Edlebrock shocks was installed within the first month of ownership on my '00 Silverado. Ride quality and handling improved over stock. Only thing that was a little hard to justify was the price. Best price I had found was at shockwarehouse.com at $69.95 each. KYB also produces great shocks. If I had to do it again I would go with the KYB's at half the price. When I had upgraded, KYB did not have the shocks for the Silverado. I believe that they now do. Good luck!
Congratulations on that new truck!! Hope to see ya around. If ya need a MPC smoke colored bug shield (used 1 month) cheap e-mail me (cubuffs@us.ibm.com).
To Obyone and Ryan: I have p275R16 with Alumin.rims. They are Firestone Wilderness At.Tires Good ride so far!
Now to Eadeneris: Math is just a bunch of numbers that can be manipulated however you want them to be. Remember the Mars mission! Math Killed it. Just kidding! The Tach numbers were very close since what I did was drive to Identically equipt vehicles. One with a 4.10 and the other with 3.73.
I drove the same road and everything and I set the the cruise at 75 mph on both vehicles for 2.5 miles. I did this to see what the difference would be with the rearends. It was more like 400-500 excuse me. Point is the difference was more than 1.66 or whatever the math said it would be. Long distance it will add up. I mentioned this to the dealer when I got back and he said he figured it was around 400 rpm. Hope this don't seem nasty, because it isn't meant to be. Very nice truck and no problems as of yet! any ideas on spray-in liners?
I ordered a 1500 4wd ext cab 2/8 just got the tpw for 3/13 can anyone tell me when I can expect to see this truck at the dealer? GM told me 6 to 8 more weeks after the TPW date, is that posable? LS,Aut tran, 5.3, HD Susp, P265s, Buckets, CD/Cass, Tint Glass, Trailer Pack,Alum wheels,Auto Track,Fog lights,Electrochromic Mirror,Sliding Rear window(Did not go through though may let dealer put it in?)Thats about it I think, price without Tax ... $27714 with a MSRP of $31363.
tomorrow at 9am. Tach. was at 2000 RPM @ 75 MPH (3.73 rear end). Getting a under rail bedliner with mat (underneath liner) from Leonard's for about $140. Has the wider grooves that fit the bottom of the bed and the 2 tier loading feature. Thought about a spray in, but many have said drop-in's are better. Will install MAF sensor right away and probably the air-aid, will let you know how it goes...
have the 4 doors and drove about 20 miles on the interstate and didn't notice any obtrusive wind noise (rode in front driving 10 miles and then in the back). Notice more noise in back, but it was not bad at all...
I just came back from the store and parked next to me was a Ford with the whole truck, yes the whole truck, Rhino Lined. It was just about the ugliest thing I have ever seen! This was a relatively new F-150.
Decided not to regear the truck. Too much hassle, and too expensive. The 305's are only about 1" bigger than the 265's, not that much difference.
I am just waiting for the HPPIII to come. They are being shipped, but since they have so many orders they say it may be two weeks yet.
Also, does anybody have experience with the Hypertech powerstat? What temp does the engine run at? How does it effect the heater in the winter? I also read in an add that it works with the MAF. Since I have an Airaid and Granatelli MAF already, should I not use the new stat or will it be okay to run all of these?
Was looking at the new Truck Trend mag and it has the new 2500HD crew cab and the 3500HD crew cab duallie in it. Pretty awesome. The 8.1L Vortec is rated at 340 HP and 455 Torque. The Duramax deisel produces 520 torque. They also show pictures of the new Allison 5 speed auto tranny.
Id be happy to Tim wont matter much they are gonna scrap the heck out of it anyways before they put the liner in And my point wasnt if it was gonna scratch the bed or not but that it was already scratched to all heck and looked pretty darn bad already. Brand new 2000 silverado with gouges and scratches in the bed people need to takke better care of things. I guess you had to be there to see the whole situation
HMMMMMM about putting the bedliner on the whole truck thats sounds neat hmmm gives me an idea
Tow/haul does not disable the torque converter lockup. Where do people get this idea? That would be counter productive because it would cause more heat to be generated in the tranny when towing.
When in tow/haul the final rpm on the freeway is EXACTLY the same as when not in tow/haul.
Depending on conditions, it can take minutes to finally go into the highest gear and lockup so it may seem like it is locking it out. If you let up on the gas quite a bit it will shift quickly. I've put 1500 miles on in t/h mode and found it very useful with a heavy load.
