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BTW, I rarely let my tank get below 1/4 full. The in-tank, submerged fuel pump relies on being bathed in fuel to keep it cool, so it's best to keep some gas in the bottom of the tank between fill-ups.
I also just had my first oil change this week, so we'll see what switching out the break-in oil and putting in Mobile 1 Synthetic does for mileage (probably nothing measurable, I'd guess). I'll be putting about 1500 miles on the car over Christmas holidays. My oil life indicator was at 40% with 4326 miles, but with the long trip coming up, I didn't want to wait until after the holidays to do the first change.
Well, to be more specific what is important is estimating how far the civic will go before running out of gas when the "E" light comes on. I have no accurate way of telling if 13.2 gal is actually in the tank the way I fill, nor if it varies much for different pumps. Actually unless the driving conditions are unusual I can expect 400 miles between refills without problems.
Gas stations can be few and far between, but not much city driving so at over 8000 miles I am averaging over 40 mpg since new.
With over 50 years of driving, I've found the safest range is when the needle gets to the 1/4 tank mark.
People have gotten stranded figuring that out!
Kip
FWIW, even though my wife and I have only been driving for 35 years each, we've covered over a million and a half miles combined. Couple that with the fact that I used to be a professional wrench and worked on MANY cars and I think I might have some empirical observations to offer in this discussion as well.
So, what do I think about the quarter of a tank recommendation? Way too conservative. I've never seen any scientific or empirical evidence that suggests that driving a modern car (with an in-tank fuel pump) down to the "E" mark will harm anything in a car. Yes, yes, I've heard all of the arguements about picking up debris from the bottom of the tank and about needing to cool electric fuel pumps with the gasoline, however, virtually every car on the road these days has enough of a reserve capacity beyond "E" to cover those issues.
My advice? Drive the car until you show "E" and then fill'er up. The only exception to this rule that I follow is when I'm heading out on a long trip (where I fill up almost regardless of how much fuel is in the tank), or when there is a question of fuel availability (kind of a "bird in hand..." scenario).
Best Regards,
Shipo
For the Civic that is around 1/4 tank (it appears to read about right anywhere below 1/2 tank) to be on the safe side.
Since I have a diesel, even on longer trips passing into some of America's remote deserts, it is a no brainer to let it go till the fuel lamp and buzzer goes off, as I know from several data sources there is at least 2.4 gals or app 100-142 miles to go. Depending on how one drives the range can be from 700-826 miles.
I also am mindful of the 1/4 tank metric, especially on my SUV in the snow. I have been on those snow trips that are supposed to take 3.5 hours and wind up taking 10 hours. Naturally EVERYONE else is running out of fuel as I am....Of course you line up at the only mountain fuel station for miles around and get into line and think lets head to the restroom,... which is already 43 folks deep.
Reminds me of a filling stop I made once on the way to San Diego, CA. The attendant came out of literally an old 1950's style room and insisted on pumping the gas. Since he was going to monitor the process I asked where his rest room was. He sort of hesitated and then the lights came on and pointed in the direction and said the odd house was over there. Sure enough when I went in it WAS an odd house. I was half way expecting Rod Sterling to surface and announce the next episode of the Twillight ZONE!! :shades:
I was replying to a poster that said:
"I guess the safe range to refuel is 400-450 range"
I replied with : "With over 50 years of driving, I've found the safest range is when the needle gets to the 1/4 tank mark. People have gotten stranded figuring that out!"
In other words keep an eye on that fuel gauge, not the number of miles driven.
Hopefully that will help undo your confusion!
"I'm trying to figure out how you came to that conclusion."
In my younger and more "foolish" years I got stranded for several hours at night with a wife and baby in the car because I thought I had enough gas, but didn't. That gas station that was supposed to be open wasn't!
As with you, I have also turned a few wrenches in my life, for a living. That has nothing to do with running out of fuel because we chose to let it get too low. Where the fuel gauge is located is not a concern of mine, and has nothing to do with my post.
I don't believe believe that keeping at least 1/4 tank of fuel is "Way too conservative" as you put it. I don't care to run on the ragged edge. I have no problem pulling into a station at 1/4 tank, like you have no problem pulling in when the light comes on.
Here are a couple of other things I believe.
I would much better have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
From the Harley Folks. "If I have to explain it, you probably won't understand".
Regards,
Kip
When I have taken the Civic, I get app 38/40 mpg. More normally, I take a Jetta TDI and depending on speed, get 48-52 mpg as a comparison. I generally go slower in the (gasser) Civic, as it is not as road worthy, nor gets as good fuel mileage as the TDI Jetta. I swag if I drove it like the Jetta I'd lose maybe 1-3 mpg. Conversely, I swag if I drove the TDI Jetta like the Civic, I'd gain anywhere from 2/3 mpg better.
Average mpg according to logs was 34mpg in a relatively heavy highway use at 70mph. No problems except for a buzzing in the headliner and a clanging noise in the front door (when you shut the back door.....). Dealer was performing first service at 6,400 miles (25% on OLI) and fixing the headliner buzz when the deal was struck.
