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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Automanufacturer warranty replacement parts may be new or rebuilt per the discretion of the automanufacturer. In the case of smaller components I wouldn't want to bet against the liklihood that Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc. contract with the same rebuilders in the U.S. that supply Pep Boys, Autozone, Kragen, etc. (only the shipping box's graphics protecting the "guilty") Large assemblies such as short blocks, transmissions, etc. are more likely dealt with by automanufacturer owned and operated facilities in the countries of distribution. As for mixing components at time of rebuild, so what? The original pullies, case halves, armatures, etc. were pulled at random out of a bin, off a tray, or snatched from a conveyor belt, too. (Hmmm... Didn't Henry Ford have some grand notion of the concept of "interchangeable parts" used on "repetitive assembly line work stations" to assure a greater degree of efficiency and QC? But, I guess that was just for American products - too bad it never caught on with European and Asian automanufacturers... ;))
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,730
    Yes but while they are manufactured to the same tolerances each and every part, they do not wear or stress to the same tolerances. Rebuilt failure rates are generally higher than new.

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  • Hi. I'm new here (just discovered this site) and have a question concerning engine vibration in my 1993 Accord LX. I just had the local Honda shop replace the timing belts, drive belts, water pump, and balance shaft seal.

    When I got the car back it had a bad engine vibration that can be felt all the way through the RPM range, not just at idle. At highway speeds the high frequency vibration can be felt throughout the car so much it will make your hands and feet tingle. The engine noise inside the car has also increased dramatically, probably due to harmonics from the vibration. The car has just been tuned up and is otherwise running great.

    I immediately took it back to the dealer. They didn't seem to think it was a problem and after a few minutes determined the culprit was probably the front engine mount(torque rod). This seems an unusual coincidence to me, since the car was smooth and quiet prior to the timing belt replacement.

    My question is, does this type of vibration sound characteristic of a worn engine mount?
  • I've had a problem with my 1990 Honda Accord for a while now. My taillights will work with the headlights when my engine is off, or else when the engine and the e-brake are on. They will not work as soon as I take my e-brake off or start my car. In short, when I drive at night I do not have taillights. The brakelights do work, as do the signal lights. The problem began when I had my distibutor replaced a year ago. I removed the automatic car starter thinking that was the problem but it has persisted. I have checked the bulbs and the fuses but nothing seems to be wrong there. Anyone have any ideas? I should mention that it is a manual transmission.
  • femifemi Posts: 5
    thank you so much user77. i will go through the links you provided.
    Happy new year
  • (90 Accord DX Automatic w/115,000 miles)
    I replaced the battery and the following day I ran into the following:
    Went to work and back (35 miles) with no issues.
    Parked the car and then drove it about 10 miles when the sport shift light started flashing.
    Parked the car for the night. On the way to work the light was off initially and then started flashing again. A couple of miles later the check engine light came on and the speedo and odo stopped working.
    I leave work at the end of the day and dont have any idiot lights on initially but the speedo/odo is still not working. Within a mile or so it all starts over again.

    All the while the car is running and shifting like it has since I bought it with 110,000 miles on it. The upshifts are fairly harsh from time to time and often it upshifts at a low rpm (when it probably shouldnt) and does so in a harsh manner...almost like it has a old school shift kit in it.

    I've seen similar posts but nothing noting a battery change or all of this stuff happening at once. Can somebody give me some idea as to what I can do to rememdy it? I am assuming that all of the issues are tied to a common cause and that the battery swap probably started the sequence of events.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    FWIW: i'm not an expert but the fact you drove 45 miles without an issue after replacing the battery... i don't think there is a connection (battery replacement and speedo / CEL). anyway, i don't see how that would / could happen. if the battery were really bad, i'd expect you'd have other lights on, and the alternator would fail to keep it charged.

    i suspect everything is connected to a speed pickup sensor which is intermittent. perhaps just a loose wire. i don't know. i think the speedo dropping and the harsh shifting are a result of it failing to sense speed properly.
  • patf1patf1 Posts: 1
    What special tools are needed to repair brakes on my 1990 Honda Accord ex? My son and I are trying to do ourselves. The brake pads are completely missing. Where do we start?
  • thanks. I will head to my parts store and pick one up. Does anybody know what the error code will pop up if it is the sensor? I just want to be sure because electrical devices are darn near impossible to return (if its not the source of the problem)
  • 1990 honda accord won,t start pulled spark pugs out 2 see if it was firing but theres no sparks
  • I had the exact same problem with my car, the problem was the (DRL) day time running lights relay, located on the drivers side inside car. change that or if you have enough knowledge you can re solder the board inside.
  • Hi i have a honda accord 1990 manual
    the problem is the acceleration is going up and down
    when this is hapenig the temperature marker dont work
    can some body help me
  • Hi. I bought a '92 Accord in December with 93K, and have been very pleased so far.

