I am going with the Gibson split rear exit cat-back exhuast. I have read many posts on various sites and most say that the Flowmaster has more interior resonance while driving. Most people seem to prefer the Gibson on that issue. The TRCUKS! show on TNN installed a Flowmaster (with the Delta flow muffler??) on a new Silverado and it sounded good (on TV anyway). The Gibson goes for about $330 here in Maryland. Stainless tips are extra.
I am getting ready to order a 2000 LS. I have read previous posting with a reference to TPW on order trucks. I would like to know what TPW stands for and what it is. Also I understand the customer loyalty offer expires 2/29/00. Has anyone heard of an extension or another promotion to replace it.
A switch gets mounted in the dash; I used the rectangular space above the passenger air-bag switch to mount it.
A motor gets mounted under the rear seat with a cable that runs up to the window. The window itself is tinted and looks very clean ... you would never guess it wasn't stock on my LT (except that it doesn't have the standard defogger.
The manufacturer (and I believe the only one) is C. J. Laurence Company. I believe the cost was about $300. Official name is PowrSlider.
I just bought a 2000 LS. Got a locker rear end. Seems like that locker might help in icy weather. Just a guess. I'll let you guys know next year, unless we get a freak ice storm soon.
If you apply the fulcrom (sp?) physics to a long bed, then yes, the wheels could be in a situation where there is less pressure on the road for them. Remember, a longer fulcrom makes an easier lift? So, if your wheels are farther away from the most weight of the truck (cab, engine, etc..) then you will have less pressure to the road. Even though there is more weight due to the more steel in the back. The front of the truck is still the heaviest.
The reason for aluminum heads can be traced to the Oil crisis of the 70's. Manufacturers first targeted weight reduction to increase fuel mileage. For every 100 lbs weight reduction they would gain .1 MPG. The three areas targeted areas of the engine were heads, intake manifolds, and enging blocks. The two that have stayed were the intakes manifolds and heads.
Heat dissipation may be better, but alumninum heads will hurt if you overheat the engine. Seriously overheating aluminum heads can cause warping, and in some engines, cracking which leads to blown head gaskets.
The reason GM has done so well on the fuel mileage is engine set-up. They appear to be using a leaner fuel mixture, higher compression ratio often 9.5 to 1, with a high end torque cam.
What this means is if you lay off the gas pedal, you'll get outstanding gas mileage. But you still will have very good torque if you really need it and great snap for passing.
The price paid means that right of the line, competition could get the drop on you, but in the end you will probably pass on by (in horse racing, they call it a strong close). The other price paid is that that gas mileage will drop seriously when towing or hauling near capacity loads.
hello all! I just picked up my new 2k 4dr ls with indigo blue/pewter 2 tone with wheel flares. I wasn't a fan of flares but it does make a truck look more sporty. If you are persistent with your dealer its amazing what they can do with the threat of going to another dealer. Case in point! I live in W.Michigan and I went looking for a 2k 4dr 4x4 Ls. I located a dealer that said that he had one coming in. Week of 2/15. He contacted me and I went and looked at it and drove it. Nice truck basic truck Pewter with power windows and locks, cd,cassette. The problem was 4.10 rearend. I liked the truck, but I drive alot so I wanted the 3.73 rearend. After a song and dance with the dealer, he tried everything in the world to get me to go with the 4.10. I wasn't budging! Stubborn, no just know what I wanted. Well he said that it was getting late in the month and I was risking not being able to use the loyalty coupon. (Bummer I was thinking, but the price I was paying I'm getting what I want).
Well after I was persistent about the rearend and he realized that I wasn't going for his truck, he said that he probably wasn't going to find me a truck from another dealer in time. Well I said try! or I'll go to another dealer and find one before the end of the month!
Its amazing what you can do when you try! Low and behold I received a call a few days later and it wasn't the mailman! It was the dealer who had mysteriously found a truck in the exact color that I really wanted! The truck was a little more decked out that the first, and it cost me $800 more. Very well worth the extra cost!
