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Chevy Suburban
The Granddaddy of SUVS deserves its own unique discussion!
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
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mbreen
My fave hill got 14 inches the past 24 hrs... time to GO!!
Cheers!
Paul
Steve, Host
(obligatory on-topic: I'll take a couple of his friends too, which means the Suburban which means I gotta get the coffin box mounted too)
Cheers!
Paul
As for the '96, Duramax is the company that makes the engine. I think GM learned their lessons about crappy trasmissions and have been going with Allison trannies. Unfortunately, my diesel experience has only been with the 80s models. If I come across anyone with a 90s Duramax diesel (I assume it's 6.5L), I'll be sure to ask and relay their response here.
It's as if any "external forces", whether from uneven roads, wind or turbulence, can severly influence the steering.. feels like some unseen hands are pushing the truck around.
We've gone to the dealer of course with receiving the usual BS and nothing solved. The closest I've come though to a possible solution is from a mechanic telling me he's experienced the same problems with his late model Silverado, on the same stretch of freeway in fact, and that simply changing from the stock Firestone tires solves it!!??
Alignment and balancing shows no problems btw.
thanks for any info!
But what I do notice is something almost the opposite--at high speeds, going over bumps *straight on* so that both sides of the suspension cycle together, there's always a side to side shift. The degree of sideways movement depends on the speed and sharpness of the bump.
Lastly, none of this happened with the previous generation 98 Sub this one replaced (despite the older one having a soggier suspension, more body roll, etc).
On the other hand, yes, the steering is kind of odd. It never really bothered me, but my father hates that one part of my mother's trucks (had an Avalanche and now a Suburban), as the front end just seems to wander around despite your input...like there's slack somewhere in system. Really noticeable I guess, if you get on a bouncy roadway at higher speeds and are trying to keep it straight.
As far as the tires, I'm really not sure, but the Goodyear Wrangler HP's that were on our Av did seem stiffer and made the truck handle more crisply than the Firestones on the Suburban, which, while not horrible, are clearly not the greatest when it comes to tires. They probably do make some difference though.
.. I'm considering changing the tires.. and I wonder if some kind of aftermarket steering stabilizer would help..
Might not hurt to have a reputable, independent alignment shop double check your settings.
Randy
Not sure of the exact brand and part #'s right now, but I know of a lot of people who did this mod and noticed significantly sharper tracking and steering response over the old rubber parts.
RW
I think I would go to another reputable alignment shop and double check your settings. After I lowered my 2004 (4WD with autoride and stabiltrac), I had to have the front end aligned. The shop gave me a certificate that showed the allowable range, and my before and after settings. I have had no problems with excessive tire wear with either my 2000 or 2004 Suburban, both 4WD though, which, if anything, should be worse as far as tire wear goes.
www.carradio.com/
454cid, 2wd, 3/4 ton, 3.73 ratio.
Thanks
I'd take it to the dealer when possible and have them align that thing.
What real world price might I get for it?
Thanks!
Or, anyone in No. VA interested? ;-)
And please, no buying and selling on the boards. Try the Sell Your Car link on the main Edmunds.com page.
Steve, Host
Thanks for the links.
Used Suburban are a lot like used pickups. There always seems to be a market for them.
Steve, Host
meredith, "GMC Yukon XL / Yukon XL Denali" #1, 24 Oct 2000 10:17 am
that you may want to search thru for more info. It was created when the new body style came out in 2000.
FYI, I've had a 2000 and currently have a 2004 Suburban, both 4WD and hardly a problem worth mentioning with either.
Steve, Host
So far I like the functionality of the Sub, but the rattles and overall feel of cheapness are a constant reminder of why I generally avoid GM vehicles. I've put about 2000 miles on the burb and nothing has gone wrong yet. Hopefully it will be fairly reliable, but reading about some of these posts has me genuinely concerned.
If you don't have a locking rear end, this would be a much less expensive option and will help tremendously in those slippery conditions.
Anybody know the problem and how to fix it?
Is this a fault that has something to do with the tilt mechanism?
Is my steering wheel going to get even more wobbly?
Thanks
Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
Thanks
Thanks for any help.
Even with 4WD, without some sort of rear locker or traction control system, you will have "no wheel drive" if one front and one rear wheel starts spinning.
The locking rear end was a $295 option on the Suburban. Expect to pay more than that to purchase one and have it installed in your rear end.
I have gone thru 2 sets of cats one under warranty. Have had a major tune up done by the dealer and new cap and wires to no avail. The problem still exists and the dealer now tells me it is in the valve train and I will need to have the heads reworked????????
Anyone with any insight as to what the problem might be please respond before I drive the truck into the water!!!
I've heard of a misfire causing this too. But you said you had a major tune up (plugs, wires and the rest I'll assume) so a mis wouldn't be the problem. Unless the didn't replace everything. Did the shop say why they are sure it's in the valve train. I would think that would show up all the time and not just under load.
Depending on your rear end gears, your house would have to weigh 5-6K to pull it within limits ; )
I pull a 5500lb camper with my 99.
Duramax is a different beast. It is a joint venture between Gm and Isuzu. Little in common with the earlier 6.5 except for they both burn diesel.
Check out the links:
http://www.62-65-dieselpage.com/
http://www.dieselsuburbans.com/DieselSuburbanFacts.htm
hopefully someone can help me out. I have a 99 2500 suburban with a electronic transfer case. My problem is that my transfer case has developed a leak from the side of the rear housing of the transfer case. Its not a crack but appears that the case is porous. There is a small hole that my mechanic tried to seal with epoxy, but the leak is still there. Any recommendations.
Also, I have a cooling system leak. There are two hoses that run back towards the firewll ad have a junction. Then they continue to the firewall. Can anyone tell me what the connector is called and the approximate cost?
Thank you, Peabody2