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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • pas379pas379 Posts: 3
    previous posting #47.... took the Durango back to the dealer. they now said it could be a cracked head.Had them pull the head and "YES" the head was cracked.
    saw it myself. hopefully this will fix the a cost of $1400.00! For some reason the heater seems to be working better now also.
  • ABS & Brake light caused by a ABS wheel sensor. I drove a '99 D for almost a year like this without any problem - ABS never worked on the D anyway. The speedometer problem (I'm told) is a vacuum problem on my truck caused by a leaking head gasket and I can't recall if the O2 sensor is also responsible, but I know its also getting replaced. I have been going through 2 quarts of oil between oil changes since this problem surfaced. My speedometer won't operate until the D reaches 20 MPH. Before this problem surfaced my D was doing really loud engine noise at start 0-20MPH (perhaps higher engine revs) until I reached 20 MPH when it would quiet down to normal engine noise. During this time my transmission would downshift when I made left hand turns at ANY speed. Then one day, the transmission quit down shifting at left hand turns, the engine noise at start went away and it ran normal for 6 months, but then the noise returned. Dealer head gasket repair $1,200 & ABS sensor $300 approx.
  • I need instructions on how to re-program the keyless remote(FOB), for a 2003 Durango SXT (SPORT). I lost my manual during a move, and am trying to avoid the dealer's $40 charge for re-programming. Can anyone help?

  • halilhalil Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Dodge Durango.. Summer time in Florida it was overheating and cutting the power of the engine, after the engine cools of. you can start again, for this problem
    Mechanic changed the Gasket set, water pump. Took of the radiator and cleaned the radiator holes. Changed the spark plugs. But I am not sure if this fixed the problem? Because 1 month later I got my car from mechanic shop and the weather was colder because of weather was colder I did not see overheating. But I still have engine power cut of problem and I am thinking when the car was overheating it my damaged to some sensors and mechanic can not figure out the problem,
    Now when you drive the car about 15 miles it stops while you are driving. engine lights comes on.
    After finely if I can pull the car to save side of the road before have a crush I stop. and try to start the car but there is no power goes to starter, I can have head lights and parking lights on everything is on ok.
    But no power for starter and spark plucks, but if you wait 10 -15 minutes I can start the car again,
    So after the mechanic changed all those parts I thing still doing overheating but can not tell because the weather is colder now.
    And I thin when it was overheating summer time before all those parts chanced I thing overheating damaged some of the censors.
    But I do not know what censors that could be. It cuts of the power only from starter and comes back on after it cools down and I know there is no problem with starter and the battery or any fuse. and there is no problem with the fan
    If anybody can help me with this problem I will be very thankful
  • I am having the same problem that just started. I am gonna change the fan clutch just a guess though. if you have found the answer plewase forward that you tom
  • ka9nynka9nyn Posts: 1
    Here is the info for a 2001 durango. Should be the same.

    2001 Dodge Truck Durango 4WD V8-5.9L VIN Z LDC

    Top - Vehicle
    Accessories and Optional Equipment
    . Keyless Entry
    . . Technical Service Bulletins
    . . . Keyless Entry - Programming Procedure



    Keyless Entry - Programming Procedure

    NUMBER: 08-007-02

    GROUP: Electrical

    DATE: Mar. 25, 2002

    Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Programming Procedures


    1999 - 2002 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon

    1999 - 2002 (AN) Dakota

    1999 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Pickup

    1999 - 2002 (DN) Durango

    2002 (DR) Ram Pickup

    2001 - 2002 (JR) Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan/Sebring Convertible

    2002 (KJ) Liberty

    1999 - 2002 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M

    1999 - 2000 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

    1999 - 2002 (PL) Neon

    1999 - 2002 (PR) Prowler

    2001 - 2002 (PT) PT Cruiser

    2001 - 2002 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

    1999 - 2002 (WJ) Grand Cherokee

    1999 - 2001 (XJ) Cherokee


    A Remote keyless Entry (RKE) Programming Procedures Card (Publication No. 81-170-00011) is being provided with this Technical Service Bulletin to simplify RKE transmitter programming on 1999 - 2002 North American vehicles. Additional copies of the RKE publication, 81-170-00011 (Fig. 1), can be ordered from DDS Distribution Services, LTD. Their number is 1-800-890-4038.


