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When I selected the car from the dealers list of incoming 06 TL’s (I was looking for Alabaster Silver / Quartz) I saw that they had 2 to 3 times as many cars coming with NAV as without. In 04 and 05, the cars without NAV were the majority and it appears that in 06 the NAV’s will be the majority.
My question is, because the ratio is so high with NAV, am I going to be sorry when I sell the car and it does not have NAV? :confuse:
However, you might be sorry you don't HAVE it.... just from a jealousy standpoint...
If you don't think that will happen, then I wouldn't worry about it..... I think in the bigger picture (not just your dealer's inventory), NAV-equipped units are way below 50% of the total..
regards,
kyfdx
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was my mistake a costly one? how much of a difference am I losing since I would be doing the whole trade in then if I would have just bought the 06.....I hope that question was'nt too confusing lol
thanks!
Jason
Maybe I am missing something as I don't own a Nav system. Am I ? How does everyone use their nav? I am curious.
1. finding places I don't know - I like that I can look for things with voice prompts - don't need to take my eyes off the road or hands off the wheel unless/until I need to enter a street name (I can search by business phone #s or saved addresses using voice only). This helps me when going to dr appts, etc. I can also use it to find the nearest grocery/movie theater/etc, so even if I'm unfamiliar with an area, I can search for a generic place without knowing the address. I don't know what the after-market models do so I can't comment on that.
2..finding places I know - I also use when going somewhere I've been 100 times. Even though I know how to go, it's easier to have the system tell me to make the next right, rather than squinting to see the street names. And personally, there's many times I know "about" where a place is, but not exactly. Even if I don't punch in for directions, it's easier to see the street names on the nav system than finding the corner with the pole and hoping the sign is there and angled in my direction
3. Staying on schedule. I travel to Orlando on business with some regularity. I know the way by heart and have been there 1000 times before I had nav. Still, if I want to make sure I'm on target to get there on time (or want to call with an estimated time of arrival), I punch in where I'm going and after setting the route, the nav system gives you the estimate (CAVEAT - I find this is only accurate when there's minimal traffic)
4. Phone #s. I don't have bluetooth, but b/c the nav finds phone #s when you look by place name (i.e. Acura dealership; Home Depot), even if I don't need directions, I can punch up the place to call them for a question/reservation/hrs of operation/etc)
5. Other goodies: when you get nav, you also get voice recog for the climate control and the radio. Nothing makes my friends more jealos than when the radio goes to commercial and I say, "CD, play disc 3 track 7" - and it does!!! Think that's not a worthwhile convenience? I don't have XM so I listen to radio. If I want to switch to the CD player without searching for the button in the center stack and without voice recognition, I have to hit the steering wheel "mode" button past the other FM and AM bands, past the 2 XM bands and past the tape band (if there's a tape in the deck). Then you need to search for the CD (can't do this with the steering wheel controls) and track you want. Much easier (and therefore, much safer) to just tell the car what you want. It also comes in handy in more mundane situations, like when I want to listen to my 7th favorite station and the band only holds 6, or I see a billboard for a station I don't have, I just tell the car to tune in and it does. My wife enjoys that part, as she can never figure out where I've programmed her stations. Now she doesn't have to.
Now with the climate control, it's not that hard just to change the temp manually, and for the most part that's what I do. But it's easier to say "Climate Control bi-level" to get the air to come out at my feet and face rather than scrolling through the options. And its easier to say "Passenger temperature 67 degrees" as opposed to leaning over to change the temperature. I also can never seem to find the rear defroster. Because of the voice recognition, I don't have to.
So that's my take on the nav system. In my mind, it was well-worth the extra $2,000, even if I don't get any of it back on resale.
I think to get it down to the dollar is a tough calculation. But when you financed, you had to pay certain destination charges, doc fees and contract fees that you will be charged again. There might be a tax difference, too (maybe you pay a larger portion of taxes upfront where you are).
As far as actual car cost - find out what your payment for an '06 would be w/o your trade, and then how much it'll be with your trade (must be the same payments over the same time period) and that'll show you the rest.
