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VW Jetta TDI



  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    gisela, two words for ya: fuel filter. it's supposed to be swapped every 20k but sometimes can clog before 20k. i had same symptoms with my 06 jetta TDI - it had been 18k miles since previous fuel filter change and the stuttering acceleration symptoms started just after i filled a tank at questionable 500 ppm station.
  • I have 03 TDI jetta Wagon, I have a few questions

    Timing belt was changed at 85k new Head My mileage was 48-53mpg before and Now its in the low 40s. dealer states timing is correct. How does one check timing on a TDI. I can do it on A gaser but TDI ? also whats the setting.

    I asked dealer if they De-carbed Intake while head was off he said NO never have to de-carb.

    Also why should I put H rated tires on a wagon that I drive at 55-70 MPH interstate
    when I can put Low rolling resistance tires that are rated Traction A temp B rated for 90 thousand miles.

    Anyway thanks in advance for any info

  • Hi,

    We've had our VW Jetta Turbo Diesel for like 4 years now. It is a 2003 Wagon. I just had a few questions.

    The check engine light came on two weeks ago and it was hard to start. Around that time it was around 7C (from Canada so we go by C not F) it didn't want to start very well so I brought it to the dealer where we got it and it had two bad glow plugs. Great like 200$ later on the way home. So two days after that the light comes on again. I make an appointment and I took it back today. It was the glow plug bar that connects all the glow plugs together. Or however it works. Anyways. The service guy says that they are harder to start from +7 to -2C than they would be if it was warmer or colder. Something due to the short time the plugs are on at that temperature. My question is, is that true? Or am I being fed lies? The car in the whole 4 years we've had it has never had any of the glow plugs replaced, has always been in for regular services and recalls. I think maybe there is 70,000Km's on that car.

    Next is should we add something to our diesel when it gets cold out? If so what does anyone reccomend or should I just buy from the dealer?

    Hoping to hear something :) :confuse:
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Does the car start ok, have good power, etc? I'm the first one to bang the "dealers suck" drum particularly when it comes to timing belts, but there's usually more symptoms than just poor mpg to a bad timing belt. That's a very dramatic change in fuel mileage. Dragging brake or even a combination of things. Check your tire pressure as dealer might have lowered it during service.

    Timing a TDI requires software and manual adjustments. And talent. Find a diesel mechanic that knows TDI's and he'll be able to do it with his eyes closed.

    You don't have to run H-rated tires. They tend to handle better, but if you're a conservative driver, go for a T or S rated tire and you'll get much better tire mileage and all-weather performance (typically).
  • Well
    The power seems okay, I bought it with 75k on it so I have nothing to compare it to
    I have read that Carbed up intake could decrease the power. I also hear that winter mix fuel and ULSD also can decrease power. I have cleaned Mass air sensor with the correct cleaner, I have ran Injector Cleaner SEAFOAM in a Half tank and Air filter is clean. The tires all have 44 psi around Using Nitrogen ( for what that is worth )

    I into the area where the boost pipe clamps on seems to be about 3/4 inch of carbon in there. Seems that would need to be cleaned esp when Head was off !!!
    I have to say When the HONDA accord Diesel hit here I am going for one !!
    Why in the Heck would not the dealer De-carb the intake when they were there and able to do it is Beyond Me !!! :mad:

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    To answer your question about tire ratings .... It is general practice to install tires based on the speed the vechicle CAN acheive... not on how the driver claimes he drives. This is a very basic safety rule for tires.

    Since VWs are designed to run all day long at 85+ MPH on the autobahn... most tire sellers will only install H-rated or above lest they may get sued if a question arises about the suitability of the tires for that vehicle.

    For example, Costco tires will not even consider selling you tires that are speed-rated below what their computer tells them about your vehicle.

    The bigger question about tires is WHY THE HECK WOULD ANYONE WANT >15inch TIRES? They ride tougher, protect the rims less and are farrrrr more expensive to replace that standard-sized tires.

    BTW: On my 2003 Jetta, I run Nokian WR tires.... In fact I run Nokian tires on all vehicles in the family.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,384
    I have four questions, if you'd be so kind.