    DaimlerChrysler North American Remote Keyless Entry Programming Procedures


    Program Method A (Customer Program Method)

    1. Press (LOCK) button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

    2. Turn ignition to run position. (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

    3. Using any original (working) transmitter, press the [UNLOCK] button for 4 to 10 seconds.

    4. Within the specified 4 to 10 seconds, continue pressing the [UNLOCK] button and press the [PANIC] button for 1 second and release both buttons (AN/DN release either button first). A chime will sound to indicate that the transmitter programming mode has been entered (allow 3 seconds for chime to sound).

    5. Press [LOCK] and [UNLOCK] buttons simultaneously for 1 second and release (a short chime will sound for AN/DN).

    6. Press and release any button on the same transmitter and a chime will sound after successfully programming the transmitter (locks will cycle for AN/DN).


    7. Repeat steps 5 through 6 to program additional transmitters.

    8. Turn ignition to OFF position. Transmitter programming mode v/ill discontinue after 60 seconds (30 seconds for AN/DN and RS). (All transmitter programming must be completed within time specified).

    Program Method B (Customer Program Method)

    1. Press [LOCK] button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

    2. Turn ignition to the run position (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

    3. Using original transmitter, press and hold the [UNLOCK] button on the transmitter for between 4 and 10 seconds.

    4. Continue to hold the [UNLOCK] button and press the [PANIC] button. A chime will sound to indicate that the transmitter programming mode has been entered (Allow 3 seconds for chime to sound).

    5. Press a button on all transmitters to be programmed into the system including any previously programmed transmitters; a chime will sound when each transmitter has been programmed.

    6. Turn the ignition to OFF position to exit the transmitter programming mode.

    Program Method C (Dealer Program Method) *Can be used for any type transmitter.

    1. Press [LOCK] button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

    2. Turn ignition to the run position (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

    3. Plug DRBIII to vehicle's 1-way data link connector.

    4. Follow Service Manual and DRBIII instructions to program transmitters.

    Program Method D (For use with AB vehicles not equipped with VTSS only)

    1. Locate the dark green program enable wire connected to pin # 1 of the 16-way data link connector under the left side of the instrument panel.

    2. Connect the program enable wire terminal to a good ground.

    3. Insert the key into the ignition and turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The power locks will cycle (Lock and Unlock) indicating that program mode has been entered.

    4. Using the transmitter to be programmed, press either [LOCK] or [UNLOCK]. The power locks will cycle indicating the transmitter has been programmed successfully.

