Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

kngcl15

I just purchased a "dead" Accord LX today for $400 w/ 139,438 miles on it. My father and I replaced the Fuel Pump which cost us $150 and took a few hours seeing as how you have to take the whole dam back half of the car apart to drop the tank. There is one problem though...2 of the windows squeak when they go down and they go very slowly....i'm guessing it's just the motors and they aren't that expensive. I was just wondering if the car was worth buying.

Thanks,
Will

moresatori

I have to replace the starter solenoid but am having trouble getting the starter mounting bracket off. It's really tight on there. Can I replace the solenoid without taking off the starter motor/mounting bracket?

mike711

I have asked this question-allbeit at a point where the problem was less of an issue-prior, but am unsure of the answer? I have a 91 Accord, the S Light on the dash now stays on more often. It does not flash, nor does the "check engine" light come on. There will be no codes according to local Honda shop? But for sure, the transmission only works in 2nd and 3rd gear. (By the way the spedo also still works/I know this also can fail in situations like this). I really thought-from reading only-that the problem was one of the two solenoids on the front of the engine block (lock-up solenoids I think they are called?), but when I describe the problem to the Honda people they say it is the VSS (Variable Speed Sensor?). I don't mind paying to have it replaced (they say about $200 for part and $150.00 for labor), but what I don't want to do is do it and then have it be the solenoid(s), or even the ECM? What does anyone thing, does the VSS make sence?

Thanks,

Mike

autoboy16

So you must drive an automatic. Try pressing the button on the left side of the gear shift. So far from what i've read, your car is fine. You are just paranoid. S stands for sport which means the car will wait longer and rev to a higher rpm before changing gears. S is green right? Green is good :P (99.9% of the time)

mike711

I am sorry, I must not have fully given information. The "S" button on the shifter (yes auto) has no effect when the problem occurs. It is quite obvious that it does not start in 1st gear (starts in second), and will not go past third (i.e. it will not go into overdrive). But, and I stress, the problem is intermittent. After the car sits for awhile (not running) the "S Light" will not come back on for awhile?

user777

according to this post, it could be a failed TCM (Transmission Control Module).

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=962851&uid=999378256&dir=1&postid=111228- 54

sargosailor

My daughter parked her 1993 Accord with me for about a year. I had driven it around the block a time or two. Then one day it would not shift out of low. I got up to about 25-30mph and about 4k rpm but no shift. Later I noticed that the speedometer wasn't indicating anything. Took it to an independent transmission repair and $2000 later I had a new(rebuilt) transmission. BUT, oh by the way, rats had eaten some of the wiring and I couldn't drive it like that without damaging the transmission. So they sent it to someone else to fix that.
What do you think? Did I get ripped? I'm suspicious that the speedometer problem may have been the reason the transmission wouldn't shift. The car only has 93k miles.
Thanks for your replies.
Sammy

thegraduate

I had a speedometer problem in my 1996 Accord; it was just the instrument module (tach, speedo, odo, all gauges replaced)...funny thing now is that my 10 year old Accord reads 49,000 miles, even though it has about 161,000 miles.

They replaced the whole instrument panel for me, had nothing to do with transmission.

sargosailor

I was told by a Honda service dept that the 93 engine mounts were the cause of heavy vibration at idle. Mine does vibrate strongly at idle but smooths out as soon as I start moving. Is there a good fix for this problem?
Sammy

butterflyjones

I have a 92 Accord and have the same problem and was surfing for the answer. It is especially bad when the AC is on, any help would be appreciated. Could it be something besides the mounts?? Thanks :surprise: :confuse:

user777

I'm thinking the transmission replacement wasn't necessary. Was it the wiring to the shift solenoids that had been chewed thru?

rab3

I have a '93 Accord wagon and today on my way to work, I put the driver's side window down. When I got to work I tried to put it up again and it wouldn't move, made no noise. All 3 other windows work fine. I am not sure even where to start looking for the cause - under the hood? in the door? Any direction would be welcome!

user777

start with the switch for the driver's door window.

rab3

I am assuming you mean the button on the door. Very funny, already tried that.

user777

FWIW, i was being serious but I'm glad you find humor in your situation.

