A. Drive without your radio on for a while and check if you still have that problem. Yes, it might be too much load on your electrical system...
B. There is a KNOWN issue with this model, having the speedometer jerking while driving at a steady speed (usually it happens at highway speed, 50 and above). It's usually a problem with the Speed Sensor, that's attached to the Distributor. This is actually ONE MORE ITEM COVERED BY THE "FAMOUS" BULLETIN I'VE BEEN POSTING HERE ABOUT (see my previous postings).... I would suggest you check with your dealer! If you hav less than 150,000 on the odometer, you're eligible for a FREE replacement of both the parts mentioned above. And you're ALSO eligible for a free TUNEUP!
I went out on my lunchbreak and used the "baking soda paste" to clean the corrosion....watching that stuff fizz and dissolve was interesting....scrubbed with a toothbruch then used a battery terminal cleaner to scrap the corrosion off, lets see if that works....
oh yeah I forgot to mention that I've taken off the head unit and the car starts up better and hasn't flipped out yet...I'll keep you all posted
I noticed the battery was a bit bloated and had some dried fluids on the side so a battery might be do anyway ....I've been throwing money at this car....I love it but might have been better off with an Xb two years ago (would've been have paid off by now)
The speedometer in my 1995 Accord LX V6 starting malfunctioning recently. Randomly while driving, the needle will drop and stay around 20mph. It sometimes kicks back on, but then will drop again. No warning lights have come on and the cruise control works fine. This leads me to believe that the problem is with the speedometer itself. Does anyone know how difficult it is to remove the instrument panel and replace the speedometer? I have ordered a new speedometer that will be calibrated to my mileage. The dealership wants $400+ to do the repair. I would like to do it myself and save some money. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Let me know if your problem resolves. I seem to have a similiar problem. I have an aftermarket stereo but nothing special. Just an AIWA faceplate. The stereo resets, the speedometer resets, sometimes the cabin lights dim if they are on, but usually the ABS light goes on and there is a clicking noise from inside the dash on the passenger side. I disconnected the ABS and the problem still occured. I disconnected the stereo and the ABS and speedometer acted up. I've had the car in two different shops including the dealership and they can't figure anything out. Let me know what you find out or if anyone knows about this.
Hi all. I'm new here. I've got a problem with my Accord Ex that started 2 days ago. It's got about 99,800 miles on it. I was driving home and noticed that the speedometer jerked up suddenly and went back down. Then the D4 light started blinking. It was still blinking when I put it into park. The next day the speedometer was all over the place. I'd be driving and it'd be at 0, then it seemed like it was working but with some jerks. I also noticed that the RPM was higher than usual and I wasn't even flooring it. It's usually between 1000 - 2000 rpm. But now, at times it would reach 2500 rpm before changing gears. Any ideas on what could be the problem and how much I can expect to pay to get it fixed? Thanks!
So I replaced the battery due to corrosion, bloated sides, and leaky vents....not good
I purchased a red top optima (crazy battery- 800 cca, etc)
but as I was reading the insert, it turns out that this is not a deep cycle battery, it is a starting battery and I would not be covered by the warranty (3 years) ...I should have gotten the yellow top ($159)...
now am I right to assume that these batteries are good for my type of usage (car audio, amp, sub, capacitor, accessories)...or could I get a regular battery...(don't want to have to upgrage the alternator, it not that big of a system)
I'm not a mechanic but I'm starting to think that since the battery was dead, any voltage spike or extra drain would trigger a circuit breaker somehow?
Anyway I drove to work today with the radio blasting ac on, not craziness so far...just need to get a deep cycle battery
Any time the "D4" light is blinking, there is very likely trouble in your transmission (in fact, it states that in your owner's manual). Go to a dealer and have it checked out/diagnosed. I hate to say it, but it could be a big issue since the D4 light is blinking.