Out the door with extended warranty with loyalty coupon was 27.5k. I was able to use the GMS program also, but I learned something during this process. If you are thinking about buying a y2k 4dr.check it for wind noise. The first truck did have wind noise. Get the rearend that you want. 500 rpm diff. at 75mph. It adds up on a long trip! Ask to see the invoice of the veh! I compared the price of the invoice to carwizard. Very close, but the holdback and advertising was the majority of the difference in price.
Good luck to all the potential buyers and my truck only has 77 miles on it, but no wind noise and very good ride.
Be firm in your decisions with the dealer and when they see you are serious they will work with you. Oh by the way how many dealer will hold a truck for u with only $20.00 down. Im sure when someone came and offered him MRSP for my vehicle it hurt to say no!
Have a 1999 1500 LS Silverado. Started noticing a squeak in the rear springs when I first take off. Went to the dealer at about 12000 miles and they replaced they rear springs. The squeak started again in 3 days. Went back to the dealer and they said that they couldn't repair the problem. Said it was in in many Silverado's and said until Chevrolet comes up with a solution, there is nothing they could do. Dealer said problem was with bushings in rear springs. They tried lubricating everything, but that was no help. I have just logged in on this service. Anyone else have this problem?
which drop-in do you recommend. Pick up my new Y2K Silverado Tues. (just in time for the loyality coupon). Got a 4dr. ext. cab. 1/2 ton LT package with every option. $34K MSRP - with tax, tag, etc. I'll pay a little less than $30K, not too bad. Could have ordered, but didn't want to wait and the loyality coupon ends this month. The LT package is very nice, seats were great when I drove it. Will get a bedliner right away and probably a tonneau cover. Will wait on engine mods. for a few months. Would have got a 3/4 ton, but gas prices are crazy and mileage is important to me. Plus you can't find a 3/4 ton 4-door...
Oh yes, people have had that problem. It has been discussed in this topic and there are some other topics more specific to noises and vibrations you should check. The last mention I remember, the guy got rubber tip covers put on the spring by the dealer and that fixed it.
The best way I've found to really search is to click "see all responses" then use the Edit Find feature of your browser to find a particular word. Also check the old Chevy Silverado topics in the Archives the same way.
You won't find a 4 door 2500....cuz they haven't made them yet. hell....finding a 3 door 2500 here is next to impossible....can't even order one!
Anyway..
Drop In bedliner....Several Brands "will do". But the best Fit and function are Duraliners. The GM/Chevy Liners are also a Duraliner.
They fit so much better...and don't warp and bow up like cheap ones. yeah they might be $300 instead of $140....But you get what you pay for. The newest Duraliner i got is an under the rail.(my first under the rail) and it fits great.
There are no screws. To put it in...ya kinda push the sides together to make it narrow and slide it in...there are 4?? "tabs" kinda like that slip under the metal rail like and "snap" in..
Does that make sense? if not I can post pics....
It doesn't warp or lose it's shape,sag or bow up in the floor.
it's also got a "grit" like built into the floor of the mold itself. You can still slide stuff...but it also holds it in place....if that makes any sense??
Oh hell...just come over and see it over a beer! LOL
mgdv wrote: You won't find a 4 door 2500....cuz they haven't made them yet. ----------------------- Not true..mine has been shipped (heck, it's even been paid for!). It was built on the 16th and is on it's way!
I agree with you that you should get the axle you want , but your math is off. It is not 500 rpm difference at 75 with a 3.73 vs. 4.10, it is more like 222 rpm in drive and 166 rpm in overdrive assuming a 0.75 overdrive.