you didn't say you tried that - what do you mean by tried that? did you remove the switch and check that the switch closed the circuit to enable the motor to drive the window to the up position? did you purchase another switch or perhaps swap the switches from the doors (if they are identical)? did you see if you had a loose wiring harness to the switch?

i'm trying to help you - i bet noone else can read your mind.

is there any mechanical binding that you can see between the window and the rubber seal going around the window frame? i had a '94 which bound on the seal and would slow the motor way way down.

barring all that, i suppose if i felt confident enough doing so, i'd remove the door panel and verify that when I operated the switch, power was getting to the motor. if it was, but the window motor (regulator) wasn't working, i'd probably see if i could purchase one used (perhaps at a pull-it place), or perhaps swap it with a regulator from another door used infrequently.

if i didn't feel confortable doing that, i'd bring it to someone that does (independant perhaps).

mike711

Just wanted to say thanks to those who gave me help with my "S" light problem. I feel pretty confident it is the TCM causing the problem, and I found a guy who will rebuild (i.e. replace the resister(s)) for only $138.00. Perhaps if you knew what you were doing you could do this yourself for only a couple of buck, but I have no idea how to do that.

Anyways, I know for those of you who are "car" friendly some of our questions can seem stupid, but I appreciate the help very much!

user777

let us know if that cures your problem.

tom1sharon2

User777 was not trying to be funny. A faulty driver's side power window switch/control unit is a fairly common problem with this car.

Before taking anything apart, check the fuse in the underhood fuse box. When my switch went bad I was finally able to at least get the window to go up by pushing hard forward on the switch with some downward pressure to momentarily get the contacts to work.

tom1sharon2

If your engine is in good tune and otherwise idles smoothly when in park or neutral it is lkely an engine mount(or mounts) causing heavy low frequency vibration when idling in gear.

The front torque rod and left front mount are easy to inspect and replace if needed if you're going to do it yourself. Support the engine with your jack and a block of wood under the oil pan. The torque rod is just a matter of removing the two bolts. For the left mount you will need move the cruise control to get the cable out of the way and adjust the engine height with your jack as necessary to slip the mount out. When I replaced mine they cost roughly $20 for the front and $50 for the left at Autozone.

The rear mount, however, is a different story.
The automatic transmission models (I'm paraphrasing my maintenance manual here) are equipped with fluid filled dual chamber, electronically controlled rear engine mounts. These mounts smooth out any low frequency vibrations created under high load, low engine speed conditions such as idling in gear with the air conditioning running. When the engine increases rpm's the computer makes the mount firmer.

I haven't tackled this mount (yet), but it appears to be quite labor intensive. If you're going to have a service department changing your mounts, I would highly recommend getting a cost quote first.

autoboy16

Strange that you mention that. My bros. accord starts in second. I know this because daily, we start it up and rev it a little. It changes gears around 1k, then 2300rpm then again around 4500 rpm. Yesterday the car starts and the s light comes on. Then if you turn on the ac it goes off the the car will idle below 1k and shake franticly. The s light will only flash briefly.

sargosailor

Tom, Thanks for the reply. Paragraph one is something I'll pay more attention to. Computer controlled engine mount? What will they think of next? Did replacing your two mounts make any improvement?
Sammy

catam

My son's 92 Accord is having an intermittent problem, wher the car will not start. This problem occurs off and on, and is becoming more frequent. Now the car will also occasionally die while driving and not restart. Then 15 min or 1 day later the car starts and drives fine.
I am fairly sure the problem is with fuel delivery. I know the engine is getting ignition spark at times when the problem is present. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator and the problem persists.
PLEASE HELP. I am out of ideas, anyone had similar probs or another idea of a fix?????
Thanks for any info Catam.

user777

could be the main relay:
see
http://techauto.tripod.com/s.htm

donswartz

Okay. After a week of no noise or flashing seat belt light it started up again. This just drives me crazy. Can anyone out there help. Thanks.

ronaldom

The automatic transmission of my 92 Accord is crazy, some times it works great, other times it "turns on" D4 light and really shifts and lock just the third gear. At these times it just accept to shift to first and rear gears "manually". The return to normal operation happens without notice and rule. Anybody knows what is happen? :confuse:

tom1sharon2

Yes, changing those two mounts made a significant improvement.

