Thanks for the info on the removal. What is the best way to remove those press nuts?
Well I ordered two off a guy and he sent me two different sizes. I am assuming that one if for the front and the other is for the rear. I got mine from Gear Jammin Accessories on Ebay. They were about $30 a piece plus shipping.
Now having second thoughts about the chrome. I saw a pic of a black bowtie paired with a chrome grille and it looks good. Do you have any pics of your chrome bowtie?
Unless you want to pull tree stumps, the 373's will work just fine, they will also give you slightly better GPM. IMHO The 410's are too low for most of us, they do increase trailer capacity by 1000 lbs, but if you really need that extra capacity, the Tahoe is probably the wrong choice.
I pulled the biggest U-haul trailer across country, loaded down and had no problem with an '02 Tahoe 5.3L with 3.73's. In fact, I rarely even needed a downshift out of OD until I hit a couple big hills in WV. I'd only buy the 4.10's if I was planning to tow near the max capacity on a regular basis.
I just reached in with a small socket wrench - 10mm. Nut was barely more than hand tight. (I misspoke when I called it a press nut. It's a regular nut, but pressed out of sheet metal. You'll see.)
I was thinking about a black bowtie too. I also added chrome grill and chrome tow hooks. I like it, but was thinking the black bowtie might have been a better choice, just didn't see any out there... I'd post a picture, but can't figure out how to do that yet.
Let me know if one of your ordered bowties turns out to be for the rear. I'm dying to find one of those...
thanks guys - i'll stick with the 3.73 The dealer showed me his invoice on the "official GM printout" and asked how much over that I wanted to pay. Of course I replied nothing and he said fine, sign here. I did but when I got home edmunds shows invoice(inc dest charges) to be at $40,800 but he said it was at $41,700. When I called later to confront him on that he stood by his "invoice" and said they weren't making a dime off of me. I'm still happy in that it's $3700 off of sticker with about 10 secs of negotiating
Is this just an incredible deal or is there some GM money hidden in there somewhere that dealers are not telling us about?
I have been considering adding the chrome tow hooks as well. I like that the black bowtie isnt everywhere and I have been considering painting my gold one but would rather not. I would prefer an OEM replacement.
If you or I am able to find a black bowtie for the front I will sell you my set of chrome bowties for cheap. That way you can get one that will fit the back of your setup.
Regarding what is really invoice, there always seems to be a few hundred dollars difference between what's on-line, and the dealer's numbers. But as for "not making a dime", that's not exactly true.
There is a thing called "hold-back", which is paid (or credited) to the dealer after the sale. This is something like 1.75% or more of the "invoice" cost. You could say that "technically" it is not profit realized at the time of sale, but that's semantics.
the 07 yukons don't have drls (daytime running lamps) like the 07 tahoe.
on the yukon, the headlights are always on and are used as a drls during the day (dim) then as headlights at night.
Does anyone know if it would be possible to get HID's put in? i see some kits that are sold at places like jpcustoms but are for the tahoe exclusively.
Does anyone know what type of bulb the yukon uses? its definitely not 9005 or 9006 like the 01-06's.
its kind of ticks me off that i buy a 54k denali and it doesn't at least have HIDs.
Anyone try a cushioned ball mount yet on your 2007? I'm wondering if it will stop the jerking. The drop required will still have a mechanical advantage so I dont think it will stop the jerking but maybe reduce it.
Pic posting instructions are in the Help link on the left.
But an easier way is to set up a CarSpace album. Go to CarSpace.com and log in with your Edmunds user name and password - that sets up your page. Then edit your album and it's easy to browse your hard disk and paste photos from it.
Picked up my new splash guards today from the dealer. Ordered the splash guards for an '07 Cadilac Escalade. They will fit my '07 Tahoe LTZ. The difference between the Chevy and the Cadilac is the Caddies's are painted. Very sharp. Will spend a little time in the garage this weekend to mount them.
