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Okay, a ton of ________________ (Regret? Pea Gravel? What?) :lemon:
Must sell. Need storage. Make offer or interesting trades?? Street rod??
Wait. Don't those interesting things need storage too? :confuse:
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Unfortunately I don't know anything about it. That house is where my friend rents a garage space to keep his Mark V, and that pic was taken back in October 2005. I remember meeting him at his place, and we drove over in the junky Mark V (amazing how good it looks in that pic, though!), and then he got the good one out of the garage and we took it to the classic car show in Rockville.
While those "A" bodies aren't rare yet, they seem to be disappearing at a pretty good clip these days.
I still see Centurys and Cutlass Cieras fairly regularly, but then that would stand to reason, as they held on through 1996, always sold well, and tended to be purchased by more mature buyers who would (hopefully) take better care of them. One of my neighbors has a '90's-era Century sedan (flush headlights, and the more rounded C-pillar that did away with the quarter windows), and it looks like it's holding up pretty well. I think the Celebrity and 6000 saw their last year in 1989 or 1990, and they weren't selling all that well those last couple years. The Celebrity peaked out around 1984-86, but by 1987 the Taurus was coming on strong, and beat it by a wide margin.
I'd say the three most common 80's vehicles I see around here, in no particular order, are the FWD GM C- and H-bodies (Electra, 88, LeSabre, etc), pre-1988 GM full-sized pickups, and the RWD B-body, mainly Caprices.
I can understand the pickups and the B-bodies, as they were fairly simple, sturdy, and durable, but the C- and H-bodies comes as a surprise to me. I know Lemko had good luck with his '88 Park Ave, and in later years they were better, but I still just figured the FWD, complexity, and relative fragility (if that's a word) would do them in?
Doubtfull. But it will cost a ton to make it not so ugly.
So, I'd say that car's worth at least a ton of driveway gravel. Pea gravel's a bit more expensive though, so it may not be worth that much. :P
Whoever built that thing must have watched "Death Race 2000" a few too many times as a kid. In fact, I'm reminded of a scene in that movie where the hot [non-permissible content removed] blonde chick says to the hot Cowgirl brunette... "Whoever named your car the Bull...was only HALF right!""
I personally know of a LeSabre of the same vintage that clocked in over 300K on the original motor and trans. It leaked everything, burned a little oil, but everything worked on it including the A/C.
The person that owned it sold it cheap to another family member then it was eventually was donated when it needed a fair amount of stuff to get it through inspection.
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Automakers, both foreign and domestic, were caught between dying technology of the past and yet-to-be discovered technologies of the future. What they had was transitional engineering--a hodgepodge of experiments, desperation and the vagaries of sloppy mass-production that was "pre quality control" as we understand it today.
Back in the day, "quality control" meant that you pulled defective cars off the line AFTER they were built and tried to patch them up prior to shipment.
My eyes personally glaze over anything built between 1974 and 1985, with rare exception.
At one time I had a 79 continental, an 89 Towncar, and a 2000 Solara. I drove the 79 the most. Of course gas was cheaper then.
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It's good that these big yachts go 25 miles at 35 mph to car shows, or 55 mph on flat 6-lane highways that resemble airport runways. That's all they are good for.
A '55 Buick is sports car compared to some of these big boys.
BMW factory restoration of a coupe
I particularly like the last quote, something like "total restoration would be over $100,000, resulting car would be worth $40,000."
If I came into some 7-figure windfall, I'd have my fintail shipped off to the MB Classic Center (now that there's one on this continent) for renovations.
Hey, if you have the money and it gives you pleasure, no reason you can't spend 3 or 4X the car's value in a restoration. It's your cash after all. The only annoying aspect is when a person does this and then insists that the car must be worth the cost of restoration---as if, feeling insecure, they need to somehow justify what is, in basis, an emotional decision, not a rational one.
Also the article is somewhat confused. They talk about cranky carburetors, but of course, the CSi in the article is fuel-injected.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
If anything happens to my E55 it will likely be replaced with a W124 500E or a 126.
I learned it right here.
Cheers -Mathias
And if it flies, floats, or fornicates, rent it. It's cheaper!!
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You're absolutely right, Shifty. The windfall I got would have to be big enough that I could put out the extra money just for the sentimental value. It's just that this was the first really good car that my wife and I bought. It was used, so we had to take a leap of faith in buying it, but the leap paid off handsomely by providing us with a car that has been dead reliable and took us many places with considerable style and comfort. It now lives in gracious semi-retirement, but neither one us can bear the idea of parting with it. Pursuant to what you said however, it would have to be a big windfall.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
I would have to agree with you, Shifty, specifically in regard to the factory restoration shop(s) that started this conversation. I think of a restoration as a project that returns a vehicle to as-new condition, using as many original-to-the-vehicle parts as possible and *not* updating/upgrading/changing things, such as transmission type, carb to EFI, adding A/C, P/S, disc brakes, etc. A "restoration" that includes those sorts of changes is a "rebuild" in my way of thinking.