Someone else please comment to confirm my thoughts or correct them.
Good advice to have the payment calculated with AND without the trade-in. The payment WITH the trade-in is almost certainly going to be higher because you are likely to have serious negative equity in your '04 TL - the '05 TLs have a current MSRP listed at $33K-35K, and that's on a brand new, never driven vehicle. You owe $33K on a used vehicle, one previous model year.
You can do some calculations on your own making some basic assumptions, some of which you can garner from our Acura TL: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion. Go to the Edmunds.com home page and click the "new cars" tab, then build a 2005 Acura TL with options you want. For the 2006, members are reporting that approximately $225 will be added to MSRP. You might want to add more if you're adding a lot of options.
Now, go to the Edmunds.com Loan Calculator and enter the information you know - you can get your sales tax rate from your previous vehicle purchase or registration paperwork, or let our calculator fill in an estimate based on averages.
Until you get a trade-in value from Terry in the other discussion, you'll want to assume that your vehicle is worth $33K and that the payoff is $33K for a net of -0-. You should also assume that you aren't going to get a better loan rate, as that's unlikely to change over a period of 3 months - 12%, right?
Using the assumptions above and allowing the calculator to select average tax/registration fees, I come up with a monthly payment in the $850+ range, minimum, assuming you have no cash to put into the deal, and assuming you can zero out your negative trade-in equity by purchasing the new vehicle at full MSRP.
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I just took a quick look at the trade-in value that Edmunds calculates for your '04 TL, and while the low mileage is your friend, you're still looking at a dealership trade-in value in and around the $27K range. This means you're looking at rolling $5-6K of negative equity into the deal, so you'll want to calculate assuming that your vehicle is worth $28K max, with a payoff of $33K. If your credit isn't so hot right now, you may not even be able to DO a deal like this. You might not be able to get "bought" by a finance company for that amount... OR, you will have a ridiculous interest rate.
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Your "negative equity" plus the destination charge and contract charges from your '04 purchase will be the extra amounts you would not have paid had you bought the car you wanted initially.
You are more likely to owe money on your trade.
I know you're young and maybe not thinking too much about the future, but remember that the most powerful force on earth is compounding (as in interest, dividends, investments). Save money, earn money on the savings and the earnings and let it compound. It adds up (relatively) quickly...
Good luck. I have an '05, Abyss Blue. Love it. Borrowed $ at 2.9% instead of paying cash because now with rising interest rates my savings account is paying 3.4%! Theoretically, I can make more than 2.9% investing. But it will be a while before you can earn more than 8% with a conservative investment...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I also noticed, after some research, that the new TSX has a slightly larger turning radius than the TL. This seems strange to me since it is a shorter car. Any engineers out there have an answer.
If you do not understand what the difference between trading in now and trading in 3-5 years from now will make to you financially, then the absolute best advice I can offer you is to NOT trade in until you do.
To put it simply, your car is currently worth a significant amount less than you owe on it. If you wanted to just sell it today (without buying a new vehicle), you would have to pay - IN CASH - an additional ~$5,000 to the finance company to get rid of it. A car dealership is likely going to give you $27 - $28,000 for it, and you owe $33,000.
If you wait til you've had it, say, 3 years, the ratio of what you owe to what the vehicle is worth as a trade-in will likely be equal - your car will probably be worth about $18K at that point, and that's about what you're likely to owe. Then you can trade it in with no devastating financial consequences.
If you trade in your car today and roll the negative equity into a new car, you will be even worse off - let's say you graduate college, get a job, get married, have kids, whatever... and you need to buy a new or larger vehicle in a few years. You will have negative equity in the new TL up to your eyeballs because you financed it at more than 100% of its value (which, if you don't have a credit history, I doubt you can do anyway). And, in order to get payments under $800/month, you'll have to finance it for more than 60 months (5 years). This means that instead of being at a "break even" or better level in about 3+ years, like most people are, you'll still be in a negative equity situation, and you'll have to yet again roll negative equity into a new vehicle.
