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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • The engine light came on today in my 1992 Accord, which has 175K miles on it. The car seems to be running fine and normal, no change in anything. The light also came on about a month ago and then went off after a couple of days. I have researched error codes and tried to get one to display when this happened before, but was unsuccessful. Should I go to a repair shop and prepare for a big bill and a possible ripoff? Or can I figure out part of this out myself? Signed, Stumped Female
  • xmf314xmf314 Posts: 154
    If you are replacing the front pads you'll need a set of metric sockets and a ratchet, to remove the calipers. A caliper compressing tool to compress the caliper piston (available at any auto parts store or SEARS). For removal of the rotors there are two types. If your accord has floating rotors, they will simply pull off. If there is a lot of rust, there should be two threaded holes on the rotor's hub area directly across from each other. If I remember right they are 10mm x 1.25 bolts to loosen the rotors. If they are pressed on rotors you will need a slide hammer, but only to replace them. Most shops can turn pressed on rotors with the spindles as a unit. If you are replacing them and have to remove them with a slide hammer re careful not to rip apart the wheel bearing. If it does come apart inspect the bearings and if good add lube and reinstall.

    If there is a lot of rust on the drums there should be two holes on the drums just like the rotors to remove with a pair of bolts. For the rear brakes you will need a pair of dykes to remove the smaller springs. A Spring removing/installing tool for the larger springs ( any auto parts store or SEARS). You could use the dykes to remove the shoe retaining springs or purchase the tool for this as well.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Most autoparts stores such as Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. will plug a scan tool into the OBD-II (second generation On-Board Diagnostics - the means by which the car's computers "talk" to service techs) connector and read the code for you as a free service. They can then look up the possibilities based on any code(s) found. While a tech may still have to resort to some old fashioned sleuthing, the OBD-II should narrow it down considerably. It would be up to you to decide where you'd want to have any indicated repair work done.
  • I have just bought, cheap! A 91 Accord LX, with two issues I would greatly appreciate any help possible. First the "S" (sports mode transmission) light comes on a stays on (i.e. it does not blink, and this is the case if I toggle back & forth between the "normal" and "sort mode" switch on the shifter), when this happens the car does not shift out of 2nd gear. The odd thing is that when you turn the car off, it appears to reset (for awhile) and the "s" light goes out and the transmission resumes shifting (albeit hard like most Hondas of this generation) normally, but the "s" light on condition will then resume after 5 to 15 miles?

    Second, the heater blower motor does not function at present? The first thought of course is the motor itself, yet in Feb of 2004 the blower motor was replaced with a "new" blower motor that I have the receipt for from a local garage? It seems very odd for the motor to go out again in less than 1 year. Is there any sequence of steps that I can take to issolate if it is indeed the motor? Perhaps it is just a relay or a fuse that I can't see as being burn out? I am not sure what fuse sequence to check, the potential of a relay, or really even how to issolate the motor itself to 12v to see if the motor is gone.

    Any help people would like to give with this I would be greatly appreciative. I have owned many Toyota's (2 presently), and I bought this car as a back and fourth to school car (44 years old going back to med school), so really just looking to make the car sound for intown driving!

    Thanks guys, this forum is great!

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    googling turned this up:

    i'm sure you can find more details by googling with more specificity.

    for example, how to eek the stored codes out of the system google:
    +accord +"S light" +steady +transmission
  • Thanks for looking that up, it at least arms with with some things I can do prior to taking my car to Honda and having them tell me to take it to a transmission shop, who does not really want to do anything but rebuild to transmission. I am greatful!
  • OBD-II they have at the chain places, but remember she has a '92 Accord. Solid advice though otherwise. Would've posted it myself already had the forums not been read-only during maintenance ;)

    Sbridgett: You might want to know how to trip the check engine light to spit out the error codes also.

    The pictures show the connector and the instructions tell you what you need to know to get the Check Engine Light to flash out the error codes. Then, a quick visit to any number of sites online (the cybertrails one being a good one) should pop up a chart detailing what each code means in plain english so you can narrow the problem.

