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but a sedan is more likely to have a a latch. The latch is in case of an emergency...
Heres the setting:
Its a dark and stormy night ( :P sorry couldn't resist the cliche ) and you're walking to your car. A car jacker creeps behind you (usually dressed like so :shades: and have on a big over coat and brown hat). You open you door and sit. He taps on your door with a gun and points it at your head ( :surprise: i know graphic but it can happen. Ever watch court tv?)and forces you out and into the trunk/hatch. While he is driving your car, you can pull the latch and escape silently, or you have to choices:
1. Let the seat down and crawl into the car and escape out of the door and risk being shot or worse
2. Go down with the car if he drives it into a lake.
Now do you see the importance of it? Always think ahead. They even have it on my moms 02 miata and i doubt you'll fit back there but judging by the days we live in now, you never know. My dad has a saying for that: Its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. :shades:
Yes, a sedan has a latch release in the trunk for escape incase your forced in it. All sedans have them, it has been mandatory for the last few years (91 is too old)
With your wagon, it's kind of hard to get trapped in the back, just crawl over the seat and use one of the doors.
There is a greater chance of a child crawling around in the back of the moving wagon (sure they are suppose to be in a seat, but too many times the parents don't seem to care) and I can see the child pulling the door latch and falling out the back.
What I meant by a sedan not being any safer, if you drove both your wagon and a sedan into a lake, with either car, your going to need to exit out one of the doors. Nobody will be able to remember to shift the sedan into park so the key can be removed, remove the ignition key, crawl over the seats to get to the back, unlock the back seat release, fold the seat down (get the panicking passengers to get out of the way) and crawl into the trunk, find the trunk release in the dark and escape out the back.
I have a 1993 Honda Accord EX, 4dr Sedan. The ABS light is on with a code of 1/2. I need a multimeter to complete the diag. Is there anywhere I can borrow one? Also, there is the most annoying squeak that happens during every rotation and now there is a dry scrapping sound when I press the brakes. What is this? :confuse:
First I must say that this is a very good forum for auto repair. I just found this forum and have actually read just about every post (i thought it had 26 pages earlier). I have had a 91 Accord DX (M/T) for about 2 years with no "real" problems. Here are some of my problems that i am beginning to look at though:
1. I had a problem with the car not starting when it got warm. Once it cooled down it would start. I have read from earlier posts that it is most likely the Main Relay. I have not had a problem with it this summer, and trust me it is hot here in the southern Texas Gulf coast. Once it starts to give me problems, the main relay will be my first repair.
2. Whenever I turn under power, I notice a clicking sound coming from the front of the car. The sound seems to be suspension related, but since it only happens under power, I am not sure. I thought that it might be something with the valves and did notice a low oil level, but since has still been a problem. Don't know if it is transmission related or what. Can be quite loud at times.
3. My AC/Heating head unit (?) does not work properly. It will not allow me to select the location of the air flow in the interior (only def/feet). I have noticed salvaged units on ebay and the such, but not one that looks like mine (no buttons other than the AC button). Are these interchangeable or do I need to keep looking for an exact copy.
4. I have also looked for assorted interior repair pieces, mainly door handles, but to no avail. I have manual locks and every door handle I see is for power locks. Anyone know of a good company to contact for good interior pieces?
Once again, this forum is awesome and I hope someone can help me out. Thanks in advanced.
3. My AC/Heating head unit (?) does not work properly. It will not allow me to select the location of the air flow in the interior (only def/feet). I have noticed salvaged units on ebay and the such, but not one that looks like mine (no buttons other than the AC button). Are these interchangeable or do I need to keep looking for an exact copy.
Your DX Accord came with a different ventilation control module than uplevel LX and EX Accords did back then.
1. I had a problem with the car not starting when it got warm. Once it cooled down it would start. I have read from earlier posts that it is most likely the Main Relay. I have not had a problem with it this summer, and trust me it is hot here in the southern Texas Gulf coast. Once it starts to give me problems, the main relay will be my first repair.
I agree, check the main relay.
