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Comments
Yes.
"I have the non-xi SP with the staggered setup, so rotating would be more of a swap."
There's no real benefit for you to do a side-to-side rotation. Just leave'em where they are and replace as necessary.
FWIW, personally I'd be inclined to "unstagger" any staggered BMW just so I could rotate the tires.
Best Regards,
Shipo
That was 2 weeks ago, I have a sheet metal screw in the back tire now....
My girlfriend has an Audi, their service is incredible, I just wish their A4 could compete...
Now I am only incredibly angry and frustrated with the Comfort (non) Access and silly iDrive.
--trapped in a Love/Hate relationship with my car
Lexus is buying my car back from me via the Lemon Law. Until I filed the paperwork, they tried to screw me like a groupie at a Kid Rock concert, and even after they agreed to buy it back they still jerked me around.
Lexus may have given great customer service in the past, but that isn't the case anymore.
Sure, the dealer has treated me pretty well, but Lexus corporate themselves are just like any other car company - they won't do anything until you put a gun to their head.
Wouldn't you be giving up performance by doing that? I have to admit that I don't know how much benefit a staggered setup is, but since my 535 SP will have it, I have to assume that there is some.
Looks promising.
Regards,
OW
Yes and no. Yes, you will give up a bit of bite for those clutch dumping/pedal mashing/tire melting hole shots (something that I never do), however, in return you'll gain the proper neutral handling/oversteer that BMWs have long been famous for. Said another way, gone will be the annoying (but relatively benign) understeer that is most common in nose heavy FWD cars.
Speaking strictly for myself, the benefits of symmetrical tire sizes all the way around are far greater than just gaining the ability to rotate the tires. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
As always, thanks for the info.
What do you find frustrating about Comfort Access? I don't have that option but would consider getting it on a future car, so I am curious.
Dan
document everything and take pixs of all. bmw will buy the car back. dont't let the N.Y. lawyer scare you. just let it be business. don't put miles on the car. bmw is a nice car but different from the [non-permissible content removed] cars. they handle and ride diffrent. if i can help just reply to me.
i am from the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico,and it happenned exactly the same to me,except that the rim nor the wheelwell was damaged,anyway it was a $600.00 US dollar event,including the tow and the cost of new tire, ouch!
What a shame that a car company that epitomizes car engineering excellence can make such a stupid mistake with those Bridgestone tiers and even worse,carry no spare tire nor tools!
I am not recommending BMW to anybody!!
Hopefully one wouldnt get a flat on the highway or in remote areas. But if you do then make sure that your fallback option better work. These run flats are a bogus idea. They really dont solve the problem. You still have to take it to a repair shop. And most likely the ordinary repair shops cannot fix RF which will end up screwing up your travel plans. Besides you cannot drive more than 50 mph with these RFs if you have a flat which is no better than a donut. This is beside these RF being noisy, expensive, rim damage, etc etc. My point is that these RFs dont even solve the purpose that its designed for.
Regards,
OW
For a set of all season tires that are both well recieved in the market and fairly inexpensive, you can go with the Kumho Ecsta ASX (which cost $87 in the 225/45 R17 size from TireRack).
Two other honerable mention tires in between the above two from a cost perspective are the Yokohama ADVAN S.4. and the Yokohama AVID W4S (both in the 225/45 R17 size from TireRack and costing $166 and $107 respectively).
Let us know what you decide upon and how you make out.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Who said I was parroting anything that TireRack had posted?
"They (tire rack) dont do any real comparison testing scientifically."
I have in fact read a fair amount of the tests posted by TireRack (as opposed to the consumer reviews) and their tests are no less scientific than any other test that I've read in CR or any of the auto rags.
"The Kumho tires consistantly rate at the bottom of the tests while the tire rack "over the backyard hedge" opinions the Ecsta as really great."
No one said that Kumhos were the best tires available. All I intended to say was that they are well regarded given their relatively low cost.
"I bought believe it or not the Goodyear Tripletred for one of my older mercedes and they are a fabulous mix of handling and smooth quiet ride. They arent for those of you who love the gokart feeling."
I happen to have those very tires on two of our cars, and while they are quite appropriate for our minivans, I would never dien to put them on one of my BMWs (or a Mercedes for that matter).
Best Regards,
Shipo
By skittering I mean a non 'planted' feeling cruising at speed on less than perfect roads. I made this term up and it is probably the same as tramlining.
Comments in this thread indicate that continentals tramline much less than Turanzas. I certainly hope so since I intend to get them.
Logitudinal rain grooves interact with the tread blocks in a very specific, small scale, mechanical way. It has to do with tread block design and how that interacts with the span of the grooves in the road. Any tire with sloppy tread design can have this problem.
