Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    I believe that GM took this feature out of the 05 versions. My 04 does reset the seat to match the Key FOB used to unlock the vehicle.
  • dschmidt2dschmidt2 Member Posts: 1
    My tahoe sputters and coughs when I romp on the gas. It idles fine and will run but cuts out and stalls when you need to give it some gas. I have replaced the MAP sesor and C.Converters. I have also tested the TPS and my fuel pressure is 50. Any information will be greatly appreciated
  • gwhitacregwhitacre Member Posts: 1
    As you all know, there is no entering destination info while on the go with these systems. good idea if the driver is solo, but on a trip with a navigator it's a pain in the rear. anyone know the in's & out's enough to bypass this safety? Have seen backdoor menu access codes for other manufacturers units, but not Chevy.
  • ksartainksartain Member Posts: 2
    I have a persistent problem that maybe someone can help me with (local dealers have not been able to troubleshoot). I have had problems with voltage variation on my Z71. IN the morning when the battery is a bit drained from the start - I run at 15-16 volts for 20-30 minutes. After it warms up it will settle down to 14-15. However - I will get a periodic swing up to 19 volts, which brightens the lights and shuts down the air bag circuit (based on the air bag light coming on) and also tends to boil my battery. This will last for 30 seconds or so. Then it will swing back.

    I have not been able to tie it to any specific thing (A/C, etc.). The only RELIABLE way to stop it from doing it is to rev the engine reel high. that arrests the symptom for the moment, and voltage returns to normal. I have tried checking wires, etc. I am on my third alternator/voltage regulator on advice from shops. During the first two changes, it did not happen for 3 months after the new one was installed, and then it starts again. On this one (a new one NOT a rebuild) it began right away.

    Could this be a broken down ground wire? So by revving the engine I am increasing the potential and jumping some small breakage in the wire? Visible inspection does not show any broken wires, etc. Has anyone else seen this - or do you have any good ideas on troubleshooting I could do. I would greatly appreciate any insights. Thanks!!
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Very weird problem I must say.

    The fact is though that the only thing in the car that can produce higher than 12 V is the alternator. The battery can not hold more than 12 V. This is the logical reason why you have been told to change the alternator and / or voltage regulator.

    After three changes it makes me think that those parts are not to blame though. What would be the odds to get three new parts that all are bad?

    How about the car's comtuter? I don't know myself but does it have anything to do with alternator voltage regulation?

    What about the battery itself? Have you checked the water level in it? If it is low could it actually loose charge as you drive and then the alternator must put out too high voltage? Perhaps not...

    It might be a bad connection in the regulator sensing wires. By this I mean that the wires that connect the voltage regulator to battery voltage could have partial connection so that the voltage regulator sees lower voltage than what the battery actually has. This could lead to over voltage at alternator as it would 'think' voltage is lower than it actually is. You mentioned yourself the ground wire but it could be the other 'hot' wire too.

    Where to look for these wires I have no Idea but there is I think four wires in the harness connection to the alternator's control port. The thick red wire is the charging wire to battery.

    Just trying to give some ideas to look at...

  • hitektexhitektex Member Posts: 2
    I have an 2003 with the same problem.... You know GM is aware of the problem. Probably going to take a major accident with loss of life and huge damage suit to get them to check it out. Cost of doing business, don't you know.
  • hitektexhitektex Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 Tahoe Z71 for the second time has developed a problem where the keyless entry will not unlock the back doors or rear door. This is really frustrating. It will unlock the drive/passenger doors.
  • 2001teeztahoe2001teeztahoe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 tahoe and took it to pep boys, they told me that my throttle body assembly had to be replaced, something about how it idles, i haven't gotten it replaced yet, and at the time my ac was acting funny. A/C is fine now,but it still idles rough. I had my rear brakes changed because of squealing, and they still squeal very loudly. On top of that tonight my car started to make this humming/vibrating noise and won't stop it's been doing it for about two hours now after i took the keys out of the ignition. What's wrong with my car!!! :confuse: :cry:
  • billfanbillfan Member Posts: 4
    I just found rust inside the rear hatch down at the bottom. The paint is bubbled on the seam. Anybody else have this problem?
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    They fixed mine first time I brought it in. no questions. From what I understand it is NOT a safety issue. Just an annoying feeling in the steering wheel.
    Even with the high gas prices we love our Tahoe. Dropped of 5 kids at school today. Really need to think about painting it yellow. Are stop signs an accessory?

