How "practical" is a boxter for a daily driver? I average about 12K per year in mostly city type driving here in the congested NE. I would need to use the car year round meaning snow tires in winter. Would that make it OK for slick and icy roads as well as with a couple of inches of snow? How good is the AC? I need to wear a suit and tie at times and don't want what I remember to be a kind of MG or Austin Healy experience (I never owned, but just heard about). Can you fit a set of golf clubs in one of the hatches? How is if for a long (2-3 hrs cruise)?
Well these are always hard to answer. My opinion is that driving on snow is 75% driver, 25% car. Also, with a sportscar, you have clearance problems if the snow builds up excessively. But I don't see any reason why you couldn't drive a Boxster all winter in snow if you don't mind the abuse it might take from road grime, etc.
As for "icey" roads, no car is good on ice unless maybe it has 1" spikes in the tires. If two tires will slip on sheer ice, so will 4 or 8 or 16. There is the argument that if an AWD car can find just one patch of ground that isn't icey, you will move forward, and that is true, but an icey road is usually an icey road so I wouldn't count on AWD being much good on sheet ice.
I don't know about the golf clubs, sorry but I think I remember that they do fit. But don't play golf in the snow if you can avoid it, that's my advice.
As for cruising, the car is fine, and built for it, as long as you aren't like a reallly big person.
THIS IS MY FIRST TIME IN THIS FORUM, SO IF I AM IN THE WRONG ROOM PLEASE REDIRECT ME. I HAVE A 1992 PORSCHE AMERICAN ROADSTER. I HAVE LOST ONE OF THE WHEELCAPS AND HAVE HAD NO LUCK FINDING A REPLACEMENT. ANY IDEAS ON WHERE TO LOOK? ALSO, THE GRAVEL GUARDS ARE CRACKING AND STARTING TO LOOK BAD. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT TO REPLACE THEM, THEY MUST BE HEATED VERY SLOWLY AND THEN PEELED OFF. THERE IS THE POSSIBILITY OF THE PAINT ALSO COMING OFF AS THE GUARD IS PULLED OFF. ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS PROBLEM? THANK YOU
i found a 2000 911 conv, a real beauty with 8000 miles on it..no accidents, super clean. for $around $48,000.00..which sounds like a great deal.
question please...what should i be worried about. its an individual seller, nice guy when i spoke to him..anyway, please shed some light..does this deal seem too good to be true..?? thx in advance for the advice...
The private party retail value of the car you describe, assuming it really is in "outstanding" condition and well equiped with power memory seats, navigation, uprgraded stereo, etc. is around $48,000, according to Edmunds.
So I would describe the asking price as a "fair" deal, but certainly not a great deal. And by no means does it sound too good to be true. Don't forget, in the "real" world, $48,000 for a six year old car is still a lot of money to most. While that's a lot less than a new 997, it's only about $10k less than a brand new loaded Boxster S with comparable performance, an upgraded interior and a new car warranty.
FWIW, since I've been Porsche shopping, I saw a 2002 911 Cab with similarly low mileage and excellent condition advertised in the Washington Post about 6-8 weeks ago for $46,000 a few weeks ago. When I called, it was gone. That was indeed a great deal, courtesy of a subsidized relocation by the German Embassy. But the gentleman who I spoke with indicated it was still a bit above what the Porsche dealers offered him for a quick cash sale.
Regarding advice, I would suggest getting a complete service history for the car from the seller and speaking directly to the mechanic who performed the last service. If anything, a car with only 8,000 miles in 6 years may suffer from lack of exercise. I would investigate what may need to be serviced or replaced based upon the 6 year age, rather than the 8,000 miles.
Hi I need help pricing a 1984 911 targa convertible.It has a rebuilt 3.2 engine with 375 hp, with a new cd player and speakers,new clutch and has a 5 speed manual transmission.It also has new rims and tires but with the purchase you also get the original rims and tires.It is black with a whale tail and has leather seats.Im not sure of the exact mods to the engine because its not my car im trying to seel it for someone else.I dont know how many miles were on it prior to the engine rebuild. If you can please let me know what you think is a reasonable price to sell this car at. It will be greatly appreciated.
