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That is exactly the reason I decided to try it for myself. Because these items are regarded as performance modifications they only list increased horsepower and performance ratings. I will admit that after putting them on I originally experienced lower mpg but that was because I was driving much more aggressively. But being an older driver I eventually returned to my original driving style and found a marked increase in fuel economy. Probably not enough to justify the costs unless I keep the car for 10+ years or gas goes to $4 a gal or more. I only commute 22 miles a day. But it does make the car a little more fun to drive.
Regards
Whitewolf
Considering gas will be over $4 a gallon this summer I'd say you don't have long to wait.
For decades, the aftermarket hot rod, racing and tuning communities have relied on oiled-media filters to free up that extra few horsepower. In fact, it's often one of the FIRST modifications many automotive enthusiasts do to their car.
This report shows, with empirical data and sound reasoning, why OEM filters perform better in a variety of areas.
Special thanks to Arlen Spicer and all others involved in making this information available."....
link title
Actually if you google, there are a lot of articles out there. On all the vehicles that I have when I have researched the subject of oil air filter media 100% have focused on the same issues. Indeed on the Z06 Corvette, the issues were the so called "snow prophalacytic" which in this example was a plastic cover which some would say "severely" limited air flow. Two solution cost literally ZERO, which in effect removed the prophalytic 1. cut round holes in the offending cover- use the oem air filter 2. remove the cover and cable tie the oem air filter . Dyno's were run and in addition dyno's was run with oil filter media and NO filter. There was literally NO statistical correlation, once the prophalacytic was "removed". Longer term the UOA's will speak for themselves. Greater contamination with the oil air filter media.
whitewolf,
I have been trying aftermarket products since my first car (39 Ford coupe) in 1956. Been involved with some type of "Performance" ever since then.
In days of carburetors, centrifical and vacumn advanced ignition timing, and so forth, there were indeed things that could be done to increase both performance and mileage.
With modern cars and the variable cam/valve timing, ignition timing, fuel delivery, while dealing with catalytic converters and the such; Times have Changed! Manufacturers spend seriously big bucks in their quest for both high mileage and performance. Their engineers spend all day, every working day, in an attempt to make things better and more appealing to the purchaser. They have the very latest equipment available to them.
The amounts as well as the timing of air flow into and exiting an engine are researched from every angle in controlled conditions. They are concerned with mileage, performance, and engine longevity.
Ever wonder why the performance models of various cars with the same displacement engines also have lower EPA ratings than their lower powered counterparts? There just are not any free lunches any more.
If a freerer flowing intake system would increase performance and fuel mileage while maintaining longevity and meeting EPA standards, you can bet the farm that Honda, Toyota and others would jump all over them. They are in the performance, mileage, and durability business. Occasionally, with all their experience, testing, and equipment they are able to actually improve both performance and mileage.
Wonder why a Ram intake and freerer flowing air filter are not in the mix?
We like to think that getting a bit more intake noise from the engine and a lot more noise from the exhaust is increasing performance. We have been told that it does, and it sounds like it does. I would love to see certified charts and grafts proving the horsepower and mileage gains, throughout the RPM range of a Ram intake vs a stock one. The amount of contaminates through a K&N type filter vs OEM would be great, along with its charts of gain. Show me that and I will be in line to get them. Performance is in my DNA. However, I'm no longer interested in gaining a few HP at red line while giving up mileage and longevity.
Gotta keep in mind that simply saying an engine produces 10 additional horse power can be very misleading. Is that 10 HP at redline? What happens in the rest of the RPM range. Do we normally drive the car at that extra HP range of RPM?
I've got a tackle box full of lures >"Guaranteed" , by the manufacturer, to catch more fish. They don't. A drawer full of kitchen knives that never get dull, they do! A government that says taking guns away from law abiding citizens reduces crime, it doesn't.