    5. Repeat step 4 to program additional transmitter.

    6. Disconnect the program enable wire from ground to exit program mode.

    7. Turn the ignition to the OFF position and remove the key.


    Information Only
    Copyright © 2006 ALLDATA LLC
    Terms of Use
  • the same happened just days after I bought my 2003 durango. As silly as this may sound...more than likely it is the handle of your oil dipstick. the techs at the service center were baffled as to what was causing the noise...and finally came up with that solution. the handle of the stick is vibrating on the underside of the hood and wind---from the acceleration (beginning probably around 45-50 mph--getting worse with more speed) is causing the very loud and annoying whistle. try bending the handle of your dipstick down/off to the side. That may be your cure.
  • mviteomviteo Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with hesitation and would like to change the fuel filter,but,Dodge has made them unservicable.There is not one to be found anywhere on the vehicle,so I am assuming that it is in the fuel tank itself.My question is,has anyone tried to change one or found a way to remove it from the tank and replace it in line under the vehicle or under the hood?Thx.
  • tonyaktonyak Posts: 1
    It's the rear speed sensor. My mechanic charged me $45 to replace. Have also replaced the speed sensor in transmission. Now having problems with sludge under oil cap.
  • Own a 2003 Dodge R/T with 52,000 miles. It seems to shift hard between 10 and 15 mph as I let off the gas in parking lots. I also get the same problem when I am on the freeway, as I back off the gas around 45-50 mph. It only "clunks" hard when letting off the gas. It started having problems around 30,000 took it in and they keep telling me it's normal? I owned a 2000 Durango SLT and never had this happen and put 73,000 miles on it before I traded it in for the R/T. They finally worked on it and said it was the torque converter, two weeks later it is getting worse. Dose any body have any idea what this might be before I go back in to have a go around with the dealer. I do have full bumper to bumper, but it runs out at 70,000. Thanks
  • I have experienced lots of problems with over-heating. I have a 99 Durango. However, I've never had the engine shut down. I first had the thermostat changed out. A year later to the day, I had another thermostat changed out. About 3 months after that, the car was over-heating and I had the water pump replaced. Very soon after that, it was still over-heating. The garage found a leak (after completely removing the engine) and the whole problem seems to have been resolved. Fortunately, the car was under warranty. Hope this helps.
  • I know that my overhead console takes about 5 minutes or so to adjust...and that is normal. It's specifically designed to adjust slowly, since the temperature probe is in the engine compartment and the slow adjustment is to ensure that the engine temperature doesn't affect the reading. My understanding from speaking to a friend who works at the Chrysler technology center is that there is no specific time frame within which the temperature reading will adjust. It's kind of like the 'low fuel' warning light. They're all installed the same way, but some light up with 2 gallons left, some light up with 1 gallon left, some with 5 left. It's apparently in the computer console itself... and varies from unit to unit to some extent.
  • how do you get that shield off so i can get to the radiator plug
  • I have a 2004 Durango with the Hemi engine. Last week my check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer, and they told me one of the cylinders had carbon deposits in it. It only has 10,000 miles on it! I asked the service guy what I could do to prevent, like different grade of gas, or gas treatment, and all he could say was, "Well, if you didn't drive like a granny and step on it once in awhile!" I wasn't amused. Then, when I go to take it home, the light came back on. They had the truck 2 more days, and told me they replaced a map sensor. I then drove a couple days to have the light once again come on! Now, they say Chysler told them to run a check on the cylinder heads? Has anyone heard of this type of problem with so few miles? I'm leasing this vehicle, so, so far they have paid for all of this. But isn't there a lemon law or something? What should I do? It doesn't seem like they know what is wrong with it.
  • Which fits with what's happening now. Each time I try to dim, or put my brights on, the windshield washer and wipers come on. The dimmer does not work. If you slap it around a few times, it might work, and stay that way for days. Then the problem re-appears. This vehicle has some serious electrical problems!!!
  • Well, my truck has been in the shop all week. They had to switch out a cylinder head. At 10,000 miles!???? Unbelievable! I'm picking it up today. Well see if it still runs the same after having the engine ripped apart. They say it was a factory defect. I just wonder if anyone else has this problem?
  • Picked up the truck today, but the service dept didn't give me a receipt of what they did to the truck. They gave me a story that their computers where down and they would mail me one. Sound weird? It did run good. But I'm worried because I have no proof that they did anything. They said they replaced a Cylinder Head. I've been reading alot about warrenties and such and alot of them won't cover things without receipts. I keep every one! I'll wait a couple days, and if I don't receive one, I'm calling Chrysler!
  • I just had the same thing happen to me. I am trying to figure out what the problem is. I think I am going to take it to the shop and see what they say about it. I will let you know what they say. If you have any other info. , please let me know