I was contemplating replacing the stock shocks and was looking for some suggestions. I'm primarily looking to smooth the average day to day driving. Someone commented about the Edelbrock IAS shocks which I've heard great things about. Anyone else care to comment? Also, does anyone know if the shocks on a '00 model will fit on a '94 Z71? Thanks
Good luck on your new bed liner. I know you are getting a Tuffliner because that is the only brand with the wide bottom grooves. I have one and really like that feature, it's why I choose this brand. Also it is not too slippery.
However, there is a big problem: it won't sit flat. The middle of the rear bows up about 3-4 inches no matter what I do. I've tried carrying a 6x6 to force it flat for a month, failed. Then tried gluing it down with silicon glue, failed. It is better than before but it's been over 5 months. They say it will flatten out in a few days after install. Right.
Another thing to keep in mind which all drop-ins do. It moves a lot with temperature. I bet it changes in length 1/2 inch over temperature. This isn't important for the bed (except it broke my glue loose) but is for the tailgate cover. I had to slot the holes in the cover and leave the screws a little loose or it would bow out when the sun hit it. I recommend installing the cover when it is quite warm, then it will tend to pull tighter when it gets cold.
Let me know how yours works out. I'm curious to hear if it sits flat. I'm going to give the glue another shot.
My brother had a set of Edelbrock IAS shocks installed on his truck last year. He has a fully loaded (only options not on his truck are the sportside box, sliding rear window & bucket seats) regular cab LS 4WD short box (black). This truck really looks sharp!!!
He didn't like the rough & very bouncey ride from the Z71 shocks & the short wheelbase. I have driven his truck & let me tell you, "WOW" what a difference in the ride. No more rough or bouncey ride, yet the handling was better then ever & no more nose diving when you have to hit the brakes quickly! These shocks are not cheap (I think he paid around $65.00 each or so) but they are worth every penny. rcoos
getting the pad under the bedliner also. Don't know if that will help, but it probably won't scratch up the bed quite as much. They said it would bow in the middle a few days - also said they could put a screw in it if I wanted (said no). I get it installed today (Tues.) and am getting a tonneau cover on Friday - maybe the tonneau will help with the streching (heat). We'll see.
Does this powerstat everyone is talking about do anything for performance or mileage? Looking for some cheap horses...
Those of you putting in plastic bedliners and/or spraying in "cottage cheese", do you also put on seat covers and floor mats over the floor mats? I mean come on, 98% of you buying a NEW Silverado will not own it more than 6 years. Do you think the bed is going to rust out in that time?...NO! Save your money and put it into performance parts. And no Ryan, a nerf bar is not a performance part.
Next thing ya know people will be spraying in the cottage cheese AND puttiing in a plastic bedliner to protect the cottage cheese. HELLO !! You are buying a truck!!
Performance? WHY? ALready has enough HP's for me. Gotta improve looks not the performance. I dont see a need for dual exhaust (just noise to me). And to answer your question no seat covers but i probably will put a mat in because here in the winter the floors can get pretty messy and wet with all the snow and crap on the ground. Its more to catch the water so it doesnt saturate in the carpeting of the floor. I will have it more than 6 yrs (thats what i am planning) and i want to take care of it.
Hey blue does a grill guard count as a performance product???
Tim, I quess then you bought the 6cyl since you don't want performance? Bluebeast rule of thumb: You can NEVER have to much power under the hood. P.S. Have not jumped a creek but did clear a railroad track air born a good 25-30 feet.
Ryan, grillguard, adds weight and affects the usefullness of your airbags and is NOT performance related, therefore a cosmetic item to impress your friends.
I heard DUKES OF HAZZARD man what a great show ( i still watch it on tnn) That and knight rider were the 2 best shows growing up.
Whats with the performance thing blue? Where r u from? I bet it is warm there isnt it? Didnt u say texas i believe? Around here it makes no sense to me to add performance stuff since we have abput 4 months of real nice weather and the rest is cool cold snowy rainy.
The cosmetic things make the truck it gives the truck CHARACTER. I agree with tim you want performance get a sportscar u want usefulness get a truck.
I have not seen them yet. No one will probably make them. If I can find a set of sportside (dealer, junk yard, etc) WW liners, I will add to my Z71 to keep the mud from the back of the cab and off of the tail lights.