I have been searching for a low mileage 996 Cab (C2 or C4) and pretty much have decided on Ocean Blue or Lapis as the color. (GT Silver rocks as well) BUT....... what is going on with the interior design colorist? Savannah Beige? Do you really like MUSTARD? Perhaps with an orange tint to boot from the sun (Like a cheap dye job). Like I'm not a queer eye or a gay guy but this is disgusting.
And how about the Graphite GRAY. This color is the worst looking Gray on the planet. It has nothing going for it short of BORING. Black is Black. I like Black on a Black car. Not on a Blue Car.
Well, one could have ordered the NATURAL BROWN leather interior for $4000 extra if you really wanted a color that works. However, almost no one did.
The 05 997 interior color choices put Porsche back on track. The colors are great! The choices really work. Even the Black is more of a Charcoal than Black Black.
I guess I'll wait for the 05 to depreciate or the sun to keep working on Savannah Beige. Does Orange go with Blue?
I just picked up my Boxster for that very purpose--daily driver, year -round, in the Northeast. I found a set of used 17" Boxster wheels on Ebay for about $600 and am planning on spending $600-800 for a set Blizzaks to fit them. (Have done the same with several other sport cars in the past. You also tend to get a whole lot longer run out of the high-end summer rubber that came with the car.) The climate control system is outstanding. Yes, the clubs fit in the back if their in a regular carry-type bag.(No cart bags). The oversized driver will need to ride in the passenger seat. Hope this helps and good luck. It's an amazing ride!! The old commute is a lot more fun these days..........
I live in Toronto and I have decided to fulfill one of my childhood dreams and buy my first Porsche 911. I am looking at a couple 2002 Carrera cabriolets with about 44k kms (about 28k miles) since these are in my comfortable price range. Both are pre-owned certified from local Porsche dealerships.
The cars:
Porsche #1: 2002 carrera C2 Artic silver/black interior 44,000 kms $89,900 CDN ($75K US) picture of Porsche #1
Porsche #2: 2002 carrera C2 Seal grey/black interior 44,100 kms $87,900 CDN ($73,250 US) picture of Porsche #2
Both cars have very similar options. I love the Arctic silver color so I am leaning toward that one.
Obviously I have alot of decisions to make and would love some advice.
C2 or C4?
Considering this is my first porsche and I want to drive it year round should I go with a C2 or go for a C4? I work from home so I wont be forced to drive it when there is alot of snow on the road. I am not a racing/speeding fanatic so I think a C2 would suffice me as my first porsche but I wonder if a C4 would be worth the extra money as a year-round car. I drive a 1996 Honda Civic Si right now so any Porsche would be impressive to me, lol.
I have test-driven Porsche #2 and loved the ride but have not test-driven a C4 as yet. I plan to test drive a C4 before buying.
Best time to buy a Pre-owned Porsche?
Is end of August a good time to make a deal on a pre-owned Porsche? or should I wait a few months since winter is coming and the Cayman is coming out? Will there be more of selection of pre-owned porsches in the spring?
Other advice please!
I have been doing as much research as I can on buying a porsche so any other things I should keep in mind as I decide on my first porsche would be greatly appreciated.
I am looking forward to being a Porsche owner very soon :-)
Unless the C4 has all-season tires (not likely), then you'll have to buy winter tires/wheels to use it in the snow... You can't go out with summer performance rubber in sub-freezing precipitation...
And, if you have to do that, you can get by with the C2... Winter tires/wheels should be enough to get by, in any light snow...
Hi, I bought a new 996 cabriolet in Australia April 04 and experienced the same problem. I was also advised by my dealer that the canvas would stretch over time, which it did. The roof now works perfectly although during the early weeks it used to blow a few fuses. A wonderful car - it has been back to the dealership numerous times - principally re rattles in the roof and doors however all have been meticulously uncovered and fixed. I also have a Boxster S and placed an order for a Cayman S yesterday.
