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As for my mileage, up to gas tank #3: 18.6mpg, mostly local, with some highway, but always AC on coldest, max a/c, 4. That thing is arctic that way.
George
Yeah, gponick, please re-read my posts for self-clarification - I made mention of two issues: Hyundai transaxles (that was the issue involving seven faulty units awaiting rebuild by Hyundai's own U.S. transmission facility) and my observation that timing chains (an entirely different issue) cannot be generalized as a panacea for timing belts (which do have to be routinely replaced at 60,000 to 105,000 miles [recent Hondas]).
By the way, your fuel milage will definitely improve as the miles pile. When new, my '03 V-6 was just about as abysmal as yours. By ~5,000 miles, though, my city milege had improved to around 19+ mpg and highway to 28 mpg. Now, at 15,000 miles, I average 21+ mpg city and 32+ mpg highway. Like you, I like my car's interior climate somewhere south of the South Pole, so in inland southern California this time of year, it's on constantly when I'm driving anywhere.
Among the bunch of guys who were invited for a test drive by Hyundai
in China, one got his vehicle involved in an accident and the rear end of the Sonata
hit repeatedly barrier. The cabin remained in good shape after all these
and the driver walked away unharmed. The car is totalled.
Seems new Sonata has addressed safety the right way.
pictures can be found here:
http://auto.sina.com.cn/news/2005-08-15/1301134117.shtml
more pictures:
http://www.autohome.com.cn/accident/200508/9630.html
It happened when the car running at roughly 100mph, as a hurricane brought a huge storm over test track.
you can use google to translate the page to English.
Several years ago (maybe 10 or 12) I read a SAE technical journal's review of various formulations of anti-freeze/coolant, especially for use in all aluminum engines. The brand which won the test was Mercedes-Benz coolant. I know it's highly recommended by some of the best independent techs which work on some of the Euopean marques. Most likely, the formulation is produced by an OEM for M-B, but it is avaialable at all M-B parts departments. M-B coolant is phosphate free and pH buffered with inhibitors to aid in the prevention of electrolysis. Here is an informative link to more info on this coolant. You will have to read down a few paragraphs: M-B Coolant Info
I began using this coolant soon after reading the journal's review, and recently I had an opportunity to remove the head from one vehicle using this coolant for 8 years. No sign of oxide or corrosion existed anywhere in the cooling galleys in the head. The coolant was changed every 30K.
I got the Dark Cinnamon.
Could be either or a mix of both. (I couldn't get close enough to view the shipping labels for contents identification.) Previous Sonatas used two versions of the 4-sp (dependent on whether equipped with 4 or 6 cyl engines) and the XG-350s use a 5-sp. The new Sonata uses an all-new 5-sp for the 6 cyl. Dunno whether the 4-sp for the 2006 4 cyl Sonata is a carry-over or an all new design, too. At this early stage of its life, I strongly doubt that ANY of the shipping cases in view contained wasted transaxles out of 2006 Sonatas.
tennis4me-come back and post your gas mileage results or just how you seem to be liking your new Sonata periodically, OK? Oh, and just by reading this entire thread back from post #1 you will learn a volume of information on your new Hyundai Sonata, too. Enjoy!
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
Right you are, w9cw! The Mercedes Benz antifreeze/coolant was originally formulated by BASF in Germany (who now licenses its manufacture worldwide) and has been factory issue in M-B automobiles for over two decades. Several other European marques also use their "own" versions of the stuff. In the U.S., Zerex (Ashland Oil - the Valvoline folks) are licensed to produce it. It's sold at retail as "Zerex G-05" and carries a very light amber dye marker. Zerex division also supplies it to Ford (pee-yellow) and Chrysler (orange - and NOT to be confused with or substituted for orange GM DEX-RON!). I don't have any idea what Mercedes dealers charge for their syrup, or even what color it's dyed, but Pep Boys sells Zerex G-05 concentrate for about $10.00/gallon.
