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All Things Porsche

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Comments

  • bbailey70bbailey70 Member Posts: 2
    I am looking at a '90 Cab C2. The dealer says the top doesn't work, but he will have it fixed, and recommends "converting " it to manual the next time it has trouble. I assume the electric motors and associated cables,etc. are hard to reach / repair / maintain? Is this correct? Otherwise, the vehicle looks and runs great.

    How much does that hinder the otherwise top condition vehicle. This would be my first Porsche. I've owned several (more than 5) BMW's since '88 andd am no longer charmed. Considered an M3 convertible, but concluded nothing will compare to my old '65 AC Cobra I drove when a bachelor in the 60's. I crave that performance again now that the kids are grown (finally) and I'm recently single again, and feel that a Porsche is my best hope.

    The vehicle is listed at around $10K below Edmunds' "value" for its mileage in my zip code. I plan to take it to a Porsche dealer to have it checked out. What should that cost me?

    Thanks for the guidance.
  • bbailey70bbailey70 Member Posts: 2
    I just found this forum, and see that my previous post has been moved here. :surprise:
    Where can I get a "quick study" on the recommendation to stay away from the '90-'92 C2s. I have been looking at one, and I like it. Sounds like I should keep walking, and find a '93-'97, right? Just would like to know 'why'.
    Also, what's the 411 on tiptronic? Is it ok on later models, or too expensive to maintain? :confuse:
    Thanks.

    just so you know, I'm on the East Coast, so the time here is 7:29am (I'm not THAT anal!) :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Couple of serious items on the C2s, some of which may have been dealt with by this time, some maybe not.

    Clutch -- it's a dual mass flywheel and if the clutch doesn't feel very light and very smooth, you could be in for a major gut-busting repair of maybe $3,000 or so, maybe more.

    Engine--if the car was built before June 1991 (look on left door jamb), it may develop oil leaks at the cylinder heads, requiring disassembly of the engine -- that should cost a measly $10,000 or more.

    Sooooo, if it's a low miles car, it may not have had these modifications done.

    Other stuff that's chronic is rather minor, like rear tail light lenses cracking regularly, and defective fuel tank sending units.

    Yeah, you'd better have it checked out. That would cost about $150. You don't want a "manual" top on a car like this. That's mickey-mouse IMO.

    What's the mileage on this car?
  • maiomymaiomy Member Posts: 1
    hi all, i hope somebody can help me with this... i am about to buy a used 2007 911s cab. the paint on the word "carerra s" on the back of the car is painted in red, just like the car. i've researched many cars sold and the words are in silver. does this mean the car has been repainted or the back of the car has been worked on? please help before i buy!
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,549
    I think the painted lettering is an optional extra for those who want to customize their car a bit. When I was researching Boxsters I saw that option as well as others that included special paint on the brake calipers and/or wheels.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes it's option "CUC" I think they call it. $165 for the privilege of painting your chrome.
  • myporschemyporsche Member Posts: 1
    What would be your preference assuming you could get a low mileage used 911 for ~ the same price as a new Boxster S - 65k
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Totally different cars. Mid vs. rear engine. 2 seater vs. 4 seater. Roadster vs. coupe. Only you can decide.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well both great cars but the 911 is a totally unique experience, like say a Ferrari. You can't find this 'experience' in another car even if you tried.

    So the point of what I'm suggesting is that you have to really enjoy the 911 experience---if you don't find it unique or interesting, then go for the Boxster S, which is highly competent and fun, and every inch a Porsche---but IMHO more conventional than a 911.

    I'd gladly take either one in a contest I won :P Personally I find the 911 more visceral, especially if I found a cherry 993.
  • cupgolfercupgolfer Member Posts: 1
    I have recently experienced two engine failures on a 2007 C4S. In both cases, there was no warning, no sputtering, the engine just immediately lost power. Trying to restart the car, the starter would try but no ignition. After sitting for about 20 minutes, the car restated and ran normally for about 90 minutes, when the exact same failure occurred. The dealer says there are no fault messages in the on board computer. Anyone have any ideas?
  • dbetlerdbetler Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. I need some help please. I just purchased a 99 911 and it is in good shape for a 99 with 93k on it. I had to have new tires done and a few minor things but over all the car is in VGC. I want to know if there is anything I can do to avoid the major repair that I saw mentioned in another forum where the engine gets destroyed. I can not remember what that repair was but it sounded pretty serious and I would not be happy if I had to replace a whole engine. Anyway,is there anything I can do to avoid that major event in a bad engine?



