Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you recently bought/leased a new car online and requested a home delivery due to coronavirus? A reporter would like to speak to you; please reach out to [email protected] by 4/8 for more details.
Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Cooling Systems -- Problems & Solutions (Radiator, Fan, etc)

1356713

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    They wouldn't have worked on your problem, which is a MOVING part. Yeah, they work in the sense that they plug a small hole temporarily...but they plug ANY hole, good or bad, is the problem....
  • my low coolant light stays on but has plenty of coolant? anyone know why?

    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Find out where the sender is (where does it read the coolant?) and see if it's stuck (plunger type) or a grounded sensor.
  • For the past few months, I've noticed an increasingly strong smell of coolant coming from the hood of my '97 LeSabre, and in cold, damp weather an occasional bit of steam coming out of the grille. My reservoir was recently empy; I refilled it a few weeks ago and it's almost all the way down again. There don't appear to be any physical leaks - no puddles - nor do I believe that I am burning any coolant during combustion (as the smell and occasional steam are coming from under the hood. The heater core does not appear to be the issue, as the smell hasn't reached the cabin except on rare occasions. Would replacing the radiator cap be a good (Read: cheap and potentially effective) place to start? It doesn't appear to be of the venting variety. Thanks.

    Post-Script: I previously had an '85 LeSabre that blew a heater core and later a head gasket, so don't sugarcoat anything - I've been through the worst!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    radiator cap is an excellent diagnosis...you might also pull out the coolant reservoir bottle (and hose leading to it) and test it for leaks as well. These are two simple things you can do that might solve your problem.
  • OK.. Thank you. I have been trying to find out how to figure out how the cooling fan works. I don't know as much about vehicles as I would like to. I have the serpentine belt that pulls the a/c and everything. Is there a separate fan apart from the one the serpentine belt goes on? I can't find anything about it in the manual. And how can I tell if it is going on other than when it is in park? Thank you for your patience.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'm not familiar with your vehicle so maybe someone else can answer the fan question---most cars will have a back-up electric cooling fan, which you should be able to see stuck right on the front of your radiator. This should go on when the temperature reaches perhaps 3/4 on your gauge and also should go on when you flip the AC on.
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 Saturn SL1 with 12,600 mileage. The temperature reaches 2/5 on the gauge when my car is running or the A/C is turned on. The temperature reaches at about 1/2 after my car is idling for 3 mins and will go back to 2/5 if I turn A/C on. Is this normal?

    My car was damaged in a flood 3 weeks ago and I repalced the serpentine belt because of a terrible noise. Then my car steamed one day, which was caused by the blown fuse. I have the dealership to replace the fuse and test the fan. I don't know there are still other problems with this car . Thanks a lot!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yeah that sounds like normal behavior. When you turn the AC on, you turn on the electric cooling fan.
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    Thanks a lot! So that kind of temperature is normal, rihgt? I was really scared the first time I saw my car steaming ...before that I almost knew nothing about car except driving.
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    BTW, for Saturn 2001 SL-1, under what temperature will the fan start to work? Thanks again!!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    About 210 - 220 F.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    now wait...you didn't say anything about your car "steaming" in your first post, did you?
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    Oh...I metioned that in my first post. The first problem I noticed of my car after the flood was the noise. The car dealership replaced the serpentine belt. Then after I drove home and idled for some while (no problem when driving), the car started steaming. And the warning light turned red, but at that time I did know what that light meant until I saw the steaming... I went to the dealership two times and finally they found the fuse of the fan was blown and the fan did not work...Now I might be too sensitive to the temperature, because I have been the dealership several times and don't want to go there any more...So I want to know the normal working temperature of 2001 Saturn . Thanks a lot!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Oh, I see...it WAS steaming but isn't steaming now, you are just a bit worried. Oh, okay....then yes, the temperature range you noted and the behavior of the fan seems normal to me as you described it.
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    thanks a lot :-)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You should continue to monitor the temperature gauge (if you have one). A fuse doesn't usually just blow. Something caused an above normal current flow to blow the fuse.. Something that could happen again and blow the fuse again. If it does blow again, you need to have the root cause of the excessive current flow determined and repaired.

    If you don't 'know what the light meant' (red light), you need to read your owner's manual cover to cover.
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    Thanks a lot ! So what are the common reasons to cause the fuse blown? I asked the car dealership when I had my car reparied, but they told me they did not know...THANKS AGAIN
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    Oh, my car was flooded and the serpentine belt was replaced before the fuse was blown...So is there any possibility that these kinds of things are related? Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Are you saying you car has had flood damage? Extensive water damage, has had a high level of water in the car????