An interesting take on phosphate in antifreeze/coolant formulations: European automakers universally reject inclusion of phosphates due in large part to Europe's generally "hard" water. They fear loading more mineral content into already mineral-rich water might be sufficient to cause precipitation of hard mineral crystals that will destroy bearing seals in the water pump. 12,000 miles farther south-east, in the Land of The Rising Sun, the Japanese "Big Three" specify a stiff dose of phosphates because of its affinity for aluminum. Phosphate provides very quick corrosion protection for aluminum. The Mercedes and the Japanese "Big Three" branded antifreezes use "OAT" (organic acid technology - generally hydrated sodium benzoate) as their main corrosion inhibitor, but it can take up to 3,000 miles of driving before a layer of benzoate establishes itself to the internal aluminum pieces. The Mercedes antifreeze (and by extension, the Chrysler, Ford, and Zerex G-05 which is identical except perhaps dye marker color - dunno what color M-B antifreeze/coolant is) uses stabilized reduced silicate content to establish quick corrosion protection. The inclusion of either silicates or phosphates as co-corrosion protection identifies the "G-05"-type and the Japanese syrups as "HOAT" products - hybrid organic acid technology. GM (in North America at least) fills most (The Aztec gets what amounts to Toyota long life antifreeze since it's produced in Fremont, California at a Toyota plant.) of its automotive products with DEX-COOL. This is also an OAT formulation (sodium 2-ethyl hexanoate in GM DEX-COOL's case) but without either phosphate or silicates, so, NO hybridization.
Unless Hyundai's changed their break-in advice, the company's rather conservative (some suggest too conservative*) - suggesting keeping the vehicle speed no higher than 55 mph for the first 1,200 miles (vs. most manufactirers' advice of 600 miles), no jackrabit starts, and no hard braking (for the first 200 miles). ALL manufacturers suggest varying engine speed during run-in to aid seating the piston rings to the cylinder bore surfaces. This means (ONLY when safe to do so) removing your foot from the accelerator to slow down to roughly 40 mph and then accelerating (without forcing a kickdown to a lower gear) back up to 55 mph. Doing this will negatively (during deceleration) and positively (during acceleration) alternately "load" the rings by manifold vacuum and cylinder compression to accelerate ring seating without undue wear on other internal engine components. Nine or ten cycles of this will establish ring seat. Alternatively, a romp at moderate speeds (40 to 50 mph dependent on traffic flow) through light hilly terrain on cruise control will achieve the same thing since the cruise control will alter engine load according to whether you're climbing or descending. A half hour of that will pretty much seat the rings, too.
*My 2003 Sonata V6 was set up fairly "tight" from the factory. I suspect Hyundai's run-in advice is right on the mark for maximum engine longevity. If you don't heed Hyundai's advice, will your engine fall out of the car? No. But your new car's engine could be subject to somewhat higher oil consumption and/or higher engine bearing wear rates as it ages. If you really want to give your new engine a treat, change the oil and oil filter at about 500-600 miles. (subsequent oil and filter changes at the indicated time or odometer readings per your owner's manual) You'll be dumping any remaining factory leftovers that eluded the rinses during production as well as the inevitable run-in wear metal contaminants that are produced in the first few hundred miles of operation. (This is just my personal recommendation - not Hyundai's.)
Nope, the oil pumps are not behind the front cover either.
BTW your car does have a water pump inside the timing belt cover.
You really don't have to do that as the engines are cold/hot tested and drained of fluids before being shipped to the assembly line.
My plan was to wait on purchasing the new Sonata until XM was factory installed, but a minor accident was enough to total my '97 Camry, so I purchased my new Sonata in May. I moved the Roady 2 from the Camry to the Sonata.
Initally I installed the antenna on the trunk lid and ran the cable through the rubber cable protector where the tail light cables are. This was not easy, and required cutting and splicing the cable. The splice did not go well, and I bought a new antenna.
This time, I installed the antenna inside on the rear deck, next to the center tail light. I get a few more dropouts doing this (than what I remember with the roof mounted Camry install), but it is acceptable.
The Roady 2 display/control unit is on the center console shelf just in front of the gear shift. I am using the built-in FM modulator and tune the radio to the appropriate frequency.
BTW your car does have a water pump inside the timing belt cover."
You really get off on arguing, don't you? Since the oil pump mounting bolts are accessible only once the oil pan is removed, the pumps are definitely behind the front cover - both 2.7L and 3.3L. (even inside the block casting's front if you want to get technical - which apparently you do, codata99) As you correctly pointed out, the water pump on my engine requires removal of the front (timing belt) cover. The water pump on the new 3.3L engine is directly accessible for removal once the serpentine accessory belt and water pump pulley are removed. Happy now?
