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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    Take a look at this document.

    http://www.doacs.state.fl.us/press/2004/06162004.html

    We had a very similar experience at Just Brakes with our Tahoe earlier today. Anyone else out there experience this problem?

    The state Attorney General's office currently lists 49 complaints filed by consumers in the state of TX alone.

    Bait and switch is the technique being used by Just Brakes...according to the Florida press release.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Help! Now that I have my low RPM thing fixed, I have another problem. When accelerating, what sounds to me like being directly underneath the drivers and passengers seats is a sound like pieces of aluminium clanking together. It only happens when I accelerate, usually from a dead stop and ALWAYS stops when I release the throttle.

    In addition to that, when I hit 70mph I get a vibration that sounds like its coming from the back. Over 80 mph (oops) it stops. Wierd.

    Any help??
  • smwest1958smwest1958 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find where the fuel pressure regulator is located on your tahoe. I have a 1999 suburban and am trying to change mine too. Was it difficult?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    This is where it is located on my 00 silverado 5.3 see the gold circular object? Look at the C in Vortec and go down from there. It was simple to change took 5 min.

    image
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    They are trying to get money of you. Get a lawyer to give them a call. It usually helps when the dealer knows they are wrong.

    If you paid for extended warranty they are responsible of fixing it. There is no way you can do any harm to the differential other than if you had an accident and the rear axle received a strong hit or something. And you did not have an accident, right?

    The car engine power is not enough to damage the differential if it is designed correctly what is we all must assume. If something is cracked in differential it most likely is material fault.

    Don't give in. Make them fix it under warranty you paid for.

    Arrie
  • marvkmarvk Member Posts: 2
    When I first start my 07 LTZ the humming from the fuel pump is very loud, warmed up at idle it is quieter but still noticeable.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    My husband just pointed out to me that the "arms" of the gas and brake pedals are both rusty looking on our 2004, 27,000 mile Tahoe. The service guy seemed to not know how to reply at first, then said the guy next to him (this over the phone) said that it is normal. Seems weird when we don't live in New Orleans (flood!) nor near the beach. Why would they be rusting inside the truck? He said it is uncoated metal and just having wet feet would be enough. Is this a problem or is it normal? The warranty ends in July.

    Also, on the warranty subject, is there anything that I should have checked before it runs out? I am wondering if there are any known issues that I may not be aware of that could be detected early. Thanks.
  • sasz71sasz71 Member Posts: 14
    Check the zoot (carpet padding). From the area near the brake pedal, pull the carpet up and reach down to feel the padding on the floor. If it is wet and unless somone took it all a part to clean and dry it, it is probably still wet. That is a sign you have a swamp salvage. Keep looking for signs like watermark stains on the door panels, rust on the condensor outside the vehile, etc.

    It won't necessarily show up in Car Fax or any other vehile history records. Buyer beware. But if has been swamped, especially in salt water and you bought it from a dealership, sue! They know if if they deny.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    Forgot to mention that we bought it new, and have never had it in water deeper than your average deep road puddle. Is this a normal condition, or does it signify a leak from possible the engine compartment or somewhere? Dealer tried to make it sound "normal".
  • sasz71sasz71 Member Posts: 14
    Glad to hear you don't have a swamp salvage.

