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2013 and earlier-Acura TL Lease Questions



  • I have been sending out emails for Price/Lease quotes myself. This is what I got for best far:
    2008 Acura TL Type-S
    MSRP $38940.00
    Invoice $35,832.00
    Cap Cost (dealer's price to me) $36,333.00

    $1,000 due out of pocket (total drive off) and $463.00/mo + TAX.
    **This is for a 36mo/10k mile a year lease
    **Residual is set at 56%
    **Money Factor is 0.00081 or 1.92%

    Pretty sure this is going to be hard to beat, but it's leaving $501.00 left for negotiating room. I can probably get the Cap Cost down to $36,000.00
  • This is the best deal I've got so far between two dealer negotiations. Taxes are built into monthly payment.

    Base TL -
    1,250 Down (Title/Bank/First month)
    No cap cost.
    12k miles

    Nav TL -
    1,290 Down (Title/Bank/First month)
    No cap cost.
    12k miles

    If you guys think this is a good deal please reply. This looks like a good deal to me but the post above is for the Type S which would make me believe my deal is not so hot. Although I've been trying to work the figures above and they don't add up to me.
  • Just leased a new 2008 TL/nav for $420/month, 36 months, including 12k miles and sales tax, and $2000 cash, including all other taxes, fees, doc charges, title, registration etc., maybe a little to cap cost. I might have done a little better, but I got a favorable trade-in on my current car, and this dealer (Denville, northern NJ) has been good in allowing many test drives on my own.
    The cap cost was $33,988 (invoice), the money factor was .00081 (fantastic- like 2% interest) and the residual was 55%.
    I priced two other dealers - one wanted $60/month just for the nav, thus about $445 for the nav, 12k miles and sales tax; one wanted about $415 total but offered less on my trade-in. These others wanted the $2000 cash total as well.
    These deals of course build on the current (to Jan 2) Acura lease program for base TLs at $359 plus $1999 cash (before taxes, doc fees, registration, title etc.). I tried to get a $399 and $1999 all-in nav deal, but no takers
    Thanks to car_man and other posters for information and advice!
  • I think your deal is pretty good. Your deal on the "base" TL is right in line with what I came up with in my calculations. I used MSRP $34,440 and "dealer selling price" or CAP COST of $32,000. I think you made a mistake when you said NO cap cost, you mean NO cap reduction?? (means no down payment to lower CAP COST)

    Basically, the BASE TL is a smoking deal. You CAN do better than the Acura Advertised me. Acura Dealers are very anxious to mave TL's right now, due to BMW/Mercedes/Cadillace/etc.

    The TL/NAV doesn't residualize out very well, so I would skip that model.

    The TL type-S is the DEAL OF DEALS right now. If you haven't driven one, do it. This is a completely different TL in personality and all-around-performance. The Type-S is running about $40-$50 a month more than TL/NAV, but worth every $$!!
  • Thanks for your reply. Yes, thank you for correcting me as I meant no cap cost reduction.

    Doing some more work today I got another dealer to go a bit lower. I think this is as low as I'm going to get it but if you feel like replying let me know what you think about the Nav deal as I'm really leaning towards that one.

    TL base - 399
    TL Nav 438

    The other numbers (Bank/Title) very similar to the previous post just a bit lower because of the lower first month's payment. I took a look at the Type -S and I know...its nice upgrade. I am about to get married and want to keep my cost to a minimum and would rather not shell out close to 500 a month....but I know..its a sweet machine.

    Thanks again for the reply.
  • I think you are golden. The numbers are very, very good. What is your purchase time frame? If you wait until after Christmas, you might be able to get it a little lower. Anyway, if not, your deals look very good to me.
    If you want to play around with numbers & a lease calculator, try "leaseguide" on a google search and use the "payment calculator".
    You will need: MSRP, Cap Cost (dealer selling price), Extra fees in deal (like the $595 Acura Bank fee + dealer fees + registration + etc), residual, MF (0.0008), your state sales tax.
    Basically, I think you can get a TL base at invoice or $100-$200 below. TL/NAV should be close to invoice, too.
    Type-S I was quoted $36,300 (about $450 over invoice), but I'm going to try to get for $35,900.
    Good Luck and enjoy your new TL!! If you get it soon, post your final deal!!
  • I should be picking it up this coming weekend. I let you know what the final numbers are. Thanks for you help.
  • alsc7alsc7 Posts: 13
    What do you mean the TL/Nav doesn't residualize well? I am thinking of leasing that model. Isn't the MF and residual numbers the same for TL and TL/Navi?

