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Comments
B. There is a KNOWN issue with this model, having the speedometer jerking while driving at a steady speed (usually it happens at highway speed, 50 and above). It's usually a problem with the Speed Sensor, that's attached to the Distributor. This is actually ONE MORE ITEM COVERED BY THE "FAMOUS" BULLETIN I'VE BEEN POSTING HERE ABOUT (see my previous postings).... I would suggest you check with your dealer! If you hav less than 150,000 on the odometer, you're eligible for a FREE replacement of both the parts mentioned above. And you're ALSO eligible for a free TUNEUP!
I went out on my lunchbreak and used the "baking soda paste" to clean the corrosion....watching that stuff fizz and dissolve was interesting....scrubbed with a toothbruch then used a battery terminal cleaner to scrap the corrosion off, lets see if that works....
oh yeah I forgot to mention that I've taken off the head unit and the car starts up better and hasn't flipped out yet...I'll keep you all posted
I noticed the battery was a bit bloated and had some dried fluids on the side so a battery might be do anyway ....I've been throwing money at this car....I love it but might have been better off with an Xb two years ago (would've been have paid off by now)
I already took advantage of it...they replaced the distributor cap, wires, plugs, oil change and that it....
I hope its just the battery
"they replaced the distributor cap, wires, plugs, oil change and that it... "
Did they change the oil free too, or did they provide the oil?
So I replaced the battery due to corrosion, bloated sides, and leaky vents....not good
I purchased a red top optima (crazy battery- 800 cca, etc)
but as I was reading the insert, it turns out that this is not a deep cycle battery, it is a starting battery and I would not be covered by the warranty (3 years) ...I should have gotten the yellow top ($159)...
now am I right to assume that these batteries are good for my type of usage (car audio, amp, sub, capacitor, accessories)...or could I get a regular battery...(don't want to have to upgrage the alternator, it not that big of a system)
I'm not a mechanic but I'm starting to think that since the battery was dead, any voltage spike or extra drain would trigger a circuit breaker somehow?
Anyway I drove to work today with the radio blasting ac on, not craziness so far...just need to get a deep cycle battery
Others have had speedometer problems related to the distributor cap, so it could actually be that instead of transmission? (I'm not sure, b/c of the D4 light blinking, though)
If your car has less than 150,000 miles -- this is a repair that SHOULD NOT COST YOU A PENNY!!!
Please go to your Honda dealership, and tell them about the mentioned bulletin -- they KNOW all about it.
Do a Google on this 98-081 service bulletin, and get more info on it, it may also cover some problems with your transmission! I have the list in my posession (which my Honda service manager was kind enough to print out for me) and one of the items there is some kind of a sensor in the transmission.
Bought the car 3 and a half years ago from Carmax, who stated that all belts hoses, and maintenance items had been replaced/performed. Bought the car with 67K, now 109K.
So, the shop recommended replacing the CV axels, tie rods, and AC suction line. I'll address each separately.
CV axels: I made them show them to me and I could see the the boot near the wheel was torn, though the boot up by the transaxel seemed fine. They were clearly leaking and dirty, but still moist and lubricated looking. Do I need to replace both front axels ($245 each), or should I just fix the boots (maybe $120 each)
Tie rods: seemed in good shape, dirty, but no leaks that I could see. Pretty firm as well, though with some effort, they wiggled slightly. Definitely not loose and coming apart...didn't get a price, but replace or are they fine for now?
AC suction line: this is the line just behind the radiator in case I'm not using the right name. Line is clearly leaking and the hose has an oily residue on the outside. AC is functioning fine. Replace ($100) or is it fine?
Lastly, I had the transmission flushed today. Called a dealership service dept and discovered that Honda does not flush their trannies, only drains and refills. Flush cost $160, dealership service dept only charge $70 for the drain and refill. Did I just get bilked for money or could I have causdd some damage?
Thanks for any help!
gguillory
Did they use generic trans fluid or Honda fluid? If they used Honda fluid, you are probably fine. Otherwise, you might want to get it replaced with Honda fluid (probably at a dealer). Honda transmissions DO NOT like non-Honda fluid and will generally shift harder (than it already does) and *may* suffer damage from it.