    My 2002 brake pedal arm looks painted black and the gas pedal rod looks like aluminum, no signs of rust. If yours is uncoated, it might be normal to have some minor surface rust just from the moisture in the air but very minor at most. I would still check for moisture under the carpet. If you do have a leak and the carpet padding is wet, it will not dry but rust out your floor given the heat from the exhaust will excellerate the process.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    The 2004 Silverado had the same symptoms. I've also seen the same comments posted on several other boards about 04+ trucks and SUVs, so the dealership isn't pulling your leg about it being normal. Most of those that I trust seem to also believe it's nothing to be concerned about, unless you're just embarassed to let others see it. (Not that it's likely to be noticed by anyone else)
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    Get some Rustoleum paint and fix the problem forever.
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    When I took it in for maintenance, I mentioned the rusty pedals. They ordered new pedals, which meant they had to keep it overnight. When they attempted to install the brake pedal, some sort of bolt broke. Apparently it was rusted on too tight. I don't really know how or why it broke, but it meant keeping it another night for parts to come in. Good thing they had given me a loaner!! Don't know if it was "normal" or not. THe guy did say "I guess you just got a bad one." Who knows, maybe nobody else ever noticed it, or maybe it is NOT normal.
    Anyhow, if anybody else had rusty pedal arms, they may be replaced under warranty and save the headache of potential used truck buyers wondering what may have happened. (mine is an '04, 3 years is up at end of July, 28,000 miles)
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    So long as your pedals were repaired to your satisfaction, that's all that matters. :)
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    We have noticed that when it is very quiet in our 2004 Tahoe (still under warranty for 3 more months), there is a ticking sound coming from the dash (driver side). It is like clicking and ticking, sort of rattle-like and not with any real rhythm. When it was recently in the shop the answer I got was that it was the instrument panel, and that other people have had it. They claim that when they replace the instrument panel the noise usually returns. WHen the key is turned off, there seems to be like an exhale of air and whatever is clicking gives one last big rattle.

    ANy ideas on this? Do you agree it's the instrument panel and/or gauges? Should I get it replaced, or might they do more damage to things that aren't broken!? Anything else it could be?
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    If it goes away with the key off, then I don't see how it could be the IP. How about something in the blower fan? Or something that's got sucked in thru the exterior inlet air and is hitting the fan? Something to check.
  • jmalikjmalik Member Posts: 10
    Interesting that i also get that very faint (it's almost like a whirring fan lightly grazing somethign) behind my dash in my 2003 Tahoe. I can live with it, but it drives my girlfriend nuts. Any insight as to what can be done would be helpful.
  • jmalikjmalik Member Posts: 10
    Hi gang - wondering if anybody else is experiening a gradual 'chipping away' of paint (or is it the round decal itself?) on the power/volume knob of their Tahoe/Yukon radio (I have a 2003 w/ the Bose system). I know that this is because of oils/chemicals we all use (some more than others) on our hands 'seeps' into the paint (the knob that says "volume" and "push" on it that is back-lighted.). I have searched high and low (on eBay and more) for a 'replacement volume/power knob' but can't find one. Any ideas.?
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    If your noise really is the IP issue the shop is saying it is, they're right. I've read plenty of other owners reports on the same noise with the 03-05 trucks and SUVs elsewhere, and some have replaced the IP only to have it come back. The ones who didn't replace anything didn't experience anything worse later though, so it's just an annoyance at best.

    Also, I agree that it's most likely the same issue for you- turning the key off kills power to the main guages (most of the needles drop to their 'resting' states). That's probably what causes the 'exhale of air' and the 'one last big rattle'. Besides that, I'm always wary of having anybody take my vehicle apart to fix minor annoyances because it HAS been my experience that they definitely DO do more damage than they fix, especially in interior stuff (they seem to get a kick out of scratching trim parts with tools, among other things). Unless you start noticing something more serious (guage stops working, lights don't, or lights won't go out, etc.), I'd live with it.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Yes, I have the same problem on my 03 Burb. I just choose to ignore it. If you find a cheap fix, let us know.
  • jweaver10jweaver10 Member Posts: 2
    My 1999 Tahoe continues to show an error code of insufficient temperature stuck in open loop. I have changed the temp. switch, temp. sensor, and thermostat. I am going to flush the radiator even though the coolant looks good. The temperature when traveling down the road drops to 150 then varies between there and 210. Also I have noticed the oil pressure does the same (between 25psi-55psi). Any thoughts?? Please help.
  • martin22martin22 Member Posts: 53
    Without a doubt, that sounds like a failed U/J. Not too expensive a repair.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    You sure your water pump is pumping?