I concluded long ago that, for all my interest and trivia knowledge about cars, I'm a lousy mechanic. I wish I were good with a wrench, but, unfortunately, something in my hard wiring conspires against that. That's why I reluctantly sold my '87 325 earlier this year. I was the second owner, the body and interior were near pristine, the drivetrain had been very well maintained and never abused, but the car needed about $2,600 in repairs and maintenance. Mileage: 127,600. Two dealers offered me $500, and, perhaps sensing my disappointment, suggested listing it on Craigslist. I did, and reluctantly sold it for $1,750. From the large numbers of responses, I know I could have gotten more, but I wanted to avoid the hassle of a lot of strangers coming to my house and test driving it.
You could buy yourself one tasty new Cadillac with that kind of money, and have plenty left over.
Heck, if I were to go out and get a new Cadillac today, I'd still end up pretty much buying the same car I already have - a DTS. The only difference is I'd get it in White Diamond this time instead of black which is a ferocious PITA to take care of!
That dark color probably makes the inside of the car a lot hotter, too. Sometimes I wish I had gotten a Park Ave in dark green, rather than that light brown/champagne/sandstone/whatever you call it color I got. But, I'll give it credit...that color is fairly light, so the car doesn't get too hot inside. And it's a color that hides dirt and dust VERY well!
My dark blue New Yorker looks dirty again about 10 minutes after you wash it, sort of like how black does. I guess a dark green would be the same?
Yes it would be as bad, I have burgundy and its no better either. My S10 is a pewter/beige color and it never looks dirty (and receives no where near the attention my DD does).
In general light cars are so much easier to keep clean.
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My dark blue New Yorker looks dirty again about 10 minutes after you wash it, sort of like how black does. I guess a dark green would be the same?
tjc:
Yes it would be as bad, I have burgundy and its no better either.
+1 on those statements ... dark colors have been harder for me to keep clean.
Our '02 Explorer was a dark green; might as well have been black for all the dirt it showed. The '05 Focus that replaced it was burgundy; same problem.
My late '03 Saturn L300 was "Pewter" - kind of a brownish silver. Hid dirt quite well.
The current stable - '06 ION, '08 VUE and '10 MINI - are all either gray or silver, all of which do a decent job of not showing the dirt and dust that we get here in Colorado. However, there couldn't be a more boring color palate than what I have in the garage. Yawn.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
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I believe its a '75. I brought it home with my today to clean it up and check it over. The scary ride home tells me it needs shocks, so I've ordered new ones already. The AC doesn't work and I've found the condensor is leaking. So I plan to order that as well and hope that is all that is wrong.
The odometer reads 40k. I'm pretty sure that's all it has on it. The overall condition of the interior and engine bay leads me to believe it. Also, found an old service sticker from 1984 that reads 23k miles. Its in pretty nice shape. A good #3 driver for cruise nights or whatever. Here are the pics I took.
So, what do y'all think? Is it worth fixing the AC? Or should I just sell it as is (after the shocks, of course). Would $4500 be a pipe dream with busted AC? Conversely, would $5k be possible with working AC? There's not rush to sell it, so heck, maybe I should fix it and offer it up for $6k? Am I nuts?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Once you begin replacing bits and pieces to upgrade the Cadillac, what if more issues crop up in the process? In for a penny, in for a pound?
It may cost as much to upgrade the suspension and A/C on a '75 Cadillac as it would a '70 Malibu SS, but the return on that investment is gonna be less, I think.
If $6K is the price you have in mind for the car with A/C and shocks upgraded, then consider posting it @ just under $6K with those needs untouched and see what kind of offers come in. Just a thought.
It's a nice car. Is your FIL the original owner?
By the way, how did you learn to do all the diverse repairs you've described on this board? I admire your talent.
My FIL is not the original owner. He is supposedly just the 2nd, though. He bought it at the Carlisle show almost 6 years ago. It was a mistake. He and his brother wanted to get something and they are Cadillac fans with a low budget. So they agreed to, I believe, $4k on this car at that time. Of course, the market was stronger then, too. But, also, it wasn't a car he loved. In the years that ensued, his brother ran into financial problems and my FIL bought him out, so the car he doesn't love is all his now.
As for the shocks, they only cost me $65 for all 4, and would probably take me all of 2 hours, if that, to replace. So that's going to happen. It just does not ride nice now and test drivers would probably be scared off the car based on that. A cheap and easy fix that will easily pay for itself.
To replace the condensor isn't a huge job, but the part is a bit more expensive (about $140), and, while I know the condensor is leaking now, there is no guarantee that's the ONLY problem with the AC. The compressor clutch does engage, I know that much.
Oh, by the way, does anybody know the name of the paint color??
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Of course, if you actually see *leaking* shocks, or the car slams against the bump stops with a crash, then of course you have to do something. But bouncey-bouncey?---that's a '75 Cadillac right out of the factory.
Looks like a very nice car--I don't see why you couldn't get $5K for it as it sits, especially if you could verify the mileage.
Your pricing speculations are quite accurate. This car could bring $6500 if the AC were ready to roll, so deducting $1500 off the price seems about right, as these old ACs could easily run up a $2K bill.
A used "classic" car that looks great and runs bad will sell far easier than a used "classic" car that runs well and looks bad.
Let someone else have the fun of fixing it up mechanically. You give them the beauty treatment---that's my two cents.
Actually it looks nice...I like the color combo for it, not red on white or gold on brown etc.