BTW, I painted my bed in the ww area with flat black paint to hide the summit white. I think it improves the looks. I never noticed how much it stood out until my wife mentioned it (Does it itch under your cast? Not until you mention it )
OK, what do you folks recommend for changing differential fluid, both front and rear? I've heard every 10,000 and every 20,000. What about the synthetic rear axle fluid, does that affect it? For those of you that have changed it, is there a drain plug or do you have to take the whole cover off (both front and rear)? When you refill it, how much do you put in? The manual says a few milimeters below the fill line, but how do you tell that while you are filling it? Speaking of that, do you guys know of a better way to check the level than sticking your finger in there?
Lots of questions, so maybe we'll get a whole new thing going on differentials...
Ryan, all i can tell you is that since i have had my grill guard on my 99 I have hit two deer, slid into a stump while back in the woods on skidder trails, and my friend ran my truck into a wall. No damage yet! I have a Manik, stainless steel. A little expensive but i think having a stronger one that isn't going to rust right away is better.
I know what you mean about the rear wheel wells on white trucks. I immediately purchased a can of spray-on undercoating (black) and sprayed over the white. Looks much better! Also, the undercoating protects a bit, too. I also continued the two-tone around the tailgate. I can't figure out how gm could think that cutting off the lower paint at the tailgate could be okay. BTW, has anyone tried the new Monroe "Reflex" shocks? I got a price of $175 for 4, including shipping. I have a reg cab, short bed, so the ride is pretty firm. Comments anyone?
I still think deep down you both want power, Tim, you acknowledge this by buying a 6.0L and Ryan, being 20 something its just a matter of time when (if) you get your truck you will always want to be first off the line and looking back at a Dodge, Ford, Toyota, Nissan (pick one). Again, really check into the liability and safety of adding a grill guard on.
I've had the performance cars (while owning a truck) ie: 96 Cobra, 95 Mustang GT, 95 BMW M3, 66 Shelby, but my main love is trucks. So I try to get a little of the performance part in my truck. A lot cheaper than having to own 2 vehicles.
Yes Ryan I live in Texas, Austin specifically. And it is nice having a clean truck most of the time. Not to mention quite a few roads that are nice and smooth. Don't miss the salt, gravel, snow & windstorms in Boulder Colo where I grow up.
I totally agree with the two-tone thing on the tailgate. I think that the two tone (especially with fender flares) looks good, until you get around to the back end!! Then all I can notice is that the two-tone isn't carried onto the tailgate!! How much did is cost you to have the tailgate painted? Just curious.
dukes of hazzard, ah yes...great show. bed-liner - necessary, because i plan on using the bed AND, oh by the way, keeping this truck till it dies. i didn't drop $30k to trade it in at the end of the warranty. personally, i think they should come from the factory with some kind of bed-liner. name one logical reason why you need glossy paint in the bed of ANY pickup truck, no matter WHAT you use it for. what the hell? i don't plan on buying a grill guard, but nerf bars - definitely. no, they may not be performance parts, but for someone who's 5'9", i'm sure they will directly contribute to the performance of my lower body 10 years from now when i haven't had to be jumping and twisting several times each day to get in and out of this baby. they'll save on wear and tear on the outside of my cloth seats too.
fyi - 1500 miles and no problems of any sort with wind noise or any of the four doors closing.
I wont be getting the grill guard till maybe 6 months to a year after i get the truck. Im not so keen on possibly losing the tow hooks. I just like it for looks makes it look rugged you know. And i know exactly whatcha mean about being first off the line i do that now and i think twice that i recall i havent been ( dodge viper blew me off the road ill never even try again with one of those and a camaro ss) I really dont need any more HP or anything with the new truck i drive fast enough as it is in an S-10 with a 4.3 V-6. I am going to need one of those speed reducers set at like 60 for me.
SCRATCHES and DENTS give a truck character, not a brushguard. No, but seriously, a good brushguard does make a truck look good. Though, I'll take a winch bumper over a good brushguard anyday.
When i want power,I open the trailer door that my 2000 3/4 ton LS silverado 4x4 ext-cab is hauling and pull out my dragbike's that run 8 sec. 1/4 miles. Trucks are for pulling and loading stuff into, however it is nice when you pull up next to someone in there new rustang or camaro with a 6 cylinder in it and blow there doors off with a truck.
Cost me $110 to have the pewter painted below the summit white on the tailgate. Makes all the difference in the world. GM probably doesn't do it because they would never get it to line up. I imagine the tailgates are painted off the truck and it has to be on the truck to get a proper line across it. Once my body shop shot the line, they took it off, prep'd and painted it. Got it back the next day. I haven't put it back on the truck yet though - letting it cure.
