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Even the local VW TDI guru (NOT DEALERSHIP!) has told me that he always sets IQ to very top of spec. when doing TB replacement.
THANK YOU!
Edmunds: MSRP $25458
Invoice $23986
TMV $25727
Thus $1384 under MSRP, and $88 over invoice.
Also, it does not appear if you have considerd in the PM (Preventive Maintenance) cost advantage of a diesel engine. For example, if your Volvo had a gasoline engine, you would have replaced sparkplugs, wires and several other ignition components many times over 300K miles. (and the engine would not have lasted that long anyway)
Additionally, most people with TDIs have discoverd that their MPG continues to increase over about 40,000 miles as the pistons seal within the cylinders. Most folks find that the EPA numbers are easy to surpass. (Expect over 55MPG on highway) If you plan on keeping your next car as long as your Volvo.. then a TDI is absolutely the right choice for you.
Finally, you are incorrect in assuming that performance does not match gasoline engine. The newer TDIs can easilly out accellerate an equal-displacement gasoline engine any day of the week. (All while consuming less fuel and creating less emmissions!)
Has anyone seen a message similar to this and knows what it actually said? I only saw it once, I'll have to check next time I start it up, I hope it wasn't anything too important.
With key out of ignition press and hold trip odometer reset button.
When trip odometer reads 0.0, keep pressing the button and insert the key into the ignition.
Turn the ignition to on (not start).
The display will read "Service Now".
Release the trip odometer reset button and press the "m" button to the bottom left of the tach.
The "Service Now" will disappear.
You can confirm the re-set by removing the key from the ignition and holding the trip odometer reset button for 3-5 seconds. The MFD will display the miles until next service.
Can anyone give me some tests to try? I noticed that occasionally there is a drip by the fuel pump. I'm thinking maybe with this leak I'm getting an air lock?
You did not say what year your TDI is so we do not know which engine you have. HOWEVER... failure to start most often points to one or more burned-out glowplugs. Depending on the year of your TDI... some of the GPs may not be "monitored". Newer TDIs actually run diagnostics on all the GPs each time you start the engine.
Hard-starting usually points to your IQ (Injection Quality) being set to improper value. A combonation of IQ being wrong and some burned-out GPs would really be hard to start in cold temps.
Keep im mind that IQ can 'drift' out of spec as the TB (TimingBelt) wears and should be checked at the same intervals as the TB.
My cars year is 2002, sorry about thiis little tidbid it would help.
There is also possibility of GP harness or GP relay issues.
For more details...you may also wish to read GlowPlugs 101 (All 9 pages of it.)
If you do end up pulling them, be VERY careful. Especially if they have never been out before. Make certain that the engine is STONE COLD. You may have to 'work' them out a little at a time, spray with some lube and re-tighten every 1/2 turn to keep from galling the threads in the aluminum head.
As you install each one, apply thin layer of antiseeze compound designed for aluminum.
Thank you for any light you can shed on this
PS - The manual did not have anything there was a two pager white insert but it was not very helpful.
With that said, there is a plethera of information about TDI fuelpumps on tdiclub.com site. The most common cause of leakage is from using BIOdiesel which can cause seals to soften.
I have inspected the EGR area and don't see anything wrong. Has anyone got any suggestions for what I can look for?
if you observe/listen with hood open while someone revs engine gently
to whatever rpm, you may be able to see/hear the exact location of possible vacuum leak.
Any leaks in the intake plenum will sould like a "whistle" as the turbocharger builds up pressure in the intake system. Check all connections from turbocharger, thru intercooler and into the intake manifold are correctly fitted.
In-fact, the TDI engine does not even have a throttle-cable. Instead the throttle-pedal is simply a rehostat which sends electric signals to the engine computer.
I do know that if the vehicle thinks that the brake-pedal is pushed, it will refuse to "throttle up" (your words). Given this, you can try pulling the brake-pedal up by hand and see if this helps the problem.
As for your "starting problem"... I would put money on the fact that your IQ is not set correctly. (Injection Quality) This is the #1 reason for hard starting TDI engine.
It is easy to check IQ using a VagCom
The TDIs start very well in the winter. Just wait for the glowplug lite to go out. The colder it gets... the longer it takes for the lite to go out. (more heating required)
Many folks find that the TDI is so durn efficent that it does not create enough heat to warm up the cabin. Thusly, they have installed TDI heater which preheats the engine before starting it. I use a TDI heater with a timer which heats for ~2-hours before starting the engine at 5:30AM every morning.
So, if the temperature sensor that tells the computer that the engine is warm already fails, then it may not turn the glow plugs on, and then it won't start.
I'm not sure, but I think the symptom would be that the glow-plug indicator lamp on the dashboard would not light up, or would light very briefly.
I've had to change all the glow plugs in my '98 NB TDI, which my son now drives.
Our 2009 Jetta TDI Wagon Hi-Line is being prepped at the dealer, and they have to install the mud flaps and tint the windows before we take posession
So the normal oil change interval is 10k miles?
Thanks, NJ.
So if you are the stereotypical car owner that is at the 10th year.
This is mostly due to a diesel having absolutely no ignition-system to deal with. (sparkplugs, wires, distributer...etc)
Most of the other maintenance costs are about the same. ESPECIALLY since the newer gassers are now Synthetic oil. This makes these 2 engine-types the same in the way of lubrication cost.
If I were asked to think of DIFFERENCES between Diesel and gasser in terms of PMs. I would have to say the FUEL FILTER on the diesel is larger. That is about it.