Others have had speedometer problems related to the distributor cap, so it could actually be that instead of transmission? (I'm not sure, b/c of the D4 light blinking, though)
Guys, all what you are describing here with your Accords -- speedometer jerking while driving (and if you really pay attention you may also FEEL a slight bucking, as if the car is slightly stalling) --- ARE ALL COVERED UNDER THIS 98-081 SERVICE BULLETIN!!! IT IS CAUSED BY A BAD SPEED SENSOR WHICH IS CONNECTED TO YOUR DISTRIBUTOR! BOTH need to be replaced.
If your car has less than 150,000 miles -- this is a repair that SHOULD NOT COST YOU A PENNY!!!
Please go to your Honda dealership, and tell them about the mentioned bulletin -- they KNOW all about it.
Do a Google on this 98-081 service bulletin, and get more info on it, it may also cover some problems with your transmission! I have the list in my posession (which my Honda service manager was kind enough to print out for me) and one of the items there is some kind of a sensor in the transmission.
Recently took my 95 Accord EX 4 cyl 2.2L VTEC in for a couple of normal maintenance items and they pitched me on about $1000 of work - some background first:
Bought the car 3 and a half years ago from Carmax, who stated that all belts hoses, and maintenance items had been replaced/performed. Bought the car with 67K, now 109K.
So, the shop recommended replacing the CV axels, tie rods, and AC suction line. I'll address each separately.
CV axels: I made them show them to me and I could see the the boot near the wheel was torn, though the boot up by the transaxel seemed fine. They were clearly leaking and dirty, but still moist and lubricated looking. Do I need to replace both front axels ($245 each), or should I just fix the boots (maybe $120 each)
Tie rods: seemed in good shape, dirty, but no leaks that I could see. Pretty firm as well, though with some effort, they wiggled slightly. Definitely not loose and coming apart...didn't get a price, but replace or are they fine for now?
AC suction line: this is the line just behind the radiator in case I'm not using the right name. Line is clearly leaking and the hose has an oily residue on the outside. AC is functioning fine. Replace ($100) or is it fine?
Lastly, I had the transmission flushed today. Called a dealership service dept and discovered that Honda does not flush their trannies, only drains and refills. Flush cost $160, dealership service dept only charge $70 for the drain and refill. Did I just get bilked for money or could I have causdd some damage?
Lastly, I had the transmission flushed today. Called a dealership service dept and discovered that Honda does not flush their trannies, only drains and refills. Flush cost $160, dealership service dept only charge $70 for the drain and refill. Did I just get bilked for money or could I have causdd some damage?
Did they use generic trans fluid or Honda fluid? If they used Honda fluid, you are probably fine. Otherwise, you might want to get it replaced with Honda fluid (probably at a dealer). Honda transmissions DO NOT like non-Honda fluid and will generally shift harder (than it already does) and *may* suffer damage from it.
The reason for the drain and refill instead of a flush is that the barnacles that build up in the tranny are knocked loose when force is used. A friend of mine had her accord flushed and 5-6weeks later her tranny went out and had to be rebuilt. DON'T EVER have it flushed or be prepared for getting a hefty repair-rebuild bill. :sick:
DON'T EVER have it flushed or be prepared for getting a hefty repair-rebuild bill.
---- not neccessarily. I did my Accord tranny flushed and had better shifting, and a better working tranny afterward. Most mechanics would reccommend flushing, especially when this has not been done for too long and the fluid is too old and dirty (black color instead of pink....). YES, ONLY HONDA ORIGINAL FLUID MUST BE USED.
Otherwise, the list of repairs in the original post seems valid. One more IMPORTANT thing to check is TIMING BELT, which must be replaced at around 75,000 miles. Certainly no later than 90,000 to prevent COSTLY damage to your engine....
Hi all, I have read the posts on the speed sensor for the speedometer, but my odometer is not working also. Occasionally they both start working and then stop again - at the same time. Is this the speed sensor or internal gauge woes?? TIA
>Most mechanics would reccommend flushing, especially when this has not been done for too long and the fluid is too old and dirty
It's just the opposite; most mechanics recommend no drain or draining for old fluid where deposites may have occured. Flushing is more likely to break those loose and have them end up in the wrong place causing trans problems. A drain will replace part of the fluid, gently, and then the new fluid can redissolve the deposites slowly to be caught by the filter. Then a repeat drain 5-10K later and so on.