I live outside of Boston and am considering a Boxster. I have always wondered how a set of Blizzaks would perform. I spoke with a guy who swears his Boxster handles well enough and I see him year round with it. he says the mid engine design helps. It sounds like you have experience with this set up on other cars so my question is how effective is it?
I'd be interested in the answer to that question, and also this one:
What is the ground clearance on a Boxster?
Of course, you're not going to drive it through a foot of snow, but what is the point at which it turns into a plow? (roughly speaking: 2 inches, 4 inches, 6 inches?)
In my experience growing up in and still having a second home in the snow belt (125 inches last year), 2" of snow is probably passable in a Boxster with snow tires, but 4" of fresh snow will have peaks and valleys, the former of which will start to turn the Boxster's front skirt into a plow. Forget 6" altogether.
Please note that I use a real ruler to measure by. For some reason in Washington DC, they can't measure correctly. I've heard weather reports claiming we have 4" on the ground and my grass is still showing in spots. Perhaps the weathermen have an insecurity about what 6" really looks like. And they close schools on the (often incorrect) forecast of snow. If my hometown were that wimpy, I'd still be in grade school. Sorry, I digress.
I ended up locating a leftover '04 with 18" Carrera wheels and heated seats. Dealer took $11K off the sticker so I bought it. January has been mild so I've managed to put on 250 miles even though I have P zeros on it. Never got the Blizzaks. Maybe next year.
Now if I could stop worrying about the RMS I'd be all set.
Take my advice Jim, if there's more than a few inches down and it's below freezing, leave the P-Zero-shod Boxster home. I tried to get thru a NH winter with Good year F-1s on an AWD Audi and made it thru until the last storm of the season then found out how crappy high performance rubber is in wintry conditions.
It seems the early and late storms are the worst in the Northeast (heavy, wet snow).
TOOK DELIVERY OF MY 2005 BOXSTER IN MAY 2005, AND HAVE PUT ABOUT 11,500 MILES ON IT. I'M HEARING A CONSTANT PINGING SOUND FROM THE ENGINE WHEN ACCELERATING. DROVE SEVEN MONTHS W/93 OCTANE BP, AND RECENTLY CHANGED TO 93 OCTANE CHEVRON. BUT HAVE SAME PROBLEM. PORSCHE MECHANIC AT DEALERSHIP SAID THE KNOCK SENSORS DON'T SHOW ANY PROBLEM ON HIS COMPUTER. WHAT TO DO? SHOULD I IGNORE PROBLEM AND DRIVE OUT THE REST OF MY WARRANTY WITH THE TOP DOWN WHEN I CAN'T HEAR THE PINGING! ANY ONE HAS AN IDEA WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THE DETONATION OR PINGING PROBLEM? THANKS SO MUCH, JBG31792
Well not exactly, the GTO was a great car for an age of cheap gas but driving a car that gets 12mpg at best is problematic in an era of gas costing over &2.50/gal.
I was thinking of the appreciated value of the GTO as a collector car.
I see your point. They're really getting silly money for them now although I doubt mine would pull down the six figures some of the rarer setups are pulling down.
I am in Southern California/ Los Angeles market. Looking at purchase of a Carrera S Cabriolet. Seal Grey/Black top/Stone Grey standard leather. Options: CD changer, Bose sound package, Navagation for PCM, Heated front seats, Tiptronic S, Power seat package and 19" Carrerra Classic Wheels. MSRP $103,085. Dealer has offered $5,000 off MSRP or $98,085.
this is my first Porsche purchase. Any ideas if this is a good deal?
What dealer will give me $11,000 off as I am ready to buy a 911 coupe S with tiptronic?
I am in the Washington, D.C. area. The dealer said maybe $5,000 plus his dealer preparation fee plus TT & L.
The dealer says he won't be getting anymore until 2007's come in and they will probably have price increase. also, he says that he only has one tiptronic and doesn't want to get rid of it for a big discount etc.
A 928 GTS is a fabulous car, but you must have it thoroughly checked over by a 928 specialist. These cars can be prohibitively expensive to repair and most Porsche shops do not work on them, or know nothing about them.