I have an LT3 with 4.10's as that was the only way I could get the G80 locking differential when I ordered mine. I find the 4.10's to be a nice addition for intown driving (helps to get the Tahoe moving easier) but if you are going to be driving a doing a lot of highway in your daily commute - you may want to look at the 3.73's to help lower highway rpm and increase milage. I have just a tick over 1k on mine so far. Combined milage 50/50 highway/city for the last tank was 14.8 with the only highway road trip thus far (performed with around 450 miles on it) was 17.8 but was DEFITELY still breaking in. I will be taking it for a 700 mile round trip in another 2 weeks and will have a better idea of what true highway milage will be then (highway speeds of 70 - 80mph) After I get back I will be bolting on a Zoomer's Cat back exhaust that is supposed to be good for both additional ponies and milage and may help the 5.3 breath a bit better at highway rpms. Hope that helps! Todd
Straight up cash deal - just drove it home. Just to make sure this was the truck that my wife & I wanted, we walked the lot one last time and actually found an LT3 highly optioned that we considered with an MSRP of $50,700. He showed me the onvoice of that one at $46,660 and said he'd sell it for $45,660. Talk about tempting....and easy negotiating! We did stick with the original one though as wife really liked it.
As a parting word since we are about to move out of state, he said always just deal with the internet guys - they don't have the time to haggle and will usually get to the bottom line.
Hope this helps some people. And if for some reason you think I got a bad deal - I don't want to hear - I don't care :shades:
RE: SPLASH GUARDS Hey, you think you could get me a part number for ordering those? i've been looking at the listings on ebay but i can't tell if they are the painted ones or not due to the generic pic.
Ok I hate to brag, but since your on the subject, I purchased my LTZ with a list of $50,195 (everything but the rear entertainment DVD - no kids) for $44,400 ($5795 off sticker) also very little negotiating, however this is my 3rd Tahoe from this dealer. I was able to get the dealer to dip into the “holdback” and he also had access to some “Dealer Cash” The only incentive I know of is the “Purchase to Purchase” incentive that allows the dealer (if he so desires) to add $1500 to any trade 2000 or newer. This did not apply to my cash deal. Hope this helps.
Looks like there are plenty of good deals going around! The only reason he said he couldn't make our deal any sweeter was because he had to trade for the car from another dealer. I literally almost bought the one on his lot just because it was such a big percentage off of list (much like the other deals posted here) but then I'd be buying it for the wrong reason!?!? All that matters is that I'm happy with our new ride
We adamantly did not want a sunroof so we did not get the rear DVD entertainment system that, we were told, goes hand-in-hand with the sunroof. Doesn't matter as there are only two of us.
BUT, I'd like to pay someone, off the record of course, to be able to play DVD's in my nav screen. I know if you have the rear entertainment system, DVD's can be played on the nav screen while the car is in park so I tried putting in Caddyshack into the nav dvd slot but no success - "disc read error".
So, has anyone heard of converting the STOCK option U3U into playing DVD's afterall? I amfraid I know the answer but just wanted to be sure.
BTW, this is my first XM radio experience and think that we will continue the subscription after our trial period.
Congrats to all you new owners; don't forget to post details of your deals over in the Chevy Tahoe: Prices Paid & Buying Experiences discussion (and thanks to those who've already done so!).
Posting some pics of your new rides (and those mods) over on your page would be nice too.
Anybody bought or heard of that airraid air filter that has several auctions going on over on that "big auction website"? They say about a 20hp increase and 20ft-lb increase of torque along with improved gas mileage? Too good to be true?
I installed one 3 weeks ago. Bunch of money, easy to install. Definately adds horsepower and torque. I can feel the difference. Not sure its 20hp+. The increase in airflow is louder, you can hear it inside and outside. Mine did not add mileage, even when I keep my foot out of it. IMO you either get HP& Torque -OR- gas mileage, not both. If I were going to buy a CAI system again I would consider the True Flow system or the AFE system. Actually I think the cheapest way to go is with an AFE Torque Boost tube, the stock airbox and a K&N filter element. The airraid was the first I found, its OK.
