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But in the context of your latest post, surely you would agree that decision, choice, (some folks are true "forced" as you noted) is for the consumer to make. I would hate for this to turn into a quasi (GUN) control type of issue/environment.
What I am saying in the diesel context is the regulators should actually reverse themselves and make diesels(higher mpg vehicles) even more readily available, ESPECIALLY in the SUV/4WD. segment, i.e., better mpg for one minor reason. The regulators actually want that segment to consume MORE, even as they oxymoronically press that segment to use LESS.
Despite ANTI SUV criticism of almost RAT like growth ( in a food rich environment) SUV's are at an historical high of 12% of the population after 3 decades!!! Further unless we all have NOT been paying any attention, the new SUV buying is in almost radical steep decline.
Civic Real World MPG here, please.
So for example, one disconcerting thing was to get used to (letting) the automatic transmission that (seems to) want/s to shift gears almost all the time, shift when it wanted given a particular RPM or throttle position.
I have owned Hondas for the last 6 years, and passed them on to my kids. Actually this Civic gets worse MG than my 04 and 96 Accords.
I am going to take it into the dealer for review, but am pretty sure that I have what I have and will simply need to get over it.
BAd deal for $19K
Best Regards,
Shipo
Bring on the diesel!
My mileage has recently fallen (roughly, I'm not keeping detailed records) to the high 20's. I attribute this to hilly back roads with a lot of stop signs and lights, shorter commuting distances, cold weather, and ethanolized gas. I'm not accelerating any harder or speeding any more than previously.
I submit this as one demonstration of external conditions playing a major role in mileage. Hope this is helpful to people who are unhappy with their mileage and not finding other explanations.
While we are back to a more normal commute after the (winter) holidays, the Civic is at the low of the range, 37/38 mpg vs a more normalized 38-42 mpg.
On the diesel side (VW Jetta TDI- EPA 42/49 mpg), we are also at the low of the range, 48 mpg vs a more normalized 48-52 mpg. The Civic is also app 450#'s LIGHTER.
Rupnok1..."I submit this as one demonstration of external conditions playing a major role in mileage. Hope this is helpful to people who are unhappy with their mileage and not finding other explanations"....
I have been observing this for a while (50,000-59,000 miles), and knew (before purchase) the Civic (EPA 29/38 mpg) was particularly suited (for a gasser) for this commute task; but it truly seems the Civic is OPTIMIZED for the 27 mile (80/90% highway 20/10% city) 40-90 min daily commute; if our more "normalized mpg" (38-42 mpg) results are any indication. We truly do nothing special in the way of fuel savings techniques, other than keep up and anticipate (as to not accelerate like a bat out of hell, and panic stop: praying we dont slam into the car in front)
Or, spend $50-70 and get a block heater (installation will add more of course) and a timer. That's what I used to use on my Chevy cavalier in Rimouski, Quebec back in the mid 1990's (and we routinely had Jan-Feb daytime highs of around -20C to -40C (once I remember wind chills of -90C being reported). I would have the timer trip the block heater on 40-60 minutes before I started the car, then get in, start up and drive off (sold that car with over 115K km's on it and still running superbly, despite all the cold weather operation).
Fact: Extended idling while on the rich "cold" circuit dumps significant amounts of gasoline into the cylinders, and much of that gasoline finds its way into the oil causing fuel dilution of the oil (a very bad thing).
Fact: Idling while on the rich "cold" circuit will negatively impact fuel economy.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I keep it within 5mph of the speed limit and use cruise control. Mot of our roads here where I am are empty and it's too easy to go 10mph over. I can easily use 5th or 6th gear and keep RPMs around 2,000 rpms on the back roads.
Sad part is with all the cops around and the way I have to drive so slow nowadays I really feel like I should have bought a Prius which makes the most of driving slow and boring.
Oh first tank was 25 mpg but no idea if the dealer really filled it.
[donning my cynic hat]
Yeah, and my grandmother's third cousin's (twice removed) ex-boyfriend's step-brother ran his car 100,000 miles without changing the oil and it was still running. Were it not for that semi that ran the car over I'm sure it would have made it to 101,000 miles too.
[shedding hat]
If you had sent your oil in for analysis I suspect that you'd be singing a different tune. True, you may well have shed yourself of those cars before any troubles occurred, however, extended idling in cold weather is a great way to trash your oil and by extension your engine. Please, don't take my word for it, verify it yourself via scientific methods.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Best Regards,
Shipo
Manual transmission: 26city/34highway/29 combined
Automatic transmission: 25city/36highway/29combined
This reflects the much lower cruising (highway) RPM of the automatic as compared to the manual. I think the auto runs at least 1K RPM lower at any given highway speed. So, yes you are correct in thinking the automatic would give you better economy at the higher than normal speeds you drive.