Your primary concerns are: a) when was timing belt done last -- if it's due, plan to spend $1,600---$2,000 because you should also do the water pump and b) the clutch if it is a 5-speed. Also a very expensive item.
You need to buy these cars in tip top condition. I think the GTS is the very best of the 928s but you must be prepared to spend a reasonable sum per month on maintenance. If the car is well kept and serviced regularly, it should prove reliable. If it is neglected, it will eat you for breakfast.
By all means, have the car gone through stem to stern before you buy it. If you do buy it, line up some good aftermarket parts suppliers (google for 928 parts) so that you don't have to rely on the Porsche dealers----they don't even know what a 928 is.
You must have either a knock sensor problem or the engine is overheating. You had better correct this ASAP or you are going to melt that motor eventually. Heavy pinging is very dangerous to the well-being of the engine.
This is, by the way, an ususual symptom for a Boxster.
Hi.. I have a 2003 911 Coupe. I bought it used a couple years ago. A few months after I bought it, I went on vacation and the car sat for two weeks. When I returned, the battery was drained and dead. I could not even charge the battery so I replaced the battery with a new one. I just got back from vacation again and was gone again for two weeks...the battery was once again drained. Should I worry or is this normal?
I don't think it's normal. We have a 2004 Targa and a 2006 C4; we came back from a 2-week vacation last week, and both cars started up like they were just driven a minute ago. (Of course, we had to do the start the engine in 8 seconds or the alarm will go crazy drill.)
Hey there, I have recently traded an ultralight airplane for a 74-911, and a 81-928. I don't know a thing about porsches, but i thought it would be cool to learn abou them.
My first problem (and hopefully the last). On my 928, when i start the car, it will start, then the RPM's decrease until it dies (usually in the course of 3-4 seconds) after doing this a few times, it will finely run, but rough. The idle is really low. after about 1 min of rough idleing, it will idle perfectly. Then when i go to rev it up, it will bog down. If i slowly get into it, it will rev up to about 3000 rpm, then start to spudder. The exhaust smells really rich. I replaced the fuel accumulator (because it leakes) and i replaced the spark plugs (because it was cheap to do). I ran injector cleaner through the system, and it seemed to help, but not that much at all. I didn't know whether to replace the oxygen censor (which i couldn't find on the car) or really where to start. I guess i need some guidence. Thanks :sick:
First of all start with a compression test on the 928 and see what you're working with. If the compression is not good, then just get rid of the car and put your efforts into the 911. If the compression is okay, if I were you I'd hook up with some of the 928 specialists on the Internet and get some advice there, and also some manuals for the car.
Not too many Porsche shops work on the 928, so your 911 mechanic may not know anything about them (even if he thinks he does), and he may not care to work on them.
Main weak points on the early 928s are timing belt, clutches and water pumps. You might disconnect the catalytic converter for a test and see how it runs. it's an easy disconnect on that car and a shop could put in a test pipe. I ran mine for a long time like that in fact.
Buyers Beware at Stevenson Imports in Littleton, Colorado. I was purchasing a 98 porsche 911 from them. Agreed to a price and made the price subject to a prepurchase inspection. The deal was done and I wasted an entire evening searching for the mechanic to do the inspection. Called back the next morning to schedule the inspection and they told me they sold the car even though they had made a verbal contract with me. They are not to be trusted. In calling the owner of the dealership, they pretty much told me I was out of luck. Stay away if you know what is good for you.
Am looking for as much info on 1982 911/930 turbo production. Realize the embargo on this car was from 1980-1986 to the US. Would like to know how many of them were produced, and the pros and cons of this particular model yr. Any info on it would be appreciated... Stormyraine thanking you in advance.
They made 10,004 930s total from 1978-1985. Of those, 2,918 are US legal cars.
These are fast cars, a bit crude to drive, but wayyyy fun. You have to be careful, as the turbo boost comes on RIGHT NOW RIGHT HERE, so if you punch it with the car unsettled, you are definitely going into the weeds. The joke was that these cars got rid of more drug dealers than the cops did.
The US legal cars are probably worth more but demand is high right now. Mostly you have to watch out for cars that have been flogged or butchered by meatheads who don't know how to work on them.