You can only roll so much negative equity into a new vehicle, so it is better not to start this pattern of accumulating negative equity.
Please, please do not even think about trading in your vehicle until you fully understand the ramifications of the negative equity burden you will be putting into the new finance deal!!
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However, I just wanted to throw it out there for him to consider. Good luck with your decision.
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Jason
Good luck to you.
thanks
Jason
Re your prior post, paying extra money now or later doesn't change the mathematical formula. You're still paying more. It's just that instead of paying $41k for a $35k '06, right now you're paying a $1,700/mo financing. Is $1,700 a month a good deal?
Also, keep in mind that it's dangerous to buy too much car in anticipation of earning more money. Regardless, since your preference is silver, and you seem stuck on dumping your current ride and asking questions until you get the answer you want, I suggest you price out some '04s in silver with the A-spec. Buying used will at least minimize the damage. You'll still be overpaying the same amount becasue of the financial constraints on your car, but the total price will be less.
Jason, if (as you said) you bought your car 4 months ago for $30K, and financed it over 4 years at 8%, your payments would be somewhat more than $700/month, and you would have total payments remaining somewhere between $32 and $33K. It appears to me (from your original post, which may be slightly confusing) that this was a purchase with roughly those parameters. You do not owe $33k on the car. However, you probably still owe very nearly $30K - the post above about the fact that you are primarily paying interest on the money you borrowed until later in the loan life is true. And, you will pay $33K more for the privilege of using someone else's money to have paid for the car while you collect your own funds. Your total $ spent on the car will add up over the course of the loan to around $35K. And, by the time you spend this $35K, your car will be worth $15-20K (more or less).
Call your lender, and ask them to send you an "amortization sheet" (or schedule) that shows how much of each payment is interest, how much is principle (that is, how much is going to pay off the original $30K) for each month of the loan. You have time to do this - the 06 cars will still be there when you get this information.
If you came into a sum of money today, it would still cost you $30K to pay off the loan - even though you already paid $2800 in monthly payments (I hope $3500 now - since the first of the month is here!)
You have several problems:
1: your car is declining in value faster than you are paying off the loan
2: you do not appear to understand the loan process
3: you have "car lust" for the new one (I recognize it because I have had it myself)
You cannot do anything about the first problem except wait. It is in the nature of cars - they are not generally an appreciating asset. Thus, this is a question about how fast you want to throw away your money, and what joy and return you get from it. Only you can decide if this is where your money should go.
You can solve problem 2. Read the thoughtful posts about your problem. Speak to your bank, and to friends and relatives who have gone through this process, until you understand how it works. There is no rush to decide today.
Problem 3 appears to be clouding your vision. I hope to be polite here. If you have already decided to do this, spare us from giving you any more advice.
If you decide to go the personal education route, let us know what you decide. There are lots of folks invested in your saga who would probably like to know.
Good luck!! Tim (By the way - Great Car!!!)
The entire $1,000/month does not go to pay down the principal on your vehicle. Since you just recently purchased and financed your car, the vast majority of your payment currently goes toward paying the interest. If you are paying an extra $300/month, in 6 months your principal (the payoff amount on your vehicle) is likely to be more in the $30,500-30,800 range.
It is nice if you can pay extra against your loan each month, because it WILL bring you to a break-even point more quickly. But you might consider saving some of that extra money for a couple of months and having an aftermarket nav system installed. Then you might feel that you can live with the car for another year or two. Personally, I've managed to live a good 38 years without having all of my wants immediately satisfied, and it hasn't done me in yet.
You have to make your own decision, of course, but you've come here to ask for advice, and have asked in every possible way whether it's a bad decision to trade in. Everyone's telling you YES, absolutely, positively. If the answer you want to hear is "go for it," you might as well tell us so that we can stop wasting time giving you honest advice.