When my speedometer died, the odometer also quit, too. It was a problem with the gauge pack, and not a bigger issue like the Speed Sensor. The speedometer would stay at zero, then it would "jump" to whatever speed you were going, then it would fall back to zero again...it was actually kind of funny at 70 MPH to see it go up and down so fast...
I'd guess gauge problems, but I'm definitely no mechanic.
I can only tell here what was MY experience. My speedometer was jerking at high speed (and then for a while rested at 0). When the needle was jumping -- I could notice a very SUBTLE BUCKING as if the car is slightly losing power and stalling for split seconds... Honda replaced the Speed Sensor and the Distributor and the car was driving fine since.
And the repair was FREE under the special extended emission warranty bulletin (98-081)described here.
So if anyone here is having the same or similar problem, it would be wise to first CHECK with Honda, 'cause it might be a FREE repair....
BTW, I start feeling a bit strange, mentioning and pushing this same 98-081 SERVICE BULLETIN again and again, as if I'm here to SELL SOMETHING, MAKE MONEY out of it... My point is so simple to comprehend: Owners of this Accord generation could probably SAVE HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS, knowing about this Service Bulletin. Period.
No bucking... But i noticed today on the highway doing 60, every 37 seconds, the car would squeal very loudly then the tac would drop to 0 and play around until it got right. Then the check engine light came on .
I've experienced the tac thing and the squealing before to but the squeal is now very intermittent. When taking off from a red light moderately (revving to 3k rpm) it would squeal. Like some strange gear between 1&2. If the squeel occours, the car would shift harshly. Doing that thing mamamia2 has been talking about soon.
btw: the squeel even happens at sustained speeds of 60mph. Has any1 heard this squeel? Its more like a screech. This is in the 1995 ex v6 model.
I need to change some apparently burned out bulbs on the front of my 95 Accord Sedan (parking on one side, turn on the other).
I have one of those big service manuals that I bought with the car. It shows the plastic cover removal as a relatively simple affair ... just remove one screw and pop the cover out. As usual though, it ain't that simple. I removed the screw but the plastic cover didn't pop out or even budge.
I tried gently prying the edges but it refused to move. I didn't want to apply too much force for fear of breaking it. I think there must be some kind of trick or technique to getting it to release once the screw is removed, but I can't for the life of me figure out what it is and the manual offers no help.
Incidentally, I discovered the burned out bulbs when I was having my oil changed at a Valvoline place. They offered to change the bulbs but gave up after fifteen minutes of not being able to get the cover off, so they couldn't figure it out either.
Any advice, tips, or insights as to the proper technique for removing this cover without breaking it will be greatly appreciated.
I feel your pain. I have a 95 Accord as well and gave up after I heard it crack slightly. My mechanic was able to change it though. Sorry that I can't give you any more advice... it had me befuddled too.
Autoboy, if your Check Engine light comes on -- don't wait. Go to your nearest Honda dealer, tell him what's goin on and mention the famous 98-081 SERVICE BULLETIN. Ask him to print out the bulletin for you to keep.
Don't try fixing anything before you do that. 'cause, AGAIN, this may be covered under that service bulletin, and if so -- your repair will be FREE.
i have a 94 honda accord ex. unfortunately my car does not qualify for the free recall repair order. i now have 150,000 miles. my problem is that i get terrible gas mileage. its been like this since i first bought the car at 110,000 miles.
all tune ups and timimg belts and water pumps has been changed. including distributor caps and rotors. i have a feeling that the problem could be related to my emmisions because after my smog check, the noX emmisions just barely pass the California's maximum.
other than my high emmision's can there be another problem like a gas leak or something? i already had a mechanic check the fuel system and they cant find anything wrong. does anybody else get poor gas mileage on their accords. i get 15-17 miles on city driving, the the weird part is that i can get atleast 30 mpg on all freeway.
hi all, I have a 1997 honda accord that makes a grinding sound while locking from the front right side door. I installed a remote starter/cnetral locking Viper solution but I dont think that is the cause of the problem.