For the sake of this conversation we own a 2006 EX sedan automatic and it gets 24+ mpg summer, and 22 mpg or so winter in the short commute my wife has. Typically it returns about 35-36 mpg strictly highway at 70-72 mph. This is a 29.5 mpg (or so) average.My observation is that it adheres closely to the 2008 EPA estimates. This is much more realistic than the 30 city/40 highway EPA sticker the car had in 2006.
Morning temps here lately have been around 10 deg or a bit lower. The manual civic idles at around 1300 rpm at startup which is way too fast for my driveway in low gear. So as a compromise I let it idle until water temp is 70 deg (several minuets) where closed loop operation starts and bounce along using the clutch to slow down. Idle is around 1000 rpm after the 300 yds to the hwy.
Any suggestions what might be better for the engine?
As an example, last year I was working at a place that had the parking lot that was literally a couple of hundred yards from the freeway ramp. When the engine was cold (as in pretty much anything below 40), especially on sub zero days, I would start the engine, put it into gear and gingerly drive out of the lot. On that car I would simply keep the RPMs under 3,000 while accelerating up the ramp and bringing it up to speed.
A couple of FWIWs:
1) I was usually able to get up to freeway speeds without exceeding 2,500 rpms, however, due to traffic I allowed 3,000 when necessary.
2) I always use "0W-" synthetic oils which flow much faster when extremely cold.
3) Virtually every expert on the subject of automotive design and maintenance will tell you the same thing I did, "start the car and drive it carefully until it warms up".
Best Regards,
Shipo
While I realize the "drivers" so to speak are preference, convenience, low premium, the fact that there are a population (to a majority) of drivers who truly do not know how to drive a manual ; I think from a longer term and how many highway miles you do put on your vehicle, that a manual is really the ticket. I am sure you would agree, there are literally a host of reasons.
I say this from the point of view of having an automatic (for convenience) Honda Civic, 54 miles R/T daily commute, mpg range between 38-42 mpg. My swag would be +plus 2 mpg (40-44 mpg) with the manual. This would equate to app 79 gals saved over 60,000 miles.
The engine warms up much more rapidly with a load on it then at idle, so driving off (not punching the throttle to redline obviously, but moderating rpms) promptly just means the engine gets up to temperature that much faster. The faster that happens, the less fuel gets wasted relative to a cold engine running a rich mixture at idle.
As you mention, the real problem some days is the dang windows fogging up too thickly and quickly to allow you to just start up and drive off safely. But that's basically my limiting deciding factor about how quickly I pull away after firing my civic up in the morning.
When you think about it, at idle you are getting 0mpg, so unless it was essential for the longevity and well being of the engine, which it's not, what's the point?
Civic block heaters sell for about $60.00 on the www. Do dealers in places like N. Dakota or Minnesota not put them in all their vehicles by default? A block heater can make a big difference in the time it takes the car to get up to operating tempature, especially once temps get well below freezing.
If I don't use the pre-heater the fuel consumption easily exeeds 23mpg (17l/100km) during the first two miles.
I'l keep on that 17 liters / 100km
37.2 mpg driving very careful
36.2 mpg with the wife driving some of, and driving the car hard to see if it was sporty
33 mpg warming it up a couple mornings, and the wife driving some it too
i will post more as i refill it more and more.
but i am loving this car and at 36-37 mpg and that mostly back roads, driving 40-50 mph i think it has potential, but i admit i baby it and drive it very easy.
any tips for improving mileage i am open
K=N???
drop in or cold air intake??
Best Regards,
Shipo
Don't start messing with the car. It is designed with longevity and mileage in mind. If a different type of intake would have improved anything, Honda would have used it.
I had increased my mpg by 3 city and 2 highway. I chose a Ram intake because of snow/puddles in my area (2007 civic coupe). My son had a cold air intake installed on his 2006 civic and has not experienced any problems with snow or water. But no mpg readings on his because he is a teenager.
Shipo and KipK you guys should really try some aftermarket products before you discourage their use. You have been around here for awhile and people do listen to you.
FWIW, at wide open throttle, I might buy that your engine will be able to breathe a little better, but at the miniscule throttle setting that you use for day to day driving, no, CAIs, Rams, coffee can mufflers and other bolt ons do nothing to improve fuel economy, in fact, it is quite often the other way around.
Best Regards,
Shipo