This is not a comfort car, it's a wild ride and you have to be brave to drive it at the limits. It's still seriously fast by modern standards.
Modern Porsche turbos are far more tractable and easy to drive.
Thank you...........I Have a European '82 930 model. Is a whole lot o fun to drive, and you are right. Turbo will sit your seat right into the frame when punched. Seriously, it takes your breath away. Took it on a drive to SC and was a blast to drive thru the mountains...Searched for this car for many years. I have a great mechanic who grew up with Porsche and does all my maint. work. He knows his field well. We just found an origanl factory manual for it(WHEW!! that was a tough one to find!) Will be holding onto her for a very long time. Offers have been made for it, but am enjoying the car way too much to sell. Had to learn to read km to translate to mph. A retired airforce general gave me an easy conversion. (PS....He wants it bad).......(PSS...It fits me perfect,and I am having FUN!!) Thank you for the info. I wonder just how many were produced in 1982 alone?
Yepp..it is a 4-speed with power,and one that would be very unforgiving of a fool. You guessed right! I was frisky, and enjoyed the moments on a straight-away highway. Got the moment over with and have learned to be more respectful. My mechanic tends to care a great deal about me, ripped me a new B-hind. He probably saved me from myself, and stupidity. A lesson well learned. Thanks again.
Nowadays computers protect Porsche drivers from these elementary mistakes but back then you learned the hard way.
I find the early 930s a tad intimidating. My rule is to do nothing entirely radical with either the gas pedal or the brakes unless the car is in a straight line.
I am in the market for a used 911 in the $35K range.
Since I was a kid I always wanted one and now I have finally saved up enough cash to take leap but I do not know much about the various models and the pros and cons of each.
I want one that I can drive on weekends and that will give me the least amount of mechanical problems.
Can you please recommends which models I should focus on and the best places to look online for them?
I think a Porsche 993 (last of the air-cooled cars) from 1993 to 1997 (or early 1998), non-turbo, no AWD, no tiptronic, would be ideal. These are rugged dependable cars. Stay away from 90-92 C2s.
Of course, you will have to shop for the cleanest, lowest mileage car you can find, with excellent service records. Any car you find that is a "mystery" as to who owned it, how it was serviced, where it came from....just walk away. Pay a premium price for a premium car and ask to see all service records, or talk to the shop that serviced it.
Don't expect these cars to maintain their value however. They will decrease in value slowly just like any other used car, at least for the foreseeable future.
You can drive any modern Porsche daily, just like a Corolla if you wish, and they will run a long, long time. Just bring 'er in, in the Spring and Fall and have the car thoroughly serviced.
"Don't expect these cars to maintain their value however. They will decrease in value slowly just like any other used car, at least for the foreseeable future. "
Not sure I agree with this statement. I think 993s are at or very close to their bottom. They are very quickly becoming valued as "collector" cars and certain models within the 993 model range are quickly increasing in value (Twin Turbos, Turbo S, C2S and C4S for example).
Now, with that said, no car should ever be bought as an investment (at least not in the price ranges we're discussing here).
In real-estate it is location, location, location. With a used Porsche it's service history, service history, service history. I would rather a high mile care with an unblemished service history, then a low mile vehichle with a spotty past.
RE: 993s: What I meant was (more accurately) is that they are still behaving like used cars---that is, the newer years are worth more than the older years. That's the opposite of how a collectible car usually prices out. But you may be right, they might be close to bottom. It seems to take about 15 years for a Porsche to bottom out, then it starts to come up again. But not the 90--91s. The word is out on those.
Comments
Thank you for the help.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
As for "icey" roads, no car is good on ice unless maybe it has 1" spikes in the tires. If two tires will slip on sheer ice, so will 4 or 8 or 16. There is the argument that if an AWD car can find just one patch of ground that isn't icey, you will move forward, and that is true, but an icey road is usually an icey road so I wouldn't count on AWD being much good on sheet ice.
I don't know about the golf clubs, sorry but I think I remember that they do fit. But don't play golf in the snow if you can avoid it, that's my advice.