I think it is the lock actuator. Am I right and if so how much would it cost to fix? Thanks a bunch.
The bad news is that you don't qualify for the recall. Its only for 95 accords with a v6, and all hondas from the 1996 and 1997 model year.
mamamia2, i went (finally) to my honda dealership. The good news A: They told me that the previous owner of the car took it in for the recall.
The bad news A: That person took the free oil change i was looking forward to all week .
The good news B: The inspected the car and found out that the air intake is pretty screwed and i have to pay $0 because it IS covered by the 98-081 service bulletin.
The bad news B: I have to go back in a week for them to change it because the part isn't "in".
I took it to South Motors honda and and right next door to it is south motors bmw. There was this lady in a 330Ci coupe and her car broke down right before she could make the left turn in the dealership (mind you she was in the front of the left turning lane The light turned green her car cut off). She got out the car and her face was redder than a stick can of old spice and was more vibrant than the neon orange shirt she was wearing. She was sooo :mad: that if a car would have crossed her path she would have broke it in half!! I felt bad for her because she had to cross the north bound side of US-1 during rush hour. When she went inside she 12 mechanics followed her outside and had to cross us1 again and push the car across the street and into the service department...
The moral of the story is, why would any1 spend $35k on a vehicle for it to just break down <1 yard from the dealership :confuse: ? And the thing is, it had a paper tag still! I feel bad for her and the machanic that was laughing at the story when she told him ...
hello there, i have a 97 accord 4cylinder w/manual transmission. 2 weeks ago i was driving in the hwy@120km/h and the engine just died, causing my speed to drop. i lowered the gear into 4th and i noticed the car is running again but 2mins later, engine died again (in the same hwy)i waited about 2mins and the car started ok.i noticed this problem when the weather outside is very hot. just last thursday,i pulled out of the parking lot and the engine died again on me for about 3 times.now, i replaced the main relay (as somebody had told me) but the problem is still there. can somebody tell me whats causing this??? is it the distributor or ignition coil/switch? any input is appreciated. thanks.
I have a '95 Accord with 207,000, and have had to do no major repairs. I purchased it new, and have only done regular oil changes (about every 6,000 miles) and replaced the timing belt twice. I currently need to replace the starter, but that is as bad as it's gotten.
Thanks for the info nglass. I just had an inspection done on the 94 Accord.
Here is a list of the major items found and their quoted repair costs:
Left Outer CV Boot ($150) Right Axle Assembly (shaft) ($250) Right Outer Tie Rod End Loose ($50 or $150 (can't read quote))
Brakes: Front Brake Pads 3mm Rear Brake Pads 7mm The dealer says front brakes need to be replaced pretty quick, while rear brakes may last a bit.
Other Items should be replaced: New Dome Light Bulb Wiper Blades Battery Air Filter Muffler (owner says it's under warranty and she can have it replaced for me for free)
They said the front right pull is due to the loose Front Right Tie Rod. After fixing the Tie Rod, they said an alignment would be necessary. I guess that is $100 or so.
I am trying to get quotes from different shops on repairs. The car's timing belt has not been changed. One shop quoted $500 to $600 on the Timing Belt.
But with the Timing Belt and the other problems, looks like I might need to spend at least $800.
The owner lowered her price to $3600. I think she should go lower though.
Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. To what degree are these repairs accounted for in the Edmunds price? Any suggestions on a fair price to pay considering the repairs?
I have a 97 LX 4dr I-4 with over 168,000. I perform all regular maint and the car has been trouble free (except for CV boots and electrical cooling fans). I have no problems yet , but when should I expect to change the starter? Will it work one day and down the next OR will it give me some warning signs? Just want to find out the average mileage from a starter with 60% Hwy driving and when should I think about replacing.
Your not going to be able to judge the life of a starter.
It's life is dependent on how many start cycles it goes thru, and how well the car starts when it goes thru a cycle (how much you crank per start).
If you gas up and drive till the tank is empty before shutting of the car, it's life will be alot longer then if the car was used as a delivery vehicle.