    If so, your problems are just starting. This car will have a lot of problems throughout its life. Electrical problems. If water was in the engine and/or transmission, expect these to have a shortened life.
  • scaiscai Posts: 8
    There was no water in the car. I just drove through a puddle for a few mins in the parking lot. I hope there won't be so many problems .... :cry:
  • My Park ave is spitting its coolant out the exhaust.I am not talking a little bit either.Would the problem be the head gasket and if so is it worth fixing?I did not see any coolant in my oil as far as i could tell.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If it's the 3.8L non-supercharged engine it's probably the upper intake plenum warped. Easy check, remove the plugs, put a pressure tester on the rad, let it sit for a few minutes, then crank the engine over with the tester on. Coolant out of the plug holes = a warped plenum.
  • yes it is non super charged. if it is a warped plenum ,is it worth fixing? any idea what would that cost to fix?
  • Test the fan relay, cheap easy fix
  • Almost forgot - lol, The fan will cycle whenever the A.C. or Defrost is selcted. these 2 are on a different circut. I think you mentioned that the temp sensor worked, But alot of cars I see have more than one sender. (one for temp gauge) God forbid they make things easy by just using one! an easy way to test the sensor is to hold it (with pliers) over the stove briefly and check for continuity with a multi tester. Although I'd be willing to bet I'ts a fan relay. Also remember that the fan can start at anytime, keys or no keys so try to keep all your digits :) But on the bright side, you know your fan works. :) Good Luck!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Usually runs about $700.00.
  • bert79bert79 Posts: 4
    My truck heats up while towing about 6000 lbs while going up a modest grade. The temperature has reached 230 degrees on the guage and I get a warning beep and message to check guages. At this point, I will drop from 55mph down to maybe 40, sometimes even less to keep the temperature from climbing any higher. This problem occurs even after the cooling system was serviced by the dealer which included replacing the thermostat, replacing the coolant, and cleaning the radiator fins. The outside air temperature has been about 90 degrees. I don't think that I should have this problem with a Cummins Turbo Diesel, but this is my first truck and first time towing this much weight. Any ideas? is this normal? On interstate 80 going up to Lake Tahoe, I've had to drop down on the steeper portions to just 25 MPH to keep the truck from overheating.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Sounds like you should have a transmission cooler. Your truck is working harder at 5,000 feet, too and you've lost considerably horsepower. Also time to have the radiator flow tested.
  • bert79bert79 Posts: 4
    I'll keep the flow test in mind... about the transmission cooler, I have a printout from Dodge about all the equipment/options that were installed on my truck based on the VIN # and apparently my truck already has an "Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler".
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Okay, but I do wonder if it's a "real" one or some dinky add-on....nonetheless, let us presume that your truck is in fact engineered and certified to haul 3 tons behind you....this leaves us with a "slow overheat" which strongly suggests a coolant flow problem rather than a severe blockage. The thermostat was a bad guess given your symptoms. If your electric cooling fan wasn't working you'd overheat in normal traffic, so that's out. It almost has to be a radiator issue or a collapsing radiator hose (see if your hoses are very soft when you squeeze them). Also tire pressure is a factor here. A more remote possibility would be a very lean fuel mixture.

    But first off have an experience radiator man take a look in there and maybe you're just clogged up after 6 years of use.

    If you re-do the radiator and that doesn't work, you'll have to get a more serious trans. cooler....your transmission can send a great deal of heat to your radiator.
  • bert79bert79 Posts: 4
    Thanks very much mister Shift! This information will help me when I talk to the Dodge dealer again about the problem.
  • I recently had my truck service and cooling system flushed by the new car dealer, after this work was done it started to heat up whenever I let it idle like at signal lights and such. I replaced the thermostad, radiator, flushed the system myself and replaced the freon in the cooling system yet it still heats up when I let it idle. What could be causing this problem? I would appreciate any help you can give me to correct this problem. I thank you.
  • crankshaftcrankshaft OHIOPosts: 105
    my f150 is a little older than yours and was doing the same thing.my overheating at idle stopped after i replaced the fan clutch.i am not sure if you have one but it's something you want to check.
  • Not sure I did this right the 1st time....sorry :confuse:

    I have a 2000 XLT that started running Hot yesterday. If I turn on the heater I can keep it fom getting over heated. would this be a thermostat problem and if so, my question is, where to begin, how do I remove the air duct from the MAF sensor to the throttle body??? so that I might get to the thermostat housing. I believe I can finish after that. thank you
  • I have a '96 Intrepid, 3.5l that loses coolant somewhere, don't know where it goes, it is just gone. Have replaced the thermostat. Bought the car used and it looks like headgaskets have been replaced. Cooling fans (2) appear to be working at the appropriate time. Does anyone have some help for me? Is this a major or minor problem? Thanx.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You should have it pressure tested and put it on a rack.
  • What would they be looking for with a pressure test? also why put it on a rack?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You're looking for leaks by puttng the entire cooling system under pressure. You sometimes need to go up on a lift because you can't always see where the leak is coming from by observing from the top of the engine.

