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I have GPS on the PC which shows the actual speed so I do not find it necessary to recalibrate the meter. Someday I'll put 40" ground hawgs on which will really through it off in the other direction.
The wheel size has very little to do with the overall size of the tire. You can have a 20 inch wheel and have a smaller (diameter & width) tire.
Go over to tirerack.com look up the size of tire that came stock on your truck - write down the diameter and width. Compare it to a 20 inch size tire - find one that is close.
Just as an example - a 265 70 17 Goodyear Wrangler HP is 31.7 inches in diameter (tall) a 265 50 20 is only 30.5 inches.
Best advise is to NEVER take the advise of anyone at the dealership.
any suggestions?
any ideas?
You ask, Do they have to drop the tank to replace the filter? You betcha... Do you have to buy a new pump to replace the filter? Oh Yeah...'ya sure do. It's a unitized assembly...yuk,yuk,yuk...
Who does this help? Me...no. You...no. The dealer...ye$$$$. GM...ye$.
Unfortunately, the cost of replacing the new type filter at a Chevy dealer is about $800-$1000...used to be $120 installed in the previous model design.
Careful buying dirty gas ya'all...it could cost you more than you know!
Cost savings? Not sure how. A chance for the company to make money for dealerships? You betcha. Same thing as the redesigned headlight assemblies on the 07+ Tahoe/Suburban/Avalanches. You can do it yourself, but it's not easy and is time consuming, versus the 5 or 10 minutes it took to change a bulb in the previous models..
Ownership is not a prerequisite to participating in our discussions and I advise against provocative imputation.
tidester, host
Are you the one who does not drive a Chevy Suburban or Tahoe?
Ownership is not a prerequisite to participating in our discussions and I advise against provocative imputation.
It is confusing and misleading to have Avalanche information posted as Tahoe information on the Tahoe forum. Why not limit the Tahoe forum to Tahoe info?
I don't believe it was posted "as Tahoe information" but, yes, certainly the emphasis should be and is on the Tahoe. My commment concerned "you don't even drive a Tahoe" type statements.
tidester, host
That would deprive the rest of us of valuable information. If you keep the conversation here then we can all learn and benefit from it.
tidester, host
When pressed he claims it's actually an Avalanche. If he states that his posting on the TAHOEboard is based on his experience from an AVALANCHE...no problem. But if he does not...then who can be sure what it means or where it came from?
Message #2051 Re: Why are you surprised? [rspencer] by jerrywimer Oct 20, 2006 (7:51 am)
I can and do hold vehicle drivers responsible for the fuel economy of the vehicles they are ... enough to be compared fruitfully (pun intended). If I was talking about a Ford F-150 versus the Tahoe you'd have a better point. And if you didn't know that the Suburban is basically a stretched Tahoe, you've been out of the states for awhile. Check out Chevrolet's web site to ...
Message #2047 Re: Why are you surprised? [bk777] by jerrywimer Oct 20, 2006 (2:33 am)
Yes. It was weird. Mainly annoyed with folks that aren't just skeptical, but nearly offensive in ... etc., evidently) My disclaimers were to make sure everyone knew I wasn't talking about a Tahoe, but a close relative of the Tahoe (my 07 Av), and that I know that I tend to be above ... But like it or not, the current Suburban (and the past several generations) are not much more than stretched length Tahoes (hence heavier) with a few more available drivetrain options (2500 series, ...
Message #2033 Re: Why are you surprised? [rspencer] by jerrywimer Oct 18, 2006 (10:06 am)
Nice try at changing the subject. The 07 Av is the virtual twin in drivetrain with the Tahoe, and nearly so in the body (based on Suburban- stretched Tahoe, if you will). So my observations are valid. More importantly, I've included ...
CNN Money
Seems to me than an Avalanche owner has plenty to share with the Tahoe crowd.
I've stopped mentioning anything about what kind of vehicle I own. Likewise, if the discussion isn't concerning something I know something about or something shared in common between the vehicle I own and the ones under discussion here, I don't participate.
steve says, "The Avalanche's interior - its entire body except the bed, in fact - is shared with the Chevrolet Tahoe SUV."
The midgate portion of the Avalanche's body is an obvious major difference.
You might want to avoid CNN and go to the product source...to avoid making such inaccurate statements in the future.
I feel that if you have facts, experience and can bring enlightenment to the discussion then, by all means, please do so.
tidester, host
___________________________________________________________
Seems to me the Tahoe is a mini-Suburban, not a stretched tahoe as the Suburban has been in the GM lineup a lot longer than any Tahoe model.
Anybody experience the problem before?