  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    I just found rust inside the rear hatch down at the bottom. The paint is bubbled on the seam. Anybody else have this problem?

    Yep! first, its not rust. The rear hatch it aluminum. whole thing weighs about 25 pounds (without glass, hinges and plastic). We just had ours replaced at no cost two weeks ago. They gave us a whole new door and new paint job.

    What I heard from the bodyshop manager is that aluminum can have corrosion issues in some cases. I saw to old one and there really wasn't a serious corrosion issue other than the paint not sticking well. Even checked out the inside and it looked like new(plastic and latch removed so I could see down to the seems).

    The body shop (Chevy dealer) took about 3 or 4 weeks to get it OKed by GM, but stood behind it 100%. :)

  • gregarthgregarth Member Posts: 1
    I just traded my '03 Z71 for a '06 Z71. I love it so far. However, I can't stand the little seat belt warning that comes up on the information center. Is there a way to disable this? :confuse:
  • mudntrukmudntruk Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Tahoe Z71, with the navigation system in the dash. I was wondering if there is a relay or program that i can buy that can enable the front navigation screen to play DVDs. It already is a plasma or LCD screen, I just want it to function as a DVD player as well..... Can anyone help me? :confuse:
  • mudntrukmudntruk Member Posts: 2
    I have a '05 Tahoe Z71 and I feel as if it is lacking some power. I just put dual exhaust on it... Are there any more aftermarket parts that will add some power, without voiding the warranty? Where's that factory supercharger when you need it?
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I have a '04 Tahoe LT.

    Had a lot of issues with gas mileage. I have posted in Tahoe forum a lot about it.

    The other issue was lack of power like when getting to go from stop light or other stand still. This came and went but in the end of it was always very powerless. Clearly something was wrong. If the engine sometimes is very powerful and sometimes (most of the time) very powerless there must be a problem of some kind, right?

    Long story short, after changing almost all sensors I think I finally found the real problem, the intake manifold leak. GM has this issue on their own TechLink page, which I included with one of my posts. This GM Tech Link page tells about an issue with the intake manifold gasket of L59 engines (the Z engine). I went to check mine and found that all intake manifold bolts were LOOSE.

    To make things right I purchased a new set of intake manifold gaskets and installed them following bolt tightening instructions in a Haynes manual for the Chevy trucks up to year 2002.

    After changing the gaskets my truck behavior changed 100%. I now get really constant gas mileage at 18.2 gpm at interstate speed of 75 mph. It repeats really well what it did not do before. I can also see the difference in the end of tail pipe. It has that correct light brown/gray color, black disappeared and has nor come back since I fixed this about 6 weeks ago.

    Get-up-and-go went through the roof compared to prior the gasket change. I assume your main complait with lack of power is with the feel when you start from stand still?

    My explanation why gasket change helped my Tahoe is that with leaking gasket intake manifold pressure was too high at idle speed and when I stepped on gas pressure raised way too high and retarded engine timing too much leading to lack of power. One clear sign of this was that when I step on gas and let the car accelerate power suddenly kicked in after engine rews went high enough. Now that kick comes in almost immediately.

  • jjuarezjjuarez Member Posts: 3
    Love my relatively old LT. Have been having trouble with the security system from time to time.(shuts the fuel off to engine) It seems to reset itself after a while...but meantime I'm stuck where ever I happen to be when I try to start it. Never happens in mid-stream, just at start-up, and at random. I really hate this at the pumps or on my way to work... Please help if you can. Can this be disabled?Called the factory...Ya, that helped. Take it to the dealership and pay a arm and a leg just to hook it up... Nah, I'll take my chances asking real folks for the answers... So, what's the key to ending this little nitemare? Thanks in advance...--JJ-- :mad:
  • jjuarezjjuarez Member Posts: 3
    I forgot to add that when the dash light burns steady, the system is disabled but the truck starts and runs fine(this is comforting), and at times it will come on mid-stream for no obvious reason. The comforting part is that I know it will start when the light is steady. It flashes when the system is enabled and the truck I love must sit, undisturbed for at least 20 mins. according to the guy at the factory. If I had a dime for every time I've been given a time-out by this Tahoe, I could finance my next tank of gas....--JJ-- :blush:
  • soupraidersoupraider Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 2004 LT Tahoe. When the radio is on there is an extremely annoying whirring noise. It increases when the car is accelerated but goes away when the radio is turned off. Does anyone have an explanation for this or has it happened to you? Should I take it in to be serviced as it is still under warranty?? Any advice will be most appreciated.

