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Comments
With the LX you will be gaining more features than the leather seats... You will be gaining heated seats and I think that the digital A/C controls and Outside temp only come on the LX.. I am not sure about that..
This is true (the leather interior) with the 2006 Sonata, but not true with other marques. I bought a new 1985 SAAB 900 in April 1985 with heated seats, and it had the standard velour interior. According to the SAAB manufacturers rep, the material was not of a special design. And, the seats after over 20 years of service show very little wear, as does the remainder of the interior except for the cracked dash pad and a droopy headliner (easily replaced) - both typical SAAB 900 maladies.
We've been looking at a 2006 Sonata, and am trying to convince my wife to go with the LX, but she's never liked leather seats. Too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter . . .
Thanks!
The same principle applies to average MPG. Wife had an '88 LeBaron Turbo. At first I thought she was too heavy on the foot, but I was wrong. She's get gas 7/10's mile from home. 1/2 mile of that is up a steep winding hill. If I got in the car and headed in the other direction and drove 5 or 6 miles the average MPG would almost double.
The trip computer is giving you the actual measurement since it was reset and includes all the time the engine is running, even if you are stopped. Don't got by one tank of gas, or even 2. Look at it over at least 2 tanks. My '05 Sonata doesn't have trip computer & I miss it...however it has many more features than my previous car.
But it does seem your MPG is low. My '05 2.7L V6 got 28 MPH in 1300 strictly highway miles (except for about 3 miles to stop overnight). That's where I stopped calculating "highway miles". The car only had 28 miles on it when the trip began. I filled the tank, on the highway 60 miles from home and another 200+ miles locally. I think that tank of gas gave me something like 21 or 22 MPG (would have to check records at work). If your daily drive is only 20% local, that will significantly affect your MPG.
That was a month ago, though...
I currently have a 2004 Elantra GT hatchback. The other day while I was at the dealer getting an oil change, I started looking at the new Sonatas and was really impressed. I am thinking about trading up. My Elantra is a five speed and is fairly sporty with nimble handling. I do get good gas mileage around town (26 - 28mpg) but have the wheel shimmy problem and a bit of a smelly air conditioner.
Frankly, I am a bit tired of shifting all the time and would like something I could easily give to my daughter when she starts driving in four years. I especially like all the safety features of the new Sonata from that point of view. I also wouldn't mind something a bit bigger and safer to drive in the meantime.
Part of my current indecision is that my Elantra is worth at least $2000 less than I owe on it. I am thinking about getting an 06 Sonata GLS with the four cylinder. I test drove one and thought it was pretty nice, if very different from the Elantra. I think I could get used to it very quickly.
I know I can get $2000 off the MSRP of $19900 and will probably be able to get at least another $1000 off after shopping around at the four or five Hyundai dealers in the area. I think after factoring TT&L and the amount I am behind on a trade, I would probably be right back at the MSRP.
I read good things about the new Sonata on this board. Do those of you who own one think it is a good deal even at the MSRP? I obviously know first hand about lousy Hyundai resale value, but do we think the new Sonata will be better in this regard? Actually, I usually keep cars for a long time. Should I be concerned about buying a brand new car with lots of new components, including the engine?
Oh, one more question? Does anyone own that deep blue color? I think I like that color but am a bit undecided. I really thought it was black sitting on the dealer's lot.
Thanks for any ideas you can offer on this.
http://www.auto123.com/en/info/news/roadtest,view,Hyundai.spy?artid=45920&pg=1
http://cars.ign.com/articles/641/641527p1.html
Thanks.
I can second that. I have an 04 Sonata LX and an 05 Tucson LX AWD and both got lousy gas mileage until they had around 4-5K miles on them. They both now are near the original EPA estimates, which is fine by me. Given the fallacy that is the EPA mileage estimates, any person that relies on those figures and expects to get them in the real world better think again. Those numbers have always been so unreliable that even the EPA now acknowledges that they need to revise their testing procedures so that the numbers will reflect real-world driving habits.