As for cruising, the car is fine, and built for it, as long as you aren't like a reallly big person.
i found a 2000 911 conv, a real beauty with 8000 miles on it..no accidents, super clean. for $around $48,000.00..which sounds like a great deal.
question please...what should i be worried about. its an individual seller, nice guy when i spoke to him..anyway, please shed some light..does this deal seem too good to be true..?? thx in advance for the advice...
eric
So I would describe the asking price as a "fair" deal, but certainly not a great deal. And by no means does it sound too good to be true. Don't forget, in the "real" world, $48,000 for a six year old car is still a lot of money to most. While that's a lot less than a new 997, it's only about $10k less than a brand new loaded Boxster S with comparable performance, an upgraded interior and a new car warranty.
FWIW, since I've been Porsche shopping, I saw a 2002 911 Cab with similarly low mileage and excellent condition advertised in the Washington Post about 6-8 weeks ago for $46,000 a few weeks ago. When I called, it was gone. That was indeed a great deal, courtesy of a subsidized relocation by the German Embassy. But the gentleman who I spoke with indicated it was still a bit above what the Porsche dealers offered him for a quick cash sale.
Regarding advice, I would suggest getting a complete service history for the car from the seller and speaking directly to the mechanic who performed the last service. If anything, a car with only 8,000 miles in 6 years may suffer from lack of exercise. I would investigate what may need to be serviced or replaced based upon the 6 year age, rather than the 8,000 miles.
And how about the Graphite GRAY. This color is the worst looking Gray on the planet. It has nothing going for it short of BORING. Black is Black. I like Black on a Black car. Not on a Blue Car.
Well, one could have ordered the NATURAL BROWN leather interior for $4000 extra if you really wanted a color that works. However, almost no one did.
The 05 997 interior color choices put Porsche back on track. The colors are great! The choices really work. Even the Black is more of a Charcoal than Black Black.
I guess I'll wait for the 05 to depreciate or the sun to keep working on Savannah Beige. Does Orange go with Blue?
I live in Toronto and I have decided to fulfill one of my childhood dreams and buy my first Porsche 911. I am looking at a couple 2002 Carrera cabriolets with about 44k kms (about 28k miles) since these are in my comfortable price range. Both are pre-owned certified from local Porsche dealerships.
The cars:
Porsche #1:
2002 carrera C2
Artic silver/black interior
44,000 kms
$89,900 CDN ($75K US)
picture of Porsche #1
Porsche #2:
2002 carrera C2
Seal grey/black interior
44,100 kms
$87,900 CDN ($73,250 US)
picture of Porsche #2
Both cars have very similar options. I love the Arctic silver color so I am leaning toward that one.
Obviously I have alot of decisions to make and would love some advice.
C2 or C4?
Considering this is my first porsche and I want to drive it year round should I go with a C2 or go for a C4? I work from home so I wont be forced to drive it when there is alot of snow on the road. I am not a racing/speeding fanatic so I think a C2 would suffice me as my first porsche but I wonder if a C4 would be worth the extra money as a year-round car. I drive a 1996 Honda Civic Si right now so any Porsche would be impressive to me, lol.
I have test-driven Porsche #2 and loved the ride but have not test-driven a C4 as yet. I plan to test drive a C4 before buying.
Best time to buy a Pre-owned Porsche?
Is end of August a good time to make a deal on a pre-owned Porsche? or should I wait a few months since winter is coming and the Cayman is coming out? Will there be more of selection of pre-owned porsches in the spring?
Other advice please!
I have been doing as much research as I can on buying a porsche so any other things I should keep in mind as I decide on my first porsche would be greatly appreciated.
I am looking forward to being a Porsche owner very soon :-)
Thanks to all that reply!
Denim911
And, if you have to do that, you can get by with the C2... Winter tires/wheels should be enough to get by, in any light snow...
regards,
kyfdx
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yes I will be getting winter tires for sure. I agree, I think the C2 will fit my needs, I just wanted to hear it from other Porsche lovers.
Thanks for your advice.