  • forrgumpforrgump Member Posts: 1
    For the second time upon entering and starting my Tahoe I have received a "service 4WD" message. Additionally, the shift indicator light would be in the 4WD low position. I tried to put it back into 2WD or 4WD high without success. I drove the car down the street and the transmission did not seem to be in 4WD low, however it did act a bit funny. After driving and stopping for awhile, I went back to the truck, started it and it was back in 2WD. I drove to a store, stopped, shopped and re-started the truck after I was finished. Once again I received the error message and the truck was back in 4WD low.
    I plan on taking the vehicle to the dealer on Monday. The last time this occurred I was told it was a "software issue" with the on board computer.
    Has anyone had this problem?
  • crownkingtaxicrownkingtaxi Member Posts: 1
    Yes, we drive about 60 miles a week on a dirt road 6 miles of it is 4wd. Our Tahoe is a 05 Z71 with 4,000 miles on it. Last weekend the left rear tire was torn open by a fist size rock (the off road package comes with so called aggressive tires just dont hit any small rocks) I then had the wonderful experience of using the jack kit. I wouldn't try using it on my honda a complete pice of *&%$##*****. Then the DVD player began skipping and in between boulders the XM radio cuts out. Sunday night return trip I selected 2WD from 4WL there was a very loud clunk and the service 4X4 light came on it would not allow me to return to 4X4. Ouch this is sounding very negative, I really do like the car. It handles very well pulls trailers great ( 4.11 gears) all though there is a very distinct whining sound from the transmission low speed through highway 5-85mph. The dealer says its normal? ">
  • bdcolburnbdcolburn Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem. There is some contact switches on the inside door frame. When you open the door tahe some steel wole or scotch-bright pad and cleen both sides of the contact switch. This fixed my doors.
  • flybeauxflybeaux Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Tahoe Z71. It has the factory 17 rims on it. I want to replace them with 33x12.50 R15. My bud has a 99 Tahoe Z71. He is running the same wheel/tire packg. He has had 2 tranny rebuilds. He also pulls a 24' cigarette boat. My concern is wear and tear on my tranny. Do not wanna have future probs w/that.Any ifo would be appreciated.
  • jackdajackda Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 z71 chevy
    end i wont to install aside step bed
    if somewon know were i can by it
    thenks benny
  • mhusk28mhusk28 Member Posts: 1
    were is the module on a 96 taho and how do you replace is.. i was driving down the road then all of a sudden it lost power acts like it wants to turn owver.. one of our shade tree machanics said it was the module.. i don't know what it is.. .. i am lost can anyone help me
  • joeew2002joeew2002 Member Posts: 1
    just curious if you found the problem, my 99 does the same thing and I don't know why.
  • avakyanavakyan Member Posts: 3
    Could this be the steering column issue? I have an '01 Z71 and I have the thumping noise coming from the steering column. A dealer originally fixed this problem at about 25,000 miles by replacing lube within the steering assembly, and he explained that when this lube ages/dries/evaporates (?) such sounds are normal. Now, at 59,000 I am having the same sounds again. If this is your problem, the sound clearly comes from the front, and may also be accompanied by steering wheel movement - i.e. - coupled with such movemen: when wheel moves after hitting bump, thumping noise occurs. Just a thought. I had no issues with torsion bars on my Tahoe, and had them 'turned up' for an inch of additional clearance over 33" tires.
  • avakyanavakyan Member Posts: 3
    I put 33" tires on my 17" rims (2001 Z71) and it rubbed occasionally on inner fenders. By lifting the front end by so much as an inch, the problem was resolved. Tires rub rarely in rear on inner fenders at maximum suspension action, but this is minimal and no damage occurs. The real problem with bigger tires is the gearing: I lost acceleration and am now forcing the gearbox to downshift regularly when towing. Pulling an empty enclosed trailer weighing just about 1,000 pounds at 75MPH, I got 10MPG because gearbox kept going to 3rd gear to maintain speed at anything but a downward slope. The tires I got are BFG All Terrain KOs - a great off-road tire, and very quiet as well. I will be pulling a boat soon too, and am now concerned about this re-gearing of my Tahoe via the tires.
  • avakyanavakyan Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Z71 Tahoe with 59,000 miles, and for the last 20,000 miles or so I've been having an intermittent problem starting in 1st gear. Always on level ground, with no extra load, what happens is when applying throttle to accelerate from a stop the gearbox appears to be in 2nd gear - laboring to start accelerating. Then, within a second or two it slams down into 1st gear and accelerates normally. This happens every few weeks but two dealers have said they can't deal with such issues and that I should wait until something 'serious' occurs with gearbox that they can diagnose. I am concerned as this seems like a warning sign about gearbox that will have problems. Any ideas? I have extended warranty at least...
  • kraftykrafty Member Posts: 1
    I cannot figure out what the plastic piece with the slots in it between the liftgate window and the rear window is called If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated!!
  • tpeacocktpeacock Member Posts: 4
    Hey, I have dual exhaust on my '02 Tahoe, and the power seems to be fine. If you get the engine checked and there is not something wrong with it, then I would suggest that you buy a cold air intake or a K&N air filter or something like that, which will increase the air intake into the engine, adding horsepower. Mine is at about 300 with the exhaust, and you will probably get about 15 or 20 more with just the air filter, and maybe 25 or 30 with the air intake. Good luck
  • tpeacocktpeacock Member Posts: 4
    My 02 has had problems with that, just vibrations though. It only has 31000 on it, but just take yours to the dealership and get them to grease the steering column. I don't know other that that.
  • tpeacocktpeacock Member Posts: 4
    Also, i was wondering how the car did with the torsion bars cranked up. Ive been thinking about it for mine, and i was wondering if 285s would fit well with and inch or so extra from that. Thanks
  • tpeacocktpeacock Member Posts: 4
    They call that peice the vent I think, you can get replacements online
  • molarmanmolarman Member Posts: 1
    Anyone give me a clue if there is a fuse that controls the power seats to the driver side and both driver and passenger heated seats? Just stopped working yesterday but my passenger side power seats work fine.