---- not neccessarily. I did my Accord tranny flushed and had better shifting, and a better working tranny afterward. Most mechanics would reccommend flushing, especially when this has not been done for too long and the fluid is too old and dirty (black color instead of pink....). YES, ONLY HONDA ORIGINAL FLUID MUST BE USED.
Otherwise, the list of repairs in the original post seems valid. One more IMPORTANT thing to check is TIMING BELT, which must be replaced at around 75,000 miles. Certainly no later than 90,000 to prevent COSTLY damage to your engine....
I have read the posts on the speed sensor for the speedometer, but my odometer is not working also. Occasionally they both start working and then stop again - at the same time. Is this the speed sensor or internal gauge woes?? TIA
It's just the opposite; most mechanics recommend no drain or draining for old fluid where deposites may have occured. Flushing is more likely to break those loose and have them end up in the wrong place causing trans problems. A drain will replace part of the fluid, gently, and then the new fluid can redissolve the deposites slowly to be caught by the filter. Then a repeat drain 5-10K later and so on.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'd guess gauge problems, but I'm definitely no mechanic.
And the repair was FREE under the special extended emission warranty bulletin (98-081)described here.
So if anyone here is having the same or similar problem, it would be wise to first CHECK with Honda, 'cause it might be a FREE repair....
BTW, I start feeling a bit strange, mentioning and pushing this same 98-081 SERVICE BULLETIN again and again, as if I'm here to SELL SOMETHING, MAKE MONEY out of it... My point is so simple to comprehend: Owners of this Accord generation could probably SAVE HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS, knowing about this Service Bulletin. Period.
The more accounts of information shared here, the better for all of us, right?
Is the Odometer cable driven?
I've experienced the tac thing and the squealing before to but the squeal is now very intermittent. When taking off from a red light moderately (revving to 3k rpm) it would squeal. Like some strange gear between 1&2. If the squeel occours, the car would shift harshly. Doing that thing mamamia2 has been talking about soon.
btw: the squeel even happens at sustained speeds of 60mph. Has any1 heard this squeel? Its more like a screech. This is in the 1995 ex v6 model.
I have one of those big service manuals that I bought with the car. It shows the plastic cover removal as a relatively simple affair ... just remove one screw and pop the cover out. As
usual though, it ain't that simple. I removed the screw but the plastic cover didn't pop out or even budge.
I tried gently prying the edges but it refused to move. I didn't want to apply too much force for fear of breaking it. I think there must be some kind of trick or technique to getting it to release once the screw is removed, but I can't for the life of me figure out what it is and the manual offers no help.
Incidentally, I discovered the burned out bulbs when I was having my oil changed at a Valvoline place. They offered to change the bulbs but gave up after fifteen minutes of not being able to get the cover off, so they couldn't figure it out either.
Any advice, tips, or insights as to the proper technique for removing this cover without breaking it will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Don't try fixing anything before you do that. 'cause, AGAIN, this may be covered under that service bulletin, and if so -- your repair will be FREE.
You have ONLY to gain, nothing to lose.
all tune ups and timimg belts and water pumps has been changed. including distributor caps and rotors. i have a feeling that the problem could be related to my emmisions because after my smog check, the noX emmisions just barely pass the California's maximum.
other than my high emmision's can there be another problem like a gas leak or something? i already had a mechanic check the fuel system and they cant find anything wrong. does anybody else get poor gas mileage on their accords. i get 15-17 miles on city driving, the the weird part is that i can get atleast 30 mpg on all freeway.
I have a 1997 honda accord that makes a grinding sound while locking from the front right side door. I installed a remote starter/cnetral locking Viper solution but I dont think that is the cause of the problem.
I think it is the lock actuator. Am I right and if so how much would it cost to fix?
Thanks a bunch.
mamamia2, i went (finally) to my honda dealership.
I took it to South Motors honda and and right next door to it is south motors bmw. There was this lady in a 330Ci coupe and her car broke down right before she could make the left turn in the dealership (mind you she was in the front of the left turning lane The light turned green her car cut off). She got out the car and her face was redder than a stick can of old spice and was more vibrant than the neon orange shirt she was wearing. She was sooo :mad: that if a car would have crossed her path she would have broke it in half!! I felt bad for her because she had to cross the north bound side of US-1 during rush hour. When she went inside she 12 mechanics followed her outside and had to cross us1 again and push the car across the street and into the service department...