  • read my #47 then #58. Dodge dealer replaced the head on my 1999 Durango. Had it back for about 4 weeks now after replacing the head and it seems to be running fine now. bought it with 32K on it but can see by the previous owners paperwork it started at about 10,000 miles. Out of warrenty when I got it. Now at 8oK and cost me $1400. Runs good now and no check engine light
  • I've had it back for a week now, and no engine light. But it's running really rough when it's cold. Almost to the point of stalling when I brake. I think the idle is off. When it's warm it runs good. Do you think I should bring it back, or wait a bit?
  • My '04 Durango manual says:
    1. Enter your vehicle
    2. Put on your seat beat
    3. Put key in ignition
    4. Key key to ON position - not start
    5. Press and HOLD the UNLOCK button on FOB
    6. After holding the UNLOCK button for 4 seconds, also press the PANIC button within 6 seconds.
    7. When asingle chime is heard release both buttons. The chime in an indication that you have successfully entered program mode. All fobs that are to be programmed must be done so within 60 seconds of when chime was heard.
    8. Using the fob to be programmed, press and release both the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons.
    9. A single chime will be heard.
    10. Within 4 seconds of hearing the chime, press and release the UNLOCK button on the fob.
    11. A single chime will be heard.
    12. Repeat 8-10 for each FOB

    It worked for me just a few minutes ago.
  • I've been driving my Hemi for a couple of weeks now. Still runs rough. On Sunday, yet another light came on. This time its the Electronic Throttle Malfunction. It went back off but who knows! I don't know what else to do. It's been in and out of the dealer's shop, and it hasn't run the same since they took apart the engine. Thank god this is a leased truck, and I can hand them back the keys in 2 more years!
  • I have a 99 dodge durango 4.7 engine. The check engine light came on and we found out that one of the codes was saying "system to lean". another code said power steering pressure out of range. also the o2 sensor slow response. One o2 sensor was replaced and the power steering switch. We had to get a new catalytic converter because the dumping of fuel clogged it. None of this fixed the problem. It continued to dump the fuel. We had it in and out of the shop and finally took it to the dealer. Here is their diagnosis: POWER STEERING SWITCH IS LEAKING FLUID THROUGH ITS TERMINALS, THE OIL HAS WICKED UP THE SIGNAL WIRE TO THE PCM. (UNSURE IF PCM IS CONTAMINATED) THE POWER STEERING SWITCH ALSO SHARES THE SAME GROUND AS THE OXYGEN SENSOR. THIS COULD ALLOW FLUID TO ENTER THE OXYGEN SENSOR THROUGH THE WIRING. THE OXYGEN SENSOR HAS BEEN CONTAMINATED BY OIL FROM POWER STEERING SWITCH THE POWER STEERING & OXYGEN SENSOR NEED TO BE REPLACED.
    AND THE 02 HEATER GROUND WIRE NEEDS TO BE SEPERATED FROM THE POWER STEERING SWITCH GROUND. They do not gaurantee this will fix the problem. Anyone have any similiar problems? If we put another 600 into this and they are not correct are we required to pay them for it?
  • There is a loud noise when locking and unlocking the door locks. It happens everytime. Two of the door locks have to be pulled up manually cause they wont work by the remote or the buttons in the car. Anyone have anything similar?
