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Comments
I have already pushed the car to test the envelope, in a parking lot of course. I REALLY :shades: like the way the 18" tire work with the BIG 4 wheel discs and ABS. It really took a lot of push to break it free. (sorry to repeat from earlier)
REALLY found that I need/want the stainless sill plates. The plastic ones sure get scratched up quick from my wifes hard shoes!!! Still on order.
Also, thanks for the link to the Dodge accessories!
I have not seen the Marine Blue in person but I also think it will be really pretty. My uncle has a light blue Ram truck and I think they are similar except the Caliber is lighter.
I can't wait for it to come in! I am hoping once my salesman sees my order (he was out sick today so I just made the deposit without him) he will be able to figure out if they have one coming in like it so I can just have that one.
I hope we did not steer you wrong, we really love our Caliber R/T!!!!
Not to be personal but what dollar amount did you agree on and was it a purchase or a lease????? (don't feel obligated to answer)
Since registration and tax rates vary so much across the states, it is much more helpful for all of us to report - just what you paid to the dealer; so we can compare apples to apples.
I ordered an SXT. All I have done so far is put down a deposit. I haven't talked numbers as far as the final price yet. Do you have any suggesstions? The salesman keeps saying there isn't much markup and blah blah blah so I will probably end up paying sticker, less the $500 rebate. Is that good/bad/normal? I *think* he did say he would give me $500 off, in addition to the rebate.
On my SXT, I got the Musicgate, sunroof, fog lamps/daytime running system, and the drivers convenience group.
I can't wait for it to come in!!!
I don't mean to be argumentative, but this isn't exactly correct. The AWD system is full-time, but works on-demand when the system detects slippage, or when you are constantly driving between 30 and 60 mph. For simple cruising the car only powers the front two wheels, similar to other AWD systems used in various vehicles. The engine does not always power all four wheels.
With luck my R/T will arrive this week! Have I mentioned that the wait is killing me?
On a well equipped SXT, the difference between MSRP and "invoice" is around $1300. Absent the DCX friends/family deal, I'd shoot for $1000 under MSRP and take the rebate off of that.
You are getting a very nice car - make sure you get a fair price on it too.
I really LOVE our R/T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ps have you driven an R/T yet??
I hope this is right. Do any other SXT owners have comments on insurance costs?
Thanks
I don't want to suggest what a good or bad price is. Like anything in life, if you want it bad enough price won't matter. The other person who "suggested" $1000 under sticker is giving good advice. You may get more (or less) in your area!! Above sticker would be bad though!!
Negotiate, Negotiate, Negotiate, get the best deal you can!!! Don't feel pressured either.
Sounds like you have a killer combo ordered.
Any insurance people out there that can explain it??
My insurance stayed the same from a 02 Town & Country Full coverage.
Regarding our opinion of the SXT and R/T. Before my wife could drive the R/T she only drove the SXT and like yours loved it. I then explained the same about AWD & 4 wheel disc like you did. She understood, like yours, and then wanted to try the R/T to be safe. Obviously we bought the R/T and love it! (we fight on the weekends who gets to drive, it's hers all week)
The ride is stiffer and the steering is better too!! Order the mudflaps, they have kept less cr*p off of the lower rear qtrs like they are supposed to.
Regarding gas mileage, still getting 25. Her Town & Country was getting 20, my 02 Neon 34 (lots of hwy)avg!!!
I don't think my salesman is going to give it to me for that because he is already acting like he won't be making any money off of it anyway.
What is a good way to approach this subject? What do I say when wanting to negotiate? I have never done this, as this is my first car I will have bought on my own! My last cars my parents did all the legwork.
P.S. Can you do the college grad discount AND the rebate or is it one or the other?
Also, you can combine DCX programs like college-grad and military bonuses wth the current rebate offer of $500.
How to approach this... Go to the dealer prepared to complete the transaction if they meet your expectations on price and prepared to walk out if they don't. For most folks this is very difficult. I bought my Caliber over the phone. I came up with a "fair" set of numbers and told them I would buy the car if they agreed to these numbers.
I went to KBB.COM and found the "good condition" trade-in value of my car first. Let's call that number X. I wanted to pay Y for the new Caliber (in your case a reasonable Y might be MSRP-1000). Essentially you are "haggling" over how close to Y - X the dealer is willing to come. In my case, they agreed to my numbers exactly, but not on the first try. The addition of fees and taxes, and the deduction for rebates and incentives should come after you have agreed on X and Y.
As an example if you have a trade-in that is worth $2,500 (according to KBB, not you) and the new Caliber has an MSRP of $18,950, it would be fair to pay a difference of $15,450 (17,950-2,500). Taxes, rebates, pay-off, etc, should all be done after you settle on this number.
In my experience buying cars, and I've bought too many according to my wife, this is the best way to do it. Lots of people do not understand the process and end up paying too much.
That's why I said earlier that you need to be willing to leave if they do not meet reasonable expectations on price. If they are way off on the difference, you should tell them "It's a nice car and I want to buy it, but I cannot pay that much for it" and that you want your deposit back. This lets them know that you are a serious buyer, but only at the right price.
If they say "When you ordered the car, you did not request this price," you can say that "You are correct, but I did not agree to pay MSRP, I only agreed to buy the car if I was satisfied with everything when it arrived at your dealership." You might also add "I did not know what others were paying for similar cars when I ordered mine."
Treat them politely, honestly, and respectfully and they should treat you the same way.
Tough questions.... Tough answers....
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/FirstDrives/articleId=109193
http://driving.canada.com/research/viewroadtest.spy?artid=56023
Thanks for the links, Neely, those were interesting articles. One of them got me confused. Does the LED flashlight come with the SXT or only the RT?