You need to divide a mile (5280') by the tire circumference (8.3' for 265-16) and then multiply by the miles per hour (75 mph) then divide by 60 min/hr, multiply this by the axle ratio 3.73 or 4.10 and then multiply this by the overdrive ratio (~0.75). This gives you 2228.3 rpm with a 3.73 and 2450 with a 4.10. This matches what my tach reads very well.
Like the man says, get the axle you want and don' lose any sleep.
for a duraliner. Had a Dodge Dakota with the factory liner and it was pretty cheap. Sounds like the Chevy one is better, but I'll take a look at it before buying. Thanks for the help. Hey, do you remember talking about the MAF sensor. One guy said it made a substansial difference in power. And another said to take out the screen and file the current one down to get the same results. Anyone remember what the best way to do this was? Should I buy the aftermarket one or just leave well enough alone? I'se likes more power...
According to the 2000 Chevy Silv. broucher I've got just the LS and LT have the filter.I bet your dealer can show you where it is on your truck,at no charge.
quadrunner500: I just read in the spring issue of GMC Direction that the 6.0 will have 330 hp and 370 ft lbs of torque. Still would want the Duramax.
I went round and round with Granatelli. When I received my MAF it was a stock unit with the screen removed and the excess plastic removed. They said that is not how they do it. After bickering and bickering and telling them I did not want this thing and telling them I was going to send it back, the truth finally came out. It turns out, they use the stock MAF housing because under contract with Delphi they cannot manufacture their own for two years. What they do is this: they remove the screen and excess plastic, and then they change the chip/processor in it from a 32-bit to a 64-bit, then they recalibrate it. By doing this they claim to flow 48% more air. I was skeptical and decided just to take their word for it (I was talking to the owner Joe Granatelli) and installed it. Wow! What a difference, the performance is substancial and very noticeable. I noticed more gains from this than from a flowmaster exhaust and airaid system combined. Well worth it. Just for comparison I put the stock back on and it seemed as if there was something wrong with the truck!
Flowmaster: If you put one on your truck definately get a delta-flow. They have more baffles in it to reduce the interior resonance. When I did mine I started with a standard two-chamber. Way too loud; interior resonance was terrible. I took it back and had a delta-flow 70- series installed (no charge). The sound is good, minimal resonance. If I were to do it again I would get a delta-flow 50 series.
Still waiting on the Hypertech Power Programmer for the y2k. I really want to recalibrate the computer for the bigger tires.
Headers: I was entertaining the idea of putting headers on. Anyone have experience with them and their Silverado? What do you suggest, how difficult to install? Shops I have talked to have said JBA shorty's or Doug Thorley. I want ones that will produce the most low end torque. Suggestions appreciated.
I have a 98 1500 extended cab silverado, and would like to improve the handling and ride, do you suggest new shocks? what kind? anti sway? what kind? thanks, otherwise a very good truck and dependable. just drove the new trunda from Toyota, ok great, V8, lously looks, poor back seat, fine ride, poor steering tho.
Kanton, The tire size can be calibrated by a dealer or anyone with a tech 2, scan tool. Ask the dealer about a price [non-permissible content removed] if the ask anymore then .3 of there shop rate it takes about 5 min.. to do. I myself and many others do it for free if we are already working on the truck. If you bring it in special for just the tire calibration yes ecspect to pay because the tech has to drop what he is doing to do yours and we get paid for what we do. blah blah
hypertech has never been cheap in the past and I have never seen anything to great out of them. If you do any of the hypertech engine controls reprograming your engine ALMOST always starts pinging. Then you need to use high octane fuel$$$ If you really want the extra power go with a turbo a supercharger. As for the exhaust and aircleaner mods ya you can gain a few more horsepower but not a enough that there is a real noticable gain. If you look at the writing on like K&N the gain is at the upper rpm range how often do you plan to run 5000rpm? I have driven trucks with the exhaust/mods and compared them to stock I see no noticable gain in take off or anything else, except better mpg.