I think items like brakes, clutches, rotors/drums, and starters will have a service life range. I would agree it is dependent on driving habits and conditions. I just want to know if other owners of 94-97 Accords had to replace their starters, amount of years/mileage, and where there any gradual and/or sudden warning signs.
Have you had to change your starter on your Accord?
Hey mrgold...thought I'd share my experience, since our cars are close in age/miles. I have a 1996 LX I-4 with 162,000 miles. I've only had to things replaced, and that was the brake master cylinder (about 158,000 miles it developed a leak that caused pressure loss) for $310, and the main cooling fan for the engine (radiator fan) for $300 or so back around 135,000 miles.
I have original engine parts otherwise (knock on wood), alternator, starter, etc... My car cranks on about two or three "turns" of the starter, only rarely and in cold weather does it take longer. I've never had to give it throttle input to get it cranked.
Hope this helps your insight a little.
I love my old Accord as much as I love my new one!
My older Accord is an 88 and has 137k on it. Still haven't had the need to change the starter, actually haven't had the need to change much of anything.
Other then the usual wear out items (brakes, tires, exhaust, timing belt and tune up parts) the only thing I can think of is the water pump, and the A/C condensor (road salt ate a hole in it) which I decided not to fix.
the older style accords had a nice shape didn't they? they also were built really well.
i had a '94 5spd which i drove for 8 yrs (bought used) until i had a rare failure of the crank shaft. i think it only needed a master cylinder and motor mount, 1 cv joint and axle in the time i drove it.
Thanks for the input on the 97 Accord. I think I will have the master brake cylinder checked out during my next Honda service. I had an 88 Accord LX 5sp before the 97 Accord. Other than routine service/tires/brakes/CV boots, I put over 185,000 miles with same clutch, starter, fuel pump, and alternator. So far, the 97 is proving to be just as reliable and I hope it gives me another 2-3 more years of trouble free commuter driving.
The only minor problem I’m having is the cooling fan is starting to go out again. It went out at 120k a few years ago. I’ve notice the temp gauge starts to creep up a little past half way at long stop lights and slow moving traffic during the hottest part of the day (less air flow over the radiator situations).
Has any one tried aftermarket electrical cooling fans with any success? The Honda replacement cooling fan only lasted one fourth as long as the original cooling fan.
I used "Clean" as vehicle condition to get the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. If I use "Average", the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $2,739. At "Rough", the TMV is $2,232.
Even though the car needs work, I was thinking of offering $3000. Any advice?
Are you sure it is the fan, and not a bad fan relay? These are about $20-30 to replace. As I recall, in my '94, I diagnosed a fan which wouldn't shut off by swapping out a fan relay for a passenger door window relay (same part number / form factor).
Would the relay cause the fan(s) to turn slower? Both cooling fans are turning but I could not tell you if the speed was reduced to effect engine cooling. It took the Honda shop a few tries to narrow the problem down to the cooling fan because the fans looked like they were working properly, they just wasn't moving enough air in stop/go traffic.
FWIW: i don't know the answer to your question to be honest. i imagine the fans could be multi-speed, but wouldn't imagine they'd be more than 2 speed (well 3 if you see it as off, medium and high), so i think the relay test is still a good one to try. it should cost you nothing to do so.
i would also disconnect and re-connect the fan(s) as there may be an intermittent connection in the wiring connector between the harness and the fan assembly.
Comments
B. There is a KNOWN issue with this model, having the speedometer jerking while driving at a steady speed (usually it happens at highway speed, 50 and above). It's usually a problem with the Speed Sensor, that's attached to the Distributor. This is actually ONE MORE ITEM COVERED BY THE "FAMOUS" BULLETIN I'VE BEEN POSTING HERE ABOUT (see my previous postings).... I would suggest you check with your dealer! If you hav less than 150,000 on the odometer, you're eligible for a FREE replacement of both the parts mentioned above. And you're ALSO eligible for a free TUNEUP!
