Dodge Dakota - III

spike50

"In the old days" your single wire fog lights, which by the way emitted yellow light, would need to be mounted to a metal / grounded surface. Although I've ordered fog lights on my Quad, I hadn't gotten into the the wiring schematics but wanted to ask some questions. I live in and around what is now called wetlands. Periodically, fog is a real issue not to mention the deer on those foggy nights.

1. Are the factory units fed by a single wire (hot) wire thereby requiring the light frame to attached to a grounded surface?

2. Do these lights have a replaceable bulb, such as a 9006, etc.?

3. Has anyone used the "gold ion" bulbs to improve upon the factory fog lights by having them actually emit fog penetrating yellow light?

4. Has anyone seen a "real" yellow fog light that can fit in that cavity and run off of the existing wiring?

jones27

I can only answer one of your questions.....the fog lights are fed by two wires. They are mounted in a plastic housing that is then attached to a metal bracket behind the hole knockouts in the bumper. Grounding takes place under the dash...hence why I had the problem in the first place. If you don't get them grounded under the dash, the switch fails to activate.....no lights.

I don't know about replacement bulbs or yellow lights.

96g11

I LOVE MY QUAD! Sorry, just had to get that in. Today I installed a flowmaster muffler p/n 42-543 will fit, just cut off the factory muffler at each end. Add (1) 10 inch 2 1/2 id to 2 1/2 od extension. Took about 45 mins. Total cost $71.30! sounds incredible, not too loud but really throaty. I'll check in later with any observed gas mileage increase. By the way, I took the advise I heard in this forum and bought the factory flares...$255.00 bolt right on in 30 mins. Look fantastic! They come painted body color and fit perfect. Now I can't wait until K&N produces an intake system. One question, has anyone replaced the factory cooling fan with an electric unit? Looks like a tricky install but would like to get rid of the fan roar.

fireflyerr

I was told at a dealer that there is no passenger side airbag cutoff switch available for the Dak Quad. Does anyone know of one, or will a switch from the clubcab work? How about just pulling the fuse? Love the Quad (4.7/auto)

tuckmiddle

I put in the K&N that just fits in the filter box. In Jan, I tried a Durango Air Ram kit, but wasn't quite right and it didn't have the extra nipple required for the Dakota; almost modified it, but decided to wait.
I have the Flowmaster. I went for the duals, so paid a lot more, but you're right, it sounds super.
Neither of the above affected gas mileage a bit, still get 15 per average tank. Mileage readout thing says 17 on hwy for 120 miles, but with intown running, the tank still did 15; the mileage thingy said 14.8. It's a smart little device.
I've got 4,300 miles since Jan 8th and it's been perfect. Of course I would expect it to be, except for the trans writeups on these boards. Mine clunks once in a while, otherwise perfect. I did get extended warranty though!
Be careful out there.

spike50

After talking to Ernie today and confirming that the restriction is due to the 4.7L engines going to Durangos, I went to the Dakota store for that last sanity check before the Quad goes D-1.

1. My sales rep. was kind of surprised by the restriction due to Durangos getting the engines. He said the Durango sales are way down because Ford has been offering significant rebates on the Explorer.

2. Although the Bench seat arm rest is wide and covered with fabric (doesn't burn your bare arm on a hot day like today's 84 degrees), the Bucket has a bit more "butt" room. The center console for the Bucket option looks deep enough to accept a CD changer. Still getting the Buckets.

3. Although I haven't given up yet, I wanted to look at the lug pattern and clearances on the Dak 15x8 and 15x7 wheels / tires vs. the Ram P225/75R16.

4. The Bulb element on the factory "Fog Lights" are not replaceable. The whole unit gets changed upon failure. I'll be looking to make these more useful as either "real" yellow fog lights and/or daytime running lights.

5. Compared colors: Patriot Blue, Intense Blue, two-tone Amber Fire SLT, Light Driftwood, Black, two-tone Dark Garnet Red, White, and the signature Dodge Red. Still want Light Driftwood but wish DC had a two-tone option with lower panel being dark gray, etc.

6. Determined the suggested he auto multi-speed maintenance schedule (every 15K-30K) and costs ($70-$100). Didn't seem unreasonable.

7. Although accessories from the dealer are expensive, general available appears to be same as other sources. In general, things are back ordered or not available "yet" for the Quad.

