Hyundai Azera 2006



  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You are right, we are here to talk about what anyone wants to discuss (relative to the Azera, of course). Post what you want and, yes, those who aren't interested should just skip the post.

  • jim101jim101 Member Posts: 252
    Was in Melbourne today waiting for the daughter in a parking lot. We sat facing the street. For fun I started to look for Hyundai's traveling on the east bound side of the street seeing how two were in the parking lot not counting ours.
    Within the first five minutes twelve drove by. Decided I would try and also count the west bound Hyundai's Lets just say in the next ten minutes the count was over thirty with the first twelve included.
    Daughter drove to wrong exit so we had to drive to the north side of Melbourne. Saw five more in the ten mile trip. As we were pulling out a beautiful Venitian Blue Azera drove by, we stared each other down and waived.
    From Melbourne to Daytona Beach we stopped counting but would point at each Hyundai.
    Bottom line, there are more Hyundai's, least it seems that way, then there are multiples of other makes, yes there were a number of Honda's and Toyota's but they were out counted.
  • codata99codata99 Member Posts: 123
    Azera has shimless tappets. They don't require any adjustment. The Kia engine probably has the same type; I'm not 100% sure on this.
  • codata99codata99 Member Posts: 123
    Most current solid-tappet valvetrains don't have shims. That includes all current Toyota gasoline engines except the new 3.5 and 4.6. Toyota chose to adopt hydraulic valve lash adjusters for them.

    These shimless tappets are supposed to last the lifetime of the engine.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    I posted at length on this topic at length in post 2953 a week ago. Unless an automaker or oil refiner has developed a wear-free engine or motor oil under the radar, valve adjustments in some form will be with us always. Yes, The Optima's Mu V6 uses similar valve technology to that of the new Hyundai Lambda V6 engines. ALL tappets/lifters, regardless of engine manufacturer, are subject to wear and must be adjusted or replaced to compensate. Hydraulic tappets fulfill that function continuously without service intervention. (leastways until they get varnished up from too infrequent oil changes...) Adjustable valve trains with screw and locknut technology require checking and perhaps adjustment service intervention at prescribed intervals to maintain specified valve lash clearance. Bucket and shim tappets also require service intervention and shim replacement if out of tolerance. Hyundai's new CVVT V6 engines have no provision for resetting adjustable tappets/lifters, shim adjustment, or continuous hydraulic takeup as in the company's previous V6 designs. When camlobe and/or lifter wear eventually results in excessive valve lash - which will result in both noise and late/reduced lift valve operation - the entire solid lifter will have to be replaced outright. Hyundai's shop manual specifies that service replacement lifters are available in 39 measured lengths to accomodate re-establishing proper valve lash clearance. That, and the fact that the owners manuals specifiy in the maintenance section that valve lash should be verified every 60,000 miles, should both be irrefutable evidence that wear is measurable wear is anticpated that must be accounted for periodically. There's NO such thing as a wear-free, life-of-the-engine valve train in this universe. ;) On these new Hyundai designs this is not a two-hour Saturday afternoon light-hearted romp for do-it-yourselfers with a Haynes manual flopped over the front fender since a considerable amount of hardware* has to be first removed before the offending tappets/lifters can be accessed.

    Front engine pulley and crankshaft harmonic balancer
    Engine front cover(s)
    Timing chains
    Intake manifold surge tank (aka "plenum chamber")
    Both cam/valve covers

    Only then can the lifters/tappets be withdrawn from their bores in the cylinder heads and replaced.
  • aljazeraaljazera Member Posts: 3
    I appreciate all the free advice everyone has posted here on the Azera. I took the plunge and bought an 06 fully loaded Venetian Blue yesterday. I got it at invoice minus the $1000 rebate. The owners manual gives me pause. It says that for the first 1200 miles you should go no faster than 55 mph. The next sentance in the manual says you should stay between 2000 and 4000 rpms. I find this condradictary. Any suggestions?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Great conversation! Let's continue here: Hyundai Azera vs Lincoln Zephyr. The posts have been moved there.
  • kingsalmonkingsalmon Member Posts: 97
    Maybe they mean that you shouldn't pass 4000 rpms. Usually, in my car, it passes 4000rpms when I accelerate to about 60-70 mph then it goes down. Just try not to accelerate too fast. I think they mean keep it from passing 4000 rpms because when you just start the car it is below 1000rpms. It's impossible to keep the car running between 2000-4000 rpms at all times. keeping it from running over 4000 rpms, however, is quite possible and not contradictory.