Diesel = Larger fuel filter
Gasser = Ignition system components to PM
Brother's 06 TDI is gone now. He hit 2 deer at once - got the front, hood, both front doors, windshield, air-bags, and the top. One deer somehow swung around trying to go into the driver's side window. Front and side air-bages saved him from injury. He took the insurance money, bought a 09 CR Jetta and didn't look back. :shades:
More on the serious side, VW maintenance intervals can be much more extended if one knows what one should be doing, or looking for. So while part of it is: do not try this at home.... While under the warranty (which is meager anyway) by all means do what is necessary to comply with warranty requirements and IF it requires warranty there are no issues. After that you self warranty ANYWAY as they always remind you when you look for warranty service after the warranty service is OVER!!??.... So for 3 other examples (with yours counts 4) 1. air filter requirements actually have been shown to be mis-measured. I have literally almost doubled the interval and it actually filters better!? 2. My Japanese Civic has needed 3 alignments in the span of time the Jetta has needed NONE (79,000 miles vs 114,000 miles-GTG to 200,000 miles!!?? ) 3. oem to built for oem oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 mile intervals.
After I bought my TDI, I changed the oil and all the filters right away. Even though the car was nice and clean under the hood the air filter was bulged out in the middle and the fuel filter was corroded, looking like it had never been changed. Surprisingly, it ran fine and I couldn't tell any difference with the new filters. What really made the difference in how it runs was putting it on the highway for 12K miles. Runs like a different engine now.
I used to do oil changes on my wife's 1996 Volvo wagon (and normally all our other cars), then when she got a 2004 Volvo V70 it had a new type oil filter with a replaceable inner element which I wasn't familiar with. When the 3 or 4 years of dealer free maintenance was over I took it to a quick lube place because I didn't want to pay the dealer price, the other place was closer, faster, cheaper, and I could observe the oil change. I used to take my 1991 Dodge to this quick place with no problem. I would give them a Mobile1 filter and the exact oil I wanted used.
For this V70 I gave them a Volvo filter insert, O-ring seal, and 6 qts of Mobile1 10W-30 Extended Service oil.
They didn't have the right wrench to remove the filter housing and the cheapo wrench I had got from Volvo broke when they tried to use it. (Volvo had a better one but I got the cheaper one.) The quick lube staff had already drained the oil by the time it was clear that they couldn't get the filter housing off. They put the drain plug back in and I had them add their regular oil.
Then I went to Volvo dealer, bought the better wrench (they gave me credit for the broken one), went home, drove the front wheels on my too low but fail-safe solid wood, 35-year-old ramps. The filter came right off with the new wrench, but I could not get the drain plug off. It looked to me like it had been installed without the aluminum crush washer which I had supplied. I had only 12-sockets and rounded off the plug. Then I went back to Volvo in my wife's car and got a new plug and crush washer and advice. Volvo service said to use vice grips, if that failed it would have to be drilled and tapped.
But back at home, under the too low ramps, I could not get a good angle to apply force and just chewed up the plug with the visegrips. I stopped at this point. The car had fresh dino oil and a clean filter. I drove it that way for 3 or 4 kmi. During this time I worried that the steel plug had ruined the threads in the aluminum oil pan and researched systems for drilling and tapping to install a steel insert into aluminum.
Finally, I took it to a good independent Volvo shop where I could watch the work being done. I wanted to see how a competent worker did it. He tried a couple of different wrenches and neither worked. I thought the quick lube and I had really done some costly damage.
When the tech picked up an air chisel and aproached the plug I thought destruction and costly replacement was at hand. But he chiseled tangentially on the plug in the direction to rotate it counterclockwise and it loosened immediately. (As I had thought there was no crush washer.) And the threads were OK. The tech put it the new plug and washer I had gotten from Volvo, changed the filter, and put in my 6-qts of Mobile1.
Point being go to the dealer or other qualified service place for the warranty maintenance.
I'm also open to any other suggestions/advice in buying the TDI.
--The increased Cetaine quiets down the engine and gives you 2-4 more MPG.
--The lubricant protects your very expensive injection-pump
I always ALWAYS add about 6 oz of PowerService at every fillup (WHITE bottle in winter / GREY bottle in summer) All WallyMarts carry PowerService.
I have been driving in Vermont winters for 6 years with absolutely no jelling at all. You will have more issues with getting heat from the engin than from jellin.
Even if you chose to never add fuel-conditioner, your local fuel supplier adds kerosene to the diesel as the temps get colder. Also, the TDI is designed to heat the fuel as you drive so the fuel-filter is kept warm. Any paraffan in the fuel will melt and pass thru the filter.
If you are the nervous-type of person, just keep a spare fuel-filter in the trunk. Any jelling problems will be resolved by replacing filter.
You can also carry a bottle of DIESEL-911 in the trunk... guaranteed to instantly resolve any jellin.
Dont forget that jelling ONLY is a problem if enough paraffan particals build up on the fuel-filter to stop the flow of fuel... this is very VERY unlikely to happen.
Contray to what some folks may think... jelling DOES NOT affect starting the engine at all. Instead, a jelling problem will manifest itstelf by causing engine to stall out after driving for several miles.
The 1.9 ltr TDI's could carbon up enough to eventually stop the engine, and the clean up process is expensive, dirty and doesn't really solve the problem.
I have heard that the new 2 ltr TDI engine is a complete re-design, so am curious if anyone has heard that the clogging up problems of the older engines has been resolved.
There is/was of course a wide range of variance. On a 03 TDI, run the majority of its(114,000 ) miles life on LSD had ZERO intake carbon/gunk buildup. I suspect I will need little to no cleaning at 200,000 miles or @ the second 100,000 miles, when the TB/WP changing is due.