Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • freezinfeetfreezinfeet Member Posts: 1
  • sasz71sasz71 Member Posts: 14
    I just learned my 2002 Tahoe has a disable system when the vehicle senses it is being stolen. Perhaps the system does not like the key you are using, esp if its a copy. Make sure you use the factory key to start and see iof that makes a differnce.
  • need411need411 Member Posts: 2
    From: need411 I didn't get any replies so I fixed it the easy way. I traded it in on a 2005 Yukon. Let the dealer or next guy figure it out. Good Luck
  • xavierherreraxavierherrera Member Posts: 4
    I noticed a few drops of water leaking from the sunroof of my new 2007 Tahoe. I took it to the dealer and they were able to reproduce the problem. I was told by the service department to be "normal" in this model as the sunroof has some kind of drainage. I tried to get an answer directly from GM and I am still waiting... Has anybody experienced similar problems?
  • harvvvharvvv Member Posts: 2
    Xavier it is not normal for any sunroof to leak. You shouldn't let them lie to you like that and demand that they fix your truck. My mom was considering getting an Armada until we found out all the trouble with the brakes. Then we decided to go with the new Tahoe and upon reviewing we are becoming very cautious in what we choose. Please keep us updated and at all costs demand that they fix your car.
  • 19tahoe9919tahoe99 Member Posts: 4
    Hi everyone-
    I have a 1999 Tahoe with 134K. I went on a 500mi round trip and returned home. The next day I tried to start the car, motor turned over very well, strong battery and voltage, but it would not fire and has not since.

    First- I had already replaced the fuel pump (and filter) with an AC Delco 3 months prior. The pump still sounded very strong, I checked the shraeder valve at the fuel rail and there appears to be plenty of fuel (50psi+).

    Next step- I checked the spark figuring something wore out. Turns out I have enough spark to arc weld with.

    Next- Poured gas in the throat (a fairly large amount) and the car sputtered to life for approx 2-3 seconds.

    Diagnosis- We figured only when we absolutely flood the injectors with fuel will the car even attempt to fire, could this mean my injectors arent openning at the correct time? If so, we thought possibly replacing the ignition control module might fix this, does that control the firing of the injectors? I know there is a test with a voltage meter to check this, but I do not know the specific test.

    Please help, any and all information would be greatly appreciated- I hate to just throw parts at a problem if someone else has a better idea!
  • ogreabroadogreabroad Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem with my Tahoe... rough idle and frequent stalling when at idle. Any help you could offer?
  • ogreabroadogreabroad Member Posts: 3
    My Tahoe is experiencing similar issues. Rough idle and frequent stalling while idling.... any help you could offer?
  • ogreabroadogreabroad Member Posts: 3
    I think I may have found a solution to the rough idle. It was as simple as a $3 can of throttle body cleaner. I took off my air intake manifold and cleaned out the valve, which was all gunked up with carbon. It is now running like a charm... thus far. I just did it a couple of hours ago, and took it on a test drive. I put my Tahoe through the paces, and through several circumstances which would normally stall it out, and it ran fine, didnt stall, and the idle sounded wonderful.
  • whitetawhiteta Member Posts: 1
    My air conditioner has been working perfectly when all of a sudden hot air began to flow from the driver's side vents. All the other vents including the back seat were emitting cold air. Any advice?
  • searaymosearaymo Member Posts: 6
    In July I was traveling down 95 in NC and with out noticing my speed on open highway, my Tahoe stumbled sort of like shutting-down. I looked at the speedometer and realized I was just under 100mph. I pressed the gas again and the thing stumbled when reaching 100. My question is, does these SUV's have some sort of governor on them?
  • 19tahoe9919tahoe99 Member Posts: 4

    Replaced the CKP- Crankshaft Positioning Sensor and the Tahoe started up immediately- HOWEVER- a new problem arose. It idled perfectly, I reved it, and turned it off again after only a minute or so since the air cleaner was off and I didnt want to suck anything bad into the engine-- BIG MISTAKE. :confuse:

    Apparently there is a Learn Procedure for new CKP's that reprograms a timing aspect in the Vehicle Controle Module. Any time you replace a CKP you need to hook up a scan tool right after so that when you start it you can run the Learn Procedure. I did not do this and now the car wont start again- when I shut off the car it erased my previous timing codes so it will not start again until it learns a new DTC code..... I had to study the manual to find all this out :sick:

    Anyways, I am soon to be back on the road again, I need to get the car to a real scan tool (I have a basic 1996+ one), but it still wont be that easy. Since the codes are erased I'll have to manually run the program, hopefully everything will work out fine--- just a WARNING to anyone else who has a similar problem-- if you change the CKP, be somewhere with a proper GM SCAN TOOL.