Kyle: Ditto on the side step nerf bars, at 5'10" I gotta jump to step into this 2500. For sure will wear the cloth seat cushion all to hell if I don't. I to will have this truck for at least 12 years just like my last so I'm gonna make it look & sound to what suits me.
Ryan: I'm surprised the Viper even looked at you in a 4.3 Blazer! Isn't the 98 mph built in speed limiter that these trucks come with enough for you. 60 mph ? your gonna drive like an old man! LOL. No offense intended to our elder viewers.
Tim: I understand! LOL. I still have my 69 American Motors 2 seat AMX for rippin up the roads. I bought that back in 71 and never parted with it. The truck is for camping/hauling & pleasure.
and the only complaint I have is the visor. Anyone know of a good aftermarket visor??
Also, nothing wrong with adding a few horses to this baby. However I can see Tim's point - my point is to add a few horses without sacrificing fuel economy. Won't spend more that $1000 spicing it up a little.
Had the bedliner put in and didn't have any bowing in the middle like one of the others described - maybe I was lucky...
I put mudflaps on front and rear over my fender flares. I bought the plain flat mudflaps from my dealer. They had a GM pn, and if you want, I could dig it up.
The fender flares mount with barbed, push-in pieces that are not reusable. Your dealer should have some that are longer - 1" or more. Put hole in the flaps to match the flares and push the longer barbed pieces in to lock them both on. I've got 20K on mine without problems.
No, I will keep my truck far longer than 6 years. At least double. I've had my car 18 years now. I don't mind a few scratches in the bed but I admit that I would have a hard time dragging a heavy appliance across the bed while listening to it gouging out a groove. Or dragging a shovel of gravel half the length of the bed like I do now. I like the bedliner so I can be as rough as I wish with no worries. My philosophy is to add reasonable protection, then use the truck as a truck.
Now the trucks with a tonneau cover and bedliner???? You can't even use the bed with a tonneau so why bother.
I agree that the sun visor sucks. The roof mount center console forces them to make the visor short. They should have put a pull-out extension in it for use on the side window. GM's nicer cars have those.
I'm thinking about building a sliding extension that clips onto the existing visor or adding a second visor over the side window. I looked at some at Camping World, they have a few. They would need modification because they are meant for the front. Maybe get a set of real ones from a salvage yard and mount them somehow. I'm worried that would look stupid though so I'm inclined to go with the extension.
Maybe I'll offer my solution for sale and get rich off you guys (and gals) !
I'm getting a cloth type that can be rolled up or taken off in less than 5 minutes. Prevents people from throwing soda cans in my bed (hate that). The rigid ones with shocks and everything are pretty much useless. Sure they look nice, but if your carring anything large you must take it completly off - a two man job. Plus there expensive - useless to me, but like the soft quick removable ones...
Thanks for the info on the IAS shocks. I called a local 4X4 shop today and that's what the guy recommended.
Kanton:
Did you ever get your steering issue resolved? Mine is going in the shop tomorrow for the steering shaft replacement (rattle) Hopefully that will solve it. I'll let you know.
The Suburban and Tahoe have visor extensions while still using the same overhead console. I don't think the console has much to do with it. I guess truck buyers aren't meant to drive in the sun.
I was checking out the web site of the manufacturer of the mirros on our trucks. Specifically, the auto-dimming mirrors. On the '99s, the outside rearview mirros were supposed to (according to the literature) dim along with the inside mirror when lights hit the sensor at night. They don't do that...but they should, according to the web site (www.gentex.com).
Do you suppose GM disabled the system for some reason? Is there a wire I can connect to make it work?
The 99 brochure shows them as included with the LT but they are not not mentioned in my owners manual. I did get the air filter out from under the dash 4 screws on mine. Its been a year and it was dirty.I have had an odor with the air conditioner on and am hoping the new filter fixes it.
Comments
I have p275R16 with Alumin.rims. They are Firestone Wilderness At.Tires Good ride so far!
Now to Eadeneris:
Math is just a bunch of numbers that can be manipulated however you want them to be. Remember the Mars mission! Math Killed it.
Just kidding!
The Tach numbers were very close since what I did
was drive to Identically equipt vehicles. One with a 4.10 and the other with 3.73.
I drove the same road and everything and I set the the cruise at 75 mph on both vehicles for 2.5 miles. I did this to see what the difference would be with the rearends.
It was more like 400-500 excuse me.