A wonderful car - it has been back to the dealership numerous times - principally re rattles in the roof and doors however all have been meticulously uncovered and fixed. I also have a Boxster S and placed an order for a Cayman S yesterday.
What is the ground clearance on a Boxster?
Of course, you're not going to drive it through a foot of snow, but what is the point at which it turns into a plow? (roughly speaking: 2 inches, 4 inches, 6 inches?)
Please note that I use a real ruler to measure by. For some reason in Washington DC, they can't measure correctly. I've heard weather reports claiming we have 4" on the ground and my grass is still showing in spots. Perhaps the weathermen have an insecurity about what 6" really looks like. And they close schools on the (often incorrect) forecast of snow. If my hometown were that wimpy, I'd still be in grade school. Sorry, I digress.
Now if I could stop worrying about the RMS I'd be all set.
then found out how crappy high performance rubber is in wintry conditions.
It seems the early and late storms are the worst in the Northeast (heavy, wet snow).
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
ANY ONE HAS AN IDEA WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THE DETONATION OR PINGING PROBLEM?
THANKS SO MUCH,
JBG31792
Are there any specific mechanical issues that I should be aware of while inspecting the vehicle?
Does anyone know about the reliability of this model?
Can anyone recommend a good Porsche mechanic in the Los Angeles area?
Thank you.
Well not exactly, the GTO was a great car for an age of cheap gas but driving a car that gets 12mpg at best is problematic in an era of gas costing over &2.50/gal.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I see your point. They're really getting silly money for them now although I doubt mine would pull down the six figures some of the rarer setups are pulling down.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Seal Grey/Black top/Stone Grey standard leather.
Options: CD changer, Bose sound package, Navagation for PCM, Heated front seats, Tiptronic S, Power seat package and 19" Carrerra Classic Wheels.
MSRP $103,085.
Dealer has offered $5,000 off MSRP or $98,085.
this is my first Porsche purchase. Any ideas if this is a good deal?
I was looking at your post and wondered if you could give
some ideas in reference to my 2 Porsche's.
I have a 1969 - 912 Porsche and a 1978 928 Porsche/El Camino back.
I appreciate any help you can offer on where would be the best place to sell these cars.
Sincerely, Anni
I am in the Washington, D.C. area. The dealer said maybe $5,000 plus his dealer preparation fee plus TT & L.
The dealer says he won't be getting anymore until 2007's come in and they will probably have price increase. also, he says that he only has one tiptronic and doesn't want to get rid of it for a big discount etc.
Advice?
Thanks,
Steve
The 928 Porsche El Camino (I think I know this car--is it yellow?) is definitely an Ebay item.
Your primary concerns are: a) when was timing belt done last -- if it's due, plan to spend $1,600---$2,000 because you should also do the water pump and b) the clutch if it is a 5-speed. Also a very expensive item.
You need to buy these cars in tip top condition. I think the GTS is the very best of the 928s but you must be prepared to spend a reasonable sum per month on maintenance. If the car is well kept and serviced regularly, it should prove reliable. If it is neglected, it will eat you for breakfast.
By all means, have the car gone through stem to stern before you buy it. If you do buy it, line up some good aftermarket parts suppliers (google for 928 parts) so that you don't have to rely on the Porsche dealers----they don't even know what a 928 is.
This is, by the way, an ususual symptom for a Boxster.
I have a 2003 911 Coupe. I bought it used a couple years ago. A few months after I bought it, I went on vacation and the car sat for two weeks. When I returned, the battery was drained and dead. I could not even charge the battery so I replaced the battery with a new one. I just got back from vacation again and was gone again for two weeks...the battery was once again drained. Should I worry or is this normal?
I would have your car checked.
I have recently traded an ultralight airplane for a 74-911, and a 81-928. I don't know a thing about porsches, but i thought it would be cool to learn abou them.
