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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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    dlogandlogan Member Posts: 1
    the radios from that period wear out and are worthless.
    get a new radio and speakers if you can afford it!
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    rkbusenitzrkbusenitz Member Posts: 6
    I've got an aftermarket cd player in the car so I know that that isn't the issue. I haven't checked the fuses under the hood...didn't realize there were any under there. Should I be able to find them pretty quickly? or any thoughts as to where they might be?
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    rkbusenitzrkbusenitz Member Posts: 6
    also, one thing i failed to mention is that the dome light works, so i can always drive with that on at night to see the speedo. i wonder what a cop would say if i told him i thought i was going the speed limit :)
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    rkbusenitzrkbusenitz Member Posts: 6
    Okay...now I feel stupid. I looked under the hood and found the fuses there. The secondary radio fuse (7.5) was blown. Replaced it and now the radio and clock work. Thanks for the ideas and help.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Haha...you shouldn't feel stupid, but I bet you'd take feeling stupid over having your dash taken apart, anyday, no?
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    The dealer, any Honda dealer should be able to get you your car's code. You need to go there, though, they wont give it to you over the phone.

    If they are reluctant, call Honda.

    And WRITE IT DOWN, KEEP IN A SAFE PLACE, 'cause next time when you replace your battery, it would cause the radio to lose its code again.
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    uofm360uofm360 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 1996 Accord EX 2.2 VTEC with 148,000 miles and for the past 6 months the engine will hesitate when I am accelerating between 2000 and 2500 RPM's. I have also noticed my gas mileage is getting worse. The Check Engine Light has been on twice but it has gone off before I can get it looked at. I have taken it to receive the free tune-up from Honda but it didn't fix the problem.
    Any suggestions would be great
    Thanks!
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    verify that the engine air filter is clean.
    see if your vehicle has an EGR valve.
    catalytic convertor efficiency dropping.
    MAF sensor becomming inoperative.
    02 sensor bad, vehicle is running excessively lean or rich.

    could be a lot of stuff really.
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    miami007miami007 Member Posts: 2
    Help Help Help....
    I drove my Mom's car to Orlando. On the way home today, the Check engine light came on. I pulled into the Turnpike gas station and no one was available to help me. I took out the manual and it said emissions problems or engine problems. Gee... ya think? Anyways, I drove about 150 miles home to Miami and it never went off. The car has 76,000 miles on it. It drove great. Oh, this also happened....The speedometer stopped working. It would occassionally go to 60 and back to 0. The light around the D4 kept flashing on and off. All the other instruments were working properly. There was no loss of power. I made it home but it is still on.

    Someone wrote about 98-081 service bulletin. What is that? I accept all input for the all knowing....

    Thanks,
    Joan :sick:
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Welcome to the club, Joan.

    But this is a GOOD club, for a change.

    You are COVERED BY A SPECIFIC EXTENDED WARRANTY issued by Honda (as a result of a class action law suite filed against Honda in California).

    You probably have a faulty speed-sensor (and probably a bad Distributor too), but if your D4 light is flashing, it might be something else too, which may be covered (the list mentions some parts in the transmission too).

    Go to your nearest Honda dealer, and let him take care of it. Of course, mention the 98-081 bulletin, and ASK HIM TO GIVE YOU A PRINT OUT OF THE BULLETIN, since there is a LOT of info about a LOT of parts that are covered.

    Or, you can do a Google search for "Honda 98-081" and find the PDF file (the mods of this board would not allow us to post web site addresses here).

    You are also entitled to a FREE TUNE UP now (at 75,000) and this specific warranty covers your car up to 150,000 miles, or 15 (or 14, don't remember) years....

    See, life can be so good, sometimes.

    Be happy.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    If the D4 was flashing, according to the manual, you are experiencing transmission problems.
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Yes, true. But the (long) list that comes under that warranty mentions also some part/s in the transmission. I remember seeing that and remember being surprised to see it.
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    uofm360uofm360 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the suggestions. The air filter is brand so I know its not that. I am not familiar with the MAF sensor though. What does that control?
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    MassAirFlow sensor - helps the engine control unit determine the amount of air flowing into the engine, which then is used to schedule the proper fuel flow... i would imagine running excessively lean or rich could be a problem, although if the MAF were completely faulted, the ECU would revert to a pre-defined "typical" set of values based on other measurements.

    i have been told that a sufficiently clogged CAT can result in very poor power.

    explain the hesitation you experience again.
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    zedjzedj Member Posts: 1
    D4 light flashing : check ur gear sensor ! Might be faulty
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    uofm360uofm360 Member Posts: 13
    It occurs between 2000 and 2500 RPM's in all gears, except first, when I am accelerating. It feels like the engine is missing or not getting enough fuel. Once the engine gets above 2500 RPMs it suddenly accelerates faster and smoother.