I don't really care about the cost(to an extent of course!) but I just want the one that I will see the most gain from with doing the least amount of detriment to the car - but I don't really think any of them will do harm huh?
A few people have added K&N air filters to their Porsches and the minimal oil that comes on them has actually screwed up their Mass Air Flow sensors ($300 part x2) and thrown error codes. I'm guessing that chevys are not going to be as "sensitive" as porsches?
Last question - I promise! Will it be better for the engine, i.e. less carbon deposits, and better efficiency/momre power form utitlizing supreme(93) vs regular(87) gas? I swore I could tell a difference in my old '99 tahoe with 50K miles but I could've just been imagining it.
Instead of going by the seat of your pants, why not get some baselines done? (mpg tests are free; dyno testing can peg your before and after HP to some extent).
If you jump back a ways up this board, all the way to #827, you'll find a lot of answers. I'm not sure which, if any is right, but a lot of voices sounded off on the octane issue...
See my earlier post on this, adds 20+ hp at the top of the RPM curve, I attached a graph to my last post, if you are going to run the Tahoe hard, you will see the difference, for normal driving, probably not so much.
Well I think I have found my first disappointment with my new Tahoe (other than the "Torque Management" system) and that is that while the Tahoe has a nice BIG compartment in the console, I REALLY miss having the change organizer that was built into my LeSabre console. Does anyone know of a company making an organizer that drops into the big compartment under the arm rest? With having to have change handy for tolls, etc - having it piled into the area in front of the cup holders or in one of the two cup holders doesn't work to well for me. (it sneaks under the cup holder insert and a second insert assembly for the front portion of that tray area is $74 at my dealer! :surprise: ) Sooooo - any thoughts, insites etc would be appreciate guy! Thanks! TuscoTodd
junglegeorge - The issue I have with the Torque Management that is built into the system is the limitations it puts on output based on vehicle speed, speed with which throttle was applied and what the computer actually allows to happen. For normal driving conditions it isn't too big of a deal but to be blunt, when I floor the throttle, I want/need everything the motor/drive train is capable of and I really don't want the computer restricting output through fuel/timing/etc. restriction. There is a lot of information on this feature available, but from what I understand it is basically put in place to keep people from tearing up their drive lines and creating warranty issues. But when a 300+ hp vehicle, with 4.10 gears and 17" wheels gives a "simulated" bog type feeling when you floor it to "accellerate out of danger" - I find that disappointing. From what I have read, the various tuning services, Westers, Wait4me, etc. can over ride/tone down this feature to allow much more response out of the hole - so more than likely, that is the route that I will be going after I get the first oil change under the belt. Other than that, I REALLY like the new Tahoe. Fit, finish and overall design are heads and tails above the '06 design in my book and the ride and handling a very nice with the LT3 package. I looked at stepping up to the LTZ, but I ordered mine in February, and the dealer told me that the LTZ would add an extra 3-4 weeks to the delivery. That tied with the fact that I do take mine off road camping, hunting etc, I figured I would be better off with the taller sidewalls of the 17's over the 20's.
George, Thanks for the links - I appreciate it! That wasn't quite what I had in mind (was thinking a stationary unit) - but that may work just as well if not better! Thanks!
I know we discussed this topic in earlier posts but when i took my Tahoe to the dealer he said i should be using the "oil life " display on the DIC to tell me when to change my oil. He says when there is less than 10% oil life left i should bring it in. I do not drive my Tahoe very much so i estimate that if i go by his recommendation it would not get changed until after it had over 7000 miles on it?? This doesnt sound right. What is everyone else using, 3000 miles, oil life display??
I have not taken delivery of the LTZ yet, if your talking about the CAI, YES, most defiantly, I pull my boat through the Adirondacks with my 04 LT, it really helps on the hills.
hey all. Im having trouble with my chrome tow hooks. Im having trouble getting to all of the bolts holding the factory ones in. Any tips besides trying to remove all the bumper molding around the mounts for better accessto the bolts?