2. Whenever I turn under power, I notice a clicking sound coming from the front of the car. The sound seems to be suspension related, but since it only happens under power, I am not sure. I thought that it might be something with the valves and did notice a low oil level, but since has still been a problem. Don't know if it is transmission related or what. Can be quite loud at times.
Sounds like a bad CV. If it happens anytime you go over a bump as well, I would check the ball joints and sway bar end links.
Majestic honda had the inside trunk light cover...they have a good online parts database, google for it.
I need to replace the motor mounts on my 1992 Accord LX. The driver's side, front, and the transmission mounts look do-able. The rear mounts looks like a real challege ... like you have to remove the intake manifold. Has anyone replaced these mounts themselves before? If so, any tidbits or words of advice?
4. I have also looked for assorted interior repair pieces, mainly door handles, but to no avail. I have manual locks and every door handle I see is for power locks. Anyone know of a good company to contact for good interior pieces?
You might try your local Honda dealer or HondaAutomotiveParts.com . Both should be able to get you what you need.
A few days ago.. I tried to start up the accord... it just turns over. I checked for spark (its there looks a bit weak) checked for gas..(banjo fitting) plenty... took off valve cover checked cam shaft (was told they break) and timing belt (still there) Checked Distributor.. it spins... and cleaned contacts. What do I check next?? any ideas would be welcome.
I have seen locks, but all I need is the plastic covering where the handle and the locking piece fit through. I did see the piece on Majestic, but for a piece of plastic, they of course want big bucks. Every other site I have been on has not carried the piece. Thanks for the reply though. I shall continue searching the old fashion way I guess....junkyard.
I had the same problem, same attempted fixes, same results. In the end I just unplugged the motor from below the passenger seat, used an allen wrench to crank the shoulder latches into the upper position and now I (and my passengers) click in the seatbelts by hand. Not an incapaciting hassle, maybe knocks resale value by $50 or something. I like the way the automatic belt mounts don't rest on your shoulder or neck at all compared to regular belts.
I'm new to this forum and have already found lots of help with some issues with my 93 Accord. The one tonight is trying to find the location of the "main relay". I've bought the replacement but just spent 2 hours in 105 degree weather looking for it. Any suggestions?
I have the same problem with my main relay and have done some research as to where it is and how to test it. Here is a link that may prove to be helpful.
I have a 1990 Accord LX. 2.2L with an automatic transmission which has a sports option. Recently the speedometer stopped working and the check engine light came on. The dashboard sports option light for the transmission is also flashing on and off. All three conincide together. I have reset the check engine light but it will come back on after the car shifts through a few gears. I removed the ECU fuse and replaced it back in and all three conditions were corrected but for only a short time. does anyone have any advice or knowledge on this condition? It sounds like a maybe having an ECU or transmission electronics issue.
I own a 90 Honda Accord and I have a problem with the power steering. When I’m at idle the steering wheel is very hard to turn. If I step on the accelerator the steering wheel gets much easier to turn. When I make turns there is a noise I believe is coming from the power steering. What things could cause this problem?
I removed the plastic power steering reservoir and made an attempt to pump all the fluid out of the system. I then put everything back together and filled the system with new Honda power steering fluid. Problem still there.
i was wondering if a tcu from a 90 or earlier accord would work for a 92 accord ex. ive gone through three trannys and it didnt seem to work so i guess it must be the tcu. gears 1 and 4 dont work and i have to shift 2 and 3 manually. appreciate any help.
Before doing anything, check the front and rear suspension parts on both sides and if they are really greasy dirty, take the car to a car wash. Use some good grease remover and clean both sides up as best you can.