    1. Do you notice any mpg advantage, penalty or is it neutral over oem tires? I currently have GY LS-H's

    2. What kind of mileage are you getting from a set? 50,000, 60,000 on up?

    3. What is the UTOQ rating for the WR? ( GY LS-H is 360)

    4. Would these tires be good running in more normal higher speed desert conditions?


    I looked at the specification page and the WR tires that I would use (195/65/15/ 91H )have 12.5/32nds over the usual 10/32nds.

    So for example all things being equal 2.5/32nds more can be a significant advantage.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Thought I'd jump in for a second. I switched to Nokian WR's in the 195/65 going into winter several years ago. I was very impressed at how well the Nokians handled in the dry. As for snow performance, I think you'd run out of ground clearance long before those tires would give up. Ice performance was also very good, but not like say a Blizzak which is tremendous but too compromising on dry handling for me.

    I noticed no change in mpg going to the Nokians over the stock Continentals. I don't have logs in front of me, but I think I ran two sets of Continentals and around 80k switched to the Nokians. I believe the last set went on around 130k miles and at 160k when the Jetta was totaled they still looked pretty good. So 50k miles would be a fairly reasonable number and I drive aggressive. The Jetta with Nokians felt like a tank in the snow. I got in some snow with the Civic the other day and 45mph was a bit scary as I was being tossed around a lot. I was really wishing I had my Jetta back (or my I don't know about desert conditions with the Nokians but they felt very good in the summer in southeast/midwest states.

    However, if you don't encounter snow regularly (i try to avoid it or drive something else, but I don't want to drive my truck all winter just in case.....) I'm not sure I'd bother with Nokians. Winter or lots of wet driving really is their forte but there are other tires that perform just as good in the dry.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,384
    Thanks for your input Sebring95 ! I am really trying to get my arms around the concept of the Nokian's. There seem to be still a few disadvantages to the Nokian's, despite the fact that almost EVERYONE I have talked with are almost universally impressed. As you and probably bpeebles probably know, there are a few more models of Nokian that would also be applicable. Besides the WR's, the i3's come to mind.

    As for the main reason why one would get Nokians (snow/ice), in CA here we have a pretty schizophrenic situation. If folks are interested or will indulge me, as the explanation is probably not on topic, I can do my best to explain. If not, I can delete or so can the host.

    When there is snow (where I would most likely go) in the mountains, the worst conditions require passing a so called chain control station. Now while we are required to carry chains for so called category one conditions, (just short of a blizzard white out), the realities are they will close the roads before that happens, to even snow removal equipment. Next level down, they allow snow removal equipment and if they do not have problems, would require folow on vehicles to "chain" UP except for SUV (with 4WD's). You can be required to chain up even Nokian equipped, up to dedicated snow tires. As I have indicated, they will let SUV's with 4WD with ALL SEASONS tires go ( with no chains). I can use an SUV, so have no real NEED to consider or put up to dedicated snows on the Jetta ,unless I absolutely insist on taking only IT. In addition, I would have to buy snow cables or chains. If I do not, I risk being turned back at the chain control points! The SUV also fits all the inevitable junk you have to or find yourself taking driving in snow anyway.

    The Nokian dealer indicator shows the nearest to me is app 160 miles R/T . Now I know if I search, I can probably get them delivered and mounted locally. Probably the best would be continue north to Oregon and get Nokian's mounted and balanced and tax free to boot! :) But at first research they appear to sell at a premium. So given my tire history, I would be looking to a min of 100k from a set. So my take is that is probably dreaming!?

    The overwhelming majority of my mileage was done on dry to DESERT dry conditions. I can almost count on one hand max two hands, how many times I have driven in a driving rain.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Well personally, I'd stick to the SUV. You know when you go that direction it's probably going to be crappy weather. And if the cost ratio you're looking for works out to 100k.....i think it'd be a stretch. I really know zip about Nokians other tires. If I KNOW I'm going to hit snow, I drive the truck. It has A/T's and gets around better than the Jetta with Nokians. Some folks say a FWD car with snow tires is better than a 4x4 with all-seasons and I might agree to a point, particularly ice. But A/T's make quite a difference on a 4x4, surely due to deeper tread. While it doesn't give me a ticket to run crazy speeds, I have a lot more flexibility. Instead of sitting in traffic the other day I could have just crossed the median with my truck (yeah I know it's illegal, sue me) and circled back to the previous exit. But driving in TN, KY, OH, IN you never know what's going to happen so I prefer to have the car setup to handle it the best possible.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Some of your questions were answered above. I have additional comments.