HVAC air filter.. Dealer may remove the sticker for the air filter. Like I mentioned it is just to the right of the tunnel on the heater box. You need to remove the heater box lower cover to access it. Yuck they didn't make it real easy but it could be worse try an access the 4x4 module.
my two cents please don't start screaming about the air/exhaust mods do what makes you happy
I would be surprised if they make a different AC housing for the LT and LS; even the "high capacity" engine air filter uses the same housing. Perhaps the non-LS/LTs don't have the filter but can have one installed. Anyone know?
RE: #77 of 451. I used the www.Hypertech-inc.com link. Thank you. I'll get killed (run over) if I drive on the roads with a govenor. Have you heard if the dealership will install/configure the chip so the warrenty is not affected? This is a major buying decision factor for me - I'm not used to being passed and assure you trucks bigger than my '89 go faster then 97mph around here. That would be a major driving adjustment for me.
I went with the JBA headers. Straight forward installation. Took a total of 1 hour to do both sides (.5 hour each). Instructions said to disconnect steering. DO NOT disconnect steering assembly. I was worried about triggering airbag so we worked around it by wiggling the exhaust manifold straight back then down. Came out with no problem. That is if you decide to go with the shortys from JBA.
Glad you decided to install the Granatelli. Coolwheels offered full refund but decided to keep it cause the bottomline is the seat of the pants improvement from the Granatelli MAF as compared to stock.
Hypertech III is supposed to be available either last week or this week for 2K Silverado. We'll see.
I have not yet found the rear WW liners (as on the sportside) for use on the Z71 fleetside. They should be available soon. I am going to paint the entire ww area with flat black paint and undercoat the mud, rock sling area until I can find the liners (made from same plastic as the front ww liners). Notice that all the brochures show the WW area as black. One can see the white bed on my Z71 and it is quite noticeable. I shall soon remedy that situation. Dustyone PS: Love my truck with 88 town miles (I just picked it up Thursday, was out of town Friday and Saturday). Looks like about 10 miles/gal in this big thing.
all - my '00 1500 z71 5.3 ext cab 4 dr has been getting about 14 mpg in local driving over the first 1000 miles. this weekend, i took it round trip about 325 miles or so, all highway driving, averaging between 65-80 mph. pulled down 17.5 mpg on that tank. very happy and impressed. of course, decent gas mileage isn't hard to get when you're barely turning 2000 rpms at 80 mph. hehehe. pics below, thanks to tim for posting them. hopefully i'll have more this weekend. if we have good weather, i'll get some wax on it. future accessories right now are limited to westin cps nerf bars and a spray-in liner. by the way, after a weekend without checking, 205 messages are just TOO many to read. congrats to the 2500 4 door guys who have been waiting. hope your trucks kick as much [non-permissible content removed] as mine does...later
I have replaced them on my 99 z-71 silverado. No tag saying I have them. First remove the the 3 small hex head screws that hold the plastic heater cover in place. This will be more difficult if you have buckets with console I have brnch. Next pull the cover down and you will see curved door that covers the filter copartment.There is a screw at the rear that must be removed to remove the cover. Next remove the first filter and then the second. Reverse the procedure and you are done. Note the screw that holds the cover in will require you to use a flashlight and lay in the floor to locate it close to the firewall. Hope this helps. Wilson Anyone tried Elderbrock ISA shocks?
Glad to hear the 2500 4 drs are at dealers. I ordered mine Jan 12 and it is supposed to be built this week! Will check for sure and get that A.R.E. camper shell on order. Timing hopefully will be right. Also looking forward to that 6.0 to pull my trailer! Hope to get equal mileage to my 91 GMC 5.7 4wd. (Silverado will be 2wd) Will see!
My 1999 (feb build) base model $22K 4x4 with A/C has the Cab filter. I only had one bolt to remove. Used a 5.5mm box end. I too had to lay on the floor. Previous post describes the replacement technique very well. Took about 5 to 10 minutes once I got the right wrench. Filters were very dirty. Ran the blower on high once I had removed filters and lots of junk blew out. Popped the two new filters in and wala (spelling?), lots of cab air with less noise. Will definately do this every year.