In rebuilding the suspension on a 90-93 accord, it's best to do the lower ball joints first. That's because so many other suspension parts connect to the steering knuckle and lower control arm. Use an air wrench to take off the drive axle nut. It takes a 36mm socket, and it's put on with 78 ft pounds of torque, so you're going to need some umph to get it off. Some of the specific removal detail is omitted here. After removing the strut, use a two-arm puller and pop the steering tie rod end and the upper control arm end loose. Don't unbolt them completely yet, just loosen enough to pop them loose. Remove the brake stuff and hang the caliper. Now pop the lower ball joint and remove the nuts on the steering tie rod end and the upper control arm and the lower ball joint. Pull the steering knuckle around so that you can remove the drive axle. You don't have to remove the brake rotor (the bolts on the backing plate of ours have special star heads, and we don't have a socket that fits), and be ready for some heavy lifting on the steering knuckle. It should come out pretty easily. And you can take the works to a parts house or machine shop for pressing out of the old and in with the new. Or you can try pounding the old lower ball joint out. Be sure you remove the lock ring first. We tried to knock the driver's side out, and found that we couldn't get it all the way out because the little guy in Japan who pressed in the hub bearing race when the car was built didn't press it in quite far enough. It lacks maybe a 16th of an inch being in far enough for the old ball joint to clear coming out.
Here's a rough list of some of the tools you will need to do this:
10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 36mm wrenches and sockets, ratchets and pull handles for 3/8 and 1/2 drives, floor jack, bottle jack, two jack stands, rubber mallet, ball peen hammer, needle nose and regular pliers, spray lubricant, brake cleaning spray, lug wrench, flat blade screwdriver or two, two-arm puller, air wrench and compressor for the axle nut, factory service manual or substitute, couple of 10" adjustable wrenches, torque wrench, a couple of punches, a box of disposable gloves of some type, a sheet of cardboard to lay on when you have to get underneath, lots of something cool to drink, a female companion to read the manual for you so you don't have to get it greasy while working and to keep you on track, and probably something else that I just can't think of right off.
While you've got the brake stuff off, check the pads and make sure they don't need to be replaced or the rotors turned because this is a golden opportunity to take care of that.
Once you get the lower ball joints replaced in the steering knuckles, now is the time to replace all the other stuff with new, the upper control arms, the steering tie rod ends, the struts, the radius rod ends, the stabilizer bar ends and to reinstall all the brake stuff.
I just replaced my Main Relay in my 1993 Honda Accord. So far I haven't had any issues with starting it. I have two part numbers. Advanced Auto for GP Sornson is 415063 they had a price of $73.97, I called O'Reilly and they had a part made by GP Sornson called Borg Part# R3265 this only cost $43.99. I searched online. I found a link for what the part looks like. http://bayareaprelude.com/diy/3rd/mainrelay/mainrelay.jpg. I ran across a great diagram but can't find it now. I hope this helps folks a little.
You can tell I've not done this before... disregard that part in my previous remarks about trying to knock the ball joint out. It won't come out until you remove the backing plate and rotor from the knuckle. Use an E14 Internal Star socket with maybe a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter and air wrench. Then flip the assembly over and swap a 14mm socket for the star. Remove the four bolts holding the hub/rotor and then pry with a tire tool between the backing plate and the knuckle. You can also use a mallet with a block of wood on the inside of the knuckle. Once you get all that loose, you have access to the ball joint. Again, remove the lock ring. Once that's off, you can use a two-arm puller or hydraulic press to get the old joint out. More later.
Hi i have a 90 Honda Accord to keep it running i have to hold the ignition switch in the start position. If i let go the switch goes back to the run position and the car cuts off. Anyone know if this indicates a bad switch or relay or have any info on it. Also when you turn the switch to the run position nothing works radio is dead windows wont roll up or down no power to anything. When you turn it to start it all comes back on.
My boyfriend and I are having problems removing the front bumper to his 1990 Honda Accord. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to take it off or know how and could give us step by step instructions. All help is appreciated. Thanks
That sounds brutal. I have actually done everything BUT lower control arm ball joints, including the brakes. So far so good. It did eat a newer tie rod already, but so far so good for its replacement. When I did all this work, I noticed my end link bushings were missing. They had eroded to nothing. I replaced them with polyurethane ones so I shouldn't have that problem again.