    You can only loose coolant two ways....burning it and leaking it.
  • My truck has been overheating for quite some time. Last year I had the thermostat, fan clutch, and some other cooling system items replaced. The radiator was also flushed, yet it still overheats? It takes me about 30 minutes to drive home in the evenings and the truck gets really close to overheating (about 240-250). If I run the air, it gets hot quick and would surely overheat, so I just do without. I live in Texas, so as you can imagine, it would be nice to have the A/C on the way home. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Flushing often doesn't work. It sounds like a circulation problem since it is a slow overheat.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Take a look at the water pump. Could be the impeller is eroded away or loose on the shaft.
  • I have a 93 nissan that has been having some problems of late. It started off with alot of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe but it mainly only did this when i would be goin about 55 and punch the gas to pass someone. This has stopped but the other day it over heated and i put some water in it. now my radiator has pushed all this nasty brown crap into the overflow tank and it has been leaking all over the place after i get done driving, The over flow tank went from being at the full line to completely full of this nasty stuff. I havent had time to flush it out but now it gets really hot and the overflow tank is almost empty again but my car sounds like its boiling tea water when i get done driving it. Someone suggested that this could be the start of a major problem and i really should start looking for new wheels since the car is not in great shape anyway. Any advice would help i also plan on replaceing the thermostate and flushing out the system this weekend,
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    White smoke out the tailpipe is usually coolant getting into a cylinder through a blown head gasket or cracked head. Check for the presence of combustion gases in the rad with the kit available at most parts stores.
  • Need some help with my 53 F100 that is running hot……hasn’t overheated yet but is very close. Here’s my story: I purchased a 1953 F100 with a GM drive train from a 79 Z28…electric windows, A/C and a fun ride that has a super paint job. I bought the truck as my daily driver after returning from 13 months in the sand box of the middle east (active duty Air Force) under the pretense the previous owner assured me it ran at 180 with the A/C on all day. Well the great day arrived as the car hauler pulled into my drive on a 95+ day in Fayetteville NC. Within minutes the temp hit 220 before the thermostat let go and the truck leveled out at 190 without the A/C on. I did the normal (remember this is the first time I’ve see the truck in person) check fluid levels, fan belt and leaks. Everything checked out and the truck hovered around 180 going down the road until I hit traffic when the temp inched up to 210 and I got back on the open road. I have flushed the system, changed the thermostat and even drilled 3 1/8 inch holes in it. The temp now climbs very slowly but still heads for the 210+ in traffic without A/C and close to 190 now at 65. The 14 inch flex fan (racing type) needs to go I’m sure and the half shroud does little in the way of allowing the full use of the re cored original 53 radiator. The fan is also fully inside the shroud which I believe is adding to the problem. I think the sending unit is working fine as the temp climb has now changed since I drilled the holes in the thermostat. One other issue might be the ability to allow the heat from the radiator out of the engine compartment as there are no louvers or vents?? The engine is all stock with factory manifolds and has a Weber 650. Pipes are super traps with custom made bends and no restrictions or sharp angles. Any suggestions as to what I need to do first on the temp issue would be much appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well with engine conversions you often need to add an auxiliary engine fan (electric). These mix 'n match systems often go awry. Obviously due to either the shroud or fan blade type or distance from fan to radiator or type of water pump, you aren't get the right heat exchange.
  • The shround is only a half circle and covers 30% of the radiator. The original rad has been redone but that was 4 years and 1900 miles ago. Would it be best to change out the radiator as it has an A/C condensor and a transmission cooler in front of it as well? I want to do this right the first time as this is my daily driver and being in military we cannot be late for roll call even if the beast over heated on the road.....thanks Bill
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You can have the radiator flow-tested at a radiator shop.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Where's a problem?

    You hit 210 degrees sitting in traffic. If your system is correctly pressurized, you are far below the 235 or 245 degrees where the system is truely overheating and going to push liquid past the rad cap.

    It all seems like like low air flow. If you could get a full shroud around the fan, I'll bet the temps would be lower.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    As has been mentioned, reaching 210F isn't that big a deal. Typical newer GM's run between 90-95C (195-203F), slightly higher with the AC on. Shrouding is important for effective cooling, as all incoming air should be pulled through the rad. What you have is a shield to prevent quick manicures. If you want improved cooling with your current setup, here's the best way to go:

    http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/electric-fans.html

    Note that almost all models are fully shrouded. They'll also help to pick up a few horsepower and improve fuel economy.
Sign In or Register to comment.