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Comments
BTW, themacguy, how is the quad handling with all that rain?
KnK
Allen
This truck seems a lot bigger than my previous 92 Dakota. It is some what of a tight fit in a 20'x 20' garage (only one foot to spare). Visibility out out the front window is not as good as past truck (wind-shield not as tall). The new truck is much quieter on the road, even with the larger 31" tires. The ride is about the same, given the new truck has the 1800# load package. The bigger the bumps the better. Drainage bumps don't even phase this truck. This new truck is NOT as fast as old 318. Of course this new one is hauling more weight, larger tires, and no automatic. I think the automatic is faster, unless you power shift (not a good thing). This new truck should haul heavy loads a lot better.
I didn't think I was going to like the new light switch, but after using it I like it better than the old. The inside/outside air selection lever is gone on the new truck. I really miss this feature. The locking glove box is gone (only used this a couple of times anyway). Can't defrost the windows without runing the air conditioner. On my 98 Toyota Corolla there is still a choice to defrost the windows without using ac. There seems to be a lot more plastic built into this new interior. The front differential looks bigger and better. The steering is very nice with the rack-in-pinion vrs. the old power steering box. The sheet medal seems thinner. The engine compartment seems a lot more cluttered (wires everywhere compared to old truck). This trucks shifts easier than my Toyota Corolla. The truck doesn't heat up as fast as my old Dakota, but works good. My old truck worked to well - always turning the heat off or down. To cold to try the ac (Colorado). The ac in the old truck worked very well, even after 8 years without a recharge.
I suppose I will grow to like this truck more and more in time. One thing is for sure, it looks a hell of a lot better than the old. **I did notice the box if off about 3/8" to the cab.** Father-in law (straitens frames for a living) says they are all that way. Not only Dodge, but Ford and Chevy as well. I wounder if it's even worth having the dealer fix??
This is combined rual driving mainly short 5 mile
trips to work. For the the past 15 yrs I have drove a 1986 Nissan truck with a 2.4 engine. The
3.9 has plenty of power a lot more than I am used
to. You might need the 4.7 for towing heavy loads
or hot-roding your truck but otherwise the 3.9L is
just fine. I just have 2,000 miles on the truck I
hope the mileage will improve a little more. I love the way the truck handles and the ride is real smooth! No problems with the truck so far.
Amazing isn't it.
Anyway here are some thoughts.
The parking brake is a mechanical device that is designed to lock the wheels (rear only I think). If it was engaged you would know it because when you drove off the truck would feel extremely sluggish - it's like trying to accelerate with your left foot planted on the brake pedal.
The parking brake is operated by a cable which can stretch and often requires adjusting, so this may be what has happened here. However it is also possible that the cable has snapped entirely, whichever is the case I would get it checked out straightaway.
In the meantime make sure that you leave the truck in gear just in case.
Anyway, I'll probably wait til after the warranty is up to add a chip, not so much because I'm afraid they wont honor the warranty in case of problems, but more because by that time, I'll probably need a little something extra to keep the honeymoon going with the truck, if you know what I mean. Besides, right now I don't want to spend that extra money for 93 octane.
I made a performance modification to the stock air box, removed the excess plastic inside both top and bottom and used a die grinder to smooth the inside of the box. Then fashioned a crude but functional cold air intake from 4" dryer hose (I will make it from flexible aluminum tubing soon) Routed from the front passenger grill area, around the passenger headlight and under the frame rail. Works wonders on the highway. With a K&N air filter and flowmaster muffler, 21 mpg at 65 mph. only 500 miles on the truck so I expect it to improve. 3.91 gear, auto 4.7 engine.
Thanks!
Just be careful about getting air into the system if you are going to change - the t-stat without draining the fluid - you know the routine.
Car and driver magazine buyer's guide stated the 2000 Dakota was the best riding/driving vehicle in it's class. The Toyota may be built a little better, you will pay a hell of a lot more money for a truck with fewer options. Plus their V8 only comes with the automatic. Ground clearance doesn't matter to me. I don't plan on taking a $20k plus vehicle in no-mans-land. I will use an ATV or a beat-up CJ5 for this. I can still get my truck with camper on it through a 7' garage door. This can't be done on any other make of truck with 31.5" tires.