    Again, any input is more than welcome-- Thanks
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I replaced my Crankshaft Position Sensor and did not have any problems. And I did not need to run any re-learn process.

    By my Chevy dealer shop new crank shaft position sensor can set the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code), i.e. lit up the check engine light but even when this happens the truck will run. Re-learn will then take care of this 'false' code.

    I don't think your problem is with the crank shaft position sensor. In your earlier post you mention that you have plenty of spark and that you have plenty of fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Then when you pour fuel in the intake the engine tries to start.

    Sounds like you have fuel injecting problems, i.e. injectors are not injecting fuel in the engine. Sounds weird when you say that after changing crank shaft position sensor it started up immediately but then would not again after you shut it off. Could there be some short of loose wire connection with the crank shaft position sensor that messes up other circuitry.

    It almost sounds like your computer has gone bad as I think it controls injectors directly. That would be quite bad news as they can be costly to replace.

    Check your engine ground wiring. Make sure engine is well grounded to the vehicle body and that the ground wire from the computer is well connected to the engine.

  • altamaha_jbaltamaha_jb Member Posts: 4
    The wife's 03 Tahoe has started to lock or unlock the rear doors when it feels like it. You stop and put the vehicle in Park, they unlock.. sometimes. You then put the vehicle in gear and they lock.. sometimes. Yor press the door lock button and the either lock or unlock.. sometimes.

    Help is evidently needed.
  • 19tahoe9919tahoe99 Member Posts: 4
    Last update. Had to re-post

    Cant believe it, turned out to be a bad fuel pump after all. Even though we tested 55+ PSI at the rail, it turned out sporadic. It wasnt holding a constant pressure, so the tests we got were completely misleading. What makes it worse is that it was replaced only about 8 months ago.

    Even worse- DONT buy from "Global-Automotive" on Ebay. Stated in auction was a new AC Delco fuel pump warranteed for 1 year. After attempting to contact many times, filing with ebay, and finally contacting AC Delco, turns out he's selling counterfeit parts and its an open scam on Ebay, Delco is mounting a case against him and took my info as well as many others. Ebay will not suspend him since he generates so many sales (10,000 transactions + in about a year). So, im out my money.. and I'll have to pay more for a new pump- sucks

    Thanks for the help- Ed
  • dogbonesdogbones Member Posts: 3

    Hope I didn't take to long. Your compressor belt is comming of because of the adjustement spring. If you have the grinding noise it may be because your compressor is going out. I have heard from other writers that a lubricant can fixx this. But what a dealer is going to tell you is that you need not only replace your compressore, but also your need to replace your rear compresssor. This is wrong many times.A true mechincie will examine wheather or not enought material has gotten to your rear area. If it has not you will save nearly a thousand dollars. None the less the price the dealer charegs is much higher than a specialist.
    Check rhe price from the dealer to an auto parts store. Then ask for the dealers wholesale dept. The price will be about $200.00 Less. Part only.
  • xavierherreraxavierherrera Member Posts: 4
    I live in the desert and don't get too much rain. Last week experienced downpours and the leaking got worse to the point of getting the fabric wet. Took the car to dealership for second time and got the same answer: There is a "drip pan system" and some water will leak from the gasket to the drip pan and channel out of the car. I even poured water on another new tahoe from the lot and the same thing happened.... My car is getting excessive leaking and will be looked at again this week. I am still not convinced of this "new engineering" as I did also notice condensation of water on my windows as a result of moisture from the leakage. My recommendation DO NOT PURCHASE SUNROOF OPTION with the '07 Tahoe (Suburban, Avalanche, etc). I am very curious to see what other owners are experiencing, especially those living in temperate areas. By the way, GM still has not answered me.
  • bhtang64bhtang64 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Chevy Tahoe with 4WD and the 5.7-liter with the CSFI system. Getting a “check engine” light that is coming back with a P0300, Multi-port misfiring error code. I am having a problem getting this fixed and I am not able to pass the NJ DMV inspection. I can feel the rough idle when sitting waiting at a light or stop sign, but feels fine during regular driving and/or on the highway. To make a long story short I got a full tune-up (plugs, filters, etc.) and the # 2&4 fuel injectors replaced, but still getting the error.
    I took it to the GM dealer and they trouble shoot it to a bad fuel pressure regulator and it is leaking fuel into the # 3&5 cylinders, causing the misfire. The cost will be $800+ to replace the regulator, replace the throttle body gasket and do fuel systems flush. What I don’t understand why is it only leaking in only two of the injectors as the regulator looks centralize? It sounds like the two mentioned injectors are the parts going bad. Any advice on this matter and if it sounds like it will take care of my problem. Thank you.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    $800 ! What a rip off!