In '96 I bought a new Dodge ram with the 360Cubic Inch V8. In '97 a close friend bough a new Ram with a 318 cubic inch V8. They felt about the same in everyday driving. Eventually, We just had to test them against each other. There was a safe place to do that. There was enough room to reach about 90mph before brakes became necessary We tried them 3 times. We left the line pretty much neck and neck and held positions the entire time. Twice I beat him by about 1/2 a truck length. Once he beat me about the same. So we figured it to be a wash. I had a bit more torque for towing, but he got a bit better mileage and for everyday driving there was no real difference in performance. He then spent about $300 in a "Cat Back" dual exhaust system with some type of free flow and great sounding. mufflers that were "Tuned" to the system. Of course, that meant another test.
Again 3 tries. This time by 60 mph I was ahead about 3 truck lengths. Near the finish line he began to gain, but I still beat him more that a full truck length, All 3 times. What we learned is that the exhaust apparently did give him some gain at high RPM but he lost considerable torque at lower RPM. Later he told me that when towing his boat the tranny shifted a lot more than it did with the stock exhaust. His truck still "Sounds" good. :shades:
Obviously you are happy with your purchases. And that is a good thing!
Kip
In order to get the highest mileage I use techniques like: Keeping tire pressure slightly high, Dusting out air filter with compressed air, cleaning spark plugs with wire brush and alcohol, keeping unneeded weight out of car, coasting down hill in N with 5 speed only, traffic light timing so I dont have to stop the car, Drafting be hind Semi's on the freeway(somewhat dangerous at close distances), buying gas in the morning so you get the most fuel, driving 55-60 instead of 75mph. I estimate that in my car Highway driving speeds and mileage as follows:
55MPH gets about 47MPG
60MPH gets about 45MPG
65MPH gets about 41MPG
70MPH gets about 36MPH
75MPH gets about 32MPH
80MPH gets about 31MPG
85MPH gets about 30MPG
90MPH gets about 28MPG
95-100MPH gets about 26MPG
Also A/C kills about 1-3 MPG
Taking it easy in town I have gotten 40MPG
an tearing the tires up I have gotten 28MPG
Sitting at Idle burned about 3.5 gallons in 5 and a half hours with A/C on. :shades:
(range of fill from 9.186-10.47 gals) ( 38.39, 40.9, 38.94, 38.99, 39.63 mpg, tire pressure 35 psi F/R)
Geez winter is tough on mpg! :lemon: we can't wait till they sell the NON winter blends! (aka, 1-2 mpg better) :shades:
Just changed the air filter @ 61,000 miles (OEM recommended, 30,000 miles). The oem provided air filter with 4 miles on the clock was dirty, but not overly so. The clean side was literally dust less with even a white cloth (soapy water) wipe down.
I will say that if I'm just cruising down the highway at ~67-69 mph, I can easily get 35+ mpg. my last 2 tanks have been just that, and I've gotten 35.1 and 35.8 mpg (respectively). Not bad for an Si, considering the EPA range was estimated at 28-31.
Where I get hit for mpg is around town (stupid stoplights...), and anytime I decide to play for more than just a few seconds... hehehe if I'm driving aggressively with the engine (sticking well above 4k rpms), I can easily cut mpg down to 25 if I'd like to (normally don't, just for how expensive that would get...)
That's really good because my 2008 Si hasn't gotten better than 26mpg ever! I drive it pretty carefully and 70 mph on the highway. We don't have much city here so that's a minor issue.
I'd love to be getting 32mpg! Maybe once it's broken in and not using winter fuel.
Hopefully, since last 2 tanks with leadfoot lucy (my wife) driving it have gotten 18.? and 19.? mpg! :sick:
Oh and I use the same gas station and try for teh same pump each time. I think I will switch brands next fillup and see if it helps.
'08 manual LX, btw
Just changed the air filter 61,000 miles (OEM recommended, 30,000 miles). The oem provided air filter with 4 miles on the clock was dirty, but not overly so. The clean side was literally dust less with even a white cloth (soapy water) wipe down. "...
