VW Jetta TDI

ruking1

So by inference you are saying that is not happening across the board???

( Honda, Toyota, etc.,are hurting.) You can shoot a cannon off in a Honda/Toyota dealership and damage a lot of inventory)

It makes all the sense in the world to keep used cars as long as possible regardless of the current economic climate.

So IF you are in the market FOR a (new, I just cited the almost 4k advantage a used VW TDI has over a VW gasser) TDI Jetta etc., THEN now is the time @ invoice or if the opportunity presents itself, LESS than invoice !!

I got mine at invoice plus a small profit. I also got a Civic at 10% under invoice and the economic situations weren't anything NEAR what it is now.

A relative just recently got an (new) Acura 4,000 BELOW invoice. .9% (less than 1% financing) was also offered.

gagrice

It is evidenced by my local dealer has a slew of Jetta and Sportwagen TDIs on the lot right now.

That is a direct reflection of the American knee jerk reaction. When I bought my 2005 Passat TDI in April of 05, I was able to buy well under invoice. Diesel was higher priced than RUG. When I sold it 13 months later the prices had switched and diesel was cheaper than RUG. I sold for $3000 more than I paid to a couple from AZ. They could have bought when I did as there was a good supply the year before. Now is the time to buy that VW TDI if you are thinking about it. Under invoice is easy to negotiate. Who knows what tomorrow will bring. If oil jumps and diesel is $4.80 and RUG $4 the diesel is a no brainer.

ruking1

Even among friends, I don't mention the fuel mileage on the TDI anymore, unless they cue me they are ok with the REAL answer.

bpeebles

A lot of folks do not consider the long-term maintenance cost when they purchase a vechicle... the TDI is among the lower cost with NO sparkplugs to change, NO ignition wires to change and the 10,000 miles OCI (Oil Change Interval). Even though the fuel and oil filter cost a bit more than gasser.... the overall cost comes out lower in the long run.

When I was looking to purchase my truck (Dodge Dakota), The automatic Xmission cost about $1000 more AND had to be 'serviced' every 25K miles for about $200. I orderd the manual xmission witch added NO xtra cost to my purchase price and needs no more than an occasional check of the lube-level. (Not to mention that automatic xmission tends to be more troublesome than manual.)

I would bet that I was one of the ONLY people that inquired about PM (Planned Maintenance) cost while I was talking to the salesman.

c280

New owners of the '09 TDI, do you plan on doing your first oil change at 10,000 miles or earlier? I was having a side conversation with a rep at the VW dealership and he said he would do the first oil change before 10,000 miles because of the possibility of metal chips. What do you all think?

cosmo

I do not know what the maintenance requirements for the '09 TDI are, but for the '04 and '06 TDI's the first oil change was due at 5,000 miles. Subsequent oil changes were due at 10,000 miles and then every 10,000 miles thereafter.

shrifty

When I purchased my TDI, they said I wouldn't need to be back until 10,000 for the next service. Currently I am at almost 7,000 miles, heading in next week for the 90 day/5,000 miles (kinda passed that up by a few miles, at least it is still under 90 days) courtsey check. I'll ask to see if they think the oil should be changed earlier. I didn't notice anything in the manual either, but I could be wrong.

c280

There are varying opinions as to when to do the first oil change. Some say due to metal chips (because it's a new engine) they rather do it earlier to flush out the metal chips. This is the cautious approach. Others say the oil that comes with the car is designed to help the break-in process so no need to change the oil early. Do you buy the metal chips argument?

Shrifty, I'm impressed. The TDI was released in August and you have already driven 7,000 miles.

bpeebles

Alhough there is slim to none chance for "metal chips" to be present in the first place. Any ferrous chips would stick to the magnet which VW has been perminantly installing in every engine for over 30 years. The OIL FILTER would catch any non-ferrous which may get picked up by the oil pump.

I have said this many times before.... only the people who GET PAYED to change oil will tell you you need more frequent oil-changes.

With the TDI engine... the QUALITY of the oil is much more important than the frequency. There have been oil-related failures by people using the WRONG oil....but the properly-speced oil has been shown to go well over 20,000 miles with no unusual wear-particals being detected in the oil-samples.

