Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Cooling Systems -- Problems & Solutions (Radiator, Fan, etc)



  • How do the small heater core to manifold , and manifold to small by pass hose on thermosat housing, and radiator to heater core or manifold diagram or hose route needed, 2.5 liter 1989 S-10 , thank you [email protected]
  • having theating problem which temp gauge just keeps going up and have now found that radiator capacity is not enough for engine size... looking for replacement radiator, but has very close fitting measurements. anyone have any ideas, have tried some radiator places on line but radiators are to big. :( am I going to have to have a custom one built :confuse:
  • lad23lad23 Posts: 1
    The heater in my car has been blowing cold air for the past couple days. It has recently dropped below 20 degrees here and I parked my car outside for the first time a couple days ago. Is it possible that something could have frozen? Are there any negative effects of this occuring? The thermostat hovers at about the same level as before this issue arised. Please advise. Thank you.
  • What is the time frame for a water pump swap on a 1994 Honda Civic?
  • sivsiv Posts: 3
    Hi All!
    Vechicle have 98000 km.
    After change cool liquid, having problem pour liquid out of liquid bottle cap. Signal Lamp of low level cooling liquid is constantly ON.
    Level of cool liquid is about bottle MAX mark.
    Cap is properly closed.
    The Motor not overheating.
    Any suggestion how to fix the problem
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    check the thermostat first thing.

    Also check for air blockages. On some cars you have to pour the coolant in in a certain way to avoid air in the system. check owner's manual or workshop manual on how to do this.
  • sivsiv Posts: 3
    Thank You, Thermostat really closed,(lower hose to radiator stay cool), but also engine temperature in trip time is less then 95 deg.Celsius.
    Apropos, when thermostat must open
    (upon what themperature)?
  • sivsiv Posts: 3
    Hi all,
    New thermostat is not opens under cooling liquid themperature 95deg.Celsius.
    1. I want to check presence of air blockages in cooling system Chevrolet Cavalier (1997), after refill.
    How do this?
    2. If air blockages are presents - how extract them without drain cooling liquid ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Your thermostat isn't opening at 95 Celsius? Well that's your problem then. That's over 200 degrees farenheit---most open at 160-180 degrees farenheit.
  • sikeswsikesw Posts: 1
    I am having an issue with my 2002 Voyager where the radiator cooling fans are running all the time, even when parked and engine off. Anybody heard of this? I have to pull the fuse so the battery doesn't go dead.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    sounds like a bad relay somewhere, that is stuck.
  • ruckerrucker Posts: 1
    I have a 94 camry both fans just quit working, but if I turn on the a/c they work I believe it would be a relay, but at $73 for the one I believe it is I was hoping for another solution. I don't the test equip for checking relays and also really don't know how. $ is tight.
  • I need help answering what I'm sure is a really basic question...

    Recently I looked at a used 5 year Nisan for possible purchase. As the engine was idling in neutral after about 10 mins driving from a cold start, I stepped outside to examine the exterior and heard something under the hood suddenly "power on", similar to an air-conditioner unit or the refrigerator when the motor turns on.

    Was this in fact the radiator, and is this normal, to "power on and off"?

    I ask because I've never noticed anything like this in any other car in my life (not that I've ever listened for it).

    Thanks for your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    it's the AC compressor cycling on and off probably.
  • vadim3vadim3 Posts: 4
    Hi all,
    I want to remind: Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2L, 1997 has poured coolant via recovery tank cap.
    I replace the thermostat (at lower radiator hose)and properly extract air blockages - this is not solve the problem. After start engine get normal heating, opens water pumpt hermostat at coolant outlet (temp. - 90 - 95 Celsius), upper radiator hose get hot, but radator stay cold !? Lower radiator hose before thermostat too stay cold. Motor side thermostat housing is hot. Coolant temperature reach to 100 Celsius, cooling fan starting.
    Coolant begin flow from recovery tank cover...
    Coolant boil in bypass tube.
    All time "LOW COOLANT LEVEL" lamp is ON.
    Help me please.
    Thank you.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Could be. Also could be the cooling fan cycling on as the coolant warmed up.....
  • So whether it's the AC compressor or cooling fan, it's perfectly normal, right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well as I recall you said this happens with a cold engine, so AC cycling would be normal but cooling fan would not be normal. It doesn't sound like you meant a fan noise, which is pretty obviously noise....
  • vadim3vadim3 Posts: 4
    I have problem witch Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2L, 1997, 98000km.
    Problem: coolant poured out via recovery tank cap.
    All time "LOW COOLANT LEVEL" lamp is ON.
    Thermostat replaced (at lower radiator hose), cooling system refilled and properly extracted air blockages - this is not solve the problem. After start engine get normal heating, opens water pumpt thermostat at coolant outlet (temp. - 90 - 95 Celsius), upper radiator hose get hot, but radator stay cold !? Lower radiator hose before thermostat too stay cold. Motor side thermostat housing is hot. Coolant temperature reach to 100 Celsius, cooling fan starting. Motor oil is clean.
    Coolant begin flow from recovery tank cover...
    Coolant boil in bypass tube.