I absolutely love it. It is quite different from my other car, a porsche turbo that has now been sitting in the garage. I've caught myself several times nearly hitting a stationary object just because of not being used to the size of this thing. We are trying to drive the tahoe as much as possible to "break it in" before we use it to tow a uhaul trailer from Atlanta to Midland, TX. I only imagine that if we do end up keeping it, we'll only put about 3K miles a yr on it. I only average about 6K miles a year as is with one car
Not sure who told you that sunroof and DVD go hand-in-hand. I got the DVD w/o the sunroof. The DVD for the rear screen and the Nav (when in Park) goes in the CD slot. Don't know if there would be any way for you to do that on yours tho.
I've always used the oil-life monitor on my GM trucks/SUV's. They've been using this system since '99 and I know quite a few folks with very high mileage engines with no problems. Unless you're going over 12 months (or anywhere near that) then the monitor is fine. 7k miles oil changes are probably on the high-end for standard non-synthetic oil, but if you're only driving the vehicle on long trips, that's certainly possible and probably more than adequate. The monitor takes into account for the number of cold starts, idling, etc. Mine usually needed changed around 5k miles for a mix of driving.
I just got my LT3 with the Nav and rear DVD player. Can you have your child watching a DVD in the rear and play a CD at the same time? I haven't tried to put both in yet and have read the manual and they don't address this. I don't want to jam up the player. On another note, this is my 4th Tahoe and by far the best. Had a '96, '00, '03 Z71 and now this. I wish my commute was longer than 20 minutes!! So many improvements and plan to have this one longer than the others. I've enjoyed reading all of your posts and have ordered accessories based on your recommendations. Thanks!!
Comments
Well I ordered two off a guy and he sent me two different sizes. I am assuming that one if for the front and the other is for the rear. I got mine from Gear Jammin Accessories on Ebay. They were about $30 a piece plus shipping.
Now having second thoughts about the chrome. I saw a pic of a black bowtie paired with a chrome grille and it looks good. Do you have any pics of your chrome bowtie?
I just reached in with a small socket wrench - 10mm. Nut was barely more than hand tight. (I misspoke when I called it a press nut. It's a regular nut, but pressed out of sheet metal. You'll see.)
I was thinking about a black bowtie too. I also added chrome grill and chrome tow hooks. I like it, but was thinking the black bowtie might have been a better choice, just didn't see any out there... I'd post a picture, but can't figure out how to do that yet.
Let me know if one of your ordered bowties turns out to be for the rear. I'm dying to find one of those...
Dett LTZ
Is this just an incredible deal or is there some GM money hidden in there somewhere that dealers are not telling us about?
I have been considering adding the chrome tow hooks as well. I like that the black bowtie isnt everywhere and I have been considering painting my gold one but would rather not. I would prefer an OEM replacement.
If you or I am able to find a black bowtie for the front I will sell you my set of chrome bowties for cheap. That way you can get one that will fit the back of your setup.
Anyone know how to Post pics in a reply?
There is a thing called "hold-back", which is paid (or credited) to the dealer after the sale. This is something like 1.75% or more of the "invoice" cost. You could say that "technically" it is not profit realized at the time of sale, but that's semantics.
Dave
on the yukon, the headlights are always on and are used as a drls during the day (dim) then as headlights at night.
Does anyone know if it would be possible to get HID's put in? i see some kits that are sold at places like jpcustoms but are for the tahoe exclusively.
Does anyone know what type of bulb the yukon uses? its definitely not 9005 or 9006 like the 01-06's.
its kind of ticks me off that i buy a 54k denali and it doesn't at least have HIDs.
any help?
Pic posting instructions are in the Help link on the left.
But an easier way is to set up a CarSpace album. Go to CarSpace.com and log in with your Edmunds user name and password - that sets up your page. Then edit your album and it's easy to browse your hard disk and paste photos from it.
Check out my album for an example. :shades:
Steve, Host
I have just a tick over 1k on mine so far. Combined milage 50/50 highway/city for the last tank was 14.8 with the only highway road trip thus far (performed with around 450 miles on it) was 17.8 but was DEFITELY still breaking in.