    Can you or any one else. correct me if I'm wrong: MF 0.00081, Residual 58,56, and 55% for 10,12,15K miles.
  • Well, all I am saying is that it is $2500 difference between BASE TL and TL/Navi, and that is pretty steep for Navi. Also, the TL Type-S gives you SO MUCH MORE for another $2,000 above the TL/Navi MSRP.
    The residual value for the TL/Navi is 1% or 2% lower vs BASE TL (I think it's 1%), so you have to residualize the $2500 (plus the 1-2% loss) extra vs BASE TL.
    I think these are the residual values I was given (all based on 10k miles/yr 36 mo):
    TL BASE 59% (for sure)
    TL/Navi 57-58% (it is 57 or 58, not sure which)
    TL Type-S 56% (for sure)

    When you look at 12k/year = it goes down another 1%
    When you look at 15k/year + it goes down another 2% from the 12k/year

    So, as you can see you will pay more for the TL/Navi. Most vehicle manufacturers set their residuals up this way, it seems that the NAV models always have a lower residual vs NON-NAV models.

    By the way, I got another quote on the 2008 Acura TL Type-S: MSRP $38,940

    $1,000 total drive off (due at signing, inc 1st payment + taxes + some fees)
    $450.00/mo + TAX = $484.87 a month for 36 month lease 10k miles/yr.

    SWEEEEEEET!! I am gonna take delivery at end of month.
  • I'm amazed at your $485/mo lease price. How did you do that for a 2008 TL Type-S? Is it a 6-spd manual?

    Did you get a residual of 56% and money factor of .00081.
    what was your Cap Cost and what were your fees (bank acquisition fee plus doc fee plus first month would put it at around $1700 total drive off)?

    I'm ready to pull the trigger - but the best deal i've found in ATLANTA area is $524/mo including taxes for 36 mo, 10K per year.

    interested in your deal points, pls tell more
  • I was amazed, too! I live here in Las Vegas, and we have 2 Acura Dealers. In California, there are many more. So I emailed a few dealers in Southern Ca. and got quotes, then sent a counter quote back to them. Some played, some said "take it or leave it, buddy."

    I got Cap Cost (selling price) down to $35,875.00 (which is about $45.00 over inv.)
    MSRP is $38,940.00 (inc dest charges)
    Money Factor is 0.00081
    Residual is 56% (10k miles/yr)
    Dealer DOC is set at $45.00 maximum in state of California.
    Acura Bank Fee is fixed at $595
    $1,000 due at signing includes: 1st pmt/tax, dealer DOC, tag/reg, cap red) I think the Bank Fee got rolled into lease.

    It is a 2008 Acura TL Type-S AUTOMATIC

    REMEMBER.............Dealer HOLDBACK is 3% of MSRP for Acura!!! Meaning, you could get for Invoice or BELOW, because dealer will get 3% on MSRP back from Acura (as long as car hasn't sat on lot for longer than 90 days).

    Good luck on grinding out you deal!! Shoot for $100-$200 over invoice and tell the dealer that you won't budge.
  • Which dealership in Atlanta gave you that one? Is that a 'sign and drive' lease (with nothing OOP)?

    The best deal I have (and I am supposed to sign and pickup my TL-S tomorrow) is $545 including tax for 12K miles per year on a 'sign and drive' lease (both Ed Voyles Acura and Jackson Acura). Nalley quoted me $532 but they failed to put in in writing (via email) and I was not 100% sure if it was for 10K or 12K miles per year which (would add about $10 per month).

    If you see this...please respond! Thanks.
  • Hello all,
    I am getting price quotes for $29,500 for non-nav and $31,500 for nav models as selling prices plus $399 doc fees and TTL. It seems this is with $2000 dealer cash that Acura is currently offering. Only problems seems to be that dealer cash cant be used with leases and I really want to lease. Anyone know what the money factor would be normally without the special or what the best i could get with another bank other than honda/acura financial services?

    Also I hear that there is 3% holdback on the TL. Can any one tell me what the actual invoice is for the 08 TL with and without nav?

  • You are right!! You have to choose $2,000 incentive on purchase, OR special Interest can't get both........I tried, too!!

