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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    Thank you for trying to help. I looked at the NHTSA website last night and to get more info on service bullitin #3081 they want $34.00 flat fee. I have not done this because if the info they send is the sentence I have already read about the summary of the bulletin, that will suck. If I could be sure that it has the solution to the problem I would gladly pay the fee. I called NHTSA and they told me to call CHEVROLET, I did that and after tons of questions and an hour on the phone they told me to take the tahoe and our fishing boat to the dealership and get one of the technitions to ride with us to show him what it is doing. (it only does it when towing, mainly).They charge so much at the dealership, Ive already put so much $ in this mystery
    I want to trade it in on a Toyota truck!
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    alborn,

    Very strange problem you have if it only shows up when towing a boat! But then in this post you say "it only does it when towing, mainly". That "mainly" kind of says it is not just towing problem. It might show up worse when more power is required from the engine but you might have it going on at all times.

    Does your engine have the aluminum heat shields around spark plugs? My 04' Tahoe does (or did).

    I had a problem with misfire severe enough to put service engine light on when the spark plug boot was not installed correctly on the plug (not deep enough) and the spark shorted through the heat shield to engine ground. Shields in my Tahoe have a grounding springs in the end of them that prevents spark from forming between shield and engine.

    When I removed the grounding springs I could see faint sparks between several heat shields and cylinder head.

    With grounding springs removed I tried two sets of GM spark plug wires and two third party sets to try eliminate the spark between heat shield and engine ground with no luck. It seems that regardless of the spark plug wire set some spark leaks through to the heat shields and a spark shows where the shield is close enough to engine ground.

    If you have the heat shields take them out and see if it helps. Your spark plug boots will get hotter but they will not burn away immediately. If you get help doing this then do what I did: Go purchase a good set of racing spark plug wires that do not need to use heat shields.

    --Arrie--
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    I have had the tahoe start to "shudder/ vibrate" while going up hills on the interstate a few times when I am not towing. You can feel this in the gas peddle, and your body. When I let off the gas, and resume, it quits. The only time the light flashes is when Im towing. It is not a yacht either just a 18 foot fishing boat. The wires and plugs in the truck are the best and the standard for the truck. Thank you for replying to my problem.
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    What is really weird is when I get it scanned, it says #4 misfire EVERY TIME!
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    I got the service bulletins for free by emailing a request with the service bulletin numbers to [email protected]

    It took a few weeks for them to respond with copies of several pages each for each bulletin.
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    Thank you sasz71, I will try that..........

    O.K. Last night I was on the interstate and I was going about 75, I passed a motorcycle, on a hill and while on the hill, the light came on and started flashing, but I felt no vibration, or shaking. After the hill, it stopped flashing but stayed on. Now today, or soon, as before, when Im driving around on regular roads, the light will go off I bet. I hope Im not driving everyone crazy with this, thank everyone for reading these and trying to help though. I almost have the damn thing payed off ( 1 more payment) and it is acting worse and worse. A mechanic told us it may be a bad injector or stuck valve. Maybe a #4 new injector would fix it?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    alborn,

    Swap #4 injector with another cylinder injector to rule it out as a problem.

    I wouldn't think the injector is the problem. I don't believe that the computer in the car knows if fuel burns in a particular cylinder or not but it can know if your spark is not right. Someone correct me if I'm wrong with the above statement.

    It didn't come clear to me if you have those aluminum heat shields around spark plug boots?

    --Arrie--
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    Yes, there are aluminum heat sheilds around spark plugs..
    Since taking the intake off is such a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] (off a chevy truck) it will be easier just to put a new injector.
    ( instead of taking intake off, swapping it, putting it back together, see if that fixes it, then if it is the #4 injector, taking intake off again, putting a new injector on

    Seems like just putting a new one on would be easier. I bet that wont fix it either though.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    alborn,

    I don't understand what you mean by it being easier to put a new injector than to swap two of them. By swapping I mean you take that #4 off with say #3 and then install #3 to #4 location and then #4 to #3 location. I don't think you need to remove intake for this. Fuel rail removal should be enough.

    But first, take that heat shield out from that #4 if you know which one it is. Taking them all out for sure rules the shield spark leakage out as a problem if you still have the problem without them. Very simple test to do and could completely fix your problem.