BEWARE OF VW DEALERSHIPS THAT USE THE WRONG OIL IN YOUR TDI ENGINE!!! (this not an uncommon occourance)

gagrice

BEWARE OF VW DEALERSHIPS THAT USE THE WRONG OIL IN YOUR TDI ENGINE!

Especially in California where they have little experience with the TDI engine. Drew VW in San Diego that I used for my Passat TDI did carry the proper oil. I got the dealer in Oregon to throw in a case of the correct oil and a couple filters when I bought the car. I did not want to take a chance that the CA dealer would not have the proper oil.

littlerhody

My 2009 TDI is nearing 9000 miles. I checked the odometer calibration since it appeared I was racking up the mileage. It is accurate and I suspect that my enjoyement in driving the 6 speed standard is to blame. Anyway, at about 8000 miles the dash will start to remind you that service is due in about 1500 miles (10K). This is the first hint of service and is consistant with the 10K oil change interval. My car purchase includes the cost of scheduled service for the first 36K miles. This amounts to about 3 oil changes. At the rate I am going that should bring me to the end of 2009.
So far no complaints about the new wheels. Averaging about 38 or 39 mpg in the winter. 50/50 highway driving. Was a bit higher in the summer. I am seeing diesel at about 90 cents more than regular which is nice. Maybe some day it will go back to being less than gas.

c280

"So far no complaints about the new wheels. Averaging about 38 or 39 mpg in the winter. 50/50 highway"

Thanks for the feedback but just a few questions:
1. Does the stick shift have a sport mode?
2. I believe the tire rotation is also at 10K miles, is there also a reminder on the dash for the tire rotation?
3. When you take the car in for service (oil and rotation) can you ask that they check your back brakes and report back on the condition of the pads?
4. What temperature setting do you use to avoid the fogging up of the windshield and windows early in the morning when it's cold?

littlerhody

1. There is no sport mode with the stick shift.
2. The dash reminder is not specific as to what service needs to be performed.
3. I will ask them to check the rear brakes. Do you suspect an issue with the TDI rear brake?
4. The only window fogging I have experienced is in damp rainy weather. What I did notice was that the AC does not automatically go on when the front defrost is engaged. This usually means that I have to turn the AC on for a little while to remove fogging. The up side is that the AC is not running when not needed.

shrifty

I actually bought my car on September 27th, will be 3 months after Christmas. Not sure what to think about the metal chips, I think at this point it might be too late to be concerned with it. I think it may have been an issue at one point, but maybe not so much anymore?

shrifty

With the brake pads, isn't there a sensor to let you know when the pads need to be replaced? Also, how many miles could one expect the pads to last?

ruking1

It is a TOTAL non issue !!!

I would just follow the next due oil change schedule AND make VERY sure they actually use the VW specified 507.00 (as per the owners manual) and not the stock barrel stuff, unless it happens to be VW 507.00 specified oil !!!!!

c280

"Do you suspect an issue with the TDI rear brake"
There is a big concern on this forum regarding the rear brakes on the Jettas in general. I don't think it's limited to the gasser only. One person on the forum suggested not using the hand brake.

Regarding the AC: I get serious fogging up when it's cold in the morning (36 degrees) even with the AC on and the temperature set to 72 degrees. I noticed sometimes that if I don't turn on the AC/heat right after starting the car I encounter the terrible fogging up of the windows and windshield. I prefer to wait a few minutes after the engine is running before turning on the AC/heat but still no guarantee against the fogging up and when it fogs up it's hard to get rid of the fog(the moisture on the windows inside the car). I'm trying to figure out the correct tempearture setting to avoid the fogging.

altair4

That much of a problem with fogging would make me suspect other issues - possibly a water intrusion issue, or even a leaking heater core. Are you getting any unusual smells in the car? Moldy? Or that anti-freeze smell? You might want to check all around the interior of the car for wetness in the carpets. Look in the trunk, too. Check the spare tire wheelwell.

c280

The only smell the car has is the smell of a new car '09-TDI (the leatheret). No water intrusion. I think it is because it's a disel engine. Someone on this forum said the diesel engine takes a longer time to warm up, consequently it takes a longer time for the cabin to heat up. Someone even posted a picture showing what they put in the front bumper when it's winter to trap the heat inside. I get the fogging sometimes when the temperature drops below 36 degrees. I really think I need to figure out the correcting temperature setting when it's cold to prevent the fogging.