My first problem (and hopefully the last). On my 928, when i start the car, it will start, then the RPM's decrease until it dies (usually in the course of 3-4 seconds) after doing this a few times, it will finely run, but rough. The idle is really low. after about 1 min of rough idleing, it will idle perfectly. Then when i go to rev it up, it will bog down. If i slowly get into it, it will rev up to about 3000 rpm, then start to spudder. The exhaust smells really rich. I replaced the fuel accumulator (because it leakes) and i replaced the spark plugs (because it was cheap to do). I ran injector cleaner through the system, and it seemed to help, but not that much at all. I didn't know whether to replace the oxygen censor (which i couldn't find on the car) or really where to start. I guess i need some guidence. Thanks
:sick:
Here's some leads:
http://www.928intl.com/
http://www.928gt.com/
Not too many Porsche shops work on the 928, so your 911 mechanic may not know anything about them (even if he thinks he does), and he may not care to work on them.
Main weak points on the early 928s are timing belt, clutches and water pumps. You might disconnect the catalytic converter for a test and see how it runs. it's an easy disconnect on that car and a shop could put in a test pipe. I ran mine for a long time like that in fact.
I was purchasing a 98 porsche 911 from them. Agreed to a price and made the price subject to a prepurchase inspection. The deal was done and I wasted an entire evening searching for the mechanic to do the inspection. Called back the next morning to schedule the inspection and they told me they sold the car even though they had made a verbal contract with me. They are not to be trusted. In calling the owner of the dealership, they pretty much told me I was out of luck. Stay away if you know what is good for you.
Stormyraine thanking you in advance.
These are fast cars, a bit crude to drive, but wayyyy fun. You have to be careful, as the turbo boost comes on RIGHT NOW RIGHT HERE, so if you punch it with the car unsettled, you are definitely going into the weeds. The joke was that these cars got rid of more drug dealers than the cops did.
The US legal cars are probably worth more but demand is high right now. Mostly you have to watch out for cars that have been flogged or butchered by meatheads who don't know how to work on them.
This is not a comfort car, it's a wild ride and you have to be brave to drive it at the limits. It's still seriously fast by modern standards.
Modern Porsche turbos are far more tractable and easy to drive.
Yep they are a ferocious car. Now don't get too frisky!
Some people prefer the later models with the 5-speed (you have a 4-speed) but given all that power, it hardly matters.
Aside from the turbo lag, you have to be careful on this car not to lift off in a hard fast turn...but you know that.
Yepp..it is a 4-speed with power,and one that would be very unforgiving of a fool. You guessed right! I was frisky, and enjoyed the moments on a straight-away highway. Got the moment over with and have learned to be more respectful. My mechanic tends to care a great deal about me, ripped me a new B-hind. He probably saved me from myself, and stupidity. A lesson well learned.
Thanks again.
I find the early 930s a tad intimidating. My rule is to do nothing entirely radical with either the gas pedal or the brakes unless the car is in a straight line.
I am in the market for a used 911 in the $35K range.
Since I was a kid I always wanted one and now I have finally saved up enough cash to take leap but I do not know much about the various models and the pros and cons of each.
I want one that I can drive on weekends and that will give me the least amount of mechanical problems.
Can you please recommends which models I should focus on and the best places to look online for them?
Thanks,
D
Of course, you will have to shop for the cleanest, lowest mileage car you can find, with excellent service records. Any car you find that is a "mystery" as to who owned it, how it was serviced, where it came from....just walk away. Pay a premium price for a premium car and ask to see all service records, or talk to the shop that serviced it.
Don't expect these cars to maintain their value however. They will decrease in value slowly just like any other used car, at least for the foreseeable future.
You can drive any modern Porsche daily, just like a Corolla if you wish, and they will run a long, long time. Just bring 'er in, in the Spring and Fall and have the car thoroughly serviced.
Not sure I agree with this statement. I think 993s are at or very close to their bottom. They are very quickly becoming valued as "collector" cars and certain models within the 993 model range are quickly increasing in value (Twin Turbos, Turbo S, C2S and C4S for example).
Now, with that said, no car should ever be bought as an investment (at least not in the price ranges we're discussing here).
In real-estate it is location, location, location. With a used Porsche it's service history, service history, service history. I would rather a high mile care with an unblemished service history, then a low mile vehichle with a spotty past.