    I am getting a measured 56 MPG on the Nokian WRs. This is better than I was measuring with the original Michalins... but a TDI engine takes a long time to break in and may not have been fully loosened-up by the time they wore out. Also, I run about 35PSI in my tires to get the least rolling-resistance.

    I was VERY disapointed with the wear-rate of the original Michalins that came on my Jetta. Replacing them with the same tire would have been quite expensive and Michalin tires DO NOT HAVE A MILAGE WARANTEE like most other tires on the market do.

    Incase you were not aware, the Nokian WR is one of the rare tires on the market which carry the SEVERE SERVICE rating. which are suitable for use in snow. These are NOT the same as "all season" tires which are not rated for use in snow.

    Also, it is not obvious from reading the literature about the WR... but the "high silica" compound really means that there is microscopic powderd "sand" imbedded into the rubber. Among other benifets, this allows the tires to "bite" into ice where plain rubber tires just slide around.

    If you are not concerned with snow traction, perhaps somthing other than the WR would be more suitable for your driving conditions.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,384
    Thanks for your input bpeebles! How much did the Nokian WR's set you back? The local Costco will put on a set of Michelin Primacy MXV4's for app 120 each. Considering I have Toyo TPT's awaiting @ 60 each, that would indeed set the cost per mile driven very high. Against the GY LS-H, (110,000 miles) to get the same cost per mile driven, I would have to get 132,002- Michelin , 82,501 Toyo. The 82,501 miles seems more likely and do able.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I beleive my Nokian WRs were about $89 each. This includes lifetime rotation and flat-repairs. (That price was about 2 years ago)

    Did you ask about any "milage warantee" on those MXV4 s?

    I did not mention this before but one reason I am running Nokian on all my vehicles (including 2 daughters cars) is because they HONOR their wearout warantee without questions. I used to drive a 4-wheel-drive Honda Civic which tended to EAT tires due to the full-time 4x4. Nokian must have supplied me with 3 sets of prorated tires for that car. (I never paid more than $40 for ALL FOUR tires!!)

    Nokian also makes the best snow tire in the world. I once had vehicle with the Nokian "Hakkapeliitta" (studded) snowtires and it would go anywhere I pointed it. I could drive around cars which were spinning trying to get up hills.

    Now, instead of having 2 sets of tires mounted on seperate rims. I just run the Nokian WR year round. (I wonder if Nokian realizes they lost a lot of snow-tire sales when they came out with the WR?)
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,384
    "Did you ask about any "milage warantee" on those MXV4 s? "

    Yes. No is the answer to specific mileage warranty's for the OEM and over the counter purchases of the MXV4's. There never has been any warranty for those tires (among the other oem's) The PRIMACY (which bears the same MXV4 designation) does have a 60,000 mileage warranty.