Checked engine air filter (have the extra deep one) and at 17,000 miles hardly any color. Put the old one back in, pressure gauge was about 1/4 the way to the change mark. Amazing how clean it still was as I drive dusty areas frequently. Had to replace filters on that damn 7.3L diesel every 6 months. Like the 4.8L air filter life.
Pulled the skidplates off, found 3 more zerk fittings on steering linkages to grease. Drained front Diff (13 and 15 mm plugs), fluid was milky green, figured had some water in there somehow. Replaced with Mobil1 gear lube. Drained manual transfer case, replaced with M1 ATF. Trans case fluid looked new, found some metal on the front diff drain magnet.
Gonna drain Manual Tranny and rear diff. Scared to run anything but GM's lubes for those two. Anybody know if there are compatability issues for the syncromesh tranny oil or the $23qt rear locker diff oil?
Steering much easier after lubing the extra grease fittings. Replacement of front skid plate was a little bit of a pain as somebody has tweaked it slightly ;o)
..........center console an issue when changing this filter as described by post 463. I only ask because I have the bucket seat option w/center console.
Where do you plan on getting those ww liners from? Is there an aftermarket company that is coming out with them, or are they going to be available from dealers? Just curious.
Richard, The tow/haul mode comes in real handy in the mountains for uphill. Since it disables the torque converter lockup, it provides little in the way of braking.
I have the HVAC filter in my 2k LS.
dmr3, Yeak, I had to pay the additional for the 4th door. It was only $228 more (dealer cost). So far the only time I have noticed wind noise was when I didn't shut my door properly. Even coming back from Arkansas, thru Dallas last week with winds up to 60mph, I could hear the wind howling outside, but it wasn't getting thru the weatherstripping to the inside. The handling was rock solid in the wind.
About right between the pssgr's feet, maybe even a little to the right side. Find the circular blower motor can on the far right. Move to your left a few inches, you will see a drop down L shaped cover about 3/4" wide. The bolt to remove is towards the firewall.
Don't think the center seat arrangement would come into play at all. You almost end up just resting your head and neck on the floor. If you lay on your back, you will be too far towards the middle.
Sounds like the upscale rich guy truck models have a cosmetic plastic cover with three bolts holding it on, covering up the ugly HVAC ductwork.
Back to bedliners for a minute. I have a story a guy came in for cement yesterday 8 bags of 80 pd concrete well i put his tailgate down and grabbed a bag and his jaw hit the floor thought the poor guy was gonna have a heartattack. He had a new 2000 silverado (2 months old) Bed already scratched to all heck. He told me to wait a minute well he opened the ext cab door and pulled out his bedliner. A piece of carboard. Maybe this is the new fad????? My guess is he ran out of money and couldnt afford the bedliner. Just thought id share that i thought it was rather amusing when it happened
Well, I've exhausted my resources up to this point so I thought I might ask ya'll out there. Probably should have started here in the first place! I'm trying to get a good name and address of someone high up in GM that may care. I received a letter from a "Roy S. Roberts" Group VP of GMC, but every time I send him correspondence it goes to a "screener" in another state. He claims he's in Michigan,and I was given a P.O. box of 33170, but I ended up getting a call from someone in Texas (after sending my letter to Michigan!)that didn't give a rat's rear end about my problem. The next call to customer [dis]service reached someone in Florida that promised to get me a response. That was three weeks ago. Does anyone out there know how to reach this guy...or someone high up in this organization?? Seems to me if they can send you a letter and sign their name at the bottom you should be able to respond back to them.
Comments
you have to run a wire to it from a switch at the dash?
Who makes a good one and what do they run$$?
Thanks for any info!