Here is some info from the EPA website: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/
Laboratory Tests vs. Real-World MPG
Some consumers may notice that their fuel economy estimates differ from EPA's estimates. This is not unusual, since real-world conditions frequently differ from those in laboratory tests, which are strictly controlled so that the results can be used to compare the fuel economy of different vehicles:
No laboratory test can simulate all driving conditions and driving styles. Trip length, traffic conditions, terrain, temperature, and weather all affect fuel economy. In addition, fast acceleration and heavy braking, driving at high speeds, carrying extra weight, using cargo racks, using electrical accessories, and using 4-wheel drive reduce fuel economy.
Vehicle maintenance can affect fuel economy. Test vehicles are typically in optimum condition.
Fuels vary in energy content. Oxygenated and reformulated gasoline contains less energy per volume, and gasoline composition varies seasonally.
Small differences due to vehicle manufacturing and assembling can cause differences in fuel economy.
New vehicles don’t attain maximum fuel economy until they’re “broken in,” usually around 3-5 thousand miles.
Laboratory Tests vs. Real-World MPG
Some consumers may notice that their fuel economy estimates differ from EPA's estimates. This can be caused by any of several factors related to driving conditions and driver behavior, vehicle maintenance, fuel characteristics, and vehicle-related factors:
It is impossible for laboratory tests to simulate all driving conditions and driver behavior
EPA tests are designed to simulate “typical” city and highway driving conditions, but they cannot simulate all possible driving conditions and every person's driving style. The following driver behavior and driving condition factors can affect fuel economy:
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Quick acceleration and heavy braking reduces fuel economy by as much as 33 percent at highway speeds and 5 percent around town. EPA tests do not account for this kind of vigorous driving.
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Driving at higher speeds increases aerodynamic drag (wind resistance) and reduces fuel economy. The EPA test accounts for aerodynamic drag up to highway speeds of 60 mph, but drivers often exceed this speed.
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Cargo or cargo racks on top of your vehicle (e.g., cargo boxes, canoes, etc.) can increase aerodynamic drag and lower fuel economy. Vehicles are not tested with additional cargo on the exterior.
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Excessive idling decreases average mpg. The EPA city test includes idling, but drivers that experience more idling can experience lower MPG.
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Towing a trailer or carrying excessive weight can decrease fuel economy. Vehicles are assumed to carry three hundred pounds of passengers and cargo.
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Running electrical accessories (e.g., air conditioner) decreases fuel economy. Operating the air conditioner on "Max" can reduce MPG by roughly 5 to 25 percent compared to not using it.
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Cold weather and frequent short trips can reduce fuel economy, since your engine doesn't operate efficiently until it is warmed up. In colder weather, it takes longer for your engine to warm, and on short trips, your vehicle operates a smaller percentage of time at the desired temperature.
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Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground.
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Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases crankcase losses.
Vehicle Maintenance
A poorly tuned engine burns more fuel, so fuel economy will suffer if it is not in tune. Improperly aligned or inflated tires can lower fuel economy, as can a dirty air filter or brake drag.
Fuels Vary in Energy Content
A vehicle's fuel economy depends on the energy content of the fuel on which it runs—this has been determined by EPA and others and is consistent with combustion theory. The use of oxygenated fuels or reformulated gasoline (RFG), for example, can cause a small decrease (1-3%) in fuel economy. In addition, the energy content of gasoline varies from season to season. Typical summer conventional gasoline contains about 1.7% more energy than typical winter conventional gasoline.
Inherent Variations in Vehicles
Small variations in the way vehicles are manufactured and assembled can cause MPG variations among vehicles of the same make and model. Usually, differences are small, but a few drivers will see a marked deviation from the EPA estimates.
New Vehicles
New vehicles will not obtain their optimal fuel economy until the engine has broken in. This may take 3-5 thousand miles.