    About two months ago the dealer replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and air filter. That tune-up didn't change anything.

    I also wanted to mention that the car will sometimes idle extremely rough at 800 RPMs. It makes a sound thats hard to explain but it echos in the cabin of the car.

    My gas mileage has also gone from about 31 MPG to 26MPG.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    I think you need to post your question over in Quick Technical Questions where it might be seen by more people.

    I'm thinking sticking EGR Valve or ports, perhaps even a bad O2 (Oxygen) sensor.
    http://autorepair.about.com/od/generalinfo/l/bldef165.htm

    Sorry I can't be of more help.
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    uofm360uofm360 Member Posts: 13
    After reading that article it does seem like the EGR valve could be the problem.

    Thanks for your suggestions!
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    lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Easy way to check....disconnect the electrical connector to it and run the car. Car will run rough once warm, determine the EGR is faulty/disconnected and revert to a default mode. If the car runs fine, the EGR valve is your problem. I'm currently running my car with it disconnected until I grab a replacement.
    Car will initially run rough for a few seconds when it has warmed up and you are on the gas at low speeds, but just stay on the gas and the CEL will flash and you should be running A-ok. Assuming the EGR valve is your problem of course.

    good luck
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    94accord_lover94accord_lover Member Posts: 42
    94 Accord LX coupe, 74,900 miles, auto trans. May be having problems mentioned from a few posts back. I, too, am dealing with the high RPMs at highway speeds. Mine usually runs from 2750 rpm @ 60 mph to 2900-3000 rpm @ 65 mph. I also noticed that my temp gauge hardly ever goes up more than 1/4 of the way. I can't tell what the actual temp is (why the h*!! would you make a temp gauge w/o numbers?!!), but my guess is only 135-140, and this is at max. I make an 11 mile round trip to school (im 16) every day, and it rarely gets past the bottom white mark. Recently i made a trip to Athens (from where i live, about 70 miles) on highway averaging 60-65 mph, and my tach consistently sat @ 2800 rpm. That was running cruise control, and the temp never got above (my guess) 140. I thought that these were just characteristics of a honda, but now i know different. My dad (who is a mechanical genius) and i are going to replace the thermostat to see if that makes a difference. Thank you all for your help :) . had it not been for the posts that mentioned my problem, i probably would've never given it a second thought. I love my car and would NEVER want anything bad to happen to it.
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    I don't know to which posts you're refering to, as mentioning your problem. BUT:

    A. The "famous" 98-081 recall mentioned here is ONLY for V6 Accords of your generation.

    B. If you're refering to that recall, one typical problem is the tachometer needle JUMPING up an down (and then staying at 0). I don't think driving 60-65 at 2,800 rpm is abnormal, especailly when you use the cruise control.... Try driving without it, change speed, push the gas down, see how your rpm changes, together with the sound coming from the engine....

    C. The temp gauge in my '95 Accord (up till February) has always been very low, at around 1/4, and never reached 1/2. Our new Accord has never reaced 1/2 either (so is my new Sonata).... So maybe there is no much reason for worry.

    If your car's engine sounds right, the car drives smooth, it does not consume oil, and doesn't lose coolant, I don't see any problem.

    Please check about your TRANSMISSION FLUID. Check the color and smell. At this "age" you MUST change the fluid, not just drain it, but power-flush it (your mechanic should have this special equipment), and put in ORIGINAL HONDA fluid. If your car had never had this fluid changed, you should be noticing smoother gear shifting after new fluid is put in.

    And drive carefully, please. Better lose a minute in your life, than your life in a minute.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The temp gauge does NOT go all the way to the middle (mine sits pointing at about 8 o'Clock, and doesn't represent temps on a scale. It only starts to rise when it is actually overheating. The temperature actually fluctuates a little, though the needle needn't move. The needle WILL go up if the car overheats, as I experienced when my main cooling fan stopped working two summers ago.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    as i recall, my '94 had a similarly vague temp indication, where the needle didn't go past 8 or 8:30 (unless also, I had a fan problem - relay in my case).
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    lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    If your temp gauge isn't warming up to where it should AND you are not getting overdrive (which is why RPMs are so high at cruising speed) I'd bet money that changing the likely stuck-open thermostat will alleviate your problems.