    Anyhow, congrats on your purchase! I've seen quite a few new Azera's and they look great on the road. Try to vary the speeds without accelerating too hard initially. -Peace
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "It says that for the first 1200 miles you should go no faster than 55 mph. The next sentance in the manual says you should stay between 2000 and 4000 rpms. I find this condradictary."

    There's no contradiction at all. Keeping the engine speed above 2,000 RPM while driving will avoid lugging the engine. This is more of a concern for vehicles with standard transmissions. Since the Azera has a 5-sp automatic, there's really no concern since the transmission shift programming won't allow you to lug the engine down to too low an engine speed. Not exceeding an engine speed above 4,000 RPM will elliminate undue wear during break-in. This would only be a concern if you force a downshift for all-out acceleration, or purposely manually downshift the transmission with the "Shiftronic" feature. Hyundai's simply cautioning you not be do either until the engine's moving parts have had an opportunity to ease-in to their final alignment - aka, "break-in". Once break-in is achieved, feel free to redline the tachometer to its hard cutoff of 6,000 RPM all ya' want and drive any speed you feel is prudent (or willing to chance a run-in with the law) to do so and have the income to afford the gasoline it takes.
  • ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292

    It says that for the first 1200 miles you should go no faster than 55 mph. The next sentance in the manual says you should stay between 2000 and 4000 rpms. I find this condradictary.


    The first 1200 miles list are recommendations. In the manual it states: "No formal break-in proceudure is required." But then they go on to list 7 recommendations.

    I would just avoid anything "hard" and abrupt -- accelerating, stopping, towing, etc. I just drove "normally" and everything is perfectly fine with my Azera.

    You are right when there are some contradictions. You HAVE to go below 2000 RPM -- even with lightly footed automatic shifting it goes below 2000 rpm.

    Remember these are just recommendations and NOTHING is required for break-in on that engine. I would just relax and take it easy.

    And congratulations on your purchase. Fine automobile!
  • tonycdtonycd Member Posts: 223
    Ray, thanks again for your several excellent contributions on this topic. I now feel much less stupid about it than previously. :)
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    I finally found an arrangement that works for me. The only REAL way to prevent the keys from banging is to only hve 1 key in the ignition. Soooo, I just unclip the ign key & put the fob, etc, into the felt-lined coin tray at the base of the radio console while I drive, then clip them together when I exit the car.

    Will try a photo in this post.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    How much of a difference should there be in what the reading of the outside temp gauge provides to what the actual tempurature is? Just the other day, the temps reached the mid 90's and while I was driving, I looked down and read 104 on the gauge. Is there any way it can be adjusted???
  • mechanic80mechanic80 Member Posts: 122
    I'm sure someone on this site has the deails, but I believe there is a TSB on that exact issue. Mine, too seems to be reading higher than what is actual temp. Most all systems regardles of manufacturer take a few minutes to adjust after initial start-up, but consistantly high or low readings indicate a "technical difficulty."
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    That's TSB 06-97-001
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Excuse the ignorance....TSB???
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Member Posts: 17,600
    TSB =

    Toyota Stalls Briefly?

    Tourist Sees Balloon?

    Texas Shore Beachhouse?

    Tacoma's So Boring?

    Tennessee Southern Boarder?

    Ten Sobbing Ballerinas?