Point is the difference was more than 1.66 or whatever the math said it would be. Long distance it will add up. I mentioned this to the dealer when I got back and he said he figured it was around 400 rpm.
Hope this don't seem nasty, because it isn't meant to be.
Very nice truck and no problems as of yet!
any ideas on spray-in liners?
LS,Aut tran, 5.3, HD Susp, P265s, Buckets,
CD/Cass, Tint Glass, Trailer Pack,Alum wheels,Auto
Track,Fog lights,Electrochromic Mirror,Sliding Rear window(Did not go through though may let dealer
put it in?)Thats about it I think, price without
Tax ... $27714 with a MSRP of $31363.
Decided not to regear the truck. Too much hassle, and too expensive. The 305's are only about 1" bigger than the 265's, not that much difference.
I am just waiting for the HPPIII to come. They are being shipped, but since they have so many orders they say it may be two weeks yet.
Also, does anybody have experience with the Hypertech powerstat? What temp does the engine run at? How does it effect the heater in the winter? I also read in an add that it works with the MAF. Since I have an Airaid and Granatelli MAF already, should I not use the new stat or will it be okay to run all of these?
Was looking at the new Truck Trend mag and it has the new 2500HD crew cab and the 3500HD crew cab duallie in it. Pretty awesome. The 8.1L Vortec is rated at 340 HP and 455 Torque. The Duramax deisel produces 520 torque. They also show pictures of the new Allison 5 speed auto tranny.
Kyle
LOL
- Tim
ANd to the guy that said he had P275's firestones??? DOnt u mean P265's? Didnt know you could get P275's from the factory.
Ryan
I bet if you slid one across the bare bed it would scratch it. Doesn't take much to expose the primer these days.
Let's try it on yours when it gets here Ryan!
I mean you said it won't bother it!
LOL
- Tim
HMMMMMM about putting the bedliner on the whole truck thats sounds neat hmmm gives me an idea
hahaha (im joking)
Ryan
When in tow/haul the final rpm on the freeway is EXACTLY the same as when not in tow/haul.
Depending on conditions, it can take minutes to finally go into the highest gear and lockup so it may seem like it is locking it out. If you let up on the gas quite a bit it will shift quickly. I've put 1500 miles on in t/h mode and found it very useful with a heavy load.
Mark
However, there is a big problem: it won't sit flat. The middle of the rear bows up about 3-4 inches no matter what I do. I've tried carrying a 6x6 to force it flat for a month, failed. Then tried gluing it down with silicon glue, failed. It is better than before but it's been over 5 months. They say it will flatten out in a few days after install. Right.
Another thing to keep in mind which all drop-ins do. It moves a lot with temperature. I bet it changes in length 1/2 inch over temperature. This isn't important for the bed (except it broke my glue loose) but is for the tailgate cover. I had to slot the holes in the cover and leave the screws a little loose or it would bow out when the sun hit it. I recommend installing the cover when it is quite warm, then it will tend to pull tighter when it gets cold.
Let me know how yours works out. I'm curious to hear if it sits flat. I'm going to give the glue another shot.
He didn't like the rough & very bouncey ride from the Z71 shocks & the short wheelbase. I have driven his truck & let me tell you, "WOW" what a difference in the ride. No more rough or bouncey ride, yet the handling was better then ever & no more nose diving when you have to hit the brakes quickly! These shocks are not cheap (I think he paid around $65.00 each or so) but they are worth every penny.
rcoos
Does this powerstat everyone is talking about do anything for performance or mileage? Looking for some cheap horses...
Next thing ya know people will be spraying in the cottage cheese AND puttiing in a plastic bedliner to protect the cottage cheese. HELLO !! You are buying a truck!!
Hey blue does a grill guard count as a performance product???
Ryan
2500 with 245's and 4:10
70MPH - 2350 RPM
75MPH - 2500 RPM
80MPH - 2650 RPM
1500 with 265's and 3:73 and 5.3L
65mph - 1775 rpm
70mph - 1900 rpm
75mph - 2025 rpm
80mph - 2150 rpm
You want something you can use...get a truck.
Maybe when you get the truck hot rodded we can jump the creek...like in the Dukes of Hazzard?
YYEEEEEEEEAAAHHHHHH HHHHAWWWWWWW!!
- Tim
Oh yeah...and my RPMS were rounded to the 50...i'm not going to plaster my face in the dash to see the exact RPM while going that speed.
Now what about the stroke of the two engines?
How's that effect it?