8. The sales rep commented that customers have remarked that the Tonneau cover added 2-4 mpg on 60 mph trips.

9. Checked out the factory roof racks on the vans and Durangos. The need to haul canoes and kayaks is forcing me to look at a "hybrid" system which uses the DC factory rails and then Thule or Yakima cross bars/brackets. The Dak roof isn't any higher off the ground than a van and the length of the Quad roof provides a better base than the Club or Std cabs.

Lastly, I haven't sold the "old reliable" '92 Dodge Caravan yet. I better get on the stick.

bookitty

When I had my club cap with the A.R.E. lid, I rigged a roof rack on the cab, and supported the rear of a boat (lightweight aluminum) with a post support that fit into the receiver and adjusted up and down. Might help.

Bookitty

mrb9

Spike50, On the front cover of the Dakota Accessories Catalog that I got from DC dealership, there is a red QC sport with a factory roof rack. Inside 1st page is the description for it as follows: 2- Roof Rack (Dakota Quad Cab) " This sturdy, original equipment style rack allows added storage on the roof of your truck. Transports a canoe,kayak,skis,or a bicycle when a Mopar Sports Equipment Carrier is added...........$200.00." There is no part number but should be readily available at dealerships. I also plan to get one so as to carry "fly-rods" fully assembled for those impromptu fishing excursions. Happy Trails. Mrb

andy_jordan

Tonneau covers are generally considered to reduce drag by about 11% - I posted a link some time ago in the gas mileage topic that gives details - I'll try and find it.

As a variation on roof racks, many of the fiberglass tonneau manufacturers, including (I believe) A.R.E. offer kits for the top of the tonneau for hauling bikes and the like.

bigal31

I don't know about the benefit of tonneau covers. Sounds tiny at best(specially)on a 5' box. 1-2 mpg no way,I just can't believe it. My advice leave the tailgate down,when you can.That is if you bye into "better gas mileage".My 2 cents.
Allen

andy_jordan

OK here is the link - incidentally it also talks about tailgate down / off. Allen probably makes a point that any effect will be reduced with a quad.

http://mars.acnet.wnec.edu/~ehaffner/did.htm

tpmiller1

Is in pickups conference, topic 207, post #383.
Too bad one can't track posts by an individual.
Andy-also noted a post from you regarding cold weather starts, that turning on the lights before starting, for 10-15 seconds favorably impacts the battery and start-up harshness (turn the lights back off before turning ignition) very interesting.

andy_jordan

and will remain at your service :-)

themacguy

I've noticed here in (at least lately) windy W. TX that when on the freeway bucking head/cross winds of 30- 45 mph, the quad feels MUCH more stable with the tail gate down. I have an extender so I don't worry about anything falling out, and I have noticed that as these winds continue, I pretty much leave the thing down. The only times I put the gate up are when in town for groceries, etc. in parking lots and when on caliche roads - other field people have indicated to me that the tail gate gets chipped if run over higher speeds in the dirt. Gas mileage? Yeah, maybe 1 mpg on the freeway average in smooth conditions. But on the really windy days I'm too busy 'filling the tank' anyway...

spike50

Thanks for the feedback. To me it seems that if the Tonneau provides a 1-2 mpg improvement this would offset the 9% hit I'll take by getting the Multi-speed Auto. Prior to going D-1, why have so many of the contributors to these forums really gone with the 5 speed manual - FUN or FEAR ???

Although I haven't checked with the Pennsylvania State Police, I've been told that having the tailgate down as Std. Operating Procedure is a problem in PA. It would seem that a car pulling up behind you might not notice it and get too close causing damage. Anyway, doesn't the tailgate flap up and down going over bumps not being locked in place? Can't be a good thing.

spike50

I keep looking and have seen the type that have post with a cross member that fits into a trailer hitch receiver. At this point I don't have a trailer hitch. Also checked out the MOPAR Accessories catalog to see the Qaud rack on the front cover. The MOPAR rack looks like a good start but need cross members that can accommodate two canoes (17 foot long x 38" wide) side-by-side. This usually is about 7-8 foot and allows you to have room for tie-downs and some free-board. I'll have to find out what MOPAR means by "Water Sports" attachment. I don't have a good feeling that they had me in mind when designing whatever it is.

myersed

I am also looking for options to carry my canoe. Local trimshop informed me of Yakima- supposed top of the line rack system. If you log on, you can confiure the system, at the site, to meet your needs. Kinda like building an Erector set. Either way, you still need to restrain the canoes front and rear because the racks can not manage the load if it is allowed to sway up and down.