Paul
A motor gets mounted under the rear seat with a cable that runs up to the window. The window itself is tinted and looks very clean ... you would never guess it wasn't stock on my LT (except that it doesn't have the standard defogger.
The manufacturer (and I believe the only one) is C. J. Laurence Company. I believe the cost was about $300. Official name is PowrSlider.
Richard
http://www.crlaurence.com/newcrlsite/tv00/Pages/2.html#t2
I used to have pictures of mine on my web site but removed tham a while back.
Richard
If you apply the fulcrom (sp?) physics to a long bed, then yes, the wheels could be in a situation where there is less pressure on the road for them. Remember, a longer fulcrom makes an easier lift? So, if your wheels are farther away from the most weight of the truck (cab, engine, etc..) then you will have less pressure to the road. Even though there is more weight due to the more steel in the back. The front of the truck is still the heaviest.
Heat dissipation may be better, but alumninum heads will hurt if you overheat the engine. Seriously overheating aluminum heads can cause warping, and in some engines, cracking which leads to blown head gaskets.
The reason GM has done so well on the fuel mileage is engine set-up. They appear to be using a leaner fuel mixture, higher compression ratio often 9.5 to 1, with a high end torque cam.
What this means is if you lay off the gas pedal, you'll get outstanding gas mileage. But you still will have very good torque if you really need it and great snap for passing.
The price paid means that right of the line, competition could get the drop on you, but in the end you will probably pass on by (in horse racing, they call it a strong close). The other price paid is that that gas mileage will drop seriously when towing or hauling near capacity loads.
Case in point! I live in W.Michigan and I went looking for a 2k 4dr 4x4 Ls. I located a dealer that said that he had one coming in. Week of 2/15.
He contacted me and I went and looked at it and drove it. Nice truck basic truck Pewter with power windows and locks, cd,cassette.
The problem was 4.10 rearend. I liked the truck, but I drive alot so I wanted the 3.73 rearend.
After a song and dance with the dealer, he tried everything in the world to get me to go with the
4.10. I wasn't budging! Stubborn, no just know what I wanted.
Well he said that it was getting late in the month and I was risking not being able to use the
loyalty coupon. (Bummer I was thinking, but the price I was paying I'm getting what I want).
Well after I was persistent about the rearend and he realized that I wasn't going for his truck, he said that he probably wasn't going to find me a truck from another dealer in time. Well I said try! or I'll go to another dealer and find one before the end of the month!
Its amazing what you can do when you try!
Low and behold I received a call a few days later and it wasn't the mailman!
It was the dealer who had mysteriously found a truck in the exact color that I really wanted!
The truck was a little more decked out that the first, and it cost me $800 more. Very well worth the extra cost!
Out the door with extended warranty with loyalty coupon was 27.5k. I was able to use the GMS program also, but I learned something during this
process.
If you are thinking about buying a y2k 4dr.check it for wind noise. The first truck did have wind noise.
Get the rearend that you want. 500 rpm diff. at 75mph. It adds up on a long trip!
Ask to see the invoice of the veh! I compared the
price of the invoice to carwizard. Very close, but the holdback and advertising was the majority of the difference in price.
Good luck to all the potential buyers and my truck only has 77 miles on it, but no wind noise and very good ride.
Be firm in your decisions with the dealer and when they see you are serious they will work with you.
Oh by the way how many dealer will hold a truck for u with only $20.00 down.
Im sure when someone came and offered him MRSP for my vehicle it hurt to say no!
a squeak in the rear springs when I first take off. Went to the dealer at about 12000 miles and they replaced they rear springs. The squeak started again in 3 days. Went back to the dealer and they said that they couldn't repair the problem. Said it was in in many Silverado's and said until Chevrolet comes up with a solution, there is nothing they could do. Dealer said problem was with bushings in rear springs. They tried lubricating everything, but that was no help. I have just logged in on this service. Anyone else have this problem?