    Costco does have a boiler plate generic 2/32 in warranty in 5 years or such

    Thanks to Sebring95 and you the input. On the next trip to OR, I will check out a dealer that carries these. It's nice to have a spare set of rims, so if it happens great, if it doesn't I just carried the spare set of rims for no real reason. Current online pricing seems to be app 118 each.
  • I'm looking into buying a freinds 06 Jetta TDI. I hear people talking about getting 50 + mpg out of them. He getting a steady 42 mpg. His is an automatic with 26,000 miles on it ( I here the autos are rated better then the man ) How are they getting 50 +, is it reasonable to expect 50 ?
  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    42MPG is reasonable. I'm driving an 02 automatic (130K) with a running average in the 40-42mpg range.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Claims of 50+ MPG are reasonable for the previous model Jetta TDI. However, comparing a 2006 Jetta TDI with the previous model Jetta TDI is an apples/oranges exercise. The 2006 is 9% heavier, has a 1.9 liter engine that puts out 14% more torque than the previous 1.9 liter engine, and has exterior and interior dimensions more similar to a 2004 Passat than a 2004 Jetta. The EPA rated the 2006 Jetta TDI DSG as getting 7% less fuel mileage than a 2004 Jetta TDI with an automatic and 14% less than a 2004 with a manual. With 20,000 miles on our 2006 Jetta TDI with DSG, we're getting 42-47 MPG in highway driving (55-80 mph) and 36-40 mpg in city driving. 42 MPG for mixed driving sounds reasonable.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Agree with the others. From what I've seen of the '05.5 and up models is less than the previous TDI's. I'm sure it's possible to get 50+mpg on the highway controlling your speeds, but 42mpg in a mix sounds pretty reasonable. The older style was much smaller and lighter and those model automatics were only gettting in the 40-45mpg range. The previous models with manual trannys would do well into the 45-55mpg range. So just don't get confused with the newer TDI's and the prior to '05.5 models.
  • thanks so much for your tip and all your help.
    I will have a new fuel filter put in asap. gisela
  • My engine light comes on and there is a loss of power whenever the light is on. When I hooked it up to a computer two code checks showed. 1, intake manifold flap. 2, turbo overload sensor. The mechanic that hooked it up said that with my milage,110,000, that the intake gets a little plugged with carbon buildup.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    To answer your other question about "is it reasonable to expect 50 ? "

    The automatic xmission really drags down the MPG due to losses in the xmission.

    My 2003 with manual xmission gets a measured 56 MPG on the highway while full of people and luggage with AC on full and 90F outside.

    The newer DSG xmission which has been described as an "automatic manual" has been shown to be able to match or beat MPG numbers of a manual xmission.

    Also, the 26,000 miles is not really enough to "losen up" a TDI engine. You will find that MPG continues to go up till about 40K miles. My TDI did not start getting 56MPG until about 50K miles.
  • smdtdismdtdi Posts: 31
    My keyless remote stopped working.

    The car is less than 3 years old.

    Any ideas on why this happened, and how to fix it?
  • I have a 2006 TDI that I bought new in July of '07. I now have 22K miles on it.
    I do quite a bit of highway driving for my job. I consistently get over 45 mpg and if I watch my speed (keep in under 70) I have gotten just over 50. When you're using the AC it is unlikely you'll do that. My car is a manual and all my trips are with just one occupant (me) although my wife and I just returned from a FL trip (2400 miles) and I got 46.6 mpg.
  • Do these have a battery? I am not sure. all I know is this: I got 2 remotes with the car 4 years ago,used. Remote(s) are now 6 years old. One went through a complete wash cycle in the washing machine and it still works! :D

    There must be a source of power in order for them to work.Phone dealer and ask.
    I find that the owners manuals these days are useless when you are trying to find something out! eg. My radio quit working,and I had to phone the service department to find out which fuse# is for the radio. Customers should be a nuisance and then they might start writing decent owners manuals! ;)
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    yes dieselfitter the remotes have a battery and easy way to replace the dealer service dudes should do this as a courtesy if for the cost of the battery.

    as for mpg, driverbernie, i have the same car and similar mpg numbers but i advise you to consider immediately to cease tracking the wife-onboard vs driver-only mpg numbers. :|
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Have you replaced the battery.

    The procedure to replace the battery is available using a simple internet search.

    Here is a procedure with photos...

    The battery is available at Walllmart in BOTH the jewlery section and the battery aistle too.
  • bannbann Posts: 2
    The automatic transmission lock will not go off when I press on the brake. Therefore the car will not move out of park. We cannot change gears. The car is stuck in park.
    It worked with much frustration and time but now nothing....just won't move.
  • bannbann Posts: 2
    In reply to my own message....we found a switch up around the brake assembly under the dash. We pushed around on it and we were able to get the car out of gear. Looks like a new needed.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Glad you figured it out. Let us know how it goes with the new switch.
  • You might try changeing the battery
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