While the front mount's main purpose is to support torque changes, mine had deteriorated to the point that the rubber had completely broken away from the mount and the left mount was beginning to crack and felt pretty spongy also. Keep in mind that I'm not suggesting you spend money replacing them unless an inspection of their condition warrants it.

That said, I still have a little vibration when idling in gear (I'm pretty sure it's my rear mount) but it's not so severe that it's worth the hassle and expense of the rear mount at this point.

sargosailor

Thanks again. I will inspect mine asap.

sargosailor

I don't know. They sent the car to another shop for the work. I didn't bother to ask because I knew the answer would be that they didn't know. Thanks for the reply.

lilengineerboy

2nd the "main relay." You should hear the fuel pump kick in when you turn the car to on before crank. If you don't, you still aren't getting fuel. The test for the main relay is a few pages of posts back.

tom1sharon2

I've duly noted your frustration with this over the last few weeks and wish I had more experience with automatic belts, but I can only offer this suggestion based on simple reasoning. Forgive me if you've already tried this.

I believe the warning system will beep and flash as you described when an unsafe condition exists in the restraint system, such as when a belt doesn't fully retract or lock in.

Even if they appear to be working, try giving your shoulder belts some manual assistance reaching full rearward travel in the rail, then ensure they can't be moved out of that position with force once retracted. While your at it, buckle both lap belts and with the doors closed, jerk the living hell out of all the belts to make sure nothing lets loose. If anything gives, the warning system is doing exactly what it is supposed to do.

accord1992

Mhmm Very new at at this..finnaly decieded to refix mah honda.. What are the maintanece that is required that i should b aware about?
My transmission is an automatic n it revs up when the car in drive..den i have to let mah foot go frm the gas..it was said that it would slips on second gear..it sounds like a manual..n i need a new axle on right if im correct..when i make a wide turn i can hear clickin frm the front..

Fukuyama

I have a honda accord 1990 I would like to keep. Time has come for paint and some repair in the body(some rysted areas).. mechanic is asking 750 bucks... Is that a good price?

thank you all guys.

tom1sharon2

Getting estimates from multiple body shops in your area will help you get an idea of an average cost.

thegraduate

I would help if I could understand what you're saying a little better...

Best I can tell, you have tranny problems. Is the "D4" light blinking at all when you are driving? If it is, you need a mechanic, pronto. The blinking D4 is the sure sign that you have transmission trouble.

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds too cheap for competent rust repair, much less paintwork too. But then, on an older car, sometimes 'patch-work is quite justifiable.

Try another shop that is noted for high quality. If the estimate is like 3X as much, you know the first guy is doing a quick patch job for you.

Fukuyama

hi shiftright,
That is what I thought. I took the offer anyway. It looks great after! It runs fine and looks nice. I wont get rid of my car any time soon.

rust was not too much shiftright.. only around the tires (chasis) and a bump on the hood, minor rust. They guy told me though , I might have to replace the rear windshear.

Mr_Shiftright

Well I hope it lasts for you...is there rust around the rear windshield area?

lilengineerboy

Has anyone done inner tie rod ends? I did the outters last year and it was easy enough (easier than the brakes, thats for sure) and I think I have an inner end going bad (grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and pushing and pulling gets some play). Either the tie rod went bad already, something isn't bolted down tight, or there is a problem with the inner.
I also get to replace the upper control arm on the other side-I should've done it when I replaced the one on the other side (again, not a bad job).

shadetreemec2

Did your speedometer work intermittently before it went out? If so most likely the VSS (variable speed sensor) went out.This is located on top of your transmission and is fairly difficult to get to.I believe i paid 20-25 dollars off of e-bay for my replacement part and had it done within a half hour or so.You will need wobbly long extension and 10mm socket if i remember right. Hope this helps.Most auto parts stores can point it out to you or a haynes manual will show you.

shadetreemec2

Just replaced the main relay on mine(1991 accord)and no longer have a problem.The relay cost me 47 dollars at local parts house and supplys power to the ECU and the fuel pump. It is located up under the dash on the drivers side. On my 91 it was held up by one 10mm nut and easy to change when i un-bolted some other silver box with two bolts(10mm)and moved it out of the way.Relay is made by Mitsuba and has a ref.# on it RZ-0088.The parts store was able to cross-reference this # to get correct part.You basically have to stand on your head to change out but takes only about 20 mins.Hope this helps.