    --Arrie--
  • fcoxfcox Posts: 7
    I appear to be having this problem in my 2003 Burb on the driver side only (dual zone clmate controls). Any insight on the cost of this repair or is it a "do it yourselfer"? Thanks.
  • ohjoy61ohjoy61 Posts: 4
    Did you find out what the problem was,? Mine did this AM..
    weekend, what a Pain......
  • I recently had the fuel pump go out on my 2002 Tahoe and had to have it replaced. Prior to the new fuel pump, I would typically get 14-16 mpg city/ 18-20 Highway. Now after the new fuel pump, I am lucky to get 12 mpg on the highway. Anyone have any suggestions on the cause of this?
  • ohjoy61ohjoy61 Posts: 4
    2003 Chevy tahoe,,,, Went to store, ran fine, returned home, parked over night, Went to go this AM to Lowes, No Start, turn Key turns over once and shuts down, like you turned the Key OFF....but didnt,

    I am also having Remote Door lock Problems, Any help would be appreciated.....

    Thank you
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    timberlane,

    How did your fuel pump go out? Did it just quit or did you lose fuel pressure with pump still running?

    Do you think your gas mileage went bad because of the new pump?

    You could have a fuel pressure regulator problem. If fuel pressure is too low fuel will not spray correctly thru injectors. This for sure would mean worse gas mileage.

    Have your fuel pressure checked and have it done at different location than where the fuel pump was replaced to get true answer. Hope they didn't have your fuel pump replaced when you might have just a regulator problem.

    --Arrie--
  • ohjoy61ohjoy61 Posts: 4
    It just quit, I pulled in driveway, and turned it off. next afternoon it wouldnt start////
  • It just wouldnt start one morning. I will have the pressure regulator checked. I had a different dealership inspect the truck after the fuel pump was installed and they could not find anything wrong that would cause the gas mileage problem.

    Thanks for your input
    Stephen
  • I have a 95 tahoe and the air conditioning never has worked. I was wondering if I should spend the money to have the a/c looked at and or recharged or should I try to do it myself. Are there any do it yourself kits that actually work and is there any way to check the system myself before doing either of these options?
  • rbeechrbeech Posts: 1
    What did you find out when going to the dealer about this problem? I'm having the same message on my 2003 Tahoe.
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    I did not take it to the dealer. Im tierd of putting money into it. No one ever knows what the problem is anyway. Im selling. Im also sick of putting almost $70 dollars in it to fill it w/ gas. (every 4 days)
  • I think I may be having problems with the fuel pump on my 2001 tahoe. It keeps idling and seems to want to die if I am at a stop light. How can you tell if you need a new fuel pump?
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    I think I may be having problems with the fuel pump on my 2001 tahoe
    ____________________________________________________________
    You idling and dying at stop lights problem could be caused by many things other than the fuel pump. Usually whe a fuel pump goes bad your engine won't even run. Your problem could be a dirty fuel filter, or even electrical related (plugs, wires, timing, etc) or possible fuel injection related. Take your Tahoe to a good garage with a diagnostic center and let thme pinpoint the problem.
  • Ok rockman here is my update so far on my battery. It has gone out 3 times. On top of that my cig ligher went out, then I'm driving home from work and my fm and am dont work!

    I take my Tahoe to the dealership and tell them they can have this [non-permissible content removed] car that I dont care what do with it. I told my service adviser that I want to speak to his mgr. We are all sitting in small room, and I let lose! I first said I know that they have done everything they can, I dont blame them but GM.
    Now they know I'm piss and they hand me a ck right there for 1.000.00 I told them that I cant except the money because I'm going to my lawyer. He tell my that the ck is only for all my inconvience. I call my lawyer @ the time he tell me to take it. I tell the service mgr that I suppose to take my daughter to Mammoth for a week, I had to cancelle because I cant trust this car.
    So I leave the dealership get home to call GM to start a case #. Well they call me on Friday and tell me there nothing they can do. That it is the user and not the car.
    I will let you know what happen in court! :mad: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Starultra: I still think you should take your Tahoe to an indie shop and get a second non-GM dealer opinion. Be sure to chooose and indie shop that has the latest diagnostic equipment. There is obviously an electrical problem that is causing your battery to fail. The cig lighter and radio failures are probably related to the battery problem. At least you got $1000 which will help cover some of the diagnostic costs. The last thing you want to do is get into a court fight with GM and/or the dealer. It is a long and costly battle and you can bet their pockets are deeper than yours.
  • Rockman, if I lose my case there is no money out of my pocket, thank god I have been through hell and back with this car! My lawyer only get 10% if I collect any money at all and if I dont he get nothing. My lawyer pay for all the filing fee out of his pocket. We will see, all I know is I want out of this car.
    If GM said to me right now we will put you into a new Tahoe I would go for it, but there not. I will keep you updated on whats going on. I do know its going to take sometime. I only hope everything happen before ski season. I snowboard all winter in Mammoth. I cant trust this car to take it there. My daughter is 15 she and I are the only one who go down there. Anyway I have to get ready for work take later.