    Give us some feedback though once you've changed it out.
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    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    I am ignorant of how the thermostat plays a role, but I do want to second lastwraith's comment that the 94 Accord is not getting into overdrive. On my 97SE (same engine as 4-cyl LX), at 60mph, my tach sits around 2500.

    '97 Accord SE
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My 1996 Accord LX 2.2L is similar. When not accelerating at all, RPMs will actually reside between 2250 (the little line on the tach) and 2400RPM. I am at 3,000 RPM by the time I hit 76 MPH. I experimented yesterday on my way home, and that's what I found.

    50MPH........2,000 RPM
    60MPH........2,400 RPM
    70MPH........2,800 RPM
    80MPH........3,200 RPM

    You can see the trend there. Since these cars (non-vtec) have the same gearing, everyone should have similar numbers, within a couple hundred RPM. Differences will come from load on the engine (my RPMs drop by 150 or so when the A/C kicks on, and the High Beams have a slight effect, also).
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    angelbyrdangelbyrd Member Posts: 26
    My 96 Accord LX has an attitude problem it seems, I have done a full tune up had the starter replaced and still I'm having a no start problem. I believe it has something to do with my ignition switch, when I called Honda they said that they've never heard of a problem like that on my year but the part costs at least $189.00 plus labor and being that I'm on short on money and time I need some help, if anyone has expirenced this I would appreciate some input. I have posted before and gotten some great insight to the problem but I still need a little more help.
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    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    Can you describe the problem more?
    - what happens when you turn the key (sounds, instrument lights, etc.)? - can you get your radio to work when the car doesn't start?
    - did the no-start problem happen all of a sudden, or would the car start some times, with increasing frequency of no starts?
    - have you tried starting in neutral?
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    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    Wait, I just read your other post, and you said you think you need ignition lock--but then you say still in your other post that you had to "crank 5 times" so your starter is cranking--which would say your your ignition lock is fine.

    Don't keep posting new messages--link your post to your earlier ones by replying to them. "My car doesn't start" could mean a dozen different things, so describe your problem thoroughly. Did the problem start after you had your tune up, or did you take the car in (after successfully starting it) after the problems started?
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    angelbyrdangelbyrd Member Posts: 26
    Sorry, I'm new to this and with so many posts it's hard to find my last one. Well I have only had the car for three months and it worked fine for the first week, I was preparing for a road trip when at the time it seemed my starter had went bad and I had that replaced went on my trip approx. 700 miles round trip and everything was fine even got great mileage, then about a week after returning to normal driving the car just wouldn't start, I had the starter replaced again of course free of charge, the problem presisted, since that didn't work I got the tune-up being that the car was new to me w/ 103,000 miles I had planned to do the tune-up anyway but was also hoping I was killing two birds with one stone and everything was fine for a week then I started having the same problem and my check engine light came on. I then took advantage of the "Free Honda Emissions Update" I saw posted here and the car was fine for a week, then the same thing. Its a very intermittent thing, usually it starts on the second or third crank, sometimes I have to wait 10 min. then try again and it will start, I read that it could be the key so I tried my spar and still the same thing, I reduced the amount of things i carry on my key chain down to just the key and still the same thing, something new did start happening after I used the spar, the alarm bell dings as if the key is in the ignition and the door is open even when I am holding the key in my hand, I had a suedo mechanic look at it and he suggested something within the actual part where the key enters may not be making contact all the time. As I said in my last new post I am limited on time and money right now so I need to narrow down what it could be so that I can attack that issue and have a car I can depend on instead of pray for every time I need to go somewhere. I'm not looking for the exact answer seeing as how this is over the internet just some insight so I can stop calling for quotes on having my ignition switch replaced and sounding like a damn fool.
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    hondatincanhondatincan Member Posts: 1
    just don't buy michelin. they are horrible! harsh, bumpy ride. :mad:
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    The beginning of your post says you had starter problems, you changed the starter, it lasted a while, and it acted up again. They installed a new starter NC since the first one failed.