  • This is my third post of problems with my 1999 durango. My radio went out. It went from working fine to being stuck on a channel to working fine to the volume going down on its own to not working at all. All in one week. The time doesnt even work. There is no lighting at all. With all these mysterious problems i will not buy a dodge, chrysler or plymouth ever again. Anyone have and ideas about the radio/clock?
  • The same problem occurred with my 98' Nissan Pathfinder. Well, almost...I filled the truck while it was running, which triggered the check engine light. It stayed on until the dealer reset it. I would guess you'll have to visit the dealer also.
  • just bought 03 durango oil light comes on sometimes on first start up goes off if i shut off and restart..sounds like oil pressure sending unit to me anybodyelse?
  • I was wondering if anyone has taken out a radio out of a 2003 Durango, if yes how complicated is it? I ask because I am connecting a amp convertor to it. I just need to know how to do so. :confuse: Thank You for your help.
  • Does any one know were I could get a used coolant overflow resevoir for 98 Durango thanks for any help in this matter
  • bigezpbigezp Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 durango slt 5.2 started running rough,got diagnostic and found #1,#2 cylinders missing.replaced plugs,wires,cap and rotor.problem still occurs.sometimes it smooths out after driving for a while but soon as i turn it of and come back to start up problem there a solution to this.thanks
  • How do you find out what size gears a 98 Durango with a 5.2 V8 it does not have a tow hitch
  • 360fan360fan Posts: 1
    deffinatley a problem that all too many durangos have .. the motors are rough on oil. specially when people run cheaper oil through it... the slude is a problem but not a problem that will park the truck for ne time at all.. get a motor flush.. like 40 bucks at any local oilshop. and change your oil every 2000 or 2500 ... i started runnin high milage oil and i only have 40000 miles.. tell me how it goes
  • I have visited many forums and all I hear about is sludge in the durango. I think that anyone with a durango should use a synthetic blend motor oil. It gets pretty pricey if you don't do your own oil changes but that's the price of not having a blown engine on the side of the highway. :)
  • sdholdensdholden Posts: 1
    I was driving down the highway and all of sudden the durange starting running bad and the check engine light came on. We had it scanned and it came up P0201, P0202 and P0208 which is a injector malfunction. We replaced the injectors and had no change. We have replaced the TPS sensor, the Map sensor, the IAC sensor, the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and the PCM, nothing has help. We have tested the injecters and they are firing. It is dumping too much gas into the cylinders, stong gas smell. It has good oil pressure and it was running great until that point. We are at a loss. Can anyone help?
  • When driving down the road the steering wheel has a clicking noise like the steering wheel is loose. I think it might be the steering box? Does anyone have any ideas. :(
  • On my wife's 2002 Durango, on several occasions, the steering column won't unlock so the car can be started. It won't come out of park, we turn the steering wheel, push the car back and no avail....AAA has had to tow it twice....(of course it worked when it got to the dealer, LOL)....