shrifty

This is good to hear. I just stopped by the dealership today for the 90 day check and asked about the oil change. They definately use VW 507 00 and were suprised when I mentioned some of the comments on this board about dealerships that aren't using the correct oil. I picked up a quart of oil today when I was there, cost $8.14 a liter (I know, I could probably get it cheaper somewhere else). The oil is Castrol SLX Professional LL03 SAE 5W-30 if anyone is interested.

bpeebles

The INSIDE FRONT DRIVERS pad has a sensor. It will illiminate the "brake" lamp on the dash. Under normal conditions, that is the pad which will wear the fastest so all is well.

I got about 90,000 miles on my brakes. The pads were only about 1/2 warn down but the rotors were so badly rusted that I just replaced all 4 rotors and pads. (purchased "brake set" from www.tdi.com. For around $230 and an afternoon in the driveway, I ended up with all new brakes AND flushed the hydrolic systems )

Your milage may vary.... my driving-habits get up to 55MPG and I use the brakes as little as possible.

bpeebles

I have to ask... are you CERTAIN that you never-ever use the "recirculate" button? Using "recirculate" is a sure-fire way to cause fogging of the interiour. (This fact is also mentioned in owners-manual)

Lets assume you do not have any water-leaks.

To "fix" your problem...
1) Remove any "mats" from the floor.
2) Go for a drive with FULL HEAT and FULL FAN blowing on the carpets.
3) Keep that hot air blowing for at least an hour!
4) Even open the rear of the sunroof a bit to encourage the moist air to exit the cabin.
5) Once the interiour is "dry as a bone", reinstall the dried mats.

To keep interiour dry, ALWAYS blow a lot of air thru the cabin. You may adjust the heat... but keep the air flowing. SURPRISE... the answer is AIRFLOW and not heat. You need force the moisture out of the cabin while it is a gas. Otherwise, when the interiour cools, it will re-condense on the windows over and over and over...all winter long.

If you end up dragging some snow into the car during the winter, MAKE CERTAIN that you blow hot air at the floor until it is totally evaperated.

Anytime I am going to be in the car for over an hour during the winter, I remove my parka and let the heat blow full force for most of my drive. I have not ever had any condensation problems. (except when the "recirculate" button gets hit accidently)

I know of 2 instances where a sunroof was left open during a HEAVY rainstorm. Water came OUT when the door was opened. Uisng the above procedure dried the vehicle out completely. (Before mold set in!)

redvw

Has anyone put body side molding on a 2009 TDI? I have not seen this offered as a factory option, but am interested in preventing other drivers from putting dents on my new vehicle.

ruking1

The real problem with body side mouldings is the "TBD" offending door has to line up EXACTLY with the place you mount your body side moulding.

redvw

The real problem with body side moldings is the "TBD" offending door has to line up EXACTLY with the place you mount your body side moulding.
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That being the case should I skip this as a dealer add on? I often park in parking lots, and pick up door dings.

ruking1

Depends on cost. If they throw it in as part of the deal, yes... then it depends on how it looks. Real effective side mouldings are usually massive and almost by default UGLY. For us it is an exercise in trying to park near folks who actually ARE careful, to parking in places and in such a way door swinging does NOT hit ours.

ecotrklvr

I had a similar experience a few years back. So, don't be upset by the simple question, because it can lead to simple answer: Is your heating/air conditioning system in Recirc mode?

I had a friend who's car had a vacuum hose disconnected. It left his heater in permanent Recirc mode - in Michigan. In January. It fogged up like crazy. We called his car "Tunnel Vision". I found the hose, reconnected it, and all was well. Just a thought.

cosmo

I installed the factory side moldings on our 2006 Jetta. If the installer follows the instructions exactly, the moldings are applied at the height of the car's widest point. I have found the moldings to be effective in protecting against the doors of other cars, minivans, and 2WD pickups. For SUV and 4X4 pickup doors that are kicked open by drivers with a cell phone in one hand and an espresso in the other, you'll have to protect your Jetta like a Mars probe during landing.

c280

When do you use the "recirculate" button? I thought you used it to circulate the heat or AC through out the car, so I always have it on. Am I not using it correctly?

kyfdx

Nope.. recirculate button recirculates air from inside the car, rather than bringing in fresh air from outside to then heat or cool..