I think this option has promise and I like the fact that it can be removed and possibly used with other vehicles. Only problem I see is that we do not have much of a roofline lip above the door rubber. 5/16 to 3/8". It may be adequate for the design but just an observation.

Site is http://www.yakima.com/
by the way, how do folks make the site turn blue so it can be launched from here??

Also- I like the idea of a rear stabilizer via a unit that mounts into the hitch. I have considered having that made once I got the roof reack issue resolved. Who sells the unit you described?
Ed

bookitty

When you type in a web site address preceded by the three w's, it recognizes it as a URL and creates a link. Next time you type one in, go to the spellcheck. After it checks spelling, it appears in blue.

Bookitty

spike50

Last things first. Web addresses are recognized by the bulletin board software. I guess if it starts out with www.it_will_print.com anything. The proceeding was a test.

Roof racks: I was looking at the Thule catalog and they have a way to use the two MOPAR factory roof rails and then clip their bars and attachments to them. This has some appeal to me because the Aero-Foot pillars hook into the door frame and appear to crush the door seals while installed. I have to look at the more but if that is in fact what happens, I'd think the door would start leaking because of rips and tears.

I saw the trailer hitch attachment at www.canoegear.com with a lot of other gear.

ozark

Looking at the roof rack for the Quad in the truck stuff catalog leaves me a little cold. Does this thing look better in person? I too would be interested but I would like something that compliments the design of the truck. Far be it from me to challenge the Daimler Chrysler think tank but I want something else. The Nissan Frontier Crew (I know the truck is too small and underpowered, too) Roof Rack looks like it goes with the truck. If DC can design a truck as cool as the Dakota Quad surely they can design a decent looking roof rack. When I put the Flat Black tubular side bars on my Dakota I want a rack that matches!
For those of you that are interested in seeing some links to tonneau cover manufacturers and their rack solutions I recommend WWW.gosscampers.com. Their web site has links to Leer, ARE, Snuglid, etc.

balser

Check out a Can-Back at www.can-back.com. It's a soft cap with roll up sides. The frame and the cover have provisions for roof racks. The downside: the frame screws to the bed rail, so you can't swap it out for a tonneau as needed. I suggested this option to the manufacturer. They said they were working on it, but from an engineering and marketing standpoint, they cater to the off-road set, so structural rigidity is more important. They also said they thought Thules would fit, but had only actually tested Yakimas.

balser

You'll have to check with Can_Back on availability. When I first ordered my Quad back in November, they said they would be working on one to fit. But I haven't checked back with them since.

mrb9

I have been trying to find info on these guys since I say them in a magazine on a truck, Great idea without the permanance of a hard canopy. Green truck w/tan top looks great, I will order one of these, Thanks for the site-cite. Mrb9

balser

If you're looking for links to aftermarket manufacturers, check out www.sema.org. They've got links to just about every accessory and performance manufacturer under the sun. That's how I found the Can-Back link.

bpeebles

DC has taken the Dakota to new heights in the design/build of them in Brazil. Too bad the 2.5L Turbodiesel engine is not availalbe here in the US. Ill bet these babys get over 30 MPG. (Price of gas is giving me flashbacks to the 70s... sorry)

http://www.autointell.com/chrysler7.htm

96g11

Hay Wilmar,
Check this out, I installed a k&n air filter in the stock housing and noticed all the webbing, both in the top and bottom of the housing. Talked to a structural materials engineer friend of mine and he saw no structural need for the webbing. I then used duckbill pliars to break out the webbing and a die grinder to sand the housing smooth inside, both top and bottom. Checked it on a flow bench with 22% increase in airflow. I then routed 4" aluminum tubing from the passenger side grill area to the air box intake. 2.5 psi boost as measured at the pvc port at 70mph. mileage boost of 15.8 to 18.2. measurable performance gain in passing and on highway feel. Yes I know I will have to clean the filter more often (each oil change) but I feel it will be quite worhth it!!