    Any ideeas??

  • On my 2002 Durango 4x4 my front end started creaking when I stop or start moving sounds like a creaking floor in your house,also hear the noise when I turn sharply.Any suggestions what it could be?
  • dmykuladmykula Posts: 2
    I have a '99 Durango that has been really great to me. no real problems ever. All of a sudden when i drive over about 30 miles an hour, I get a much loader sound and some vibration from what sounds like the front end. When I take a turn, the noise is greatly reduced. I thought it might be something with ball bearings....but not sure. Has anybody had this problem? I think its this part
    FRONT HUB and BEARING, Durango, w/Four Wheel ABS, Right + left
  • paulg2paulg2 Posts: 1
    2002 Durango. When I have to make sudden stop and slam on the brake padel, the truck slows down, but then it sort of lets go as if the brake is non-functioning for a second, and then the brake kicks in again, and then lets go... over and over until the truck comes to a stop. I noticed this as a brand new car. Is this Dodge's idea of anti-lock brake system, or is there something wrong with my brakes? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.
  • hey micahael, im having the same problem right now with my durango. i just got it out of the shop today, and 20min later it did the same thing. i had the upper and lower radiator hoses changed, system flushed, and thermostat changed. do u remember what you had done to fix your problem? i'm in need of help!
  • took 99 D 5.9 l to jiffy l. for a tranny flush, two weeks later the 2nd gear is slipping. spoke to jiffy and they claim their aft dexron/mercon with an additive meets and exceeds dodges recomendation dodge TSB 21-006-01 and the dipstick clearly state aft-3 or mopar 7176 to be used. already changed out TPS and tranny speed sensor. any ideas. my mechanic wants to put in a replacement tranny.
  • ceckertceckert Posts: 2
    My '98 has been doing the same thing for years and I have never been able to definitively isolate the cause, however mechanical problems have never surfaced that would be indicative of a noise. My starts at 45mph. I believe the problem is the flimsy plastic skirting under the front end and in the wheel wells vibrating after you attain a certain speed-this may explain why it goes away in a turn- the air flow direction changes as it passes by the skirting. If you live in an area where you blast through snow banks, or even large puddles, I have found this can dislodge the skirting which then makes the noise worse on the highway. Check the skirting and if it is dislodged, try temporarily using "Ty-wraps" to put it back in place and see if that changes the noise.
  • ceckertceckert Posts: 2
    For the last 2-3 years, my '98 will randomly refuse to start--when this happens, it won't turn over at all. It seems like a contact isn't being made in the electrical system somewhere. The problem can occur cold or after it has been driven--there is no pattern. Usually, if I wait a minute or two(sometimes up to 10 minutes), it will start. Tricks to help it start include slipping the shifter into neutral, bouncing up and down in my seat, tilting the steering wheel, etc. The problem is getting worse. Any help/experience would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 2001 durango. Out of the blue it started running extremely rough and backfiring. While keeping it running, the converter turned blistering glowing hot. Talked to the dealership, they said sounded like either clogged muffler system or dumping of fuel. Had a quarter tank of fuel. I let it cool down, tried to start it again. Now I cannot hear the fuel pump turn on and the gas gauge shows completely empty. Put 5 gals of fuel in, and gauge still not registering. Where would the dumping of fuel possibly occur and I wonder what has happened to the pump and gauge.
    Really getting a bit frustrated, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • mitchffmitchff Posts: 1
    I recently installed a trailer hitch on my 2000 Durango. I'm having trouble finding where to access the wiring to wire in the trailer lighting plug.
  • Recently, both of the turn signals on my 2000 Durango stopped working. It will "blink" only 3-4 times before stopping. I changed the fuse in the fuse box but it didn't help. I went to an auto parts store and they said the problem is the "Turn Signal Relay". I showed them the relay from the fuse box but they said it was not correct. The turn signal relay is located under the dash, but I couldn't find it. I went to the dealer's part department and they sold me a relay for $47 that doesn't look like the one in the fuse box! Can anyone provide a solution?
  • Hello I used to have the same problem of trans slippage when I did not use my 2000 Durango for a day or two. It would slip into gear sometimes with a bang and after a few miles it would be okay. Now my problem is that the rpms vary up and down at idle and at speeding up and the rpm drops as the transmission switches and then bang goes the transmission and rear end because of drop in rpms.I have not changed the fluid as you so I don't know if anything is common.
  • j9shemij9shemi Posts: 9
    Here we go again! The HEMI is back in the shop again. Check engine light back on. Coded, 3rd Cylinder misfire again for the 4th time. Now they say they are switching out a fuel injector. Hopefully this will be the solution. I emailed Chysler with my problem, and all they could suggest was to keep going to the dealer. Meanwhile, the truck is in the shop every month! Ridiculous! Isn't there something called a lemon law??????
  • tionnationna Posts: 7
    I bought a a Dodge Durango about 2 weeks ago. The check engine light came on.The car was not pulling with speed when I pressed the gas.But then it started driving fine for a little while then it does it again. I took it to the dealer he said it needed o2 sensors. They put the sensors on and the check engine light is still on and it's still pulling slow at times. They say the sensors still have high voltage. Does anyone know what this can be?
  • fbocafboca Posts: 1
    I had a similar prolem. it was very difficult to solve. I wwould happen in the freway while you were driving at 65 mph and suddenly the engine was off and you did not have any hints except that you had no power steering, brakes , power.... and it would take two or three times to start it after you manage not to be killed in the freeway. The dealer took the car several times and they could not find any problems with it. but the problems continue happening. Finaly the dealer put a computer "Copilot" we had to use it for about three weeks until it did it again, then you have a few seconds to push a buttom so the copilot can copy the info from the car computer. the info was analyzed by the dealer aand they determine that the main computer was bad, after they changed it the problem never happened again, and even thou the car was five + years old I did not have to pay anything. I think that they probably paid for it to avoid the possibility of a recall mandated by the government.
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