    Arrie
  • jweaver10jweaver10 Member Posts: 2
    Yes it is. I have noticed that I am leaking a little water from the pump but it is a very little amount. The truck still runs at 150 degrees all the time even with the second AC Delco Thermostat
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    If the little water your water pump is leaking is coming from the weep hole below the shaft, then it's telling you that it's time for a new one as the seal is going Tango Uniform. It will fail catastrophically and probably when you least want it to.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I was asking if the pump is pumping because you might have a water pump failing the way that it pumps but not enough flow. You said you changed temperature sensor and thermostat and the problem still is that it runs cool and then hot, i.e. temp varies between 150 and 210.

    Well, that 210 is a bit hot I would say. I think it should be below 200 at all times.

    Your problem could be that the hot coolant does not reach your engines temperature sensor. This would mean that your engine actually runs much hotter than the temperature gauge says.

    If I was you I would replace that water pump ASAP. It also leaks thru the weep hole...

    Arrie
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I had a small coolant leak on my 99 Tahoe and could not determine the source of the leak. I was concerned that the water pump may be getting ready to let go so I replaced the water pump, thermostat and drive belt. Before and after the change, my temperature gauge typically read between 150 and 160 degrees. I assume that this is normal (we all know what happens when we assume). The gauge could be out of calibration also, who knows?

    I still have the small coolant leak. This one baffles me. It will go months without leaking and then I will see a small puddle under the front of the truck. My best guess is that it is coming from somewhere in the transmission cooler line, but I am not sure. Any help on other potential sources for this leak would be appreciated.
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Hoses or radiator?
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Appears to be hose, not radiator!
  • mszuchmszuch Member Posts: 1
    Not sure if anyone had answered this one, but had the same thing happen on my 99 Tahoe. Seems the part that holds the bulbs has a tendency to "burn out", usually causing one of the bulbs to not work. In my case, only the emergency flasher would work, even though I changed all three bulbs. Once I changed the holder, bingo!! Seems the parts guys always keep them in stock as they "use them like candy" at the dealership.
    Good Luck.
  • lwhitlerlwhitler Member Posts: 1
    i'm new to this site and just wondering if you ever solved this problem. I have a 2003 and it does the same thing...clicking and ticking with no real consistency.
  • jturennejturenne Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 2003 Tahoe, and the dealer replaced the instrument cluster that the speedometer was part of. No problems since. Good luck!
  • coopdog1coopdog1 Member Posts: 1
    I went through some deep puddles a few days ago because we got a bunch of rain and my transmission has been slipping. Something to worry about or will this go away. Thanks!
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    coopdog said: we got a bunch of rain and my transmission has been slipping. Something to worry about or will this go away.
    ___________________________________________________________
    The rain is not making your transmission slip and no, the problem will not go away by itself. Better get the vehicle into a shop before more damage results.
  • jims04tahoejims04tahoe Member Posts: 3
    Hello all, searched discussion with no solution for a squeaky front end on an 04 Tahoe. Very noise at slow speeds and while turning. Disconnected sway bar no change. I noticed, it looks like the suspension is sitting on the bump stops up front and it appears the noise is coming from there. The truck has 57K. Thanks for any insight.
  • needafixneedafix Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem. I had the same error message "service 4wd" and I took it to the dealership to find the problem. They said I need a new electrical "module" on the transfer case that controls the 4wd. After a $96 diagnostic fee and a quote of almost $800 to fix, I left still with the problem. Does anyone know if this part should fix the problem? If it will, what is the part number or the techincal name for it so i can order it from somewhere? This goes on a 04 Tahoe Z71
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    If you are truly sitting on the bump stops, then you probably have a spring problem.
  • jims04tahoejims04tahoe Member Posts: 3
    I've checked the torsion bars, and the truck's ride height appears to be the same as other Tahoes I've seen (with out sliding under them). I didn't know if the bump stops are an intregal part of the normal operation of the front suspension. I have no abnormal tire wear. They are touching, not sitting.
  • kdl2471kdl2471 Member Posts: 10
    Hello, I had the same problem with my 2000 tahoe. I carried it to my local dealer and was told the same thing that you were. My husband works with a man who does a little bit of mechanic work on the side, suggested a new transfer switch, just to try and see if that would work. So I got a used one off of ebay for around $35.00. My husband changed it and the service 4wd message has never come back on.
  • duval1duval1 Member Posts: 30
    Anyone replace the black plastic grille of the early 2007 LTZ with the chrome mesh grille that's now standard on LTZ?
    If so how difficult and how much.
  • shibbydasecondshibbydasecond Member Posts: 1
    Yes they sure do. GM started it in 96 and ford started it around that time also.
  • fdc629fdc629 Member Posts: 3