    The other way to get the codes is to just pull up the passenger side carpet and read the flashing of the LEDs on the TCM and ECU (those two little metal boxes) when you turn the key in the ignition. There is an LED on each unit that will flash out codes that correspond to a list (one list of codes for each).

    good luck
  • my 1993 honda accord also experiences random loss of power on longer trips, but otherwise the engine operates normally. this started after replacement of spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. the repair shop has not found the specific problem. if you or anyone else have any ideas let me know...jajomo
  • Thank you so much for the advice and the link to the very easy to understand directions! This message board rocks! :shades:
  • I have a 92 honda accord and it isn't getting any fire. I have replaced the distributor, coil, and spark plugs. Recently I had the igintion switch replaced and it ran fine for a week and then it shut down. So I had the ignition module tested and they say it was bad. So that is why I replaced the whole distributor. After replacing the distributor it ran for about 10 miles and died again. So we took the distributor back and got another new one and also a new coil. But still no fire. We have checked the wiring under the hood. I am just wondering if maybe something they did to replace the igintion switch may have something to do with it not getting fire? Thanks
  • dad7xdad7x Posts: 1
  • The front rotors are a bit of a chore. I ended up removing the whole upright, then using an air hammer on the bolts on the back to get the press fit rotors off. For reference, on most cars, you just remove the caliper and the rotor will slide off. On the Honda, you have to undo the axle nut, slide the spindle though the hub.
    While this is very simple for most cars, in the case of the 90-95 Accords, I definitely recommend having a shop manual (even a Haynes or Chiltons is better than nothing)on the car being worked on.
    While you are in there, pay attention to the tie rod ends, the sway bar end links, and the upper and lower ball joints. Since you are likely going to need a wheel alignment anyway, you might want to consider replacing some of these components at the same time.
  • i disconnected my battery on my 91 accord lx and now when i try to reconnect the battery cables my car begins to honk. Is there some sort of security feature i am unaware of ???
  • fuel injection/2.2 engine/4 cylinder

    according to what i know, as soon as the vehicle is turned on about a minute afterwards the rpm rises and then lowers repeatedly.

    the idle control valve has already been replaced but the problem still occurs. also the engine was replaced, used and shipped from japan (not rebuilt). it is said that the engine is in good shape.

    so pretty much what i'm looking for is what else could cause the vehicle to have this problem?

    thank you.
  • Turn key on, D4 flashing with check engine light
    still on, engine will crank but not start. If the
    check engine light goes out while D4 is flashing
    the engine will start but the transmission is in
    high gear not first when you take off. Any ideas?
    Have already changed TCU with a good unit.
  • ok i have a 90 accord coupe with a 91 engine thats already had a swap before i got it and it runs great but the body and suspension is in rough i bought a 92 honda accord lx thats stock...the thing is..the 92 has a coil on the distributor and the 91 doesnt...whats the procedure in swapping them out....thanks steve
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    When D4 is flashing, there is a significant transmission problem, as stated in all Honda owners manuals (even our Odyssey was like that). Good luck.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    No, no security system was offered in Accord LXs until at least 2003. Sounds like a fuse or bad wiring? (just a guess)
  • This is my first post on the Edmunds board so I hope this goes through. I had a similar problem with my 93 Accord. I took it to my mechanic (who I trust and have had very good luck with). He said it was the the cable and explained it by comparing it to a bike brake cable. They get worn and begin to fray which makes it hard to move the shifter (I'm assuming you have an automatic like mine). He said that it needs to be fixed because if it breaks and you are in drive you can't shift to park and take the key out of the ignition...somewhat of a safety concern as well I suppose.
    To have it repaired was I believe in the 400 range...the parts were relatively cheap but the labor of removing the center console was expensive.

    Good luck

  • Mil: 130K miles
    Symptoms: Doesn't start.. it tries to crank but didn't start.

    What I did: took the car to walmart, had battery replaced after testing the old battery. It worked fine for 3 weeks and didn't start again.

    This time I took it to a Mobile Gas station repair shed. The mechanic said battery is dead !! suggested me to replace battery. He said there is no problem with starter/alternator. Then it worked fine with new interstate battery for another 3 weeks and is not starting again (Midwest winter).

    I had to give up the Honda and drive my new CAMRY for last 2 months. I didn't get chance to take the honda to repair.

    Now that the Winter is almost over, I tried to jump start the honda... it make cranking noise, but doesn't start.

    What shd I do ?(take it to dealer ? )

    I don't know how much to trust the local mechanics..

    Pls advise....
  • 1. Take the battery back to Wal Mart, should still be under warranty. If they have an auto service area, they should be able to check the charging system.
    2. If you haven't replaced the main relay I would think that might be suspect. If the car is cranking, the battery is okay. The main relay energizes the fuel pump, and is prone to failure. In Hondas in my life that have had a "no-start" condition, this has been the issue for 4 of the 5, and the 5th had a bad distributor.
    When you go to start the car, if you turn to the ON but not CRANK position, you should here it click and then hear the fuel pump building pressure. If you don't, I would think that is the culprit. You can chekc by measureing to see if the fuel pump is getting voltage at that stage. The repair manual will explain how.
    3. You should really invest the $15 and get the repair manual for the car. It will tell you how to check the main relay, and replace it if it is the problem. Even if you don't do any work yourself, it may also help you talk to a mechanic.
    Good luck, and as they say, YMMV.
  • Brace yourselves for this one...