    Shan :lemon:
  • axle916axle916 Posts: 2
    Just joined this Forum hope this right place to post?

    I had "Service Engine Soon light come on my 99 Tahoe with 71,000. I took it to a private mechanic and the dealer. Both said I need for them to go and and pull the heads and clean and re seat the valves. The dealer said it was because of poor quality of gas (not enough cleaners in fuel now) I'm pretty upset with GM 71,000 and had to have a valve job done. It cost me $1600.00; this may be my last American Vehicle. So does anybody know good fuel additive on the market?

    Any advice on how to improve gas mileage?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    So does anybody know good fuel additive on the market?

    Check out the Fuel and Oil Additives discussion.

    tidester, host
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Did they ever tell you what Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) set the light on?

    Sounds very strange that a service engine soon light tells the mechanic and the dealer shop that they must pull the heads and clean and re-seat valves. Never heard of such before. (I know for sure there is no code saying they need to do that.)

    If you have the service engine soon light come on and that would be caused by VERY dirty valves you would have all sorts of engine performance problems like very rough idle. Valves dirty that bad that it sets the code would require build-up on valves to be so severe it would not allow valves to close properly.

    Sounds all BS (sorry my language) to me but perhaps you had all of the problems with engine performance that you really had very severe build-up on valves.

    Right now, based on what you posted, I think you were hosed off of your money. Sorry to say that but it seems like more than half of the repair shops INCLUDING dealer shops just want to make a quick buck on anybody they can and bill you for work that they do not even do. If you don't stand next to your vehicle when they work on it you have no way telling what they do or don't do.

    After seeing what my Chevy dealer did or didn't do when my new Tahoe had problems and I had to fix it myself when it was under warranty I can not trust anybody with car shops any more. Luckily I can fix almost any problem on my vehicles or at least diagnose what the problem is so I can protect myself a little bit better than an average car owner but it just scares me to think how people who can't do that are paying so much money for work their vehicles don't need.

    I'm sorry if my comments make you loose your sleep over your money as you might have been hosed quite bad. But as I said, perhaps you did have all sorts of engine running problems and had really dirty valves.

    If these shops would really have wanted to help you they could have told you to try some fuel additives first to clean your engine valves. This of course would not have generated any business for them.

    Go ask your private mechanic what kind of relationship he has with your dealer shop.

    --Arrie--
  • azla3azla3 Posts: 4
    HI! I have a 2001 Tahoe LT w/approx. 68,000 miles on it. For almost a month my "Service Engine Soon" light would come on, then go off. Took it to the local Advance Auto, to have them check it w/their little handheld diagnostics. Just trying to get a small heads up before getting the screws put to me by the local GM dealership. The read on it was 0-2 sensor. I gave my brother a call, he's an over the road truck driver/mechanic, he told me to check my fuel cap, make sure it's on good & said better yet, just grab a new fuel cap & see if that doesn't do the trick first. HELLO!!!!!! NO MORE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light!!!! He said you just wouldn't believe how sensitive these new vehicles are to the smallest of things. And how simple they are to fix and dealerships are making a ton of money ripping people off!!!!!!! It's been 3 months 4,000 miles later & still no "SES"...
  • afflockafflock Posts: 1
    just recendtly at 38000 mile(after my warranty expired) my controls for my dash and my radio that are on my steering wheel stoped working. then i noticed the service air bag message on my dash. it is always there. i have a 03 tahoe. any help work be great. thanks.

    anthony
  • First off, quit turning on the AC. I had the same problem and just ingnored it. Turns out it was the clutch in the compressor. It gnawned it self up and froze in the compressor. $1000 later it was fixed.
  • dochoudochou Posts: 4
    What is the factory setting for top speed on '02 Tahoe. I need this in writing. Some sort of official chevy document.

    I need to show this to court judge b/c a cop gave me a ticket indicating that I went over 100mph, when there is no way my SUV can ever go over 100mph due to factory speed limiter.