    Ok. I know RIGHT NOW, thru 1/2/08, the Interest Rate on LEASE is 1.92% (money factor = 0.00081)
    ****Normally, it would be in the 6-7% range (money factor = 0.0025 - 0.0029)
    ****Lease on the TL is absolutely a STEAL RIGHT NOW!!!

    Purchase interest rate (without the $2,000) is good, too. I think 1.9%/2.9%/3.9% or so on 36/48/60 month purchases.

    THE HOLDBACK is 3%, but it applies to Acuras that have only been on the dealer's lot LESS THAN 90 days. Good luck trying to get "into" the Dealer Holdback........that's tough.

    You should be able to get a BASE TL (non-Navi) for Under INVOICE.
    A TL/Navi........maybe shoot for INVOICE, but settle for $100-$200 over.
    A TL Type-S........with a lot of haggling.......I got to INVOICE.
    Then, take OFF the $2,000 incentive and finance it thru a Credit Union or bank, IF YOU PLAN TO PURCHASE.
    So........Invoice - $2,000 = $XX,XXX. Then Finance $XX,XXX to purchase.
    (You would have to see if the $2,000 incentive IS BETTER THAN the special interest rates currently running thru Honda Financial (Acura).

    Good luck!!! Hope this helps!!!
  • A follow-up to my own post:

    Picked up my 2008 TL-S from Ed Voyles Acura in Atlanta yesterday. $545 per month including 7% tax on a 36 month, 12K miles per year 'sign and drive' lease (no money out of pocket).

    Michael Iscaro, the internet sales manager, was a pleasure to deal with and there was little or no haggling involved. His first price was the best by about $15 per month. I was in and out in less than 1 hour!

    Now on to sit in Atlanta traffic....hopefully the Real-time traffic on the Navigation system will help me!
  • I have a lease expiring on a 2005 TL. The windshield has to be replaced. It was my understanding that they would allow $500 towards a new windshield (full replacement cost $856, so I was expecting to owe $356). Honda Financial is now telling me that any single damage that exceeds $500 has no allowance whatsoever and that I owe the full amount. This is not the way I read the brochure put out by Acura. Has anyone else encountered this problem or I am totally misunderstanding the policy? The lady whom I spoke with called me back a few minutes later and said if I would lease another Acura they would waive $400. But that isn't the issue- it's whether people are being misled.
  • Sacdriver:

    I have an '05 TL lease maturing at the end of April and I recently received my lease end materials. In the end of lease guide, in the section "HERE'S HOW TO END YOUR LEASE AND RETURN YOUR VEHICLE", under "Step Two" is the following:

    "One of the major advantages of financing with American Honda Financial Services is that you have an excessive-wear-and-use allowance of $1,500, which may cover you completely. (Your statement will reflect this waived amount. Please note this allowance will not cover damage caused by a single event that exceeds $500.)"

    Compared to other lease experiences I have had, the $1,500 allowance is generous, although the application of the policy to moderate and major damage makes no sense, in my opinion. Unfortunately, it appears that the application of their policy to your situation is correct.
  • Well I interpreted this to mean that while they would waive $1500 in damage, they would not waive more than $500 for any one event, not that they would allow nothing at all. I asked several friends to read the clause and they agreed with me. I just don't like being deceived. They need to rephrase the clause to say "If any one event exceeds $500, no allowance will be permitted". In addition, having been driving for over 40 years, I have never had a cracked windshield, yet 3 people I have met with TL's say they have cracks also. Even the lease-end inspector told me that Acura's seem to have a much higher incidence of windshield damage.
  • Thanks vegasrph,
    I ran the numbers and leasing with another company does not make sense, just too high of a payment and residuals were a little less than acura is giving right now too. We may purchase it out of lease but just dont want to pay that much now, in payment or put down. I guess we will just have to suck it up and pay $31,500 for non nav or $33,500 with nav. Should be able to keep the payment at or below $400 per month still.
  • 23109vc23109vc Posts: 218
    i'm not sure how many of you are considering a 335 BMW while shoppiong for the TL-S.

    the 335 will cost more for a less equpped car, but if you care about speed/power/handling,t he 335 is the better car. but the TL-S is a way better bang for the buck. hands down.

    one factor i'm taking into account is maintenance. if you lease for 3 years, a BMW will have 0 maintenance costs. tires would be all you'd pay for.

