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Comments
I agree with changing two at a time if you don't change all four. This means putting both the new ones in the front or both new ones in the back. I'm not a tire guy, but imagine they should go in front since those wear fastest.
My experience with changing only one: I hit a curb with a sidewall on our Avalon. My excuse is that I don't drive it much and the turning radius is different from my regular car, it which I almost never hit a curb
VSC is once again unavailable in 4 cylinder Camrys in the California area.
Option B is now a different set of options on the XLE 4 cylinder and there is no other option package available that includes VSC.
Details for Option B - $1,249
- Leather-trimmed seats and door trim with integrated armrests and dual front and rear map pockets [19] (LA)
- California emissions (CA)
- Carpet/Trunk Mat Set (CF)
Leather seats without the seat heaters? Who wants that?
Ill do it again from my wifes MACbook, that might work better. I would like to get in on that discussion.
E
Thanks Pat...
E
What are the key things lacking in the SE that make the LE more popular?
Personally, I wanna get the V6 but reliability ratings scare me. Is it really that big of a deal if I go for a 2008 model, or would a 4 cyl be a safer bet. Please 'enlighten'
SE does not come with stability control standard. Maybe the dealers in your region happen to have SEs with an option package including stability control on their lots.
At least thasts in my Camry.
I think u need to test drive them back to back...
I wish my LE had stability. My fault for not waiting.
The engine in the V-6 is AMAZING BUT be aware that its not really fully usuable, unless you want the police around u all the time. the 4cyl probably has enough get up and go around town etc but the 6 is super powerful. GUn it and it just has amazing power. But again its a front wheel drive and without stability-traction control {which are 2 diff. things} the car {again MY experience} hops instead of wheel spin. Even facing a slight uphill where wheel spin is easy the front end hops like a Southern California Hip Hop car with hydraulics.
My advice is to look around and look some more then when u narrow down 2-3 final choices, look some more.
The Camry isnt bad its just not Toyota typical anymore
The V6 mileage is very good for such a powerful engine, much better than our 3 year old Avalon with a less powerful engine. On the highway at 75, I get about 30mpg. At a little under 70 when the cops are around, it gets 33. In the city, it's 22-3.
One of the replies alluded to hopping on jackrabbit starts. I have stability control and haven't experienced it. The V6 isn't really made for that; it's really good on the highway. Makes it very easy to get up to speed on entering and easy passing. You should get the stability control anyway; it's a good safety feature.
It really depends on what you want the car for. I've been doing a lot of long highway drives and the Camry is wonderful for that. Quieter and smoother than the Honda. A little floatier, but a lot less fatiguing. If you're going to use it mostly in the city, the new Accord might be a good choice, since the handling and braking are nimbler, although it's a bit noiser and bumpier.
Do you know if the temp. spare in the well can be replaced with a full size one? I intend to use this car a lot on the highways and it seems like V6 would be the way to go.
Have to say I don't know. Only looked to see make sure everything was there, but didn't look to see how big the space is, although I don't know if I could judge it well. You might have to search on that one.
A major deciding factor against the 2008 Accord was the very low and unadjustable passenger seat. My wife has an iffy back and she just couldn't deal with it. The Camry's passenger seat doesn't adjust up and down either, but it's set 11-12 inches off the floor and works ok for her. We both thought the Camry was quieter, but the Accord was pretty competitive and a bit cheaper - at list price anyway.
As you know from my previous postings, I own a 2007 V6 XLE Camry. I will be taking this vehicle in for service on December 3rd for the 20,000 mile service, and the vehicle will be one year old in January. ------ Yes, I drive alot! ------ Since purchasing this vehicle, I have been reading these boards dealing with the transmission issue and other problems associated with this vehicle. ------ I have not observed the problems, (that have been described in the "postings"), on my vehicle.--------- Could I be the "lucky person" who received the only "good Toyota"? I will keep my Camry for three years. At that time I will have about 75,000 + miles. Based on my current satisfaction, I will look at another Camry. If I do not purchase another Camry, it will not be because of the "postings on this site," but rather, it will be a comfort issue related to the ride and / or seating.
