Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • jmalikjmalik Member Posts: 10
    Thank you sasz71 - did you have to do anything with your speed sensors/speedometer calibration?
  • washedsquirrelwashedsquirrel Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 chevy tahoe z71 that i just got a month ago and all of a sudden yesterday when i was driving down the road the power steering just stoped working all together so i checked everything the fluid level the lines everything looks good and the pump is not making any noise yet i still have no power steering. any help would be appresiated?
  • elc2281elc2281 Member Posts: 1
    2205 Tahoe/z71: I had the radio replaced at a dealer, and they cant figure out why my rear speakers make a loud ringing noise, louder when I accelerate. When i turn on my rear radio though it stops. Radio/cd plays in just front speakers. I have had my truck in the shop almost everyday for weeks. Someone please help?
  • sasz71sasz71 Member Posts: 14
    It seems the Z71 does not realize it is riding with smaller diameter tires so the speedometer does show faster than actual speed (a few miles/hour at highway speed) which probably explains why I have not had a speeding ticket in a while.

    I have GPS on the PC which shows the actual speed so I do not find it necessary to recalibrate the meter. Someday I'll put 40" ground hawgs on which will really through it off in the other direction.
  • rttahoerttahoe Member Posts: 2
    My 02 Tahoe front suspension rides right on the snubbers. Is this correct? not much much shock travel.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Can't help, But our 2003 does it too. However its only about once or twice a month. Like you said, turning on the rear radio stops the noise. After a stop/restart of the engine it sometimes goes away. We haven't had it to the shop to look at it.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Who ever that told you that a 20 inch wheel will not fit is an idiot.

    The wheel size has very little to do with the overall size of the tire. You can have a 20 inch wheel and have a smaller (diameter & width) tire.

    Go over to look up the size of tire that came stock on your truck - write down the diameter and width. Compare it to a 20 inch size tire - find one that is close.

    Just as an example - a 265 70 17 Goodyear Wrangler HP is 31.7 inches in diameter (tall) a 265 50 20 is only 30.5 inches.

    Best advise is to NEVER take the advise of anyone at the dealership.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    sometimes ill be driving down the road and the whole rig will jsut go dead. this includes all elecronics, including the clock radio completely resetting itself. when it does this, it will either start right back up, or start and run for a split second, then die. now, it normally starts the second try, but lately it has taken almost 10 tries, one try it is dead and the next it fires and runs fine. i also noticed a click in the dashboard the last time it fired, but i only noticed this once. i posted messages about this a few months ago under curious_gears, when it was very common. it has since then went into remission until a few days ago, and it is doing it worse than ever.
    any suggestions?
  • chieftp101chieftp101 Member Posts: 1
    What did you ever find out about your 2003 Tahoe not starting? I am having the exact same problem with mine. I had over a 1/4 tank of gas left in mine and it acted like it was out of gas. It does the same thing, I drove it last night, everything was fine but when I got in it this AM it won't start. Its not the first time its happened. I turn the key on and it tries to start then quits like I turned the key off. Terry P
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    earlier this morning, i got in the car with my kids and started my new 99 tahoe. it started flawlessly the first time, but my daughter wanted her ipod out of the house, so i had to shut it down. when i tried to start it again, all it did was crank and crank and crank. pumping the gas pedal did nothing. i did however, get it started by standing on the gas pedal, to the floor, while it cranked. it sputtered some then...RHOOOAAAARRR. now, it runs fine. it hasnt done it since. i will also mention that i live in washington, and here its about 27 degrees out and very snowy. i got this car about a week ago, and its already causing problems. very weird
    any ideas?
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    Are you aware that the fuel filter location on your vehicle has been changed. It is now located inside of the fuel pump. And the fuel pump is installed inside the fuel tank.

    You ask, Do they have to drop the tank to replace the filter? You betcha... Do you have to buy a new pump to replace the filter? Oh Yeah...'ya sure do. It's a unitized assembly...yuk,yuk,yuk...

    Who does this help? The$$$$.$.

    Unfortunately, the cost of replacing the new type filter at a Chevy dealer is about $800-$1000...used to be $120 installed in the previous model design.

    Careful buying dirty gas ya' could cost you more than you know!
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Who were you replying to with this? I'm fairly certain that this change isn't GMT900 specific, btw. Although the pre-02 or 03'ish models most likely still have the externally (in-line) filters, 04+ models of many of them got the feature. My 04 Silverado had it, for example.