:mad: HELP!! :mad: I'm trying to help my brother out by changing his clutch. His car has over 400K and has only needed regular maintence thus far. I told him that I could change his clutch pretty easily as I have done it on a number of other cars (RWD mind you). Well, after strugling for 8 hours or so just to get the transmission separated from the engine i replaced the clutch and release bearing and I have been trying for two days to get it back on the engine. The clutch is in, and the alignment tool was used, but I can't get any closer than about 3/4" away when it's all lined up. I've tried using the mounting bolts to pull it together as well as a now well-used set of prybars, but the bottom and/or the rear side will not get any closer. The top and front side seem to want to meet, but I can't get the whole thing to just fall together. My brother is on the verge of junking the car because of this and it seems like a real shame to throw a car away just because something is disassembled. PLEASE HELP!!!
hey guys im kinda new to this but i have a 91 honda accord lx (5 speed) and i ran it hard out of gas one day and the next day i put gas into it and it wont start i'v been talking to a few people about it and they told me it could be my fuel pump so i changed that and then i was getting no spark so i bought a new distrubitore and i was getting spark and then it all stoped i was getting noting at all and i still cant get the car to start and im spending all this money for really notin because i really dont no what wrong with it its my first car and i really need help so if someone has this same problem and they fixed it could you please tell me how to do it or give me some sugustions about it and how i may fix these problems and get back on the road.. thanks guys * nathan
hey man i had like the same problem can you tell me what you did and all what was wrong with it bc mmine wont start either but i ran outta gas one day and i dunno what you did but i have people telling me that it could be the fuel relay switch and i dont no who to beleave anymore i have spent so much money on it lol so if you could give me some help on it and what to do that would be awsome thank *nathan
Well, I don't know if this will be helpful, but here is our experience with our 90...
my wife was pulling into our driveway and stopped, turned the engine off, got out to get the mail. She returned to the car, got in and tried to crank it. The engine spun and spun and spun. No start.
After a $450 towing/repair bill we were told by the garage man that 90 models and possibly thru 93 models have some defect or fault with the distributor shaft. They break. Which ours did.
The car will act as though it will start, engine spins like crazy. But no go. The distributor rotor is not turning, hence no crank, or spark.
The outer tie rod ends... the time to loosen them is when the ball joints are being loosened but not removed. The steering knuckle holds the tie rod end snug and limits its turning. The other end of the tie rod end is kept in place by a 17mm locknut. Use an opposing wrench on the steering shaft. Loosen the locknut and mark the tight location with nail polish or something. You can also count the number of turns it takes to remove the old tie rod end. Regardless, the car will have to go to the alignment shop once all this foolishness is completed.
The stabilizer link bolts are 10/12mm and takes two wrenches/sockets, one on top and one on bottom. A service tech said no torque settings to worry about here, so slap in the replacements and tighten until snug.
And now the struts... Once they are off the car and apart, the stoppers, as Honda calls them, will probably be history and need replacing. An internet search will yield a part called a bellows. This is the replacement. Advance Auto sells them too under the name control arm bumper. Once the struts are reassembled they can be replaced in the car with ease.
The control arms... the driver's side is a breeze, just unbolt the old one, torque the pivots on the new one and put it back in. On the passenger side, the fuse box covers the rear control arm nut. Loosen the three 10mm bolts that are easily accessible and you can then gently lift the fuse box enough to get a 17mm box end wrench over the control arm nut. Replacement is just the reverse.
Remove the five or six bolts securing the lower shield so you can check the the front radius rod ends. As I took the passenger side of the shield loose, the nut, washer and front bumper of the radius rod fell off in my face. Could that be where the bumping noise was coming from? Duh. The front of the radius rods consists of a 17mm nut, a large washer, two rubber bumpers and a metal sleeve. The nut needs to be torqued to 42 ft. pounds.
The inner tie rod ends... I will be replacing these and hope to post my experiences with them soon.
I appreciate the thought, but I did not put he disk in backwards. I was very sure to put the "flywheel side" on the flywheel. Do you think the pilot bearing could be bad and cause this problem? I wasn't able to separate them enough to inspect it.
Well if the pilot bearing (which is probably a bushing) got gouged or knocked askew when the trans was removed, it's conceivable that it is hanging up the main shaft, yeah.
Possibly someone also gave you the wrong clutch disk?