bigal31

That sounds great ,want to do mine?
Allen

marsha7

to be an obviously dumb question, but here goes. A Dodge Dakota, extended cab, 3.9L V6, weighs around 3500-3600 pounds, has around 200 HP, reasonable amount of torque, and gets 15 city, maybe 19-20 highway. My new Intrepid weighs between 3500-3600 pounds, 3.2L V6, 225 HP, gets around 22 city, 25-27 highway. I realize that the Intrepid is more aerodynamic than the Dakota, but the same weight vehicle gets almost 50% better gas mileage, much more than aerodynamics would imply. Why not just drop the Intrepid engine in the Dakota? Even if it only got 19 city, 23 highway, why not do it? Further info: even a small Ford Ranger or GM S-10 gets poor mileage, yet vehicle weights are less than Intrepid.

Any thoughts on this?

spike50

I'm probably not saying anything new here but cars and trucks are designed for different jobs. Cars move people and their luggage and trucks hauled stuff and until recent history trucks only had room for the driver and another person. Cargo was the name of the game.

The whole truck design from the engine, gearing, frame strength, axle diameters, tire ratings is there to move a half ton, three quarter ton, etc. of cargo plus the truck with speed and safety. Only recently has the truck become something of intense desire and adornment with all those things we got used to in our cars. I don't doubt that the majority of trucks are still used as trucks but the numbers of people that only haul occasionally if at all are on the increase. I must admit mine will see limited hauling.

So what we have are people using trucks for basic transportation and not for hauling a half ton of tools, products, etc. and becoming very concerned about the mileage. Everything about a truck works against its getting car-like gas mileage.

You see, changing the motor only addresses one aspect of the whole design. What I think is great is the spirit and inventiveness in people who are trying to improve the Dakota's gas mileage by getting into air filter housing or the exhaust system. This will provide results that all owners could benefit from.

bigal31

One main reason for the better car gas mileage.Simple, Bigger tires on the trucks..put them skinny car tires on the trucks you would be amazed.It takes a lot of engine to push 31" meats.
Allen

spike50

Where's participant 1174? I think I'll be going to D-1 this coming week. Tried to contact you via e-mail but no reply. I'm still thinking about swapping out the five brand new 15x8 w/ tires for 16" wheels and higher profile tires. If you or anybody else in "virtual reality land" are interested, let me know. I'll get serious about a price.

spike50

Has anybody taken out an ext. warranty on their Dakota?

Has anyone taken out a ext. warranty from a third party provider as discussed in another part of the Edmunds website under "CarBuying Tips.com"?

Although it might be too early to tell, has anyone had good / bad experiences with either the dealer offered or the third party warranty's coverage and "ease of use"?

Any thoughts on any of the above?

blasmir

I have a 99 Dakota with the 255/65R15 tires. I've been inflating these tires to 35 psi like the door label says. However, I just noticed that the label says these numbers are for the 215/75R15 tires. Kinda makes me wonder if the speedo and odo are programmed for the bigger tires... But my question is, is 35 psi the correct pressure for these bigger tires? Higher? Lower? Thanks for your help.

tuckmiddle

I haven't had to use it, with only 4500 ,miles, but I went for the Warranty Gold guys that are in Edmunds. Friendly, immediately refunded the correct amount from my last GMC, that was never used either.
The only one I used a lot, and I mean a lot, was on my wife's Sterling 5-10 years ago. I have to admit I can't remember the name, but they paid thousands for the aircond and cooling system every spring for 6 years. It was an Accura chassis and drive train, shipped to England and Rover did the body and accessories. Drive train was magnificient, but the Rover guys were on drugs when they designed the above systems. Had something like 14 selenoids in the Air Cond system. Car was in two pieces after the Dodge Ram attacked it on the left front, otherwise she'd probably still be driving it.
There are many choices, but the Warranty Gold guys have a zero deductible for almost nothing over their next lowest plan. It was expensive, I thought, for $1,300, my wife's plan for the Honda CRV was $700; of course, those bad boys hardly ever break! There's no telling how expensive one of those automatics with multi-speed will cost to replace or repair after 36,000 miles.
Be careful out there.

spike50

First I'd make sure that you're safe. Determine if the tires you have on now or will purchase are the right size and weight range for your truck and the way you use it. Then you ought to be looking at the sidewall of your tires for the right pressure.