    I bought a 93 accord EX from a girl that took little or no care of it at all. My intentions for this car is to get it back to peak performance. It has taken a while and I am quite close. When I first got the car it hadn't been cranked in over a year. I was able to jump it and get it to my house which was a little under a mile away. I noticed right away that the check engine light was on and that it wouldn't go past 3500 rpms in drive, neutral, park or whatever. I got the car home and did the immediate things such as changing the oil and water and fuel and fuel filter and oil filter and air filter and replaced the battery and still couldn't get the thing to go past 3500 rpms, was the strangest thing. I used the jumper and got the codes from the check engine light. it was 4 pause 8 pause 4 and it was continued so it was either 4 and 8 or 48 and it made sense that it was 48 and so I changed the o2 sensor. Still wouldn't go past 3500 rpms. A friend told me that it was the cat, so I took it off and replaced it and still won't go past 3500 rpm. Finally I thought of the spark plug wires, the distributor and the button and replaced them all and it works fine about 7 of 10 cranks. Sometimes it will be working fine and the check engine light will all of a sudden come on and it won't go past 3500 rpm. Another friend told me that it was the car's ground and that I needed to check the resistance. Well I didn't think that was it so I kinda blew that off, but just now while I was installing a radar detector (hardwiring it) I noticed that I couldn't get a ground inside the car. I took the radar out and tested it at the battery and it worked fine. I went back in and checked power at the fuse box and that was fine. But I can't get a -12v ground... WTF? The only thing that I can think that will help with this is that the front left and right quarter panels are damaged and the corner lights were broken. I have no problems with any of the lights except for at the front right of the car and I can't get them to work. The flasher on the inside blinks all the time and a new one does the same. The wires do not look damaged though? Does anyone have any idea about this??? Please help me if you do. I want to get this thing fixed so bad and I'm so close.

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    I think I would pull the neg and pos from the batt, and clean the battery terminals, then for the gnd wire, I'd check where it goes and verify it goes to someplace it is supposed to (research) and that point is clear of any rust, debris, paint.

    I don't know what you mean by the flasher on the inside blinks. Can you explain?
  • The flasher is the little relay looking item that makes the clicking sound under the dash when you use left right or hazard turn signals. If you remove it they do not work at all. In my case it is clicking double time and only clicks at the right pace when I actually use the turn signals. It clicks all the time if the key is on. I'm thinking of replacing the ground wire on the car. It looks to be where it should be but it is fraid before it gets to the spot where it at the car and then it comes back together. Not broken but unwound and that may throw the ground off some???
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    well, yes, you should replace it. will it throw the ground off some? The thicker the wire, the more current carrying capability, the less likely it is to have sources of resistance to carrying proper current flow. Intermittent connections could be the source of varying voltage / electronics reset / initialization / sensor flakeys, etc.

    was the vehicle in an accident? seems like something is messed up with the steering column mounted switches and perhaps more.

    did you verify all fuses and relays in all fuse / relay recepticles are properly inserted?
  • Yeah... No accident ever noted, clean record, but the two front corners are damaged. If you could imagine a blind person trying to parallel park. I had to order clear corner lights and 2 fenders but the frame work and the bumper and all seem fine. Back to that ground is that why the car will run but I still can't get a good ground on an additional electronic device? That is so strange. I'm going to go to advanced auto and buy a new ground harness this weekend and try that. Maybe that will do it.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    Well, I'm not sure how you are wiring your accessory... Why can't you get a good ground? I'm not sure. Are you trying to connect to a GND wire in a harness, or are you going to vehicle ground? All I can think of is paint and plastic. Perhaps there is a preferred means to wire the accessory and ground. First thing I would have tried would have been to parallel off the Accessory Plug. Have you got 12VDC on those terminals with the car on?
  • 1990 Honda Accord driver's side window has gone off the track and I can't figure out how to remove the interior panel..can I do it myself or do I need to go to a repair shop?
  • The check engine light goes on intermittently, usually shortly followed with the odometer and speedometer quitting. The light thing started a little before I had to replace the alternator. The car is running great, it's been tuned, oil's good. Any ideas?
  • optimooptimo Posts: 4
    Yeah, I know about plastic and I know about paint. I used to work at a car stereo place. What's weird is that I can't get a ground I think that with the car running or with the key on the power and the ground are balanced out. I know that sounds weird. Someone said that a wire could be grounded out to the metal nearby and not enough to pop a fuse or to burn anything but enough to throw off the ground. I have never heard of such. I have a clean ground point i just can't get a gound there.
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