    Cost savings? Not sure how. A chance for the company to make money for dealerships? You betcha. Same thing as the redesigned headlight assemblies on the 07+ Tahoe/Suburban/Avalanches. You can do it yourself, but it's not easy and is time consuming, versus the 5 or 10 minutes it took to change a bulb in the previous models..
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    Are you the one who does not drive a Chevy Suburban or Tahoe? Is misreprepresenting oneself not a bad thing?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Are you the one who does not drive a Chevy Suburban or Tahoe?

    Ownership is not a prerequisite to participating in our discussions and I advise against provocative imputation.

    tidester, host
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    tidester says,

    Are you the one who does not drive a Chevy Suburban or Tahoe?

    Ownership is not a prerequisite to participating in our discussions and I advise against provocative imputation.

    It is confusing and misleading to have Avalanche information posted as Tahoe information on the Tahoe forum. Why not limit the Tahoe forum to Tahoe info?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    It is confusing and misleading to have Avalanche information posted as Tahoe information ...

    I don't believe it was posted "as Tahoe information" but, yes, certainly the emphasis should be and is on the Tahoe. My commment concerned "you don't even drive a Tahoe" type statements.

    tidester, host
  • gamatogamato Member Posts: 1
    Hey did you ever figure out the problem? I have a 99 Tahoe and Im having the same problem. I would appreciate any info you can spare .Thanks. If you found a solution, feel free to e-mail me at [email protected]
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    If you found a solution, feel free to e-mail me at ...

    That would deprive the rest of us of valuable information. If you keep the conversation here then we can all learn and benefit from it. :)

    tidester, host
  • joelcnelsonjoelcnelson Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Tahoe that starts fine when the vehicle is cold, but after the vehicle has been running, it many times will not start well (turns over for 10-15 seconds before it will start). I have been told by many people it is the Fuel Pressure Regulator that needs to be replaced. So I did buy one to try replacing, but now can't seem to locate in the vehicle. I found one place online that said the fuel pressure regulator was found in fuel injector housing area, so I needed to remove the upper intake manifold (which sounds like a lot of work). I found a few posts on Tahoe's saying they replaced the fueld pressure regulator in a couple of minutes, which would lead me to believe it's in a easy to replace area. Can anyone veryify location? Hope it's not under the manifold... Also assuming that if I remove the upper manifold, I need to torque bolts back down to a certain spec as well...
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    The person in question actually claims on this forum to be driving a "stretched TAHOE". There is no such vehicle - according to my Chevy dealer anyhow.

    When pressed he claims it's actually an Avalanche. If he states that his posting on the TAHOEboard is based on his experience from an problem. But if he does not...then who can be sure what it means or where it came from?
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    Here for your info is the "stretched Tahoe".

    Message #2051 Re: Why are you surprised? [rspencer] by jerrywimer Oct 20, 2006 (7:51 am)
    I can and do hold vehicle drivers responsible for the fuel economy of the vehicles they are ... enough to be compared fruitfully (pun intended). If I was talking about a Ford F-150 versus the Tahoe you'd have a better point. And if you didn't know that the Suburban is basically a stretched Tahoe, you've been out of the states for awhile. Check out Chevrolet's web site to ...

    Message #2047 Re: Why are you surprised? [bk777] by jerrywimer Oct 20, 2006 (2:33 am)
    Yes. It was weird. Mainly annoyed with folks that aren't just skeptical, but nearly offensive in ... etc., evidently) My disclaimers were to make sure everyone knew I wasn't talking about a Tahoe, but a close relative of the Tahoe (my 07 Av), and that I know that I tend to be above ... But like it or not, the current Suburban (and the past several generations) are not much more than stretched length Tahoes (hence heavier) with a few more available drivetrain options (2500 series, ...

    Message #2033 Re: Why are you surprised? [rspencer] by jerrywimer Oct 18, 2006 (10:06 am)
    Nice try at changing the subject. The 07 Av is the virtual twin in drivetrain with the Tahoe, and nearly so in the body (based on Suburban- stretched Tahoe, if you will). So my observations are valid. More importantly, I've included ...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    "The Avalanche's interior - its entire body except the bed, in fact - is shared with the Chevrolet Tahoe SUV."