The moral of the story is, why would any1 spend $35k on a vehicle for it to just break down <1 yard from the dealership :confuse: ? And the thing is, it had a paper tag still! I feel bad for her and the machanic that was laughing at the story when she told him
I am looking for a car that can last a year without any major repairs.
I was wondering if anyone has any comments on whether or not it is a good idea to buy a 94 Accord with this many miles on it?
How many miles can a 94 Accord go before it needs a major repairs?
Thanks in advance.
i have a 97 accord 4cylinder w/manual transmission. 2 weeks ago i was driving in the hwy@120km/h and the engine just died, causing my speed to drop. i lowered the gear into 4th and i noticed the car is running again but 2mins later, engine died again (in the same hwy)i waited about 2mins and the car started ok.i noticed this problem when the weather outside is very hot. just last thursday,i pulled out of the parking lot and the engine died again on me for about 3 times.now, i replaced the main relay (as somebody had told me) but the problem is still there. can somebody tell me whats causing this??? is it the distributor or ignition coil/switch? any input is appreciated. thanks.
I want the alloys like these:
And why would honda put those ugly rims like mine on the "top of the line" model :confuse: ? The ones I want look sssooooo much better :shades: !!
The thing is the size. I don't know if they would fit my accord properly so it run'd the same. Has any1 tried this?
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Here is a list of the major items found and their quoted repair costs:
Left Outer CV Boot ($150)
Right Axle Assembly (shaft) ($250)
Right Outer Tie Rod End Loose ($50 or $150 (can't read quote))
Brakes:
Front Brake Pads 3mm
Rear Brake Pads 7mm
The dealer says front brakes need to be replaced pretty quick, while rear brakes may last a bit.
Other Items should be replaced:
New Dome Light Bulb
Wiper Blades
Battery
Air Filter
Muffler (owner says it's under warranty and she can have it replaced for me for free)
They said the front right pull is due to the loose Front Right Tie Rod. After fixing the Tie Rod, they said an alignment would be necessary. I guess that is $100 or so.
I am trying to get quotes from different shops on repairs. The car's timing belt has not been changed. One shop quoted $500 to $600 on the Timing Belt.
But with the Timing Belt and the other problems, looks like I might need to spend at least $800.
The owner lowered her price to $3600. I think she should go lower though.
Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. To what degree are these repairs accounted for in the Edmunds price? Any suggestions on a fair price to pay considering the repairs?
Thx
It's life is dependent on how many start cycles it goes thru, and how well the car starts when it goes thru a cycle (how much you crank per start).
If you gas up and drive till the tank is empty before shutting of the car, it's life will be alot longer then if the car was used as a delivery vehicle.
Mrbill
Have you had to change your starter on your Accord?
Thx
I have original engine parts otherwise (knock on wood), alternator, starter, etc... My car cranks on about two or three "turns" of the starter, only rarely and in cold weather does it take longer. I've never had to give it throttle input to get it cranked.
Hope this helps your insight a little.
I love my old Accord as much as I love my new one!
Other then the usual wear out items (brakes, tires, exhaust, timing belt and tune up parts) the only thing I can think of is the water pump, and the A/C condensor (road salt ate a hole in it) which I decided not to fix.
Mrbill
the older style accords had a nice shape didn't they? they also were built really well.
i had a '94 5spd which i drove for 8 yrs (bought used) until i had a rare failure of the crank shaft. i think it only needed a master cylinder and motor mount, 1 cv joint and axle in the time i drove it.
it was a really great vehicle and fun to drive.
The only minor problem I’m having is the cooling fan is starting to go out again. It went out at 120k a few years ago. I’ve notice the temp gauge starts to creep up a little past half way at long stop lights and slow moving traffic during the hottest part of the day (less air flow over the radiator situations).
Has any one tried aftermarket electrical cooling fans with any success? The Honda replacement cooling fan only lasted one fourth as long as the original cooling fan.
Thx
I used "Clean" as vehicle condition to get the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. If I use "Average", the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $2,739. At "Rough", the TMV is $2,232.
Even though the car needs work, I was thinking of offering $3000. Any advice?
Hope it helps.
i would also disconnect and re-connect the fan(s) as there may be an intermittent connection in the wiring connector between the harness and the fan assembly.