Where did you find the main relay? Someone thought it was under the cruise control box. I've bought the relay, just can't find it yet on my 93 Accord. sed1
A correction or two... the locknut on the outer tie rod end is a 19mm, not 17. And when installing the lower ball joint in the steering knuckle, make sure the cotter pin hole is parallel to the knuckle, not in line with it. You want to be able to replace the cotter pin as easily as possible.
Also, if any of the cv boots are torn or otherwise busted, good chance the joint has gone south. We had a new boot kit for our passenger side outer cv joint, but closer examination and a careful scrutiny of Haynes convinced us to just get a rebuilt driveaxle and go with it. A core charge will probably apply when you buy the part. This is what we did to replace the passenger side driveaxle...
You have to get down and dirty again. First take your oil change pan and drain the transaxle (that's the part the driveaxles fit into) of its oil. Looking at the transaxle from the passenger side, there will be a plug at the lowest point which takes a 3/8ths socket. You may want to use your 1/2x3/8 adapter to enable use of the larger ratchet. Once the transaxle is drained, replace the plug and remove the oil.
Take a pry bar and put it between the transaxle and the metal end of the driveaxle and pry the driveaxle off. It should come out pretty easily. Slide it all the way out of the way. Get your replacement driveaxle and check to make sure the spring clip is in the groove on the end. I found it best to keep the outer end of the driveaxle tied up with wire while I worked on the inner part. Slide the end of the driveaxle into the transaxle as far as you can. If you can shove it in until it seats, well and good. I couldn't. There were no round wooden dowels close by at the time so I used a wooden 1x2 about fifteen inches long and a rubber mallet, placed the 1x2 verrrry carefully on the lip of the metal end of the driveaxle on the boot side and gave it a few light taps with the mallet. It seated as I tapped. You can tell if the driveaxle seats because if it does, you can't pull it back out with your hands. That's it, and it's pretty simple, really.
On reassembly of the steering knuckle, coat the part of the end of the driveaxle that fits into the hub with a light coat of grease. You may find it easier to to fit the end of the driveaxle in the knuckle as you hold the knuckle, then you can lift the knuckle and put the end of the lower ball joint down in the lower control arm. It's almost a downhill run from here on in. Once the knuckle is back in place, replace the lower ball joint nut, fit the upper control arm ball joint and the outer tie rod end into the knuckle. If you've waited until now to remove the outer tie rod end, one way is to replace the nut on the tie rod ball joint, loosen the 19mm locknut, remove the nut from the ball joint and unscrew the tie rod end. Be sure and either mark the location of the locknut when tight or count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end.
More about struts... we put them last in line to be reinstalled. It may be easier to replace the strut if the bottom is lubed with kitchen sink soap before the strut is placed in the damper fork. We didn't do that on the first strut, and it has been tedious to get it back in place. Also, be careful in mounting the strut to get the brake hose connections in the right place.
It's there, just difficult to locate and get at. That grey box that you see when you look under the dashboard is the cruise control box. Two nuts and a connector and it's out. The main relay should be on a bracket connected to the firewall almost right above the grey box. There is a connector with 7 wires coming out of it, that's the connector going to the main relay. If you look up "replacing main relay in accords" you can find detailed instructions there.
is there any way to find out if it is the fuel relay switch is gone if i take it out i dont want to bye a new one if that aint the problem bc i have already spend enough money on this car and if it dont work soon im gonna get rid of it
1. Evacuate system 2. remove splash pan 3. remove radiator and condenser fans 4. disconnect lines to condenser 5. unbolt condenser 6. tilt top of radiator towards engine 7. Lift condenser out 8. move condenser mounts (bushings) to new condenser 9, remove shipping plugs and packaging material from condenser 10. rest of installation reverse from removal 11. charge system and enjoy the cold air!!!! :shades:
Comments
After awhile of tinkering and wiggling, it opened.
I crawled inside, expecting to find a lock release. CAN'T FIND. Is there an internal tailgate latch release? If not, isn't that dangerous?
I'm assuming there is no seating back there?
Are you thinking that you may want to exit out there incase of an emergency? A sedan isn't any better.