I went out on my lunchbreak and used the "baking soda paste" to clean the corrosion....watching that stuff fizz and dissolve was interesting....scrubbed with a toothbruch then used a battery terminal cleaner to scrap the corrosion off, lets see if that works....
oh yeah I forgot to mention that I've taken off the head unit and the car starts up better and hasn't flipped out yet...I'll keep you all posted
I noticed the battery was a bit bloated and had some dried fluids on the side so a battery might be do anyway ....I've been throwing money at this car....I love it but might have been better off with an Xb two years ago (would've been have paid off by now)
I already took advantage of it...they replaced the distributor cap, wires, plugs, oil change and that it....
I hope its just the battery
"they replaced the distributor cap, wires, plugs, oil change and that it... "
Did they change the oil free too, or did they provide the oil?
So I replaced the battery due to corrosion, bloated sides, and leaky vents....not good
I purchased a red top optima (crazy battery- 800 cca, etc)
but as I was reading the insert, it turns out that this is not a deep cycle battery, it is a starting battery and I would not be covered by the warranty (3 years) ...I should have gotten the yellow top ($159)...
now am I right to assume that these batteries are good for my type of usage (car audio, amp, sub, capacitor, accessories)...or could I get a regular battery...(don't want to have to upgrage the alternator, it not that big of a system)
I'm not a mechanic but I'm starting to think that since the battery was dead, any voltage spike or extra drain would trigger a circuit breaker somehow?
Anyway I drove to work today with the radio blasting ac on, not craziness so far...just need to get a deep cycle battery
Others have had speedometer problems related to the distributor cap, so it could actually be that instead of transmission? (I'm not sure, b/c of the D4 light blinking, though)
If your car has less than 150,000 miles -- this is a repair that SHOULD NOT COST YOU A PENNY!!!
Please go to your Honda dealership, and tell them about the mentioned bulletin -- they KNOW all about it.
Do a Google on this 98-081 service bulletin, and get more info on it, it may also cover some problems with your transmission! I have the list in my posession (which my Honda service manager was kind enough to print out for me) and one of the items there is some kind of a sensor in the transmission.
Bought the car 3 and a half years ago from Carmax, who stated that all belts hoses, and maintenance items had been replaced/performed. Bought the car with 67K, now 109K.
So, the shop recommended replacing the CV axels, tie rods, and AC suction line. I'll address each separately.
CV axels: I made them show them to me and I could see the the boot near the wheel was torn, though the boot up by the transaxel seemed fine. They were clearly leaking and dirty, but still moist and lubricated looking. Do I need to replace both front axels ($245 each), or should I just fix the boots (maybe $120 each)
Tie rods: seemed in good shape, dirty, but no leaks that I could see. Pretty firm as well, though with some effort, they wiggled slightly. Definitely not loose and coming apart...didn't get a price, but replace or are they fine for now?
AC suction line: this is the line just behind the radiator in case I'm not using the right name. Line is clearly leaking and the hose has an oily residue on the outside. AC is functioning fine. Replace ($100) or is it fine?
Lastly, I had the transmission flushed today. Called a dealership service dept and discovered that Honda does not flush their trannies, only drains and refills. Flush cost $160, dealership service dept only charge $70 for the drain and refill. Did I just get bilked for money or could I have causdd some damage?
Thanks for any help!
gguillory
Did they use generic trans fluid or Honda fluid? If they used Honda fluid, you are probably fine. Otherwise, you might want to get it replaced with Honda fluid (probably at a dealer). Honda transmissions DO NOT like non-Honda fluid and will generally shift harder (than it already does) and *may* suffer damage from it.
---- not neccessarily. I did my Accord tranny flushed and had better shifting, and a better working tranny afterward. Most mechanics would reccommend flushing, especially when this has not been done for too long and the fluid is too old and dirty (black color instead of pink....). YES, ONLY HONDA ORIGINAL FLUID MUST BE USED.
Otherwise, the list of repairs in the original post seems valid. One more IMPORTANT thing to check is TIMING BELT, which must be replaced at around 75,000 miles. Certainly no later than 90,000 to prevent COSTLY damage to your engine....