    I have a 2007 MDX and it's been in for it's routine services, and despite only having 10k on the car, it's already cost us a few hundred in basic services....i can imagine over the life of the car, assuming i might have to do brakes once - i'mgoing to wind up spending at least $1000-1500 in routine maintenance.

    if i spend 1000 / 36 = $30/month. if it was as high as 2k, then you're up to 60/month.

    i would think the price diff between a TL-s and a minimaly equipped 335 would be around 100 apart or so...soif maintenance is that much, once you add that in, itmight actually be relatively "even" to lease a 335..if you don't mind missing nav, etc. give up some techno toys for mega power. :) both cars are great.

    i'm just trying to get a realistic idea of how much routine repairs/maintenance willb e ona TL-S over a 36 month lease.

    also - if you are looking to minimize payments - what is the sweet spot for the current leases on the TL-S? 36 or 42? when i leased the MDX, the 42 month lease was more affordable...
  • I read your post, and I feel I must respond. I am currently leasing a 2006 BMW 325i and I have to say the "free maintenence" has been nice..........the car has been to the dealer 5 times for electrical/engine/exhaust issues!! The o2 sensor went out at 6,000 miles!! My trunk unlocks, then immediately locks itself if I use the key MUST use the inside the car can't figure it out!! I am on my 4th set of wiper blades (free of course), but it hardly rains in the desert!! RIGHT NOW, my car won't start gives me a "steering locked" warning about 8/10 times I want to start my thinks it is ignition related. WOW! my HONEST opinion......I will NEVER own/lease another BMW. The "free maintenence" is NOT are paying for it in the payment (somewhere).......don't let them fool you.
    My vehicle was $36,000+ and it doesn't even have LEATHER!! Leatherette is vinyl. No Nav, No BLUETOOTH, Single disc CD, No XM/Sirius Radio, 215HP (slow), etc.
    To get a 335i with similar options as a TL-Type S, you are looking at spending around $45,000+. (Lease payments on bimmerfest are showing $650/mo range)
    Owning a BMW is out of the question........way too many problems. I am a member of bimmerfest, just read the blogs about cooling (overheating) issues of the 335i.........that's enough for me NOT to even consider one. BMW had to reconfigue the cooling system on the 335i (turbo), because alot of 335i owner's cars were overheating & shutting down!! It actually happened in one HIGHLY PUBLISHED magazine that tests the test between BMW 335i & Infiniti G37.
    I am not the only person who feels this way after owning one, don't let all the car magazines fool you on the BMW performance will have to drive it on a daily basis.
    That's my 2 cents.
  • 23109vc23109vc Posts: 218
    i've seen people posting 07s selling in the 32-33k range.

    anyone got an 08 down to that price point?

    if you can get THAT price with the curent MF - the deals would be great.
  • Best deal I have been giving in WRITING was:
    2008 Acura TL-Type S (automatic) MSRP $38,940
    Selling Price $35,716.00 ($150 below invoice)
    The lease I am going to sign on this deal is:
    36mo/10k miles yr
    56% Residual
    $595 Acura Bank Fee
    $1,000 due at sign (includes 1st payment/tax + dealer fees)
    $450/mo + tax = $484/mo

    This is as good as it gets. Believe me..........I had to REALLY haggle to get this.

    There isn't going to be a way to get a $38,940 TL-S (NEW) for $32-33k range. Now, the Acura TL (Base) NO NAVI can be had for around $31,800 (MSRP $34,440) and the lease would be a SMOKING DEAL at $360-$370/mo + tax with $1,000 due at signing, too!! The reason is the residual on TL BASE is 59% and MSRP is $4500 LESS than the TL-S.
  • 23109vc23109vc Posts: 218
    wondering - are the residuals / payments better on a 42 months lease on a TL vs a 36 month lease?

    the car would still be nder warranty, but given that ocsts are spread over another 6 months, it might make payments slightly lower.

    it seems with each car - there is a a "sweet spot" at which the MF/residual/etfc all "line up" to give you the best bang for the buck so to speak... some cars brands it's a 24 month vs the 36, some it's 36.

    is 36 month the best lease on a TL or would going slightly longer net a lower price or does the residual plummet and it's not a good deal?
  • 23109vc23109vc Posts: 218
    not bad. I have a trade that's woth 4-5k which i own free/clear. if i put tha toward the lease payments i could get more miles and/or really get the payment down.