    CNN Money

    Seems to me than an Avalanche owner has plenty to share with the Tahoe crowd.
  • vette9358vette9358 Member Posts: 1
    just wanted to help you out!! just bought an 01 tahoe and had the same problem.. a 4wheel drive vehicle has to have matching size tires all the way around.. mine had 265x16's on front and 245x16's on back which is fine in 2wheel drive. but have to be matched in 4wheel drive. as all 4wheels are pulling and have different diameter tires. so there working against each other.. this can tear up transfer case and tranny.. so just get good set of matching tires!!!!!!! heard about this problem while reading on the blazer and jimmy problem site... love the tahoe lt.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Thanks steve. I've held off replying to any more posts such as those from bk and others, since they can't seem to understand that all GM did to create the Avalanche was modify the design of a Suburban. The modifications so far (and since the 02 debut of the Avs) have been limited to bodywork and what exactly is over the frame in the rear. The drivetrain and general options are extremely close. It's how GM affords to create and sell such a limited volume vehicle profitably in the first place, and why those of us with an open mind can benefit from reading experiences on either Tahoe / Suburban forums or Avalanche forums (such as the one I'm a member of elsewhere, where Tahoe / burb owners frequently drop by and find solutions to issues they share in common with our Avs).

    I've stopped mentioning anything about what kind of vehicle I own. Likewise, if the discussion isn't concerning something I know something about or something shared in common between the vehicle I own and the ones under discussion here, I don't participate.
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    According to the resource I contacted at the GM Global Operations' Technical Center in Warren, MI there are over 1000 technology, component and systems related product differences. The structural, electrical, mechanical, surface finish and chemical corrosion coatings,etc. are NOTall the same.

    steve says, "The Avalanche's interior - its entire body except the bed, in fact - is shared with the Chevrolet Tahoe SUV."

    The midgate portion of the Avalanche's body is an obvious major difference.

    You might want to avoid CNN and go to the product avoid making such inaccurate statements in the future.
  • bk777bk777 Member Posts: 32
    No problem and no harm intended. How do you feel about tendentious reasoning being used to post inaccurate product information on your website? Are you permitting that practice on behalf of your employer? Is your employer in agreement?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    How do you feel about ...

    I feel that if you have facts, experience and can bring enlightenment to the discussion then, by all means, please do so. :)

    tidester, host
  • fratjapan09fratjapan09 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Tahoe. The problem is that when i hit the door locks, sometimes they pop up and sometimes it sounds like they are going to move but nothing happens. When I get in and put it in gear, the automatically lock. But when I turn the truck off, they should unlock. I hear the click as though they will but nothing happens. Also every morning I have to start it with a jump. It will hold the charge all day. After it sets overnight I have a really hard time the next morning. I've replaced the battery and connections. ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!?!?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Platform sharing would make a good discussion over in Automotive News & Views - we really should get back to maintenance solutions in here.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    bk777 said: But like it or not, the current Suburban (and the past several generations) are not much more than stretched length Tahoes...
    Seems to me the Tahoe is a mini-Suburban, not a stretched tahoe as the Suburban has been in the GM lineup a lot longer than any Tahoe model.
  • lgh112671lgh112671 Member Posts: 2
    Ever since I connected a trailer to my 05 Tahoe the interior lights will randomly turn on and the DIC will display "Divers Door Open". Also, the heated seat will turn on as well.

    Anybody experience the problem before?
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Excuse me, but please keep the namecalling to your own house. Some of us actually try to keep the discussion relevent as well as mature.

  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    BTW, you still contend that I'm somehow out of line for posting here because I own an 07 Avalanche instead of a Tahoe or Suburban. Despite whatever source you have quoting the number of unique differences between these vehicles, I stand by the fact that 90%+ of the components in the Suburban and Avalanche are still shared (heck, that was true for the 2002 models, which had even less than the 07's, thanks to the cladding and different sheetmetal for the Avalanches at the time). I've refrained from posting about anything that-
    1) I have no knowledge or experience with whatsoever, or
    2) is something not shared in common for the three vehicles I've mentioned (Tahoe, Suburban, Avalanche).

    For example, I haven't bothered posting anything concerning the water drainage system (or problems therewith) in the Avalanche, since it's unique. Nor have I bothered talking about the bedpanels, tailgate, or other such Avalanche-specific items. Likewise I don't chime in if folks have questions concerning the (optional?) trizone automatic climate control system in the Tahoe and Suburban (Av only gets a dual zone setup), the optional rear seat heaters (second row only) or power-flip seats, power liftgate, etc..

    But things like the drivetrain (engine, transmission, fuel tank / pump / filter), frame, suspension, most bodywork, windshield, side windows, most electrical items, most electronic goodies (especially engine-management related or audio system related), THOSE are ALL nearly or completely identical between the three vehicles (moreso for the Av / Suburban the the Sub / Tahoe or Av / Tahoe, in fact!). So those are fair game, and I not only learn a lot from the posts others make here about their vehicles, but I occasionally have the ability to contribute.