Mrbill
Heres the setting:
Its a dark and stormy night ( :P sorry couldn't resist the cliche
1. Let the seat down and crawl into the car and escape out of the door and risk being shot or worse
2. Go down with the car if he drives it into a lake.
Now do you see the importance of it? Always think ahead. They even have it on my moms 02 miata and i doubt you'll fit back there but judging by the days we live in now, you never know. My dad has a saying for that: Its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. :shades:
With your wagon, it's kind of hard to get trapped in the back, just crawl over the seat and use one of the doors.
There is a greater chance of a child crawling around in the back of the moving wagon (sure they are suppose to be in a seat, but too many times the parents don't seem to care) and I can see the child pulling the door latch and falling out the back.
What I meant by a sedan not being any safer, if you drove both your wagon and a sedan into a lake, with either car, your going to need to exit out one of the doors. Nobody will be able to remember to shift the sedan into park so the key can be removed, remove the ignition key, crawl over the seats to get to the back, unlock the back seat release, fold the seat down (get the panicking passengers to get out of the way) and crawl into the trunk, find the trunk release in the dark and escape out the back.
Mrbill
I'm looking for an internal release latch or handle on a '91 WAGON TAILGATE.
1. I had a problem with the car not starting when it got warm. Once it cooled down it would start. I have read from earlier posts that it is most likely the Main Relay. I have not had a problem with it this summer, and trust me it is hot here in the southern Texas Gulf coast. Once it starts to give me problems, the main relay will be my first repair.
2. Whenever I turn under power, I notice a clicking sound coming from the front of the car. The sound seems to be suspension related, but since it only happens under power, I am not sure. I thought that it might be something with the valves and did notice a low oil level, but since has still been a problem. Don't know if it is transmission related or what. Can be quite loud at times.
3. My AC/Heating head unit (?) does not work properly. It will not allow me to select the location of the air flow in the interior (only def/feet). I have noticed salvaged units on ebay and the such, but not one that looks like mine (no buttons other than the AC button). Are these interchangeable or do I need to keep looking for an exact copy.
4. I have also looked for assorted interior repair pieces, mainly door handles, but to no avail. I have manual locks and every door handle I see is for power locks. Anyone know of a good company to contact for good interior pieces?
Once again, this forum is awesome and I hope someone can help me out. Thanks in advanced.
Your DX Accord came with a different ventilation control module than uplevel LX and EX Accords did back then.
I agree, check the main relay.
2. Whenever I turn under power, I notice a clicking sound coming from the front of the car. The sound seems to be suspension related, but since it only happens under power, I am not sure. I thought that it might be something with the valves and did notice a low oil level, but since has still been a problem. Don't know if it is transmission related or what. Can be quite loud at times.
Sounds like a bad CV. If it happens anytime you go over a bump as well, I would check the ball joints and sway bar end links.
Majestic honda had the inside trunk light cover...they have a good online parts database, google for it.
You might try your local Honda dealer or HondaAutomotiveParts.com . Both should be able to get you what you need.
someone else posted about this recently,
kazuma, "Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance & Repair" #15, 20 Dec 2005 1:14 pm
Any help?? :confuse:
Thanks
I have seen numberous manual locks on ebay. They are between 5 and 15 dollars. Hope your search goes much better than mine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92020 and not much more at Radio Shack...
Chris...
Thanks!
I have seen locks, but all I need is the plastic covering where the handle and the locking piece fit through. I did see the piece on Majestic, but for a piece of plastic, they of course want big bucks. Every other site I have been on has not carried the piece. Thanks for the reply though. I shall continue searching the old fashion way I guess....junkyard.
Sorry I don't have good news.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm
hopefully this will be of some help.
When I’m at idle the steering wheel is very hard to turn.
If I step on the accelerator the steering wheel gets much easier to turn.
When I make turns there is a noise I believe is coming from the power steering.
What things could cause this problem?
I removed the plastic power steering reservoir and made an attempt to pump all the fluid out of the system. I then put everything back together and filled the system with new Honda power steering fluid. Problem still there.