I would think that with all the complaining about the product, this board would see more postings! ------- QUESTIONS: ---- What was the total production run for Toyota Camry in the United States? ---- Out of that figure, how many Toyota Camry vehicles have or had the transmission problem? ---- What is different between the vehicles with the problem and those without the problem? ----- Is this a real production / operating / mechanical / electronic problem, or is it an "individual driving style" that creates this operational issue, because of the interaction of the driver with the vehicle? ------- I would imagine, that a driver who is very aggressive, would have issues with a drive by wire vehicle, because there is a "delay" in the throttle response. But, that is a "driver issue" not a vehicle issue! --------- Maybe a "driver re-education program" is needed!
Why are people so silent about their intentions to keep or sell their Camry? ---------- I am beginning to believe that "IF" the problem does exist, it is only in a very small percentage of vehicles, or it is a self-induced problem, based on the "driving style" of the individual operator. Remember this is a drive by wire vehicle, not a cable operated throttle! I noticed the difference a week after I took delivery, when I was caught in a snow storm. Working the throttle in "deep snow" is a different process with a "drive by wire vehicle," as opposed to a "cable controlled throttle," because of the slight delay in throttle response!
Best Regards! --------- Dwayne :shades:
I think it's a well established maxim that unhappy consumers are more likely to vent about their unhappiness on the internet or elsewhere than are happy consumers. I would venture a guess that only a fraction of 1 percent of Camry owners know about the Edmunds board.
No conclusions about the Camry can be drawn based on the relatively high percentage of unhappy Camry owners who post here. Even the best product will have some unhappy owners.
Fyi, 346,000 Camrys were built in Kentucky through October per the Toyota Pressroom site. I'll bet 345,000 of the owners are happy and the rest have posted in this forum.
You are making the extreme unlike assumption that all people complaining are currently posting their complaints on this forum and are the only ones who have a problem car. And you assume the happy people are too busy to post here.
I treat the posting as more a sampling of the balance of those who realize they have a problem in a car and those who don't realize a problem is there or don't care and post because they want everyone to know they made a good choice in their car purchase and are, of course, happy with their perfect car.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
"...that is a driver issue, not a vehicle issue...."
Baring other issues, considerations, I would have my software team fix any complaints of this type INSTANTLY, not allow the complaints to be ongoing for what, 2003 til...??
No, there is an underlying reason Toyota and Lexus have programmed a delay into the DBW system under certain circumstances, circumstances very adequately described, apparently, in the '93 Camry TSB.
I just had the 20,000 mile service performed on the Camry. Since I do an extensive amount of driving on the highway, in addition to the oil and filter change, I had them check the brakes, flush the hydraulic brake system, rotate the tires and check the four wheel alignment. (The Camry will be one year old in January).
The vehicle is still a pleasure to drive. There are no issues with the automatic transmission. Now that the cold weather has arrived, I make it a point to warm-up the vehicle, while I remove the snow and ice from the windshield. The one thing that I do not like about the vehicle is the recessed windshield wipers. The ice and snow gets caught in the wipers, and under the hood! This can be a problem to remove. (Some warm water helps the process. Do not use HOT water!!!!! )
At the next service in Feb., I will have the automatic trans fluid changed. (Just some quality preventive maintenance). This should be done every 20,000 miles or once a year which every comes first, (especially if the vehicle sees "stop and go driving" on a regular basis.)
A CHRISTMAS GREETING:
Wishing you a beautiful Holiday Season and a New Year of Peace and Happiness. ------------ MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A VERY HAPPY, HEALTHY & SUCCESSFUL NEW YEAR!