"You really don't have to do that as the engines are cold/hot tested and drained of fluids before being shipped to the assembly line."
And your source for that is? Regardless, cold/hot testing (presuming Hyundai conducts it) means the engines passed leakage tests at the time of the procedure, and says nothing about the absence of pre-assembly contaminants. I was referring to the flushes the various cast pieces go through after machining but before actual assembly. I don't know about the new 3.3L V-6's block, but mine was cast by the "sand-cast" process, vs. Honda's die-cast technique. Sand is silica. Silica is very abrasive. Most sub-20 micron solid contaminants floating around in the engine oil are too small to be caught by the filter, but large enough to abrade wear surfaces. The only reliable way to flush the crud into the sump so it can be drained at the first oil change is extended operation over several undred miles. There are too many nooks and crannies in the oil passages for a quick cold/hot leak test to thoroughly remove all unwanted particles. (Yeah, that gets the bigger ones, but the bigger ones are the least likely to cause damage because, A> - they get trapped by the oil filter, and, B> - they're too large to pass into the bearing clearances. I stand by my original advice - I make it a point to get the factory fill oil out early because factory leftover grit and metal run-in debris contamination makes doing so the engine's most important oil change as far as I'm concerned. $20.00 dollars for an oil change isn't only less than the price of half a tank of gasoline, it's downright cheap long-term abnormal wear insurance.
Again, the oil pump on the 3.3L is not behind the front cover; hence the removal of the cover is not required to get access to it.
It's bolted to the BOTTOM of the ladder frame. Don't look for it in the front inside of the block casting.
Ask me what the displacement of the '06 Sonata base engine is.
"And your source for that is?"
Plant manager of the Alabama factory.
"I don't know about the new 3.3L V-6's block, but mine was cast by the "sand-cast" process, vs. Honda's die-cast technique."
The engine block in your car is made of LPDC(Low Pressure Die Casting) aluminum alloy.
High-pressure die-casting is used for the Lambda engine block. Better than Honda's gravity cast.
(Honda hasn't had a rash of cracked or broken blocks, by the way, so please explain to all of us how their alleged casting method is inferior. Is your Alabama mystery plant manager also some sort of metalurgical expert on Honda engine block casting techniques, too, Cartoon Man?)
This is from the SAE Technical Paper No. 981091:
"The cylinder block is made of LPDC(Low Pressure Die Casting) aluminum alloy with a closed deck construction, and the steel liner is pressed by tightly fitting into the cylinder block at room temperature."
We really can't argue with the engineers, can we?
http://www.sae.org/servlets/productDetail?PROD_TYP=PAPER&PROD_CD=981091
"Your "plant manager" source would not have personal experience with the 2.7L V-6 engine unless he owns one. The Birmingham, Alabama assembly factory never assembled this model engine. "
rhaeffele, ALL Hyundai engines, regardless of where they are made, are cold/hot bench tested and drained of fluids before being shipped to the assembly line. The Sonata factory is located in Montgomery.
"The oil pumps on the 2.7L and 3.3L V6 engines are attached with bolts mounted from within the engine block and accessed once the oil pan is dropped. That physically puts the pumps, proper, on the interior side of the engine front and by extension, obviosuly behind the engine front covers."
The 2.7L Delta engine does have the oil pump in the front of the block, behind the front cover. I'm not disputing that.
This engine is NOT used in the new Sonata.
The 3.3L Lambda is a totally new design. I explained to you where the oil pump is located. It's a separate module type bolted to the ladder frame, OK?
"(Wherever did you get the idea that a component mounted behind the engine block front and attached from inside would require removal of the engine front cover(s)? I already admitted my initial error.)"
HUH? On YOUR car, you do need to remove the front covers in order to get to the oil pump.
Removal of the front cover is not necessary on the new engine Lambda.
"Honda hasn't had a rash of cracked or broken blocks, by the way, so please explain to all of us how their alleged casting method is inferior."
HPDC is better than the gravity-casting in the sense that it produces stronger, denser(no porosity) and lighter block.
Yep, you're right, after all. The oil pump removal instructions on page "EMA -57" presume the front cover's already been removed.