In rebuilding the suspension on a 90-93 accord, it's best to do the lower ball joints first. That's because so many other suspension parts connect to the steering knuckle and lower control arm. Use an air wrench to take off the drive axle nut. It takes a 36mm socket, and it's put on with 78 ft pounds of torque, so you're going to need some umph to get it off. Some of the specific removal detail is omitted here. After removing the strut, use a two-arm puller and pop the steering tie rod end and the upper control arm end loose. Don't unbolt them completely yet, just loosen enough to pop them loose. Remove the brake stuff and hang the caliper. Now pop the lower ball joint and remove the nuts on the steering tie rod end and the upper control arm and the lower ball joint. Pull the steering knuckle around so that you can remove the drive axle. You don't have to remove the brake rotor (the bolts on the backing plate of ours have special star heads, and we don't have a socket that fits), and be ready for some heavy lifting on the steering knuckle. It should come out pretty easily. And you can take the works to a parts house or machine shop for pressing out of the old and in with the new. Or you can try pounding the old lower ball joint out. Be sure you remove the lock ring first. We tried to knock the driver's side out, and found that we couldn't get it all the way out because the little guy in Japan who pressed in the hub bearing race when the car was built didn't press it in quite far enough. It lacks maybe a 16th of an inch being in far enough for the old ball joint to clear coming out.
Here's a rough list of some of the tools you will need to do this:
10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 36mm wrenches and sockets, ratchets and pull handles for 3/8 and 1/2 drives, floor jack, bottle jack, two jack stands, rubber mallet, ball peen hammer, needle nose and regular pliers, spray lubricant, brake cleaning spray, lug wrench, flat blade screwdriver or two, two-arm puller, air wrench and compressor for the axle nut, factory service manual or substitute, couple of 10" adjustable wrenches, torque wrench, a couple of punches, a box of disposable gloves of some type, a sheet of cardboard to lay on when you have to get underneath, lots of something cool to drink, a female companion to read the manual for you so you don't have to get it greasy while working and to keep you on track, and probably something else that I just can't think of right off.
While you've got the brake stuff off, check the pads and make sure they don't need to be replaced or the rotors turned because this is a golden opportunity to take care of that.
Once you get the lower ball joints replaced in the steering knuckles, now is the time to replace all the other stuff with new, the upper control arms, the steering tie rod ends, the struts, the radius rod ends, the stabilizer bar ends and to reinstall all the brake stuff.
Whew, what a job!!
prvtlewis
http://bayareaprelude.com/diy/3rd/mainrelay/mainrelay.jpg. I ran across a great diagram but can't find it now. I hope this helps folks a little.
prvtlewis
Also when you turn the switch to the run position nothing works radio is dead windows wont roll up or down no power to anything. When you turn it to start it all comes back on.
thx
I'm trying to help my brother out by changing his clutch. His car has over 400K and has only needed regular maintence thus far. I told him that I could change his clutch pretty easily as I have done it on a number of other cars (RWD mind you). Well, after strugling for 8 hours or so just to get the transmission separated from the engine i replaced the clutch and release bearing and I have been trying for two days to get it back on the engine. The clutch is in, and the alignment tool was used, but I can't get any closer than about 3/4" away when it's all lined up. I've tried using the mounting bolts to pull it together as well as a now well-used set of prybars, but the bottom and/or the rear side will not get any closer. The top and front side seem to want to meet, but I can't get the whole thing to just fall together. My brother is on the verge of junking the car because of this and it seems like a real shame to throw a car away just because something is disassembled. PLEASE HELP!!!
* nathan
my wife was pulling into our driveway and stopped, turned the engine off, got out to get the mail. She returned to the car, got in and tried to crank it. The engine spun and spun and spun. No start.
After a $450 towing/repair bill we were told by the garage man that 90 models and possibly thru 93 models have some defect or fault with the distributor shaft. They break. Which ours did.
The car will act as though it will start, engine spins like crazy. But no go. The distributor rotor is not turning, hence no crank, or spark.
prvtlewis
The stabilizer link bolts are 10/12mm and takes two wrenches/sockets, one on top and one on bottom. A service tech said no torque settings to worry about here, so slap in the replacements and tighten until snug.