    So far, I can understand and rationalize what's been done. You lost me when you had a tune-up done since the problem persisted.

    The function of a starter is simply to rotate the mechanics of the engine. If the engine "turns over" or "cranks" then the starter is working.

    Doing a tune-up effects how the engine runs. You could literally remove all tune-up parts off your car (spark plugs, distributer cap, plug wires, etc), and the engine will still crank, it just won't run. The starter and tune-up parts do totally different functions.

    As far as your last occurance with the key out of the ignition but the alarm still dings, I would try something as simple as a lock lubricant. It may loosen up whatever is sticking. If it doesn't work, not much lost. Lubricant made for locks is the best to use, (contains graphite) but WD-40 will also work, just not as good since it will leave an oily film, where lock lubricant leaves behind a graphite coating.

    Good luck
    Mrbill
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Guess it depends on the tire-model. I loved my michelins. They handled MUCH better than my goodyears do now, giving me better traction in turns and in the wet, as well as a treadwear rating 280 points higher than my cheaper Goodyears. My best tires ever were "Cooper" tires for my 1996 Accord.
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    angelbyrdangelbyrd Member Posts: 26
    Thank you for your insight. As far as getting the tune-up done I was planning on getting it anyway even before the car started having issues b/c it was time for one to be done, I was just hoping being pretty much a novice to car mechanics that maybe I was having some kind of issue a tune up would solve. I did forget to mention that when I got the tune-up the mechanic told me that I needed a new oil gasket b/c oil was getting into my spark plugs, but when Honda did the same work on my car a week later they didn't mention anything about it and neither did the third shop I had look at it to try and figure out what the issue is, of course they said they could see no reason why the car would be doing that at least engine wise and it's not something that can be detected unless its doing it at the moment. I will get some lock lubricant today and see where that gets me at least it won't be another $200 try.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    the lock lubricant is a good idea... but, if one key (spare) results in the problem where the door chime keeps going off with the key removed but the primary key does not, that ignition switch may need replacement.

    a question for mrbill: if the ignition switch is faulty, might that result in all of the following observations:
    a). sometimes the starter doesn't engage and crank the engine.
    b). the engine is cranked by the starter, but doesn't get fuel and/or ignition and so doesn't run.
    c). the vehicle cranks, gets fuel, spark, starts but dies sometime after that (maybe right away, maybe sometimes during the drive).
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Yea, the electrical contacts in the switch could be gummed up, or worn out, causing all the starting problems. If that's true, then yes, the switch may need replacing.

    I'm thinking that using the second key (maybe a key that wasn't used much and is less worn) is pushing something in the lock a fea hair farther then the old key. Doing that could be causing things to jam inside the switch since the parts haven't traveled that far in the past. Adding the lubricant will help flush out whatever is causing things to stick inside the switch. If you ever looked at a key that had alot of use, and compaired it to a spare key that's been sitting in a drawer since new, you'll see what I'm talking about.

    This probably will only fix the problem with the key chime staying on when the key is removed, but not with the staring problem. Don't know what will happen until it's tried. Lock lube is cheap, so if their lucky...

    I would also spray all the locks while at it. I repinned a few car locks years ago, and it's amazing how much crud builds up inside.

    Mrbill
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    sage96sage96 Member Posts: 3
    The temp control knob on my 96 Accord LX quit working this morning. Normaly can feel resistance and clicking, but now just turns freely. Any suggestions on how to repair? How do you access that part of dash........through removable panel under steering wheel? Thanks for any comments or suggestions!
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Just pop the knob off (Pull straight out from the dash). I'm on my 4th knob now. The plastic connector has broken off onto the metal "stob" that turns the mechanism. If you take the plastic knob (the one you see) off (you can just tug on it hard and it will slide off), you will see that the piece on the back of the black plastic knob is cracked. You will have to remove the "female" part of the knob from the stob, and replace it with a new knob. I went to the dealer, and they told me the process. I got a knob from a junkyard (wrecked 94 Accord) for my 96 LX for less than a buck.
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    sage96sage96 Member Posts: 3
    I did some more checking after I posted my message, and discovered, just as you say, that the knob was cracked. I glued it with super glue for now, and will see how long it lasts.
    THANKS!
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I did that, and it worked until the dead of summer, when the interior got over 110 degrees and the glue softened :(. Meanwhile, check out a junkyard, or call around and find one.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i might consider an "electric" contact cleaner. the stuff that comes in a spray can and evaporates very quickly. if already gunked, i think graphite is only going to add more gunk.

    still worth a try.
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    lpaeslpaes Member Posts: 17
    Hello :

    Am hopefully posting in the right board - I have a 1993 accord ex that spilt a lot of oil today and was smoking as well.