You can sign up for a password, and then you get access to all the technical stuff about the car (diagrams, etc.) Surely your answer lies within.
http://autoweb.drive.com.au/cms/A_2633/article.html
On page 2 of the 3 page document, it shows three USER OPTIONS that can be 'turned on' using the Hi-Scan tool. These are:
AUTO DOOR LOCK STATUS
ARM/DISARM BY KEY
HORN ANSWER BACK
I know what the first is (setting the doors to auto-lock once a certain speed is reached.) What are the latter two? And why aren't they turned on from production? (It appears to be a non-warranty service. If I figure what these things are [and determine they are useful], I will make purchase of the car contingent upon these items being turned ON.)
Finally, does one know if one can turn 'ON' Daytime Running Lights? Would it be easily enough done?
I've included info from www.hmaservice.com below, searching terms 'horn answer back' and 'daytime running lights'.
* * * ** * * FROM HMASERVICE.COM searching 'horn answer back' * * * * * *
ANTI-THEFT FUNCTION
Arm functionPressing the remote key lock button will result in a 0.5-second pulse issued to lock all doors.Pressing the remote keypad unlock button once will result in a 0.5-second unlock pulse issued to unlock all doors.As part of the arming sequence the alarm first enters a pre-armed state before falling into the armed state. During this pre-armed state alarm triggers are ignored. Pre-armed state can be reached from the alarmed state, the start inhibit state or the disarmed state. Pre-Arming of the alarm can be achievedby a press of the lock button on the remote key.In the pre-armed state the visible and audible warnings are disabled.This system enters the armed state if it is in the pre-armed state and, after 0.6 sec, check actuator lock and each door, hood and tail gate close,and no door warning switch (no key in ignition).On entering the arm state, a single flash of the hazard lamps is given, period of cycle 2 second, duty rate 50%.If TX lock signal is received when a door, tail gate or hood is open, then lock output is given and a flash of hazard is not given.After the armed state is entered, if a lock signal is received then a single flash of the hazard lamps is given, period of cycle 2 second, dutyrate 50%.The armed state cannot be reached by locking the car with the keys.
Time specificationT1 : 0.5sec.T2 : Max 2sec.T3 : 1.0±0.2sec.
Disarm functionDisarming can be performed while the alarm is armed, or alarming, or after alarming. The alarm can be disarmed by the following methods:
Pressing the unlock button on the TX key. The hazard lamps shall be flashed twice for 1sec period (of cycle), 50% duty rate.
If door warning switch is on, IGN1 and IGN2 are on in arm state, then arm state should be immediately cancelled. This means that the driveris inside the vehicle before pushing TX lock, so system should not arm.
In the disarm state the visible and audible warnings are disabled and start is enabled.In the disarm state, if TX key unlock command is received, then the hazard lamps shall be flashed twice for period of cycle 1 sec, 50% duty rate.Disarm state cannot be reached using the door locks by key.
Time specificationT1, T2 : 0.5±0.1sec.
Alarm functionOnce armed, should any door, hood or the tailgate be opened, then:
Start relay drive output is disabled, so starting is inhibited.
Audible (horn) and visual (hazard lamp) warnings are issued, for three cycles, each cycle 27±1 sec. duration on, 10±1 sec. off. The horn warning is continuously occurring during the on period. The hazardlamps operate with 1 sec period, 50 % duty rate during the on period.
The alarm is given in the case where a door is opened with a key.After this time, the system maintains the start inhibit state, where no audible and visual warnings are issued but engine starting is not possible.
Time specificationT1 : 27±2 sec.T2 : 10±1 sec.T3 : 0.5±0.1 sec.
Operation during alarm conditions
Cancelling audible alarm with the remote transmitter CASE 1 : Door closedDuring or after alarming and then closing all doors and a TX lock signal is received Then
The lock command is executed with 0.5 sec. ON
Horn and start inhibition are OFF
Hazard lamp is flashed one time (period : 2 sec., duty: 50%, within 2 sec.)
The state goes to arming mode (after a lock state check)
The start is enabled
Time specificationT1 : 0.5 sec.T2 : 1.0±0.2 sec.CASE 2 : Door OpenDuring or after alarming, with a door open and a TX lock signal is received Then
The lock command is executed with 0.5 sec. ON
Horn is disabled and start is enabled after confirmation of actuator lock
At this time, when the door is closed,
Hazard lamp is flashed one time (period : 2 sec., duty 50%)
The state goes to arming mode
Time specificationT1 : 0.5 sec.T2 : 1.0±0.2 sec.