I have read the posts on the speed sensor for the speedometer, but my odometer is not working also. Occasionally they both start working and then stop again - at the same time. Is this the speed sensor or internal gauge woes?? TIA
It's just the opposite; most mechanics recommend no drain or draining for old fluid where deposites may have occured. Flushing is more likely to break those loose and have them end up in the wrong place causing trans problems. A drain will replace part of the fluid, gently, and then the new fluid can redissolve the deposites slowly to be caught by the filter. Then a repeat drain 5-10K later and so on.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'd guess gauge problems, but I'm definitely no mechanic.
And the repair was FREE under the special extended emission warranty bulletin (98-081)described here.
So if anyone here is having the same or similar problem, it would be wise to first CHECK with Honda, 'cause it might be a FREE repair....
BTW, I start feeling a bit strange, mentioning and pushing this same 98-081 SERVICE BULLETIN again and again, as if I'm here to SELL SOMETHING, MAKE MONEY out of it... My point is so simple to comprehend: Owners of this Accord generation could probably SAVE HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS, knowing about this Service Bulletin. Period.
The more accounts of information shared here, the better for all of us, right?
Is the Odometer cable driven?
I've experienced the tac thing and the squealing before to but the squeal is now very intermittent. When taking off from a red light moderately (revving to 3k rpm) it would squeal. Like some strange gear between 1&2. If the squeel occours, the car would shift harshly. Doing that thing mamamia2 has been talking about soon.
btw: the squeel even happens at sustained speeds of 60mph. Has any1 heard this squeel? Its more like a screech. This is in the 1995 ex v6 model.
I have one of those big service manuals that I bought with the car. It shows the plastic cover removal as a relatively simple affair ... just remove one screw and pop the cover out. As
usual though, it ain't that simple. I removed the screw but the plastic cover didn't pop out or even budge.
I tried gently prying the edges but it refused to move. I didn't want to apply too much force for fear of breaking it. I think there must be some kind of trick or technique to getting it to release once the screw is removed, but I can't for the life of me figure out what it is and the manual offers no help.
Incidentally, I discovered the burned out bulbs when I was having my oil changed at a Valvoline place. They offered to change the bulbs but gave up after fifteen minutes of not being able to get the cover off, so they couldn't figure it out either.
Any advice, tips, or insights as to the proper technique for removing this cover without breaking it will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Don't try fixing anything before you do that. 'cause, AGAIN, this may be covered under that service bulletin, and if so -- your repair will be FREE.
You have ONLY to gain, nothing to lose.
all tune ups and timimg belts and water pumps has been changed. including distributor caps and rotors. i have a feeling that the problem could be related to my emmisions because after my smog check, the noX emmisions just barely pass the California's maximum.
other than my high emmision's can there be another problem like a gas leak or something? i already had a mechanic check the fuel system and they cant find anything wrong. does anybody else get poor gas mileage on their accords. i get 15-17 miles on city driving, the the weird part is that i can get atleast 30 mpg on all freeway.
I have a 1997 honda accord that makes a grinding sound while locking from the front right side door. I installed a remote starter/cnetral locking Viper solution but I dont think that is the cause of the problem.
I think it is the lock actuator. Am I right and if so how much would it cost to fix?
Thanks a bunch.
mamamia2, i went (finally) to my honda dealership.
I took it to South Motors honda and and right next door to it is south motors bmw. There was this lady in a 330Ci coupe and her car broke down right before she could make the left turn in the dealership (mind you she was in the front of the left turning lane The light turned green her car cut off). She got out the car and her face was redder than a stick can of old spice and was more vibrant than the neon orange shirt she was wearing. She was sooo :mad: that if a car would have crossed her path she would have broke it in half!! I felt bad for her because she had to cross the north bound side of US-1 during rush hour. When she went inside she 12 mechanics followed her outside and had to cross us1 again and push the car across the street and into the service department...
The moral of the story is, why would any1 spend $35k on a vehicle for it to just break down <1 yard from the dealership :confuse: ? And the thing is, it had a paper tag still! I feel bad for her and the machanic that was laughing at the story when she told him
I am looking for a car that can last a year without any major repairs.