    Go buy the pressure regulator and change it yourself.

    The leak causing the problem on cylinders 3 and 5 I think means that fuel is leaking from the pressure regulator and dripping on the spark plugs around cylinders 3 and 5 causing a short on the spark plug boots and misfire. It would not make sense that due to pressure regulator going bad it would make only the injectors 3 & 5 to leak by. And a small amount of extra fuel in the cylinder would not cause a misfire anyways.

    If it is dripping externally please have the pressure regulator replaces ASAP as it is a serious fire hazard.

    Fuel system flush will not fix your problem. If it would, your vehicle now certainly would not run fine with higher speeds.

    Do you have the aluminum heat shields around spark plug boots? They can cause a spark leak to engine ground if not installed correctly. Also, old spark plug wires / boots lose their resistance over time and cause more spark leak.

    One easy trouble shooting step is to have your spark plug wires replaced. A set cost around $30 at car part stores (not dealer). Just make sure that the boots go deep enough on the plugs to minimize the spark leak. You can also replace the wires with high quality set that does not require use of the heat shields like I did. Set like this cost around $80, which is the cost of normal set from the dealer.

    Another item that could be the problem is the crank shaft position sensor. They are notorious of going bad and a rough idle is one of the symptoms. Sensor cost is about &70 or so from the dealer. To change it I think your starter motor must come down as it is located behind the motor. At least in my '04 tahoe it is.

    For the fuel system the only thing you need to do,in addition of changing bad pressure regulator, is to make sure your fuel injectors are clean. If you don't use injector cleaners in a regular basis it could be that injectors have build up deposits that do not allow a correct spray pattern and idle gets rough. With more throttle opening there is much more oxygen to burn and the injectors must open more. More open injector then woks better as the build up disturbs spray pattern less.

    Run a few tanks of fuel with injector cleaners to see if it helps. Sounds simple but this could fix the whole problem and cost you only about $10 - $15 extra. This is what I would do first (after replacing dripping fuel pressure regulator).

    About the throttle body gasket: Why do they want to change that? It certainly is not a problem source unless your throttle mounting bolts are so lose the gasket does not seal at all. I don't think that is the case.

    If you do find help for your problem based on this post or if you don't would you please post back the results. This forum does not work if the other readers can't see the end result.

    We all would appreciate that.


  • lnuttlnutt Member Posts: 3
    1999 tahoe.keep getting service engine light,last 6 months,error codes p0430,p0420,p0304,p0300,have been trouble shooting(and spending big bucks) to correct,
    new catys,muffler& exhaust
    all new filters thru outincluding fuel&trans.
    fuel presure test,ok
    new plugs,wires,cap & rotor
    trans.flushed & oil changed,and fuel cleaners used.
    get the problem at high rev on highway,(65plus) engine gets rough,light gos on, smooths out,now getting hard to start takes two trys... frustrated!!!!! local mechs,are lost!!!
    help please anyone!!!!!!! :confuse:
  • lnuttlnutt Member Posts: 3
    just got email,suggesting bad coil/ignition module,or bad pcm???? any coments,sugguestion????
    need help bad..... :sick:
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    ok, my mom's boyfrind has a 1999 tahoe with around 65,000 miles on it. on day we were driving down the road and all of a sudden the thing dies. comeletely dies, i mean all power to the vehicle. the lights went out, no power worked, and the clock on the radio reset itself. he got it to a stop, not easily but he did, and even the steering locked up???? when we coasted to a stop, he put it in park and turned the key, and it started and ran fine for the rest of the day. a few days after words it did the exact same thing, but this time when we went to start it, it cranked and tried to catch, and we got only a few revolutions out of it before it died again. the next time we tried to fire it up it ran perfectly normal. he also noted that and apm's gage dropped down to zero, and then back up to normal in a few seconds before restarting. now, i know that when most people read these posted by young kids like me, they disregard them...however, we really need help as this is getting worse and worse. it is also out hunting vehicle so we cant really have a car thats gonna die driving down the road and have no steering or brakes...YIKES!! so, please if you have any ideas, or have had this hapen to you, write back! i'm kinda thinking it might be the main brain, but its too new for that
    thanks in advance!
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Surprised that no one weighed in on why you were going 98 mph or whatever in the first place. I'm sure there's a good excuse like someone's dying, having a baby, etc.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Sounds like your battery might be shorting out.

