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Comments
get a new radio and speakers if you can afford it!
If they are reluctant, call Honda.
And WRITE IT DOWN, KEEP IN A SAFE PLACE, 'cause next time when you replace your battery, it would cause the radio to lose its code again.
Any suggestions would be great
Thanks!
see if your vehicle has an EGR valve.
catalytic convertor efficiency dropping.
MAF sensor becomming inoperative.
02 sensor bad, vehicle is running excessively lean or rich.
could be a lot of stuff really.
I drove my Mom's car to Orlando. On the way home today, the Check engine light came on. I pulled into the Turnpike gas station and no one was available to help me. I took out the manual and it said emissions problems or engine problems. Gee... ya think? Anyways, I drove about 150 miles home to Miami and it never went off. The car has 76,000 miles on it. It drove great. Oh, this also happened....The speedometer stopped working. It would occassionally go to 60 and back to 0. The light around the D4 kept flashing on and off. All the other instruments were working properly. There was no loss of power. I made it home but it is still on.
Someone wrote about 98-081 service bulletin. What is that? I accept all input for the all knowing....
Thanks,
Joan :sick:
But this is a GOOD club, for a change.
You are COVERED BY A SPECIFIC EXTENDED WARRANTY issued by Honda (as a result of a class action law suite filed against Honda in California).
You probably have a faulty speed-sensor (and probably a bad Distributor too), but if your D4 light is flashing, it might be something else too, which may be covered (the list mentions some parts in the transmission too).
Go to your nearest Honda dealer, and let him take care of it. Of course, mention the 98-081 bulletin, and ASK HIM TO GIVE YOU A PRINT OUT OF THE BULLETIN, since there is a LOT of info about a LOT of parts that are covered.
Or, you can do a Google search for "Honda 98-081" and find the PDF file (the mods of this board would not allow us to post web site addresses here).
You are also entitled to a FREE TUNE UP now (at 75,000) and this specific warranty covers your car up to 150,000 miles, or 15 (or 14, don't remember) years....
See, life can be so good, sometimes.
Be happy.
i have been told that a sufficiently clogged CAT can result in very poor power.
explain the hesitation you experience again.
About two months ago the dealer replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and air filter. That tune-up didn't change anything.
I also wanted to mention that the car will sometimes idle extremely rough at 800 RPMs. It makes a sound thats hard to explain but it echos in the cabin of the car.
My gas mileage has also gone from about 31 MPG to 26MPG.
I'm thinking sticking EGR Valve or ports, perhaps even a bad O2 (Oxygen) sensor.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/generalinfo/l/bldef165.htm
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Car will initially run rough for a few seconds when it has warmed up and you are on the gas at low speeds, but just stay on the gas and the CEL will flash and you should be running A-ok. Assuming the EGR valve is your problem of course.
good luck
A. The "famous" 98-081 recall mentioned here is ONLY for V6 Accords of your generation.
B. If you're refering to that recall, one typical problem is the tachometer needle JUMPING up an down (and then staying at 0). I don't think driving 60-65 at 2,800 rpm is abnormal, especailly when you use the cruise control.... Try driving without it, change speed, push the gas down, see how your rpm changes, together with the sound coming from the engine....
C. The temp gauge in my '95 Accord (up till February) has always been very low, at around 1/4, and never reached 1/2. Our new Accord has never reaced 1/2 either (so is my new Sonata).... So maybe there is no much reason for worry.
If your car's engine sounds right, the car drives smooth, it does not consume oil, and doesn't lose coolant, I don't see any problem.
Please check about your TRANSMISSION FLUID. Check the color and smell. At this "age" you MUST change the fluid, not just drain it, but power-flush it (your mechanic should have this special equipment), and put in ORIGINAL HONDA fluid. If your car had never had this fluid changed, you should be noticing smoother gear shifting after new fluid is put in.
And drive carefully, please. Better lose a minute in your life, than your life in a minute.
Give us some feedback though once you've changed it out.
'97 Accord SE
50MPH........2,000 RPM
60MPH........2,400 RPM
70MPH........2,800 RPM
80MPH........3,200 RPM
You can see the trend there. Since these cars (non-vtec) have the same gearing, everyone should have similar numbers, within a couple hundred RPM. Differences will come from load on the engine (my RPMs drop by 150 or so when the A/C kicks on, and the High Beams have a slight effect, also).
- what happens when you turn the key (sounds, instrument lights, etc.)? - can you get your radio to work when the car doesn't start?
- did the no-start problem happen all of a sudden, or would the car start some times, with increasing frequency of no starts?
- have you tried starting in neutral?
Don't keep posting new messages--link your post to your earlier ones by replying to them. "My car doesn't start" could mean a dozen different things, so describe your problem thoroughly. Did the problem start after you had your tune up, or did you take the car in (after successfully starting it) after the problems started?
So far, I can understand and rationalize what's been done. You lost me when you had a tune-up done since the problem persisted.
The function of a starter is simply to rotate the mechanics of the engine. If the engine "turns over" or "cranks" then the starter is working.
Doing a tune-up effects how the engine runs. You could literally remove all tune-up parts off your car (spark plugs, distributer cap, plug wires, etc), and the engine will still crank, it just won't run. The starter and tune-up parts do totally different functions.
As far as your last occurance with the key out of the ignition but the alarm still dings, I would try something as simple as a lock lubricant. It may loosen up whatever is sticking. If it doesn't work, not much lost. Lubricant made for locks is the best to use, (contains graphite) but WD-40 will also work, just not as good since it will leave an oily film, where lock lubricant leaves behind a graphite coating.
Good luck
Mrbill
a question for mrbill: if the ignition switch is faulty, might that result in all of the following observations:
a). sometimes the starter doesn't engage and crank the engine.
b). the engine is cranked by the starter, but doesn't get fuel and/or ignition and so doesn't run.
c). the vehicle cranks, gets fuel, spark, starts but dies sometime after that (maybe right away, maybe sometimes during the drive).
I'm thinking that using the second key (maybe a key that wasn't used much and is less worn) is pushing something in the lock a fea hair farther then the old key. Doing that could be causing things to jam inside the switch since the parts haven't traveled that far in the past. Adding the lubricant will help flush out whatever is causing things to stick inside the switch. If you ever looked at a key that had alot of use, and compaired it to a spare key that's been sitting in a drawer since new, you'll see what I'm talking about.
This probably will only fix the problem with the key chime staying on when the key is removed, but not with the staring problem. Don't know what will happen until it's tried. Lock lube is cheap, so if their lucky...
I would also spray all the locks while at it. I repinned a few car locks years ago, and it's amazing how much crud builds up inside.
Mrbill
THANKS!
still worth a try.
Am hopefully posting in the right board - I have a 1993 accord ex that spilt a lot of oil today and was smoking as well.
Any idea what the problem could be ? Am hoping the fix will not be over the value of the car
Stumped in Kalamazoo :confuse:
the lock actuator seems very hard to reach with conventional tools. can you outline how you replaced yours?