    Unfortunatly, I don't have any advise. However, the same thing happaned to my '04 Tahoe LT, with the same exact symptoms "All the other vents including the back seat were emitting cold air." I took it to the dealership, they looked at it and said they didn't find a problem. When I got it back it was working fine and has been every since.

    I was wondering what your solution was?
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I have a 99 Tahoe with the dual rear cargo doors. Both doors have always been difficult to open/close, but the left one, which doesn't get used often, has become very difficult. I have used PBblaster for years to no avail. I also just noticed that some type of bushing/washer in the hinge mechanism has been significantly compressed, which is a change from it's previous condition.

    Are there any recommendations out there for an "easy" rehab on these hinges?

    Thank you,
  • fdc629fdc629 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '04 Tahoe LT and I'm experiencing a popping or maybe a ticking sound under the car near the gas tank. It kinda sounds as if someone is tapping on metal. I thought it was liquid slowly dripping on something hot. It does this after driving for about 20 min. and continue even when I turn the engine off.

    Any suggestions before I take it in for service?
  • psnlcpsnlc Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem. have you figured out how to fix this yet? if so let me know and if i do i will do the same.
  • lnuttlnutt Member Posts: 3
    YES... WAS A BAD FUEL PUMP... AND WHEN WE CHANGED THE PUMP(PAIN IN THE BUTT,HAD TO DROP GAS TANK) WE FUSHED LINES AND CHANGED FUEL FILTER... HASN'T COME BACK YET!!!!! 4 MONTHS NOW.ALL THE LOCAL MECHS WANTED TO DO HIGH DOLLAR FIXS HEAD TAKE DOWNS ETC.ETC.
  • wiggeywiggey Member Posts: 2
    That whirring sound IS a fan. It is for a 'Cabin Air Sanitizer & Filter' hiding somewhere behind the dash. The book says you are supposed to change the filter every now & then, but unless you smoke in the car with windows closed it really isn't necessary. It runs with or without the key on BTW.
    I hope this answers your question. Have a blessed day.
    wiggey
  • pampeyanpampeyan Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem with my 97 Tahoe 4wd. Did you ever get to a resolution? Was it the ABS sensor, warped rotors, out-of-round drums? Are after-market rotors and drums a more permanent solution? Thanks for any advice or pointers.
  • rriversrrivers Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the previous comments, my wifes 2004 tahoe ls has same problem with the hot air on the drivers side only, currently it is working fine, with the exception of the check engine light came on at the same time this problem began, just wondering if yall had the same experience and if so did replacing the part correct the check engine light or reset it or what
    thanks
  • whitallwhitall Member Posts: 190
    I have a 2004 Tahoe with 34,000 miles and of course the warranty ran out July 19, 2007.

    Noticed a couple puddles of coolant under the middle of the engine. There is a cross bar (fram piece) running under there and it seems to be dripping off the back of that. It's not major yet, and coolant reservoir is still full. I assume that any sign of a leak should be looked at?

    This is pretty low miles, so I am looking for ideas of whether it is more likely a big problem, or an easy one. I'd take it to the dealer, if I thought they'd extend the warranty to it, but don't want to get caught with their charges if they don't.....

    Any thoughts or ideas? Is there anything that is common to go wrong (coolant wise)at 3 years old??

    Thanks
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