  • tsuami1tsuami1 Member Posts: 5
    right. This could very well be a bad connection at the positive battery terminal. Same thing happening on my 1997 Tahoe. Very easy fix thankfully. Pull your positive cable from the battery and clean all the contacts with baking soda and steel wool/sandpaper. And if you havent done it yet and it happens again just open the hood and move the positive cable around and walla!
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    oh wow thats way easier than the problem i was thinking of! thanks i'll have him try that right away! BUT, how does a bad connection result in the car dying while driving, as the alternator is what supplies power to the electrics when driving??? also, wouldnt a bad connction result in the car not turning over at all?
  • tsuami1tsuami1 Member Posts: 5
    not exactly. The alternator will only run for a little bit before dying. It needs to work in conjunction w/ the battery from what I understand. Also the connection may not be fully blocked but only partially. For example during a few episodes my lights would turn on and everything else but the starter wouldn't engage. At first my mechanic thought it was the starter until we determined that not enough juice was flowing to the starter in the first place(STARTERS ARE AMP HUNGRY)!! Hope this helps.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    ok. he checked all the conections and they were all very secure, and the points are clean and prestine. it actually did it again a little while ago, on our way home from kung fu. it was really scary cuz evetything went dead, and it was only semi-lit with street lamps. when we finally came to a stop, he shut everything to the off position and started it, ran for a sec or 2 then slowly dies. this is the exact thing his bronco did when the computer went, ran then dies. but the next time we tried, fired right back up w/ no problem. however, once the engine is running, a cars battery does nothing but get charged, which is why a person can take the battery out when the engine is running (which have to do a few times.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    But if your battery is shorting out it will consume all power the alternator makes.

    When you say that everything goes dead when the car stalls, what do you mean by that?

    If everything electrical dies then it almost for sure means your battery shorts out. For example, if your radio dies at the same time why would the problem be the cars computer? The radio has nothing to do with that.

  • alston28alston28 Member Posts: 97
    I have a 2005 Chevrolet Tahoe LS. The side mirrors don't have the turn signals. I'd like to add them. Are the mirror "holders" already wired for them, so that all you have to do is attach a mirror with the turn signal and maybe plug it in? Or would additional wiring be required? Thanks.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Hey guys,

    I have 2003 Tahoe Z71 with 99000 miles on it. I have kept it in GREAT condition, oil changed every 3-4k miles, all the services done on time, tires rotated etc etc.

    In the past 2 weeks my car has been idling rough, almost shaking at about 300-500rpm. It usually only happens when I have it in Park or Neutral. Recently it does it when I'm stopped at a light or just started the car and waiting to warm up a bit.

    I brought it in to the dealership (yeah, I know) and they said it was the Throttle Positioning Sensor so they replaced it, in addition to all the spark plugs, air/fuel filter and spark plug wires. 2 days after getting it back, it started doing it again.

    My check engine light came on the other day . They ran the computer and found the following codes:

    What is up here? PLEASE, someone help.

    Thanks y'all
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I think P0171 and P0174 indicate lean condition in bank one and bank 2 oxygen sensors, i.e. it sees too much oxygen in the exhaust.

    P0300 is a misfire code and perhaps could be caused by the condition setting the two first codes.

    Could be a MAF sensor problem, i.e. mass air flow sensor sees less air flow than actually enters in the engine. This can happen when the sensing wires in the MAF get dirty.

    MAF can be cleaned but I'm not sure what to use. Them small sensing wires are so tiny. Perhaps you want to replace the MAF. It cost about $150. I replaced mine as I think I had a intake air temperature problem, which is built in the MAF.

  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    when the car dies, absolutely wverything goes dead. the guages drop to zero, all the electrics reset. but i have one question, does the battery cause the car to start, then slowly die. let me detail that one, when it starts, the engine makes a few revolutions then slowly drops back down to zero. in other words, when it would start normaally, the engine would rev to 900 rpm, then settle to an idle a little lower than that. when it does it thing, it revs up to that point, then descends down to zero. i'll agree with you that the radio has nothing to do with the main computer, but this dying is what happened to my mom's old bronco, w/o the elictrics goin nuts.
    oh wait, i can think of a way the the computer has to do wiht the radio...if the brain controlls all the electrics, and the radio is electric, wouldnt that mean that if the computer is messing up then the electronics mess up???
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I don't believe the radio is in any way controlled by the car's computer.

    Also, I don't think driving lights are either. There are other 'brains' for these.

    If I was you I would get a new battery just to rule it out as a possible problem source. A good battery can be purchased for about $60 so it is not a huge loss even if it would turn out not to be the problem.