Thanks
1) I have no knowledge or experience with whatsoever, or
2) is something not shared in common for the three vehicles I've mentioned (Tahoe, Suburban, Avalanche).
For example, I haven't bothered posting anything concerning the water drainage system (or problems therewith) in the Avalanche, since it's unique. Nor have I bothered talking about the bedpanels, tailgate, or other such Avalanche-specific items. Likewise I don't chime in if folks have questions concerning the (optional?) trizone automatic climate control system in the Tahoe and Suburban (Av only gets a dual zone setup), the optional rear seat heaters (second row only) or power-flip seats, power liftgate, etc..
But things like the drivetrain (engine, transmission, fuel tank / pump / filter), frame, suspension, most bodywork, windshield, side windows, most electrical items, most electronic goodies (especially engine-management related or audio system related), THOSE are ALL nearly or completely identical between the three vehicles (moreso for the Av / Suburban the the Sub / Tahoe or Av / Tahoe, in fact!). So those are fair game, and I not only learn a lot from the posts others make here about their vehicles, but I occasionally have the ability to contribute.
So again, please take the childish namecalling and other such nonsense off these forums. You may not like what I have to say, but what I've just said above (and earlier) are FACTS and can easily be backed up by simple searches using tools such as Google, or even bothering to talk to your local GM dealership, service department, and parts department. (Also why the current TSB on flexfuel vehicles applies to my Av as well as your Tahoe / Suburbans with the SAME drivetrain and engine!)
I have a '03 Z-71 with the same proplem. I read the lean mixture codes, changed the plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor, and the problem came right back. I then brought it to the shop where they replaced the MAF sensor; the same problem returned. I have a K & N filter, but no problems for around 10,000 miles when I bought the vehicle with the air filter installed. What did you do to resolve this issue? Any help would be appreciated!
Abe
Diagnosing a bad MAF
(You have to scroll down and skip a page to finish the article)
Recently I noticed that while I was on my way home a Red light was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi. It was dark so I couldn't see what this red light meant; the next day I checked it out. Apparently the Red light is for Neutral.
My Transfer could not have been in Neutral since I was driving and drove for over 40 miles. I did flash my High Beams on and off a couple of times prior to getting on the road to check them out. Could this have something to do with why the Red Transfer Case light for Neutral was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi?
When I started it back up the next day the Red neutral light was off and the Orange 2Hi light was on. I did not notice any unfamiliar noises or driving condition. I have driven several hundred miles since and nothing seems to be wrong. It just irks me that the red light was on and I have no idea why?
I recently have had service done on my transfer case, transmission, and differential. 50K maintenance, fluid & filter change, etc. I had to use the Auto Trac II for the transfer case, which I think is a racked that Chevy has a monopoly on. I used Full Synthetic for the transmission and differential thou. I also had my Transmission and Rear Differential pan and cover replaced with the MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. I don't think that any of the above would have made the Red light come on. Maybe flashing the Hi Beams did it? Any one?
Also lately the heater for the passenger seat comes on all by itself when someone is sitting in it. Has this happen to anyone else?
I believe that I found out something really good for everyone concerned. Even after our 36/36 warranty has run out there are still several hundred parts that are covered under factory warranty that you probably don't know about up to 70K, 100K and even 150K for some parts.
For instances anything having to do with the emissions, and I mean anything. Even your Air Filter is covered up to 100K. The list is to long to type out, but I recommend that everyone read it.
Most of the problems listed above and in the forum are covered under factory warranty up to 100,000 miles that the dealers will not tell you about. You would not believe me if I typed it out, so please read your warranty manual to see for your self.
Also you can replace your factory parts with an after market part and you will not void any of the warranties. That is so long as the after market part is of the same quality or better than GM uses. And that is not hard to beat in most cases.
I have replaced at my expense, my Air Intake to a K&N 5700 series, my spark plugs to E3 and my plug wires to MSD Super Conductors. I have also replaced my Transmissin pan and Differential Cover with a MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. These hold more fluid and keep the parts cooler. Especially if you tow a trailer or do 4 wheeling. In addition I used Full Synthetic gear oil and Transmission fluid instead of the stock fluid and gear oil. This will also help the part last a lot longer. Anything small to help my 2004 Tahoe Z71 get better mpg and allow me to prevent any costly maintenance I have decided to do. As soon as I can afford it, I'm going to replace my stock coils with the MSD coils. The MSD coils will also improve the mpg as they put out a multiple spark compared to the stock coils. You can pick up a set of all 8 for a little over $700.00 at Kragens or Pep-Boys.
I guarantee that 99.9% of you will be shocked to discover that you have purchased a part that was covered under warranty.
br,
tomkost