    Help me please.
    Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think you should test for a bad head gasket if you have boiling/pressure in the overflow tank. Not a good sign.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
  • vadim3vadim3 Posts: 4
    Could let me know how do test for a bad head gasket ?
    At which temperature should switch on the cooling fan?
    Is im possible to change old head gasket by itself ?
    (I have Cavalier Repair Manual from CHILTON and tools)
    My thermostat is "180F". It sometimes not opens
    P.S. Coolant is boil only if thermostat is not open at 97-100 Celsius.
    Thank you
  • I have a problem like yours on a 1998.

    Mechanic changed the thermostat, put on a new cap and etc. Ran the car on a computer for 2 hours and found nothing.

    Did a compression test...nothing wrong.

    The only thing actually found were the spark plugs were loose.
    Tightened them up and I will run the car to see if it makes a difference.
    Will let you know in a few days.
  • Well so far all is good. Mechanix said maybe because the spark plugs became loose made the engine run hotter...hence the problem.

    VRRRROOMMMMMMMMMMMM all engines okay. Im offfffffffffffffffffff

    have a good one
  • Did you find the problem with your constantly running fans on your 2002 Voyager? I am having the same problem.
  • vadim3vadim3 Posts: 4
    My problem is solved change 195F thermostat to new 180F thermostat. Presently all it's OK !
    Thanks for all
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I don't know what your problem was, but I don't think I would have put a 180degree thermostat in.

    The computer is programmed to expect to see about 195degrees when the motor is warmed up. With the lower thermostat, it may never see this temperature. Which means it may continue to run in a 'cold' mode, giving worse gas milage, run rich, etc, etc, etc.

    If you are having overheating problems, solve the overheating problem. The motor is designed to run at 195degrees, not something less.
  • binowtbinowt Posts: 3
    I just replaced the radiator on my 1986 300E and after 15 minutes of driving the needle on the temperature gauge started to bounce wildly and finally fell to zero, where it remains. Any idea what caused this to happen - di something come unplugged or is something broken? I really don't want to ride around not knowing the engine temperature.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    When doing a coolant change is just draining the radiator and refilling usually sufficient or should the entire system be flushed?

    Should coolant be routinely changed periodically or is it okay to test (for alkalinity/pH and freeze point) and leave it alone if the test shows it is still in good condition?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It's hard to flush the entire system and not really necessary unless your radiator is obviously filled with rust and scale (easy to see as you drain it).

    Presuming you have a clean system to start with, I'd flush out the radiator every two or three years maximum.
  • Just had oil change service on 2003 Ford Explorer Sport. Technician informed me it was using coolant and that there must be a leak somewhere, should be fixed right away. Vehicle has 28,000 miles on it. Tech said it would probably take a lot of persistence to get this fixed. Any suggestions as to how to go about doing that?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Pressure testing, and then look for leaks externally or if none, then pull the spark plugs and look for coolant on the plugs (that's a bad head gasket).
  • I own a 1993 Acura Legend and it has been registering Hot, especially when I turn the heat on. I had the thermostat changed twice and still it is running hot. Any suggestions!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Have you checked the electric cooling fan for proper operation--especially if your overheating is at idle or low speeds.
  • No, it over heats idling, driving with heater or air. The thermostat goes well beyond the red mark. Most of the time it will drop after about 1 to 2 minutes but it will go right back.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Hmm...I wonder if you car requires a bleeding procedure to get air blocks out of the cooling system whenever you drain the system and refill it?
  • flanguascoflanguasco Posts: 1
    I recently found that there is a constant accumulation of air in the radiator of my car, a Ferrari 308. I continued to bleed the circuit, from both the valves on top of the radiator and on the thermostat, but after a few miles of driving the air is again there.
    The cooling liquid is very clean so I don't think it is a problem of leaking head gasket. Could the air come in from the recirculation pump shaft? What should I check to find the cause of the problem?