The best way I've found to really search is to click "see all responses" then use the Edit Find feature of your browser to find a particular word. Also check the old Chevy Silverado topics in the Archives the same way.
Anyway..
Drop In bedliner....Several Brands "will do".
But the best Fit and function are Duraliners.
The GM/Chevy Liners are also a Duraliner.
They fit so much better...and don't warp and bow up like cheap ones. yeah they might be $300 instead of $140....But you get what you pay for.
The newest Duraliner i got is an under the rail.(my first under the rail) and it fits great.
There are no screws. To put it in...ya kinda push the sides together to make it narrow and slide it in...there are 4?? "tabs" kinda like that slip under the metal rail like and "snap" in..
Does that make sense?
if not I can post pics....
It doesn't warp or lose it's shape,sag or bow up in the floor.
it's also got a "grit" like built into the floor of the mold itself.
You can still slide stuff...but it also holds it in place....if that makes any sense??
Oh hell...just come over and see it over a beer!
LOL
Good Luck
- Tim
Richard
You won't find a 4 door 2500....cuz they haven't
made them yet.
-----------------------
Not true..mine has been shipped (heck, it's even been paid for!). It was built on the 16th and is on it's way!
You need to divide a mile (5280') by the tire circumference (8.3' for 265-16) and then multiply by the miles per hour (75 mph) then divide by 60 min/hr, multiply this by the axle ratio 3.73 or 4.10 and then multiply this by the overdrive ratio (~0.75). This gives you 2228.3 rpm with a 3.73 and 2450 with a 4.10. This matches what my tach reads very well.
Like the man says, get the axle you want and don' lose any sleep.
Richard
quadrunner500: I just read in the spring issue of GMC Direction that the 6.0 will have 330 hp and 370 ft lbs of torque. Still would want the Duramax.
Believe it when i see one though...
Good Luck
- Tim
Flowmaster: If you put one on your truck definately get a delta-flow. They have more baffles in it to reduce the interior resonance. When I did mine I started with a standard two-chamber. Way too loud; interior resonance was terrible. I took it back and had a delta-flow 70- series installed (no charge). The sound is good, minimal resonance. If I were to do it again I would get a delta-flow 50 series.
Still waiting on the Hypertech Power Programmer for the y2k. I really want to recalibrate the computer for the bigger tires.
Headers: I was entertaining the idea of putting headers on. Anyone have experience with them and their Silverado? What do you suggest, how difficult to install? Shops I have talked to have said JBA shorty's or Doug Thorley. I want ones that will produce the most low end torque. Suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Kyle
The tire size can be calibrated by a dealer or anyone with a tech 2, scan tool. Ask the dealer about a price [non-permissible content removed] if the ask anymore then .3 of there shop rate it takes about 5 min.. to do. I myself and many others do it for free if we are already working on the truck. If you bring it in special for just the tire calibration yes ecspect to pay because the tech has to drop what he is doing to do yours and we get paid for what we do. blah blah
hypertech has never been cheap in the past and I have never seen anything to great out of them. If you do any of the hypertech engine controls reprograming your engine ALMOST always starts pinging. Then you need to use high octane fuel$$$
If you really want the extra power go with a turbo a supercharger. As for the exhaust and aircleaner mods ya you can gain a few more horsepower but not a enough that there is a real noticable gain. If you look at the writing on like K&N the gain is at the upper rpm range how often do you plan to run 5000rpm? I have driven trucks with the exhaust/mods and compared them to stock I see no noticable gain in take off or anything else, except better mpg.
HVAC air filter..
Dealer may remove the sticker for the air filter. Like I mentioned it is just to the right of the tunnel on the heater box. You need to remove the heater box lower cover to access it. Yuck they didn't make it real easy but it could be worse try an access the 4x4 module.
my two cents please don't start screaming about the air/exhaust mods do what makes you happy
Richard
Glad you decided to install the Granatelli. Coolwheels offered full refund but decided to keep it cause the bottomline is the seat of the pants improvement from the Granatelli MAF as compared to stock.