Best regards -------- Dwayne :shades:
Kindly be advised that the dealer recommends that the automatic transmission fluid be changed every 30,000 miles. Since I put on the mileage very quickly, it is just easier for me to do this service on or about the delivery date of the vehicle every year. As we all know from the postings on these boards, the transmission on the Camry is NOT its strong point! ---------- I will be doing alot of driving between now and Feb., so at the time of the trans service, I will have about 25,000 miles on the vehicle. I need to do the service when I have the free time. Next year at this time, the vehicle will probably have between 40,000 and 45,000 miles. I don't drink or smoke, so I guess that I spend my money on extreme vehicle maintenance. (My body appreciates my decision about drinking and smoking, and my vehicle operates like the day I drove it out of the showroom.) It is a "win / win" situation!!!!!!! --------------- Best regards and Merry Christmas ------------- Dwayne :shades:
Is anyone using a fuel additive for winter driving? A friend of mine is using a product called "Lucas Fuel Treatment"! ---- He uses 3 ounces for every 10 gallons of fuel. He claims that this product keeps the fuel system clean, and it lubricates the fuel system components.
Best regards & Happy Holidays. ----- Dwayne :shades:
Snake oil...
I tend to buy exclusively from a large marketer and periodically I switch up the brand as one formulation of fuel system additive is probably not good, but rather better to switch.
I do recommend a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every 45K or so.
Let me add this about your desire to change your engine oil often than everyone else thinks is necessary... I agree with them.
I have a Honda Accord and Honda Odyssey. I change the oil in both. I run a bit of extra oil into the pan when changing mine to remove additional old oil on each change after I've let the old stuff pour out.
Even going 5-7K between changes, I can tell my oil is still in pretty good shape. I use the weight of oil recommended and a decent brand oil, and I use a good filter. I am fairly certain for both vehicles, changing on a 3K interval would be much much too often.
For me, a transmission fluid change at 30-45K is also a wise periodic maintenance item to extend the longevity of the vehicle.
YMMV.
I toss in a can in Techron fuel system cleanrer or injector cleaner maybe twice a year just in case something from those off brand stations I rarely use any more left some undesirable contaminant behind. Also the Techron takes care of sulphur effects on the fuel pumps (it says on the bottle).
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I just got back from a road trip to Gettysburg Pa. My vehicle has just about 24,000 miles and I just made an appointment for the 25,000 mile service. The vehicle averaged 30 mpg on the highway traveling at 55 to 65 mph. The transmission shifts properly and the engine is very responsive.
At this service interval, I will have the engine oil and filter changed and the tires rotated. I rotate the tires every 5,000 miles. I spent two days in Gettysburg, and I made it a point to check the engine oil level prior to starting out each day. The oil level was at the "full mark" and it was clean. I have never had to add oil to this engine, (between oil changes), since I purchased this vehicle new!
I recognized that there are Camrys out there with problems, but my vehicle seems to be operating properly at the present point in time. Based on my experience with this vehicle and the selling dealer, I would purchase another Camry in the future. Both the ride and the performance of this vehicle is great.
Best regards. -------------Dwayne :shades:
On a cold day 100F airflow at the exit from the footwell outflow ducts might be perfectly normal,
There is an inside, cabin, air temperature sensor mounted somewhere near the from seat passengers, in a Toyota or Lexus most often behind a small "window" above the driver's right knee.
If your temperature setpoint is, say 72F, and the cabin has not yet warmed to that level the system airflow, OUTFLOW, will almost always be above your setpoint. The farther the cabin air temperature is away from your setpoint the greater the difference will be but not usually to the point of actual discomfort.
The other thing important is the OAT, Outside Air Temperature. Only the manufacturer really know the OVERALL heat transfer coefficient of the vehicle and it may well take 100F airflow from the footwell outlets to keep the interior at 72F if it is cold outside, REALLY cold outside.
And there is an aspect of the human comfort equation, a HUGE aspect, that NO modern day system that I know of takes into account.
Loss of body heat via radiant "cooling", in reality the lack, sometimes COMPLETE lack, of incoming radiant heating from the surrounding landscape.
When I get into my '01 RX300 on a cold day, sub-40F, I use the following procedure.
1. A/C OFF (***1), FRESH inlet airflow mode and seat heating on HIGH.
2. HVAC system on automatic but with setpoint at max heat.
3. When the blower starts up (delayed until the engine coolant reaches ~130F) then I immediately over ride the outlet airflow mode to footwell and windshield (***2) mode.