Tramlining has more to do with larger-scale road imperfections such as longitudinal seams (betweeen lanes) and ruts. Internal tire construction plays a bigger part here. Suspension design plays a big part, but wider low-profile tires are most susceptible.
Skittishness relates to straight-line instability over rough pavement such as patches, cracks and lumps. This is typically found in tires that don't "envelop" such imperfections well enough. The tire (and suspension) doesn't conform to the road, so the contact patch gets smaller over localized imperfections, leading to a skittish feeling. Hard sidewall tires, including ulta-high performance and runflat tires, are most vulnerable.
Twitter: @Edmunds_Test
Most of my driving is on California grooved and rough concrete freeways.
. . .or a dipstick.
Yet I'm seriously considering it, albiet with a separate set of GFTs. If I lease, I'll only run the RFTs 5 or 10K, then go to the real tires & put the RFTs back on in time to turn the car in. If I buy the car, I can sell the RFTs on e-bay -- sounds like there's a pretty good market for them.
Good luck.
Thanks
Mike
"How can you consider using GFT as an option because then you have no spare and the car I looked at in the showroom has no room for one under the trunk floor?"
I answered:
"How about a one link answer: http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/conticomfortkit/index.jsp"
You responded:
"I called tirerack about this kit and they said it shouldn't be used on RFT's"
Ummm, yeah, but the point was that you could then mount GFTs on your 3er and still have some flat insurance.
Best Regards,
Shipo
my question is...WOULD THE COMFORTKIT work on RFT's... some say yes...Tirerack says ?? and continental won't answer an e-mail. Anyone with experience? Would love to keep the spare tire in the garage and have just the comforkit in the trunk if it would get me home. How long and how far can u actually run with the comfrtkit having been used to reinflate? Lastly...I got 29000 miles on my last set of the RFTs without a flat. Rotated every 7500 miles.
The only way a runflat would cease to function is if it is shredded, and in that case the Conti kit wouldn't be any help.
But, to answer your question: no. It won't work.
On the Confort Kit, here's what TR says:
The ContiComfortKit combines a powerful, high-volume, 12-volt air compressor, integral pressure gauge and a latex liquid tire sealant packaged in a compact, lightweight unit that's easy to store in the vehicle. (Kit is 9.5"W x 7"H x 3.75"D.) This product's sealant may interfere with the tire pressure monitoring sensors on vehicles with direct TPMS, possibly leading to error prompts and incorrect pressure readings. Use of this product on direct TPMS vehicles could also result in damage to the tire pressure sensor inside the wheel. Please contact your sales specialist at The Tire Rack for more information.
Good Luck.
Regards,
OW
Now at least you have the lesser of 2 evils. I agree the Conti's are much better. I am hearing the new BS EL42's are better and I know unsuspecting customers are taking delivery with those tires.
Regards,
I'm thinking that I disagree with that statement. Given the number of engineering and safety compromises that these tires usually come with, coupled with the very negative backlash that is literally all over the internet, my bet is that manufacturers aren't going to stop making GFTs any time soon. As if to underscore that thought, Honda, which for the last two or three model years has equipped all of their Odyssey Touring minivans with RFTs (using the Michelin PAX system), has suddenly announced a partial about face. Now, for the 2008 model year they are offering standard GFTs as the default tire system with the PAX system as an extra cost option. I already know of several folks who are buying the 2008 wheels and tires (and a spare and jack too) for their 2007 and earlier Odyssey Touring vans, just so that they can dump the RFTs and get back to a better performing and more cost effective wheel and tire assembly.
Needless to say, time will tell on this issue, but it is my fervent hope that BMW takes all of the negativity to heart and redesigns the trunk floor of the E90 and E92 to accept a spare tire and a jack assembly.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Under normal conditions about how long should the OEM tires last?
If they would need to be replaced more than once in 45K miles before the lease return, would it be best to replace them with some longer wearing runflats right away, then put the original tires back on before turning the car in for the lease return?
Storing the OEM tires for 3 years would be kind of a hassle and waste of garage space though.
I'm starting to wonder if the money saved on free BMW maintenance vs paying for the maintenance on some other brands of cars that have long wearing OEM tires would be spent in tire replacement costs on the 328 over 45K miles.
Said another way, you might get by with the factory set for the duration, however, there is a fair likelihood that you will have to buy one set over the course of your lease.
Best Regards,
Shipo
It's probably true that they won't last 45,000 miles, but having to replace the tires twice in 3 years be an excessive cost.
There has to be a lot of tread life left in the tires when you turn the car in, so even if the tires make it to the end of the lease, you will still be charged for new tires if they are too worn.