    Ok it means Technical Service Bulletin.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Thank you. I'll make sure to check that out.
  • codata99codata99 Member Posts: 123
    Of course they wear out just like any other friction part. But the wear will be within the spec throughout the lifetime of the engine; hence proper valve clearance.
    Audible inspection for valve clatter will suffice for the regular maintenance.
    That's the standard industry practice.
    You don't go open up the engine when there's no performance or NVH issues.
    It's like performing open heart surgery to see if the arteries are OK. You don't want the doctor to do that for a regular check-up, do you??
    Also keep in mind that the shop manuals are written for professionals, not for armchair mechanics or shade tree types.
    For consumers, Toyota even gives the definition of valve clearance inspection. - -

    BTW, are you aware that Honda still uses set screws for valve lash adjustment?
    The kind that Hyundai ditched more than a decade ago moving up to hydraulic lash adjusters?
    The last Hyundai that had that set-up was 1994 Excel.
    Any clue on the inherent flaw of the system? I'll quote something just for you in the CR-V forum.

    msg. #15946
  • 101649101649 Member Posts: 192
    Is the small radiator located in front of the main radiator for oil cooling, tranny fluid cooling,or a/c evaporation??
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    I suspect it's the A/C condensor. (The A/C evaporator is inside the heater core case up inside the dash.) The transmission cooler is inside the regular coolant radiator nestled in the bottom tank. If you follow the inlet and outlet hoses from the transmission, you'll see where they connect at the radiator. To my knowledge very few production passenger cars come with motor oil coolers. What I would like to see in production cars are cast aluminum, finned oil pans - at least finned in the area of the sump where airflow is maximized.
  • rich234rich234 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have this problem? My sunroof drips and leaks around the rubber seal when I wash it. Doesn't matter if it's by hand or I take it through a high powered wash. It also drips when it rains. According to the service mgr, the roof is not designed to keep water from dripping into and on to the the sunroof assembly. Supposedly there is a trough with drains to exit any water that may collect up there. He claims that as long as no water is getting into the cabin that the leaking is normal. I've had the roof reajusted three times and each time it leaks in differnt areas. As far as I'm concerned a sunroof shouldn't leak at all and I've had several cars from a 300M to BMW and none ever leaked. I finally had enough and contacted consumer affairs. If this is what Hyundai quality I'll go back to a BMW price or no price.
  • tinydog1tinydog1 Member Posts: 83
    Your service manager is correct. No sunroof is completely sealed. There is a tray with drains around the perimiter of the sunroof to catch the water and drain it away. There is only a problem if it leaks into the cabin. Usually caused by clogged drain tubes. I have had 4 Hyundais with sunroofs and never experienced a problem with water leaking into the cabin. I own an Azera w/sunroof and have had no problems. I run it thru a high pressure laser wash at least once a week. I hope this helps.
  • chilliwackchilliwack Member Posts: 189
    When I bought my Azera, the sunroof was not properly adjusted. I had an 1/16-1/8" gap in places, which was totally unacceptable. I did notice also that there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) for correct adjustment. It appears that at the back of the sunroof, the roof of the car is a bit high. I believe this can be adjusted down manually. When my sunroof was done being adjusted, I was able to slide a business card between the rubber into the interior space, but this is normal I am told. I do not notice any water getting in however. Go back, tell them to refer to the TSB and to do it right. You should not see any gaps, but only a snug fit. If you are not satisfied, go to the service manager and have them call in the Hyundai rep.
  • ranger2001xltranger2001xlt Member Posts: 85
    This is why I wish Hyundai would not lump a sunroof into their Azera packages. I wish it was included as a separate option on all their cars. I would not put up with 'gaps' in my roof regardless if water was entering the cabin.

    I personally have never liked or used sunroofs when they were included on the cars I've owned. I think they are a waste of money and wish I didn't have to automatically pay for them becuiase I want every other feature on the car.

    Maybe Hyundai will get this right when they price the 07 models.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Agree absolutely. Sunroof's are:

    A> a rattle source

    B> a leak source

    C> a headrom obstruction

    D> a wind roar source

    E> a broken glass source in the event of a rollover

    F> something else to go wrong over time

    G> most often largely unused

    H> all of the above

    For people who want'em, fine - let the price of a sunroofless Limited be adjusted downward with the sunroof option priced to equalize the final vehicle price to match current pricing. But this questionable "feature" should not be mandatory just to make life easier on the factory floor and/or give Hyundai "value" bragging rights. Hyundai's not stupid, but on this issue the company's behaving as if it's brain-dead. Mandatory sunroof inclusion is a deal buster on any car I'd be contemplating.
  • sundevilssundevils Member Posts: 100
    You forgot that the sunroof also adds weight to the vehicle.
  • donvickdonvick Member Posts: 38
    I've washed our Azera 3 times now and haven't had a problem with leaks around the sunroof area. I will be watching for it now though.
    I agree the sunfroofs ought to be an optional accessory. We have the wind deflector and I don't think it adds anything to the looks of the car. Actually I think it looks a bit cheesy. I'm curious about the noise levels without it. Been thinking about taking it off and see what the difference is myself. Wife gets nervous when I grab tools and head for her car.