cwalti

It appears that your TCU is shot...

mike711

I was just recently able to replace the TCU in my 91' Accord. When inspecting the "board" inside my old TCU, it appears to have a burnt out area, so I am assuming that was the problem with the transmission. So far (only a 100 or so miles driven since replacement), it has solved my problems. It sounds like the problem I had with the trasmission is quite common with early 90's accords?

catam

My son's 92 accord ended up having a problem with the main relay (I hope, so far so good). I appreciate the responses I had about this. The problem dorve me nuts for 2 months trying to diagnose myself, and 2 different shops. Someone sent me a link showing me how to repair the soldering on the circuit board, this was something I would never have thought to do. I ended up repairing mine last night because I wouldn't have been able to get this special order part for a couple of days. Thus the final fix to my problem didn't cost me anything but time....(Oh, and $700 in parts and labor trying to fix the problem unsuccessfully). Thanks again for the help!!

lastwraith

Considering the number of main relay problems lately with the warmer weather we are having, perhaps you wouldn't mind sharing that repair link for everyone?

I just had to change out mine as well as it was intermittently acting up. Something to use to check over and repair the old one would be appreciated.

-K

bob2005

How do you get the rotor off the left front? There were 8 bolts, and those are off, but yet the rotor still wont budge...

lilengineerboy

If its a 90-95, the rotor is "pressed in" to the hub. The manual says to remove the axle. One method is to undo the 4 bolts on the back of the upright a little bit, then stick a block of wood back there over all 4 bolts, then smack the thing with a hammer. An air hammer may also help.
Alternatively, another manual says to just start wailing on the back of the rotor (once those 4 bolts on the back are out) but I was afraid to do that to make the car undriveable.
I was doing a lot of suspension work at the same time so I had the uprights out all together and that made things easier. I was afraid of doing the unscrew/block/hammer thing because I didn't want to hurt the threads.
Good luck and be thankful you don't have to change the front rotors very often.

oldhonda

Folks:

I’m new to the list, searched the archives (best as I could) and found nothing that gives me a clue as to an answer to my questions.

Scenario – 1991 Accord, automatic, bone stock. Had a mechanic install a new timing belt, water pump, camshaft seal, seals, related gaskets and such. 180K on the odometer, all but 40K of it put on by yours truly.

Problem – After the above items done, drove care about 200 miles. Then got lot$ of serious metal making sound$, so stopped immediately (city street at under 30 mph). Friendly AAA guy hooked it and took it back to the scene of the original surgery. Mechanic claims the Front Timing Balancer Pulley committed suicide—an item he said he did not touch or in anyway effect. He also claims it is an anomaly.

Questions – Is he blowing smoke or is it truly coincidental? Is this a rare, or common occurrence with this engine/mileage? Should I be going back to the shop with a baseball bat (for the car or the mechanic)?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts,

Randy

vi3tpride93

Hi,
I have a 1993 honda accord lx I just bought the other day. I was driving it and found out that i need to replace the brakes. I am planning on changing the pads and rotors. I heard that the rotors are sort of hard to get off. Are there any tips you can give me or anything I should know before diving in?
Thanks

autoboy16

hey he's not lying. Take my advice and get rid of the 1991 for a 92 or newer. Its about to have madd problems. My bros 91 accord ex had that happen. My bros accord has 150k miles and that happened recently. Next the pulley will snap, then goes the starter, timing belt and $$ you were saving. His timing belt was snapped by the pulley when it broke. That corrupted the starter and then it became an electrical nightmare. The drivers power window will go down 4inches then yell at you like crazy. Then the ac will blow colder and then die soon. We spent more $$$ on the car than we did buying it. We spent $900 on the car and so far $5000 fixing that stuff (except for the power windows) because the pulley kept snapping and the timing belt kept going with it. The starter was a 2 time thing.

btw, when the timer is changed, the engine bay makes a constant ticking noise that won't go away. The good news is, it gets good gas mileage from sitting so long in between repairs!

catam

Heres the link:
http://techauto.tripod.com/s.htm

In the upper left of the page is a Icon that says: Main relay repair.
This will show you how to inspect and resolder the main relay. Good luck.

FWIW, my son's car has been running fine since the repair, (knock on wood).