    Thanks in advance,

  • chella_herechella_here Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 tahoe 4x4 once it reaches the normal temp it will sputter and then shut off but it starts up right away. It only does it once it warms up. I have changed the fuel filter, the mass air flow sensor, check the spark plugs and wires even did a gas treatment. Does anyone know what else it could be or what else I should try
  • steelesteele Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my 1997 Tahoe. Out of the blue it just quit while driving home. Changed a fuse and it ran about 10 minutes - just enough to get home. Somebody suggested that the security is messing it up. It blows fuses just as fast as you can put them in.
    Anybody have any ideas?">link title
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Check / change crank shaft position sensor. If this sensor goes bad it directly causes problems with engine operation, like really rough run or shut off. It also gets really hot with engine oil warming up. I assume yours is mounted in the side of the engine just above starter motor like in my '04 Tahoe.

    Another one to check is the MAP sensor. In my Tahoe it is located on top of the intake manifold under a plastic bracket.

  • knon2000knon2000 Member Posts: 2
    I am also having the problem with the driver side power seat and both heated seats not working? I was wondering if you have gotten it fixed yet? Or if you have had any replys yet either.
    Thanks, makes me feel better that I am not the only person scratching his head on this problem.
  • knon2000knon2000 Member Posts: 2
    Found the problem with this. It would appear that the circuit breaker is tripping on this, and not resetting. The circuit breaker is located in the black box underneath the steering wheel by the brake. Just remove the cover, and pull the silver 25A breaker, and re-insert it. For some reason, that resets it, and presto, it is working. That doesn't explain it being tripped in the first place, but at least it is an easy fix.
  • tahoe052tahoe052 Member Posts: 2
    My Driverside Seat will do it all but go up and down. I tried doing what knon2000 said to do but not working. Any other ideas???