4. I then lower the blower speed to something not quite as intrusive, noise wise, as it would be were it left in automatic.
5. As the cabin warms and my comfort level rises I continuously lower the temperature setpoint until it is somewhat above what I would normally consider (at home) my personal comfort level, 75F vs 72F.
My final temperature setpoint, as well it should be, is very much a function of BOTH the radiant effects of the surrounding landscape AND cabin air temperature.
Left to its own "resources" the system would automatically switch into "cooling" mode, either combined footwell and dash outlet airflow or if the cabin air temperature is/becomes close enough to your setpoint it will switch into dash outlet airflow ONLY. Brrrrr....
Forcing the use of combined footwell and windshield air outflow has a few non-obvious advantages. Depending on outside temperature and roadspeed the interior surface of the windshield might be cooled, CHILLED even, to the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere wherein condensation would begin to form, sometimes so quickly that safety is compromised.
Using the combined mode the interior windshield surface will be kept warmed and the resultant airflow reflected toward the front seat passengers will be only somewhat cooled and therefore not as discomforting as would be the more COOL airflow that would otherwise result from the system entering "cooling" mode automatically.
***1 As of '01 the RX300 has a C-BEST option wherein the A/C can be disabled indefinitely simply by switch it off once. Prior to that I always disconnected the A/C compressor clutch circuit during the winter months.
***2 When the system enters either partial or full windshield defrost/defog/demist mode the A/C almost always made operational, oftentimes with no indication of same to teh driver. Here again in '01 the RX300 had a C-BEST option that will UNLINK the A/C from operating automatically.
Since '01 Toyota/lexus have added at least one more C-BEST option of importance here. The system can be set so it will not automatically switch from heating mode to cooling mode as the cabin air temperature rises closer and closer, close enough to your temperature setpoint.
Again, there are non-obvious advantages to this new C-BEST feature. In footwell mode a portion of the system airflow is ALWAYS diverted to the interior surface of the windshield to help keep it warmed above dewpoint. Once the system automatically switches into partial or full cooling mode there is no method provided for keeping the windshield interior surface warmed above dewpoint.
So for safety's sake ALWAYS leave the system in footwell mode when the OAT is below ~45F or if the radiant effects of the surrounding landscape are at a body "cooling" level.
More recent Toyota/Lexus product have yet another feature in this regard. These newer systems will automatically switch (back..) into heating mode wherein teh interior surface of the windshield will be continuously warmed if the OAT declines below ~35F.
1.) Start the car with parking brake on.
2.) all within 30 seconds, depress and release the brake pedal twice.
3.) immediately, de-activate and re-engage the parking brake twice.
4.) the VSC/trac light on the dash will light, the VSC/trac is now deactivated until you restart the car.
this not work in my car 2007 camry v6
If I buys 16" alloys from Toyota, can I re use the TPS sensors?
Thanks for the info.
I have this situation when I brake that it seems like a drum out of round. Nobody can figure it out, and it does not 'seem" to do it all the time. Will try it without the VSC engaged and see what happens.
(replying to post #2840)
Can you disengage the ABS?
I once bought cheap aftermarket drums and they were out of round by .030" I could feel that. It only takes a few thousandths of rotor thickness variation to feel it in the pedal.
According to the manual, you set the odometer on Trip A, make sure the ignition is set to ON, and depress the Trip A reset until the message indicates its reset(about 5 seconds). Now I have the push button ignition which may complicate things a little but still, following the manual direction it will not reset. :mad:
Any suggestions or pointers.
Begin with the odometer in the normal mode (total accumulated miles, not trip A or trip B mode). Turn the car off, press the trip/odometer "stick" and keep pressing it while turning the ignition key (push button in your case) back to the on position (you don't need to start the engine).
As you continue to press the stick in, the odometer will count down from 5 or 6 dashes to blank, and then the actual mileage will show again. At that point, release the stick and the light should go out.