I would recommend the 4.7 V8 to those planning on buying or ordering a new truck. The engine is so smooth and quiet. The axle ratio is a toss-up. I had 3.92 in the old Dakota and got 16-17 mpg. I have a the 3.92 in the new one. My Dakota will usually have the 1400 pound camper on it. There is probably slight fuel advantage to the 3.55, but it is small.
Make sure you check the bed alignment before you leave the lot. My was off 1/2" to the cab. Dealer will have this fixed under warranty this next Tuesday.
96gll, I hope you have better luck than me with your 2w drive.
Allen (frustrated)
If you mean engine-cooling performance...be careful! The 4.7L has a totally-different cooling design than past mopar V8s.(And most others too) The 4.7L uses a 'bypass' system that constantly allows at least 50% of the coolant flow to bypass the radiator and just flow back into the engine. The thermostat is mounted in the BOTTOM of the engine and constantly controls the temp. of the coolant ENTERING the engine by mixing the proper proportion of 'radiator-cooled liquid' with the 'bypass liquid'.
Another word of caution... the on-board computer runs diagnostics on the various systems of the vehicle. Many of these diagnostics are directly based on a specific engine temperature, how fast it is reached and its effect on the exhaust-gas oxygen content. I can get some info from the service manual on these specific temperatures if you are interested.
What I mean by performance is fuel mileage and power. Yes I know much about the computer function on the obd III systems. I just don't know what tolerance mean engine temp the Dakota system will accept. I guess when hypertech or some other manufacturer comes out with a new "chip" I will see if they recommend thermostat change. My home made pressurized cool air intake system really works! I am just one of those car guys that cannot leave anything alone. Everything the manufacturer does is usually a compromise, so I like to make things fit me better. Next on the list is to extend the seat belt buckle end higher. With the center section down it is difficult to fasten and release. By the way I am a police officer and wearing a gun belt (sam brown rig) really makes it difficult!
I really like the idea of the cold-air intake from the passenger-side of the radiator to the the air-filter box.
I thought of this the first time I opened my hood. The filter-box almost looked DESIGNED for this upgrade. I also thought of just going thru a K&N directly to the throttle-body. (bypassing both the airfilter box and the other goofy box on the engine) It serves NO purpose except to muffle the intake sounds. (Just as the 'ribs' in the filter-box did before you nipped them off.)
We all know that anything that muffles must reduce power/MPG ;-)
BTW
I can relate to your delema of the seatbelt buckle being too low when the center console is 'deployed'. All winter while wearing a bulky coat with thick gloves in the pockets I struggled with that &*&%$$% seatbelt buckle.
Porsche took a really neat approach back in the early 'S' days (circa 1973) by using a 'pulsed wave' air tube + a higher fuel rate & higher comp. ratio to sort of supercharge that engine with spectacular results. Enhanced fuel flow, combined with the accelerated pulsing or ram air effect (induction), really made these engines special. I'm working an a similar project with my 4.7 Quad, as other processes I've used (and spent over $1k on to date) have yielded little in mileage increases for my truck. If I'm right, some increase in power will be noticed; and if I'm not, I should at least yield a good 10% to 20% mpg increase in the truck with what will turn out to be a few hundred bucks of modification. I'll post.
REMEMBER, the factory computer has its limits. Even if someone (Jet or whoever) makes a mileage chip, it will still probably hurt the performance characteristics somewhere else. My goal is to 'skew' the results towards mileage without hurting basic performance. Ain't nuthin easy these days.
I'm looking to find out if people bought their bedliners through the dealer, and if so, what they paid for the liner & installation. I've looked back and seen prices in the $250 range??? The finance guy tried to sell me one, but he said $340 , which -
a) seemed high
b) I didn't think I needed
Well, I've changed my mind on point b, but I think I'm still right on point a.
Any info would be appreciated.