I will be taking it for a 700 mile round trip in another 2 weeks and will have a better idea of what true highway milage will be then (highway speeds of 70 - 80mph)
After I get back I will be bolting on a Zoomer's Cat back exhaust that is supposed to be good for both additional ponies and milage and may help the 5.3 breath a bit better at highway rpms.
Hope that helps!
Todd
As a parting word since we are about to move out of state, he said always just deal with the internet guys - they don't have the time to haggle and will usually get to the bottom line.
Hope this helps some people. And if for some reason you think I got a bad deal - I don't want to hear - I don't care :shades:
Hey, you think you could get me a part number for ordering those? i've been looking at the listings on ebay but i can't tell if they are the painted ones or not due to the generic pic.
any help would be killer!
52,035 for 47,062
every option. Gold Mist
These are for the black ones.
We adamantly did not want a sunroof so we did not get the rear DVD entertainment system that, we were told, goes hand-in-hand with the sunroof. Doesn't matter as there are only two of us.
BUT, I'd like to pay someone, off the record of course, to be able to play DVD's in my nav screen. I know if you have the rear entertainment system, DVD's can be played on the nav screen while the car is in park so I tried putting in Caddyshack into the nav dvd slot but no success - "disc read error".
So, has anyone heard of converting the STOCK option U3U into playing DVD's afterall? I amfraid I know the answer but just wanted to be sure.
BTW, this is my first XM radio experience and think that we will continue the subscription after our trial period.
Posting some pics of your new rides (and those mods) over on your
Steve, Host
A few people have added K&N air filters to their Porsches and the minimal oil that comes on them has actually screwed up their Mass Air Flow sensors ($300 part x2) and thrown error codes. I'm guessing that chevys are not going to be as "sensitive" as porsches?
And any suggestion on where to buy one of these?
thanks!
Any ideas?
Instead of going by the seat of your pants, why not get some baselines done? (mpg tests are free; dyno testing can peg your before and after HP to some extent).
Steve, Host
If you jump back a ways up this board, all the way to #827, you'll find a lot of answers. I'm not sure which, if any is right, but a lot of voices sounded off on the octane issue...
Sooooo - any thoughts, insites etc would be appreciate guy!
Thanks!
TuscoTodd
Coin Storage -1
Coin Storage-2
George
The issue I have with the Torque Management that is built into the system is the limitations it puts on output based on vehicle speed, speed with which throttle was applied and what the computer actually allows to happen. For normal driving conditions it isn't too big of a deal but to be blunt, when I floor the throttle, I want/need everything the motor/drive train is capable of and I really don't want the computer restricting output through fuel/timing/etc. restriction.
There is a lot of information on this feature available, but from what I understand it is basically put in place to keep people from tearing up their drive lines and creating warranty issues.
But when a 300+ hp vehicle, with 4.10 gears and 17" wheels gives a "simulated" bog type feeling when you floor it to "accellerate out of danger" - I find that disappointing.
From what I have read, the various tuning services, Westers, Wait4me, etc. can over ride/tone down this feature to allow much more response out of the hole - so more than likely, that is the route that I will be going after I get the first oil change under the belt.
Other than that, I REALLY like the new Tahoe. Fit, finish and overall design are heads and tails above the '06 design in my book and the ride and handling a very nice with the LT3 package.
I looked at stepping up to the LTZ, but I ordered mine in February, and the dealer told me that the LTZ would add an extra 3-4 weeks to the delivery. That tied with the fact that I do take mine off road camping, hunting etc, I figured I would be better off with the taller sidewalls of the 17's over the 20's.
Thanks for the links - I appreciate it!
That wasn't quite what I had in mind (was thinking a stationary unit) - but that may work just as well if not better!
Thanks!
http://www.premiertruckaccessories.com/2007gmescalade.html
True Flow at this site
http://www.premiermotoring.net/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?catid=1521
Any tips from people who have done the mod?
Collins
It was purchased at a GM dealership. Both styles are
available as GM accessories.