The good news is I don't travel nearly as much for the next few months so I'm going to spend that time finding a formidable replacement. Most likely a very very well maintained, mint, used TDI. The bad news is whatever driving I do will be in either my gas guzzling Odyssey or Tundra. C-ya on the TDI forum Ruking1.
While I do not think the new 35 mpg, 2020 standard has started to necessarily firmed up prices for THOSE vehicles that do in fact GET 35 mpg NOW, for my .02 cents it makes sense to have at least one vehicle (going forward) that does in fact get app 35 mpg.
If I was on the market for a used TDI, it would be probably for a used 2003 Jetta/New Beetle/Golf (boring I know) or some variant of the MB E320 diesel. Not to rag on VW, but I am alright with bypassing the TDI PD engine. However I am lead to believe the 2006 (TDI) had a huge jump in quality. Some say it approaches BMW quality. I have gone to the local show room to see them and watched almost in horror as the salesman climbed on to hang off an opened drivers side door, but since there was no CA TDI didnt really want to take one (gasser) out.
I'm looking for a '06's. Really like the bigger car and features. Neighbor has an '05.5 manual with close to 100k and no issues. Except he got rear-ended too, but just needed a crush panel and bumper cover.
Cool, somebody came up with a mechanical version of Snake Oil. :P
Rate wind/road noise....that's a tough one. Compared to what? The Civic isn't' the quietest car by a long shot, but probably not bad compared to other economy cars. I didn't notice it being considerably more obnoxious at 80mph vs 70mph. Tire noise was a bit annoying which I'm sure could be fixed with some better tires. IMHO, the Civic is a bit jumpy at those higher speeds though. The steering is a bit over-assisted which also isn't as attractive at high speeds. 70mph felt like the sweet spot to me and that's about where I kept it. It was also rather easily effected by cross wind, again probably more obvious due to the steering feel.
IMHO, you need a heavier, more substantial vehicle to really feel secure AND quiet at 80mph.
Let us know how that $200 upgrade works out for ya.
Gosh, I haven't heard that term in years. But, Shipo hit the nail on the head. "Snake Oil"!
Many moons ago, traveling salesmen would show up in small towns, with their wagons of goods. . A very popular one, especially among the men, would be selling a product in a bottle that they said would cure most anything that might be ailing you.
They said the contents were from some exotic plant or far away country and had mystical healing powers. Of course it didn't work, but people bought it on the hope that it would. The alcohol and lace of Cocaine (legal back then) would help with pain temporarily. So people kept buying it. It became known as "Snake Oil".
The practice of promising anything, we need to hear, still goes on today. It is call "advertisement", and of course Political platforms.
Don't ya think that a Gizmo that would convert water to a burnable fuel would be on every car in the world. Or that the patient would have been bought up by "BIG OIL" and never heard of again? Save your money! "Snake Oil" doesn't work!
Me thinks blufz1 is also "Dead On"! 40mpg at 80mph seems like a bit of a stretch!
Kip
Very disappointed, passed on the 08 Accord to get the mileage and not getting the claimed mileage. Asked my service and sales people and was told that those numbers were probably pretty accurate and what I should expect. The extreme mileage claims were pretty much a stretch.
I've also seen that mileage seems to go down rapidly above the 67-70mph cruise mark. Steep or rolling hilly terrain can also make a big dent in mileage, as does frequently varying speed. Which is why I use the cruise control on the highway whenever possible - it's actually very good at maintaining 65-70mph without varying engine rpm much at all (unless large steep hills get in the way). I have a 2007 automatic EX sedan.
As for wind and road noise. The civic is not the quietest small car on the market, but it is far from the noisiest. Since it's really a pretty subjective question, I'll just say the noise in my civic does not bother me at all. The stereo amply overrides any background noise, and the options of radio, CD and my iRiver mp3 player mean I'm always listening to something I choose and not paying any attention to background noises.
Why is it that Honda chose the 205/55/16 tires over the 205/60/16 or 205/65/16 size? I actually like the larger sidewall that a 65 series tire offers which seem sturdier in my opinion and also don't like the fact that the 55 series tires are also more expense than the other two sizes mentioned above?
Does anyone have a logical answer for my question? Thanks.
The Sandman :confuse:
- The 205/55 HR16 tires will provide much more responsive handling than the other two.
- The 205/55 HR16 tires have a 24.9" tire diameter, which matches the diameter of 15" wheels that come on the DX, LX, and 17" wheels that come on the Si models (all Civics need tires of this size due to the programming of the ABS system as well as to allow correct readings on the speedometer and odometer).
- The 205/60 HR16 tires that you might prefer have an outside diameter of 25.7" which would cause your speedometer and odometer to read incorrectly.
- The 205/60 HR16 tires that you might prefer are not always "H" rated tires (your car requires at least an "H" rating).