Ryan, grillguard, adds weight and affects the usefullness of your airbags and is NOT performance related, therefore a cosmetic item to impress your friends.
I heard DUKES OF HAZZARD man what a great show ( i still watch it on tnn) That and knight rider were the 2 best shows growing up.
Whats with the performance thing blue? Where r u from? I bet it is warm there isnt it? Didnt u say texas i believe? Around here it makes no sense to me to add performance stuff since we have abput 4 months of real nice weather and the rest is cool cold snowy rainy.
The cosmetic things make the truck it gives the truck CHARACTER. I agree with tim you want performance get a sportscar u want usefulness get a truck.
Ryan
BTW, I painted my bed in the ww area with flat black paint to hide the summit white. I think it improves the looks. I never noticed how much it stood out until my wife mentioned it (Does it itch under your cast? Not until you mention it
Lots of questions, so maybe we'll get a whole new thing going on differentials...
Thanks,
Mark
--Mike
It's followed by a .0 instead of Cyl. though..
Hot rodding trucks is about the same usefullness as flames on an Escort.
I know several people here like doing it...and to each his own...but when you are ready for real performance...step up to a hot rodded car.
- Tim
I've had the performance cars (while owning a truck) ie: 96 Cobra, 95 Mustang GT, 95 BMW M3, 66 Shelby, but my main love is trucks. So I try to get a little of the performance part in my truck. A lot cheaper than having to own 2 vehicles.
Kevin
bed-liner - necessary, because i plan on using the bed AND, oh by the way, keeping this truck till it dies. i didn't drop $30k to trade it in at the end of the warranty. personally, i think they should come from the factory with some kind of bed-liner. name one logical reason why you need glossy paint in the bed of ANY pickup truck, no matter WHAT you use it for. what the hell? i don't plan on buying a grill guard, but nerf bars - definitely. no, they may not be performance parts, but for someone who's 5'9", i'm sure they will directly contribute to the performance of my lower body 10 years from now when i haven't had to be jumping and twisting several times each day to get in and out of this baby. they'll save on wear and tear on the outside of my cloth seats too.
fyi - 1500 miles and no problems of any sort with wind noise or any of the four doors closing.
my $0.02
kyle
Ryan
Also has anyone put on the husky linings mudflaps? I know they make them special for the fender flares just wondering how they are. Thanks
Ryan
Ryan
Ryan: I'm surprised the Viper even looked at you in a 4.3 Blazer! Isn't the 98 mph built in speed limiter that these trucks come with enough for you. 60 mph ? your gonna drive like an old man! LOL. No offense intended to our elder viewers.
Tim: I understand! LOL. I still have my 69 American Motors 2 seat AMX for rippin up the roads. I bought that back in 71 and never parted with it. The truck is for camping/hauling & pleasure.
Ray T.
Have a nice day
Roger
Also, nothing wrong with adding a few horses to this baby. However I can see Tim's point - my point is to add a few horses without sacrificing fuel economy. Won't spend more that $1000 spicing it up a little.
Had the bedliner put in and didn't have any bowing in the middle like one of the others described - maybe I was lucky...
The fender flares mount with barbed, push-in pieces that are not reusable. Your dealer should have some that are longer - 1" or more. Put hole in the flaps to match the flares and push the longer barbed pieces in to lock them both on. I've got 20K on mine without problems.
Mike L
99 Silverado 4x4 4.8L 5spd
Now the trucks with a tonneau cover and bedliner???? You can't even use the bed with a tonneau so why bother.
I'm thinking about building a sliding extension that clips onto the existing visor or adding a second visor over the side window. I looked at some at Camping World, they have a few. They would need modification because they are meant for the front. Maybe get a set of real ones from a salvage yard and mount them somehow. I'm worried that would look stupid though so I'm inclined to go with the extension.
Maybe I'll offer my solution for sale and get rich off you guys (and gals) !
Ryan
Kanton:
Did you ever get your steering issue resolved? Mine is going in the shop tomorrow for the steering shaft replacement (rattle) Hopefully that will solve it. I'll let you know.
Mark
I was checking out the web site of the manufacturer of the mirros on our trucks. Specifically, the auto-dimming mirrors. On the '99s, the outside rearview mirros were supposed to (according to the literature) dim along with the inside mirror when lights hit the sensor at night. They don't do that...but they should, according to the web site (www.gentex.com).
Do you suppose GM disabled the system for some reason? Is there a wire I can connect to make it work?
Richard