    Anyway, I'm having a rough time changing a burnt out driver side headlight bulb. I finally got the power cable off, but I still can't seem to get the actual bulb out. I guess it's supposed to rotate counterclockwise until it releases, but I can't get it to budge. Do I need to push it in while turning it or something? Can anybody walk me through this part? Thanks a million.
  • A little more info would be helpful. When does this usually happen? Just when starting the car, randomly while on the road, when in Park?

    If it's just after starting the car (which is a pretty common problem for this vintage), it could be something as simple as a Fast Idle Valve needing to be replaced. This is also a pretty easy part to troubleshoot. Just undo the 2 screws holding on the lid after starting the car, lift the cover, and feel for vacuum.
  • On mine the bulbs pull out, but there is a retaining collar that needs to be twisted to unlock. That may be stopping your progress. On some cars Ive seen though, the collars are gone or broken off long ago.
  • I have a 1992 Accord 173K, and it's recently started to accelerate on it's own when its in park, or when I'm driving under 40mph. Basically, the tactometer won't go below 2000RPM, without a fight. I can keep it in control, using the brake, but when I let off it, it takes off. Any ideas what it is?
  • I have a 92 accord with and automatic transmission which is difficult to move from Park to any gear and from any gear back to park. The transmission shift and works great except the lever is difficult to move as stated. It moves fine everywhere else (D1 to D2 to D3 to neutral) Any ideas as to why? and if so and ideas as to a fix? Thanks
  • I had this problem a few months got to the point that I almost couldn't put it in park at all. I took it to my mechanic, and he removed the consol between the seats so he could get underneath, and he said he just greased the track or whatever you call it, and it's shifted fine ever since. If it's the same with your car, this is a really inexpensive fix...lucky you :)
  • Where exactly is the relay? You said it was on the drivers side but I'm not sure where I should be looking. Thanks for your help!!
  • fguzzofguzzo Posts: 3
    I have a 92 Accord DX and the Cigarette Lighter is not working . I dont have the manual for this car does anyone know which fuse controls the Cig adapter.
  • I've got a '93 accord and when I take it out for the first time of the day, after 13 miles it loses all power below 3000 rpm. If I shut it off and then turn it back on, same thing. If I leave it for a day, I can drive it another 13 miles and then no power below 3000 again. I had a mechanic check it who, of course, couldn't duplicate problem. It's an automatic if that matters. I'm thinking a sensor or computer issue. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,730
    clogged catalytic converter? Have you tried a catalytic by-pass pipe installed by a muffler shop?

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  • Thanks for the tip. Why would I still have power above 3000 rpm? Thanks again!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,730
    Oh, I misread your post...I thought power died at 3,000.

    Okay forget THAT suggestion!


    If you have power loss AT a certain rpm but neither above or below, I'd have to suspect something ignition or timing related...but that's a tough one...I'll have to ponder this...

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  • After a cold start it'll go about 13 miles and then loses all power below 3000 rpm. I can still get power above 3000. It seems like I have to let the engine rest for up to a day to get power out of the lower rpm band. I know what you mean about ponder. I'm no goofball but this has me perplexed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,730
    tell you this in "Technical Questions" and make a call for to give it a try.

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  • I can't find the Technical Questions Forum. Is it under Honda Accord or is it more general? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,730

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  • My son has a '90 Honda Accord LX. After he got his after market radio stolen when he turns on the headlights the dash lights don't work and he doesn't have any rear running lights and the electric antenna doesn't work. He has to pull it up by hand. He said he checked all the fuses and none were blown. We live 400 miles apart so I can't go see the car myself.
    Any ideas on what it could be?

  • Unsure if this will help, but have been pondering your quandry since reading it. Could there be something with the Vtec componentry? I am unsure if this generation of accord had it. My other thought was something to do with variable intake manifold componentry - again, unsure of this year's engine content, but could be a culprit??? Nonetheless, Just some thoughts...
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