    The real reason I am looking for help is the dealer I purchased from (small exotic car dealer) told me that his wife dropped a soda on the floor and it blew out the DME (?) computer under the seat? I am drying out the water that is under the seat and I think the real reason is the drains under the trunk in front of the firewall were clogged and the water was runing in and down through the stearing column opening. I cleared drains and think I resolved the issue. I had to take the seat out and turn up the carpet to dry with a heater. AARGH)

    I found out that they had to replace the computer under the seat as well as the one in the back somewhere and the key fob chip (or the whole key fob) The car runs as the chip matches the new computer just fine however the key fob will not operate and open the power locks. Additionally, I am told by the dealer that I can not replace the key which runs the engine and the doors etc. I fear losing a key and having to replace all of the parts mentioned above. BTW.. the dealer bought the new computers and matching chip (key fob) from a used porsche parts place in Oklahoma. I have the VIN number from the Porshce (2000 911) that the computer and DME key chip, came from but the dealer can stil not program the key to open the doors.

    My concern is I want the key fob to open the doors and lock the car as well as get another working key with the chip. How can I do that? The dealer say there is no way to erase the codes in the replaced parts to reset to my car. They say I would need to replace those parts again and that seems crazy. They would be $1500. I do not want to replace what is working. I find it hard to believe that there is no master code to completely erase and reset the codes in the new (used replacement) computer under the seat and back of the car. Are there any suggestions as to where I might be able to go to to get this info and get this fixed? I live in IL and really want to get that key fob to work and get a replacement.

    I hope that explains my needs for any experts to advise. I really look forward to hearing from anyone.

    My email is dbetler@comcast.net if anyone has any info to share.



    Thank you in advance.

    Darryl
  • jasonnewyorkjasonnewyork Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying a used 911 and wanted to get some advice on how much servicing is likely to cost and any gotchas associated with this model / year. The car has low miles (<40K) and appears to look like it is in really good condition. Interested primarily in driving locally and will probably put +/- 10K miles on it per year.

    Any advice would be appreciated?

    Thanks

    Jason
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Great cars, but are you sure the seller can prove this 40K mile business?

    And if so, that's not a good thing, as Porsche do not like to sit there for years and years. Frozen calipers and galling of the cylinder walls (from accumulating moisture from non-use) are issues. So I would certainly have the engine tested using a Cylinder Leakdown Test (only that test, not a compression test) and also have the brake calipers checked.

    A Carrera of this vintage is a long-lived car as a rule and does not require lots of maintenance for the type of car it is.

    Presuming you got a very good to start with, I'd think about $1,500 a year in regular maintenance (exclusive of tires of course)---that is, a major service in the Spring and another in the Fall, should do it. Naturally, added to that might be the occasional repairs that come with a used car.

    But really the whole thing hinges on a very thorough pre-sale inspection, and a further careful investigation of this low mileage claim---which again, is not an asset to reliability, even if it might be to value.
  • katzeeekatzeee Member Posts: 3
    According to Edmunds, the appraisal value for a private party seller of a 1991 911 Cabriolet is approximately $8,000.

    Autotrader.com has these 911's listed between $18,000 and $22,000. Why such a large discrepancy?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Edmunds True Market Value is a great and accurate system for modern cars, but it doesn't understand older Porsche prices. Go with Autotrader on this one.
  • katzeeekatzeee Member Posts: 3
    I'm interested in buying a used Boxster or preferably a used 911. According to Edmunds, a 1991 Cabriolet 911 should sell for about $8,000 from a private seller BUT on Autotrader.com all the 1991 911's range from $18 to $26, 000. Why the large discrepancy?
  • katzeeekatzeee Member Posts: 3
    Thank you! I just saw your answer.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you buy a used Boxster, stay away from the first few years of manufacture, and if you can afford the S, it's a lot faster and more fun.

    Also, if you're buying a 1991/911, stay away from production dates prior to June '91.
  • hpowdershpowders Member Posts: 4,330
    I just bought a 2007 Forest Green CPO base 911 with 16,000 miles on it and I am very happy indeed!
    I don't understand all the hype that one needs PASM with 19" wheels. I have 19"/Pirelli Zeros, no PASM and the suspension is less harsh than that of my 2007 328i with sport package.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    "If there is one thing Porsche isn't afraid of, it's providing an abundance of choice. There are 20 different 911 variations alone, while every Porsche can be had with hundreds of options. The 2012 Porsche Panamera adds to its own automotive horn o'plenty with a pair of new models, the fuel economy-oriented Panamera S Hybrid and the range-topping Turbo S."

    http://www.edmunds.com/porsche/panamera/2012/#fullreview

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  • stickshiftonlystickshiftonly Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone. I would like to know how the Porsche 911 of the early-to-middle 1960s handled compared to the C2 Coevette of the same era. Any information and opinions would be welcome. Thanks very much.
    Jeff
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