You're all too correct about how most owners ignore their cooling system's needs. Hyundai not much help, only recommending a "quality ethylene glycol antifreeze" suitable for "aluminum engine parts" - not very specific. The recommended changeout is at 2 years/30,000 miles - which suggests to me that Hyundai's still filling their cars with conventional silicated (the older, general purpose "Prestone" type that's no longer available except as private store brand in the U.S.) antifreeze. Last September just a few weeks shy of 2 years on my '03 MY Sonata V6, I decided to go ahead and change it out. The factory-fill coolant drained cloudy - not a good thing, but no scale, either. However, subsequent refills with distilled water, warm-up idling and drains showed no further turbidity or any scale expulsion. In other words, I think I got to it in time. Once there was no fuirther tell-tale leftover green dye marker in my repeated distilled water flushes and drains, I refilled with one of the extende-life, non-silicated antifreezes (Wal-Mart "SuperTech" brand supplied by Prestone) that claims 5-yr./150,000 mile working life. So far, at not quite 1 year, it's remained perfectly tranparent and green. (This is actually an unadvertised DEX-COOL "clone", but without the GM logo and licensing expense added to the selling price.) Unless there're any indications that the cooling system's stressed, or the color or transparency changes, I will change out again at three years from its installation or 50,000 miles just out of my conservatively cautious nature.
As to the notion of Hyundai's moving to a real timing chain replacing the previous kevlar-reinforced belt, keep in mind that most of that $400.00 belt replacement cost is in the form of shop labor charges. Also keep in mind that chains can and do break - often with catastrophic consequences as the broken chain thrashes around unmercifully. Finally consider that the water pumps on these engines are hidden behind a front cover that has to be removed, the timing chain (or belt in applicable designs) has to be removed, all before the water pump can be accessed for inspection or replacement in the event of a bearing seal failure. Silicates used in prior antifreeze products, and subject to falling out of solution as hard precipitates, are notoriously harsh on water pump seals - the reason why GM, Honda, Toyota, and Nissan went exclusively to non-silicated, extended-life antifreeze formulations seven or eight years ago. Ford and Chrysler still use a form of silicated antifreeze (Zerex "G-05", but labled and dyed differently for the two car makers), but with the silicate content seriously reduced. In short, I suspect that 60,000 mile service will still be just about as expensive, but for different reasons. Hindsight being 20/20, I recommend that buyers of these new Hyundai Sonatas, I4 or V6, seriously consider having the factory coolant flushed and replaced with a non-silicated or G-05 antifreeze as initial preventive maintenance - and take with a grain of silicate the notion that any antifreeze formulation should be left in the engine for a full 5 years or 150,000 miles.
While Hyundai recommends ATF drain and replacement at 100,000 miles under "normal" service, the company does recommend that service at 30,000 miles under "severe" conditions. Unless the owner lives in a dust-free area, devoid of hilly terrain, doesn't operate the car in urban stop-'n-go driving, and is blessed with ambient temperatures at or below 85 degrees year 'round, he or she would also be advised to figure on replacing the ATF every 30,000 miles. I know - ain't gonna happen. Probably the principal reason Hyundai dealerships are rife with transaxle shipping cases to return the "cores" to Hyundai's national AT service shop for rebuilding . . .
I have the Dark Cinnamon LX. I got mine for dealer invoice. There were no rebates at that time. I have had mine since the 21st of June.
"DESCRIPTION:
The 2006 Model Year Sonata contains an Auto Door Lock feature to automatically lock all doors at a predetermined speed. This feature can be enabled or disabled and the operating range (locking speed) can be adjusted using the Hi-Scan tool.
NOTE: The Auto Door Lock feature setting is 'disabled' from the factory."
Any Hyundai dealer is equipped to re-program the factory default setting to one of four vehicle speeds at which the power door locks will be activated. However, this procedure is not a warranty service - the owner may be obligated at the whim of the dealer to pay the dealer's minimum shop labor charge to activate a factory supplied feature of the car.
Thanks for the heads-up, denp44! Apparently Hyundai has finally gone to a long-life antifreeze for initial fill. If you have a 2006 Sonata, would you mind looking up in your owner's manual whether Hyundai has any specific antifreeze recommendation and posting back? (The Japanese "big three" each have their own proprietary antifreeze available through their respective dealers - I'm just curious to find out whether Hyundai has embarked on the same path to a high-profit $20.00/gallon OEM coolant, too.) TIA!
I hate to rain on your parade, but you're not going to find a water pump "hidden" behind a front cover on the new Hyundai engines.