    Any idea what the problem could be ? Am hoping the fix will not be over the value of the car :(
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    carlglover1carlglover1 Member Posts: 5
    My 1991 Accord had a similar cranking problem. It became very hard to start, especially on hot days. The problem persisted even after a complete tune-up and replacement of distributor (total of $282.42). Finally, the tech discovered a crack in the circuit board of the main relay, which was replaced at an additional cost of $141.91. This solved the problem. That was nine months ago and it's still cranking beautifully, no matter what the temperature (heat expanded the crack, making cranking more difficult). Hope this helps.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    You are close, but this is the 1994-1997 forum. Some people here may be able to help you, but you'd likely find more help in the 1990-1993 forum. Good luck :)
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    mikeshondamikeshonda Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Honda Accord. The overhead light, trunk light and key light won't come on. I've checked the fuses and they seem to be fine. I've had no work done the past two years that may have caused this problem. The lights at the bottom of the door come on and I've switched bulbs between the trunk and the door lights and the bulbs are fine. Any idea what could be causing this? Is there a fuse I'm not familiar with? I've checked the box under the dash and under the hood. I checked the fuses that seem to match.

    Stumped in Kalamazoo :confuse:
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    butterflyjonesbutterflyjones Member Posts: 72
    It sounds like you may have a problem with the torque converter that is if this is an auto tranny. My 92 accord lx rpm's are at 2600 at 60mph and at 70 3000rpm's. The torque converter is controlled by temperature and a bad thermostat could also contribute to your problem. MY ACCORD HAS OVER 200k miles and it now run slightly higher rpm's than it use to. I've had several thermostats over the years and I know that its due for one when it takes a long time for the T-C to engage, esp. in cold weather. Hope you get it fixed and running smooth again soon. :):D :shades:
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    ricstrickricstrick Member Posts: 5
    My 96 Accord has 162,000 miles. The check engine light came on and I took it to my local indy repair shop. They said it was a "code P0420", causing some emission reading to be "below threshold" and that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced. They want $1,300 ($700 just for the cost of the cat conv) to fix it. Is there a less expensive solution? I found 96 Honda catalytic converters on the web for $135. Should I buy one of those and have it installed? Will that make the check engine light go out and more importantly will it pass the North Carolina which I was supposed to have done at the end of March? They also told me I had an oil leak behind the timing belt that would cost $620 to fix. Should I get a second opinion or shudder take it to the dealer? I appreciate any suggestions.
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    angelbyrdangelbyrd Member Posts: 26
    I have something to add. I went to see my pseudo mechanic and the car did it (not start). SO he tapped the starter and we cranked it nothing, tested the starter and it was fine but still nothing, so he manually shifted the gears and still nothing, well after about 10 min. of shifting gears, tapping the starter, switching keys,and cranking there was still nothing but now the door when open would ding as if the key was in the ignition and now the CEL was on. Just as I was about to give up I cranked her one more time and she started right up, turned her off then right back on again. After that happened I couldn't risk driving all the way to where I work with a car that starts when it wants to so I switched cars with a friend for a week, never once did she have the problem. Her trick turn the key slower like follow the way it wants to turn, at first I looked at her like she was nuts but I have been following the flow and everything has been ok so what could that mean, I need help now. :confuse: :cry:
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    97repairs97repairs Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Accord LX with 138,000k with the exact same issue. Sorry to say no resolution either. I've had the axles&boots replaced more than once and they think it is the same thing from the noise I describe but they don't see any evidence of a bad axle this time. However, the shop for some reason cannot actually hear/identify the noise that I do whenever I turn the wheel from the 12 o'clock position. It does sound like it's from the steering. It began when turning only to the right but now it is to the left or right and is getting louder. If you figure out what the problem is please let me know. I want to tell the mechanic what to fix and how! This has been going on for a year now...
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    duff007duff007 Member Posts: 2
    Neeper,
    the lock actuator seems very hard to reach with conventional tools. can you outline how you replaced yours?
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