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Don't worry so much about show. Care more about dough. There will be many other demands on your wallet when you get out of college and move out of your parent's house. Don't shackle yourself now at the detriment of later. OK? Booyah
Thank You!!!
Jason
When the car is worth what you owe, your only "loss" will be the additional contract & destination charges. If you keep the car longer, then you will build "equity," for example, when you owe $12k on you car, but the car's value is $15,000, you have $3,000 of equity. You could then turn a profit on selling your car and use that money as a deposit on your next car.
Isn't that what you want someone to say?
Moving on......
Unless your father is Bill Gates, I don't think any student should be buying a new car in the TL's price range. If he has to have a new car, get a 2006 civic!
Jason
thanks for your input.
Payoff Amount: $33,515.28 so you're saying that if I were to pay 10k tomorrow then my total payment owed is 23,515 which is less then my car which would then give me equity?
thanks
As an example, years ago, a friend of mine had a 350Z and was completely smitten with the new Ford Explorer [go figure!!]. He was upside down on his 350Z note by about 3K. The dealer offered to roll the 3K into the financed price of the new Explorer, which my friend did. Three years later, when he wanted to trade again, he discovered that his payoff amount was virtually the same cost as a brand new one, and that his 3 year old Explorer was worth 5K less than his payoff. So, to get the car that he wanted, he basically had to pay 5K over the sticker price.
Your payoff is computed as the original amount lent to you less a little principle that you've paid back plus the daily interest charges. So yea - your payoff of around $33K is what it will cost you to pay off the lien in full. The payoff is good thru whatever date you requested it to be thru.
Got it? Good. Still - don't do this.
TL $42,000 ('05 was 41,000)
TL NAV $44,800 ('05 was 44,300)
Two interesting points:
- The base TL is up $1,000 in Canada but only $240 in the US
- The NAV is now a $2,800 option compared to $3,300 last year.
So I guess I'll be buying the 2006 TL NAV (or the Lexus IS).
PS Saw the new silver paint at the Honda dealership, slightly lighter color.
Jason
(humor follows) If you are going to do this, please get the '06. When the repossession comes next year, I will be able to get a good deal on it. :-)
Your '04 is worth less to the dealer than you will be able to purchase an '04 for, because the dealer then has to turn around and sell your '04 at a profit for him.
So, let's say you get $27K for your '04, and let's say you pay $30K for another '04. You still have $6K of negative equity (The $33K you owe minus the $27K you get from the dealer) that has to be rolled into the new loan. You are then paying, and trying to finance, $36K for the new '04. Not only is that rather foolish, but again, it may be very difficult to get a lending institution to finance you for $6K over what most people are paying for the same vehicle.
An auto loan is a secured loan, meaning the lending institution has some protection from losing all their money in case you default. They can take the asset against which the loan is secured, sell it, and recoup most of their money. If they lend you more than the vehicle is worth in the market, their risk of loss is much greater. Since you don't have a long credit history or a large income, they are going to look at you as a risk, and they aren't likely to make that risk greater by loaning much more than the value of the vehicle.
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I did read your last post saying that you were not going to trade in your 04 or 05...whatever you have...my point is simple...how many posts from how many different people did it take for you to realize that what you want to do is not financially smart....and then I log on tonight and your still add it....what is wrong with you? I said it before and I will say it again...buy the freakin' 06 TL and get it over with...SO many people have given you great sound advice about this but your not getting it....now you want to know if it is smart to trade for the same year but this time get a nav...I just shake my head in amazement...your in college right?
This forum is great for people to learn about the car they wish to purchase and perhaps get a liitle advice from other posters and yet every single post I have read concerning all your questions is all heading the same way....KEEP YOU CAR!!!!!
But as I said before...I think you are looking for someone to tell you what you want to hear and so that's why I said...buy the 06 TL....that's what you want to hear right? Of course once you do that you will be back on this forum asking how you can get out of the huge mistake that you just did...I can read it now...boy I wish I had just kept my 04 or 05 ....whatever you have...if you go back and check all your posts...your not sure what year you have....
I say again...moving on!!!