    Thanks for any info.
  • dochoudochou Posts: 4
    What is the factory setting for top speed on '02 Tahoe. I need this in writing. Some sort of official chevy document.

    I need to show this to court judge b/c a cop gave me a ticket indicating that I went over 100mph, when there is no way my SUV can ever go over 100mph due to factory speed limiter.

    Thanks for any info.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    This link is from the Michigan State Police and indicates the 2002 Tahoe has a top speed of 98 mph. link

    Here's another, non-Chevy, link
  • dochoudochou Posts: 4
    Thanks, for info. But second link does not say anything about top speed.

    Anyone have any service manuals or factory bulletins indicating what the factory top speed is?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I am afraid you are out of luck. The governor limited speed on a '07 Tahoe is 112 mph. I doubt the '02 was much different. (Do a Google search with the words speed governor tahoe which will bring up several sources.)

    tidester, host
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    But second link does not say anything about top speed.

    Slow down and read the second link again:

    "Acceleration from 0 to 60 mph is a relatively decent 8.7 seconds but top speed is a lowly 98 mph."
  • I hope you haven't tried this. I had the same problem with our 03 and I tried taking it apart. It looks like the lights on this module are soldered LEDs. I tried prying the ends off of the temperature controls and ended up messing up the driver side climate control. Now I have the heat going full force on the drivers side. So tomorrow I'll be calling junk yards to find a used module. It looks like a new one is over $125.
  • fireoo7fireoo7 Posts: 6
    i had same problem 01 sub changed ac tensioner and belt from dealer problem did not go away bought 3 diffrent belts until i bought auto zone belt 377k4 rattling went away . rattling noise is coming from the ac tensioner hitting the trans oil line or the mounting bolts look under truck and take off front cover has 5 bolts and have engine run at 1500rpm and you will see the problem check to see if the tensioner is not broken
  • axle916axle916 Posts: 2
    Arrie,

    Thank you for your reply. I had my vehicle put on DX computer twice both came up the same result. The dealer may in fact put to me. I had get engine fix so I could get smog-ed. I agree some dealers sometimes take advamntge of customers or have ill trained techinics that don't no what they are doing.
  • magyvermagyver Posts: 3
    Mine is an 01'Suburban and I cut out around 97 MPH
  • I have a 2000 Tahoe I bought it with 69000 Miles no visible oil leaks. 2 months later rear main seal leak,fixed, 2 months later same thing changed again. Then it all started sensor leak fixed, another sensor leak fixed, oil pan fixed, another sensor fixed, every sensor has been changed and it still leaks it only takes about 2 hours to spring a new leak it now has 91000 miles on a 5.3 liter. Has any one else had or ever heard of this or am I the one in a million. I want to sell it and buy a newer one but it's hard to sell a leaker.
  • I've got a 1997 Tahoe 5.7L and after driving a few other 1996 Tahoes w/ 5.7L engines I noticed they ran at about 170 degrees and at about 60 psi oil pressure. My 1997 runs at 195 degrees and at 40 psi oil. Whay the difference? I also get 9-10 mpg city when other are getting 12-14 city. I at least get 15 mpg or so on the highway, but the truck still runs hot at highway speeds. I've done many things too it recently too: replaced radiator/ alternator/ fuel filter/ plugs cap wires rotor/ thermostat/ oxygen sensors/ catalitic convertors/ muffler /ran fuel pressure diagnostic and it checked good. Whats going on? My plugs indicate that it runs lean. Do I have a leaking intake manifold gasket, or poss. a bad oil pump and/or water pump? Or is nothing wrong with this picture at all?
  • tsuami1 said: I also get 9-10 mpg city when other are getting 12-14 city.
    ___________________________________________________________
    Many thing can affect your mileage: quality of gas, the way you drive (quick stoplite starts, flooring the pedal to pass, etc) how fast you drive (usually the faster you go the less your mileage) state of engine tuneup, amount of air in tires, rear end gear ratios.......all these things affect mpg. Make sure you are not comparing apples to oranges when you compate your mpg with other vehicles.
  • I am having a similiar problem with my 2001 Chevy Tahoe, 60,000 miles, As the first published problem. At 2000 RPM or so a grinding noise comes from my engin compartment that seemes to be from a pump associated with the A.C. unit. When I turned off the AC unit the and drove the vehicle there was no noise. I brought to the local dealer and they have said the the compressor is trying to sieze up and the repair/replacement would be A WHOOPING $1700. becuase of my rear a/c. They said something like the lines need to flushed because of metal scrapes. What. If this is just a tension or spring issue that would save me a lot of money. Please Help A.S.A.P. I Live in San Antonio and its been very hot, until todays first rain in forever.
  • I had the same problem in my 2002 Tahoe, with the grinding/rattling sound when I turn on the ac. I took it to an independent garage/mechanic and he also said the same thing: I need new compressor cuz it's trying to seize up. He said the samething about the metal scraps, etc. The ac compressor belt finally just broke off and I have no ac.
    So I would like help with resolving this problem too.
  • Starultra

