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Second, the idea that Hyundai offers a bigger rebate on the V6 Sonata because it is defective is, to put it mildly, utterly preposterous. Unless you have some proof for trash talk like that, how about keeping it to yourself so we can discuss the 2006+ Sonata here rather than your unsubstantiated attacks on it.
As for thirstiness... do you think maybe Honda should increase its incentives on the V6 Accord, since the V6 AT is even more "thirsty" than the Sonata V6 AT? :P
It is possible that the V6 mileage reading are being taken too soon and after a little break in time, the mileage goes up. Anyone out there done several readings on gas mileage. As for engine choices, Honda has an excellent reputation in the engine building field. I have no idea how good or bad the Hyundai engines will be, as they are totally new.
-Loren
I haven't seen any ads saying the 6 was $1500 less than the I4. Can you point me (and others) to the ads you are referencing?
It sounds like there's something literally smacking the underside of the car - not like normal shock absorber compression.
I am taking it to the dealer this week to see if they can advise on any fix.
My mileage went up just under 2mpg from brand new to 4K miles. Right now it's getting 27mpg on a 20 mile, 70% highway commute. I got 29.7 on a recent trip of 80% highway 20% town driving. All figures are with the A/C running. I expect it to settle down to 30mpg on trips, but have no idea about pure city driving, since I live in a rural area. I'm betting it's not too impressive, probably ~20-21mpg.
This engine is not real new any more. It's been around for over a year. The outlook seems to be very good, as I have not heard of a single problem with it so far.
I think you are right- Hyundai expected to sell more V6 than 4 cylinder, but now the situation has changed. Let's hope these rumors about the engine are just imagination. We should know within 2-3 years when the maintenance data come out.
I have heard that the Civic fuel numbers are overstated. Do you get 35 in the city, or hwy, or combined? Also, from what I have read, the 2006 Corolla actually does get the 40 MPG claimed on the highway and better than 30 in the city. You have a good point- if one wants a large, powerful car, they pay the price either in gas or in initial purchase price (i.e. hybrid accord). I would definitely drive both the 4 and the 6 extensively before choosing. And consider whether you have a lot of gear or guests in the car, because it can make a big difference. Also, driving in mountainous areas, the 6 should last longer. But if you live in California, with gas prices headed to 3.50 and up, consider carefully. I know that the resale on the 6 is horrible right now. It may not mean anything, but if you had to change cars for some unforseen reason, it could be a deal breaker.
I wish you the best!
I hope the Sonata Hybrid can compete with the Camry Hybrid. Like the Accord Hybrid is a pure disappointment. Why did honda even bother? :lemon:
Anyone know if or when it will be out? :shades:
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
You probably know this, but Hyundai already has a diesel engine plant in production. I'm sure it wouldn't take much to build one that would sufficiently motivate the Sonata. I think diesel would be the perfect IC engine for hybrid cars. Since a Sonata-sized car can easily get 40mpg from a diesel, it should be able to get 50mpg in hybrid configuration. I wonder why any of the manufacturers don't offer a diesel hybrid? Maybe someone can enlighten me.
They also say to stay between 2000 rpm to 4000 rpm. At 65mph i am a little over 2100, 55mph would be below 2000 (i think... haven't actually been able to go this slow
In the USA and Canada there are very few people buying cars with diesel motors and until they start, then don't count on the manufactures spending millions of dollars to build it. This is how i see it anyhow and i have been wrong before.
If you don't want XM and wouldn't use it anyway, it doesn't matter, but you will regret being impatient if XM is a feature you want.
Small Diesel engine design has changed considerably since I owned a string of Diesel engined cars in the mid-seventies through the early eighties. One significant change is the increase in compression ratios from the mid-upper-teens in indirect injection designs to the low twenties in direct injection current production. While more efficient, the higher compression ratios also dictate much more powerful starting motors and batteries. Higher compression ratios also dictate more robust reciprocating components and much more highly refined and higher quality motor oil. (an energy intensive process in its own right... ka-ching) Hybrids, so far as the ones I've investigated are concerned, cut their gasoline engines when stopped and restart as needed as their drivers press the accelerator pedal to get underway again. In a diesel iteration, that's additional wear and tear on already highly stressed electrical accessories. I'm not saying these challenges are insurmountable, but engineering a Diesel hybrid will definitely result in a heavier and costlier vehicle than current gasoline hybrid designs. This country no longer needs a good, 25 cent cigar, but rather a good, 25 dollar, 1-megawatt, 20 lb. fusion reactor that'll cleanly "burn" raw sewage...
Never thought of that. You're right! It would be brutal on the starter, and possibly even the engine.
I think it's a fudge factor. It's probably because they don't want you to go 100mph while breaking in.
No question but that there's automaker fudge factor involved. However, many owners of new cars don't understand that more than the engine is running-in. Automatic and manual transaxles' gears are establishing their working mesh pattern and friction surfaces are seating against their driven plates, too. Ditto brake pads against their rotor. When I bought my '73 Ford and later cars up through my '96 Accord, the general rule of thumb for the run-in period was around 500-600 miles. My '03 Sonata specified a 1,200 mile run-in period, keeping the vehicle speed within 55 mph. I figured, "Leave it to the Koreans to buck current established practices!", but I followed my owner's manual instructions. (and, yes, 55 mph was agonizing!) Now, I notice on the Camry discussions that Toyota recommends a 1,000 mile run-in period (not sure what the speed restriction is). File under, "the-more-things-change-the-more-they-stay-the-same". If owners disregard the automaker's run-in suggestions, will dire things happen? Dunno, but if I'm gonna err, I'd rather err on the side of caution - me and my 2003 Sonata'll be joined at the hip for quite some time to come.
I think the Getz gets 55 MPG highway and over 40 city.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I took the car to the dealer last Saturday. They checked the windows and windshield wiper and said nothing was loose. They finally drew the conclusion that the windows noise is a typical sound, nothing needs to be worried. I was not satisfied with that conclusion and saying even my 93 corolla does not have that loud noise. They showed great cooperation to solve my problem. The manager came out and rode my car with me. After a 15 minutes driving on highway, they let me drive another LX V6 (with 4k miles on it, my car got 600 miles already)with the manager for comparison purpose. That LX does have similar windows noise, but it seems a little bit smaller than mine. The manager said he suspected the noise was from the mirror, he thought Sonata has a much larger mirror than corolla, so got bigger noise. He suggested me to keep drving my car and come back to dealer again whenever I find the noise is bigger. He even said he would like to make an appointment for me with a expert from the manufacture to see whether we overlooked somthing if I want.
I brought the car back from the dealer without any fix. The windows noise is still there as soon as the speed is over 70MPH. It is not loud, but is noticeable. Any GLS V6 owner here got the same windows noise? Any suggestion? Thanks.
maybe you have a sensitive ear? :confuse:
I'm a little over 16k now, and I originally wasn't planning on getting my oil changed until 18.5k, but when I was checking oil levels a couple days ago, I saw the oil was pretty dark... I know this is normal, but is 7500 between oil changes really okay? I've put in Mobil 1 starting from the first oil change because I thought 7500 was such a long interval... I noticed my sister's Santa Fe's manual also says 7500 between oil changes...
http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/06/14/011176.html
Thanks