This part disapointed me in the last article:
More disappointing is the cheap plastic on the interior of the doors. I thought this kind of hard, dull grey plastic went out with the Chevy Cavalier. Also, the fit of the passenger-side air bag was decidedly wonky. By way of an excuse, Chrysler officials noted that these were early prototypes. But this kind of thing crops up in other Chrysler production vehicles -- as does the huge gap between the hood and front fender. These things need to change if the automaker is going to convince consumers that the Caliber is a vast step beyond the old Neon/SX 2.0.
Face it, not too many people throw extra money onto their bills if they find they have a few bucks left at the end of the month. They buy beer.
Yes he is right about the length of the loan, less is better. UNLESS you qualify and get 0% interest loan, usually whenever I get these I am limited to a term of 36 months though. The more down really does help!!!
Unless you are talking about $100,000 or more, your interest rate is not very high. If you get more than a couple percent interest rate, let the rest of us know!!!!
Example $5000 @ 3 perc. will be less than $200!
Yea, I too have noticed the extra payment money does buy beer doesn't it?
I seem to be the only on this forum who has an R/T (some are on order). I don't find the interior to be cheap. What does that article expect from a vehicle of this price range, Mahogany wood and Cashmere carpet??
Don't get too worried, if you checked out all the other cars similar to this one you would find similar interior material, everything is plastic nowadays!! I have owned more cars than you can ever imagine!!!
The Flashlight is supposed to be on all Calibers I think. We have it - it's ok - it is an LED type light, nothing really spectacular here.
Now the kicker!!! Those articles said the R/T was around $23000 WOW! I guess I stole mine at less than $20000. Our window sticker came in at $20,885. We leased it and still got it less than 20. Even with the extra cost paint!
Does anyone else have there R/T yet?????
OrangeRT, you got a good deal on yours! I hope I do too!
Hopefully if you get one you will like it!!!!
Still staying at 25 mpg according to recpts. I have no major problems or issues with the car yet.
As the previous poster mentioned, playing dealers off amongst themselves is a good approach...except here, you have to figure on driving 600 kilometres round-trip to save a few hundred dollars.
And again, DCX doesn't seem to have ANY incentives or rebates on "ordinary" vehicles here. Granted, if you want a gas-guzzler or a luxury SUV, you can save tens of thousands.
http://www.get2knowcaliber.ca/
I'd just like the individual dealerships around here to update their inventories on their websites to reflect that they actually DO carry the Caliber...and perhaps a little about the specific vehicle on their lot, ie. what model and what it comes with.
Most of the dealerships here know they have an edge over the consumer, because we don't have the option of simply walking to another Dodge dealership just across town.
It's "my way or the highway" mostly.
I just hit 3300 miles on my caliber (2.0 fwd) and am getting 28 to 30 mpg.
The problem is, I already put a deposit on a car somewhere else. I didn't sign anything saying I would buy from them so I don't think I am obligated. How do I get it back? What do I say?
find out what the 1% price is and then call the other dealer and see what his botom line is and compare the two, that will make your decision who is giving the best deal. If you get better with the 1% with same options tell the dealer with the deposit to match it - BUT BE PREPARED TO BUY IMMEDIATLEY if you do this!!!! They don't like to play games too many times.
Like all the advice we all are giving you, THINK ABOUT IT BEFORE YOU ACT!!! We have opinions and opinions ONLY!!! We are not going to be there to own or pay for YOUR car!
Yes, I do have an AWD Orange R/T!!! It rates factory 23-26. I am getting an honest 25 avg currently!!!
Basically the 2nd dealer offered me $1500 off the sticker (build it now price online) price and that includes the rebate. I think that is pretty good!
I am wondering about the headlights in the Caliber.
In my Camry they are on all the time. When I open the car door, they go off.
Is the Caliber like this at all? With the headlights or fog lights?
Was looking at hte mazda 3 sport (hatch) a while back and am now looking at the caliber. They both are around the same price range and the same mpg. there are the obvious differences that the caliber has (cooler, flashlight, ipod holder and compatibility etc)that the mazda doesn't but it seemst he mazda is better for pick up and go and just has better handling. Any opinions on one compared to the other?
thanks.
There are a few steps to go through before even thinking about cutting a deal with the dealership:
1)Find a car you like with a sticker price you CAN afford.
2)Do some research on the car; internet, newspapers, magazines, etc.
3)Go to the dealership to test drive one or two different trims.
4)Find out about the price the dealership is paying for the car you want.
5)Go to other dealerships to see how much they would sell it for. Ask for extra fees, gas in the tank, tire taxes, etc.
6)Find out how much others are paying for a car similar to what you want.
7)Make a low but reasonable offer... YOU get a good deal, THEY make some money...
8)Stick to it!!
Thanx
THat being said, I still think the Mazda drivetrain and build quality might be a bit better than the Caliber. It's a more of a "fun to drive" car, and it handles really well.
The Dodge has a few more "gee whiz!" features on it that are kind of innovative and should be the standard on new vehicles to come.
All in all, it's six of one and half-a-dozen of another. A bit more quality for a bit more money...that's the story of life. Whether or not those intangible differences between the two models are worth the extra price premium - that's between you, your conscience, and your wallet.
It's a ten year old small car. It's not a Honda or a Toyota. It's a domestic. It's got almost 200K on a 4-cylinder motor.
I'd be surprised if you'd get much more than a grand or so for it on a trade-in. And I wouldn't pay 3500 for it in a private sale.(no offense intended)
What's the best way to find this information out?