    4000/36 months = 111 off. so 450 - 111 = 339 + tax.

    i'd be at about 365/month. not bad.

    my wife has a 2007 MDX which we leased....nothing down but fees and that was lets just say *more* than 450/month.. :) at the time we leased the MF was .0025 or in tha range. i wonder if we could convert to a buy and get a better rate and cut the payment a bit.. ?

    anyway....i may see what I can do. the BMW is my first choice for PERFORMANCE, but I also have practicalities in mind. I have three kids, and need to be able to fit 3 little ones across the back. the 3 series is tighter in the back. i currently have no probs fitting them and their car seats int he MDX and my Volvo s70 will fit them all too. i think the TL will fit's fairly large in the rear compared to the other cars in it's class.
  • I say go with the TL, and keep lease at 36 months. It usually isn't a good a good idea to lease longer than 36 months. Too many maintenece factors come into play: tires, brakes, etc. I don't know the residual off hand, but I would bet the "sweet spot" is the 36 month lease right now.
    The BMW was nice to have for the last 24 months (when it wasn't in the shop), but I've been there, done that.........first & last time for me. I subscribe to 3 car mags, and I was "brainwashed" into the BMW 3 series. Not this time. I am going back to Acura and getting the 286HP TL-S with all the goodies.........and a smoking lease deal!!! Its gonna save me about $200/mo vs BMW.
    My wife really likes the MDX (so do I), but we have a 2007 Infiniti FX35 that we leased for 3 years in Feb.........the lease was too good to pass up. $43k MSRP and we are paying $490/mo (tax included). The MDX was about $100 more a month with MORE $$$ due at signing (the money factor was awful on the MDX).
  • I picket up the TL/w Navi yesterday.

    $1,145 Out of pocket (Registration/Bank/First Month)

    I had a trade-in for $1000 and I also saved around a hundred because I transfered my plates. So I walked out paying $145...Nice for a first payment. Too bad I can't pay that all the time.

    Thanks for everyones posts as it really helped me get the lowest price!
  • 23109vc23109vc Posts: 218
    the MDX is great. we did a no down lease. we paid somethingl ike 900 in fees but no "cap reduction". we got a tech model that also had a few dealer add ons, nice running boards, and the roof racks/cross bars. we pay 650/month INCLUDING tax. i think it was like 610 or something before 600-604/month before taxes. not bad but at the time we got ours they were brand new and NO ONE was budging..i haggled my a$$ of to get that deal. the deal ont he TL-S is way better.

    i'm trying to talk myself into doing it. i currently have a 1999 S70 w/about 130k on the odomete.r it runs nice, is paid off, and is worth 4k or so in trade. if I were to keep that thing 3 more y ears, (and i HATE this car it's relatively FAST with a cat back exhaust on it..stock hp was like 240 and it's lighter than a i bet it runs the 1/4 in high high 14s to 15 flat's quick..but it handles like CRAP and is a box. no car payment...but it's still worth 4-5k and every year i keep it it will depreciate another grand or so as it ages and goes up in miles. plus it's gonna keep nickel and diming me on repairs over 36 months as it ages. i figure my true "cost" of driving the beat up volvo over the next 36 months is the 4-5k I lose as it's value approaches/nears ZERO,a nd another 2-3k in repairs that will probably crop up over 36 months. so you could say it will "cost" me 7-8k to drive this car into the ground. assuming it's worthless or near worthless in 3 years. it' won't be, but in 3 years with 150-160k on it, it will be worth maybe a grand or two if that.

    a TL-S..given the current deals, will cost me something like $450/month to lease (which is effectively paying hte depreciation on that car) - and I can trade in my S70 and burn up it's value to redue the cost of the lease. o r I could just sell the volvo outright and pocket 5k and "save" spending ANYmoney on repairs over the next 36 months.

    if you add up the lease payments of 450 * 36 months you get roughly $16,200. if I jsut kep my POS volvo, I'll "pay" 8000 in costs....repairs plus lost equity in my car or the depreciation over time as it becomes worthless.

    so essentially, to lease the TL costs me 8000 MORE than my current situation - spread over 36 months. which is a little over 200/month. not a bad price to pay for a bad a$$ sport sedan, nav, better handling, NO breakdowns, roadside assistance, the cool BT phone, a stereo that works (mine is bused in the volvo), etc etc.