    I was wondering how you made out with the dead battery problem. I bought a Z71 Suburban back in 04 and have been having the same problem every since. The dealer says he can;t find the problem. Did you have any luck or answers?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    If your A/C compressor did not lock up yet you can try a very simple and low cost fix for saving it or at least extending the compressor's life.

    Go to an auto part store and buy a can of A/C compressor lubricant. It sounds like your compressor is running dry and that is why it is making noise and wants to seize up. You also need to have a service port hose to have lubricant added in the system.

    Procedure is very simple and could fix your problem. Compressor making noise kind of says it might be ready for change though.

    About metal scrap in the system it is very possible that you have metal shavings from the compressor in the system but there is a screen (at least in all cars that I have owned so far is) at the expansion valve. This very fine screen should catch pretty much all metal shavings that come from the compressor.

    The other thing that catches shavings is the dryer that is also located in the system before the evaporator coil. You want to change dryer and expansion valve at the same time if you need to replace your compressor.

    The quoted price of $1700 sounds way too high to me, but I'm used to work on these systems myself and don't even think about taking my vehicle for service like this. You just end up paying for something you don't need.

    Of course, if you are not a hands on person you may need to pay for it but I'm sure someone else will do it for much less than $1700.

    Compressor might cost a bit though but you can always find a rebuilt compressor from auto part store that is as good as a factory new one. Cost might be up from $300.

    --Arrie--
  • #81 of 86 Real world for Tahoe... by rspencer Sep 05, 2006 (11:37 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Interested in what Consumers Union, a.k.a., Consumer Reports found when they did a random dealer purchase and fuel economy test of a 2002 model year Tahoe, 5.3L, auto trans?

    CITY - 9 MPG

    Overall - 13 MPG

    I put this over here for u so u can see what is real world. U are getting real world for the 5.3L Tahoe. Your MPG is normal.

    I get about 14 MPG O/A.
  • To begin thanks to all those who responded to my post. They were helpful - thank you. In conclusion to finding out the problem and solution to the grinding noise at 2000 RPMS on my chevy tahoe, it did indeed come out to be the A/C compressor. The tensioner for the A/C unit may have created the problem originally, as it did not allow the A/C unit to run correctly. As a result my compressor began to grind, with failure emenant. The damage had already been done, so the compressor needed to be replaced. In addition, the tensioner needed to be replaced to prevent future problems, and the system did need a new filter (metal scraps, Orifice A and valve. The seem also was drained of fluid to ensure to particles got past the filter. The good part, well sort of, was that with the help of your comments I was able to have a working knowledge of the problem to discuss with repair shops and part suppliers. As a result, parts from the dealers repair estimate could have been bought from the same dealer at their commercial parts dept. for much less. Example was the compressor itself. Estimate cost $576.00 - Commercial Parts dept. cost $387.00. Same Part! I also called Part suppliers (Napa etc.) and their prices for new top end compressors were about $380.00. I told this to the service sales man and he just said "really". In summary, I took my car away from the dealer, went to a specialist with all my new knowledge, quoted prices for parts and discussed tensioners etc. After his inspection, he determined what I said above, the same as the dealer, but without all the bull such as "having rear A/C increases the price tremendouly". In fact having a rear A/C system only slightly changes the compressor unit. It does not involve two units. The final price $850.00. This saved me $900.00 from the dealers price.

    If I can help any one the all of you help me please let me know.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    dogbones,

    Thank you for letting us all know the end of your story, which was kind of a happy one when you was able to save a considerable amount of money.

    So many people posting here don't say a word about it. The trail of a problem just stops. Often it might mean (I hope) that this forum gave some help in fixing a problem but so many don't bother letting others know what really happened.

    Thanks to you!

    --Arrie--
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