    Batteries can really mess up the car and be intermittent problem. They are also difficult to diagnose when it is an internal problem with the battery.

    Of course the problem could be the PCM but it sounds weird that all electronics goes out when the car stalls. Problem with the PCM should not kill all electric power.

  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    I checked out the MAF's and found one at Napa for $140 (see below). Maybe I'll just replace that and see what happens.

    The guys at the dealership just keep telling me that they're "doing some research on it".

    Any hints on replacing one?

    Any other thoughts, feel free to keep 'em coming.
    Thanks for your help man. 'preciate it!

    Item#: NECMAF68411
    Price: $140.99
    tax and shipping not included
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    To change the MAF you only need a screw driver as it is held in place with two hose clamps. First remove the flexible hose from engine side then remove the MAF from the duct of air filter box. The sensor has three holes that probably are for mounting screws in some other model vehicles than mine but at least in my '04 Tahoe the MAF is fastened with a hose clamp on both sides of it.

    Before you go to buy one you could try to clean it as it is very easy to remove from the intake air duct. Buy some spray grease solvent with no oil in it. I guess they are alcohol base chemicals, the kind electrical component workers use. Sorry I don't know any brand names here.

    As you can see in the picture you attached those 3 small wires are so tiny you would not want to actually touch them.

    The built-in intake air temperature sensor is that 'hump' on the rim at 5 o'clock position in the picture (right at wire harness connector).

    The problem you have could also be temperature reading problem as it together with MAF signal tells the PCM how much oxygen flow you have going in the engine. If temperature is reading way too high it keeps your engine running lean.

    The problem could also be bad connection at the wire harness causing wrong readings. Simple disconnect and re-connect maneuver can also help.

    For diagnosing these issues I purchased a Car Chip from Auto Zone. It is a data logger you connect to the OBD II port in the car and you can record some variables as you drive and then analyze it in a PC computer. I think it cost about $100. For example the intake air temperature is one of the variables you can monitor.

  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    By chance are you using a lo-restriction, oiled air filter aka K&N? GM recommends against these as they tend to "coke" the MAF during the cleaning (burn-off) cycle.
  • jmalikjmalik Member Posts: 10
    Hi there. I own a 2003 Tahoe LT. I LOVE the 20" chrome wheels available on the 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe, and i inquired with a local chevy dealer (the parts dept) and he said that in order to fit 20" wheels on my 2003, I would need a suspension/lift kit upgrade, total you're looking at $7K (he wasn't trying to sell me on it, he was basically saying it wasn't worth it). He said that the maximum wheel size a 2003 can take is 17". Anyone know anything different about this?
  • jmalikjmalik Member Posts: 10
    73shark - Can you please elaborate - what do you mean by "coke" - what are the implications of coking an MAF?. I have a 2003 Tahoe and I'm considering a K&N and cold air induction kit. Thanks,
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the tips. I'll try taking it out this weekend and clean it with the spray grease solvent (no oil).

    Let you know what happens.

  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    yea i kinda thought about that electrical thing lol...i dont even see how i would have thought that

    but is it impossible for the battery to be shorting out the computer, and possibly destroy it?
    also, if say it wasnt the battery, what else could it be?
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Did you replace the battery yet?

  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    well not yet no
    i told him he needs to do it very quickly
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Periodically the computer causes a hi current (burn-off) to go thru the wire in the MAF to burn off any contaminants that may have got on it. Oil from an air filter causes more contaminants to stick to it and when heated, carbonize (coke) and make matters worse. GM recommends that oiled air filters not be used for this reason.

    Here's an alternative:

    Be aware that most of these CAI kits state up to 10+ hp gain, the ones I've seen that document it show the gain at hi RPM where most of our driving is not done.
  • jmalikjmalik Member Posts: 10
    Good info 73 Shark, I'll check it out (the true flow)...many thanks
  • rspencerrspencer Member Posts: 63
    Oiled air-filter elements were first used in the 19th Century on locomotives. Who(which)supplier is using this technique?
    Carryover of oil mist...small droplet sizes in the 1-10 micron diameter size has always been a problem using this technology.
  • iccyman001iccyman001 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 98 2 door tahoe that for now i want to squeeze some 33`s into until i have enough money to do my full lift and tires i was wondering which would be smarter .... crank up my torsion bars or just get the leveling kit any help would be much appreciated
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    K&N for one.
  • sdoo25sdoo25 Member Posts: 25
    We live in FL and have had no problems w/our sunroof during the summer rainy season on our '07 Tahoe.
  • sasz71sasz71 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2002 Tahoe Z71 with 20" American Racing rims and 285 50 Yocahoma tires. They fit fine with no lift.
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