Hypertech III is supposed to be available either last week or this week for 2K Silverado. We'll see.
Dustyone
PS: Love my truck with 88 town miles (I just picked it up Thursday, was out of town Friday and Saturday). Looks like about 10 miles/gal in this big thing.
Ray T.
my '00 1500 z71 5.3 ext cab 4 dr has been getting about 14 mpg in local driving over the first 1000 miles. this weekend, i took it round trip about 325 miles or so, all highway driving, averaging between 65-80 mph. pulled down 17.5 mpg on that tank. very happy and impressed. of course, decent gas mileage isn't hard to get when you're barely turning 2000 rpms at 80 mph. hehehe. pics below, thanks to tim for posting them. hopefully i'll have more this weekend. if we have good weather, i'll get some wax on it. future accessories right now are limited to westin cps nerf bars and a spray-in liner. by the way, after a weekend without checking, 205 messages are just TOO many to read. congrats to the 2500 4 door guys who have been waiting. hope your trucks kick as much [non-permissible content removed] as mine does...later
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Kyles_00_Z71.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Kyles_00_Z71_2.jpg
200 posts wont go by if you dont spend so much time driving your truck take a break once and awhile your gonna wear it out.
Ryan
70MPH - 2350 RPM
75MPH - 2500 RPM
80MPH - 2650 RPM
Remember that the 2500 tranny is a .74 OD and the 1/2 is a .70 OD
Good Luck
- Tim
Checked engine air filter (have the extra deep one) and at 17,000 miles hardly any color. Put the old one back in, pressure gauge was about 1/4 the way to the change mark. Amazing how clean it still was as I drive dusty areas frequently. Had to replace filters on that damn 7.3L diesel every 6 months. Like the 4.8L air filter life.
Pulled the skidplates off, found 3 more zerk fittings on steering linkages to grease. Drained front Diff (13 and 15 mm plugs), fluid was milky green, figured had some water in there somehow. Replaced with Mobil1 gear lube. Drained manual transfer case, replaced with M1 ATF. Trans case fluid looked new, found some metal on the front diff drain magnet.
Gonna drain Manual Tranny and rear diff. Scared to run anything but GM's lubes for those two. Anybody know if there are compatability issues for the syncromesh tranny oil or the $23qt rear locker diff oil?
Steering much easier after lubing the extra grease fittings. Replacement of front skid plate was a little bit of a pain as somebody has tweaked it slightly ;o)
make that .75 for a 2500.
carwizard used to be .74....and they are usually pretty reliable..
- Tim
Ray T.
Kevin
Do a search here on header info. This is an excellant site for lots of great info.
As for the pinging after the HPP, a 160 degree t-stat is sposed to help that along with hi-octane.
I believe if you do pipes and headers first, the MAF has a better chance to show its results.
-scott
The tow/haul mode comes in real handy in the mountains for uphill. Since it disables the torque converter lockup, it provides little in the way of braking.
I have the HVAC filter in my 2k LS.
dmr3,
Yeak, I had to pay the additional for the 4th door. It was only $228 more (dealer cost). So far the only time I have noticed wind noise was when I didn't shut my door properly. Even coming back from Arkansas, thru Dallas last week with winds up to 60mph, I could hear the wind howling outside, but it wasn't getting thru the weatherstripping to the inside. The handling was rock solid in the wind.
Mike T.
Don't think the center seat arrangement would come into play at all. You almost end up just resting your head and neck on the floor. If you lay on your back, you will be too far towards the middle.
Sounds like the upscale rich guy truck models have a cosmetic plastic cover with three bolts holding it on, covering up the ugly HVAC ductwork.
Ryan
Ryan
Ray T.
Thanks in advance for anything you can suggest,
A 4X4 Silverado owner