    in 36 months, if i keep the volvo, it will be worthless and about to blow up. if i do the TL-s I can buy it or walk away - either scenario I'm left with "nothing". i just can keep the status quo and drive my volvo...or get a tL and accept a 200-225/month bump in car costs.

    or am I just telling myself nonsense voodoo math to justify buyijng a car id on't need???? my wife would say the latter. :) of course SHE has the MDX to drive... :)

    another unquantifiable factor is that i am a car freak. i love cars. if i wasn't married wih three kids, an dhad my same income..i'd be driving a TL as my daily driver and have a 911 or boxster S as a toy car... i read R&T C&D every month...and drool over cars on the intenet like other guys drool over porn... driving my lame [non-permissible content removed] volvo pains me. to have a cool car would seriously up my mental well being. maybe that makes me shallow...or a snob..or whatever..but that's how i am. i don't go for jewelry, or lavish vacations... i love cars. if i had no kids, hell i'd have some two seater roadster to tear up the streets...but with kids..someting like a TL-S, 335, Audi S4, is the ideal car.

    (i used to have an S60R a year ago, but sold it when baby #3 came and we needed the S60R had miles on it, was gonna cost me $$ in repairs so i unloaded it, profited some money (aka cut my losses) and got the MDX. now i'm dying for a fun car again. not interested in another volvo and my MDX is amazing..which makes me want another acura...

    thanks for letting me vent guys. :)
  • Dude, I hear you and agree. I am 6'5" tall, so unfortunately I can't "fit" into alot of the cars I drool over as well when I read R&T, Motor Trend, etc. I would LOVE to have a Porsche Boxter/Cayman, Honda S2000, or even a Mazda Miata for a "toy" to go out and drive on weekends. Too bad I can't fit in any of those. :(
    I did have a 2003 Nissan 350Z (loved it), but it was my daily driver (not so good for that). A Corvette (new 08) would be my only reasonable option for a "toy", but it isn't feasable right now.
    So.........the Acura TL-S will have to do. Yeah, its front wheel drive, yeah its NOT a BMW (well, that can be a good my earlier post), yeah it has a CASSETTE DECK (what the??? who has these anymore??)..........but.......its got 286HP, paddle shifters, NAV, sport seats/suspension, looks, and THE PRICE is hard to beat!!
    I like the Acura, its a GREAT front wheel drive car........even with torque steer. I can fit in it, it looks great, has a trunk that can hold golf clubs, comes LOADED, and it won't break the bank.
    Right now, thru 1/2/08, its really hard to pass up the TL. I mean, you get so much car for so little money.........why not??
  • 23109vc23109vc Posts: 218
    given the lease MF vs the $2000 off for purchases - would you buy or lease this thing?

    I have a trade that is worth about 4k. When I run the numbers on a lease (using my $4k in trade as cap reduction) vs a purchase at ballpark 5% interest, with a 4k down payment, assuming 72 months financing, it's still cheaper to lease.

    the downside to the lease is that at the end of 36 months, you have "nothing". no equity, you just give the car back, and that 4k cap reduction, and payments all were like "rent" for a car.

    the downside to buying, in my opinion, is that to get a payment even CLOSE to a lease payment, you need to stretch financing out to 60-72 months. then what happens is by the time you get to the 36-48 month range, your warranty is expiring, and in general, given the length of your repayment schedule and the typical depreciation curve - you really aren't ahead. you might be a tad upside down or a tad right side up, but basically, you owe what the car is worth. you'd need to get into the last year of your loan to really have "equity". so SIX years down the raod, i'd own a car that is now worht what? something..yeah..but how much have I blown in repairs, trips back forth to the shop, on a car that now has 90k miles on it....

    i guess in the long run, it may be more cost effective to buy, because 5-6 years later you "own" it and the car WILL have you own've paid lets say $35k to buy it, and in 6 years, it's worth maybe 10k...i dunno... maybe 6-8k... so if you factor that in, you are ahead...

    to me, in the short run, leasing is cheaper and more convenient. unless you want to keep the car 10 years. problem is, even with an Acura, when a car gets that old, it has problems, it's not fun anymore, you want somethign new, etc. no warranty sucks too.

    my current car is 8 years old, and i've easily spent a few grand in the past fwe years fixing it. so it's paid off, but i pay here and there for repairs. i sometimes feel i'd be better fof spending a bit more every month to have a new car, instead of having no car payment, but getting hit every 6 months with an 800 repair. and driving somethig unreliable..
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