After you're operating in the "safety zone", then worry about the speedometer / odometer. I can almost guarantee you that it will be off by some amount. If you stay within a reasonable range of circumference (the distance the tire travels per revolution) from the OEM tires, the speedometer will be OK. To get real accurate, you can calculate it all on paper or go out to a highway where they have a three mile stretch measured out in one mile increments. Hold it 60 mph and have a stop watch going. If you're right on you should be going a mile a minute.

Just think, if your speedometer is reading one mph too low, when you want to sell it you'll be able to say "It only has 98,333 miles" but in the back of your mind you'll know its really 100,000.

spike50

Last Friday I bailed on the multi-speed and fog lights. Couldn't sleep right anymore. Except for the '92 Dodge Caravan I'll be selling for the Dak, I've kept my cars for 13 yrs until the safest thing to do is donate them for a tax deduction. Couldn't stand lying to someone about their soundness. I want to keep the Dak for 15 yrs and I couldn't see that future with the multi-speed. And the 5 speed manual won't have to "learn" how I drive.

The "fake" fog lights bugged me too. I'll use the $120 to get the real yellow fog lights that I can use in the foggy bayous of Pennsylvania. Also, I'll put them on a switch that allows me to have them on any time I want, not just on low beams.

bigal31

All I can tell you as that I use 35 psi in my 31" tires. So you may want to make sure your not over inflating. Although if 35 psi is good enough for the 225 ,well sounds like your right in the middle(Mine being 35 psi too)with 255's.
Let us know. Allen

henne

here are the basics:
i have a 2000 dakota quad, 4.7, auto, 4x2, 3.92 rear, towing package and just basically loaded.
i traveled from the mississippi gulf coast to just 40 miles east of kansas city missouri which was 850 miles one way. i ran 70 mph the whole trip out of overdrive, and the rpm was 3500rpm. i pulled a 1200lb 6x12 uhaul trailer up there empty, and i averaged 10mpg, the return trip was with an additional 1000lbs in the trailer and still averaged 10mpg, i dont think the weight really matters to the truck, i think it is more the wind drag, my boat is more aerodynamic and it weighs 4900lbs and i average about 10 mpg with it also, i think once you lock out that overdrive its just gonna hang in the 10mpg range if your rpm's are in the 3500rpm range.

well i hope this helps any body thats interested in trips and towing.

robert

p.s. i know someone will ask why i didnt just rent a trailer in missouri, well it costs 125.00 to rent local for 4 days, it costs 250.00 to rent one way, so i figured in estimated fuel costs and i decided it would be cheaper to pull it with me than rent it there.

andy_jordan

Not sure anyone really addressed this fully, so here goes.

The amount of gas used depends on the engine rpm. The rpm of the engine depends on a number of factors - what gear you are in and what speed you drive being obvious ones. However if you drive the car and the truck at the same speed - even if the gearbox was the same you wouldn't get the same economy.

You noted that aerodynamics play a part as does tire friction - the tires on trucks tend to be wider than cars, not just taller. The rear end ratio also tends to be smaller (larger number) in a truck than in a car - that is the number of times that the drive shaft has to go around for every one axle rotation.

So without getting into all of the calculations the economy depends on speed, gear ratio, rear end ratio, tire height, tire width, aerodynamics etc. There are many other factors, but that would be overkill.

Hope this helps.

bookitty

Spoke with Ernie at D/C this morning, and he traced my truck to the rail head in Twin Oaks, PA. At least it is now in the proper (for me) state, and awaiting truck transport to the dealership. I'm getting very excited now. Hope all of the other "quad-waiters" on the forum receive good news as well.

Bookitty

bja4

I just sold my 92 Dakota 4x4 that had a 5.2L, 3.92, auto, 235/75R15 tires, and loaded. This truck would get 16-17 mpg. with a 1400 pound Northstar camper on it at 70 mph. The truck got the same mileage when empty. The only time I ever took the truck out of overdrive was when it would down-shift on it's own going up a hill/pass. Once you had reached the top of the hill, you put the truck back into overdrive. The worst gas mileage I ever got was traveling through Wyoming in 30-40 mph head winds. I never had the truck in overdrive, and I still could get no worse than 13 mpg. at 70 mph. I would think someone could tow a 2000 pound trailer in overdrive with no problems. The guy that bought my truck, tows a race car on a trailer that weights 2200 pounds. He says it tows great in overdrive. 10 mpg. sucks for a new truck. I sure hope this new club cab I'm getting in two weeks can match what my old truck could do.

mailman54

Matt, I have the same tire on my 00 Dakota. Checked the manual and tire information that came along with the tire and it says 35 pounds. Every tire I have had so far with Dakotas (91 and 00) have recommended 35 lbs of pressure. Hope this helps.