That's why your windows are fogging up.. No way to get rid of the humidity inside the car... Turn the recirculate button off..

shrifty

Thanks for the info. Since most (almost all) of my driving is highway, I rarely use my brakes. I should be fine for quite a few miles.

ecotrklvr

I generally use the "non-recirc" and think of it as outside or "fresh" air. The only time I use Recirc is for short periods of time: when it's really hot and want to cool down the car quickly; when it's really cold and want to heat up the car quickly; or when I drive up I-15 northbound from CA-91 and go past the pig farms. Sometimes when I get stuck at a light behind a diesel truck.

Fresh air coming in will keep exhaust fumes out of your vehicle's interior. Some of these fumes are odorless, and toxic - even deadly.

shrifty

I just received an email from Klaus, a Volkswagen engineer on this subject today (automated email from VW).

"Hello! My name is Klaus, Volkswagen engineer. Engineering is my life. I helped engineer your 2009 Jetta, and I want you to experience Volkswagen engineering to the fullest. So here are five well-engineered features that can come in very handy when the elements intervene while driving.

Learn three things you can do quickly with the Climatic system.
Climatronic®—just trust it!

The two links below describe the control settings to heat/cool the car, as well as clear the windshield. It also discusses the recirculate button as well.

http://www.vw.com/ownerwelcome/jetta/theelements/climatic/en/us/?adID=email:jett- aelements_IQS:climatic

http://www.vw.com/ownerwelcome/jetta/theelements/climatronic/en/us/?adID=email:j- ettaelements_IQS:climatronic

c280

Hi all, due to my lack of knowledge concerning the 'recirculate button' and earlier feedbacks, I went and read the car manual. It's pretty clear that using the 'recirculate button' in specific instances will cause the windows to get real foggy. Now I know what to do. However, there is something funky, unusual, strange whichever word you prefer about the Climatic system in the '09-TDI. From day one, back in August, driving the car home with the AC running, I noticed there was a little fog on the windshield right below the rear view mirror that I just could not get rid off. I later discovered that there is an extra vent on top of the dashboard that blows air on to the windshield if that's your preference. The other option is to close that vent so the air blows into the car instead of on the windshield. The problem from my experience is that you need the air blowing onto the windshield because you always get some fogging even when you follow the VW settings as listed. I think it's a design flaw. I have never had this issue with other cars. Now that it's cold and with the heat on, you have to constantly turn the AC on and off to get rid of the fog on the windshield.

goldgary1

HI Redvw. I have an 09 TDI, and wanted the extra protection using side molding. I bought a set from dealership. Only one color, grey, to use on Jetta. Cost was $149.00. Its put on by sticky tape. No holes are drilled. I would normally do it my self, but I had dealer do it due it being cold here in NH now. Cost for service was $98.00 std. shop rate for 1 hour.

I think it will save the side of cars from dings. Without moldings, those doors are ding magnets. The moldings were cheap, but it will help in the long run. Moldings themselves don't look bad either. Hope this helps.

Oh.. FWIW . I am getting winter driving, 40-43 mpg. with winter mix fuel. Late summer I was getting 45-48 mpg. This is going back and forth to work, 85% highway. The cold does do a number on mpg.

Gary

redvw

Thank you for the reply.

rv65

Apparently there will be a sporty TDI trim next year for the Jetta. It comes with the Thunderbunny body kit, 18" wheels, special trim and a sport suspension. The EC model will come out next year. My carspace gallery has a picture of the thunderbunny kit and it's ugly.

etracey

I just checked the IRS.gov web site and the 2009 Jetta is not listed as one of the 2009 autos that are eligible for a tax credit.????

shrifty

Hi etracey, it's there. You may have been looking under the Hybrid section.

http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/0,,id=187546,00.html
http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/0,,id=157632,00.html

Advanced Lean Burn Technology Vehicles
Purchasers of advanced lean burn technology motor vehicles may claim a credit of $1,300 per vehicle.