I was wondering if anyone has any comments on whether or not it is a good idea to buy a 94 Accord with this many miles on it?
How many miles can a 94 Accord go before it needs a major repairs?
Thanks in advance.
i have a 97 accord 4cylinder w/manual transmission. 2 weeks ago i was driving in the hwy@120km/h and the engine just died, causing my speed to drop. i lowered the gear into 4th and i noticed the car is running again but 2mins later, engine died again (in the same hwy)i waited about 2mins and the car started ok.i noticed this problem when the weather outside is very hot. just last thursday,i pulled out of the parking lot and the engine died again on me for about 3 times.now, i replaced the main relay (as somebody had told me) but the problem is still there. can somebody tell me whats causing this??? is it the distributor or ignition coil/switch? any input is appreciated. thanks.
I want the alloys like these:
And why would honda put those ugly rims like mine on the "top of the line" model :confuse: ? The ones I want look sssooooo much better :shades: !!
The thing is the size. I don't know if they would fit my accord properly so it run'd the same. Has any1 tried this?
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Here is a list of the major items found and their quoted repair costs:
Left Outer CV Boot ($150)
Right Axle Assembly (shaft) ($250)
Right Outer Tie Rod End Loose ($50 or $150 (can't read quote))
Brakes:
Front Brake Pads 3mm
Rear Brake Pads 7mm
The dealer says front brakes need to be replaced pretty quick, while rear brakes may last a bit.
Other Items should be replaced:
New Dome Light Bulb
Wiper Blades
Battery
Air Filter
Muffler (owner says it's under warranty and she can have it replaced for me for free)
They said the front right pull is due to the loose Front Right Tie Rod. After fixing the Tie Rod, they said an alignment would be necessary. I guess that is $100 or so.
I am trying to get quotes from different shops on repairs. The car's timing belt has not been changed. One shop quoted $500 to $600 on the Timing Belt.
But with the Timing Belt and the other problems, looks like I might need to spend at least $800.
The owner lowered her price to $3600. I think she should go lower though.
Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. To what degree are these repairs accounted for in the Edmunds price? Any suggestions on a fair price to pay considering the repairs?
Thx
It's life is dependent on how many start cycles it goes thru, and how well the car starts when it goes thru a cycle (how much you crank per start).
If you gas up and drive till the tank is empty before shutting of the car, it's life will be alot longer then if the car was used as a delivery vehicle.
Mrbill
Have you had to change your starter on your Accord?
Thx
I have original engine parts otherwise (knock on wood), alternator, starter, etc... My car cranks on about two or three "turns" of the starter, only rarely and in cold weather does it take longer. I've never had to give it throttle input to get it cranked.
Hope this helps your insight a little.
I love my old Accord as much as I love my new one!
Other then the usual wear out items (brakes, tires, exhaust, timing belt and tune up parts) the only thing I can think of is the water pump, and the A/C condensor (road salt ate a hole in it) which I decided not to fix.
Mrbill
the older style accords had a nice shape didn't they? they also were built really well.
i had a '94 5spd which i drove for 8 yrs (bought used) until i had a rare failure of the crank shaft. i think it only needed a master cylinder and motor mount, 1 cv joint and axle in the time i drove it.
it was a really great vehicle and fun to drive.
The only minor problem I’m having is the cooling fan is starting to go out again. It went out at 120k a few years ago. I’ve notice the temp gauge starts to creep up a little past half way at long stop lights and slow moving traffic during the hottest part of the day (less air flow over the radiator situations).
Has any one tried aftermarket electrical cooling fans with any success? The Honda replacement cooling fan only lasted one fourth as long as the original cooling fan.
Thx
I used "Clean" as vehicle condition to get the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. If I use "Average", the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $2,739. At "Rough", the TMV is $2,232.
Even though the car needs work, I was thinking of offering $3000. Any advice?
Hope it helps.
i would also disconnect and re-connect the fan(s) as there may be an intermittent connection in the wiring connector between the harness and the fan assembly.