- The 205/65 HR16 tires that you might prefer have an outside diameter of 26.5" which would cause your speedometer and odometer to read incorrectly.
- The 205/65 HR16 tires that you might prefer are NOT typically "H" rated tires until you step into the more expensive tires in this size (I only saw 4 tires on the market in that size with an "H" rating).
I hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Standard rule of thumb:
- Get in the car
- Start the car
- Click on your seatbelt
- Release the parking brake
- Put the car in gear
- Drive off, keeping engine RPMs and vehicle speeds conservative until the temperature gauge notches up a couple
Best Regards,
Shipo
Still, seriously, yes, I agree. Normally a warmup period purely at idle is unnecessary and a waste of fuel. The car will warm up much faster if moving at moderate speed anyway. I've noticed that with the civic - it will take ages for the temp. indicator to start moving if you just sit idling. But it will rapidly warmup to operating temp. once you start driving.
I happen to agree, I have to have the windows so i can see out of them and will gladly waste the fuel to get the ice off of them. I usually start the car and remove the snow and ice then drive off. It's no good if I get into an accident at the first intersection.
Worse still are the SUV's that NEVER clean their roofs and they have 12 inches of snow almost always iced over on the top and when that comes off at highway speeds it's enough to shatter a windshield!
Having an SUV means never having to drive responsibly I guess. :sick:
I too have a "thing" about driving when I cannot see further than the dashboard.
Best Regards,
Shipo
While I did start to get 35-40 mpg from the get go (38-42 mpg daily commute now), the conditions overall have been a. consistent b. much less demanding than I perceive yours to be. c. by default, driving within the break in parameters
Secondly, gassers by design do NOT have a certain mpg for all reasons and seasons. Indeed a certain VARIANCE is the rule, NOT the exception. The problem of course is when one thinks the lack of variance should be the rule and not the exception.
If you read the fine print on YOUR new car sticker, there is a huge ( range) variance, even as they state the EPA city/highway, which in itself shows variance. So for example, mine says EPA 29 C/38 H. The fine print goes on to say: between 24-34 city and 32-44 highway. The "for comparison shopping" fine print drones on to say: COMPACT 13-48 city, 19-51 highway. So it being new, not only is the vehicle breaking in (and for my .02 cents I did make a concerted effort to break the car in correctly) ,experiencing winter conditions, YOU are getting used to the car and (maybe/maybe not) making adjustments.
So I would concentrate on break in (and your adjustments to it). Good break in can be important to longevity (my goal is app 450,000 miles) One thing I would do, oxymoronically is to rev the engine closer to red line (75% of red line if you are not comfortable with the concept) every so often when you can. I would also just start the vehicle and go as soon as possible after start up. Whether you make driving adjustments is really up to you, but it is usually the single most important factor once you understand your particular vehicle.
Of course, the electrical rear window defrost did it's job in less then a minute, but I didn't want a stiff neck from driving backwards for the first mile or so, so I waited
To state the obvious, the overwhelming majority of participants in this poll (77.02%) get between 24 to 36 mpg. The mode (21.27%) get 27 to 30 mpg.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/mpg/MPG.do?action=browseList2&make=Honda&model=Civic
So really it would take far more effort to get the data in more usable form with the smaller sample than the larger sample. So in the sense it would be interesting to see if the smaller sample was indicative of the larger sample or even differences in variance.
p.s. ive been averaging about 43 mpg in my 2004 civic overall.
We all have our priorities and often times will go out of our way to justify them.
Personally, my everyday scoot around car needs to be inexpensive to purchase, economical, easy to park/maneuver, and low maintenance.. However for highway trips we are more concerned with comfort and room. So we take the Pilot, which gets considerably less mileage than the scoot car.
If we only had one car and it was too noisy, we would probably consider trading for a compromise
It is about priorities!
Kip
Indeed just looking at the raw data, it is amazing how Congress really expects the OEMS to really put a 35 mpg AVERAGE SET of vehicles out there when one of the best current (non hybrid) ones has a hard time getting any consistency. I mean EPA of 29/38 is way good!!! Yet there is still a variance of 24%!!?? Yet on the other hand they try and succeed in banning Jetta's TDI that gets EPA 42/48 !!!?? This seems not to be really about 35 mpg. This seems to be really about significanly increasing the cost per mile driven.
..."What We Liked: Good ride quality and low tread noise
What We'd Improve: Road handling and wet traction
Conclusion: A quiet, comfortable tire that lives up to its name
Latest Test Rank: 2nd (June '06) "...
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/TireTestServlet?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=- - - - - Assurance+ComforTred&tirePageLocQty=%26partnum%3D87TR4ACT%26i1_Qty%3D4&vehicleSe- - - - - arch=true&index=3
Not to rain on your parade, but is that increase in power, features, etcand almost for sure massively more $ bux., which you will probably marginally use, or have nothing to do with good fuel mileage or noise reduction: worth all those disadvantages?
Add:
will not give the public data IN digestible forms or useful formats even if it is at taxpayer expense