    So again, please take the childish namecalling and other such nonsense off these forums. You may not like what I have to say, but what I've just said above (and earlier) are FACTS and can easily be backed up by simple searches using tools such as Google, or even bothering to talk to your local GM dealership, service department, and parts department. (Also why the current TSB on flexfuel vehicles applies to my Av as well as your Tahoe / Suburbans with the SAME drivetrain and engine!)
  • f_nabe20f_nabe20 Member Posts: 2

    I have a '03 Z-71 with the same proplem. I read the lean mixture codes, changed the plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor, and the problem came right back. I then brought it to the shop where they replaced the MAF sensor; the same problem returned. I have a K & N filter, but no problems for around 10,000 miles when I bought the vehicle with the air filter installed. What did you do to resolve this issue? Any help would be appreciated!

  • jbwijbwi Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Tahoe that started grinding when engaging 4HI from 2HI. It sounds like it is front driverside but could be center of the truck. It gets louder as I slow down. The shop that looked at it thought it was an actuator but I think it might be more than that. The 4HI engages but then pulls slightly to the left. As soon as I diengage it pops out and you can feel the release of the front drive unit. Any Thoughts? :confuse:
  • ahoronahoron Member Posts: 30
    Have you checked fluid level in front axle? My 2002 blew a seal on the axle and had same problems I filled axle with oil problem went away.The seal is a pita to replace.
  • jbwijbwi Member Posts: 2
    I have checked levels and they are fine. I have read about some sort of ring that can let loose in the transfer case but it seems to more in the front drivers side.
  • f_nabe20f_nabe20 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '03 Z-71 that is idling erratically, getting poor gas mileage, and lacking power. I read both banks lean mixture codes, changed the plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor, and the problem came right back. I then brought it to the shop where they replaced the MAF sensor; the same problem returned. I have a K & N filter, but no problems for around 10,000 miles and bought the vehicle with the air filter installed. I noticed one other indiviual had this problem last fall posted, but no resolution is described. Anybody help would be appreciated!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    This is worth a read:

    Diagnosing a bad MAF

    (You have to scroll down and skip a page to finish the article)
  • johnny4016johnny4016 Member Posts: 112
    I own a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71. Does anyone know anything about the lights by the push buttons you use to switch between Auto 4 Wheel Drive, 2 Hi, Neutral, 4 Hi, and 4 Lo. I always keep my Tahoe in 2Hi and the orange light is illuminated, that is unless I'm 4 wheeling, etc and need to be in 4 wheel drive.

    Recently I noticed that while I was on my way home a Red light was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi. It was dark so I couldn't see what this red light meant; the next day I checked it out. Apparently the Red light is for Neutral.

    My Transfer could not have been in Neutral since I was driving and drove for over 40 miles. I did flash my High Beams on and off a couple of times prior to getting on the road to check them out. Could this have something to do with why the Red Transfer Case light for Neutral was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi?

    When I started it back up the next day the Red neutral light was off and the Orange 2Hi light was on. I did not notice any unfamiliar noises or driving condition. I have driven several hundred miles since and nothing seems to be wrong. It just irks me that the red light was on and I have no idea why?

    I recently have had service done on my transfer case, transmission, and differential. 50K maintenance, fluid & filter change, etc. I had to use the Auto Trac II for the transfer case, which I think is a racked that Chevy has a monopoly on. I used Full Synthetic for the transmission and differential thou. I also had my Transmission and Rear Differential pan and cover replaced with the MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. I don't think that any of the above would have made the Red light come on. Maybe flashing the Hi Beams did it? Any one?

    Also lately the heater for the passenger seat comes on all by itself when someone is sitting in it. Has this happen to anyone else?
  • johnny4016johnny4016 Member Posts: 112
    I just finished reading my owner’s manual again for the 2nd time and the WARRANTY Manual that came with my 2004 Tahoe.

    I believe that I found out something really good for everyone concerned. Even after our 36/36 warranty has run out there are still several hundred parts that are covered under factory warranty that you probably don't know about up to 70K, 100K and even 150K for some parts.

    For instances anything having to do with the emissions, and I mean anything. Even your Air Filter is covered up to 100K. The list is to long to type out, but I recommend that everyone read it.

    Most of the problems listed above and in the forum are covered under factory warranty up to 100,000 miles that the dealers will not tell you about. You would not believe me if I typed it out, so please read your warranty manual to see for your self.