    With all the sun we get here, Fresno area, we try to avoid the sun. The sunshade covering the sunroof inside was the ticket that helped sell us on the Azera.

    1300+ miles so far and no complaints heard.
  • azeradaveazeradave Member Posts: 42
    I have had my Azera for 4 months now. I did notice that the paint does not bead water any longer after rain or washing. In my prior experiences with new cars, the polish or wax job lasted at least 6 months. Any one have this problem after having the car only a short time :( ?
  • 101649101649 Member Posts: 192
    I had the dealer remove the wind deflector at delivery..Noise levels are ok and looks better..It's a DIY if you be careful...2 clips held on with Phillips screws...I'm in FL and we use them al lot in the winter...
  • 101649101649 Member Posts: 192
    Most cars don't come from the factory with a wax or sealant.Usually the paint is still "curing" (volitales, hydrocarbons, thinners, etc are still evaporating from the paint) By the time the car gets to the dealer, the paint is cured..The dealer may wax or detail the car before delivery...Usually they try to stick you with a huge line item cost such as "environmental protection package" for $250 or more....this is just a wax job...DIY with a good quality wax/protectant or have it detailed...A good job will last probably 6 months depending on the circumstances....You'll need to re-wax or glaze when the water drops get larger than a quarter (25 cent piece) or the water "sheets" on the paint surface.
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaMember Posts: 233
    Looks like the only vehicles they haven't shown their cards on are the Elantra, Azera, Tuscon and Tiburon. All the rest are now '07 models...
  • policecar6policecar6 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone else noticed a shadow on the driver's side in the projected headlight beam?Adjustment horizontal/vertical does not alleviate the shadow. Inside the bulb housing there is a metal "wall" the exact shape as the shadow which is cast. The shadow disapears when high beams are on-but can't drive with them on all the time. Dealer at a loss. This is driving me nuts while traveling at night. Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    In my '02 Sonata, nor in my new Azera, have I had any problems with the sunroof at all! In my Sonata, I had the wind deflector and wished I hadn't after seeing the way it marked up the paint around the sunroof. When I got my Azera, I made sure to let the dealer know I didn't want the deflector on it. Granted, there is a little more wind noise at highway speeds, but that can be muted by pulling the inner sun shade closed. Never heard a rattle and never had a leak. I'm 6'2" and head room was not and is not an issue for me. Granted it is more broken glass in the event of a roll over, but with the chances of a roll over being slim...not an issue for me. It is something else that can go wrong, but with the 10 yr./ 100K mile bumper-to-bumper warranty...not an issue. Living in the DC area, my sunroof gets used more often than not. After all, why buy a car with one and not use it?
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    I've never been one to follow the advice of the dealer and not wax my car within the 1st year. I think I had my Azera 2 weeks when I put my first coat of wax on. Depending on when the car was delivered, the paint is either still curing or freshly cured, so you have to be careful when waxing as even the smallest particle in your cloth can cause scratches. I've been using the new Meguiars NXT about an incredible shine!!! I have a black Azera and after waxing it, the paint looks like you can dive into it. I also like that you don't get that white powdery build up as you take the wax off. Good luck!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesMember Posts: 18,946
    So you got the extended warranty for your Azera?
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Sure did, was rather spoiled by that warranty when I had my Sonata. Felt good still being covered 4 years into ownership.

    If you don't plan on keeping the car for too long, I woulnd't recommend getting the extended warranty. However, if you're like me and planning on making this your last car for a good's worth the investment.
  • jnd17jnd17 Member Posts: 62
    The Azera can be waxed anytime after you purchase it. The paint has already been cured at the factory and there is No need to wait a year. I detailed my New Azeri two days after I got it. I used a Porter Cable Orbital Buffer with a Glaze and then Souveran Paste Wax by hand. I also detailed the wheels. Here are some pictures:
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Very nice, very nice indeed!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "You forgot that the sunroof also adds weight to the vehicle."