Make
Model
Credit Amount

Volkswagen 2009 Jetta –2.0L TDI Sedan manual and automatic $1,300
Volkswagen 2009 Sportwagen –2.0L TDI manual and automatic $1,300

Sorry I can't find the correct form that needs to be filled out, but the Jetta TDI is definately on the list.

shrifty

If I'm not mistaken, the Alternative Motor Vehicle Credit form 8910 is the one you will need to fill out.

c Advanced lean burn technology vehicle. This is a vehicle with an internal combustion engine that incorporates direct injection, is designed to operate primarily using more air than is necessary for complete combustion of the fuel, and that meets certain additional requirements.

http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f8910.pdf

redvw

Did your dealer charge you any additional fee for this swap?

bpeebles

ABSOLUTEY NOT!.... that is considerd the normal and standard way to get the VWs which the customer wants into their hands. The "swaping" is between the dealerships and the buyer should not need to bother with the details. Obviously, a dealership with a larger inventory is in a better position to dicker with other dealerships reguarding a 'swap'.

Besides, I do not play the dealership "game" of dickering on the price. I tell them up-front that I am busy and will not particapate in such games. Most dealerships, when informed of this, will accept any reasonable offer. (Most are happy to get 4% over their dealer-cost)

1st) I read thru the sales broschure and determined the vehicle, color, options...etc that I desired.
2nd) I telephoned the dealership and told them what I wanted and what I was willing to pay for it.
3rd) Delership called me back 10 minutes later and said they could have the car I wanted by Wednesday.

The 1st time I set foot on the dealers lot was to pick up my new VW. The salesman spent about 30 minutes explaining all the neto features right down to how to reprogram the radio if the battery power is lost. He also explained to NEVER leave the heated mirrors turned on lest they will burn out. (Did you know there is a "center" sunshade above the rearview mirror?)

BTW: I drive past 2 other VW dealerships to get to this one which is 1.5 hour drive from my house.

redvw

Local dealer in Long Island, NY wants $250 to get a TDI which is located in Ma. Stated it is an overnight trip.

rv65

If you're an iPod owner with a 2009 model with Nav you'll need 000 051 446 C. This is the special iPod cable for the Media-In port. You get full integration and it's a little pricey. The BMW cable costs over $350. 000 051 446 C can be obtained at your dealer or online. Shouldn't cost no more than $70 but people are paying around $50 to $55 for it.

rv65

This cable does work with the iPhone as well. It also charges the iPod/iPhone while driving.

rv65

The BMW USB/Aux port is $400 but the cable is included.

paddler2

I just had my alternator replaced over the weekend. This morning, my car was hesitating as I accelerated and started belching some black smoke. Then my MIL light came on. Any ideas?

bpeebles

It is a sure bet that the act of replacing the alternator caused this problem.

05TDI

I have a early 05 Jetta TDI/w 5 speed auto. I have a little over 100K on it, and have never had any engine issues, until now. I changed the timing belt a few weeks ago using a tool kit from dieselgeek to lock the engine components in place. I turned the engine over by hand(wrench) after with no issues. Started and drove the car when I was done and no problems. It took a few days to have cold temps out, but as soon as it got cold and every time since, if I start it when it's cold it idles rough; low then high RPM, and the engine is unresponsive to the pedal until the idle returns to normal, usually a minute or two. Then it runs as normal until it sits in the cold again. I took it to a VW mechanic for trans flush and while he was connected to it he looked and found no codes of any sort. He suggested air in the fuel line as I had also changed the filter, but i have put 2K miles since and it hasn't improved any. The dealer changed what they call the injection pump just after I got the car new, and I have had no problem of any sort until I changed the timing belt, but I don't know how this could have caused this. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

badvw7

It could be a stuck closed "intake flap", located in front of
the EGR valve...

When looking at the engine, it's located behind & to the left
of the oil filler cap.

Follow the black intake tube/hose (on the left) to where it
attaches on the intake... that's the intake flap/EGR.

Make sure the black rod is fully extended away from the black
pod (the vacuum operated device that sucks the rod in).