New alarm conditions Second alarm condition during alarming.When another alarm occurs during alarming, the starting is disabled, and the alarm continues to sound for the remained time of warning signal. The alarm continues to sound after the second alarm condition is removed.New alarm condition occurs after alarming (with all entrances closed)If any entrance is opened again then
The horn is ON 3 times (EC area : one time for 27sec.)
Start is disabled
Hazard lamps flash during the ON time of horn
New alarm condition occur after alarming (with any entrance open).If another entrance is opened, the BCM keeps start disabled and there is no horn output.
Key operation during alarm After the alarm state or start inhibit state are entered, if door warning switch on (key in ignition) ANDamp;amp;amp;amp; IGN 2 ON, if IGN 2 state is changed to OFFwithin 30sec, remain in alarm state.
Disarming using the key During alarming, in case that door warning switch (key in) is ON and then IGN1 and IGN2 are both ON for 30 sec continuously, the alarm is cancelled,and the system enters the disarm state.After alarming, in case that door warning switch (key in) is ON and then IGN1 and IGN2 are both ON for 30 sec continuously, the alarm is cancelled,and the system enters the disarm state.
Alarm state in power downIf the battery is disconnected to the BCM in the following states:
Alarm
After alarming
Upon restoring the battery, the alarm state shall be entered and the alarm cycle shall restarted (timer reset to 0).If the battery is disconnected in arm state, upon restoring the battery, arm state is resumed.
Automatic relockingIf either:
Car is unlocked but all doors closed, or
Car is closed and locked by keys, or
Car is closed, locked and in armed state.
Then if an unlock command sent from the TX key is received by the BCM, and within 30 seconds no door, hood or tail gate has been opened or TX lock received, then the BCM will instigate a lock doors function and enter arm state. A single flash of the hazard lamps is given, period of cycle 2 second,duty rate 50%.If another unlock command is sent within this time then rese
Horn answer back probably means you'll hear the customary horn toot when activating or deactivating the alarm system. My '05 doesn't have the audio feature & frankly I don't think cars need it. One can usually hear the locks "click" and there is the flashing light feature. In many locations it is inappropriate for a horn to sound just to let everyone know the car is being locked. That horn feature is probably a throw back to when the remote systems were new and the horn sound called attention to people saying "look at the new gizmo I've got on my car." The horn/audio signal serves no useful purpose. It just calls attention (often unwanted) to the person locking their car & setting the alarm.
Anyways, very excited to have witnessed my first Sonata on the road
I have been doing a lot of thinking lately about what mid-sized sedan I would buy today, as I may be faced with that choice in the near future. The Sonata GLS I4 is at the top of my list right now, although I would like to take a good look at the revised '06 Accord LX. The Legacy was also intriguing (especially living in Minnesnowta) but costs more than the Sonata and Accord and has considerably less interior and trunk space than the other cars, especially the Sonata. And the new Optima would be worth a long look too, depending on when it is available.
By the way, Backy, I have been enjoying your posts and wish you the best of luck in choosing your new mid-sized sedan ~
This car has been very hard to locate in So.Cal. I've been hunting for 3mos. I've seen none on the freeways. I paid below MSRP plus the $1000 rebate. I wanted to hurry up and get out of there before they realized they could get more for this great car. They had only 3 LX's still in the plastic rap from the factory. Only one bright silver just like the commercial. My brother & i test drove it back in May. Since then we've been waiting for dealers to stock them: the model & color. (So i jumped at it on monday.) I'm so pleased w/ the purchase the whole bit. The sales service everything. My review hasn't been posted yet... but i would like to state again.. this car is the best kept secret in the business. I’ve owned Chevys, Fords, Hondas, an '87 Integra - great car. My mother had a Camry for 18yrs. (Recently I drove a Kia Amanti and was totally impressed.) Months ago I almost paid $24K for a fully loaded Mazda3 -also a great buy- ...but i was immediately sold on the Sonata within minutes of touching it & driving it. Anyone who knows an excellent machine when they hold it in their hands will love this Sonata. ..And the PRICE! no regrets.