    Between the tempered glass, the motor drive assembly, additional electricals, and the sliding sunshade I wouldn't be surpised that's an additional 50 lbs. after deducting for the missing roof panel metal weight. Probably not a significant difference in terms of braking/handling and fuel economy for those who crave the great outdoors inside, but a point nevertheless. But the lion's share of that additional weight is right where you don't want it - at the very top of the car where it can generate maximum centrifugal force during emergency maneuvers. Thank you.
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    I polished my wife's Azera about two weeks after we purchased it. I use Zaino products and my experience has been outstanding.

    I first washed the car, then claybarred it to make sure there was no soil or remnants from the manufacturing process. Put on two coats of Zaino polish along with their gloss enhancer in between. I will get pics posted when I have time.

    PS> I purchased and installed the factory accessory mudflaps to cut down on the lower rocker panel splash. Saw this as a problem with the Limited's wider 17" wheels and tires. They are an ok DIY project, but you have to remove the tires to do it right.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    I would be more concerned if that top weight was towards the front or the back of the car, but since it's pretty much in the middle...I don't think it adds anything to any type of emergency manuver. I mean...if the car were to go into a spin...I truly doubt the sunroof would have any affect on that spin.

    If that's the case, would a car with a 1/4 tank of gas be more proned to spin versus a car with a full tank? Considering the fuel tank is positioned more towards the rear of the car...19 gallons of gas is pretty heavy. However...wouldn't the ESC system on the Azera counter any of this???
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Yes...the splash guards are a definite "must get" on my list. I currently use tire care products that don't sling onto the car, however...road grime, mud and other stuff from the tires still does.

    I'm sure it will be even more of an issue when I change the tire/rim package.

    About how long did it take for you to install the splash guards?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "Been thinking about taking it off and see what the difference is myself. Wife gets nervous when I grab tools and head for her car."

    The tinted plastic sunroof wind deflector attaches with two clips held by phillips-head screws. You can have it off in a couple minutes - maybe less. It'll take about that long to remount it. I had a '91 Sonata with a sunroof. I found the spring-loaded puny pop-up metal deflector that's part of the sunroof hardware just about as effective at controlling noise and wind buffeting as the add-on tinted plastic wind deflector. The plastic piece rested in a place of honor along the garage wall thereafter.
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    I know what you're talking about. I had my dealer adjust the lights "up", and that made it much better, but the shadow is still there, but not as noticeable.
  • areza1areza1 Member Posts: 14
    #3036 of 3048 Low beam headlights-distracting shadow- by policecar6 Jul 30, 2006 (8:00 pm)

    Has anyone else noticed a shadow on the driver's side in the projected headlight beam?Adjustment horizontal/vertical does not alleviate the shadow. Inside the bulb housing there is a metal "wall" the exact shape as the shadow which is cast. The shadow disapears when high beams are on-but can't drive with them on all the time. Dealer at a loss. This is driving me nuts while traveling at night. Any suggestions?

    yeah, that uneven "silhouette" drives me crazy this something that can be fixed with new bulbs, or is it just an inherent design flaw? :confuse:

    i'll try having a dealer play with the adjustments, like someone above mentioned
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    Worst part was getting the jack out and taking off the wheels. At least I know how to change a flat if I ever have one.

    The factory flaps just pop into place and there are four screws that are already holding trim. You just remove them, place the flap and then re-install the screws. The flaps are shipped with new screws as well.

    I got mine from ebay, as the local dealers want big $$ for any factory parts. Do a search for Hyundai mud flaps and you may find a set listed. There are different sets for front and rear. I also bought factory oil filter cartridges from ebay at 6.85 apiece. The local dealer wanted $18.

    Good luck
  • mechanic80mechanic80 Member Posts: 122
    That shadow is a distant relative of the little man that lives in your refrigerator and turns the light on and off!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hahahahahahahahaha!! :P
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