    I pulled the Silver fuse 25 and the 30 just for grins...nothing...

    It works once in awhile...
  • tahoe052tahoe052 Member Posts: 2
    My Driverside Seat will do it all but go up and down. Any other ideas???

    I pulled the Silver fuse 25 and the 30 just for grins...nothing...

    It works once in awhile...
  • mahincmahinc Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a used Tahoe at under book last week :surprise: . Has 5.3 Vortec FFV. Was running fine when I drove off the lot. Filled it with BP Silver 89 Octane gas and weather got to sub 20F. Now Engine light is on solid while driving under around 35MPH. Starts flashing after that. Starts up fine. Runs fine for around 5 seconds at 1000RPM then drops down to 500 and idles and runs rough. Milage reading has gone down in all regimes. Had the car checked out at Chevy dealer before purchase and they found no red flags. Any help or info would be appretiated?
  • obxdrumminobxdrummin Member Posts: 4
    Hey....I have the very same problem with my 2003 chevy tahoe. I bought it used and have had it for 5 mo's. It is a very slight slip that that were feeling. Its like you said, it hesitates at the end of the shift then it goes in. I took mine to a tranny mech. and he said that it might be a valve thats stick'n in there. Est. cost...$450.
    But he was just guessing...Said he would have to go in to check to make sure. Either way...sounded expensive.
    Also... he said that its a common problem wit these trannys. Anyone else with this annoying problem????
  • obxdrumminobxdrummin Member Posts: 4
    Heyyy....Somebody with my problem as well.

    The quick temp. fix to this is to give the center console a good ole' beatn'. Hit the back side of the console (at the foldable cup holders) firmly a couple of times and that should stop the whinning thru the speakers.

    If you haven't already found this remedy.

    I notice this post is fairly old. If you found a permanent fix, let me know....

    But i think the BOSE amp is shot and thats where it is located. Cost for the amp....about 300 dollars... Installation cost ???
  • obxdrumminobxdrummin Member Posts: 4
    I have a 03' HOE with 82000. Every now n then, my power steering looses assist.

    When parked, and if im braking, the steering assist is not there. Its like trying to steer a tractor.....very hard.

    It also makes a noise when I'm turning hard thru a corner....I can feel some resistance in the steering thru the turn...

    Is this normal??? I've read somewhere were this was ok...It just doesn't seem like a 40000 dollar truck should be doing this...

    Anyone with the same proble...or suggestions???
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    What trouble codes does the computer have?

    Codes can be read by a simple OBD II scanner that you can buy for about $100. Very good tool to have. Pays itself back fast. Dealer ask about $80 just to check codes.

    You can also have codes read by a car parts store for free. At least I know AutoZone has this service.

    Have codes checked and post again.

    A quick guess about your problem since you mention that temperature went below 20 is that your intake air temperature sensor might be bad. If it is it takes to change the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) as the sensor is built into it. This is approximately $200 part.

  • bandity82bandity82 Member Posts: 1
    There is a Chevy recall out on your Tahoe that will correct this problem.....NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 05V163000..........

    Recall Date:
    FEB 04, 2004



    Hope this helps ya.
  • brownbearbrownbear Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Z71 Tahoe and noticed what sounds like a noisy fan belt on idle. It seems to me that the engine should idle a little quiter. I lubricated the belts, but that didn't help. The belts look like they are good shape. Anyone else have this problem?
  • pat36pat36 Member Posts: 1
    Hi - I noticed yesterday (and today), while my 2002 Tahoe was idling, it smelled like burning popcorn from the exhaust... almost like a burning cigarette smell. Does anyone know what that could be? I don't recall running over anything, except for a little horse manure in the road yesterday, but it should all have washed away after driving through all the rain puddles today. Thanks for your help!
  • wgplapwgplap Member Posts: 1
    I experienced a similar problem with a 2004 Avalance Z71 shortly after buying the unit. Took it to my Chevy dealership and asked what they thought that it was. The serice advisor told me that Chevy had sent out a recall, which had to do with the amount of space between the skid plates around the exhaust. They ordered the parts No charge and within a couple of hours, these components were replaced. Have not had a problem since replacement.
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