    Thanks for your help.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think I would pressurize the cooling system manually with the right tool, and test for leaks and head gasket that way.
  • jmcvayjmcvay Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Mazda Millenia 2.5 V6, It is leaking coolant out of the Expansion tank overflow tube only after been ran for a few miles . When it is travelling or idling does not loose fluid, I have replaced the radiator cap it does not overheat while driving and the Thermostat appears to be working ok . If i idle it with the Radiator cap off it will blow coolant out of opening. No water in the Oil and not blowing white smoke out of the exhaust I have 104,000 miles on the vehicle.

    Any thoughts or help would be appreciated

    Thanks John.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well could be all kinds of thing. You might swap in a new thermostat. Does your cooling fan work properly?

    If your fan is working and the new thermostat doesn't help, you should pressurize the cooling system and pull the spark plugs and look for coolant on them. Pressure in your overflow tank isn't a good sign.

    If the pressure test doesn't show anything, you might have your radiator flow-tested to see if it's gunked up or corroded in there.
  • 37453745 Posts: 152
    For low level coolant light being always on even if coolant level is correct.

    Remove coolant recovery tank and flush it with water. A garden hose will do. Then shake the recovery tank. The sensor is a magnet in a float that closes a magnetic switch. The float tends to stick in its guides after some years. Shaking the tank will free it up.
  • Hi. New here, completely stumped and looking for advise... replaced radiator & temp sensor on '94 Olds C/S. Now neither cooling fan will come on. Checked fuse & relay w/ test light - both lit so.....What'd I do wrong?
  • mstar67mstar67 Posts: 3
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Wild guess - blown head gasket.

    If your oil is milky, foamy, or overfilled - these are indications of coolant entering the oil system. Possibly from a blown head gasket.

    Which is a severe problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Also could be a clogged radiator.

    SLOW overheat --- usually air circulation problem (fan, fan shroud, electric cooling fan, low coolant)

    FAST overheat ---- usually coolant circulation problem or blown head gasket, cracked head, etc.
  • czookczook Posts: 2
    :confuse: Please help me...I'm scratching my head on this one. My 98 Grand Caravan has a code that keeps telling me that there's a problem with the lower radiator fan circuit relay. We replaced it and it was fine for about a month then the same code came up. My husband has cleaned the contacts but it only "fixes" the problem for a few days. The car overheats and the A/C quits working just before it overheats. Please help...Summer is upon us and I can't drive in 100+ heat without A/C. Thanks. :confuse:
  • kappajenkappajen Posts: 11
    Hello. I have a 96 Plymouth Neon with about 190,000 miles and have noticed that when driving at high speeds (65-70) for and extended period of time my temperature gauge starts to creep up. I turn the heat on immediately (rather not wait to see how high it goes) and leave it on until it regulates itself. It goes back down to normal (about the middle). It doesn't do this when I'm driving in stop and go and I can hear the fan kick on if I'm sitting. I'm not sure what the cause could be. Six months ago I had a new water pump, timing belt and thermostat put on. Anyone's thoughts would be greatly apperciated. I've put about $2000 into this car (I's a neon) so I really don't want to have to dump anything more into it unless it needs it. Thanks so much.
  • koleykoley Posts: 4
    I don't have the answer for you, but I am having similar problems. I have a '95 Neon with 90,000 miles. When I go around a sharp corner to the left, my temperature gauge pegs and a chime goes off. As soon as I straighten out, the temperature goes back to normal (takes about 10 seconds). This is kind of scary because my car is beeping at me like it's going to self destruct, but the engine shows no sign of actually over heating. Is it physically possible for an engine to go from overheating stage to normal temperature in 10 seconds? If not, I must have some kind of electrical problem.
  • I have a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager and has numerous problems with the relay switch which keeps burning out. I was told it might be a shortage in the cooling fan assembly. I had it replaced but now it has gone back out again and the fan is not working. The van keeps running hot without the fan. The fan will usually run a couple of weeks then shorts out. Any suggestions what might be the problem?
  • 90bronc90bronc Posts: 7
    Our van runs fine until we turn on the A/C. The temp goes upalmost to redline. If I turn the A/C off the temp goes down to normal. This is a dual electric fan model. could the problem be in the coolant temp sensor? or something else? pls help
Sign In or Register to comment.