Kevin
Dodge brands all of its accessories as Mopar but does not produce any itself. Without exception Mopar are rebranded third party merchandise. In the case of your drop in bedliner you are actually looking at something called a Pendaliner made, not surprisingly, by Penda. The only difference is that the front of the Mopar liner says Dodge, the front of the Penda one says Custom.
Not sure on US pricing but $250 sounds about right, maybe even a little high.
Carl
If you live near a penda dealer they are a little cheaper,but if you don't the shipping will kill you.So go make some new friends at the dealership,it can't hurt.Hope this helps..
Allen
Check back next week.
Any waiter get a different story?
Called the dealer and I guess through experience he had seen the problem coming. He had already reordered for me last week. Have a new VON with all of the same equip and the 5 sp.
So close but still far away.
robert
My neighbor is buying an Extang cover. Anybody had any luck or knowledge of these? Any other recommendations?
Thanks,
KnK
My findings: 55 of 60 were shifted to the right - meaning that the right was sticking out further than the left. Of the five that weren't, all five had the standard wheels (like mine when I first got it). Mine is 'even.' There was a mixed bag as far as anti-slip rears or not. It didn't matter. ALL of the 8" (vs. 7" like mine) were sticking out further on the right than the left - but vary in the amount of 'stick out' from 3/8" to 1 1/4".
Then, on a whim while leaving the lot - it was 90 degrees and I was in jeans - I decided to spot check all of the regular cab Dakotas, the Super cab Dakotas, the Regular Dodge Rams and a few of the Durangos.
My findings: the 8" wheeled Dakotas (every one on two different lots) had the problem. NEITHER the std. equipped (7" wheels), NOR the R/T's (w/ 17" wheels) had the problem. The regular Dodge Rams were all perfect. Now the interesting part. All of the Durangos with 8" wheels are off. BUT, not always to the right. Some were to the LEFT!? And the regular 7" wheeled ones were OK. The wheel flare equipped models didn't make any difference.
The front wheels of all of these vehicles is too difficult to check easily, and I imagine the security camera(s) film loads of me are on the way to the 'car cops' even as we speak...
I'm amazed that you weren't approached by anyone at these dealerships to try and sell you something or at least ask what in the world you're doing.
Don't stop now. You got to go on to the ford, chevy and toy lots. I see "60 minutes" feature story in your future.
I went out and checked my club cab as I have the larger wheels and I don't have any problems - maybe I have been lucky, maybe I have been doing enough fast cornering to put it back in line :-)
This seems like it'd be obvious, especially when we're talking a whole inch or more!
Good Crooked
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Is this a basic idea of whats going on (exaggerated for sure) or is it more like this? (ie. is it on at an angle or is it on straight but offset by a half inch to the side?)
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I should take delivery in a few weeks and I want to make sure I know what to look for! Thanks.
Do any of you have a Leer tonneau cover? Mine newly installed lid leaked around the lock area after the last big storm we had. Also appeared to have some leakage near the cab. I am calling the dealer, and if I have to Leer, but I was wondering if any of you have had this problem. I will see how both the local dealer and Leer handle this and I will keep you posted. I love the looks of the Leer tonneau but at this point I would not recommend buying one.
Now I have about 1600 miles on the truck and with the 4.7 4x4 5spd 3.55 am getting 17mpg. I have not checked mileage since the addition of the tonneau.
Still love the truck.
This forum provided a wealth of information, and I appreciated everyone's help and opinion, even when we disagreed.
Hope all of you have good luck with your Dakotas.
bobe - I hid the response because of the length - just trying to go by edmund's requests.
balser - good luck, and I hope you don't see one you like when you drive by a lot. If I can help in ANY way; either here on the Texas lots or thru my dealer to help locate one for you --RIGHT NOWWW!-- don't hesitate to ask, even if it's just to complain LOUDLY. And we're (very) sorry to lose you in the topics. Bookitty, you and others have to be sick of this - we are. There are so MANY on the lots in TX that this should NOT be happening.
balser - I'll turn over every stone within 500 miles of this place to help you find one that suits you - at my expense. And I'm NOT kidding.