Has anyone had any trouble with starting their TDI in the Minnesota winters? I worry about the weeks we spend below zero. I don't have a garage, so my TDI would be parked outside in the cold.

I'm also open to any other suggestions/advice in buying the TDI.

driverbern

I'm in PA so it is not as cold but I've never had a problem. But . . . one thing that is a headache is defrosting the windshield. You can not start the car and leave it run - it will not defrost until you drive for a few minutes. In the mean time the windshield will frost over again even if you've scraped and/or sprayed with deicer. If it happens to rain and then freeze you have a real problem. It can take several minutes to chip thru the ice. I like my TDI and would by another but this is the one drawback.

bpeebles

No worries about Jelling if you put in an additive. PLUS, unlike gasoline-additives, using the correct diesel-conditioner can really be benifectial.
--The increased Cetaine quiets down the engine and gives you 2-4 more MPG.
--The lubricant protects your very expensive injection-pump

I always ALWAYS add about 6 oz of PowerService at every fillup (WHITE bottle in winter / GREY bottle in summer) All WallyMarts carry PowerService.

I have been driving in Vermont winters for 6 years with absolutely no jelling at all. You will have more issues with getting heat from the engin than from jellin.

Even if you chose to never add fuel-conditioner, your local fuel supplier adds kerosene to the diesel as the temps get colder. Also, the TDI is designed to heat the fuel as you drive so the fuel-filter is kept warm. Any paraffan in the fuel will melt and pass thru the filter.

If you are the nervous-type of person, just keep a spare fuel-filter in the trunk. Any jelling problems will be resolved by replacing filter.

You can also carry a bottle of DIESEL-911 in the trunk... guaranteed to instantly resolve any jellin.

Dont forget that jelling ONLY is a problem if enough paraffan particals build up on the fuel-filter to stop the flow of fuel... this is very VERY unlikely to happen.

Contray to what some folks may think... jelling DOES NOT affect starting the engine at all. Instead, a jelling problem will manifest itstelf by causing engine to stall out after driving for several miles.

siberia

The coldest I have started my '05 TDI is 2 F and it sprang to life on the first full compression stroke. You should research the camshaft issue on the PD engine and the special oil that is required to keep the cam alive. At the very least the valve cover should be pulled and the cam and lifters visually inspected before you buy. My brother's '06 started well at -10 F with no jelling in NE - he used an additive also.

longo2

I am wondering if the new 09' Jetta TDI's will have the same problem with carbon/gunk build up in the intake manifold and EGR system?
The 1.9 ltr TDI's could carbon up enough to eventually stop the engine, and the clean up process is expensive, dirty and doesn't really solve the problem.
I have heard that the new 2 ltr TDI engine is a complete re-design, so am curious if anyone has heard that the clogging up problems of the older engines has been resolved.

ruking1

It was not so much the engine, as pre 2009 engines were designed to run on the European version of ULSD (15-9 ppm). The ULSD was not commonly available till October 2006. The higher (500)ppm sulfur LSD mandated till then, by CARB and EPA that is/was the main culprit.

There is/was of course a wide range of variance. On a 03 TDI, run the majority of its(114,000 ) miles life on LSD had ZERO intake carbon/gunk buildup. I suspect I will need little to no cleaning at 200,000 miles or @ the second 100,000 miles, when the TB/WP changing is due.

littlerhody

My 09 TDI standard has been outside all night in -15f in the New Hampshire White Mountains this past winter. No problem starting. I do wait until the glo plugs heat up. The car is a little stiff when that cold which is to be expected.

jkinzel

Everything is a little stiff at -15f. Makes me shiver to think of it.