    Also you can replace your factory parts with an after market part and you will not void any of the warranties. That is so long as the after market part is of the same quality or better than GM uses. And that is not hard to beat in most cases.

    I have replaced at my expense, my Air Intake to a K&N 5700 series, my spark plugs to E3 and my plug wires to MSD Super Conductors. I have also replaced my Transmissin pan and Differential Cover with a MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. These hold more fluid and keep the parts cooler. Especially if you tow a trailer or do 4 wheeling. In addition I used Full Synthetic gear oil and Transmission fluid instead of the stock fluid and gear oil. This will also help the part last a lot longer. Anything small to help my 2004 Tahoe Z71 get better mpg and allow me to prevent any costly maintenance I have decided to do. As soon as I can afford it, I'm going to replace my stock coils with the MSD coils. The MSD coils will also improve the mpg as they put out a multiple spark compared to the stock coils. You can pick up a set of all 8 for a little over $700.00 at Kragens or Pep-Boys.

    I guarantee that 99.9% of you will be shocked to discover that you have purchased a part that was covered under warranty. :)
  • tomkosttomkost Member Posts: 2
    Hey Sasz71, how is the truck now? My 2002 Tahoe with 68k has the same problem, just started.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    After about $1000 in replacing plugs and the MAF, I brought it to someone different and they discovered that my Manifold seal was cracked and leaking gas and air! This air leak was causing the LEAN BANK-1 and LEAN BANK-2 codes to be thrown. So another $500 and everything runs smoothly.
  • regloffregloff Member Posts: 1
    Hello - My 2004 Tahoe Z71 is currently in the shop for the samething. I had in the shop about 8 months ago with the same problem. The chevy dealership said it was a eletrical short. 900.00 later it was fixed. Until now, it is going to cost me another 900.00 to repalce the computer. I am trying to find out more about this. I am sure it is something I can by for about 200.00 and install it myself. Thanks Rich
  • sasz71sasz71 Member Posts: 14
    I would not say it's cured, but I listen for the noise everyday and only occassionally do I get the knocking noise on early morning start-ups. The Lucus oil additive seems to work with no adverse effects.
  • tomkosttomkost Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Sasz71. I went to the dealer yesterday and after talking to them for about 30 min, I'm starting to think it might be ok. Basically the sound only happens when on a cold start below 40deg, which is not so often in Dallas where I live. And it goes away in like 10-15 sec. If I let the engine idle a bit before taking off, no sound either. Otherwise the engine runs really good. The mechanic said his truck does the same thing. Since my truck is not under warranty, the dealer could have offered to make some expensive repairs, but they did not. So I at least have to assume they believe what they are saying to me. I'm willing to live with it for now and hope for the best. I'm not to inclined to put oil additives, but I might consider using synthethic oil in my next oil change to see if that changes anything. The dealer rep was not a big fan of synthetic oil either he said it was a not needed expense.

  • michaelhall131michaelhall131 Member Posts: 2
  • mimanmiman Member Posts: 3
    I have this on my 01 tahoe. I agree with bamspeck. I would have found that a syn. oil (amsoil 0w-30) all but eliminates the problem. Sticks to the metal parts better.
  • mikegreenmikegreen Member Posts: 1
    My wife's 04 Tahoe had the same problem two years ago while it was under warrenty and they fixed it. Now it has happened again and we took it to the dealership and they were going to replace the same part. So I said BS to that and we are ordering the part. It's part AC/Delco #89018365 found on this website,ACDELCO,HEAT+xxampxx+AIR+CONDITIONING,6848,HE- ATER+xxampxx+AC+CONTROLSxxslashxxVALVESxxslashxxACTUATOR
  • harlygirlharlygirl Member Posts: 1
    I am very upset right now and wondered if anyone else had this problem.. i originally brought my tahoe in 3 weeks ago for noise in the rear end, they came back and said there was metal grining in the differential and fixed it under my extended warranty. 2 weeks after getting it fixed a noise was still there, i returned it back to the same dealer today and now I am being told that i did something to the rear end and something had cracked, i was even asked at one point if i had gotten into an accident when i have never been in an accident in this vehicle. This just sounds to strange/odd to me when i had my vehicle in 3 weeks ago for the same noise that they are now saying is my fault and is not covered under warranty, how can a rear end problem be my fault? How did they not find it 3 weeks ago. Anybody with comments please, this just sounds like a bunch of bull to me. I have an exteneded warranty I paid for, I just don't get it. :sick:
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