Jim

blasmir

I think I'll leave it at 35 psi for now. I checked a Dakota owners website and most everyone there uses 35 psi as well. Of course, if gas ever hits 2 bucks a gallon here, I'll try every fuel economy trick in the book.

bookitty

Gasoline is selling in NYC for $2.13/9 today. For the future price of gasoline and other fossil based fuel, consult themacguy. He lives and dies by this factor. He has posted some very interesting facts about this particular subject, and the factors that drive the market. It is more complicated than one thinks.

Bookitty

willywill

Hello,,I have a 2000 daktoa club cab and iam wondering if anyone has nurf bars on theirsand what brand. Also what type of bedliner is a good choice. And last head light covers and company makes a good one
Thanks

tinyivan

I saw a post in one of the Frozen Dakota Topics regarding Infinity stereos. It said something to the effect that there was a sound difference between the Infinity CD-AM/FM Stereo and the CD/Cassette/AM/FM Stereo. I don't see how this is possible since the specs on the watts and number of speakers are the same. Does anyone have any experience with this, comparing the two systems?

Also, I keep hearing people rave about the steering wheel radio controls, where are these loacted? It seems to me that with the middle of the steering column already taken up by the cruise control, there would be no convenient location for the radio controls to go. Anyway thanks in advance for the info!

--TI

gsx750f

tinyivan, The sw controls are mounted on the back side of the wheel behind the cruise control. They are well worth the money since the Dakota dash is flat across and its a long reach to the radio. Its the one thing my wife likes about my truck. besides getting to sit in the front now that theres room for a childs seat in the rear.

mpg update: 4.7L/3.55/4x4 no lsd. 16.5mpg mostly highway. Saw a 1 mpg improvement when I hit 3k miles. Idle speed now at 550 rpm. I think I'll try altering the air box next, remove ribs. I switched to castrol synthetic 10w-30 on second oil change @4k miles. Believe it or not K-Mart has the best price @18.00 foe a 5 quart container. .80 a quart cheaper than AutoZone.

I plan on adding a bed cover real soon. I'm leaning towards the Fold-A-Cover. It weighs 50lbs. less than the fiberglass cover form A.R.E.
Plus it will give me alot easier access to the whole bed. The bed liner is till in the appropriation committee, $300 vs $175.

Does anybody have any thoughts about the Fold-A-Cover or bed liner? I don't plan on hauling anything more than the occasional load of mulch and plants. However I want a cover that can be locked while also securing the tailgate.

I think that's it for now my finger is tired.

Thanks, Scott

bigal31

You have seemed to ask the 64 K Question. Its a tuff call on new truck accessories. See that's the thing, there so new no one has much of anything yet! I have a 2000 Quad 4x4.I just sucked it up and went through my dealer. The parts guy gave me a "reasonable" price for my bed rails $50.00 off, From $180.00.Also $225.00 for my bed liner down from $250.00..The nerfs,I'll be looking into them my self, soon.As of NOW get in good with the parts dept. Thats what I did. From the dealers(Dodge)you know it's good Quality.
If you can wait there will be better deals elseware. I just can't seem to wait..How about you?
Allen

spike50

Called the dealer today to get an idea on price to charge for the 15x8 wheels. $385 ea. Put a $100 tire on it plus balancing, stem, etc. times the five (5) on the truck = Gold Mine.

bpeebles

I have noticed several people mention that if the outer diameter of the tires is changed from original, the speedometer will be incorrect. This is true.

HOWEVER:
I also want to interject that the shop manual has SPECIFIC WARNINGS about deviating from the original tire outer diameter. If the onboard computer is not reprogrammed, the ABS system, shifting pattern and other things will become out of spec.

In other words, the outer tire diameter is actually programmed into the onboard computer. The days of changing tires wille-nille are gone folks. I do not want MY brakes to fail and have DC blame my selection of tires!!