Average for app a 1000 miles trip to LA and back, after the oil change and 60k maintenance interval , was 39.67 mpg. LA is of course legendary for traffic jams.
I just joined this site today and have been reading through some of these posts.
I have a 2007 Civic Coupe EX. It has only 3000 miles on it so far and i bought it new in august.
Ive been monitoring my mpg at each fill-up and it has yet to even see the 30mpg that it claims to get in the city, let alone highway. I am usually getting between 25-28mpg. My ration is probably around 60%city/40%highway.
Anyone else run into this problem? I am not an aggressive driver, i gradually accelerate from a stop, and on the highway I am usually around 70mph. Just wondering why im not receiving the mileage i should be per gallon. Any ideas?
Thanks you
..."I am usually getting between 25-28mpg"...
I see that others do get the same mileage as I am now. I'm thinking I may just need to get some more miles on it and get it broken in.
I'll also agree that over time, the longer i've had my car the better the mpg have been... probably an improvement of about 1-2 mpg in the average since I first bought her.
35 psi is NOT "over inflated". My owners manual basically says 35 psi is the recommendation for so called high speed operation.
They of course (boiler plate) do not recommend going over the speed limits.
Though I think what really helps me the most is keeping my speed down... at 68 mph cruising, I get ~35 mpg. Today I drove some friends back from the airport going ~65, and got 36 mpg. When I go 70-75 or so, it drops to 30-32. So I think speed is probably the biggest player for me. The limit is 75 mph here in CO, but people don't really mind me going slower as long as I stay in the right lane.
but in any case, doing what i've been doing works really well for me. I'm economical when I want to be, and when I want to play, that option is very wide open to me -- which I frequently take advantage of...
Of course one can pick and chose what variables to pay attention to or ignore for a host of reasons. One can employ ZERO to all techniques. This thread is a good place for discussion.
I'm not sure what that does for the fuel, engine, environment, etc. though... Is that what you were referencing about high-altitude fuel blends?
I then increased the tire pressure to 35 psi and the weather permitted me to run without AC and have averaged 37 MPG for the last 7000 miles. Some of this gain is the tire pressure, but a lot is due to not running the AC. My driving is 80% highway commute. I live in Dallas, so the highway miles include a lot of stop and go. I generally drive between 40MPH and 60 MPH and never go over 65 MPH. I think all of you that get less than 30 mpg either are driving a lot of city miles or drive with a heavy foot.
Worst tank: 19.6 MPG
Best tank: 44.3 MPG
Average: 34.7 MPG
Generally, I've been averaging 28-29 MPG in city driving, which is suburban driving for me. On the highway, I can get 42-43 MPG if I set the cruise control at 65 MPH. At 75 MPH I get 37-38 MPG.
The last fill we did on a 2004 (approaching 62,000 miles) was 39.9 mpg, @ 10.9 or 435 miles. This would translate to 519 miles (13 gal with 13.2 gal capacit) . My take is when the fuel lamp is lit, ya best be looking to fuel. But even I have to admit part of this is " the game". Funny how the ones who probably know and care the least about cars are the ones who takes the greatest chances of running out of fuel. Today not only is running out of fuel dangerous, but it can cost you more due to potentially failed parts.
I agree! A car is going to get a given MPG, whether we wait until it is running on fumes, or gas up with a couple of gallons, or more, still in the tank.
Kip
I bought my LX last saturday.
What kind of gas I have to fill? Is it regular unleaded?, Thanks
It is best however to take the time to both go over the oem owner's manual and spend some time understanding how your car is physically laid out-especially under the hood for at least the minimum stuff : like, battery, brake, windshield washer, oil, coolant, power steering, auto/manual trans- FLUIDS. etc., etc.
Question. How often do you guys change the air filter? I saw today on Good Morning America that you should change it at every oil change. They said it improves gas milage by 15%.