And now the struts... Once they are off the car and apart, the stoppers, as Honda calls them, will probably be history and need replacing. An internet search will yield a part called a bellows. This is the replacement. Advance Auto sells them too under the name control arm bumper. Once the struts are reassembled they can be replaced in the car with ease.
The control arms... the driver's side is a breeze, just unbolt the old one, torque the pivots on the new one and put it back in. On the passenger side, the fuse box covers the rear control arm nut. Loosen the three 10mm bolts that are easily accessible and you can then gently lift the fuse box enough to get a 17mm box end wrench over the control arm nut. Replacement is just the reverse.
Remove the five or six bolts securing the lower shield so you can check the the front radius rod ends. As I took the passenger side of the shield loose, the nut, washer and front bumper of the radius rod fell off in my face. Could that be where the bumping noise was coming from? Duh. The front of the radius rods consists of a 17mm nut, a large washer, two rubber bumpers and a metal sleeve. The nut needs to be torqued to 42 ft. pounds.
The inner tie rod ends... I will be replacing these and hope to post my experiences with them soon.
prvtlewis
http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinthewest/autotips/999VSSTestLocation.html
Possibly someone also gave you the wrong clutch disk?
Also, if any of the cv boots are torn or otherwise busted, good chance the joint has gone south. We had a new boot kit for our passenger side outer cv joint, but closer examination and a careful scrutiny of Haynes convinced us to just get a rebuilt driveaxle and go with it. A core charge will probably apply when you buy the part. This is what we did to replace the passenger side driveaxle...
You have to get down and dirty again. First take your oil change pan and drain the transaxle (that's the part the driveaxles fit into) of its oil. Looking at the transaxle from the passenger side, there will be a plug at the lowest point which takes a 3/8ths socket. You may want to use your 1/2x3/8 adapter to enable use of the larger ratchet. Once the transaxle is drained, replace the plug and remove the oil.
Take a pry bar and put it between the transaxle and the metal end of the driveaxle and pry the driveaxle off. It should come out pretty easily. Slide it all the way out of the way. Get your replacement driveaxle and check to make sure the spring clip is in the groove on the end. I found it best to keep the outer end of the driveaxle tied up with wire while I worked on the inner part. Slide the end of the driveaxle into the transaxle as far as you can. If you can shove it in until it seats, well and good. I couldn't. There were no round wooden dowels close by at the time so I used a wooden 1x2 about fifteen inches long and a rubber mallet, placed the 1x2 verrrry carefully on the lip of the metal end of the driveaxle on the boot side and gave it a few light taps with the mallet. It seated as I tapped. You can tell if the driveaxle seats because if it does, you can't pull it back out with your hands. That's it, and it's pretty simple, really.
On reassembly of the steering knuckle, coat the part of the end of the driveaxle that fits into the hub with a light coat of grease. You may find it easier to to fit the end of the driveaxle in the knuckle as you hold the knuckle, then you can lift the knuckle and put the end of the lower ball joint down in the lower control arm. It's almost a downhill run from here on in. Once the knuckle is back in place, replace the lower ball joint nut, fit the upper control arm ball joint and the outer tie rod end into the knuckle. If you've waited until now to remove the outer tie rod end, one way is to replace the nut on the tie rod ball joint, loosen the 19mm locknut, remove the nut from the ball joint and unscrew the tie rod end. Be sure and either mark the location of the locknut when tight or count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end.
More about struts... we put them last in line to be reinstalled. It may be easier to replace the strut if the bottom is lubed with kitchen sink soap before the strut is placed in the damper fork. We didn't do that on the first strut, and it has been tedious to get it back in place. Also, be careful in mounting the strut to get the brake hose connections in the right place.
And it goes on...
prvtlewis
2. remove splash pan
3. remove radiator and condenser fans
4. disconnect lines to condenser
5. unbolt condenser
6. tilt top of radiator towards engine
7. Lift condenser out
8. move condenser mounts (bushings) to new condenser
9, remove shipping plugs and packaging material from condenser
10. rest of installation reverse from removal
11. charge system and enjoy the cold air!!!! :shades: